2018 Organic Cotton Market Report PDF

Organic Cotton
Market Report 2018

Foreword from La Rhea Pepper Call to action
Towards a more connected community
SET A TARGET
The organic cotton sector has been working diligently to Starting with the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Commit to transitioning your cotton usage
improve livelihoods and agricultural impacts for the past Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Round Table (OCRT), to organic and set quantitative, time-bound
25 years. All of us care deeply about the vibrancy of discussions are in place to plan on how to work more targets to help track progress.
the sector and its leading role in the sustainable textile closely to support a more connected community and BE CONFIDENT IN YOUR
journey yet, for the past number of years, the organic sector-wide collective impact. How can the OCRT’s
CONTENT CLAIMS
cotton sector’s growth hasn’t been reflecting this. convening, catalyzing and educating work compliment
Earlier this year, we asked - would a more connected OCA’s work investing in key issues and farm end Use a chain of custody standard to track
community support organic cotton to have a larger support to lead to a greater collective impact? your product to market.
collective impact?
We are very excited about this direction and look MAKE AN IMPACT
As a part of this deep reflection, we spoke with many of forward to your input and help in connecting the sector Work with suppliers to build transparency
you, hearing directly and indirectly some clear desires. for greater impact. Stay tuned for more information on
and ensure impact on the ground.
While we know impressive work is being done and this following the 2018 Global OCRT in Milan on 22
organic cotton production is up this year, we also know October. INVEST IN TRANSITIONAL
we are nowhere near where we need to be to have
Looking for innovative ways to do great
the level of impact we know the sector could have.
things? Invest in cotton in transition-to-
One concern we have heard loud and clear is the La Rhea Pepper
fragmentation of the sector and lack of required aligned organic, blended with your certified organic.
Managing Director,
leadership. DIVERSIFY YOUR SOURCING
Textile Exchange
We therefore looked for best practice models that Consider a diverse approach to building your
demonstrate what it takes to move from isolated organic supply base, different regions offer
impacts to a collective, connected impact. It turns out different opportunities.
there are five key conditions needed:
DO BUSINESS DIFFERENTLY
1. A Common Agenda
How do you re-engineer your sourcing
2. Shared Measurement practices? OCA, ChetCo, OrganiMark’s
“cluster” program - each help brands and
3. A Mutually Reinforcing Action Plan suppliers leverage scale they create together.
4. Continuous Communication TAKE YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE

5. A ‘Backbone’ Structure to support it Join our Global and Regional Organic Cotton
Round Tables.
Cover Page Photo: Farmer Field School, Ethiopia -

Pesticide Action Network UK
Independent review
BSD Consulting performed an independent review of Accountability Principles and considered that the After careful revision of the OCMR 2018 and its underlying
the data collection process used by Textile Exchange report has satisfied the Inclusivity and Responsiveness data collection process, we can affirm that Textile Exchange
in compiling data for the annual Organic Cotton Market principles in full. A total of eight local ambassadors was able to improve the accuracy and completeness of the
Report (OCMR). The objective of the critical review have been involved in this year´s data collection presented data and deliver a reliable picture of the current
is to provide Textile Exchange’s stakeholders with an process. With the help of this support staff and partner state of organic cotton production. Using data triangulation
independent opinion about the quality of the reported organizations, Textile Exchange was able to establish and investigation, the team put a considerable effort in
data and the adherence to the principles of international a strong network of partners allowing it to approach compiling the global data.
benchmarks such as the AA1000APS (2018) and the the data collection from different perspectives. During
GRI Standards. The full statement is available here. the production year, many producer groups have been To further benefit from this effort, we recommend that Textile
visited in loco, which allowed first-hand confirmation Exchange expand the report in future cycles with impact
BSD Consulting considers the total of 117,525 MT of numbers. Furthermore, Textile Exchange has made data that can distinguish the importance of organic certified
of organic cotton for the production year 2016/17 updates in the data collection methodology applied in production in an environment of increasing sustainability
reported in the OCMR 2018 to be an accurate and the prior report and presented a revised version in order claims of market partners and related certification schemes
reliable estimation. Textile Exchange has made a major to conduct the data collection of this report during our with less rigid benchmarks for production.
effort in obtaining more data from Certification Bodies review process.
(CBs) and, at the same time, improved the quality of
producer data, by establishing direct relations with With reference to the Impact principle, the OCMR 2018
the groups through visits or using data from existing is providing case studies to document the evolution and Beat Grüninger
partner programs to confirm the data sets derived from development of organic cotton in all covered regions Director, Group Partner, BSD
producer sources. The data collection process also and also predicts a significant increase of converted Consulting
satisfied the completeness principle to a great extent areas in the coming years. So far, anecdotal references
as it covered 32 out of 64 cotton producing countries, on how organic cotton will contribute to the Sustainable
representing nearly 95 percent (21,936,000 MT) of Development Goals suggest that cotton will have a
the total production registered by the International strong positive impact on society and environment.
Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). The data has
been compiled using three different sources: Data For the next reports, we recommend that Textile
delivered directly by producer groups, data from official Exchange gather objective data from impact studies
governmental agencies registering certified production that can corroborate this impact. Given the fact that
and data provided by certification bodies. consumers often do not make a clear distinction
between organic and less rigid sustainability
BSD has verified a sample of templates used by the certifications, such impact data can prove that organic
ambassadors for data collection and confirmed that has stronger positive footprint and is key to further
triangulation and quality checks have been used increasing organic certified cotton production.
to guarantee accuracy of the data to the extent it
was technically possible for Textile Exchange. BSD
Consulting evaluated the application of the four
What’s inside
Contents EMENA & Central Asia 38

Key findings 6 Q&A with Aydin Unsal 43
The year in numbers 6 Stakeholder directory 45
Snapshot of the wider organic sector 7

Latin America & the Caribbean 46
Global organic cotton production 8 Q&A with Orlando Rivera 50
2016/17 organic cotton production 9 Stakeholder directory 52
Q&A with Anita Chester 11

South & Southeast Asia 53
Organic Cotton Round Table 12
Q&A with Arun Ambatipudi 58
Organic cotton & the Sustainable Development Goals 13
Stakeholder directory 64
Brand commitments to organic cotton 14
Q&A with Crispin Argento 15 United States of America 65
Stakeholder directory 16 Q&A with Sally Fox 70
Organic cotton pricing 17 Stakeholder directory 72
Fiber classification 19
Standards & Certification 73
Africa20 Organic textiles certification 75
Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj 25 Central Database System 76
Methodology & Disclaimer 77
China30 2018 methodology & disclaimer 78
Q&A with Veronica Yow 34 About Textile Exchange 80
© | Page 4
Welcome to the 2018
Organic Cotton Market Report
“
We are happy to note that this year’s
Welcome back to Textile Exchange’s 13th Organic be found in India, Tanzania, and Pakistan, with China, OCMR and the processes leading up to
Cotton Market Report (OCMR). Turkey and Kyrgystan also reporting substantial areas. putting this report together have been
GRI compliant. This improvement fills a
Our 2018 report is packed with even more data and Our mantra: Growth must come with Integrity.
critical data gap in the sector and C&A
analytics, alongside the ever-popular country round-
In this report you will find many fine examples of organic Foundation is glad to have supported
ups and bite-sized, yet totally inspiring, stories from the
cotton programs across the globe. You will see they Textile Exchange on this journey. We hope
organic field.
are transparent, otherwise they would not be featured. that this trajectory continues allowing the
Globally, organic cotton production grows ten percent. These champions, among others, work hard to grow industry to make informed choices based
the sector with integrity and respect for their fellow on credible data.
We are pleased to announce a ten percent growth in partners, their communities, and the environment.
organic cotton fiber production in 2016/17, over the
year before. The biggest volumes are coming from We are proud to be independently verified.
India, China, Turkey and Kyrgyzstan. Anita Chester
After two years of intensive work with BSD Consulting, Head of Sustainable Raw
Many countries have growth in the double-digits. supported by the C&A Foundation, we have some big
Materials, C&A Foundation
news to report this year. We are extremely proud to
We witness strong growth in China, the USA, and announce that our data collection and management
Brazil this year, with Uganda, Tanzania, and Benin also systems have been independently assessed by BSD’s
achieving high growth on the African continent. auditing arm and found to be GRI compliant. This is a
While organic still occupies less than one percent rewarding moment for Textile Exchange, especially for
of global cotton production, it’s interesting to look our data and analytics team and regional ambassadors
at the organic share within each country. Tanzania who have worked so hard for this recognition.
and Tajikistan are producing between seven and ten Reserve your place at the Table.
percent of their overall cotton supply organically, while
Kyrgyzstan’s organic was calculated at an impressive Whether it’s Milan, Izmir, or Koudougou, there’s a place
66.8 percent of the country’s overall production. for all at Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Round
Table. Join us and you will receive a warm welcome!
In-conversion figures reveal serious growth is just We hope to see you soon.
around the corner.
One of the most exciting observations is the potential

for growth we are seeing through reported in-conversion Liesl Truscott
figures, which reveal that a whopping 217,721 ha (50 Director of Europe & Materials Strategy,
percent of the current land area) are in conversion to Textile Exchange
organic. The largest areas of in-conversion land can
Key findings
Organic cotton production Substantial areas of land are The year in numbers
grows ten percent globally. in transition to organic.
In 2016/17, global organic cotton 214,863 hectares of cotton-growing 117,525 472,999 214,863
production reached 117,525 MT land were in transition to organic
fiber, representing a ten percent in 2016/17, almost 50 percent of Organic Cotton Organic Certified Organic
Fiber (MT) Land (ha) In-Conversion
growth. This stems, for the most the current certified land area. This Land (ha)
part, from China, fuelled by growing indicates strong growth over the
demand both from the organic next few years as this land reaches
TOP 5 PRODUCING COUNTRIES:
dairy industry and the domestic certification. The vast majority of
textile sector. Other countries that in-transition land is in India, with the
contributed significantly to the remainder stemming predominantly
growth include Tanzania, Uganda, from Pakistan, China, Tanzania, and
Tajikistan
6,405 mt
Kyrgyzstan
8,019 mt
+10%
5.4%
6.8%
over 2015/16
Benin, Turkey, and the USA. Turkey. Turkey
7,741 mt
Organic Cotton Fiber (MT)
6.6%
China
22,521 mt
More brands are committing Promising developments
India
59,470 mt
19% +56%
to organic. from organic cotton over 2015/16
51%
initiatives span the globe. Organic Certified Land (ha)
A growing number of brands and
retailers are setting targets and From brand commitments and
signing commitments to increase government-backed initiatives to TOP 5 PRODUCING COUNTRIES BY: GROWTH IN GOTS CERTIFIED
their use of organic cotton, either industry collaborations and strategic FACILITIES:
under their own steam or as part of partnerships, there has been a IN-CONVERSION GROWTH
public, group commitments such as surge in the efforts being made (HA LAND) (% VOLUME)
the German Textile Partnership or across the globe to grow and
the Sustainable Cotton Challenge. support the organic cotton sector. In India 172,180 Senegal +427%
Such commitments are driving this report, you will find directories at Tanzania 18,409 Brazil +155%
change in supply chains as brands the end of each section showcasing
invest in finding innovative and long- just some of this great work. Pakistan 12,283 Uganda +155%
term solutions to secure supply and China 5,108 Benin +72% h8%
build greater transparency.
Turkey 2,721 Egypt +70% 5,024 Certified Facilities
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 6

Snapshot of the wider KEY ARABLE CROPS KEY PRODUCING REGIONS (LAND)
organic sector
Cereals Europe
13.5m ha
The wider organic sector continues to expand globally, with a Green fodders
15 percent rise in organic farmland and a 12.5 percent rise in
Oilseeds
the number of organic producers from 2015 to 2016.
Dry pulses
This page provides a snapshot of the wider organic sector in Latin Oceania
America
2016 (the most recent statistics available). It’s useful to have Textile crops 7.1m ha
27.3m ha
these trends in mind as we dive into the growth trends in
0m ha 1.5m ha 3.0m ha 4.5m ha
organic cotton in the remainder of this report.
FARMERS CERTIFIED LAND MARKET
The number of organic producers is increasing. 57.8m ha The global organic market is growing and consumer demand is
organic farmland (incl. in-conversion) increasing.
2.7m $91.4b US
organic farmers 178 countries global organic food market 2016
in organic farming
+12.8% +15% +12%

over 2015 over 2015 over 2015
TOP 3 COUNTRIES: FARMERS TOP 3 COUNTRIES: LAND TOP 3 COUNTRIES: MARKET
Uganda Australia US
835,000 27.1m ha $44.4b US
India Argentina Germany

210,352 3.0m ha $10.85b US
Mexico China France

210,000 2.3m ha $7.65b US
1. FiBL & IFOAM - Organics International, 2018, The World of Organic Agriculture: Statistics & Emerging Trends 2018

Global organic
cotton production
BACK TO CONTENTS
2016/17 organic cotton production
A global snapshot
220,478 472,999 117,525
2016/17 was an exciting year for the Data Revisions Organic Farmers Organic Certified Land (ha) Organic Cotton Fiber (MT)
organic cotton community. As well as
seeing promising developments from Textile Exchange relies on its data
organic cotton initiatives across the providers for data comprehensiveness,
globe, we also saw a ten percent growth accuracy and integrity. Whilst we carry
in global fiber production, which reached out a systematic completeness check
on our data processes, this is done
117,525 MT.
on best available information at time of 10% 214,863 0.5%
This growth stems for the most part from reporting. For this reason, as we gain Fiber Growth Over Organic In-Conversion Cotton Globally Is Organic
China, fuelled by growing demand both further insights and information from 2015/16 (MT) Land (ha) (ranging from <1-67%)
from the organic dairy industry and the our data sources each year, previously
domestic textile sector. Other countries reported data is corrected and revised
97%
that contributed significantly to the global to accurately reflect historical trends and 18 Countries Global Production Comes From Just
growth include Tanzania, Uganda, Benin, growth rates. The following revisions are
Producing Organic Cotton
Turkey, and the USA. made this year: 7 Countries*
Another noteworthy trend this year is the • 366mt fiber reported for Pakistan in
substantial area of cotton-growing land 2015/16 was transferred into Year 3 INDIA CHINA KYRGYZSTAN TURKEY
in transition to organic, which totalled in-conversion.
51+49+P 19+81+P 7+93+P 7+93+P

214,863 ha, suggesting strong growth
over the next few years. To put this • 4,524mt fiber reported for USA in
figure into perspective, it is equivalent to 2015/16 was adjusted to 3,599mt.
over 50 percent of the current certified • Fiber production for Greece was
51% 19% 7% 7%
land area. Over 80 percent of this updated to 1,114mt, 1,155mt,
in-conversion land is in India, with the 990mt, 686mt, 517mt, 1,320mt TAJIKISTAN USA TANZANIA
remainder stemming predominantly from and 1,403mt between 2010/11
5+95+P 4+96+P 3+97+P

Pakistan, China, Tanzania, and Turkey. and 2015/16, respectively.
In total, there were 220,478 farmers • 275mt fiber reported for Kyrgyzstan
producing organic cotton in 2016/17,
spread across 18 countries. Together,
in 2013/14 was adjusted to 335mt. 5% 4% 3%
they produced 117,525 MT organic • Fiber production for Kyrgyzstan,
cotton fiber on a total certified land area Tajikistan and Turkey reported for
of 472,999 ha. 2015/16 should be for 2016/17. As *The remaining 11 countries (and their global mark share) are: Egypt (1.5%); Greece (0.7%); Uganda (0.7%); Benin (0.6%);
retrospective data was not available, Burkina (0.4%); Peru (0.29%); Mali (0.1%); Brazil (0.04%); Senegal (0.004%); Thailand (0.004%); Argentina (0.0003%).
the data was not adjusted.
2016/17 organic cotton production
Global trends COMPARISON BETWEEN CONVENTIONAL AND ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION TRENDS
30,000,000 300,000
2004-05
25,000,000 250,000
Conventional Fiber Production (MT)
Organic Fiber Production (MT)

2005-06
20,000,000 200,000
2006-07 15,000,000 150,000
10,000,000 100,000
2007-08
5,000,000 50,000
2008-09
0 0
2004-05
2005-06
2006-07
2007-08
2008-09
2009-10
2010-11
2011-12
2012-13
2013-14
2014-15
2015-16
2016-17
2009-10 Conventional
Organic
2010-11
2011-12 REGIONAL ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION - 5 YEAR TRENDS
2012-13 100,000
Africa
90,000
2013-14 80,000 China
70,000
Fiber Production (MT)

EMENA &
2014-15 60,000 Central Asia
50,000
Latin America
2015-16 40,000 & Caribbean
30,000
South &
2016-17 20,000 Southeast Asia
10,000
United States
0
0
50,000
100,000
150,000
200,000
250,000
300,000
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17
Organic Cotton Fiber Production (MT)

Q&A with Anita Chester
Anita Chester
each of the regions that we work in are
unique in their agro-climatic and socio- Q Where do you go from
here?
economic contexts, they experience
Head of Sustainable Raw Materials, a common thread of challenges. We are deepening our work both in
C&A Foundation Lack of access to good quality non- India and globally. While continuing to
genetically modified (non-GM) cotton is increase the number of organic cotton
easily the greatest obstacle that holds farmers, we also focus on strengthening
back organic cotton. This is not just a farmer collectives. We need to drive
Where is C&A Foundation organic cotton farmers in their programs
Q problem in India; it is a challenge even a shift from philanthropic to market
in its journey of its organic have seen an income increase of over based models. Simultaneously, we
cotton program? 25 percent compared to conventional in countries where GMOs have not
been approved. This is not surprising will continue to support OCA’s work to
farmers in the same areas, thanks to bring the industry together and embed
The case for organic cotton may not be as research has mostly been biased
around 50 percent decrease in input newer business models in the sourcing
immediately evident, but its restorative in favour of GM cotton seeds, and
cost. This, when the reported yield even operations of brands. These business
and regenerative nature presents there has been limited investment and
after four years was 3 percent less than models are aimed at both improving
an incredible opportunity to radically research on indigenous cultivars.
their conventional neighbours. Further, the business case for farmers as well
transform the textile industry’s impact
a recent Life Cycle Assessment study Other challenges include i) the lack as the integrity for brands. OCA will
on both the environment and farmers’
supported by C&A Foundation reveals of support systems for farmers that also coordinate industry investments
lives. In 2014, C&A Foundation began
the substantially reduced environmental enables access to good quality into areas, such as seed research
its journey of supporting farmers to
footprint for organic cotton compared to bio-pesticides and bio-fertilisers, and breeding. While actively engaging
adopt organic cotton farming practices.
conventional. and knowledge on organic cotton with agriculture universities, research
Already the foundation, along with
nine partner organizations, has made Additionally, C&A Foundation’s work practices; (ii) weak market signals and institutes and seed companies to
it possible for approximately 54,000 with the Organic Cotton Accelerator a fragmented supply chain, which address the seed challenge, C&A
smallholder farmers across Brazil, (OCA) has been critical to move the makes market access for organic cotton Foundation is committed to contributing
China, India, Pakistan and Tanzania to entire industry, as has our continuous farmers difficult; and (iii) a weak policy towards a robust global strategy for
transition to organic cotton. Once fully engagement with governments, which environment for organic cotton. These non-GM seed. Collaboration is critical to
certified, these farmers will constitute has yielded initial positive results in terms common factors that resonate with the make organic cotton thrive.
an additional 20 percent of the existing of policy level support Indian experience, teach us that there
is a lot to be done, and organizations For more information on the C&A
global organic cotton farmers.
need to come together and pool their Foundation’s work in organic see the
What have been the
In India, where C&A Foundation started
its organic cotton work, farmers Q lessons learnt in the journey
above?
collective resources and efforts to create
synergies.
Foundation’s 2017 Annual Report
are beginning to see the economic

benefit of organic cotton. In 2017-18, Even though there is renewed interest in
foundation partners in India reported that organic cotton, challenges remain. While Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases
an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.

Organic Cotton Round Table
The Organic Cotton Round Table continues to regionalize Global OCRT Milan 2018: launch of the global assembly
Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton into focus, strengthening existing efforts In line with the OCRT’s current between regions, supply networks and
Round Table (OCRT) provides the and initiatives, and shaping customized regionalization strategy, the 2018 Global global thinking to develop the pathway
shared space needed for the organic approaches. OCRT in Milan will put the spotlight on to regional growth.
cotton community to convene, learn the great work and collaborations taking
more about issues facing the organic Textile Exchange first introduced the place in each region. OCRT Scholarship Fund
cotton sector and, most importantly, find concept of the Regional OCRT in Izmir
in 2017. In partnership with Izfas, it This will be achieved through the co- Textile Exchange has always striven to
ways to take action.
was designed to explore opportunities creation of a General Assembly for ensure that the OCRT is as inclusive
After six years of approaching barriers for organic cotton in Turkey, Egypt and Organic Cotton. Delegations from each as possible and, with the new General
to growth in organic cotton at the Central Asia, returning again in May region will come together alongside Assembly approach this year, it is more
global level, the benefits of regionalizing 2018 (more on page 42). The success brands, retailers and other stakeholders, important than ever to have voices
strategies has become increasingly in Izmir has now led to the launch of the to report on and discuss globally from each region and part of the supply
apparent. Ultimately, the same issues Regional OCRT Burkina Faso, part of a their regional updates, activities and network in the room. We have therefore
and opportunities exist for all, but new collaboration with Catholic Relief successes. The General Assembly established the OCRT Scholarship
each region is at a different stage of Services on a series of organic cotton will take the informal linkages of the Fund, contributions to which will go
development and therefore requires a focused activities in West Africa (more current OCRT to a more focused and towards providing support to farmers
different strategy, alongside designated on page 26). mindful model of engagement between and other regional representatives who
resources, investment models, and stakeholders, encouraging a two-way wouldn’t otherwise have the means to
networks of supporters. We are at an exciting stage now flow of information between regional travel to Milan to participate in the 2018
where we can learn from our collective communities. All of the ingredients OCRT. Benefits also flow back to brands
Textile Exchange has found that bringing experience in other regions, tap into that make the OCRT so valuable to and other stakeholders, who gain the
people together at the regional level what works, and fast-track innovation stakeholders will remain, such as the opportunity to meet and learn from a
from all parts of the supply network is and action! multi-stakeholder, accessible, and wider range of producers and regional
a powerful way to catalyze action by catalytic principles, with the added representatives.
bringing region-specific opportunities impact of strengthened interaction

Organic cotton & the Sustainable
Development Goals
Learn how organic cotton helps achieve the SDGs:

• Achieving SDGs Through Organic Cotton (webpage)
• Achieving SDGs Through Organic Cotton (pdf)
• Global Organic Textile Standards & the SDGs
• How Textile Exchange is supporting the SGDs
The U.N. Sustainable Development cities, regenerating and nurturing the How can the textile industry advance these targets?
Goals — also known as Global Goals earth, its resources, and its people.
or the SDGs — is an inter-governmental KPMG and Textile Exchange have just
agreement of the United Nations and The UNDP has identified three priority released a report entitled “Threading
193 countries that provides a framework SDGs as central to its strategic plan - 1: the Needle: Weaving the SDGs into the
of 17 specific, aspirational goals that End Poverty, 10: Reduced Inequalities, textile, retail and apparel industry”.
address the social, economic and and 16: Peace, Justice and Strong
environmental dimensions of sustainable Institutions. Organic cotton makes a A culmination of industry interviews,
development. significant contribution to all three – NGO input, and desk research, the
providing a market-driven solution to report highlights shared value examples
Organic cotton can play an important poverty, reducing inequality by raising for companies in the sector grappling
role in helping countries achieve the farm incomes, and promoting inclusive with how to integrate the SDGs into their
SDGs. Millions of people around societies through its reliance on core business and global supply chain.
the world live in rural communities cooperative working. Organic cotton The report builds on the SDG Industry
dependent on agriculture. Holistic is the vehicle to organic communities, Matrixes, by taking a value chain
organic farming systems based on the and success depends upon SDG approach to corporate action on the
organic principles of health, ecology, 17: Partnership for the Goals, building SDGs specifically in the apparel sector.
fairness and care build thriving and committed, interdependent supply
resilient communities that attract people networks that share risk and reward.
to stay on the land rather than move to

Brand commitments to organic cotton
Where organic cotton was once seen Superdry, for example, has said it will German Textile Partnership’s big shift towards organic cotton
as “niche,” today, brands of all sizes be working with farmers and suppliers
are making it a major component to support and help grow the organic The German Textile Partnership will have binding deadline and volume
of their fiber and material portfolios. cotton sector in order to be able to is a multi-stakeholder partnership targets for all members. Alongside
More and more brands and retailers reach their ambitious goal of using 100 with the objective of achieving individual goals, Partnership members
are setting targets and signing up to percent organic cotton by 2040. social, environmental and economic have jointly agreed to use at least 35
commitments for increasing their use improvements all along the textile supply percent sustainable cotton by 2020,
of organic cotton, encouraged by Other brands are making strong
chain. Partners include the following with 10 percent of the total volume being
growing evidence of the sustainability commitments too, including (but far
stakeholder groups: business sector; organic cotton. The aim is to increase
benefits of the fiber, and by the from limited to): Skunkfunk, Stella
non-governmental organizations; trade the proportion of sustainable cotton to
millennial generation bringing its buying McCartney, and EILEEN FISHER,
unions; standards organizations; and 70 percent by 2025, with 20 percent
power to the market. who have all committed to sourcing
the German government. From 2018, being organic cotton.
100 percent organic cotton by 2020;
the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles
According to the Key Insights Mantis World, who commits to 100
Report from Textile Exchange’s percent organic cotton by 2021; and
2017 Preferred Fiber & Materials Nudie Jeans Co, who committed to
2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge
Benchmark, 60 percent of participants 100 percent organic cotton by 2017,
who completed the organic cotton a target they have now achieved.
In May 2017, 13 of the world’s In March 2018, it was decided that the
module said they have set SMART
Many more brands are committing to most renowned clothing and textile International Sustainability Unit would
targets for uptake of organic cotton.
using organic cotton as part of their companies, in the presence of His close. Given this decision, it was agreed
Many are also part of public, group
wider commitments to source all of Royal Highness The Prince of Wales, that Textile Exchange would take over
commitments such as the German
their cotton from more sustainable signed up to the 2025 Sustainable the role of the initiative’s Secretariat, and
Textile Partnership or the Sustainable
sources, such as those brands that Cotton Challenge. In October 2017, 24 we are thrilled to help keep this great
Cotton Challenge. Such commitments
have signed up to the Sustainable more companies signed up at Textile momentum going.
are driving change in supply chains
Cotton Challenge or are part of the Exchange’s annual conference. C&A
as brands invest in finding innovative If your company is interested in signing
German Textile Partnership. also joined in January 2018, bringing the
and long-term solutions to secure up for the 2025 Sustainable Cotton
total number of companies to 38.
supply and build greater transparency. Challenge, please fill out the Pledge on
The initiative is a catalyst to spur a the initiative webpage.
shift in the market towards the use
of more sustainable cotton. Through Participating companies are required
this challenge, these companies have to independently publish their progress
committed to ensuring that 100 percent through Textile Exchange’s Preferred
of the cotton they use comes from Fiber & Materials Benchmarl Program.
sustainable sources by 2025.

Q&A with Crispin Argento
at the farm.Through our mission, we
are focused on integrity, supply, quality Q Where do you see OCA in
a year’s time?
Crispin Argento and impact. Our “farm first” approach
brings together the entire supply chain OCA is the first market-driven multi-
Executive Director, stakeholder initiative dedicated entirely to
to invest in programs and innovations
Organic Cotton Accelerator
and support the farmers that dedicate the enrichment and promotion of organic
themselves and their families to growing cotton. Since its inception at the Organic
this extraordinary fiber for our benefit and Cotton Round Table (OCRT), OCA has
set ambitious goals around growth, but
Q Tell us about your vision for What are you most excited enjoyment.
the organic cotton sector Q about doing in your new
role?
As we continue to come together as
recognizes there are many immediate
solutions that will lead to real impact in
At OCA, we are committed to creating a sector around a shared vision and the near future.
a prosperous organic cotton sector I am thrilled to be leading OCA at a time platform through OCA, we will finally
realize the full potential of organic cotton Over the course of this year and the
that benefits everyone—from farmer to when the sustainable cotton sector is
and its contributions for people, planet next, it is OCA’s primary responsibility to
consumer. To drive this commitment, gaining that critical momentum to bring
and long-term prosperity for generations bring the sector together to leverage our
OCA Affiliates and Partners have come lasting change. Personally, I am humbled
to come. collective expertise, mobilize resources
together to make organic cotton a and honored for the opportunity to
and continue to demonstrate through
viable, scalable and impactful solution work with people across the sector and
our programs and interventions that
for all. OCA is focused on accelerating around the world, who have dedicated
What have been the key organic cotton is a viable and scalable
investments and interventions that serve
the sector – addressing challenges
their lives to advancing organic cotton
from farmers to spinners, brands to Q learnings in the journey
above?
solution from farmer to consumer.
throughout the supply chain with activists, to the people on my team. It is OCA is a movement, a platform
emphasis on the farm and farmers. their vision, expertise and commitment OCA is focused on engaging and and a tool to make organic cotton a
that inspires my dedication to OCA’s and developing farmers, seed and scaling success. Where and how far we go
As a global platform, OCA celebrates the sector’s success. That is what truly investment in the sector to accelerate as a sector will be entirely up to those
the diversity within the cotton sector; we excites me. integrity, quality, supply and impact— that have made organic cotton their
value the contributions that sustainable globally. This includes a cutting- edge business. It is our willingness, together
Q
cotton has made to advancing positive What is the key role you direct brand-to-farm sourcing service, as representatives of the sector, to
impact all over the world. Our larger see OCA playing? farmer capacity building, industry- work and invest in its future. What that
vision recognizes organic cotton’s role in leading farm business intelligence and
As an accelerator, OCA was formed to looks like I don’t know, but I imagine it
meeting 2030 Sustainable Development impact data, investments in non-GMO
drive the solutions in the sector that will includes a future where organic cotton
Goals and we take special pride in seed innovations, integrity and product
lead to systemic and lasting changes is synonymous with positive economic,
the vital role OCA plays in driving all traceability as well as the development
through its investments and interventions social and environmental impact for all.
sustainable cotton forward. of a fund to empower farm groups and
scale sector investments. For more information, visit the OCA
Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases website.

Stakeholder directory SWITZERLAND
Who’s doing what across the globe? bioRe Foundation

Non-profit
This map locates the headquarters of some of the key international organizations
working on organic cotton. Region-specific activities are detailed later in this report.
C&A Foundation
Non-profit
UNITED KINGDOM
CottonConnect FiBL
Non-profit Research Institute
Fairtrade HELVETAS Swiss

International Intercoorporation
Voluntary Standard Non-profit
Pesticide Action
Network UK
Non-profit
GERMANY
GIZ
Soil Association Non-profit
Non-profit
Global Organic Textile

Standard (GOTS)
USA Voluntary Standard
Textile Exchange SOUTH AFRICA

Non-profit IFOAM-Organics
OrganiMark
International
Service Company
Non-profit
THE NETHERLANDS
Organic Cotton Supply Chain Intervention: Standards/Chain of Custody Market making
Accelerator (OCA)
Non-profit Field-level Intervention: Field data & analytics Development Seed breeding Field capacity building & training Cotton cultivation/processing
Informing & Convening: Education & awareness raising Market research & analytics Multi-stakeholder platforms

Organic cotton pricing
There is no universally accepted • Trade agreements between to farmers who are trading at the farm Country Fiber Seed Lint
definition or formalized mechanism producers and buyers gate, often receiving their annual income type US$/kg US$/kg
Avg. Avg.
for arriving at a price for organic seed in one lump sum. Farmers sell to
cotton or fiber. • Fairtrade certification on top of aggregators, ginners, mills, occasionally
Benin S-M-L 0.55 2.10
organic certification. to brands, and also to traders in the Brazil S-M-L 0.80 2.40
The rule-of-thumb is to take a open market. Burkina Faso S-M-L 0.60
reference price (this is usually the The average price differential is
China L-ELS 3.39
conventional cotton price quoted in the somewhere between 5 and 20 If farmers are vertically integrated into China S-M-L 2.93
country of origin or on the international percent, but can be as little as one the mills, or they have agreed trade and
percent or as large as 100 percent. Egypt L-ELS 1.39 4.13
commodity market at a set time) price arrangements with a buyer, partner
India S-M-L 0.72 1.90
and add a percentage increase to The price differential is supposed to company or organization, the price can
India L-ELS 0.88 2.15
cover the organic value addition, and cover: be decoupled from the commodity
possible compensation for a loss in market, or at least a minimum price is Kyrgyzstan S-M-L 1.80
yields. • Cost of production (and any agreed upfront, alongside other terms Mali S-M-L 0.60
losses in yield) and conditions of trade. Pakistan S-M-L 0.55 1.45
This differential is often called a “price Peru L-ELS 0.94 2.79
premium”, at Textile Exchange we • Internal Control System (ICS), Costs during manufacturing, such
Senegal S-M-L 0.60
refer to it as a “price differential.” It is certification and inspections as factory certification, bookkeeping,
Tajikistan S-M-L 0.55 1.88
agreed to between buyer and seller, chain of custody, product segregation,
• Training and extension services Tanzania S-M-L 0.58
yet heavily influenced by conventional possibly machine cleaning and running
commodity market prices. smaller volumes, need to be part of the Turkey S-M 0.71 2.08
• Investment in farming operations
final costing, but it is the value-addition Turkey M-L 0.78 2.17
Differentials on the seed cotton or at the growing stage where the majority Uganda S-M-L 1.52
• A percentage may also go
on the lint (ginned fiber) can range of the organic benefits are made.
towards the collective needs of USA S-M-L 2.55
depending on factors such as:
the community such as schooling, USA L-ELS 3.33
[See more on pricing models here:
• Market conditions and price health care, and housing
A World Beyond Certification: A best
elasticity, and market variances (in practices guide for organic cotton
• Research, development and
the supply and demand cycle) trading models, Textile Exchange and
investment in seed and farm
• Quality and staple length innovations Kering, page 21-25.]
• Country of origin The seed cotton price is the amount

Note: This organic cotton pricing tables above and over page provide estimated figures only, based on conversations
paid for the harvested cotton bolls with local experts. In 2016/17, according to our information, organic cotton prices ranged from US$/kg 1.45-3.33
• Amount of trash or contamination (with seed still attached). It is the seed (average of 2.34) compared to the Cotlook Index that ranged from 1.71-1.95 (average of 1.82) over the same time
cotton price that is most important period. Please refer to graphs over page, and accompanying text that explains factors affecting price, alongside
organic differentials.

ORGANIC SEED COTTON & ORGANIC LINT COTTON PRICES (2016/17)
Organic Cotton Lint Prices
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
3.4
3.6
3.8
4.0
4.2
4.4
The organic lint price is the market price USA organic upland averaged 2.55
of post-ginned cotton fiber. The seeds USD/kg, around 40 percent over the Benin S M L
have been removed (for seed selection Cotlook Index. USA organic Pima sold at
Brazil S M L
breeding or for processing by the 3.33 USD/kg.
organic food or feedstock sector). The Burkina Faso S M L
fiber is compressed and baled for the In India, sales of organic (short, medium,
textile industry. This is the product that long) fiber averaged 1.90 USD/kg, China L EL
feeds spinning mills, sold to spinners by around 7% more than conventional. ELS
China S M L
either farmers, ginners, or traders. fiber averaged 2.15 USD/kg.
Egypt L EL
Turkish organic lint prices averaged Peruvian organic (high quality ELS pima)
lint prices averaged USD 2.79, but India L EL
2.17 USD/kg, ranging from 1.90 to
2.32 USD/kg, depending upon quality prices varied through the year from USD
India S M L
and staple length. Turkish organic 1.95 to 3.63.
Kyrgyzstan S M L
fiber averaged 10 percent higher Brazil produced Fairtrade organic cotton
than conventional prices on the Izmir in North West of the country. The fiber Mali S M L
Commodity Exchange. prices ranged between USD 1.80 and
Pakistan S M L
In China, organic fiber prices averaged 3.00 per kg, averaging 2.40 USD/kg.
Peru L EL
2.93 USD/kg (differentials ranging 15-35 Organic fiber from Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan
percent over conventional). Organic ELS and Pakistan was priced between 1.45 Senegal S M L
prices averaged 3.28 USD/kg, up to 60 and 1.60 USD/kg.
percent higher than conventional ELS. Tajikistan S M L
Tanzania S M L
COMMODITY MARKET FOR CONVENTIONAL COTTON (2016/17) Turkey M L
3.0 Turkey S M
2.5
USA S M L
USA
USD/Kg Cotton Fiber
2.0
China USA L EL
1.5
India
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
3.4
3.6
3.8
4.0
4.2
4.4
1.0
Turkey US$ per kg
0.5
Organic Seed Cotton Price (2016/17): Range (Max/Min) Average Price
0 Organic Lint Cotton Price (2016/17): Range (Max/Min) Average Price
16
16
16
16
17
‘17
17
17
7
t ‘1
r ‘1
r ‘1
l ‘1
g‘
p‘
v‘
c‘
n‘
y‘
n‘
Fibre Length: S Short M Medium L Long EL Extra Long

b
Ju
Oc
Ma
Ap
No
Ma
De
Ja
Ju
Au
Se
Fe

Fiber classification
Global organic cotton fiber classification mapping KYRGYZSTAN TURKEY CHINA
Jala-Abad Aegean Xinjiang
L YC:50Ne L MIC:4.1-4.4 | YC:45-50Ne M L MIC:4.4 | YC:34-50Ne
USA EGYPT
Belbeis / Fayoum Elbeheira Izmir Gansu
Texas TAJIKISTAN M MIC:4.3-4.9 | YC:40Ne M MIC:3.5-4.7 | YC:34-40Ne
S M MIC:4.3-7.6 | YC:10-40Ne EL MIC:4.3-4.9 | YC:50-80Ne
Fergana Valley/Khujand
Hubei
M MIC:3.91 | YC:40Ne
M MIC:4.7 | YC:34-40Ne
BRAZIL
Piaui
M MIC:4 | YC: 30-40Ne
Ceara
M MIC:4 | YC: 34-50Ne
INDIA
Rio Grande Do Norte
M MIC:4 | YC:30-40Ne Rajasthan
M MIC:3.5-4.9 | YC:30-40Ne
Paraiba
S M MIC:4 | YC:10-40Ne Madhya Pradesh
M MIC:3.2-4.9 | YC:30-40Ne
Pernambuco
M MIC:4 | YC:30-40Ne Odisha
M L MIC:3.7-4.5 | YC:24-45Ne
PERU Andhra Pradesh

Lambayeque L EL MIC:3.6-4.9 | YC:40-80Ne
L EL MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:35-60Ne Tamil Nadu

L EL MIC:2.2-3.8 | YC:40-120Ne
Tarapoto
S MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:10-40Ne Karnataka
BENIN MALI TANZANIA L EL MIC:3.0-3.5 | YC:40-90Ne
Chincha Glazoue Banikoara Shinyanga
L MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:35-50Ne M YC:20-40Ne Maharashtra
M YC:20-40Ne M YC:20-40Ne
M MIC:3.5-4.2 | YC:24-40Ne
Banikoara
Singida Gujarat
Fiber Length Accronyms M YC:20-40Ne SENEGAL M YC:20-40Ne
S M MIC:3.2-4.5 | YC:10-40Ne
S Short MIC = Fiber Micronaire Koussanar, Senegal
M YC:20-40Ne
M Medium Ne = YC unit - English BURKINA FASO
System (1 Ne = 1 Hank/ lb)
UGANDA PAKISTAN
L Long Bobo Dioulasso
YC = Yarn Count M L YC:20-60Ne M MIC:3.5-4.9 | YC:24-36Ne
M YC:20-40Ne
EL Extra Long
3. Kering and Textile Exchange, 2017. Organic Cotton - A fiber classification guide.
Africa
Photo: C&A Foundation, Tanzania

2+ S + 98
Africa
MALI
REGIONAL PRODUCTION
1+99+S
SENEGAL
13+87+S
130 MT UGANDA
4 MT
765 MT
24,380 46,555 29%
0+100+S
ETHIOPIA
Organic Farmers Organic Certified Fiber (MT)
Land (ha) Year-On-Year Growth
In
Conversion
5,863 18,978 5%
Organic Cotton Organic In-Conversion Share of Global Organic
Fiber (MT) Land (ha) Cotton Production
8+92+S
BURKINA FASO
5-YEAR PRODUCTION TRENDS

491 MT
4,000
12+88+S
BENIN
3,500 Benin
3,000 Burkina Faso

699 MT
2,500 Mali
64+36+S
2,000 Senegal TANZANIA
1,500 Tanzania
1,000 Uganda 3,773 MT
500 Madagascar
0
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17

Africa
Tanzania
Senegal
Burkina
Uganda
Benin
Faso
Mali
In East Africa, Tanzania continues to BENIN
account for the vast majority of the 2,715 7,369 1,363 277 4,337 8,319
region (as well as the continent’s) In Benin, the partnership between the Organic Farmers
organic cotton production, followed by national Organization for the Promotion
Uganda. Ethiopia will also join the mix in of Organic Agriculture (OBEPAB) and
2017/18 as PAN UK’s project reaches PAN UK enabled the recruitment of two 3,384 3,731 9,865 92 16,883 12,600
Organic Certified
certification. additional female field agents. Farmers Land (ha)
have been trialing new methods, such
In West Africa, the 2016/17 season as using palm oil processing residue as
saw favorable climate conditions which, fertilizer. As a result, producers achieved 699 491 130 4 3,773 765
combined with training and support Organic Cotton
the highest organic cotton yield in the Fiber (MT)
received by farmers in Benin and West Africa region, at 226 kg fiber/ha.
Burkina Faso, resulted in an increase in
production in each country except Mali, BURKINA FASO no data no data 569 no data 18,409 no data
where investment is lacking. Organic In-Conversion
In Burkina Faso, the RECOLTE project, Land (ha)
While farmer numbers in the region led by Catholic Relief Services (CRS),
decreased by 2 percent, production continues to support farmers of the
72% 5% 4% 427% 17% 155%
increased by 33 percent, reflecting National Union of Cotton Producers of
Fiber Year-On-Year
improvements in yield experienced in Burkina (UNPCB) in training to improve
Benin and Burkina Faso. These two production techniques. This resulted
countries accounted for the majority (53 in an impressive yield increase of 63
0.6% 0.4% 0.1% 0.004% 3.2% 0.7%
and 37 percent, respectively) of West percent in 2016/17. RECOLTE is also
Share of Global Organic
Africa’s total organic cotton production in involved in developing the first organic Cotton Production
2016/17. cotton gin in West Africa, as well as a
new seed development initiative that
0.4% 0.2% 0.05% 0.1% 9.2% 2.7%
aims to improve the quality and quantity
Organic Share of National
of non-GMO seed in Burkina Faso. Cotton Production
Textile Exchange is partnering with CRS

on a series of activities in Burkina Faso
in 2018, including a Regional Organic
Cotton Round Table. Read more about
this and other CRS/ RECOLTE project
updates on pages 26 and 28.

Africa
MALI SENEGAL
Mali’s production of organic cotton, In Senegal, Yakaar Niani Wulli (YNW),
which reduced significantly in 2015/16 which was the main producer group in
when the group MOBIOM ceased previous years, has ceased producing
production, remained stable in 2016/17. organic cotton after struggling to find a
However, it is expected to decrease market for it.
again next year, largely due to reduced
farmer training and support. This support A new farm group was created named
was previously provided by HELVETAS’ SODEFIX, located in the district of
organic cotton program, which has Missirah Wadene in the west of the
now ended. The National Federation of country. SODEFITEX produced 4 MT
Producers of Organic and Fair Farming of organic cotton fiber in 2016/17 but,
in Mali (FENABE), which is made up of unless the market situation changes, little
some of MOBIOM’s previous farmers growth is anticipated in the near future.
but also many newcomers, sells its
organic cotton through The Malian Textile
Development Company (CMDT) but is
finding it lacks the support required to
grow the project. There is, however, a
new project being initiated that could
turn this situation around (see page 28).
Photo: Pesticide Action Network UK, Ethiopia

Africa
TANZANIA with plans to significantly expand its

land area and farmer numbers over the
In Tanzania, an impressive 9.2 percent coming years.
of the country’s overall cotton production
is organic, which is the second highest UGANDA
rate globally (after Kyrgyzstan). This
figure is expected to grow further in the Gulu Agricultural Development Company
coming years, with both of the countries’ (GADC), which accounts for all of
organic cotton producer groups, bioRe Uganda’s organic cotton production,
Meatu and BioSustain, expanding their saw an additional 2,319 farmers
production. become certified in 2016/17, resulting
in a 155 percent increase in production,
bioRe Meatu has over 1,000 ha currently from 300 to 765 MT fiber. This follows
in conversion to organic. The group a recent development project that
buys cotton from farmers based on included agricultural training for farmers.
floor prices set by the government every 2017 saw the start of a 3-year support
season, with a 15% premium added program, which aims to strengthen
based on the average price of the last village communities, provide financial
five years. training, and establish self-organized
support groups.
BioSustain is collaborating with the C&A
Foundation and Cotton House Africa,
“
This year’s crop has confirmed the good performance of the newly
introduced seeds with all organic farmers registered with bioRe
Tanzania Ltd. The higher yields as well as the good fiber quality
(28mm) are benefitting both the farmers and the industry alike. It is
a great success of the team of bioRe Tanzania Ltd. that the efforts
of more than twenty years of promoting organic practices are now
materializing in improved livelihoods of farmers.
Christa Suter
Managing Director,
bioRe Foundation Photo: Top and bottom left: bioRe, Tanzania; Bottom right: C&A Foundation, Tanzania

Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj
in manufacturing facilities in some the West. Similarly, brands and retailers
countries – notably Kenya and Ethiopia. in the West would be wise to consider
Prama Bhardwaj new supply lines from Africa where
CEO and Founder, Mantis World | However there is so much more to transparency is readily available and
Chair of Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa do to increase yields, provide support lessons can be learned from other textile
for farmers and to create markets for producing regions. The availability of
Sourcing Working Group
the cotton. In some countries, there raw material including organic cotton
are many multi sector actors who already exists – I hope in the medium
are working collectively in the region
Q other regions where intensive farming of term we will see the development and
Why Africa? conventional cotton has been the norm.
from NGOs, brands and retailers, growth of a high quality supply chain.
Government agencies, producers
In 2015 I was chairing a breakout At Mantis World we have always and suppliers. This is the sort of Through multi stakeholder discussion,
session on Africa at the OCRT in sourced from Tanzania since we started collaboration needed to bring about I believe Governments will hear a loud
Hamburg. There was a strong desire 18 years ago. Not just the raw material, meaningful and sustainable long term and clear message of what is needed
from brands and retailers to explore but finished garments and we have now growth across the region. at the policy and implementation level to
sourcing from Africa and from farming switched all our Tanzanian production really propel growth. The supply chain
groups who needed markets for their
organic cotton, but no one really knew
of garments to organic cotton certified
to GOTS and OCS standards. So Q Where next? needs to be developed so that much
needed value addition is kept within
how to connect and where to go. As a we know that it is possible albeit not the region, bringing with it technology,
Sub sahara Africa is diverse and young
result the Pan Africa Sourcing Working without challenges and hope to act as employment and development. The
– the average age is 18 compared with
Group was created to map, connect an example and source for other brands work Mantis World is doing with vertically
the average age in Europe of 40. So
and grow sourcing of organic cotton and and retailers. integrated factory Sunflag Tanzania
many of tomorrow’s consumers and
sourcing in Africa. The interest in the keeps the whole value chain in one
Q How Far have we come as innovators will be African. I hope to see

work of the Group demonstrates clear country in Africa and so we know that
an industry? consolidation and growth of trade within
signals for growth and understanding of it is possible. What will be needed is
the region as African consumers will
this sector. Interest in the region has never been more investment along with a favourable
need supply of textiles, and a growing
stronger. At Mantis World, we have policy climate to really grow the sector
Sub-Sahara Africa affords several number will want to move away from
more customers than ever asking for and make it more commercially viable.
benefits for sourcing organic cotton. buying the fast fashion castoffs from
“made in Africa” garments. We are
Many countries have banned
seeing huge growth of organic farmers
GMO cotton, and because of the
in Tanzania and Uganda, the regional
small number of actors in the field,
OCRT bringing together actors in
transparency and integrity are assured.
West Africa and an exciting project
There is huge potential for poverty
of in conversion cotton in Ethiopia.
reduction without the damaging
There has also been a dramatic rise
environmental impact we have seen in Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases

Africa
What Textile Exchange is doing
“
We are excited and eager to partner with Textile Exchange in growing
the organic cotton sector in Burkina Faso and the region. Connecting
Regional Organic Cotton Round Table | Burkina Faso
to different markets, thousands of organic cotton producers,
September 28, 2018
more than half of whom are women, for inclusive and sustainable
Textile Exchange is delighted to be interviews that were carried out for the development are our common goals.
collaborating with Catholic Relief MOSP by Change Agency. Boubacar Kamissokho
Services (CRS) on a series of organic Chief of Party,
cotton focused activities in West Held during the Salon International du CRS RECOLTE Project Burkina Faso
Africa. These include the launch of a Coton et du Textile (SICOT, 27-28th
new Regional Organic Cotton Round September), the Regional OCRT is
Table (OCRT) in Koudougou on 28th part of four days of events focused on Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Coalition West Africa
September 2018, a Market Opportunity organic and fair trade cotton in West
Scoping Project (MOSP), and a Africa, including a workshop of the Faso, Senegal and Benin together
documentary-style video. The agenda Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Coalition with Aproca, ecos and FiBL and in
for the Regional OCRT will be framed West Africa on 26th September, and a partnership with Fairtrade International
around the results of the research field trip on 29th September. and Textile Exchange. The aim of this
initiative is to establish and maintain
The Organic and Fairtrade Cotton market access for tens of thousands
Coalition West Africa was launched of small farmer families in West Africa
Pan-Africa Sourcing Working Group in December 2017 by six producer producing organic-fairtrade cotton and
organizations from Mali, Burkina other organic crops.
Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa Sourcing Virtual meetings are held quarterly, with
Working Group was initiated at the occasional in-person meetings, usually
2016 Organic Cotton Round Table in held during the annual Global OCRT. Salon International du Coton et du Textile
Hamburg, when it was proposed that The ultimate objective of the group is
a group be established to work on the to develop and support the market The Salon International du Coton et increase international trade by creating
various priorities that had been identified for preferred/more sustainable cotton du Textile (SICOT) aims to expose and linkages between cotton companies,
for expanding organic cotton production produced in Africa. The current focus of promote Burkina cotton as an industry the National Cotton Producers Union of
in Africa and better connecting to the group is to map the African cotton for capital investment into cotton Burkina (UNPCB), and buyers from all
supply networks. The group is chaired and sustainability sector by building processing. It will be an opportunity to over the world.
by Prama Bhardwaj, CEO of Mantis a stakeholder map and a supplier
World, and currently has 23 members. directory.
If you’d like to find out more about Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa Sourcing Working
Group or Regional OCRT, please contact Materials@TextileExchange.org.

C&A Foundation’s organic cotton program, Tanzania
2017 marked the beginning of C&A that the farmers have access to seeds
Foundation’s organic cotton program in and bio-pesticides.
Tanzania. The program, implemented by
GIZ, currently trains over 5,000 cotton These companies have been leaders in
farmers on organic cotton cultivation Tanzania’s sustainable cotton movement
practices. Two progressive cotton and, through their support, it is expected
companies – Alliance and BioSustain – that, in its first year, the program will yield
are facilitating the training and ensuring 1,200 MT in-conversion cotton lint.
Photo: Pesticide Action Network UK, Ethiopia
Pesticide Action Network supports 200 cotton farmers in

Ethiopia to achieve organic certification
Since 2013, with financial support certification. By learning to farm
from TRAID, Pesticide Action Network sustainably, these farmers are not only
(PAN) has been providing support in the protecting their health and that of the
form of finance, technical assistance planet but are also achieving yields
and market linkages to over 2,000 over 100 percent higher than untrained
smallholder cotton farmers in southern farmers in the same area.
Ethiopia. Organic cotton production
requires confident, well-trained farmers As of early 2018, there is a total of
with crop and pest management and 2,883 smallholder farmers involved in
problem-solving skills. the project, with even more expected
to join over the coming year. There is
The training offered by PAN through potential, therefore, that this region’s
its Farmer Field Schools demonstrates production of organic cotton could grow
the benefits of good crop husbandry, significantly, though it is important to
Integrated Pest Management (IPM), and note that the decision on whether or not
soil improvement without the use of to certify to organic is entirely up to the
expensive and hazardous pesticides. individual farmer, so the extent of this
growth in not yet certain.
In December 2017, 200 of the farmers
Photo: Top & bottom left: C&A Foundation, Tanzania; Bottom right - Pesticide Action Network UK, Ethiopia
in this project gained organic cotton

Pesticide plants for organic cotton in Mali The first organic cotton gin in West Africa
The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew in current use of pesticide plant species. It On February 15th, 2018, the ground- Growers Of Burkina) to resolve
the UK is carrying out a Pesticide Plants will not only identify those pesticide plant breaking ceremony took place for the bottlenecks related to delayed ginning
Project for the production of organic species and their active compounds, first organic cotton gin in West Africa, of organic cotton. This, in turn, will
cotton in Mali, funded by the Darwin but help cultivate them, optimize located in Koudougou. The gin is a encourage growth in organic cotton
Initiative and TRAID. The project is their use and promote awareness of collaboration between the USDA-funded production and international trade.
working with local farmers and national biodiversity and pesticide plants among RECOLTE project, CRS, UNPCB, and Currently, organic cotton is ginned six
institutions in-country to understand the policy makers and local people. SOFITEX. It is hoped that the gin will be months later than conventional cotton,
up and running by early 2019. which delays the entire production
chain and payment to producers and, in
The installation of the plant will enable turn, discourages timely organic cotton
UNPCB (National Union Of Cotton production and participation.
Photos: Top & bottom left - Textile Exchange, Burkina Faso; Right - RECOLTE Project/ Catholic Relief Services, Burkina Faso

BENIN
Textile Exchange
Stakeholder directory Non-profit
Who’s doing what In Africa?

Sourcing Coalition
for Organic-Fairtrade
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to Cotton from West
Africa (CCBE)
support organic cotton in this region.
Partnerships
ETHIOPIA
Cotton House Africa
MALI (CHA)
Pesticide Action
Network Non-profit
FENABE - National
Federation of Organic Non-profit
and Fairtrade
Producers (previously Pesticide Action
MoBioM) Network UK
Producer Organization Non-profit
OBEPAB
BURKINA FASO Non-profit
Catholic Relief UGANDA

Services/RECOLTE SENEGAL
(Revenue through Gulu Agricultural TANZANIA
Cotton Livelihoods, YAKAAR NIANI WULLI Development
Trade, and Equity) Company bioRe Tanzania
Producer Organization
Non-profit Service Company Non-profit
SODEFITEX
UNPCB Elmertex
Service Company
Producer Organization Service Company BioSustain
Service Company
C&A Foundation
Partnerships
Supply Chain Intervention: Standards/Chain of Custody Market making

Field-level Intervention: GIZ
Field data & analytics Development Seed breeding Field capacity building & training Cotton cultivation/processing
Partnerships

China
Photo: CottonConnect, China

China REGIONAL PRODUCTION
91+9+S 9+91+S
XINJIANG
824 11,846 52% GANSU

Organic Farmers Organic Certified Fiber (MT) 20,473 MT
Land (ha) Year-On-Year Growth
2,048 MT
22,521 5,108 19%

5-YEAR PRODUCTION TREND
25,000
0+100+S
SHANXI
20,000
Seed
2+98+S
HUBEI
15,000
Pilot
China
10,000 1 MT
5,000
0
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17

China
China
There are three main provinces In China, to sell a product as organic,
producing organic cotton in China - brands and retailers need to be certified 824
Xinjiang, Gansu and Hubei - though the to China-NOP (GOTS and OCS Organic Farmers
majority of production takes place in cannot be labeled). As a result, local
Xinjiang. There was a significant increase brands, particularly SMEs, have also
of 52 percent in the country’s production begun to adopt the China-NOP for 11,846
Organic Certified
of organic cotton in 2016/17, particularly the domestic market. The China NOP Land (ha)
of cotton certified to China’s National standard is much more strict in terms of
Organic Program (NOP). This took requirements, for instance allowing only
China’s total production to 22,521 MT, natural dyes and requiring the cotton 22,521
Organic Cotton
19 percent of the global total. used in the product to be 100 percent Fiber (MT)
organic.
This increase in production is, for the
most part, fueled not by the textile In terms of organic cotton pricing, the 5,108
industry but by demand from the organic gap between China and India seems to Organic In-Conversion
Land (ha)
dairy industry, which uses organic cotton have narrowed compared to last year,
seed as feed for dairy cattle, particularly though is still significant. A number of
in the Xinjiang region. farms are focusing on growing ELS 52%
organic cotton as a way to combat the Fiber Year-On-Year
China has a significant area of land in price differential between China and
conversion to organic, totaling 5,108 ha India.
in 2016/17, which will reach certification 19%
over the next couple of years, indicating Suppliers in China have noted that Share of Global Organic
that the current growth trend in China’s brands are beginning to ask more Cotton Production
organic cotton production looks set to frequently about sourcing organic
continue. cotton from within China, but quantity 0.5%
remains an issue. Demand aggregation
and clustering is something that Textile Cotton Production
Exchange’s China Working Group will be
looking at as a potential solution.

China
What Texile Exchange is doing
China Working Group
Textile Exchange’s China Working Group conventional to preferred fibers and

was formed following the Regional materials at scale, resulting in substantial
Strategy Meeting for China held during reductions of environmental impacts.
the 2017 Organic Cotton Round Table
in Washington D.C. At this meeting, Key focus areas for the group include:
many questions arose and the need for • Education and training to engage
a region-specific working group became consumers, the market place,
apparent. suppliers and manufacturers.
Though Textile Exchange already has • Harnessing the momentum of the
fiber-specific working groups, it was SDGs, which China is leading on.
decided that a cross-cutting, multi-fiber
working group was needed for China. • Supplier mapping to build networks
This was due to the country being the and supporting suppliers in the
biggest producer and user of many of adoption of preferred fibers and
the world’s major fibers and materials, materials.
and also having a large and growing
fashion and apparel market. • Transparency and traceability to
ensure integrity.
Though relatively new, the China
Working Group already includes • Clarification on regulations to
members from brands, suppliers, address misconceptions.
manufacturers and industry
If you’d like to find out more about Textile
organizations. The aim is to create a
Exchange’s China Working Group,
framework, network and business case
please contact Evonne Tan: Evonne@
on which China has the knowledge,
TextileExchange.org
confidence and supply chain
connections to collectively move from

Q&A with Veronica Yow
this need. Organic premium again
Veronica Yow
is based on production. Models like
carbon insetting helps companies to
Q What iInspires and excites
you to keep going?
invest in practices that reduce carbon
Manager, Sustainable Markets & Seeing the difference in the soil when
emissions within their supply chain while
Finance, Rare compost is applied vs. commercial
supporting farmers to adopt carbon
organic fertilizer vs. chemical. The color,
farming practices. This helps companies
the texture, the moisture in the soil and
to meet both sustainable sourcing and
when you smell the soil, you smell life.
Q What was great about and promoting organic and climate- climate goals.
And especially when farmers see and
2017? smart practices that improve the soil
understand this.
such as compost and improved residue
Meeting Qi Suqin for the first time management.
during the brands site visit that we
organized. Ms. Qi is a farmer and also We also begun a new and exciting
the Campaign Manager for Rare’s “Let’s partnership with Shokay, which
Farm Organic” project which is funded specializes in yak wool to develop a
by C&A Foundation. She helps to Yak Cotton blend from in transition
promote organic practices among her cotton from our partner farms to offer
peers at our partner farm. I’ve known of more varieties of organic/in transition
Ms.Qi for a couple of months then but products, especially for smaller brands
have not met her yet. When I saw her, which normally only source fabric. More
she immediately embraced me like an information is available here.
old friend even though we’ve never met.
Through that site visit, we secured a What was the most
3-year purchase agreement from a local
Chinese brand for that farm. Although Q important lesson you’ve
learnt since starting your
the quantity isn’t big, it’s a good work in organic cotton?
beginning to get more brands to support
Feed the soil and let the soil feed the
organic/in transition particularly in China.
plants. Organic certification serves a
Q What are you working on certain function but is not a true proxy
right now? for environmental outcomes. We need to
align intention and incentives to actively
We are supporting farmers to transition support farmers adopt practices that Photos: Rare, China
Extra Long Staple cotton towards will restore soil health and there needs
organic cultivation in Xinjiang, China to be a financial mechanism that meets Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases

China
C&A Foundation organic cotton program in China CottonConnect’s activities in China
C&A Foundation supports organic cultivation yielding 4 MT lint certified CottonConnect works closely with introduced them to new technologies,
cotton cultivation in China in and 186 MT lint in conversion. The brands on interventions aimed at microfinance and credit options. It is a
collaboration with two key partners – foundation’s efforts have motivated the improving productivity and reducing first step towards long term resilience
CottonConnect and Rare. Currently C&A commitment of supply chain actors, with environmental impacts in cotton for communities, providing a platform
Foundation’s partners support farmers additional investment support coming production in China, through REEL for access to finance and community
with organic cotton cultivation in three in from Huiton – a spinning mill based Cotton, BCI and organic programs. organization. The Rights and Life Skills
provinces – Hubei, Shandong and in Shandong, and Organic Cotton CottonConnect implements projects training Women in Cotton communities
Xinjiang. Across these three regions 347 Awareness – a local Chinese brand to in the Xinjiang, Hebei and Shandong are trained and empowered with the
Hectare area is under organic cotton the farmers in these programs. regions. skills to take action in their lives, and are
respected.
Women account for 45 percent of the
total employed population in China. Together with C&A Foundation,
Fewer female farmers than male farmers CottonConnect provides technical and
attend CottonConnect technical training, financial support to farmers in China,
though they are major workforce in enabling them to convert to organic and
cotton farms. CottonConnect therefore become certified.
introduced the Women in Cotton
program into China, consisting of To find out more about CottonConnect’s
Farmer Business School and Rights and activities in China and other cotton
Life Skills. Farmers Business School growing regions visit their website:
encourages farmers to see their farm cottonconnect.org
as a business and CottonConnect has
Photo: CottonConnect, China

Photos: CottonConnect, China

China
Rare’s extra-long-staple Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Luthai

organic cotton now practices biological pest control,
introducing predatory mites, spraying BT
Since 2015, Rare, as part of a program bio-pesticides, and planting corn as a
funded by C&A Foundation, has trap-crop. Vertically integrated from farm
leveraged its renowned community to manufacturing, Luthai has transitioned
behavior-change approach to help 207 of its 6,667 hectares of land to
establish an organic cotton presence organic ELS cotton this past year.
in China. In 2018, Rare partnered with
two large farms in the Xinjiang region to The second farming partner, Jintian
begin producing organic Extra-Long- Farm, is one of the few farms in
Staple (ELS) cotton. ELS cotton is the Xinjiang to practice crop rotation
prominent textile for luxury products. Its (alternating between rice and cotton
high staple-length allows for a finer yarn- every three years). Established in 2004
count, ensuring a more premium feel, as a family-business, Jintian adopted
and greater longevity. China’s particular Rare’s community-based approach to
variety of ELS (grown exclusively engage the now 200+ Jintian farmers
in Xinjiang) is comparable with the in adopting organic farming practices.
prestigious Peruvian Pima, Indian Suvin, Jintian transitioned 58 of its 1,467
and Egyptian Giza cotton varieties. hectares of lands to organic ELS cotton
this past year. Jintian is also located on
The first farming partner, Luthai Farm, the path of migratory birds.
was the first Better-Cotton-Initiative (BCI)
farm in China, and remains the nation’s Both farms remain deeply excited
largest (conventional) ELS cotton about the prospects of their premium,
grower. In collaboration with the Fujian environmentally conscious fiber.
Photos: Rare, China

Stakeholder directory
Who’s doing what in China?
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to

CHINA
Textile Exchange
Non-profit
C&A Foundation
Non-profit
Rare
Non-profit
CottonConnect
Social Enterprise

Field-level Intervention: Field data & analytics Development Seed breeding Field capacity building & training Cotton cultivation/processing

EMENA &
Central Asia
Photo: Cotonea, Kyrgyzstan

EMENA & Central Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION
3+97+S 31+69+S 32+68+S

GREECE TURKEY KYRGYZSTAN
850 MT 7,741 MT 8,019 MT

2,614 17,407 7%
Organic Farmers Organic Certified Fiber (MT) Growth
Land (ha) Over 2015/16
24,756 3,887 21%

9,000
7+93+S 23+77+S
8,000 EGYPT TAJIKISTAN
Egypt
7,000
Greece
6,000
5,000 Israel 1,742 MT 6,405 MT
4,000 Kyrgyzstan
3,000
Tajikistan
2,000
Turkey
1,000 Please note that, since publication of the 2017 OCMR, it has come to our attention that the data
reported for Turkey, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan’s 2015/16 production was incorrect. Additionally, it has
0 since been discovered that Greece also produces some organic certified seed cotton, though it is
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 not separated at the gin and is therefore not currently sold as organic cotton fiber on the market.

Kyrgyzstan
EMENA & Central Asia
Tajikistan
Greece
Turkey
Egypt
Overall, this region experienced a seven fiber on the market. For manufacturing
percent rise in organic cotton production organic cotton yarn, Greece currently 360 no data 1,009 1,049 196
in 2016/17. Though Central Asia (in imports organic fiber from Turkey. Organic Farmers
this case Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan)
experienced a marginal decline in According to the Greek Ministry of
production following the considerable Rural Development and Food, there 542 1,153 6,929 4,920 3,863
were 1,153 ha of land growing organic Organic Certified
spikes seen over the previous two years, Land (ha)
Egypt and Turkey both saw increases. cotton in 2016/17. Total production is
Additionally, it came to our attention that estimated at 2,500 MT seed cotton,
Greece is also producing organic cotton which would be equivalent to around 1,742 850 8,019 6,405 7,741
850 MT fiber. Organic Cotton
(read more opposite), which further Fiber (MT)
bumped up volumes. Greece’s most important area for cotton
production, and where the organic
EGYPT no data no data 991 175 2,721
cotton is also grown, is Larissa and Organic In-Conversion
In Egypt, there is exciting news from Karditsa in the center of the country. Land (ha)
FILMAR SpA’s Cottonforlife project,

Organic cotton production in Greece
which recently announced that it is 70% 39% 0.5% 3.2% 2.2%
is subsidized by the European Union
being scaled up to a National Project Fiber Year-On-Year
at approximately 500€/ha. The Cotton
through the United Nations Industrial
Committee, organized by the Greek
Development Organization (read more
Ministry, is trying to include organic
on page 44). 1.5% 0.7% 6.8% 5.4% 6.6%
cotton production as part of the Greek
There was also good news from Cotton Trademark strategy, but this is still Cotton Production
SEKEM, which saw its total organic in development.
cotton production more than double.
4.6% 0.4% 66.8% 7.5% 1.1%
GREECE Organic Share of National
Cotton Production
It came to our attention this year that
there is cotton being grown organically in
Greece, though it is not separated at the
gin due to the quantities rarely reaching
processing minimums and is, therefore,
not currently sold as organic cotton

EMENA & Central Asia
KYRGYZSTAN TAJIKISTAN TURKEY 2017/18, as some of the 2,721 ha of

land currently in conversion to organic
Last year, Kyrgyzstan experienced Tajikistan, which last year saw a Between 1995 and 2016 , Turkey’s reaches certification.
significant growth. This stabilized in considerable spike in production, overall (conventional) cotton cultivation
2016/17; however, another 991 ha is experienced a marginal decline in area reduced dramatically from 757,000 This trend is also likely to impact the
in conversion to organic, suggesting 2016/17. A large portion of Tajikistan’s ha to 416,000 ha, despite demand for import/export markets, with a decrease
further growth in the coming years. This production stems from the DoCotton cotton having increased. However, 2017 in cotton imports and an increase in
trend is being fueled largely by projects Group, which came on board last year marked a change in this trend, with an maize imports. At present, approximately
implemented by Turkish mills. Almost and produce organic cotton for Turkish increase in cotton production of nine half of Turkey’s 1.5 million MT annual
all of this production is exported to mills. Bio-Kishovarz, the longstanding percent and growth also anticipated for cotton consumption is imported.
Turkey to be processed after ginning, Fairtrade producer group located in 2018.
Turkey retains its unique status of
though the organic Fairtrade cotton Khujand, where production is carried
One of the main reasons for this is that being GMO-free and, as GM cotton
produced by BioServices, the initial out on smallholder - or “Dekhkan”
Turkey’s Ministry of Food, Agriculture and production spreads rapidly across the
pioneer of organic cotton in Kyrgyzstan – family farms, remains very active.
Livestock changed its support policy globe (now accounting for around 77
and previously backed by HELVETAS, Though experiencing a slight decline in
against maize and in favor of cotton. percent of global cotton cultivation), the
goes mainly to mills in Eastern Europe. production this year, it has another 175
The support premium paid per kg of major problems experienced with GM
BioServices remains very active and ha in conversion to organic.
seed cotton was 42 kurus in 2011, cotton in some countries indicate how
experienced a 21 percent growth in
rising gradually each year to 75 kurus important Turkey’s GMO-free status
production of organic cotton in 2016/17.
in 2016. In the same period of time, the is for the global cotton industry (both
premium paid per kg of maize remained conventional and organic). In recent
consistent at 4 kurus, until 2016 when years, the Turkish National Cotton
it was halved to 2 kurus. Turkish farmers Council has been working to create an
are naturally very responsive to market identity for “GMO-Free Turkish Cotton.”
fluctuations and so this policy change
is leading to growth in domestic cotton
production; a trend that is seen for both
conventional and organic cotton.
In 2016/17, 7,741 tons (1.1 percent)

of Turkey’s overall cotton production
was organic, representing growth
for the second year running. Though
only 2 percent in 2016/17, a sharp
Photo: HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation, Kyrgyzstan rise is expected in this growth trend

EMENA & Central Asia WAPRO: The integration of water stewardship into organic
cotton projects
Water consumption for irrigation cotton sector with water stewardship.
purposes has been regarded as weak
point of cotton even under organic The first phase of WAPRO ran from
cotton farming conditions. Doubtless, 2015 till 2018 and was implemented
Second Regional Organic Cotton Round Table, Izmir organic cotton production may bear in six-subprojects in the four countries
potential water related benefits created of India, Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan and
by less water demand within the overall Tajikistan. Organic cotton farmers in
Textile Exchange first introduced the President of Demeter International,
crop rotation, higher soil water retention Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan were integrated
concept of the Regional Organic Cotton join us as keynote speaker, alongside
capacities due to higher organic matter into the water stewardship work.
Round Table (OCRT) in Izmir in 2017. over 100 representatives from brands,
Met with great interest, a second producer groups, NGOs, government content and particularly qualitative The first WAPRO phase generated a
Regional OCRT in Izmir was held on agencies and industry organizations, advantages due to non-contamination wealth of knowledge regarding water
10th May 2018 during the 9th EKOLOJI including GOTS, H&M, HUGO BOSS, of run-off water. Nevertheless, there saving measures and technologies on
Trade Show, hosted and sponsored IFOAM – Organics International, Nudie is room for improvement by adopting field level as well as valuable lessons
once again by our key collaboration Jeans, and Stella McCartney. You can modern approaches of water on how to moderate and implement
partner, IZFAS. We were honored to read their inspiring insights in the 2018 stewardship thereby addressing also water stewardship processes and
have Helmy Abouleish, CEO of the Highlights Report. issues of water governance and water communicate them on relevant policy
SEKEM Initiative and recently elected distribution via collective action of cotton levels.
farmers.
The second phase of WAPRO is now
The WAPRO project’s name is derived in its final planning stages. Aimed to run
from an acronym of WAter and until end 2021 with an overall budget
PROductivity. It is a multi-stakeholder of 15 Million US$ it will be comprised
initiative funded by the Swiss Agency for of ten subprojects, two of which being
Development and Cooperation (SDC), fully organic and another two (Kyrgyzstan
with HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation and Tajikistan) having a majority of the
as consortium leader, and is an attempt farmers as organic cotton farmers.
to combine value chains in the rice and
Photo: HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation, Kyrgyzstan

Q&A with Aydin Unsal
Aydin Unsal
Owner and President of the Board,
Egedeniz Textile
Q Can you tell us a little bit

about Egedeniz Textile? Q What are you most proud
of?
Egedeniz was the first certified We recently decided to start measuring
organic textile company in Turkey. We and managing our social footprint,
have contracted farmers for organic starting from the 2018 crop year.
agriculture, and sell organic cotton as
fiber, yarn, knitted and woven fabrics, We are also a strong supporter of the
and garments to many well-known SDGs, and have a robust CSR agenda
brands around the world. that we have been mapped to the
SDGs.
Q What were the highlights of

2017?
Q What does the future hold?
In 2017, we developed a Living Wage
project with one of our customers for Global organic cotton consumption
the workers who are involved in the growth is still at very slow pace, just
manufacturing of our products. This like Turkish domestic market. Despite
project will continue over the coming this slow growth, we are receiving
years. increasingly enquiries from many
different countries around the world,
We also added 6 large-scale farmers mostly from start-up companies.
to our organic project, increasing our
current production by 50 percent. These We are also developing yarns/fabrics
3. Shift, 2018, Egedeniz Textile’s Living Wage Project
farms will be certified organic from the from recycled materials as demand for
2019 crop year. these grows, including some blends
with organic cotton. I believe Turkey has
the potential to become a leader for
these qualities. Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases

Cottonforlife partners with UNIDO to scale up organic cotton
production in Egypt
Cottonforlife, a private sector initiative of staple Egyptian cotton by improving the

FILMAR SpA that has been supporting a economic, social and environmental
group of contracted farmers in Egypt to performance of cotton growers and
grow long and extra-long staple organic processors and strengthening support
cotton for the last three years, recently institutions. The activities will be carried
announced that it is being scaled out in coordination with the Cotton
up to a National Project through the Egypt Association to protect the purity
United Nations Industrial Development of Egyptian cotton and to build new
Organization (UNIDO) in response business models with everyone involved
to growing consumer demand and in the supply chain, both local and
sustainability commitments of brands. international.
Through the national project, UNIDO and Cottonforlife currently cultivates organic
FILMAR are working in coordination with cotton on around 120 ha in Damietta,
institutional counterparts such as Egypt’s northeastern Egypt, in partnership
Ministry of Trade & Industry and Ministry with Sekem. The new partnership with
of Agriculture and Land Reclamation, UNIDO will allow these demo plots to be
as well as other national stakeholders, rolled out more widely, and the potential
to improve transparency, traceability to benchmark practices to international
and sustainability in Egyptian cotton standards is also being explored.
production and industrial processing.
The aim is to promote organic and
non-contaminated long and extra-long
Photo: CottonForLife/ UNIDO, Egypt Photos: CottonForLife/ UNIDO, Egypt

KYRGYZSTAN
Who’s doing what in EMENA & Central Asia?
Bio Services
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to Service Company
HELVETAS Swiss
Intercoorporation
Non-profit
TURKEY
Textile Exchange Cotonea / Elmertex

Non-profit Partnerships
IZFAS
Partnerships
TAJIKISTAN
GIZ
EGYPT Non-profit
SEKEM
Service Company HELVETAS Swiss
Intercoorporation
Non-profit
Cotton for Life
Partnerships
Bio-Kishovarz
cooperative


Latin America &
the Caribbean
Photo: Tatiana Cardeal for C&A Foundation, Brazil

Latin America & the Caribbean
100+0+S
HAITI REGIONAL PRODUCTION
Pilot
Project
11+89+S
BRAZIL
474 1,226 16%
Organic Farmers Organic Certified Fiber (MT) Year-On-
Land (ha) Year Growth 43 MT
381 460 0.3%

89+11+S
PERU

338 MT
7,000
6,000
1+99+S
Argentina ARGENTINA
5,000 Brazil
4,000 Peru
0.4 MT
3,000 Paraguay
2,000 Nicaragua
1,000 Colombia
0
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17

Argentina
Brazil
Peru
Organic cotton production in Latin last year didn’t help the situation. The
America is characterized by smallholder lack of effective governmental programs 5 308 161
family farms organized in groups, usually or investments from the textile industry in Organic Farmers
supported by NGOs or traders. The the organic sector was again sorely felt.
production is rainfed and therefore very
In spite of this, the region still 100 496 630
dependent on the climate situation.
experienced a 16 percent growth in Organic Certified
Since 2013, the region has been Land (ha)
production of organic cotton overall, with
affected by the natural phenomenon
production taking place predominantly in
“el Niño,” which resulted in several
Perú and Brazil, and a small amount also 0.4 43 338
years of severe drought in producing
in Argentina. Momentum in the region Organic Cotton
regions. Peaking in 2016, the drought Fiber (MT)
is building, with a growing number
significantly affected production of
of strategic events and movements
organic cotton.
underway related to organic and more no data 155 305
2017 saw the beginning of a transition sustainable cotton, and a number of Organic In-Conversion
back to a more typical climate, but institutes associated to big retailers Land (ha)
farmers were still very affected by losses already having expressed agendas to
from previous years. Lack of investment, develop more sustainable supply chains. no data 155% 21%
a shortage in supply of good quality The potential for organic cotton in this
Fiber Year-On-Year
seed, and a great deal of uncertainty region is certainly looking bright.
meant that the strong growth anticipated
for this region has not yet been realized. <0.01% 0.04% 0.3%
Economic instability in countries such as Share of Global Organic
Argentina, Colombia, and Brazil over the Cotton Production
<0.01% <0.01% 1.5%

Cotton Production

ARGENTINA of ESPLAR in Ceará and EMATER in
Paraíba. This resulted in 43 MT organic
For many years, since the end of a cotton fiber cultivated on 220 ha (part Organic Cotton Round Table Regional Strategy:
project known as “Another South of a total production area of 496 ha). Latin America
Market,” there was no significant Another 155 ha is growing cotton in
organic cotton production in Argentina. transition to organic. 2017 saw the At the 2017 Organic Cotton Round importance of creating a Platform to
Notwithstanding the unfavorable political launch of the first Brazilian Eco Fashion Table (OCRT), held in Washington improve awareness of the potential of
and economic situation in the country, Week, with tremendous coverage in the D.C. on October 12, Textile Exchange organic cotton as a sustainable value
a project began in the Chaco province media. hosted a Regional Strategy Meeting for chain, and to promote and divulge
and 2017 saw the first biodynamic Latin America, with participation from related projects, partnerships and
certified organic cotton produced in PERU stakeholders including C&A Institute, business opportunities in the region.
the country. The company Stay True Natural Cotton Colors, Timberland, Textile Exchange, with its growing
developed a beautiful project in the In Perú, Bergman Rivera/Ecotton
remains responsible for the country’s Smallholder Farmers Alliance Haiti, experience in catalyzing and developing
native community QOM and five farmers Bergman Rivera/Ecotton. VEJA/VERT regional strategies for organic cotton,
of the project produced the first 0.4 MT production of organic cotton. Working
with producer groups in different regions Shoes, SOCiLA and COSA. is keen to progress this platform, but
of organic cotton fiber from 2.5 ha of regional partners and funders are
land (part of a total production area of of the country, they assisted and bought The participants of this important
organic cotton from 161 farmers who, in needed in order to achieve this.
100 ha). The project is growing and it is meeting expressed the necessity to
estimated that production will reach 10 2016/17, produced a combined total of increase organic cotton production Join us for the 2018 OCRT in Milan on
MT in 2018. 338 MT fiber on 311 ha (part of a total and processing in Latin America October 22 to continue the discussions
production area of 630 ha). Another and the Caribbean’s textile industry. on creating a regional strategy for Latin
BRAZIL 305 ha of cotton growing land area is in Also discussed was the fundamental America and the Caribbean.
transition to organic.
In Brazil, drought in the northeast region
lingered on for a fifth year, but at last
gave some signs of ending. There was
a significant increase in the number
or organic cotton farmers in 2016/17
reaching 308 (up from 232 the previous
year), thanks in particular to the work

Q&A with Orlando Rivera
Orlando Rivera
Managing Director,
Bergman Rivera
Q What are the main changes

you have seen in the 30
taught them. Having crops with better
yields each year and also working with
years that Bergman Rivera rotation crops that are beneficial for soil
has been producing and health and translates into more income
promoting organic textiles? for them. One of our biggest challenges
is not having a market for cotton seed,
We have noticed that the final consumer
which represents 2/3 of the cotton
is getting more interested in the supply
branch weight.
chain and traceability behind the
products they purchase. Awareness
in fair social practices, sustainability Q What does the future hold
for Bergman Rivera?
and transparency have become an
important ally in the growth of organic Our main focus is to expand our organic
cotton. I think that we have educated cotton project as we are experiencing
our consumers and in these times when a high increase in demand. In order
information is open to everyone our to achieve this, we need to develop a
open doors policy is more valued. long term relationship with new groups
of farmers that are willing to work with
Q What achievements are

you most proud of, and
organic cotton.
Growing cotton, as you know, is very

have there been any big
challenges? challenging due to pricing and labor
demand in comparison to other crops. Photos: Bergman Rivera, Peru
We have to comment about our most Therefore growing our organic cotton
valued partners: the farmers. They have areas is a constant goal that we have.
learnt to appreciate the knowledge We also believe in strong partnerships
that our technical team gives them and with brands which is crucial to achieve
applied in their farms everything we’ve Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases
this vision and plan for the future. an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.

C&A Institute, Brazil Potential for Organic Cotton in Haiti
C&A Foundation has been working Ceará province. Starting in 2018, the Another promising initiative is launching In 2017, the project ran a field-study to
with ESPLAR and EMBRAPA Cotton foundation will also support DIACONIA in Haiti, where the Smallholder Farmers test the adaptation of different cotton
to expand production of Mocó organic in engaging 750 smallholder farmers Alliance, in partnership with Timberland, varieties, including some organic
cotton supply (multi-annual cotton on organic cotton cultivation across is re-introducing cotton production to cottonseed from Brazil and also varieties
variety, with long fiber that is more the states of Alagoas, Ceará, Paraíba, the country after 30 years. The goal is to from India and the USA. The study’s
resistant to drought). This initiative Pernambuco, Piauí, Rio Grande do chart new territory for sustainable cotton findings will inform the first commercial
currently engages 300 farmers in Norte and Sergipe. production by creating a business model planting by up to 500 farmers in 2018.
that also integrates organic cotton with
combating climate change, improving The project is also exploring the use of
food security and empowering women. blockchain technology to integrate data,
traceability, transparency and efficiency
into a smallholder supply chain in Haiti.
Photos: Left - ESPLAR/ C&A Foundation, Brazil; Right - Tatiana Cardeal for C&A Foundation, Brazil
The FAO’s South-South Cooperation

The FAO was also active in the region
in 2017 with its Strengthening the
Cotton Sector through South-South
Cooperation program, which generated
a partnership with Brazilian research
institute EMBRAPA and resources
such as a publication about Brazilian
experience in organic colored cotton
production.
Photo: ESPLAR/ C&A Foundation, Brazil Photo: Tatiana Cardeal for C&A Foundation, Brazil

Who’s doing what in Latin America & The Caribbean HAITI
Smallholder Farmers
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to Alliance
support organic cotton in this region. Social Enterprise
BRAZIL
COLOMBIA
Textile Exchange ESPLAR
SOCiLA Non-profit Non-profit
Non-profit
FAO (South-South EMBRAPA Algodão

Cooperation project) Research Institute
Non-profit
PERU
Instituto Lojas
Ecotton Renner
C&A Institute
Producer Organization Non-profit
Non-profit
Sustainable Fashion
Lab
Partnerships
ARGENTINA
Stay True
Social Enterprise


South &
Southeast Asia
Photo: C&A Foundation, India

South & Southeast Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION
0+100+S 100+0+S
PAKISTAN MYANMAR
In Pilot
Conversion Project
192,128 387,596 1.8%
Land (ha) over 2015/16
59,474 184,462 51%

100,000
99+1+S
INDIA
80,000
59,470 MT
1+99+S
60,000 THAILAND
India
Thailand
40,000
4 MT
20,000
0
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17

South & Southeast Asia
Pakistan
Thailand
India
MADHYA 192,060 2 66
1+99+S 47+53+S
RAJASTHAN PRADESH Organic Farmers
461 MT 27,968 MT 386,464 1,056 76

Organic Certified
Land (ha)
14+86+S
GUJARAT 59,470 0 4
Organic Cotton
Fiber (MT)
8,551 MT
172,180 12,283 no data
Organic In-Conversion
Land (ha)
11+89+S 26+74+S
MAHARASHTRA ODISHA
1% n/a 50%
Fiber Year-On-Year
6,735 MT 15,186 MT
51% 0% 0.004%
Cotton Production
1+99+S 1+99+S
KARNATAKA TELANGANA
1.0% 0% 0.4%
396 MT 173 MT Cotton Production

INDIA What Textile Exchange is doing
Organic farming in India is certified farmers in India joining organic cultivation

under the National Program for Organic systems. However, during this time,
Production (NPOP) and, as in other production of organic cotton in some Farm engagement
countries where organic cotton is a small areas was replaced by production
holder crop, it is carried out with the of other organic crops, as farmers Over the last year, Textile Exchange collecting data directly from 100 percent
aid of an Internal Control System (ICS). respond to changes in the market. has continued its push to strengthen its of India’s organic cotton farm projects
This allows producer groups to practice Additionally, a small but important portion data collection systems and processes, (82 percent visited in person), as well as
group certification, where individual of previously certified farmers have particularly in India, as part of its Data from APEDA and almost all certification
certification would be onerous and been demoted back to in-transition Investment Initiative, supported by the bodies. This data is cross-checked
costly. status as they resolve contamination C&A Foundation. As a result, we were between the various sources before
problems. As a result, India’s organic able to achieve even greater clarity by being reported.
In 2016/17, there were 1 million organic cotton production experienced an overall
farmers growing food and fiber certified decline during this period, but that trend
to NPOP by 28 accredited certification is now stabilizing. The decline between
bodies. The total land area certified was 2015/16 and 2016/17 was only 1.2 Global Organic Cotton Round Table
1.44 million ha, with the major crops percent, compared to 20 percent the
grown being sugarcane, oil seeds, previous season, and the future looks At the 2018 Organic Cotton Round Southeast Asia, to report out on and
cereals, millet, cotton, pulses, medicinal bright as strong growth is forecast over Table (OCRT) in Milan, Textile Exchange discuss progress/challenges with a
plants, tea, fruits, vegetables, spices, the next few years. is introducing a new “General Assembly” global audience, with the focus on
and coffee. In 2016/17, the total land approach that will provide space for enabling both visibility of all regions and
area of all organic cotton-growing ICS Thanks to the efforts of organic producer delegations from each organic cotton cross-learning between.
was 386,464 ha, of which it is estimated groups and organizations such as the producing region, including South &
that 43-45 percent (168,654 ha) was Organic Cotton Accelerator and the C&A
actually planted with organic cotton. Foundation, as well as the continued
engagement of brands and retailers at
Madhya Pradesh continued its significant the farm and supplier level, huge areas Industry engagement
leadership in terms of the amount of land are in conversion to organic.
of organic cotton fiber produced, Based on current projections, it is Textile Exchange continues to support meetings, such as those hosted by
accounting for 47 percent of India’s estimated that organic cotton production supply chain mapping for a number of OCA, C&A Foundation, brands and
total production, followed by Odisha will grow 35–40 percent by 2020. its members and, now with a full time retailers, certification bodies, and the
(26 percent), Gujarat (14 percent), and Country Program Manager based in Organic and Fair Cotton Secretariat
Maharashtra (11 percent). Bangalore, also actively participates (OFCS) of which we are an active
in many more regional events and member.
Between 2012/13 and 2016/17, there
has been growth in the number of

PAKISTAN
“
There was no certified production of is also a project by Pakistan’s Rural Climate change is a harsh reality now in India as elsewhere. While
organic cotton in Pakistan in 2016/17. Business Development Center (RBDC) everyone is impacted, farmers suffer the most especially in rainfed
However, there are over 12,283 ha and Lok Sanjh Foundation that is agricultural scenarios. If we want cotton in the future to be available
growing cotton in conversion to organic initiating the organic certification process to the industry and not transform into a luxury, we will need assured
as part of the C&A Foundation/ WWF for its cotton production this year. Read
supply chains that are nurtured, with farmers being taught the skills to
project that is due to reach certification more about these initiatives on page 63.
adapt. Needless to say concerted efforts to improve seed R&D and
in the 2019/20 harvest year. There
seed availability, especially for the organic sector, are key. The industry
needs to recognize and act upon this gap in a collaborative manner,
THAILAND as it has significant implications for the future.
Prabha Nagarajan
The Green Net Cooperative, first river to grown organic cotton. Thanks Organic Cotton Expert, India
introduced in last year’s report and to the organic and fair trade scheme
Thailand’s only known organic cotton implemented by Green Net, farmers CottonConnect’s activities in India
producer, is part of the Rim Khong receive a good price for their cotton.
Organic Agriculture Project. The Green Net recently supported the Together with C&A Foundation, supply chain partners are collaborating
Cooperative had a successful year in transition from a third-party certification CottonConnect is promoting to create a robust supply network, in an
2016/17, with record-high yields as a system to a local Participatory Guarantee organic cotton production, training effort to secure a traceable and reliable
result of cool weather and plentiful water System (PGS), which works well for cotton farmers in Gujarat, Madhya organic cotton supply for its brands.
during the growing season. This led to a these farmers. Existing customers Pradesh, Rajasthan and Maharashtra. A case study exploring the learnings
growth in production from 2.8 to 4.2 MT having trust in Green Net’s PGS and CottonConnect also runs sustainable from this pilot will be released soon,
organic cotton fiber, which was grown therefore have continued to purchase organic projects in Madhya Pradesh, and is intended to be a useful resource
on 76 ha. the cotton, and new customers are also enabling cotton farmers to connect for companies seeking to bring supply
showing interest, drawn in by the fact with global supply chains and providing chain partners together and build
Though a small-scale project, 66 that the supply chain is very localized. gender training to women.Transparency connected supply chains.
traditional fishing families benefit from the Ginning is carried out in the village, and and verification is important in cotton
additional income bought in by utilizing cotton bales are then transported to a production so CottonConnect
their small plots of land alongside the factory 500km away for processing. developed the traceability software
tool called Tracebale, which provides
reassurance of sustainable cotton
supply.
CottonConnect is also now working with

Kering on a project in India in which all
Photo: CottonConnect, India

Q&A with Arun Ambatipudi
Together, individual ChetCo companies ChetCo now has nearly 25 brands, possible by uptake commitments from
can effectively address, and continue to spanning 11 countries and four brands and manufactures.
Arun Ambatipudi
improve upon, the factors that underpin continents, including two new brands -
Executive Director,
Chetna Organic
both the supply sustainability and
impact value of their cotton. Namely:
No Nasties and Soul Space - selling on
the domestic market in India.
Q What does the future hold?
the economic stability and resiliency, Both Chetna and ChetCo will act as
environmental health, and social welfare best practice teaching/ learning institutes
What are you most proud
Q
benefit that farming communities need
Can you tell us a bit about the for growing high-quality organic cotton
ChetCo Model?
Q of that these initiatives have
achieved over the years?
for producer organizations and emerging
sourcing coalitions around the world. A
over the long term. partnership has just been announced
Access to finance. Chetna has received with the West Africa Sourcing Coalition,
The Chetna Coalition (ChetCo) Together, ChetCo members agree to
13 Croles (~$2 million) working capital with others to come.
collectivizes SME brands and participate in, but are not limited to,
finance with collateral of less than
manufactures for effective supply chain four categories of cooperative-action
10 percent this year. This was made
risk management at the cotton source: mandates to make year-on-year
the organic farming community. improvements to the sustainability,
resiliency, and value of their
ChetCo acts as a coalition to grow,
marketplace, their coalition, and their
scale, and organize their communal
farming communities.
demand to reliably off-take the full
community harvest volume each
season. Members act collaboratively to Q What were the highlights of
2017?
produce value and reduce risk. Each
This year, our value chain coalition
season, members grow the value of
ChetCo had 70 percent uptake against
cotton, their cooperative, and their
production of Chetna Organic’s nearly
farming community. The members
8,000 smallholder cotton farmers. This
work together in efforts to continuously
has grown from 15 percent prior to
enhance the quality, integrity, traceability,
ChetCo’s formation five years ago.
and transparency of their fiber. At the
same time, members send strong Approximately INR 5,500 ($76) was paid
market messages and support per quintal (100 kg), with a premium
sustainable community development of INR 250-600 ($3.47 - $8.32). An Photo: Chetna Organic, India
through efforts in seed purchase, additional INR 176,000 ($2,580) per
healthcare, education, and livelihood quintal was paid in Fairtrade premiums Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases
initiatives for farmers. on around 3,000 MT of seed cotton. an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.

Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Secretariat, Madhya Pradesh C&A Foundation’s organic cotton program in India
The Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Key developments in 2017-18 include: The C&A Foundation’s organic cotton be complemented by additional efforts
Secretariat (OFCS) in India, incubated program in India adopts a hotspot by Solidairdad on addressing the
by C&A Foundation, having now entered • Approval from the government approach to improve the livelihood of water stress challenge in the region by
its third year in Madhya Pradesh, has to set up India’s first center of smallholder organic cotton farmers with promoting micro-irrigation and rainwater
been able to successfully show that excellence on organic cotton a vision to contribute towards resilient management solutions.
the whole is greater than the sum research at Madhya Pradesh’s communities and landscapes.
of its parts. Active participation of leading State Agriculture University. Collectively, at present, the farmers
its diverse stakeholders in Madhya In this journey, C&A Foundation has supported by C&A Foundation and
• Commitment by the government supported four partners – Action partners cultivate 23,378 ha of cotton
Pradesh, including seed companies, to establish at least 100 organic
farm groups, ginners and spinning for Social Advancement, Aga Khan area yielding 6,977 MT lint certified and
cotton clusters across Madhya Foundation, CottonConnect and 3,224 MT lint in conversion. The goal
mills; representatives of research and Pradesh.
academia; policy makers; as well as WWF-India - in training and certifying is to help establish independent self-
brands and retailers has resulted in • Allocation of a separate auction over 34,000 in-conversion cotton sufficient farmer collectives (comprising
leapfrog advancements for organic platform for organic produce in farmers, mainly in the hotspot of of organic cotton farmers) in these
cotton in the the state. This has state-operated agricultural markets. southern Madhya Pradesh (also known hotspots that can engage directly in
significant implications for the global as the Nimar region). In 2018, the the organic cotton supply chain. As the
organic cotton industry, considering that • Deepened industry-academia Foundation also started a program foundation supports a holistic multi-
nearly a quarter of the world’s organic collaboration on non-GM seed with Solidaridad in a second intended cropping landscape approach to organic
cotton is cultivated in Madhya Pradesh. breeding research. hotspot in the state of Maharashtra with cotton farming, these farmer collectives
the eventual aim of engaging 10,000 also stand to gain additional income
On May 8, 2018, C&A Foundation and farmers in organic cotton cultivation. from accessing markets for other
the Government of Madhya Pradesh The organic cotton program here will organic produce.
co-organised a day long celebration on
organic cotton called Cotton Trailblazers.
This event, dedicated to celebrating
Madhya Pradesh’s global leadership
in organic cotton production, brought
together organic cotton farmers, civil
society actors, government and industry
representatives on one platform. The
event has fuelled many conversations
between stakeholders, including farm
groups and brands that shall further the
cause of organic cotton cultivation.
Photo: C&A Foundation, India Photo: C&A Foundation, India

Second phase of Seeding the Green Future bioRe’s non-GMO seed program
“Seeding the Green Future,” a project participatory research model of this As the availability of GMO-free cotton the project expects to distribute and sell
of the Research Institute of Organic project helps to empower female seed in India remains a big challenge, the multiplied seeds to bioRe® farmers
Agriculture (FiBL) is entering into its and male farmers through enhanced the bioRe® Foundation and its partners and other interested farm groups.
second phase of Green Cotton, collaboration with researchers, breeders, conducted their own seed research
co-funded by Mercator Foundation seed companies, advisors, and the at bioRe® in India. Now, after eight The successful research at bioRe® in
Switzerland and the Organic Cotton textile industry. Current partners include years of extensive work, the project has India involves the active participation
Accelerator, which will run from 2018- Chetna Organic, Pratibha Syntex, completed the required multi-location of farmers, and is focusing particularly
2022. CottonConnect, Action for Social trials to sustain its results and is on the on the evaluation of cotton genotypes
Advancement, University of Gwalior, verge of having new, GMO-free cotton under organic conditions. The seed
The overall goal of this participatory University of Akola, and the Center genotypes for release in 2018. evaluation program is currently in its
breeding project is to improve the for Sustainable Agriculture. Additional third phase, and is collaborating closely
livelihood of organic cotton growers funding would enable us to engage The multiplication of selected seeds is with Dr. S.S. Patil from the University of
through improved non-GM cotton additional farmers in other cotton already in progress. Over the next year, Agriculture Dharward.
cultivars with genetic diversity for growing region of India.
adaptation to changing climate. The
Photo: Green Cotton, India Photo: bioRe India

C&A Foundation study on cotton cultivation systems in Madhya
Pradesh
While the impacts of different cotton systems- BCI, Conventional & Organic Environmental Impacts: Socio-economic Impacts:
farming systems on farmers, their in Khargone district of Madhya Pradesh,
livelihood and the environment may be India. • Compared to conventional cotton, • Farmers often learn of organic
broadly understood, there is lack of organic cotton shows lower cotton through social networks.
credible data to support how smallholder The socio-economic study covered negative environmental impacts.
about 1,200 farming households from • Farmers largely perceive organic
cotton farmers are impacted. As a • The acidification potential for farming in terms of the potential
step forward to address this gap, C&A each of the cultivation systems. The
environmental study which was a Life organic cotton is 22 times more for economic benefits.
Foundation commissioned two separate conventional cotton compared to
but interrelated studies – one to assess Cycle Assesment of 1 metric tonne seed • Exclusive organic cotton cultivation
cotton, covered 100 households from organic cotton.
the socio-economic impacts, and is less likely to use pesticides, but
another to assess the environmental each of the cultivation systems. • The global warming potential for some farmers self-reported use -
impacts of three cotton cultivation Some key highlights of the study were: organic cotton is 50 percent lesser this needs to be validated through
than conventional cotton. soil testing.
• The fresh/blue water consumption • Organic cotton farmers are more

for organic cotton is 41 percent less likely to be in debt and have higher
than conventional cotton. debts than conventional cotton
farmers.
• In 2016-17, 49 percent of the

organic cotton farmers made profit
from agriculture; however, on an
average both conventional and
organic farmers made losses. Thus,
it is important to create incentives to
motivate farmers to continue cotton
farming.
• Organic farmers reported

significantly lower yields than
conventional counterparts.
Photo: C&A Foundation, India Photo: C&A Foundation, India

RESET for regenerative organic in India Sense Organics initiates organic cotton project in Myanmar
MetaWear and Grameena Vikas for RESET regenerative organic “in After more than a decade of supporting holder farms certified to organic GOTS
Kendram Society for Rural Development conversion” cotton. Organic Cotton farming in India, three with the plan to double each year for
have co-created RESET, a program that years ago, Sense Organics and five years. By putting farmers first in
targets tribal cotton farmers in India’s • 2018 | Support secured from Armstrong Spinning Mills began to this program, early indications are that
cotton belt, supporting them and their Control Union, the Textile Exchange, develop an organic cotton program in income levels will increase by at least 25
communities as they adopt regenerative and the Rodale Institute to develop central Myanmar. While the country has percent and progress will be measured
organic farming practices. RESET aims the first-ever Regenerative Organic many challenges, the plight of the cotton against the Sustainable Development
to make farming a win-win-win for the In Conversion farming standard to farming communities is considerable Goals while the lint price will still be
environment, society, and economy. As be piloted on RESET farms during with no access to high value markets, competitive with global price of organic
the first vertically-integrated regenerative the 2018/2019 season. extension services or quality inputs. cotton.
program, RESET is uniquely positioned • 2018 | Guaranteed demand from In addition to this, the cotton price
to have lasting impact in these three fluctuates extremely aggressively and With over a quarter of the world’s
USA and EU markets, ensuring population on its borders, an available
areas. price premiums to farmers. with no minimum support price, the
business case for farmers has been very 15,000 acres of rainfed land without
Highlights of the pilot program include: • 2018 | Initial investment and weak keeping many trapped in a cycle GMO contamination and ready for
operations support from the of poverty. organic GOTS certification, a huge
• 2016-2017 | Two successful pilot willingness from farmers, eager to sew
seasons representing 88 tribal government of Andhra Pradesh.
Today, the project has secured financial the benefits of organic cotton farming
farmers receiving price premiums support from C&A Foundation and into their communities, close trade links
the UK’s Department for International with India, Bangladesh and China and
Development, with technical support one of the fastest growing garment
from Peterson and certification and industries in the world.
compliance from Control Union. So
Pure Myanmar, a Myanmar registered To learn more, please contact Kirsten
subsidiary of SO Germany is now Weihe - Keidel.
conducting seed trials on Government
and small holder farms covering 50
acres in organic conditions. With a focus
on seed development and multiplication,
extension services, trade finance,
multi-cropping, market access and full
item level traceability, next year they aim
to plant over 1500 acres under small
Photo: RESET, India
Photo: Sense Organics, Myanmar

C&A Foundation’s organic cotton program in Pakistan SIA Foundation Pakistan
Imran Asgher, SIA Foundation Pakistan
In Pakistan, C&A Foundation is Balochistan. This greenfield program is
testing the feasibility of organic cotton galvanising interest from the government SIA Foundation Pakistan was founded by like-minded textile professionals aware of
production in the world’s fourth largest on creating enablers for organic cotton the upcoming challenges being faced by the textile industry in Pakistan.
cotton producing countries. The including supply of non-GM seed, from
The Foundation’s Organic Cotton Cultivation (OCC) program launched in 2017, with
foundation is currently supporting 4000 many reputed research institutions,
a pilot project initially for multiplication of non-GMO organic seeds for large scale
farmers in Balochistan province to such as Lasbella University for research
organic cotton cultivation in the country. This pilot, which is located in the village
transition to organic cotton production on organic pesticides; Central Cotton
Veyaro, Lesbela district of Balochistan, is set to expand up to 5,000 ha over the next
on 19,895 hectares yielding 9,143 MT Research Institute on non-GM seed
two years.
lint. The program is implemented by breeding and from supply chain actors.
WWF- Pakistan in collaboration with the SIA Foundation is committed to train around 2,500 farmers for organic cotton
Agriculture Extension Department (AED), cultivation and expand gradually over the coming five years. The Foundation
will support farmers through their first, second and third year conversion from
conventional to organic certification. The aim of the expansion is to convert 6,000
Progress for Pakistan’s Rural Business Development Center
cotton farmers to organic cultivation.
Dr. Shahid Zia, Managing Director, RBDC
SIA Foundation achieved a key milestone by establishing a partnership with
Agriculture Extension Department (AED) of Balochistan within the first year of its
The Rural Business Development Additionally, RBDC has been partnered foundation. A memodrandum of understanding has been signed to promote organic
Center (RBDC) in Pakistan continues to by Saif Group (a national company cultivation within Balochistan with support of the AED team on the ground.
promote organic cotton production in dealing with cotton processing and
the country. Though lacking sufficient trade) to support organic cotton SIA Foundation is also committed to planting neem trees in targeted project areas.
funding to scale up the project, some production in this area, with Saif Group Neem is a natural pest deterant used to minimize pest attacks on the cotton crop.
recent developments have raised having agreed to buy all organic cotton
hopes. and in-transition cotton from the farmers.
With their support, RBDC is organizing
The research project that was initiated farmer groups for training who plan to
by RBDC with Government of Punjab in grow organic cotton next year.
2017 went very well. The cotton varieties
that farmers in the area generally use
to produce organic cotton are of short
staple length but, in this research,
varieties with reasonable staple
length (29 to 31) have been grown
successfully. Photo: SIA Foundation, Pakistan

Who’s doing what in South & Southeast Asia
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to support organic cotton in this region.
PAKISTAN
INDIA
C&A Foundation
Non-profit Textile Exchange Chetna Organic
Non-profit Farmers Association
(COFA)
WWF Pakistan Industry Association
Non-profit Organic & Fair
Cotton Secretariat
(OFCS) Chetna Coalition
Partnerships (ChetCo)
RBDC
Partnerships
Service Company
Organic Cotton
Accelerator (OCA) C&A Foundation
SIA Foundation Non-profit Non-profit
Non-profit
CottonConnect APEDA
MYANMAR Social Enterprise Governmental
Organization
Sense Organic
Service Company bioRe India
THAILAND Non-profit Pre-Organic Cotton
Partnerships
Government seed Green Net Cooperative
development program Non-profit
Governmental
Organization


United States
of America
Photo: Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative, USA

United States of America REGIONAL PRODUCTION
1+99+S
NORTH CAROLINA
0.65 MT
58 8,369 26%
Land (ha) over 2015/16
4,529 496 4%
5-YEAR PRODUCTION TREND
5,000
4,000
7+93+S 93+7+S
NEW MEXICO TEXAS
3,000
USA
2,000
307 MT 4,221 MT
1,000
0 Adjustment: Please note that the production data reported for the United States
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 in the 2017 OCMR was incorrect, and has been retrospectively adjusted.

In 2016, 8,369 hectares were planted Fifteen other Texas farmers grew 422
with organic cotton in the USA. This MT on 840 ha in the High Plains area,
USA
yielded approximately 20,400 bales of representing ten percent of the country’s
organic cotton, equivalent to 4,529 MT total organic cotton growing land area.
of fiber.
In New Mexico, approximately 307 MT of
The Texas Organic Cotton Marketing organic cotton fiber (seven percent of the 58
Cooperative (TOCMC), a co-op of 35 national total) was grown on 458 ha by Organic Farmers
family farmers based in the West Texas three farming families, two of which grew
High Plains, grew 84 percent of all the Pima cotton. In North Carolina, a small
organic cotton harvested in the USA amount (0.65 MT) of upland organic 8,369
Organic Certified
in 2016. TOCMC grew 17,055 bales cotton fiber was grown on 1.2 ha. Land (ha)
(3,799 MT) from 14,967 harvested acres
TOCMC, in particular, continues to
(6,057 ha) for an average of 1.1 bale per
transition additional acreage into organic 4,529
acre. Approximately 2,510 acres were
production, planting organic cotton Organic Cotton
lost to harsh weather, including hail and Fiber (MT)
on 1,225 transitional acres (496 ha) in
wind.
2016. Several other High Plains farmers
have limited acreage in transition. 1,793
Organic In-Conversion
Land (ha)
26%
Fiber Year-On-Year
4%
Cotton Production
0.1%
USA-based Textile Organic Share of National
Cotton Production
Exchange members
educated USA senators
about organic fiber and
textiles.
Photo: On the Mark PR

Comparing fiber characteristics and price of organic and
conventional USA cotton
Fiber characteristics Price

The quality of TOCMC’s organic cotton The cotton plant yields two crops – fiber
is very similar to the non-organic cotton and cottonseed. Organic cottonseed
grown in the area when it comes sales, for use as dairy feed, is a vital
to length, micronaire, strength, and part of the financial equation for organic
uniformity. For example, for the 2016 cotton farmers, and expanding organic
crop, TOCMC’s average staple length dairies are eager to use it as a fiber- and
was 29.3 mm compared to a 28.8 protein-rich feed for cattle.
mm average for all the cotton in the
In Texas, the price for the 2016 TOCMC
area. Color grade is the only quality
organic cotton crop was $1.10-1.35 per
characteristic for which the organic
pound of lint fiber. For the 2017 crop,
cotton tends to run slightly lower. This
the price increased to $1.20-1.45 per
is a result of the fiber usually having
pound. The USA average per pound
to remain in the field on the stalk for
price for 2016 crop conventional cotton
an extra 4-6 weeks while waiting for a
was approximately $0.68 per pound.
freeze to defoliate the plants to facilitate
mechanical harvest. In New Mexico, the price of organic
pima was approximately $2.10 per
New Mexico’s long staple pima cotton
pound in both 2016 and 2017. The
had a staple length of approximately 36-
price of upland Acala was approximately
40 mm, while the upland Acala variety
$1.30/pound. In 2017, the price for
was 31-34 mm.
conventional pima was approximately
The average length for North Carolina $1.20 per pound and $0.75 per pound
white upland cotton fiber was 31 mm. for upland cotton.
The average organic cottonseed prices
for the Lubbock, Texas, area for both the
2016 and 2017 crops was $500 per ton
versus conventional cottonseed prices
of $242 for 2016 and $193 for 2017.
Photo: Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative, USA
Photo: Dosi and Norma Alvarez

Texas A&M AgriLife’s cotton breeding program What Textile Exchange is doing
In 2017, the cotton breeding program agronomic performance and/or fiber

at Texas A&M AgriLife Lubbock quality to these same standards.
Research and Extension Center (LREC)
Collaborating to expand the USA market
The germplasm lines were developed
released two germplasm lines under
and tested on organic cotton farms Textile Exchange worked closely with of social media updates from on-site
development for several years - CA
(including those in TOCMC) with funding the Organic Trade Association in 2017 presentations, enabled the many who
4005 and CA 4006 - that can be
from USDA’s Organic Agriculture to help raise the visibility of organic fiber could not attend to nonetheless follow
used to breed cultivars with host plant
Research and Extension Initiative. The among both consumers and regulators. the event using #LiveOrganic.
resistance to thrips insects that cause
resistant lines provided an average of 37
damage to young cotton seedlings, In May, 2017, Textile Exchange, TOCMC In October, 2017, as part of the Textile
percent reduction in thrips damage and
especially in organic cotton where organic farmers, and representatives Exchange annual conference, its USA-
an OMRI-approved spinosad insecticide
systemic insecticide seed treatments of leading organic cotton and organic based leading companies visited key
showed the same average level of
are not used. Young seedlings grown wool fashion and home textile brands senators’ offices in Washington, DC,
damage reduction. Together, spinosad
from the seed of both newly developed participated in an Organic Trade to educate them about organic fiber
insecticide and resistant lines gave 80
lines exhibited substantially improved Association-hosted “Live Organic from farming and the organic textile sector
percent protection from thrips feeding
resistance to thrips feeding injury at the Farm to Home” event in New York City. and urged Congress to strongly support
injury compared to standard cultivars
field level compared with commercial The focus was on educating consumers organic agriculture as they began Farm
with no spinosad. New cultivars available
cultivar standards adapted for the Texas and the media that “organic is not just Bill deliberations.
for farmers to test on organic cotton
High Plains. They are also comparable for eating anymore.” A steady stream
farms could be available by 2020.
(and in some cases, superior) in overall
Participants at
the Organic
Trade Association
#LiveOrganic event in
New York City.
Photo: Organic Trade Association, USA
Photo: Dr Jane Dever, Professor and Cotton Breeder, Texas A&M AgriLife Research

Q&A with Sally Fox
Sally Fox to withstand soil born diseases on their For the brown color family, fiber length
Plant Breeder, Owner, own and out grow and out produce pest improvements have been achieved, but
pressure. those resulted in reduction of yield, so
Vreseis, Ltd.
I continue to work on intensity of color
Brooks, California
The big challenge was getting the fibers coupled with fiber length improvements
produced to be long, strong, and fine while not compromising yield.
enough for machine spinning. And
Q What is Vreseis? gardens, that had not been selected

for response to ag chemicals, that I
capable of being machine picked. And
whose color did not wash out when
Major improvements on color stability
with the reds/ochre color pallet have
stood a chance of being able to develop being laundered. occurred, along with significant
Vreseis is the longest running organic varieties that could be successfully be agronomic advances such as non-
cotton seed breeding program that I grown organically. The very first organic cotton grown here photoperiodic cultivars. Now I am
am aware of, and I continue to make in the USA was my cotton that I bred working on fiber length improvements of
progress every year. I started breeding My first and second generation of and it got the conversation going about that color family. In 2016, I was able to
naturally colorful cotton in 1982 (and varieties did just that. In the early 1990s, cotton. And how we might approach it’s increase seed stock of a line in this color
formed Vreseis Limited in 1986 to fund we had thousands of acres of these farming more sustainably. But naturally family that I hope to find the funds to
this research by selling the cotton itself). cottons being grown in Arizona and colorful cottons did not stop with the increase further soon.
south Texas organically. These are parts farming, it asked the textile industry how
Why bother breeding of the USA whose normal white cottons could it have a better sustainability report
Q What’s the future for
colored cotton?
Q colored cotton... doesn’t
everyone want white
received more than 11 applications
of pesticides per season, not even
card.
What progress have you

cotton? counting all the seed treatments and Reduction in dye use by utilizing their
Well, my idea originally was that these

defoliants. Q made with breeding the
different colors?
natural colors for khakis, etc. and by
using at a base to reduce the amount
cottons that are naturally pest and With naturally colorful cottons, there is of dye required to create rich vibrant
disease resistant would open the door no issue with staining of the leaves when For each color, different types of dyed colors in cotton textiles. Achievable
to farming cotton organically. That machine picking, so defoliants are not improvements are called for. because these cottons have tannin
the white cotton varieties offered to even required. Even the farmers who within the fiber which is a dye mordant. It
farmers worldwide were all bred to be were not growing organically i.e. - used With the green cottons, fiber length and draws dyes- both natural and chemical-
dependent upon chemical help from normal fertilizers - did not need to use strength have been solved, but yield and inside the fiber and thus less dye of any
farmers. Everything from fertilizers to pesticides and so it seemed like the other agronomic issues, along with color kind is needed.
pest management they were selected logical way to get organic cotton going. manipulation using sustainable materials
to do best with. By breeding with these You start with varieties that are able to in the yarn and or fabric finishing, remain But more importantly to me is the fire
cottons that were only being grown in forage the soil for their nutrients, able targets for further exploration. resistance that the tannin within the

Q&A with Sally Fox
brown color imparts. These I have been funding all this

cottons are in the realm of research all these years by
wool in terms of flammability. selling the cotton itself and
They do combust, but selling the products of this
with less vigor. And this cotton. Thanks to Itochu
is significant. When I ran and Dr Kondo, I am still in
tests as little as 13 percent business. Thanks to my mail
brown cotton mixed with order customers who buy
white rendered some fabrics socks and yarns and fabrics,
passable on some flammability I have hung on. By myself, on
tests for certain uses, such as my biodynamic farm. But, I
fleeces. want to train younger people
in my method of organic
My current goal is to form a breeding of cotton of all
non-profit that gets funded colors- yes I also breed the
by industry to get good white cottons- and see this
foundation seedstock to cotton offered as a possibility
interested groups around the to designers all over the world
world so that they can breed as the integral part of the
washable, spinnable, pickable sustainable textile option that it
naturally disease and pest most definitely is.
resistant cottons for their own
areas.
Photos: Top - Paige Green for Vreseis; Bottom - Vreseis, USA
Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases

Who’s doing what in the USA?
This map highlights some of the key organizations working to
NORTH AMERICA
Textile Exchange
Non-profit
Organic Trade
Association
Industry Association
Texas A&M Agrilife

Research
Research Institute
Texas Organic
Cotton Marketing
Cooperative
(TOCMC)


Standards &
Certification

Organic textiles certification
Certified facilities*
GOTS OCS TOP 10 COUNTRIES USING OCS & GOTS

IC BLEN ANIC 1
AN RG GOTS has certified units in 62 countries & OCS in 40 countries
00
ORG
DE
O
D
con
con
rd
rd
en en
da
da
t stan t stan
t
t
5,024
(2017)
Other Countries Italy Germany Turkey Bangladesh China South Korea
766 • 238 307 480 • 49 445 • 400 534 • 730 292 • 692 69 • 207
4,642
3,663 3,814 (2016) 3,661 3,643
(2014) (2015)
(2016) (2017)
3,170 3,126
3,085 (2014) (2015)
(2013) 2,516
(2013)
5,024 (h8%) 3,643 (i0.5%)

Certified Facilities 2017 Certified Facilities 2017
1 India : h11% 1 India : h3%

2 Bangladesh : h61% 2 Bangladesh : i0.4%
3 Germany :h38% 3 China : h14%
4 Turkey : h5% 4 Turkey : h20%
5 Italy : h57% 5 South Korea : h2%
6 China : h9% 6 Pakistan : i6%
7 Pakistan : h13% 7 Japan : i42%
8 Portugal : h88% 8 Germany : h17%
9 USA : h87% 9 Hong Kong : i45%
10 South Korea : h13% 10 Sri Lanka : i21% USA Portugal Pakistan India Sri Lanka Hong Kong Japan
99 180 194 • 165 1,658 • 933 37 41 151
*Please note that the figures detailed on this page reflect the number of facilities certified to produce GOTS/OCS products in 2016, which may differ from the number that actually produced GOTS/OCS certified products in that year.

Organic textiles certification
Textile Exchange’s Shared Measurement System
Organic cotton is grown within a rotation to the final product, with GOTS also
Information has always been core to all of Textile Exchange’s data systems
system that builds soil fertility, protects addressing textile processing.
how Textile Exchange delivers value, and that links producers, suppliers and
biodiversity, and is grown without the use
the organization was the first to collect brands to provide a holistic and multi-
of any synthetic chemicals or GMOs. In 2017, there were 3,643 and 5,024
and report on organic cotton production dimensional view of impacts in preferred
Organic cotton is subject to the national facilities certified to OCS and GOTS,
data in 2005. Both our data collection fiber and material and paves a path for
laws governing organic production respectively. Following an impressive
and reporting mechanisms have the standards continual improvement.
including the EEC Organic Regulation double digit growth of 21 percent in
transformed significantly over the past The new Central Database System
834/2007 in Europe, USDA National 2016, the number OCS certified facilities
decade. Our data collection process is described on the next page will provide
Organic Program (NOP) in the United dropped by 0.5 percent in 2017.
now verified according to GRI principles the traceability backbone to the SMS.
States, and the National Programme Facilities certified to GOTS grew by eight
and brand and retailer data is also now
for Organic Production (NPOP) in India. percent, with the most significant growth
collected through our recognized online Merging data with potential collaborators
Voluntary standards, the Global Organic rates coming from Portugal, the USA,
benchmark program, from which we on key impact indicators, such as
Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Organic Bangladesh and Italy. See the previous
provide valuable insights to participating water and carbon, will enable an
Content Standard (OCS), provide chain page for a more detailed overview.
brands and the wider sector on PFM unprecedented view of how the
of custody assurance from the farm
market size, demand, supply and community is doing in areas that matter
impacts. most. Leveraging our current work on
SDG mapping will further allow the
IFOAM Motion 61 passed: fiber production and processing for Textile Exchange is introducing a Shared sector to report on impact footprint
organic textiles to be covered by appropriate standards Measurement System (SMS) that will within the universally recognized SDG
essentially be the connected network of framework.
In November 2017, a Motion was should cover the whole supply chain (as
passed by IFOAM - Organics is the case with food) and that stating
International for: “Textiles advertised/ the organic fiber content (“contains X GMO testing method project conceptualised by GOTS
labelled ‘organic’ and made with organic percent organic cotton”), through for
fibers produced according to recognized example Textile Exchange’s Organic GOTS has initiated and conceptualized that at the end of this, we will have a
standards (e.g. IFOAM Family of Content Standard, is a relevant step. a project to determine testing protocols clear idea of which tests work, what
Standards), should also be processed for GM presence in cotton fiber and could be a standardized test protocol
to a standard (endorsed by IFOAM - IFOAM - Organics International said it downstream products. This project and where in the supply chain these
Organics International) that prohibits would communicate this to stakeholders is being funded by Organic Cotton tests are reliable. It is expected that
hazardous and residual inputs according and engage with them for the Accelerator (OCA). Ideally, it will lead these conclusions will be of immense
to a clear procedure.” widespread adoption of a whole-chain- to an ISO standard. It is expected that value to the entire organic cotton supply
approach (chain of custody) to labelling the exercise may take between 12 and chain by removing uncertainly among
IFOAM - Organics International organic textile products. 16 months depending on the scope test laboratories and test results.
acknowledged that such standards accepted by the ISO. We feel confident

Central Database System
Development timeline - Phase 1
The Central Database System (CDS) • Provide opportunity for traceability May Project Initiation
is a collaborative technical platform and transparency of material source
for the chain of custody of GOTS and and supply chain member data for June – August Requirements Definition
Textile Exchange standards. Developed stakeholders. June – August System Configuration
in partnership between the two
organizations, the CDS integrates scope The current review of the organic September Preliminary CB and Supplier Testing
certificates, transaction certificates, standards for backward traceability from
and volume reconciliation across all gin to farm, to be incorporated into the October Stakeholder Calls
supply chain actors for Global Organic CDS, will further connect and reconcile
the national organic farm standardsand October 2 CB Webinar
Textile Standard (GOTS) and Organic
Content Standard (OCS) in organic, as OCS. October 21 CB Feedback (Textile Exchange Conference)
well as Content Claim Standard (CCS),
What does this mean? October 24 CDS Preview (Textile Exchange Conference)
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Global
Recycled Standard (GRS), Responsible • CDS will be the single source December Acceptance Test
Down Standard (RDS) and Responsible system for verification of scope
Wool Standard (RWS) in other preferred certificates and transaction December Further Configuration & Testing
fiber and materials. certificates for GOTS and Textile
January 1 CDS Release (Pilots)
Exchange standards.
The objectives of the CDS are to:
• GOTS and Textile Exchange
• Increase efficiency, traceability, and
standard licensees, as well as
transparency of certification and its How to be involved?
buyers and sellers of a transaction
related activities by providing greater
certificate, can check scope and • LEARN: Find out more about the development of CDS and how it affects your
access to certification data;
transaction certificate profile and organization.
• Prevent fraud for certificates and validity in CDS.
• ENGAGE: Be a part of the CDS Working Group to understand and help shape
duplicate organic orders by creating
CDS will be the single source system the development of the system.
a single source for verification and
for verification of scope certificates
volume reconciliation; • SPONSOR: The CDS is an initiative to strengthen the integrity of the organic and
and transaction certificates for GOTS
and Textile Exchange standards where other preferred fiber and materials. Your contribution will help our continuous
• Provide standards’ impact data for
standard licensees as well as buyers effort for better traceability, transparency and reporting of these materials.
standard scheme owners;
and sellers of a scope and transaction
To find out more, email: Lee@TextileExchange.org.
• Provide public facing data about certificate can check for profile and
certified companies; and validity in CDS.

Methodology &
Disclaimer

2018 methodology & disclaimer
Textile Exchange is in the unique position of accredited Certification Body (CB). Organic In-Transition Land: In-Transition Land refers to and August 2017 (i.e. covering 2 ICAC years),
being the only organization currently reporting cotton growing practices may vary slightly land that is undergoing the required three-year the data is allocated to the first year (e.g.
on the global organic cotton supply and trends from country to country but common to transition period from conventional to organic 2016). In countries, such as USA, where the
on an annual basis. all is the avoidance of the use of toxic and as required by all organic standards. While no cotton is picked in October 2017 to December
persistent synthetic agrichemicals (pesticides toxic chemicals are allowed during this time, 2017, data for the previous calendar year (e.g.
Our priority is to ensure the accuracy and and fertilizers) and genetically modified seeds. the transition period is required to eliminate October 2016 – December 2016) is reported.
quality of our data, management systems, and remaining residues left in the soil from past
reporting. To that end, with the sponsorship Seed cotton: Seed cotton is the raw cotton conventional practices. Land undergoing the Cotton Producing Countries/Production:
of C&A Foundation, 2018 marks a milestone including fiber and seeds (i.e. pre-ginning first, second and third year of this transition In 2018, Textile Exchange’s systematic
for Textile Exchange in achieving independent cotton). period is referred to as Year 1 (Y1), Year collection, review and reporting of organic
third-party verification on its organic cotton 2 (Y2) and Year 3 (Y3) In-Transition Land, cotton production covers more than 95
data processes to the Global Reporting Cotton Fiber/Lint: Cotton fiber/lint is cotton respectively. percent of overall cotton production volume
Initiative (GRI) standard and Accountability that has gone through the ginning process to and 50 percent cotton producing countries.
Principles for the Organic Cotton Market remove seeds, leaves and casings (i.e. post- Yield: Measured in kilograms per hectare In all, 32 of the 64 cotton producing countries
Report (OCMR). ginning cotton). (kg/ha), Yield refers the amount of cotton have been identified as potentially relevant
produced (in kilograms) for each hectare of for organic cotton production and covered
The following sections sets out the abridged Cotton In-Conversion: For cotton to be land farmed. Yield is typically measured at two by an independently verified systematic data
methodology used to collect, analyze and certified organic, it must be grown organically levels: Seed Cotton Yield (i.e. pre-ginning) and process. This identification process has been
crosscheck the data on the production of on land that has undergone a three-year Cotton Fiber Yield (i.e. post-ginning). based on data collected, publicly available
organic cotton fiber in 2018. transition period from conventional practices records, interviews and correspondence with
(note the conversion period may be reduced Metrics (ha, kg, mt, m, b): This report uses the various stakeholders.
in certain circumstances). While no toxic metric system for measurements and units
Key terms & definitions have been abbreviated as follows. Different Standards (Cultivation): Textile Exchange
chemicals are allowed during this time, the
Organic Cotton: Organic Cotton is cotton that transition period is required to eliminate local units are converted into international, applies a complete list of all standards
is produced according to the IFOAM Principles remaining residues left in the soil from past harmonized units: Ha = hectare (1 hectare = accepted in accordance to “IFOAM Family of
of Organic Agriculture and certified to the conventional practices. Cotton produced 2.47 acres); kg = kilogram (1 kg = to 2.20 Standards.” A systematic completeness check
IFOAM Family of Standards at the farm level. during the three-year transition period is lbs = 0.0045929637955183 US bales = was carried out on all data collected against
At present, the main farm standards include termed Cotton In-Conversion. 0.005882353 Indian bales); mt = metric ton published data by 53 Certification Bodies
the EU Organic Regulations in Europe (EU- (1,000 kg); m = million (1 m = 1,000,000 kg); b across 46 IFOAM Family of Standards.
Reg), USDA National Organic Program (NOP) Organic Certified Land / Land Area Certified = billion (1 b = 100,000,000).
in United States, and the National Programme To Organic: Organic cotton must be grown Data Source: For OCMR 2018, more than
88 percent of organic cotton production
for Organic Production (NPOP) in India. on land area certified as organic to the IFOAM Reporting boundaries,
Family of standards. However, as organic was sourced from Accreditation Bodies (7
Organic cotton is grown as part of a cotton is grown within a rotation system completeness and accuracy percent) and Certification Bodies (81 percent).
production system that sustains the health to build soil fertility, depending on soil and Sourcing data from Organic Cotton Producers
Reporting Period: The data being collected will continue to serve as a source for cross-
of soils, ecosystems and people. It relies climatic conditions, the same piece of land
cover a 12month cycle and are based on validation and to understand farm level
on ecological processes, biodiversity and may also grow a variety of other crops such as
the International Cotton Advisory Council scenarios, as Certification Body data is limited
cycles adapted to local conditions, rather groundnuts, maize and beans. As the scope
(ICAC) harvest year of 1 August to 31st July. to a small set of indicators.
than the use of inputs with adverse effects, of organic certification covers the variety of
In 2018, data for the 2016-17 harvest year
and is grown in rotation with other crops that crops grown, the land area recorded during
were collected. In countries, such as Tanzania,
replenish the soil. Organic cotton requires a a certification process is referred to Organic
where the cotton is picked between July 2016
third-party certification from an independent, Certified Land.

Data sources on estimated production. Production volume Reporting limitations Disclaimer
collected from varying data sources is reported
in OCMR on an as-is basis and does not
Data was collected from a combination of four • The integrity of organic cotton is Textile Exchange collects and reports
account for any variance between estimated
sources - Authorization Bodies, Certification assumed addressed through the production of certified organic cotton data
and actual production.
Bodies, Organic Cotton Producers and Other certification process and that all organic from Accreditation Bodies, Certification
Business Aggregators and Stakeholders (i.e. cotton production data provided by data Bodies, Organic Cotton Producers as well
ginners, mills, manufacturers, buyers, and Historical or Average Yields: Where data sources are certified. as other stakeholders on an as-is basis.
NGOs.). The data is collected via telephone is only provided for land area but not the Data reported is intended as a snapshot of
interview, site visit, or email by the Textile production volumes, historical yields known production and makes no representation on
• Production data provided by data
Exchange Ambassadors between April and for the specific project or locality or annual total supply. While Textile Exchange carries
sources are accurate, true and complete
July 2018. national average yields (as agreed by the out a systematic completeness and accuracy
to the reporting period specified.
government and applied by certifying bodies) check on its data collection process, we rely
have been used to calculate the production on our data providers for data accuracy
Data analysis and checks volume.
• The variance between estimated
and integrity. Where data gap exists,
production captured at audit by a
Certification Body and the actual Textile Exchange attempts to replace these
Textile Exchange makes every attempt to Land Area Certified to Organic: In selected values with best estimates from historical
harvest volume reported by Organic
obtain a single complete data set per country cases where land area under organic cotton or comparable proxies. Data reported may
Cotton Producers is acceptable (per the
from a Certification Body, a secondary data is reported and total land area certified to change due to corrections or updates from
certification process).
source from an Organic Cotton Producer organic is not reported, the latter is estimated data sources.
and where possible a third data source from to be equal to the former.
alternative stakeholders. The different data • Research findings are dependent
on publicly available data and it is For the purpose of the OCMR, organic cotton
sets are harmonized for metric consistency Ginning Outturn: Where only seed cotton data
the responsibility of Certification and does not include any uncertified naturally
and, in the case of missing data or data is available, lint production is estimated using
Accreditation Bodies to make available all grown cotton nor does it make any statement
deviation, scenarios or average data are used. the ginning outturn known for the country.
pertinent data and information. regarding the integrity beyond its certification,
Collecting data from multiple sources allows
and reported numbers, as reported by our
Textile Exchange to triangulate the information
Estimation for Intercrops: Where only the data providers.
from different providers and cross-check
total certified land was reported, the average
against data reported in the past. In case of
rate of intercrops was applied to derive fiber
inconsistencies, rationales for decision-making
production. (e.g. in India an estimated 33
are defined in a systematic process and
percent for intercrops is applied as per
documented. The final aggregates are proofed
Certification Body methodology).
by industry experts.
Land In-Conversion: In selected cases where
Special remarks in-conversion organic cotton fiber production
from land area in-conversion is reported and
Production Volume: A Certification Body land area in-conversion is not reported, yield
estimates the production volume of an is applied as the divisor to derive land area
Organic Cotton Producer at time of audit. in-conversion.
Within the certification process, a variance
of up to 10 percent is permitted between
estimated production (at time of audit) and
actual harvest (post audit). As at time of data
collection, Organic Cotton Producers would
have realized its harvest, data collected from
Organic Cotton Producers is likely to be based
on actual production whereas data reported
by Certification Bodies is likely to be based

About Textile Exchange
Founded 15 years ago, Textile Exchange is a global non-profit with more than 260 Textile Exchange has three tiers of membership to suit your company or
members that represent leading brands, retailers and suppliers – the quality and organization’s needs, including Friend, Supporter, Partner (Brand/Retailer) and
global reach of which has meaningfully accelerated the use of preferred fibers and Partner (Supply Network). Current Partner level members include:
increased the adoption of standards and certifications in the global textile industry.
As an organization, Textile Exchange creates leaders in the sustainable fiber and
materials sector by providing learning opportunities, tools, insight, standards, data,
measurement and benchmarking—and by building a community that can collectively
accomplish what no individual or company can do alone.
Textile Exchange members are connected to a powerful community of brands,

retailers and companies, large and small, from across the textile world—all
seeking to create a more sustainable and responsible fiber and materials industry.
Members gain access to a suite of valuable tools, relevant data, insight reports,
industry networks and connections —and, above all, the opportunity to take action,
individually or collectively. Our goal is to help you succeed. Please join us in our
collective journey!
Also: Materials Innovation Lab | Shanghai Different Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.

Acknowledgements
It has been a privilege to work with the C&A Foundation again this year, alongside the committed community of organic cotton farmers, manufacturers, brands, and
retailers to generate this report. We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all that have contributed data, expertise, updates and photos for their continued
and valuable co-operation:
APEDA • Bergman Rivera • bioRe Foundation • BioSustain • C&A Foundation • Catholic Relief Services • Chetna Coalition

Chetna Organic • Control Union • Cotton Connect • ECOCERT • Eko-Tar • EMBRAPA Algodão • ESPLAR • Fair Cert
Fairtrade International • FENABE • FiBL • FiLMAR – GOTS - Green Net Cooperative - Gulu Agricultural Development Company
HELVETAS Swiss Intercooperation • Instituto C&A Brazil • Justa Trama • KOWA • National Cotton Classification Center Greece
Natural Cotton Color • Natural Fashion • OneCert • OBEPAB • Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Secretariat - Organic Cotton Accelerator
Organic Cotton Colours • OrganiMark • Pratibha • Pesticide Action Network UK • Pesticide Action Network Ethiopia
RARE • RDFC • Rural Business Development Center Pakistan • SEKEM • Sense Organice - Smallholder Farmers Alliance
SOCiLA • SODEFITEX • Stay True • Suminter • Texas A&M AgriLife • Texas Organic Cotton Market Cooperative
Vreseis, Ltd. - UNPCB • USDA Foreign Agricultural Service • VEJA Shoes
Report production team Regional data collection team

Liesl Truscott (Lead)
Africa: India: Turkey, Egypt and Central Asia:
Evonne Tan
Silvère Tovignan, Lazare Amish Gosai Atila Ertem
Lisa Emberson Yombi, Leonard Mtama
Amish Gosai
Alice Dos Santos China: Latin America: United States:
Evonne Tan Silvio Moraes Sandra Marquardt
Phil Bettany (Report Design)

Textile Exchange envisions a global textile industry that
protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.
www.TextileExchange.org
To learn more about organic cotton, visit Textile Exchange’s

dedicate microsite:
www.aboutorganiccotton.org
For the latest news and trends in the wider preferred fiber
and materials landscape, look out for Textile Exchange’s
2018 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018,
being released soon.

2018 Organic Cotton Market Report PDF

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Organic Cotton

Market Report 2018

4. Continuous Communication TAKE YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE

Cover Page Photo: Farmer Field School, Ethiopia -

Contents EMENA & Central Asia 38

The year in numbers 6 Stakeholder directory 45

Snapshot of the wider organic sector 7

2016/17 organic cotton production 9 Stakeholder directory 52

Q&A with Anita Chester 11

Q&A with Crispin Argento 15 United States of America 65

Stakeholder directory 16 Q&A with Sally Fox 70

Organic cotton pricing 17 Stakeholder directory 72

Africa20 Organic textiles certification 75

Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj 25 Central Database System 76

China30 2018 methodology & disclaimer 78

Q&A with Veronica Yow 34 About Textile Exchange 80

One of the most exciting observations is the potential

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 6

FARMERS CERTIFIED LAND MARKET

+12.8% +15% +12%

TOP 3 COUNTRIES: FARMERS TOP 3 COUNTRIES: LAND TOP 3 COUNTRIES: MARKET

India Argentina Germany

Mexico China France

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 7

51+49+P 19+81+P 7+93+P 7+93+P

5+95+P 4+96+P 3+97+P

Conventional Fiber Production (MT)

Organic Fiber Production (MT)

2006-07 15,000,000 150,000

2011-12 REGIONAL ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION - 5 YEAR TRENDS

Fiber Production (MT)

2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17

Organic Cotton Fiber Production (MT)

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 10

are beginning to see the economic

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 11

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 12

Learn how organic cotton helps achieve the SDGs:

• Achieving SDGs Through Organic Cotton (pdf)

• Global Organic Textile Standards & the SDGs

• How Textile Exchange is supporting the SGDs

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 13

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 14

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 15

Who’s doing what across the globe? bioRe Foundation

Fairtrade HELVETAS Swiss

Global Organic Textile

Textile Exchange SOUTH AFRICA

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 16

• Country of origin The seed cotton price is the amount

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 17

Fibre Length: S Short M Medium L Long EL Extra Long

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 18

PERU Andhra Pradesh

L EL MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:35-60Ne Tamil Nadu

Photo: C&A Foundation, Tanzania

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 20

5-YEAR PRODUCTION TRENDS

3,000 Burkina Faso

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Textile Exchange is partnering with CRS

BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 22

Photo: Pesticide Action Network UK, Ethiopia

Contents EMENA & Central Asia 38

The year in numbers 6 Stakeholder directory 45

Snapshot of the wider organic sector 7

2016/17 organic cotton production 9 Stakeholder directory 52

Q&A with Anita Chester 11

Q&A with Crispin Argento 15 United States of America 65

Stakeholder directory 16 Q&A with Sally Fox 70

Organic cotton pricing 17 Stakeholder directory 72

Africa20 Organic textiles certification 75

Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj 25 Central Database System 76

China30 2018 methodology & disclaimer 78

Q&A with Veronica Yow 34 About Textile Exchange 80