Quick Start Guide

1. Inserting the FC grommets

a. Get some floss to use as a tool and insert a loop through the FC hole.
b. Hook the floss around the lip of the grommet.
c. Pinch the end and insert as much as you can with your fingers through the hole.
d. Pull on the floss to get the grommet out of the other side. Be careful as the grommets can tear.
e. Using a small (not sharp) tool to push the grommet through works as well.
f. Repeat for the rest of the grommets.

2. Inserting the clean & dirty bushings

a. These are easier to do my hand, but you can use the floss method if needed.
b. Pinch the bushing and insert one side through the hole as much as you can.
c. Use fingers/floss to pull out the other side.
3. Install your components - do this before installing the side plates.
a. FC/ESC Stack - Use the included M2x10 screws and a combination of M2 nuts and washers to mount
your FC/ESC stack (middle set of 20x20 mounts). The hardware is meant to supplement the
hardware that comes with your FC to help you mount the stack as low as possible. Do NOT use
plastic screws through the main plate. Plastic screws can break in a crash.
i. Below is an example of the Hobbywing Nano Stack. I used the M2 nut and a washer for the
ESC board to sit on, and then used the plastic standoff included with the stack to mount the
FC.
ii. If you’re FC does best with NO soft mounting, first try the black grommets (they are very stiff).
iii. You can also skip the FC grommet altogether if your FC/ESC stack uses M3 screws, or if you
would like to simply hard-mount your stack.

b. HD Cam Board (Runcam) - use the included M2x5 screws to mount the board(s) in the front 20x20
mounts. The HD cam/board should include hardware to complete the installation.
c. Camera - use the included M2x8 screws, M2 washers, and 3mm M2 spacer to mount the camera to
the side plates. It would be easiest to do this in the last steps when you assemble the frame
together.
 d. Install your VTX and RX in the rear. If your vtx is a 20x20 mount, it’s recommended you use standoffs
to mount the vtx, and then double-sided tape your RX underneath. Alternatively, you can just double-
sided tape mount the VTX as well. There is no hardware included for the VTX or RX
e. Mount your motors and solder the motor leads to your ESC.
f. Complete the remaining connections for your Runcam, VTX, and RX.
g. Power it up and ensure everything is working properly before proceeding.

4. Putting the frame together

a. Test fit the battery plate and ensure a tight fit through the slot in the side plate. Note, you may need to
do some light filing to get proper fitment.
b. Use the included M3x6 screws to attach the standoffs to the side plates. Install all 5 standoffs to one
side of 1 side plate.
c. Install the side plate by dropping it in on the side of the main body, and sliding the side plate over
towards the main body. Ensure that the “tabs” of the main body go through the bushings and that the
bushings are properly mounted.
d. Install the camera to the side plate using the included M2x8 screw, M2 nut and washer, and 3mm
spacer.
e. Take the other side plate and attach it to the main body, ensuring that the “tabs” go through the
bushings properly, and that the battery plate goes through the slot.
f. Use the M2x8 screw, M2 nut and washer, and 3mm spacer to bolt on the other side of the camera.
g. Use the remaining M3x6 screws to complete the installation of the side plate.
h. Adjust your cam to your desired angle and position.
i. Install the lipo strap by inserting one end from underneath one side of the battery tab, and looping it
over the battery tray and through the tab on the other side.
j. Only use a small (¼ piece) of Ummagrip on the battery plate. You only need a very small piece to
keep the lipo from moving. But you want the lipo to contact AS MUCH of the carbon side plates as
possible for it to be the most effective at dampening vibrations.
k. Mount/fix your antennas as desired. Please note that there are 3d printed antenna mounting
solutions. Please visit www.brain3d.com if you don’t have a 3d printer. Search for “acrobrat” on
http://www.thingiverse.com if you have access to a printer.
l. Make sure everything is tightened!
m. If you fly over concrete, PROTECT THE BELLY! The bolts and side plates protrude from the
bottom and are exposed. We recommend that you 3d printed parts to protect the belly of the
frame or opt for softer landing surfaces. Multiple skids onto a hard surface could wear this out
prematurely.
n. Go out, rip, and then share with the community on https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheAcrobrats