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Access provided by University College London (UCL) (22 Apr 2016 10:03 GMT)
Comparative Critical Studies 4, 1, pp. 51–65 © BCLA 2007
On 19 September 1809, having been away from England for a few months,
during which he travelled to Portugal, Spain, and Malta, the twenty-one
year-old George Gordon Byron sailed for Greece. His tour of the famous
classical sites included a short excursion into Tepelene, Albania, where
he was ‘excellently treated by the Chief Ali Pasha’1 and where he found
the inspiration for the central section (stanzas 36–72) of the second canto
of Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage. The beginning and the end of the canto,
mirroring Byron’s own travelling schedule, focus on Greece. While the
poet’s premature death at Missolonghi secured him a place among the
champions of philhellenism, his fascination with Turkey, the ruling force
in the Balkan peninsula of the time, has brought this traditional concep-
tion of Byron as a fighter for Greek freedom into question.2 At the same
time, Byron’s ‘Eastern’ poetry has earned him a place in Edward Said’s
compilation of authors who made ‘a significant contribution to building
the Orientalist discourse’,3 a view that has also come under criticism and
one which requires further scrutiny. Harold’s adventure in Albania can be
read as ‘orientalising’ in as far as it functions to perpetuate such conven-
tional binary opposites as West and East, progress and stasis, experience
and innocence, and so forth, but the stanzas on neighbouring Greece,
which frame the experience at Ali Pasha’s court in the second canto,
muddle the simple East/West opposition. Relying on theoretical models
that emerged in response to Said’s seminal study Orientalism, such as
Maria Todorova’s concept of ‘Balkanism’ and David Cannadine’s ‘Orna-
mentalism’, this essay seeks to offer a more nuanced reading of Byron’s
encounter with the Ottoman-ruled Balkans. The Self/Other distinc-
tion, typical of travel narratives and foundational to the idea of Orien-
talism, will be re-examined and complicated in light of the contrast that
is employed in Byron’s works between Greece as the cradle of Western
civilization in decline and Albania as a novel site of discovery.
While Said’s groundbreaking work has been criticized for portraying
the West too monolithically and for defining it too exclusively in terms
51
This was, and still is, especially the case with Greece, whose ancient
history has held the claim to birthing European civilization. The Western
travellers who began flooding the country during the high time of phil-
hellenism in the nineteenth century experienced this discord at first hand
when they encountered ‘its broken arch, its ruin’d wall/its chambers
desolate, and portals foul’ (CHP II, ll. 46–47). What Todorova calls their
‘unimaginative concreteness and almost total lack of wealth’,13 gave the
Balkans an earthy quality not so easily identifiable with the more ethereal
term ‘Oriental’. Incidentally, Todorova’s description of ‘the historical
and geographic concreteness of the Balkans as opposed to the intan-
gible nature of the Orient’14 gives the Balkans a physically circumscribed
diverseness and actuality that unhinges Said’s construction of a mono-
lithic divide.
The tradition of the so-called ‘Grand Tour’, commonly undertaken
by upper-class young British men such as Byron, was interrupted by the
Napoleonic wars and the French occupation of Italy, which was previously
The ‘crescent’ here is not only used as a symbol of Islam, but is also
endowed with romantic symbolism generally associated with the moon, as
it ‘sparkles in the glen’ and shines through cypress groves. This coincides
with Harold’s disenchantment with Greece, since he ‘felt, or deem’d he
felt, no common glow’ (CHP II, l. 364) upon passing Leucadia, but in
contrast, found Albania much more exciting in its novelty: ‘The scene
was savage, but the scene was new’ (CHP II, l. 385). Byron expresses the
same sentiment in one of his letters sent home from the journey, where
his lengthy description of ‘the Albanians in their dresses’ ends with his
recognition of them as ‘a new & delightful spectacle to a stranger’ (BLJ
1:227).
The novelty is brought into contrast with Greece’s agedness in lines
that constitute the transition from one ‘creed’ to another:
Now Harold felt himself at length alone,
And bade to Christian tongues a long adieu;
Now he adventur’d on a shore unknown,
Which all admire, but many dread to view…
(CHP II, ll. 379–382)
From the dark barriers of that rugged clime,
Ev’n to the centre of Illyria’s vales,
Childe Harold pass’d o’er many a mount sublime
Through lands scarce noticed in historic tales…
(CHP II, ll. 406–409)