Nolan Sison

· January 15, 2016

(CHAPTERS 1, 2, 3 AND 4) (For Chapter 5, type "Chapter 5: ANALYSIS, OPINIONS AND FEELINGS" at
the search box of BIP group page).

NEWBIES: READ THIS FIRST BEFORE POSTING.

THIS ARTICLE IS ORIGINAL AND ITS COPYRIGHT IS CANCELLED BY THE AUTHOR SO
ANYONE CAN USE THIS TO TEACH BONSAI (Proper credit or attribution is requested).

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs): (Written in English, because many foreigners are also reading
this page)

CHAPTER 1: GETTING STARTED

1. Q: I have zero knowledge in bonsai. How do i know if this is the right hobby for me?
A: Do not BUY anything yet. Do not fall into the trap of spending so much, and after a while, you will end up
not really wanting to go into the BONSAI CULTURE. Bonsai culture is not just a hobby , it is A WAY OF
LIFE. The first thing that you should do is to READ about Bonsai, either through the books and better, on the
internet. Join the FB groups and read on some of the their posts. Attend various exhibits, workshops, visit the
gardens of members of local bonsai groups. I'm very sure they are more than willing to show their collections,
share their knowledge, and even give you some materials and cuttings for you to start with. Once you have the
hang of it , and you really like to advance forward, then that,s the time you start to invest in your materials.
WARNING: do not be so TRIGGER-HAPPY about buying your first materials. You have to be VERY
choosy. As a matter of fact, really very very choosy. Since you are new, there are so many commercial bonsai
sellers that may take advantage of your lack of knowledge and eagerness to have your first bonsai trees. They
might present to you an ugly bonsai, passing it off as a superb, expensive, show-ready piece. (credits to doc
scalpel).

2. Q: I'm now decided to go into the hobby. How will i start?

A: there are many ways to start the hobby. a.) buy overgrown softwood or hardwood plants/trees in landscape
garden nurseries. Choose those with curved trunks and small leaves. b.) explore your backyard and try to
uproot young trees and bushes and put them in pots. c.) buy a complete bonsai, study the branches and style,
and make one yourself from a. & b. options. d.) visit a friend who is into bonsai and you will surely get free
lectures and materials. e) study posts at bonsai FB groups (like BHP) and don't expect to get all the members'
attention at once to teach you how. Be patient. Be industrious. Scroll down and read past posts, comments and
replies. You will learn a lot from there.

3. Q: What pots should I use? I am just starting this hobby.

A: Any pots with good drainage (hole at the bottom) will do. Training pots can be: plastic bag planters, ice
cream canisters, old plastic pails and basins, regular terra-cota pots for plants, plastic jars, softdrinks and
mineral water bottles (cut in half), and of course... bonsai pots.
4. Q: What soil or medium should i use and why?
A: River sand. The coarse type. Coarse sand leaves air packets. It is important to have air packets inside the pot
for robust root production, because developing roots thrive on nitrates which is formed from the air's nitrogen
and the soil's carbon and nitrites. Coarse sand has also good drainage and prevents water clogging in your pot.
water clogging causes root rots. River sand also carries nutrients and minerals essential for plant growth.

5. Q: I have a new bonsai material. Where should i cut?

A: (THESE ARE NOT ABSOLUTE RULES. THESE ARE JUST MERE SUGGESTIONS) The ideal tree
height depends on your plan if the gtree will be presented as near-view, medium view or far view. This will
also depend on whether you would like to show your tree as aged, or tall. The median formula is: "width of
trunk x 5 or 6. Example: if the width of your trunk is 2-inches, then multiply this by 5 or 6 and your ideal
height is 10-12 inches from the trunk-root junction.

Wide trunk and aged: make the trunk-to-height ratio 1:2 or 1:3... your tree will look old and its trunk is sumo
(wide).

Tall tree: make the trunk-to-height ratio 1:8-12. This way, you will have a tall, lanky tree as viewed from afar.

EXEMPTION: literati, cascade, semi cascade. (for advanced bonsai hobbyists, they don't cut. This is in
preparation for jin or deadwood in their future styling workshop).

For branches (of bonsai materials only): width of trunk x 2 or 3". This is to leave allowance for rotting, and
future branch growth. Your objective is always to have the 1-2-3 branches. 1 = left or right; 2 = back branch; 3
= left or right (if #1 is left, #3 is right and vice versa). Why # 2 is back? Because if #1 is right and #2 is left,
they will thicken over time and will create unsightly cross branch, bubble joints (reversed taper) which is a
future styling problem. The #1 branch should always be the thickest branch.

6. Q: What ideal trees should i start with as a beginner?

A: "Die-hard" trees are for beginners: These are: ficus species (balete), murraya (kamuning), serrisa,
bougainvilla (bogambilya), Ixora (santan), Streblus (kalyos), Philippine forest tea (Tsaang Gubat), Fukien tea,
Mulawin, and others. look around your area, and develop interests in those trees with small leaves.

7. Q: For newly hunted or acquired bonsai materials with very few roots, or cuttings i made from backyard
trees, how do i plant these?
A: For newly hunted materials with almost no roots, cut excess branches immediately (refer to item #4). Put
elmer's glue or any type of glue at the cut ends. This is to prevent evaporation of the tree's life-sustaining
"juice". Defoliate or remove all leaves immediately. This is to prevent any leaves from consuming the tree's
"juice". Plant it in any training pot (refer to #2) using river sand medium (refer to #3). Water the newly planted
tree thoroughly. Then place the whole pot w/ tree, inside a plastic bag. Tightly tie the mouth of the bag so the
whole plastic is an air-tight bubble. Put it in the shade. Now, you have a mini-greenhouse for that delicate tree.
The moisture inside is trapped and just goes round-and-round the plastic bag in the form of gas (water vapor if
weather is hot, daytime) and liquid (condensation during nighttime). No need to water your tree for weeks.
Check on them from time to time if molds are starting to appear. Remove the molds ASAP. This is what we
call the ICU (intensive care unit), being frequently referred in many BHP posts. NO FERTILIZERS PLEASE.
I just removed my ficus benjamina beside my pond. 10 ft tall so ang daming cuttings. I ran out of big plastic
bags so half of the cuttings are in ICU and half are in a shaded area. All those in icu survived and growing very
strong. 80% of those in the garage died. Thefore, ICU is a mini greenhouse with the right moisture circulating
inside the bag. ICU increases the chance of survival of our bonsai materials. If u pass by commercial vegetable
plantations, you will see domed clear or white plastics. Thats ICU. In the US and europe, you'll see a lot of
greenhouses, thats a blown-up ICU. Bonsai hobbyists all over the world are doing icu. Do this to increase the
chance of your bonsai materials and cuttings to survive.
8. Q: When should i remove my trees from the ICU?
A: if new shoots are more than 1-2 inches and new leaves are sprouting everywhere, remove the tree from the
plastic bag and put it in a 100% shaded area. You can include these new trees in your watering regimen. After
about a week in the shades, transfer them to a partially shaded area (30% sun). One more week and they'll go
to the half-shaded area (50% sunlight), and another week and they're ready for full sunlit area. NO
FERTILIZERS PLEASE.

9. Q: After the ICU process and the tree is now growing steadily under the full sunlight, what is next?
A: Patience. Wait for 6 months.

10. Q: I've waited for 6 months and all my trees are growing wild. What should I do?
A: Now, you are ready to cut-back, wire and style. This includes: choosing the trees' front side, the most
logical style, which branches should be retained and cut-off.
Best practice: Google image all nice bonsais. Friend-request those who are in the hobby, even foreigners
(taiwanese, chinese, japanese, indonesians,) so that you have new bonsai postings in your FB everyday. You
will then see some bonsais that are somewhat similar to your tree trunks. Now you're getting some ideas on
how to style your trees. We can teach you how to do it step-by-step but we can not teach you aesthetics. The
art is inside your mind. Your concept of beautiful and ugly is unique in you. Train your eyes in aesthetics by
viewing bonsais in the internet, books and nearby gardens.

11. Q: How do i cut-back?

A: The basic shape of trees, as in nature, is triangle. Isoceles triangle, acute triangle, distorted triangle, concave
triangle... any type of triangles as long as it is wide at the bottom and tapered on top... a triangle! After
choosing your branches (avoid branches growing from a single point from trunk. They will compete for the
tree's "juices". Cut-off all but one.) Branch #1 should be the longest. #2 shorter than #1; #3 shorter than #2 and
so on...
Our bonsai trees are grown in pots with limited medium and rooting surface area. Therefore, the growth of our
trees have their limits. If you let your branches grow uncontrolled, the tree will reach its growing limit and
branches will die back. Its like a single mother earning from a sari-sari store to feed her 2 kids. The kids are ok.
But if the kids are 10, all are malnourished bec the earnings from the store are not enough. If you wont cut, the
first branch will be left out bec the upper branches will be stronger and healthier. Eventually, the lower
branches will die back and the apex will have robust growth. Cut back and style your trees early. This way, all
the branches will get ample nutrients. For the bonsai owner, the earlier you decide on the final style, the better
so you can remove the un-needed branches and re-direct the nutrients where you need it most. If the tree has
been cut-back and growing healthy, it is only then that you can grow the FIRST branch without cutting, until it
is at its desired thickness... giving it its undue advantage. If all are not cut, the 3rd, 4th, 5th and apex will
thicken fast overtaking your 1st and 2nd. Cut-back for a healthy tree and branching ramification. Postpone
cutting to ONLY those branches that need thickening.

12. Q: After cutting-back, what is next?

A: Wiring. Now, this is a problematic area on on-line teaching because it needs visual guides and practicum.
Go to google. Type: John Naka Bonsai Techniques 1. Study the part on wiring techniques with illustration.

13. Q: Where do i buy my wires? Can i use ordinary GI wires?

A: No. You can't use ordinary GI wires. The tension and resistance of GI wires are too much for bending and
spiral wrap of branches. Branch breakage will surely occur. Use aluminum or copper wires from the nearest
bonsai store. In Metro Manila: CP Garcia U.P.; QC memorial circle, harbest Megamall, Harbest Shaw Blvd.
For provincial areas, go ask your nearest bonsai hobbyists and you will be referred to their favorite supplier.

14. Q: It rained this afternoon. Do i need to water my bonsais?

A: Always have a BBQ stick on your bonsai pot. If it rained and you're not sure if you'll still have to water
your trees or not, push the BBQ stick as far as possible in your bonsai pot. Pull it out. If the tip of the stick is
wet, you do NOT need to water your trees. If it is dry, then the rain is not enough for water to seep through the
soil of your bonsai. Water your bonsai as if it didn't rain.

15. Q: My deadwood (shari and jin) are rotting. What should i do?
A: Apply lime sulfur. In addition to lime sulfur.. wood sealant may also be considered. How? Thoroughly
clean/remove the rotten and or unwanted deadwood. Cleaning may be done by the use of brush and or power
tools for this purpose or for enhancing the Shari/jin. After the cleaning, the sealant may be used, I personally
use the Bosny Silicone Repellant. Read and follow the manufacturers instruction. This is best used before the
rainy season ( twice a year). The use of this product will give a natural wood finish. I tried using this on
alagaw/abgao, bantigue, newly cleaned bougainvillea. This product delays he progression of the decaying
process.

16. Q: Where should i get lime sulfur?

A: Same as #12. In Metro Manila: CP Garcia U.P.; QC memorial circle, harbest Megamall, Harbest Shaw
Blvd. For provincial areas, go ask your nearest bonsai hobbyists and you will be referred to their favorite
supplier.

17. Q: How do i apply lime sulfur on deadwood?

A: First, water the entire tree. Then wrap the soil surface with old newspapers down to the lip and sides of the
pot, tying the excess paper with wire, at the trunk of your tree. Why do you need to do this? It is becsuse lime
sulfur is "poison" to the roots of your bonsai. If all the soil surface are no longer exposed, then start applying
lime sulfur with a small paint brush. Start from the top and work your way down to the lowest shari and jin.
Why do you need to wet the tree first? So that the lime sulfur will be absorbed by the driftwood. Dry woods
will repel the lime sulfur because of surface tension (physics 101). If in any way lime sulfur drops into the
bonsai soil, water your bonsai thoroughly to dilute the poison.

18. Q: How will i make my bonsai grow faster? They're too slow to develop.
A: Buy more bonsais. You are so focused on your few bonsais that growing them is like taking forever. Buy
new trees to re-focus your attention and in a few months, you will be surprised how FAST they are developing.
Patience is the key. Nature has its own time. We can't accelerate that.
Remember this: We are not only nurturing nature but it is also the other way around. Nature is nurturing us.
Bonsai is gradually teaching us on the wisdom of PATIENCE. Bonsai is changing our personality. We are
beginning to accept that "change" has its own time. We are coming into the realization that our goals can be
achieved with patience and hard work...through time. That there is no instant success. That we have to invest in
time and new knowledge to achieve our goals. That after years of passion in our bonsai hobby, our friends will
notice that we are becoming a better person. We can easily let bashings and painful words pass by. We readily
smile, even from the mistakes of others, because we fully understand. Because we believe that through time...
anyone can change... for the better.

19. Q: Why don't i see mangoes, star apple, jackfruit, and other trees as bonsai?
A: Bonsai is based on perspective. We shrink the tree, therefore, the leaves should be also shrunk. But we all
know that bonsai is not exactly a shrinking process. We just shorten the trunk and branches. It is more of a
styling than shrinking. But leaves do not shrink. A small mango tree with big leaves (almost half of its body in
length) will not look like a tree but more of an ornamental plant. PERSPECTIVE IS BASED ON
SYMMETRY AND PROPORTION. A small tree = small branches = small leaves. We can't do this with
jackfruit and starapple. So at the start, we choose trees with tiny leaves so the final product of a short tree with
small leaves is a completely shrunk tree with the right proportion. Our eyes and brain instinctively size-up an
object based on other objects nearby. (This is the reason why we take pictures of our bonsai beside a coke
bottle, for the viewer to have an idea of the bonsai size). Imagine if i have a book-sized cigarette lighter and
put it beside my medium bonsai. People will then think that my bonsai is mame. But if i have a tiny toy barbie
shoes, and put it beside my mame... people will think that i have a large bonsai. Same effect with a bonsai with
big leaves.
20. Q: How do i make my bonsai leaves smaller?
A: Through defoliation. Peculiar to most tree species is that, they give new leaves at the exact point where you
cut it off. But the 2nd generation leaves are smaller than the first one. If you cut off the 2nd gen, the 3rd gen
will be smaller. Cut off the 3rd gen and comes an even smaller 4th gen...etc. Expose your tree at full sunlight.
Shaded trees naturally produce bigger leaves because of photosynthesis (plant food production from sunlight).
If your tree is in a shaded area or partial sunlight, photosynthesis is not enough. So they produce bigger leaves
for a bigger surface area for food production, compensating for the limited sunlight. Cut-off those big leaves,
expose your bonsai to full sunlight and you will see a smaller next-gen set of leaves.

21. Q: WHAT ARE THE PLANTS/MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED FOR BONSAI CULTURE?
ANSWER: Since Bonsai is the art of simulating a Tree in the nature into a small potted plant, the plants that
can be used must be, with the following characteristics; 1. must have BARK, 2.must have good branching,
preferably with short nodes. 3. must have leaves that has the ability to become smaller and smaller as it
matures. There should be proportionality of the size of the leaves with the height of the plant. Therefore,
succulents such as jade plants, dwarf bananas, and palm trees are not considered materials for bonsai culture. 4.
the plant must have the ability to grow roots that will make the plant stable, for it to be able to sustain the
rigors of training. (By doc scalpel).

CHAPTER 2:

RECOMMENDED BONSAI SIZES FOR TROPICAL TREES:

By Nolan Sison

Bonsai is about balance, aesthetics and proportion. I will focus on proportion here as it is a common mistake of
beginners to choose big-leafed trees as their small bonsai. Remember this: AS YOUR LEAVES GET
BIGGER, YOUR TREE (AS A WHOLE) GETS SMALLER IN PERCEPTION. A big-leafed mango tree
doen't look right if the bonsai size is small or medium. A mame (6-in and below) bougainvillea will look like
an ordinary ornamentsal plant, while a premna taiwan mame will look like a magnificent tall and old tree. The
size of the leaves will heavily influence the viewers' perception of tree size.

For winter presentation (defoliated), all bonsai species are applicable in any sizes.

The following is a list of tropical bonsai's common names (Philippine common names) and their recommended
sizes in summer presentation:
(MAME = 6 in. and below; SMALL = 1 ft. and below; MEDIUM = 2 ft. and below; LARGE = 3 ft or 1 meter
and below)

Alagao Dagat - Small, Medium, Large

Alagao Gubat - Medium, Large
Alagao Taiwan - Mame, Small, Medium, Large
Aratiles - medium, large
Achuete large
Aroma small, medium, large
Agoho mame, small, medium, large (with needle pinching/trimming)
Acacia medium, large
Balete (all species) medium, large
Balete (texas) small, medium, large
Bignay pugo medium, large
Bignay kalabaw large
Bogambilya medium, large
Bantolinao medium, large
Bantigue mame, small, medium, large
Bayabas medium, large
Bayabas dwarf mame, small, medium, large
Blue Bell mame, small, medium, large
Boxwood small, medium, large
China Man's Hat medium, large
Chico medium, large
Camachile small, medium, large
Duhat large
Duhat-dagat large
Fukien Tea mame, small, medium, large
Fire Tree medium, large
Gumamela large
Granaditos mame, small, medium, large
Granada medium, large
Holly (chinese, singapore) small, medium, large
Hibiscus / Linden medium, large
Juniper mame, small, medium, large
Jasmine small, medium, large
Jasmine dwarf mame, small, medium, large
Kaimito large
Kamuning tunay small, medium, large
Kamuning bilog small, medium, large
Kamuning Bangkok mame, small, medium, large
Kulasi mame, small, medium, large
Kalyos mame, small, medium, large
Kalamansi medium, large
Kamagong medium, large
Lantana medium, large
Lagundi medium, large
Lemonsito mame, small, medium, large
Mangga large
Mulberry medium, large
Mulawin (all species) mame, small, medium, large
Malabayabas mame, small, medium, large
Masang mame, small, medium, large
Macopa medium, large
Molave large
Narra large
Pyracantha medium, large
Pyracantha dwarf mame, small, medium, large
Pine (Benguet) small, medium, large (with needle trimming)
Pandakaki small, medium, large
Podocarpus medium, large
Podocarpus dwarf mame, small, medium, large
Sampaloc medium, large
Sampaguitang Gubat medium, large
Sampaguita medium, large
Siniguelas medium, large
Tsaang Gubat mame, small, medium, large
Tugas mame, small, medium, large
Wisteria medium, large

Chapter 3: DEVELOPING YOUR MATERIAL INTO A MINIATURE TREE OR BONSAI

Q1: Now that my collected bonsai materials and commercial garden hardwoods and softwoods are growing
wild, what should i do next.?
A: (The following sequence of branch selection is from the bottom of the tree...going upwards) Now its time to
choose your 1st branch. 1.) Thickest lowest branch. Position it either at right or left side of the tree. If that is
done, now u have a front. 2.) Choose 2nd branch either at the back or at opposite side of 1st branch but higher
in position. 3.) Choose the 3rd branch... the remaining side without branch...except the front side. (Repeat the
whole process for upper branches if its formal upright style till you reach the apex.) 4.) Choose the front
branch at a higher position than the 3rd branch. 5.) Now, your leader (trunk continuation) is the topmost
thickest branch. This is only applicable for materials with cut trunk. And your apex is the 1st branch of the
leader. (variation of which is the leader's 1st branch is the front branch, and the 2nd branch is the apex...for
development or for clustering). 6.) All other branches emanating from the trunk... cut it off. When done, wire
all branches bended at X and Y axis... going at the general direction of the horizontal. All other retained
branches should be similar in bended direction. Now, cut back all primary branches taking the general shape of
a triangle. Long at 1st branch, a little shorter at 2nd branch... and so on till shortest at apex twigs. Now, you
have a shaped bonsai. If you already have secondary branches, retain the 1-2-3 branching or left-right-left or
vice versa in every primary branches. Repeat this for tertiary and 4th, 5th generation branches. If this is done,
wait for branch thickening and ramifications (succeeding generations of branches and twigs) until you have a
well-balanced, proportional, show-ready bonsai. Good luck.

Q2: What if the desired branches are not in their ideal position or placement? What if the trunk did not give me
those 1st, 2nd and 3rd branch ideal placements? What should i do?
A: Then, do the freestyle technique. First, retain a single branch from all twins and triplet branches. Choose the
thickest branch. Then, choose the front. The front should reveal the best features of the trunk and has nebari or
showing thick root appendages from the trunk. After choosing the front, wire all remaining branches and
follow bending procedures, ramifications and cut-backs as discussed in Q1.

Q3: What are the considerations in choosing the front side of my bonsai?
A: For single trunked upright trees, choose the front where it shows:
a. the most evident taper or A-shaped lines of the trunk;
b. the first branch is at left or right side of the tree;
c. the most number of nebari or root appendages;
d. no eye-poker or branch or jin pointing at the viewer;
e. the most number of features - shari (deadwood on trunk), jins (deadwood branches), dragon-scaled barks,
trunk curves and twists, etc.
f. no wounds and scars or hiding the bad features (placement of unsightly imperfections at the back of the tree).

Q4: I have chosen my front, i have wired my branches, i have cut all unneeded branches. What's next?
A: Now is the time for branch thickening and regular pruning. All trees have apical dominance or the topmost
branches have more robust growth than lower branches. To prevent the 1st and 2nd branches from being left
out of the thickening period, regularly trim the apex and upper branches except the 1st and 2nd branches. The
overgrowth will make the lower branches thicken faster than the upper ones. If the 2nd branch is growing
faster than the 1st... trim or cut-back the 2nd branch retaining only the 1st branch as the wild branch.

Q5: Are there techniques on how to make the branch thickening process faster?
A: There are many ways on shortening the time period of thickening and ramifications of branches:
a. plant your bonsai direct to the soil. Your medium will become unlimited and soil has better moisture
retention than in pots.
b. apply complete fertilizers. I must warn you though that over application of fertilizers will kill your bonsai.
To be safe, i recommend that you use only the SLOW RELEASE complete fertilizers.
c. do the sacrifice branch technique. An unwanted secondary branch, if wired upright, will grow taller than the
apex of your bonsai. This will suck-in the nutrients which will thicken the primary at a faster rate. If the
desired thickness is achieved, cut off the sacrifice branch. NOTE: Choose the sacrifice branch growing from
the back side of the primary. This way, if you cut it off, the wound or scar won't be visible to the viewer.
d. Do the double and triple tray technique. You will notice that there are roots sticking out of the drain hole of
your potted bonsai. Get a new pot, fill it with riversand and soak it with water. Then, put your potted bonsai on
top of the potted riversand. The roots sticking out of the drain hole will "taste" the new medium under it and
will grow more roots at the second tier. If you see more roots at the base of the 2nd potted medium, its time to
make a third one...putting it under the 2nd pot. This way, we are expanding the nutrition-gathering room of
your bonsai for a more robust growth. If your bonsai is show ready, just lift its pot, cut the connecting roots to
the 2nd tray/pot under it, and you will have a healthy-looking bonsai tree.
e. Apply rooting hormone. There are several brands available in the market such as Anaa and Hormex. These
hormone,s if diluted in water and used in watering your trees, will encourage faster growth and development
for your bonsais.

Q6: I noticed that some of my bonsais' leaves are turning yellow. Should i get alarmed?
A: Yes and no. You should get alarmed if the yellowing leaves are at the tips of the branches and twigs. This is
a signal that your roots are in distress and dying for several reasons:
a. Clogged drain holes. Water that can't flow through the drain holes is soaking and rotting the roots. Re-pot
asap.
b. Drying roots. Your pot's drain hole is so big that everytime you water your bonsai, riversand and soil flow
out with the water, creating a big air pocket t the bottom of your medium which is not visible to you. Your fine
roots (soil nutrient absorbers) are drying and dying. Re-pot asap, using a fine meshed screen to cover your pot's
big drainhole.
c. Fungal infection. The damp condition of your soil is ideal for fungal growth. Fungi grow inside your pot and
it is eating your roots slowly for its nourishment. Re-pot asap with new riversand. Throw away your old
riversand.
d. Over fertilizer. Too much fertilizer or nitrogen overwhelms the roots and gets "burned". Re-pot asap with
new riversand and throw away your toxic old medium.
e. Lack of moisture. You did not water your bonsai properly. It might be wet at the surface but water is not
enough to seep in to the lower roots which are your fine, absorbent roots. Submerge your bonsai in a basin of
water for 24 hrs and after that, device a routine of watering your bonsai thoroughly... until you see the water
coming out of the pot's drainhole. Always have a barbeque stick nearby for your routinary soil moisture test.
After watering your bonsai, push the BBQ stick on the pot's soil as deep as you can. Pull out the stick and hold
its bottom tip. If its wet, you did well. If its dry, you did a lousy watering job. Water your bonsais again.
f. Acidic soil. Because of the various types of fertilizers we apply (even if sparingly), and the quality of our
water source (chlorinated), your soil's Ph level rises gradually over time, becoming acidic. Re-pot asap using
new riversand, and throw away your acidic medium. Or... submerge your potted bonsai in a basin of water for
24 hrs, changing the basin's water every 4 hrs to dilute the acidity.
g. Root-bound bonsai. Your tree has grown in that small pot for many years and you might have not noticed
that the pot is now 90% roots and 10% soil. Soak your pot with water, hold the trunk and pull it up. If the tree
came out of the pot as a whole, with its roots shaped live the pot, then your bonsai is root-bound. Soak the
roots in a basin of water, shaking it off to loosen all the trapped soil. Run your fingers through the roots like a
comb, to separate all intertwined appendages. cut-off all thick roots and retain the finer ones. (thick roots are
for anchoring while fine roots are for absorbing nutrients). Put in new medium (riversand or soil or
combination of both) and re-pot your bonsai.
If the yellowing of leaves are appearing at the base of branches:
a. Lack of nutrients. Making your bonsai wild has reached its maximum and the tree can no longer sustain the
nutritional requirements of many long branches. Cut-back, defoliate, cut-off all unneeded branches, except the
branch needing more thickening, and your bonsai will resume its robust growth.
b. Nothing to worry about. This is normal for some tree species, specially during the months of oct, nov, and
dec. (autumn and winter). They shed off old leaves, become dormant, and grow new leaves in spring (march).

Q7: While waiting for my bonsais to thicken its branches, what should i do?
A: The branch thickening process will take years. You might get bored when you wait for the 2nd wiring, 3rd
wiring and styling. Go ahead and acquire more bonsai materials. Or better, go and get semi-finished materials
so you will get busy on re-styling, re-wiring and re-potting.
Q8: How do i choose the right pots for my bonsais.
A: Now, this is a very tricky topic as pot choices are sometimes very subjective on the owners' point of view.
So the following discussion on the right pot choices are just mere SUGGESTIONS or GUIDELINES for you
to make a more intelligent choice.
First, you have to determine if your bonsai is MALE or FEMALE. How is that? Male bonsais have muscles
(undulating trunk texture), abrupt twists of branches, wide trunk, and a general impression of masculinity. On
the other hand, female bonsais are slender, graceful sway of body and branches, smooth bark surface, and a
general impression of femeninity.
After determining the "sex" of your bonsai, the guideline is: Male bonsai pots have corners: square, rectagle,
octagon and the variations of such. On the other hand, female bonsai pots should have no corners. Round and
oval pots are ideal for female trees.
Pot depth: The width of your trunk should be the depth of your pot. If the width of your tree trunk is 3-in., then
your pot depth should also be 3-in.
Pot width: The width of the pot should be 2/3 of the width of the tree. Measure the tree width from the leftmost
branch tip to the rightmost branch tip. Get 2/3 of that and that is your ideal pot width.
Pot color: Your pot is a representation of the place where the tree is growing. Trees from the mountains and
plains should have earth-colored pots. Earth colors are: Brown, black, dark red, orange, dark gray. But, there
are trees that grow on watery environment or those that can be found in marshlands, beaches and riverbanks.
These trees should be potted in water-colored pots. The color of water are white, cream, light blue, light gray,
light brown.
Glazed: Bonsais with flowers and/or fruits should have glossy or glazed pots.
Pots with other primary colors: red, green, blue, yellow pots are used as contrast to the real colors of the tree. A
bonsai with red leaves (Ficus coccina, maturing leaves turn brown) might create confusion if a reddish or
brown pot is used. So ideal pot colors for red-leafed bonsais are green, blue or yellow.
REMEMBER: YOUR POT SHOULD NEVER ATTRACT ATTENTION AWAY FROM THE TREE. The
simpler the design of your pot, the better. You are showing the tree, not the pot.
EXCEPTIONS: cascades, literati, forest and land/seascape penjings should not follow these guidelines.

Q9: I see some displays in bonsai shows that some bonsais have a tiny pot beside it with grass plantings. Why
is that?
A: This is one of the Japanese traditions showing what grows under or beside the tree. The tiny pot is a
representation of what other plants are growing around the tree.

Q10: What is the wisdom of buying bonsai materials as against buying semi-finished bonsai and show-ready
bonsai?
A: When we buy bonsais, we are not buying the small tree per se. What we are really buying is the TIME. We
pay premiums for finished and semi-finished bonsais because we don't have to spend years of caring and
styling the tree before it gets developed. We pay cheap for new materials because we still have to spend time
for ICU, branch selection, wiring, branch thickening, styling, and that is 5 years minimum (except for small,
shohin and mame materials). So it is your choice. Cheap but undeveloped or expensive but fully developed
bonsai. For beginners, I encourage going to the path of the least expensive way. Start caring and nurturing
bonsai materials and learn the tricks as you go on with the hobby. Show-ready bonsais are for collectors who
don't have the time for developing their own trees but has lots of money to buy the time they can do away with.

Q11: I want to buy finished and semi-finished bonsais, but i don't know if i'm getting ripped off or not. How
much really these finished bonsais cost?
A: Standard bonsai valuation: # of days in pot x P5/day = base value. Plus premium on uniqueness and
complete, proportional branching sequence and style. Ex: if a one year old small bonsai (in engr cecilio's
bonsai pic above)... if that is one year in pot.. 365 x P5 = P1, 825 is the base value. Premium (now, this is the
subjective part) is not so much bec it has only 1 branch at left and its leader not defined.. canopy hole in the
middle has no peeping back branch, but a little more re-styling and it will be show-ready. Premium is P500
only. So real value of that bonsai is P2,325. Therefore, unstyled, unwired, wild bonsai materials have zero
premiums. The bonsai pricing fornula should not be applied to materials from commercial gardens. These
"potensais" should be priced same as other ornamental plants on display. I hope everyone will learn something
from this standardized pricing scheme specially the sellers and first time buyers.

CHAPTER 4: STYLING YOUR BONSAI

I know that it is already ingrained in your mind the different bonsai styles. But do you know how they came
about? Do you know how winds behave when blocked by the face of a cliff? And how these winds influence
the growth of trunks and branches growing on cliffs? So, let us now go back to basics, with different
perspectives though.

My descriptions on the various penjing styles will focus on why trees are shaped that way, which are caused by
several factors – soil, environment, sunlight, wind, nutrients, animal intervention, among others. It is important
for the bonsai/penjing artist to understand the forces of nature on why trees are shaped in different ways so
he/she can design the “right”-looking tree.

Upright Trunk Style: A straight, upright growth which signifies minimal environmental stress on the tree. It is
the "perfect” tree. Japanese bonsai conservatives espouse a strict branching sequence on this tree-type. Left-
back-right (or vice versa) all the way to the top with a front branch near the apex. Hence, it is a difficult style. I
do not support the idea. Go ahead and design an upright tree with non-sequencial branching pattern.

Curved Trunk Style: The same tree as above, with some environmental effects, where its life’s drama can be
seen in its trunk and branches. Some tree species (Pemphis acidula, Bougainvilla sp., Junipers) can’t really
grow straight trunks. Undulating trunk, debarked portions of its lower trunk, drift wood lower branch, sharply
twisted branches, are manifestations of challenges in the tree’s growth. A debarked lower trunk might suggest
a favorite spot for an animal’s (cow or buffalo) scratch pole, or a fungal disease that caused the partial rotting
of its bark. The sharp angle of twists of its lower branches indicates its unending quest of better sunlight (for
photosynthesis) as ever-changing growth patterns of its upper branches presents a difficult shade to overcome.
The changing seasonal wind directions also create the undulating trunk shape, specially in windy areas, such
as, rocky mountains, seashores, in-between big rocks.

Cascade Style: This is a typical growth of trees on rocky cliffs and ravines. When winds hit the wall of a cliff,
the tree swirls upwards if cliff has positive inclination (less than 90 degrees), or rotates downwards if the cliff
has negative inclination (more than 90 degrees). The swirling effect of the winds twists the trunk on its early
growth and its branches on its mature growth. The downward swirl of winds has more effect on the trees
because it aggravates the natural gravitational pull. Thus, the growth extends downward, and branching
develops outwards as there is little sunlight at the side of the wall. In penjing, any part of the living tree that
grows below the rim of the pot is cascade. Trees growing, not on cliffs, but on inclined mountain sides will
develop an arc-like growth, mainly because of constant wind action hitting the mountains. Some
trees overshadowed by bigger trees or rocks will also develop the semi-cascade shape as it seeks to find
sunlight.

Braided Trunk. These are two or more tree trunks that were fused together by forces of nature and became a
single tree. If seeds fall and in contact with the soil in a cluster, they grow as separate seedlings, very close to
each other. As their trunks thicken, they come in contact with each other. The wind action swaying the trunks
in different directions will rub and debark the portion in contact with other trees. As time passes by with the
months with very seldom winds, the debarked trunk portion in contact with other debarked tree trunks fuse
together to form a single tree. The braids are fused entanglements of trunks and may present a very interesting
trunk surface undulations. Exposed roots fused or braided together may form part of the trunk, so it may also
be classified as braided trunk style.
Broom Style: This type of growth indicates a well-fed tree. Non-stop budding in primary, secondary and
tertiary branches leads to the development of a broom-like shape.

Clump Style: A single tree developing four or more trunks. Normally, a tree grows with a single trunk. But
somewhere along the tree’s early life, budding occurs just above its primary roots, thus developing additional
trunks. This may be caused by several factors – rich soil nutrients, injured main trunk, malnutrition (nutrients
no longer flow at the upper branches so food finds its way to develop and nourish additional trunks), among
others.

Driftwood Style: Trees “die” but somehow it finds a way to live again. When the going gets rough, portions of
its trunk and some lower branches die. If a portion of the trunk dies, the remaining living portion will continue
to pass-on nutrients to the remaining branches and the tree survives. As the dead portion of the trunk and
branches dry up, they shed their brittle barks and become driftwoods (dried by the sun). This style shows
drama of struggle in the tree’s life.

Twin Trunks Style: A single tree growing two trunks. In any twin cases (as in animals and human beings), one
will prevail or is more superior than the other. Thus, as nature would have done it, the thicker trunk should
have a higher growth than the one with thinner trunk. The outer side of each trunk should have more branches
because of their greater exposure to sunlight than on the inner side.

Hollow Trunk Style: Old trees rot. But they still live. The woody central portion of the trunk’s core will rot
away and forms a hollow cylinder. Reasons for this are: termite invasion, fungal infection, water seepage
because of injured upper portion (fallen primary branch), and many other factors. Some tree species will
naturally form hollow trunks when they get old. This is very difficult to do artificially. If one will use power
tools to carve out the woody core of the trunk, it is possible but I do not recommend it. Better option is to get a
penjing material with a hollow trunk. Imagine and implement.

Raft Style: Fallen trees (by strong typhoons) have portions of their roots still underground and continue to
nourish the tree. Surviving primaries will grow as individual trees with a common root system as nutrients are
distributed through the horizontal mother trunk. New shoots will develop to become individual juveniles.
Juveniles are best at the back portion of the display to create depth perception of the display, as thin trunks
convey distance from the thick-trunked frontal trees.

Exposed Roots: Due to erosion or run-off, soil is washed away from the tree’s root system, thus exposing it as
if it is above-ground. Constant erosion or water runoff exposes larger part of the roots. It is best to position
trees with exposed roots at a slanting or tilted manner to add drama to its resistance against the forces of
nature. It is also natural for an exposed-root tree to have a lesser degree of anchorage thus, it leans on the side
with the heaviest branches.

Parent & Child Style: This is a variation of the twin trunk style but there is a degree of size (trunk thickness
and height) difference between the two. The taller and thicker tree is the parent and the smaller tree is the
child. Your artistic skill will come into play in shaping this style. Some do it as if the parent is “hugging” the
child. But it is natural that the smaller tree pulls away from the shadows of the mother’s upper foliage to get its
own sunlight.

Root On Rock Style: Seeds sometimes fall on rocks. They find their way on accumulated soil and debris in
between rocks and ridges, so they grow. If the roots find a suitable growing medium inside the clump of rocks,
then the roots remain hidden. There is no need to use pots for this style. The rock serves as the pot of the tree.
Root Over Rock Style: Trees growing on rocks sometimes run out of growing medium such as trapped soil and
rotting leaves in between rocks, so its roots crawl through the rock face in an attempt to reach the base soil. If
the “crawling” roots reach the soil where the rock it is growing from is imbedded, it thickens quickly to
efficiently deliver nutrients to the tree. Because of this, a rock-clasping presentation should have the roots
tightly clasping the rock face (no spaces in between) following the rock’s contours, down to the base soil.

Weeping Style: Because of the heavy branches, or fruits, or flowers of the tree as it extend longer than the
branch-base can carry, it droops down forming an arch. Gravity pulls down the tip of every branch as it is
farthest from the connecting base from the main branch or the main tree. Some tree species naturally grow into
weeping style. (Wisteria, weeping willows) Ordinary trees can sometimes become interesting if styled in
weeping form.

Literati Style: This is an elegant style with simple branching pattern, mostly at the tip or apex of the tree. It is
frequently depicted in Chinese and Japanese mountain paintings because it exudes “zen” and freedom. This
style is usually seen in mountain pines. Reasons for this is the harsh environment where the trees are growing.
Rocky medium produce very little nutrients for the trees so lower branches die out and get severed from the
trunk. Long, heavy lower branches break-off during typhoons and only the short upper branches survive.

Land/Water Style: Most of us are fascinated by the miniature sceneries on trays, mostly with live trees
adorning the mountains and cliffs. This is a bit complicated, as one should consider the many forces of nature
affecting the growth of trees in real life. Trees should not lean towards “shadow makers” such as
mountainsides, rocks and other taller trees. This style should be presented in marble or ceramic trays but white-
painted pots/trays will do. The white-colored tray represents water. The bottom of the tray is the water. You
may or may not include real water in the presentation. You may or may not include figurines (boats, huts,
persons) in the presentation. White sand does not represent water. Sand represents as it is – sand, in the terrain
or beaches. These are not rules but mere suggestions. Go ahead and try other colors and shapes of trays.

Landscape Style: Various terrestrial sceneries are depicted in this style. Inspirations for these landscapes are
those places that the artist went to, or seen in pictures, or visited to in their dreams. Trays or pots in this style
should be earth-colored (brown, beige, gray, black). Stylized pots can also be used. As in saeki, mosses
represent grass, weeds represent bushes. Perspective in size will be enhanced by using figurines (huts, persons,
animals). Again, these are not rules. Experiment with other pot shapes and colors.

Question: Try roaming around mountains and forests. Can you point out a tree with a specific style as stated
above? Maybe some, but not all. Therefore, bonsai styles are not an allencompassing tree growth patterns.

Now that your knowledge had been reinforced by your awareness of the dynamics of nature in shaping trees, I
hope that NATURE is in the topmost of your mind while shaping your trees and while re-potting /
repositioning them. A better understanding of nature makes one a better bonsai/penjing artist.