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Santej Road, Near Khatrej Taluka Kalol, Gandhinagar,

Gujarat-382721

Industrial Training Report/project


at
Bottom processing Department

By-
Satveer Singh
B.Tech (Textile Engineering) 2014-2018
Giani Zail Singh Campus College of
Engineering &Technology
Roll no-1413888

SATVEER SINGH 1
Acknowledgement
This Report gives us an opportunity to thank all those who
have helped us to make this training a learning experience.

Above all, We are thankful to the God almighty and our


parents, who are our idols. We are extremely grateful for
GZSCCET and ARVIND LIMITED for providing us an
opportunity to do summer training in this organisation.

We owe our indebtedness to Mr. Umesh patel & Mr.


Dharmendra Gupta (Head of CIT Team) under whose
able guidance and kind control, We have completed our
training and project successfully. We are grateful to them for
all their support, which helped us to know the practical
aspects of the various services.

We express our heartiest thanks to Dr. Devanand (Hon’ble


HOD), and Dr. Anupan (Prof & Head, Deptt of Training
and Placement) for arranging our training at Arvind Limited,
Santej. And special thanks for Amit madahar sir..

Finally, We express our gratitude to the entire staff of Arvind


Limited, Santej for their kind co-operation and assistance
during the course of our training.

SATVEER SINGH 2
Acknowledgement

We owe a debt of gratitude to Mr. Shubanish


Malhotra, (HEAD HR), Ms. Krupa Rawal (HR)
for giving their consent to accommodate us for
industrial training in this esteemed organisation.

We appreciate the on-going support, valuable help and


positive guidanc of Mr. Prashant dave ,Mr. Ashish
patel , Mr. Parthiv patel , in helping us complete our
training successfully. We want to heartily thank for
there constant support and encouragement.

It has been a great pleasure and enlightening


experience to work with Bottom processing
Department. They shared their valuable practical
knowledge and took pain staking effort to give
valuable teaching and suggestion that would help us
in long run.

SATVEER SINGH 3
Contents
1. About Arvind Limited

2 Arvind Timeline

3 Vision and Mission

4 Awards and Certificates

5 Process Flow at Arvind

6 Objectives of Internship

7Bleaching department

8 Dyeing department

9 Finishing department

10 Project on Sorona fabrics

11 Observations for project

12 Conclusion

SATVEER SINGH 4
4
About Arvind Limited
The Arvind Limited is one of the largest textile
conglomerates in Asia. Its headquarters is in Ahmedabad
(Gujarat). It manufactures a range of Shirting, Denims,
Knits and Bottom weights (Khakis) fabrics. The company
has a turnover of approximately
$ 500 million and is a part of over 100 years old Lalbhai
Group.

Arvind ranks in top three largest Denim producers


worldwide with an annual production of over 90 million
meters of Denim Fabric and Exports to over 70 countries.
It is also one of the largest producers in Asia of high value
cotton shirting fabrics. It has a capacity of around 34
MMPA (million meters per annum) of yard dyed shirting
and piece dyed shirting fabric including specialty Fine
count Indigo yarn dyed and solid Shirting fabric. It
produces approximately 20 MMPA of Piece Dyed Khaki's
fabrics and around 16 TPD (tones per day) of Knits Fabrics
which is vertically integrated into Knits Garments.

SATVEER SINGH 5
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting,
gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its kind in
India, at Santej, Gandhinagar (Gujarat). With Arvind‘s
concern for environment a most modern effluent
treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability
was also established.

Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt


factories in Bangalore in 2001. This modest beginning has
quickly grown to a capacity of around 4.50 Million Shirts
per annum and the list of customers includes Gap, Dockers,
Next, Esprit,and many others.

Arvind's entry into Jeans/ P a n t s was delayed due to


the tight quota situation in India. It entered into Jeans
Garment exports with its first Jeans factory ―The Arvind
Overseas (Mauritius) Ltd., Mauritius, to offer full Garment
package to its customers in USA and Europe. This factory
which started in March 2002 was a good stepping stone/
pilot plant and did programs with customers which
included Express, Next, M&S, Lee Cooper, Rocawear and
others. With the world moving into a new Quota Free
world,
SATVEER SINGH 6
stocks company brands.
Arvind feature is that its enterprises are
equipped with highly advanced equipment
of a full cycle- from painting the finer to the
finished product.

Brands By Arvind Group

 With the best of technology and business acumen,


Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having
chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high
and quality requirement is being superlative. Arvind has set
the pace for changing global customer demands of textiles
and has focused its attention on selected core products. Such
a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in
the global textile arena. Today, The Arvind Limited is the
flagship company of ₹ 30 billion Lalbhai Group.

SATVEER SINGH 7
Arvind Timeline

2014
Buys 49% stake in Calvin Klein in India Set up joint venture (JV) with Goodhill
Corporation of Japan for launch of formal suits.

2013
Signs agreement for licenses of Hanes Enters long term licensing agreement with
Iconix Lifestyle India.

2012
Signs distribution agreement with Billabong Arvind acquires India operations of
Debenhams, Next, Nautica.

2011
Set up joint venture for marketing Tommy Hilfiger brand

2010
Launched The Arvind Store and its first major Real Estate project

2008
Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing
MegaMart – One of India’s largest value retail chains.

2007
Started Organic farming with Fairtrade Cotton Project

2003-04
Arvind Brands Limited made subsidiary company of Arvind

2000
Garments Exports Division ‘Lifestyle Apparels’ established

SATVEER SINGH 8
1998
Established Santej Unit on 450 acres of land - shirting facility

1996
Set up Arvind Cotspin Ltd., an export oriented unit at Kolhapur, Maharashtra

1992
Increased the production of denim by modernising the Ankur Textiles plant located
at Khatraj

1990
Nagri Mills acquired and renamed as Arvind Intex Ltd and Saraspur Mills renamed
as Arvind Poly coat

1989
Started its Telecom Division with the production of RAXs at Pune

1987-88
Arvind enters the export market for Denims with an export oriented unit named
Arvind Exports

1985-86
Sanjay Lalbhai led the ‘Reno-vision’ Commission and implemented first Denim
plant and issued debentures

1939
Diversification with Anil Starch Limited followed by Atul Products Limited in 1952
for producing textile-related chemicals and dyestuff

1931
Laid the foundation of Arvind Mills raising a share capital of Rs. 25.25 lakh, Shri
Kasturbhai Lalbhai,Shri.Chimanbhai Lalbhai,and Shri.Narottambhai Lalbhai

SATVEER SINGH 9
Company’s Vision

They Believe
In people and their unlimited potential; in
content and in focus on problem solving; in
teams for effective performance, in the
power of the intellect.
They Endeavour
To select, train and coach people to obtain
higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and
to build leaders for the corporations of
tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate
all intellectual business contributions.
They Dream
Of excellence in all endeavours; of mutual
benefit and prosperity; of making the
world a better place to live in.

SATVEER SINGH 10
Awards and Certificates

•ISO 9001 certified company


• ISO 14001 certified company
• Oeko-Tex 100 certified for product compliance
• GOTS(Global Organic Textile Standards) certified.
• GAP accredited laboratory
• OE(Organic Exchange)
• Arvind Limited,bagged first prize in the National
Energy.
• Conservation Award 2015 in the textile sector, given by the Union Power
Ministry.
•Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification)
and customers like LEVI’S etc.

SATVEER SINGH 11
Process Flow at Arvind

Spinning

Weaving

Wet Processing

Dyeing/Printing

Finishing

SATVEER SINGH 12
objective of Internship

• Indepth study of process, machinery


and equipment used.
• Understanding the company‘s process

flow in Processing
•Understanding basic principles of
Processing

SATVEER SINGH 13
Process flow in processing:-
Bleaching department
Dyeing department
Finishing department
Here we will discus in detail in all those one by one
Bleaching department:-
In bleaching department we done the pretreatment of
the fabric like desizing, scouring, bleaching
mercerization Seuding are held.
In bottom processing
Process sequence of m/c:-
Oshtoff singe desize machine/ benninger singe desize
machine injecta washing machine kuster
CBR/benninger PTR Morrison mercerizer machine/
demensa mercerizer(benninger) seuding machine

SATVEER SINGH 14
Desizing process:-Desizing is an essential stage of
all textile processing, in which 'size' is removed from
fabric before completing the pre-treatment process,
which is necessary before dyeing, printing and
finishing. Before yarn is woven into fabric, the 'Warp'
yarns are coated with sizing agents

Type of desizing :-
✓Rot steeping
✓Acid desizing
✓Oxidative desizing
✓Enzymaticdesizing

:NOTE:-In bottom processing plant there are 2 types


of desizing is done
✓COC
✓Enzymatic

SATVEER SINGH 15
Oshtoff singe desizing machine:-
Price of machine;-8-9 cr
No of FLM:-3
Speed of machine :- 80m/min
Production per shift of machine :-30000m

Process sequence:-
Stitches brake roll dancer j- scre
dualistic part 1 dilistic part 2 draw nip
dancer padding batchs

SATVEER SINGH 16
▪Function of part of the machine

✓stitches:-small small lot is connected on the larger


roll to ,make the required lot of fabric.
✓Brake roll:-
✓Dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure of
3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then the
machine is stopped.
✓J-scre:-when stitches of lots is required, then the
extra fabric is stored in this part so that time taken to
stitch is achevied, and process could not be stopped .
✓Dielistic part 1:-to burn the protruding fibre from the
surface of fabric.
✓Dielistic part 2:-for brushes of the burned protruding
fibre with the help of 2 brushes. These burnt fibre are
taken to pneumatic pipes for removal.
✓Draw nip:-to give the tension 2 roller are used at a
pressure of 3.5 bar.
✓Padding:-In this chamber , fabric get saturate with
the desize chemical (H2O2, NAOH).
✓After desize fabric is made on the batch.
✓Then on the rotation for 16 hours for reaction with
the added chemicals and sized materails

SATVEER SINGH 17
▪Defects:-
✓If the expander roller get jammed, then crease
in the fabric may be arise.
✓If the any one roller in padding chamber get
jammed , then crease may be arise.
✓If the singeing chamber does not clean well ,
then burnt fibre that stick with fabric produce
stain.
✓If the intensity of the flame in singeing chamber
is uneven ,then uneven protruding fibre are
burnt, due to this, create problem in next
department( dyeing, bleaching).

▪Remedies :-
✓Check the expander roller should be working
properly,
✓Roller in chamber rolls properly.
✓Singeing chamber should be clean well.
✓Intensity of flame in singeing chamber should
be even

SATVEER SINGH 18
▪Benninger singe desizing machine:-
Price of machine:-8-9 crore.
No of workers:-3
Operator name:-Baldev thakur
Speed of m/c:- 80m/min
Capacity of Inlet :- 3000m

▪Process sequence
Stitches brake roll dancer j-scre 1st brushing
unit tension bar guide roller nip roller 2nd
brushing unit singeing padding batching
▪Function of part of m/c
✓stitches:-small small lot is connected on the
larger roll to ,make the required lot of fabric.
✓Dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the
pressure of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric
occur ,then the machine is stopped.
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required,
then the extra fabric is stored in this part so that
time taken to stitch is achieved, and process
could not be stopped
✓guide roller:-to make the fabric dimensional
stable. SATVEER SINGH 19
✓Nip roller:-
✓Padding:-In this chamber , fabric get saturate
with the desize chemical (H2O2, NAOH)
✓After desize fabric is made on the batch.
✓Then on the rotation for 16 hours for
reaction with the added chemicals and sized
materails

SATVEER SINGH 20
Defects:
✓If the expander roller get jammed, then
crease may be arise in the fabric.
✓If the any one roller in padding chamber
get jammed , then crease may be arise.
✓If the singeing chamber does not clean well ,
then burnt fibre that stick with fabric produce
stain.
✓If the intensity of the flame in singeing
chamber is uneven ,then uneven protruding
fibre are burnt, due to this, create problem in
next department( dyeing, bleaching).
Remedies :-
✓Check the expander roller should be working
properly,
✓Roller in chamber rolls properly.
✓Singeing chamber should be clean well.
✓Intensity of flame in singeing chamber
should be even

SATVEER SINGH 21
▪ Injecta washing machine:-
Price of m/c:- 6 cr (approx)
No of worker:-3
Operater name ;-ashok bhai
Speed of m/c:- 80m/min
Capacity of m/c:-3000m

Process sequence

Batching j-scre dancer injecta


pressure
unit washer nip washer washer j-
scre dancer guide-rolller batching

Function of part of m/c:-

✓stitches:-small small lot is connected


on the larger roll to ,make the required
lot of fabric.

SATVEER SINGH 22
✓Dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure
of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped.
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required,
then the extra fabric is stored in this part so that
time taken to stitch is achevied, and process
could not be stopped.
✓Injecta pressure unit:-water and steam is
used for washing , pressure steam is used in
injecta to treat the fabric to detached the
chemical or desize chemicals
✓Washer:-it is used to wash the residual
chemicals
✓Guide roller:- to guide the fabric and make
it dimensional stable (1 kgcm2).
Defects:-
✓If the expander roller does not working
properly, get jammed, then crease may be
occurred

SATVEER SINGH 23
▪Kuster CBR:-
✓The aim of bleaching is to remove any
unwanted colour from the fibres and to bring
whiteness to fabric thereby it improves the
absorbency of the material for dyeing and
printing. The most common bleaching agents
are hydrogen peroxide & Hypochlorite.
✓In continues bleaching range it combines the
pre-treatment processes of textiles like
desizing, scouring and bleaching in this
machine itself. This minimises energy
consumption and reduces number of
operations.
Price of m/c- 12cr
No of FLM – 3
Capacity of inlet- 2500 to 3000m
Name of operator- govind bhai
Production /shift- 25000 to 30000m
Chemical use – caustic soda , hydrogen
peroxide, green acid

SATVEER SINGH 24
Process sequence:-
Batching j-scre dancer--.tie-bar brake roller
guide-roller dancer nip washer
expander roller hydraulic nip flex nip
bleaching chamber platter nip dancer
nip dancer washer hydraulic nip
washer nip dancer washer nip washer
hydraulic nip dancer VDR nip
dancer j-scre guide roller batching

Function of part of the m/c


✓stitches:-small small lot is connected on the
larger roll to ,make the required lot of fabric
✓Dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure
of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required, then
the extra fabric is stored in this part so that time
taken to stitch is achieved and process could
not be stopped.

. SATVEER SINGH 25
✓guide roller:-to make the fabric
dimensional stable.
✓Expander roller-to remove the crease
on the fabric.
✓Flex nip;-in this chamber , application
of bleaching is execute , there is two
tube, white and red tube
✓Bleaching chamber;-in this chamber,
fabric has to be steamed at 90c and may
be either t*t or bed depend on the type of
fabric or GSM of fabric and is used to
remove the remaining starch from the
fabric.
✓Platter:-to the fabric forward
✓Nip roller:-to squeeze the fabric.
✓Washer:-to remove or to wash the
bleach chemical from the fabric,
✓VDR:-are used to dry to fabric, hollow
drum is used to steam through it.
SATVEER SINGH 26
Defects:-
stain, crease , tendering ,hole,
✓If the expander roller does not working
properly, get jammed, then crease may be
occurred,
✓If the metalic ion is present in the water then
it produced more nascent oxygen it get
damaged the fabric
✓If the VDR is not properly clean , pluff is
there then strain must be occurred
✓If the any of the chamber get jammed then
crease may be occurred.

Remedies:-
✓Check that the expander is working
properly,
✓Metalic ion should not be in water

SATVEER SINGH 27
▪ PTR machine:-
Price of m/c:- 14 cr
No of FLM:-3
Operator name:-jagdish bhai
Speed of m/c:- 60 to 70m/min
Capacity of Inlet :- 3000-6000m

Process sequence:-
Stitch dancer j- scre dancer
expander roller washer dancer washer
washer impecta steamer rubber guide
washer washer dancer VDR
cooling drier mahlo roller drive j-
scre batching.

Function of part of m/c:-


stitches:-small small lot is connected on the
larger roll to ,make the required lot of fabric.

SATVEER SINGH 28
✓Dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure
of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required,
then the extra fabric is stored in this part so that
time taken to stitch is achieved, and process
could not be stopped.
✓guide roller:-to make the fabric dimensional
stable.
✓Expander roller- to remove the crease on
the fabric.
✓Impecta:-it collect the chemical
✓Steamer:-it fix the chemical on the fabric
✓Washer:- to remove or to wash the bleach
chemical from the fabric . Sometime fabric
required acidic medium(acetic acid )so that the
yellow stain does not occur on stenter or
merserisation.
✓Mahlo:-to stable the fabric(no shrinkage).

SATVEER SINGH 29
▪Defects:-
stain, crease, tendering , hole, dropping,
✓If the expander roller does not working
properly, get jammed, then crease may be
occurred,
✓If the metallic ion is present in the water
then it produced more nascent oxygen it get
damaged the fabric
✓If the VDR is not properly clean , pluff is
there then strain must be occurred
✓If the any of the chamber get jammed then
crease may be occurred
✓If the roof of the steam chamber is open then
the evaporate water condense and drops on the
fabrics.

Remedies:-
✓Check that the expander is working
properly,
✓Metallic ion should not be in water

SATVEER SINGH 30
▪Morrison mercerization m/c:-
✓If cotton is dipped into a strong alkaline solution such
as lithium hydroxide, caustic soda, or potassium
hydroxide, the fibers will swell and shrink. If the fibers
are placed under tension while in this swollen state and
then rinsed with water, the alkali will be removed and a
permanent silk-like luster will result.
✓Alternatively, after swelling, if the alkali is rinsed off
when the fibre is in its shrunk state, an increase in
luster may not be discernable, but the fibers will fix in
that shrunk state, thus giving good elasticity to external
stress.
▪The effects of mercerization:-
✓Improved luster
✓Increased ability to absorb dye
✓Improved reactions with a variety of chemicals
✓Improved stability of form
✓Improved strength/elongation
✓Improved smoothness
➢Price of m/c- 13 cr
➢No of FLM- 3
➢Capacity of inlet- 2500 to 3500m
➢Speed of m/c- 60 to 70m

SATVEER SINGH 31
Process sequence:-
Batching dancer j- scre saturator 1 stack
timing 1 saturator 2 stack timing
2 dancer expander roller guide roller
pillar angle on flame nip recuperator
nip washer 1 nip washer 2 acid box
nip washer 3 nip srew roll VDR j-scre
batching
Function of part of m/c:-
✓stitches:-small small lot is connected on the
larger roll to ,make the required lot of fabric.
✓dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure
of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required, then
the extra fabric is stored in this part so that time
taken to stitch is achieved , and process could
not be stopped.
✓guide roller:-to make the fabric dimensional
stable.
✓Expander roller-to remove the crease on the
fabric
SATVEER SINGH 32
✓Saturator 1:-caustic soda solution is
prepared , in which the fabric is dipped on this
solution , and passed to the stack timing 1.

✓stack timing 1:-for timing to caustic soda to


react with the fabric for solution NAOH with
the fabric(11 sec).

✓caustic soda(260-280gpl) solution is


prepared,in which the fabric is dipped on this
solution,and passed to the stack timing 2.
✓Stack timing 2:- for timing to caustic soda to
react with the fabric for solution HAOH with
the fabric(11 sec).
✓Pillar :-to set the fabric on the chain.
✓Angle:-to stop the m/c the fabric break.
✓Frame:-(5 in no) the recovered caustic soda
from recuperater is sprayed on fabric through
on the frame.
✓Nip;-it passed the fabric to remove
chemicals solution from it.
SATVEER SINGH 33
✓Recuperater:-to wash the fabric by steam
burettes, efficiency- 95% in washing.
✓Acid box:-in which the fabric is treated for
neutralized, ph is set for heavy GSM fabric is
3, for low GSM is 3.3
✓Screw roll :-to remove the crease and
prevent the folding problem.
Defects:-
stain, crease, tendering , hole ,selvedge cut,
✓fthe expander roller does not working
properly, get jammed, then crease may be
occurred,
✓If the VDR is not properly clean , puff is there
then strain must be occurred,
Remedies:-
✓Check that the expander is working
properly,

SATVEER SINGH 34
▪Benninger dimensa mercerization m/c
Price of m/c:- 12 cr
No of FLM:- 3
Operator name:- Ranchor prajapati
Speed of m/c:- 60 to 70m/min
Capacity of inlet- 2500 to 3000m
Process sequence:-
Batching j- scre break roller trough nip
tank reacta 1
reacta2 reacta3 nip conveyor over feed
conveyor belt photocell sensor tenter
drive recuperator washer 1 washer
2 washer 3(acid +water) dry can dancer j-
scre dancer tie bar guide roller
expander roller guide roller
batching
Function of part of m/c:-
✓stitches:-small small lot is connected on the
larger roll to ,make the required lot of fabric.
✓dancer:-it maintain the fabric at the pressure
of 3bar. If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped
SATVEER SINGH 35
✓J- scre:-when stitches of lots is required,
then the extra fabric is stored in this part so that
time taken to stitch is achieved, and process
could not be stopped.
✓guide roller:-to make the fabric dimensional
stable.
✓Expander roller-to remove the crease on the
fabric
✓Break roll:-fixed type of roller to make
fabric straight so it does not move occur .
✓Trough:-caustic soda used(40-50gpl)
✓IP tank:-260-280gpl of caustic soda
✓Reacta:-it gives it for pick up for absorbing
NAOH
✓Conveyor over feed :-to make fabric to
chain so fabric is made loose through over feed
✓Photo cell sensor;-to make the fabric
straight.
✓Tenter:-pin are used to hold the fabric to
make dimensional stability.

SATVEER SINGH 36
✓Chemical chain spray:-40-50gpl caustic
soda is used which is recovered from
recuperater,
✓Drive:-to make fabric forward in direction.
✓Recuperater:-water is used to remove NAOH
at 98c
✓Cooling cylinder:-to maintain moisture in
fabric
✓Acid box:-in which the fabric is treated for
neutralized, ph is set for heavy GSM fabric is
3, for low GSM is 3.3
✓Screw roll :-to remove the crease and and
prevent the folding problem

SATVEER SINGH 37
Defects:-
stain, crease, tendering , hole ,selvedge cut,
✓If the expander roller does not working
properly, get jammed, then crease may be
occurred,
✓If the VDR is not properly clean , puff is
there then strain must be occurred.

Remedies:-
✓Check that the expander is working
properly

SATVEER SINGH 38
▪Sauder machine:-
Seuding is a mechanical process in which a
fabric is abraded on one side or both sides to
raise or create a fabric surface .the fibrous
surface improves the fabric appearance, give
the softer, fuller hand, these improve aesthetic
can increase the value of a fabric in market
place.
It is also known as a sanding or emerging,

Types of seuding m/c


✓Single cylinder sueder
✓Double cylinder sueder m/c

Lafer 2:-
No of FLM- 2
Operator name:- patel bhai
Speed of m/c:-23m/min
Capacity of inlet- 3000 to 4000m

SATVEER SINGH 39
Speed of drum:-50 rpm
Drum dia:-3.5m
Capacity of batch lot :-2500-3000m
Production of m/c :-6000-7000m/shift

Process sequence:-
.batching dancer driving roll front
drag roll drum (24 roll, 12 cp, 12 pp) pear
drag roll brushing roll plaiter roll
batching

Function of part of m/c:-


Batch:- to feed the fabric in machine
Front drag roll:-to guide the roll and pass the
fabric to the drum
Pear drag roll:-it forwarded the smoothen
pilled fabric
dancer :- If breakage on the fabric occur ,then
the machine is stopped
Cleaning brushes :-to clean the fabric.

SATVEER SINGH 40
Dyeing department

Dyeing is governed by three factors, the dye, the fibre


and the dye liquor. All the three lead an independent
assistance which influences the technique of dyeing. A
dye must be water soluble in order to dye textile
materials. It may be soluble by nature of its chemical
interference.
The dyeing process can thus be considered as
taking place in three phases.
✓Attachment of the dye molecule to the surface of
the fibre
✓Penetration into the intermolecular spaces as well as
diffusion through the fibre &
✓Orientation (and fixation) along the long chain
molecules.
The solution of the dye from which it is applied is
called the „dye bath‟. A dye may have direct „affinity‟
for a fiber (or vice versa) i.e., it is held by the fibre
either physically (absorption) or chemically
(combination) as soon as the fiber is immersed in the
dye bath.
Accumulation of the dye in the fiber is a gradual
process, the rate of such building up being referred to
as the 'rate of dyeing .

SATVEER SINGH 41
1. This rate of dyeing is governed by the condition of
the dye bath, namely concentration of dye,
temperature, and presence of electrolytes; it is
proportional to all three factors.
2. The rate of dyeing is also influenced by the
‘Material to liquor’which is expressed by a fraction,
e.g. 1:20, which means one part (by weight) of the
textile material dyed in twenty times its weight of
dye bath.
3. The rate of dyeing decreases with increasing ratio of
goods to liquor.
Dyeing is carried out to produce a certain „Shade‟
by which is meant a certain colour, difference in
shade being due to different ‟Hue‟. A blue shade
may, for instance, have a greenish or a reddish hue.
The amount of dye needed for the production of a
certain depth of shade is expressed as a percentage
of the weight of the material. A 1% dyeing
represents a shade produced by the colouring of 100
lbs. of material with one lb. of (commercial) dye
under well defined dyeing conditions.

SATVEER SINGH 42
Dyeing machines in bottom
processing
In arvind bottom processing unit have five different
types of machine used in dyeing department.
▪Cold pad batch (CPB)
▪Pad dry pad steam(PDPS)
▪Jigger
▪Soft flow
Cold pad batch (CPB):- Cold pad batch
dyeing is closely related to continuous dyeing but it
only requires the use of a pad mangle and a means of
winding fabric onto a roll The fabric is dipped in a
trough containing dye and alkali (typically sodium
hydroxide and/or sodium silicate), it is mangled and
then wound on a roll without drying it. The roll is
covered in plastic sheets to stop the fabric drying and
the batch is slowly rotated for 12 – 24 hours to allow
the dye to fix at room temperature. There is no need to
apply heat* and there is no need to use salt or
humectants so it is a low water dyeing process, it
requires little energy and the absence of salt has the
dual benefits of easy dye wash off and no salt in
effluent. Additionally there is often a higher % dye
fixation compared to jet dyeing.
SATVEER SINGH 43
Machine Details:
Maker: kuster
No of FLM -3
Speed of m/c- 50m/ mit
Capacity of m/c- 2500 to 3000M
Temperature of truph - less then 30°c
Production/shift-30000M
Line diagram of m/c:-

Process sequence of m/c:-


Fabric input dye padding batching rotating(6
to 16 hr) washing

SATVEER SINGH 44
▪Before parameters
✓The fabric should be desized, bleached and
mercerized
✓Material must be made available for dyeing
in neutral form.
✓Uniform and readily absorbent.
✓Whiteness of the fabric should be even.
✓Such pretreatments give the further
advantage of better colour yield
✓Alkali concentrations by titration met
✓Alkali solution pH
✓Dye solution pH
✓Pad liquor pH
▪After parameters
✓Csv on dyed fabric
✓Shade variation width or length wise both
✓Stain on dyed fabric
✓Stitching effect on dyed fabric
✓Cover every stitch with polythene

SATVEER SINGH 45
Pad dry pad steam(PDPS)
▪A process of continuous dyeing in which the fabricin
open width is padded with dyestuff and is then
steamed.
▪It’s an ideal machine for reactive dyeing.
Light, pale and medium shades can be dyed in this
machine
▪Continuous roller steamer is used for diffusion of
reactive, vat, sulphur and direct dyes into cellulosic
fibers in an atmosphere of heat and moisture that is
created by saturated steam injected into the steamer.
▪It can be used as a pad batch for reactive dyeing in
which batch is left for 12-18 hours for the completion
of the reaction. For time saving the fabric passes
through the steamer for 1 minute and the reaction is
completed.
▪It can also be used for reduction clearance (RC) in
which we treat PC fabric with caustic and sodium
hydrosulphide to remove the disperse dye from cotton.
▪Stripping of the fabric can also be done on this
machine that is, color can be removed completely by
adding higher amount of caustic and sodium
hydrosulphide.
▪It can be used for the development of Vat dyes.
▪The dyed fabric can be washed in this machine.
SATVEER SINGH 46
Machine details:-
Pad dry-
Maker- monfort thermex
No of FLM- 3
Speed of m/c- 30 to 45m/min
Capacity of m/c- 2000 to 2500M
Trough level- 85%(+/-2%)
Production/shift- 10000M
process sequence of m/c:-
Fabric input feeding rollers j scary Timing rollers
padding mangle IR chambers steam chamber 1
steam chamber 2 cooling cylinders J scary
checking point batching
Line diagram of m/c:-

SATVEER SINGH 47
▪Fabric input- this is the starting point of pad dry
machine here we inlet the fabric by batch.
▪Feeding rollers- by using these rollers we feed fabric
inside the j scary
▪J scary- this is a part in which we store the fabricalso
increase/decrease speed of j scary
▪Padding mangle- mangle a combination of rollers
which maintain by pressers also maintain pickup of
machine
▪IR chambers- chambers have high temperature which
is maintain by using high conductive material bricks IR
chambers are use for reduce migration.
▪Steam chambers- in pd m/c two chambers are held .
Fabric came in chambers for dry by steam which is
develop by blowers.
✓Chamber 1- 120 to 140°c
✓Chamber 2- 140 to 160°c
▪Cooling cylinders- in pad dry machine have four
cooling cylinders which is use to reduce the temp of
fabric which out from steam chambers
▪Checking point- this is part where we check the
before parameter of fabric and also check the defects
on fabric.
▪Batching- after checking parameters of fabric we
insert the fabric on batch.
SATVEER SINGH 48
Before parameters
✓Check batch card ( shade no , short no) of material to
be dyed.
✓Check position of colour tanks whether colour is
ready are not
✓Check material stain, crease, hole etc before dyeing.
✓Check all the cloth guider working or not and careful
abut the all air pressers , water availability before
starting m/c.
✓Confirm cleaning of the m/c thoroughly before
starting.
▪After parameters-
✓In after parameters we check the defects in the dyed
fabric like stain , hole , shade variation , crease ,csv
etc.
✓If shade is lighter then we go for redyeing or shade
is darker we can use stripping process.
✓For csv problem we check mangle pressers at lift
middle right position by taking carbon imprecation.
✓Same time crease are come because rollers tension
are not maintain
✓If selection of dyes are not maintain then tonal
variation is seen on the fabric. For tonal variation there
is no farther operation to remove .

SATVEER SINGH 49
Pad steam:-
Fabric is first padded in a padder with the dye.
It is then passed through between two squeezing roller
in a dryer. Drying should be done slowly; otherwise
precipitation of dye due to quick removal of water may
take place leading to lower colour value.
After coming out from dryer fabric is padded in a
padder containing salt and alkali. Due to salt
exhaustion of dye takes place and due to alkali fixation
occurs.
Fabric then passed through a steamer where it is kept
for 15-19 second. Due to high temperature here
fixation rate increases.
In this step fabric is washed in a washing machine to
remove the unfixed dye.
Machine details:-
Maker- kuster
No of FLM- 3
Speed of m/c- 60m/min
Capacity of inlet- 2000 to 2500m
Trough level- 84%(+/-2%)
Production/shift- 12000m
Pressure of the padders - 1.5 - 2 bar.
Types of padders- 2(hydraulic and pneumatic)

SATVEER SINGH 50
Line diagram of m/c:-

Process sequence :-
Fabric inlet J scary padding mangle(s-s roll)
steamer(dwell) water barrier( chilled water)
washer ( room temp) nip washer(room
temp) nip washer(50°c) washer(inject
peroxide) nip( hydraulic) washing chamber(95°c,
for soaping) nip washer(hot water,85°c)
nip(hydraulic) washer(room temp) nip- vdr
range(22 dry can) out j scary batching.
Before parameter:-
✓Check batch card ( shade no , short no) of material to
be dyed.
✓Check position of colour tanks whether colour is
ready are not
✓Check material stain, crease, hole etc before dyeing.
✓Check all the cloth guider working or not
SATVEER SINGH 51
After parameters:-
✓In after parameters we check the defects in the dyed
fabric like stain , hole , shade variation , crease ,csv
etc.
✓If shade is lighter then we go for redyeing or shade
is darker we can use stripping process.
✓For csv problem we check mangle pressers at lift
middle right position by taking carbon imprecation.
✓Same time crease are come because rollers tension
are not maintain
✓If selection of dyes are not maintain then tonal
variation is seen on the fabric. For tonal variation there
is no farther operation to remove .

SATVEER SINGH 52
Jigger m/c:-

Jigg or jigger dyeing machine is one of the oldest


dyeing machine used for cloth dyeing operations.
Jigger machine is suitable for dyeing of woven fabrics,
up to boiling temperature without any creasing . Jigs
exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and
are more suitable for the dyeing of woven than knitted
fabrics. Since the fabric is handled in open-width, a jig
is very suitable for fabrics which crease when dyed in
rope form
1. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the
fabric and are more suitable for the dyeing of
woven than knitted fabrics

2. There are mainly two types of jigger dyeing


machine. One is open jigger dyeing machine and
other is closed jigger dyeing machine.

3. The number of ends or turns depends upon the


type of the fabric and also the percentage of the
shade.

4. It exerts lot of tension in the warp direction and


because of this normally knitted fabrics is not
dyed in jigger dyeing machine.
SATVEER SINGH 53
Machine details:-
Maker- laxmi
No of FLM- 2
Speed of m/c- 10 to 150 m/min
Capacity of inlet- 3000 to 3500m
Fabric tension- 5 to 70 kg/cm2
Fabric width (mex)- 3800mm
Roller width (mex) – 4000mm
Roller diameter- 270mm
Batch diameter- 1000/1230
Line diagram of m/c:-

SATVEER SINGH 54
Main parts:
1. Guide roller
2. Take up roller
3. Let off roller
4. Steam channel
5. Dye bath
Utilities required:
1. Water
2. Steam
3. Electricity

SATVEER SINGH 55
Before parameters:-
✓Check batch card ( shade no , short no) of material to
be dyed.
✓Check position of colour tanks whether colour is
ready are not
✓Check material stain, crease, hole etc before dyeing.
✓Check proper tension is given or not.
✓Careful abut the width of the fabric which is play
very big role it do not more then the width of the
rollers.
After parameters:-
✓In after parameters we check the defects in the dyed
fabric like stain , hole , shade variation , crease ,csv
etc.
✓If shade is lighter then we go for redyeing or shade
is darker we can use stripping process.
✓Same time crease are come because rollers tension
are not maintain
✓If selection of dyes are not maintain then tonal
variation is seen on the fabric. For tonal variation there
is no farther operation to remove .

SATVEER SINGH 56
Soft flow m/c:-
In the soft flow dyeing machine water is used for
keeping the fabric in circulation. The connectional
difference of this equipment from a conventional jets
that operates with a hydraulic system is that the fabric
rope is kept circulating during the whole processing
cycle (right from loading to unloading). There is no
stopping of liquor or fabric circulation for usual drain
and fill steps.
The principle working behind the technique is very
unique. There is a system for fresh water to enter the
vessel via a heat exchanger to a special interchange
zone. At the same time the contaminated liquor is
allowed channel out through a drain without any sort of
contact with the fabric or for that matter the new bath
in the machine.
Machine detail:-
Maker – scales Italy
No. of FLM- 2
Speed of m/c- 40 to 45 m/min
Capacity of inlet – 250kg
Production/day – 5000m( 2.5 lot/day)
MLR – 1:6
Speed of reel – 420m/min
Vol of water – 1425ml
SATVEER SINGH 57
Line diagram of m/c:-

Process sequence :- dye auto clave


circulation system dye bath pump heat exchanger
dye bath filter Nozzle seam detector
addition tank
Before parameters:-
meet the previous shift operator and discuss regarding
the issues faced by them with respect to the quality or
production or spare or safety or any other specific
instruction etc.
SATVEER SINGH 58
✓Understand the Fabric being processed & process
running on the machine.
✓Ensure technical details are mentioned on the job
card & displayed in the machine.
✓Check the next batch to be processed is ready near
the machine.
✓Check the cleanliness of the machines & other work
areas
✓Check position of colour tanks whether colour is
ready are not
✓Check is there any defects in feed fabric.
After parameters:-
✓In after parameters we check the defects in the dyed
fabric like stain , hole , shade variation , ,csv etc.
✓If shade is lighter then we go for redyeing or shade
is darker we can use stripping process.
✓If selection of dyes are not maintain then tonal
variation is seen on the fabric. For tonal variation there
is no farther operation to remove .

SATVEER SINGH 59
▪Finishing department:-
Textile finishing can be categorized according to
purpose or end result and it is a term which is
usually performed after dyeing or printing stage
and before to the making garments where cut and
sewn are done .
✓By textile finishing, we also mean all the
processing operations that, though included in the
so-called finishing stage, are generally applied to
the fabrics to improve their appearance, hand and
Properties. The finishing stage plays a fundamental
role in the Excellency of the commercial results of
textiles, which strictly depend on market
requirements that are becoming increasingly
stringent and unpredictable, permitting very short
response times for textile manufacturers
✓The purpose of finishing is the improvement of
the serviceability and adaptation of the products to
meet the ever-changing demands of fashion and
function

SATVEER SINGH 60
REQUIREMENT OF FINISHING:-
✓Often fibers in textile substrates are
deficient in one or more
✓properties or improved properties are
desired for the substrate.
For getting this approach in finishing provides
a method whereby deficiencies in the textile
can be upon the type of the fiber along with
the number and type of finishes applied .
✓The fabric should not become unnecessarily
stiff and the fabric should have soil release or
soil repellent property
✓The finish should not alter the fastness
properties or dyed material, feel, strength etc.
of the fabric
Chemicals Used:-
1.Vulcanized natural rubber.
2.Oxidised oils of varnishes.
3.Polyvinyl chloro acetate.

SATVEER SINGH 61
TOTAL NUMBER OF MACHINE IN
BOTTOM FINISH DIVISION: 17

TYPE NUMBER NAME

Stenter 6 4-Bruckner
1-Monfort
1-Yamuna

Curing 2 2-Monfort

sanforizing 4 4-Monfort

Raising/ 5 5-Lafer
peachIng

SATVEER SINGH 62
▪Bruckner stenter machine
▪Objective
Width of the fabric is controlled on the
stenter machine.
Finishing chemical applied on the fabric
by the stenter.
Moisture of the fabric is controlled.
GSM of the fabric is controlled.
Shrinkage property of the fabric is
controlled by the stenter.
Heat setting is done for lycra , synthetic
and blend fabric.
Main unit:-
A padder to uniformly wet-out fabrics
and apply finishing agents,
Weft-straightening devices
and control equipment

SATVEER SINGH 63
▪ Uses
The stenter is a continuous types of
machine and can be used before or after
dyeing/printing.
The stenter frame used for following
processes.
Equalizing(skew and bow control)
Printed design control
Fabric width setting
Application of finishing chemicals
Drying

SATVEER SINGH 64
Process stages:-

SATVEER SINGH 65
Process Description:-

✓The selvedges are held by two endless


chains typically 40 to 60 metres in length and
the fabric is conveyed through a series of
heated compartments or bays. Hot air is
directed onto the fabric equally from above
and below.
The selvedges are held either on pins about 5
mm long mounted in base plates or by clips
that grip the selvedges between smooth
surfaces. Lubrication of the chain is important
and this takes place automatically during
running. The lubricant must be completely
stable during continuous high-temperature
operation.

SATVEER SINGH 66
PROCESS FLOW:-

Batch dancer j-scre dander break roll


guider chemical trough mangle
pressure dancer mahlo( 2 bow and 3
skew roll) dancer guide roll under
feed over feed anglar photo cell
selvedge guard drum pulley heating
chamber(5-8 chamber depend on the type of
machine)bow setting roll moisture roll
guider cooling cylinder out j-scre plaiter
guider batching.

SATVEER SINGH 67
Some features:-
Stenter speeds range from only 10 m/min
for heavyweight furnishings up to 100
m/min for lightweight dressgoods.
Overfeed is frequently necessary to
compensate for warp way stretch in
previous processing and to minimise
shrinkage in washing and dry-cleaning.

The speed of the fabric through the stenter is


controlled by the motion of the pin chain,
but the fabric entry can be adjusted
independently by the entry rolle
Temperature uniformity over the entire area
of fabric is ensured.Too low temperatures
do not allow a good setting while too high
temperatures and too long setting times
cause yellowing (PA and elastic fibres), stiff
hand (acrylics), and loss of elasticity (elastic
fibres).

SATVEER SINGH 68
Heat setting:-
The setting temperature used is above Tg.In heat
setting, inter-chain bonds, such as hydrogen and dipole
bonds, break. This allows the molecular chains to move
and adopt new, stress-free positions. New
intermolecular bonds then form with the fabric in a
relaxed condition at the setting temperature. After
cooling, the polymer molecules in the filaments
become frozen in place. The new bonds are stable up to
the heat setting temperature.
The reorganized internal polymer
structure, and the material’s
dimensions, will be stable.

SATVEER SINGH 69
SKEW AND BOW

Bow/skew

SATVEER SINGH 70
List of stenter machines in bottom plant

There are 6 stenter machine which are


based on various heating media:
Bruckner-1,yamuna,monfort(Oil
based)
Bruckner-2,Bruckner-3,bruckner-4(gas
based)

SATVEER SINGH 71
Curing machine-

Curing is a process that refers to the


toughening or hardening of a polymer
material by cross-linking of polymer chains,
brought about by heat or chemical additives.
In bottom processing plant there are 2
curing machine
Manufacturer-Monfort.

NOTE:-
The Fabric in the chamber is of 150 metre.
Speed of machine+30-70 m/min
The curing time is 5 minutes.
▪ Process flow:-
Batch guide Roller In J-scray
Dancer guider Dancer Chambers (2
heating) gudie roller Out j-Scray
plaiter Batching

SATVEER SINGH 72
Standar process parameter of monfort
curing machine:-

Type of TEMPERATURE speed(in


process m/min)

Set display required On


thermop
aper
Wrinkle 160+- 160+- 150 149 35
free /10 /10
finish
Teflon 160+- 160+- 160 149 28
and /10 /10
water
repellent
Coating 160+- 160+- 150 148 47
/10 /10

ETI 150+- 150+- 150 149 47


/10 /10

SATVEER SINGH 73
MONFORT SANFORISING MACHINE

In sanforizing machine the mechanical


shrinkage takes place and that shrinkage
process takes between the rubber belt and
the heated shrinking cylinder
The pressure roll presses the rubber belt
against the heated shrinking cylinder and the
rubber belt is thereby stretched .leaving this
nip point the pressure is releived and the
rubber belt contracts.The fabric between the
rubber belt and the heated shrinking
cylinder has to follow this contraction of
thebelt and thereby shrinks.
Changing the rubber belt pressure the
changes will be in the fabric shrinkage.
Pressure in blanket=2-3 bar
Speed of coarse fabric=60-70m/min
Temperature of rubber=110“C

SATVEER SINGH 74
FLOW DIAGRAM OF SANFORIZING
MACHINE

batching(infeed) guide roller damping


roller water spray rubber belt steam
cylinder blanket steam drum
cooling cylinder

The work of palmer unit is to stablize the


shrinkage which occur in rubber belt
chamber.

SATVEER SINGH 75
Schematic Process

The process of Sanforizing can be described by the


following schematic below:
Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other
moistening device and is moistened by water and/or
steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote
shrink ability within the fabric.
Fabric is moistened in such a way that every single
thread achieves a moisture content of
approximately 15%.
Above step allows compression of the fabric with
very little resistance.
When the fabric passes through the clip expander
(C), we obtain the required width. The clip
expander also transports the fabric to the most
important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit
(indicated by arrows in above figure).
In the close-up of above figure, we see the endless
rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R)
between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder
(RB), we obtain an elastically stretching of the
rubber belt surface.

SATVEER SINGH 76
Contd.
The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the
more the surface is stretched. This point of
squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or
the nip point.
Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone.
When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber
belt recovers itself and the surface returns to
its original length carrying the fabric with it.
The effect of this action is a shorting of the
warp yarn which packs the filling yarns
closer together. At this actual moment,
shrinkage occurs.
After compaction within the rubber belt
unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the
fibers are locked in their shrunken state by
removing the moisture from the fabric.

SATVEER SINGH 77
List of sanforizing machines in bottom
plant
There are 4 monfort sanforizing machine.
The production per shift is 10000-12000m.

Defects
- Rubber blanket(impression of rubber).
-lining of squeeze roll on the fabric.
Removal of defects :-
-If rubber blanket is occuring then lower then
lower the pressure in the rubber belt
chamber.
-If lining of roll is occuring on the roll then
lower the tension of the roll.

SATVEER SINGH 78
▪Bruckner relax dryer

The relaxation dryer serves for the


drying, relaxing and shrinking of
knitted fabric in tubular and open-
width form but can be used also for the
treatment of woven fabric. Residual
shrinkage is reduced to a minimum
and the fabric gets a very good
dimensional stability across the length
and width and a fleecy, soft and
voluminous touch. Depending on the
customer’s requests and the needed
capacity, the dryer is available with
one, two or three fabric passages.

SATVEER SINGH 79
Standard process parameter of relax dryer

Type of Temperature Speed Mangle Overfeed %


process in “c in(m/min) pressure set

Normal As per As per normal 50+-/10


finish weight of weight of
fabric fabric

Drying 140+-/30 30+-/15 normal 30+-/10


process

Stretching 140+-/30 30+-/15 normal 30+-/10


process

SATVEER SINGH 80
CONTD

Weight of fabric Temp. In “c speed


(gsm)

60-160 140+-/10 30+-/10

160-280 150+-/10 20+-/10

280 and above 160+-/10 25+-/5

SATVEER SINGH 81
Advantages and technical data
Optimum shrinkage of the fabric due to the
sinusoid, tumble-like relaxation movements of the
fabric
Smooth, voluminous hand
Highest production capacity with minimum energy
consumption
Additional energy savings up to 35 % are possible
(depending on the type of process, fabric and
machine configuration)
Longer dwell times in the dryer zones due to a
maximum of air circulation over the surface and
optimum freedom of fabric movement between the
transport belts
Optimum and reproducible fabric quality thanks to
the precise and process-oriented adjustability of the
temperatures and air circulation intensity
Option: Pre-stentering zone for wet overspreading
and pre-relaxation of open-width fabric
Option: Automatic lint screen cleaning, moisture
control, fabric moisture measurement and machine
speed control

SATVEER SINGH 82
Airo-24 machine
Name of manufacturer-Biancalani

The principle of airo machine:


Fabric moves at very high speed, suspended
and transported by the air flow, in alternate
directions... this is the heart of airo
machine.The special grids placed in front of
the channel openings allow the fabric to
discharge the accumulated kinetic energy
while it acquires body, volume, drape and
better stability, getting rid of any excess of
humidity at the same time

NOTE: Generally the printed fabric which


is stiffer is passed through this machine to
make it more softer then it is passed to
stenter and sanforize machine.

SATVEER SINGH 83
Technical data

Production speed up to 50 m/min


Processing speed up to 2500 m/min(93
mph or 150 km/h)
500 kg/h evaporation capacity (up to
750 kg/h)
Working widths up to 360 cm
The dwell time (to and fro) for
beetling process =2.5-3.5 seconds.

SATVEER SINGH 84
A study project Sorona
fabrics

A
PROJECT WORK DONE AT

SATVEER SINGH
Giani Zail Singh Campus College
of Engineering &Technology

87
SATVEER SINGH 85
INTRODUCTION

DuPont Sorona, renewably sourced fiber for


the Indian textile market, addresses the four
principal segments of dynamic fit denim,
permanent flex woven, easy stretch woven, and
ultra soft knits. DuPont Sorona continues to
develop partners throughout the value chain to
bring new offerings and products for a wide
variety of end uses to the market. It recently
organised seminars in New Delhi and
Bangalore to focus on applications developed
by Indian mills and textile companies.
At these two shows, partner mills featured
Sorona-based products, including Arvind,
Raymond UCO, KG Denim, Vardhman,
Banswara Syntex, Suditi, Raymond Zambaiti,
Precot Meridian and JCT. Some of the initial
developments from select Surat mills working
on sarees and ladies wear material segments
were also on display.

SATVEER SINGH 86
“New applications, fabrics and end-uses that
feature Sorona continue to be developed
through our network of fiber and fabric
manufacturers. The key to this new
development is partners dedicated to working
with fibers that can produce high quality
garments while reducing the impact that
textiles have on the environment,” said Gowri
Nagarajan, business leader, Industrial
Biosciences, DuPont India. “Sorona’s
versatility and flexibility allow it to be extruded
into a variety of fibers suitable for a broad
range of end uses”.
DuPont Sorona renewably sourced fiber
continues the company legacy in fiber and
fabric innovation. These new applications
continue to highlight the unique combination of
performance attributes and environmental
benefits that Sorona providesWhen used in
dynamic fit denim and easy stretch woven,
Sorona provides denim and woven fabric ...

SATVEER SINGH 87
Objective
• Sorona® contains 37% renewably sourced
ingredients by weight.
• Production of Sorona requires 30% less
energy than production of an equal amount of
PA6 or Nylon6.
• Production of Sorona reduces CO2 emission
63% over the production of an equal
amount of PA6 or Nylon6.
Unique molecular structure and crystalline
morphology giving
unique properties in fibers, plastics and films.
Strain deformation
occurs in crystalline regions, allowing full
recovery.
Tough
Stretch with recovery
Resilient
Soft
Thermo-formable

SATVEER SINGH 88
Structure
2GT, PET

SATVEER SINGH 89
Target Market:
•Women’s Stretch Swimwear
Softness – FDY silky and drape – DTY
cottony aesthetic
Bright Colors with good fastness
Good printability (heat-transfer)
Fast drying
Chlorine-proof
Warp knit with elastane – tricot, generalissimo
40 denier Sorona FDY with 40 denier
elastane 180 – 220g/m2
40 denier Sorona® FDY with 70 denier
elastane 240 – 260g/m2 shaping
fabric
Circular Knit with elastane – plated single
jersey
 70 denier FDY Sorona® with 40 denier
elastane 180 – 220g/m2
 70 denier FDY Sorona® with 55 denier
elastane 220 – 240 g/m2 shaping
fabric

SATVEER SINGH 90
Men’s Rigid Swimwear – Board Shorts –
Crosses over from Surf to Skate to Street
Wear
Softness – cottony aesthetic
Bright Colors with good fastness
Good printability (heat-transfer)
Fast drying
Chlorine-proof
 Woven fabrics – without elastane – plain
weave
with sanded finish dyed solid colors or
prepared
for print
 150 denier Sorona DTY filling across 70
denier FDY Sorona warp
150 denier Sorona DTY filling across 150
denier FDY Sorona warp
 Comfort stretch without elastane
 Bleachable
 Softness with cottony aesthetic

SATVEER SINGH 91
PROCESS TO MACHINE -

PAD DRY

THERMOSOL

REACTANCE CLEARANCE

CPB

ROTATION

REACTIVE WASH

BRUCKNER(ANTI FOAMING FINISH)

SANFO
SATVEER SINGH 92
Machine method-
Pad dry-
Fabric input- this is the starting point of pad dry
machine here we inlet the fabric by batch.
▪Feeding rollers- by using these rollers we feed fabric
inside the j scary
▪J scary- this is a part in which we store the fabric
also increase/decrease speed of j scary
▪Padding mangle- mangle a combination of rollers
which maintain by pressers also maintain pickup of
machine
▪IR chambers- chambers have high temperature
which is maintain by using high conductive material
bricks IR chambers are use for reduce migration.
▪Steam chambers- in pd m/c two chambers are held .
Fabric came in chambers for dry by steam which is
develop by blowers.
✓Chamber 1- 120 to 140°c
✓Chamber 2- 140 to 160°c
▪Cooling cylinders- in pad dry machine have four
cooling cylinders which is use to reduce the temp of
fabric which out from steam chambers
▪Checking point- this is part where we check the
before parameter of fabric and also check the defects
on fabric..
SATVEER SINGH 93
Before parameters-
✓Check batch card ( shade no , short no) of material to
be dyed.
✓Check position of colour tanks whether colour is
ready are not
✓Check material stain, crease, hole etc before dyeing.
✓Check all the cloth guider working or not and careful
abut the all air pressers , water availability before
starting m/c.
✓Confirm cleaning of the m/c thoroughly before
starting.
▪After parameters-
✓In after parameters we check the defects in the dyed
fabric like stain , hole , shade variation , crease ,csv
etc.
✓If shade is lighter then we go for redyeing or shade
is darker we can use stripping process.
✓For csv problem we check mangle pressers at lift
middle right position by taking carbon imprecation.
✓Same time crease are come because rollers tension
are not maintain
✓If selection of dyes are not maintain then tonal
variation is seen on the fabric. For tonal variation there
is no farther operation to remove .

SATVEER SINGH 94
Observation --
In this project I am take a short no and
follow this short no in dyeing process and lab
preparations.
Dyeing trial simple ..PDG NO-99673 with
shade no HDC770822,HDC853068 IN LAB
In lab check the variation in DE at
180,185,190,195,200,210 degree tempr.. And
take 210 as standard which is given blow..

SATVEER SINGH 95
THERMOSOL-
SORT NO SHADE TEMP DE DL DC DH
NO

99673 HDC7708 180 1.8 0.3 -0.6 1.67


22

185 1.89 0.42 -0.86 1.63

190 1.37 0.15 0.09 1.36

195 1.27 0.08 0.04 1.27

99673 200 .93 -0.05 0.07 0.93

99673 HDC8530 180 2.61 0.36 -1.8 1.85


68

185 2.42 0.1 -1.55 1.85

190 2.29 -0.01 -1.41 1.8

195 1.6 0.04 -1.26 0.99

SATVEER SINGH 96

99673 200 1.28 -0.14 -1.06 0.7


CPB MACHINE
SORT SHADE TEMP DE DL DC DH
NO NO

99673 HDC770 180 0.38 0.11 -0.32 -0.18


822

99673 HDC770 190 0.58 0.47 -0.43 0.12


822

99673 HDC770 200 0.55 0.38 -0.37 0.14


822

99673 HDC853 180 0.52 0.24 -0.14 0.44


068

99673 HDC853 190 0.34 0.15 -0.04 0.3


068

99673 HDC853 200 0.35 -0.07 -0.25 0.24


068

 After checking those physical properties of


short no-99673 . This is the bland of 65%
cotton and 35% sarona fabrics..

SATVEER SINGH 97
 The dyeing process are done on the pad dry
and cpb machine by passing two times first
polyester part pad on pad dry then pad on cpb
machine.
In this thermo sol process at temp 190 value of
DE near about to zero . It mains the dye
substaintivity is good for this shade no -
770822.
Physical test-
TEST UNIT RESULT

Warp/waft Threads/inch 164*64

Fabric weight g/cm2 246

Tensile strength Kg/weft Kg/warp 50 54

Tear strength g/warp g/weft 1260 2330

Dimensional stability Warp% Weft% 2.5 2.0

SATVEER SINGH 98
In cotton polyester blend fabric it is
most impt to get good prediction for
dyeing process and try to get small value
of DE as possible as.
.The pad m/c ,thermo sol temp at 220.
surprisingly I observed that fabric can
be pad at 190 . When I did this
experiment on bulk and get same result
like shade fastness etc..
After that I did physical and chemical
test and get those results.
Stretch-11.6%
Growth-2%

SATVEER SINGH 99
WASHING PARAMETERS-

SATVEER SINGH 10
0
Conclusion -
 Before going to dyeing any cotton polyester
fabric like sarona try to check all the
parameters of the RFD fabric..like absorbency
tegawa , ph, CIE etc…its ply very impt role in
dyeing process so always careful about those..
Maintain temp in steamer chambers at left
middle and right position .if its very the csv is
coming..

SATVEER SINGH 10
1
SATVEER SINGH 10
2

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