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instructables

Build Your Own CNC Milling Machine

by BonJiba

Now that I'm retired, I have time to create things that interest and passion to do so, as so many have done
I've always wanted to, like this CNC milling machine. I for me.
did a lot of research here on Instructables, which
provided me a lot of ideas of how I wanted mine to Again, I'm no expert, just a hobbyist as many of you
look and work. I have no experience in this area, so the are and have a lot to learn yet. The choices I made
project itself was fun and enjoyable to see if I could here may not be right for everyone, but worked for
actually do it! My goal was to make one that was me.
accurate, reliable, with a reasonable work area and
cheap as possible. Accurate, yes, it can retrace the Supplies:
same path over and over, consistently. Reliable, not
1/2" MDF
sure yet as I have only been using it for a month or so.
Work area 32.5" by 18.5". Cheap, perhaps, all in at $400
Supported Rails and Ball Screws
excluding laptop which I already had.

Arduino UNO, GRBL Shield


By the way I already have an ANET A6 3D printer
which I love. So I gured how hard can this be, LOL!
NEMA 17 Steppers
My main goal for submitting this instructable is not to
Dewalt 660 cutout tool
provide every single step (that's too complicated for
me), but to help inspire those out there with the

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Step 1: Tools

I decided to make mine out of 1/2" MDF since its little pieces like brackets, etc. Many of those could be
cheaper than extruded aluminum. Thus, I only needed made out of wood or metal brackets from the
conventional wood working tools. I used a table saw, hardware store.
miter saw, drill and bits and a drill block for
perpendicular holes, since I don't have a drill press. A soldering iron to solder all the wire.

3D Printer is optional; I designed and printed many

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Step 2: The Mechanical Build

Because this is my own design I had no plans to follow the 2D drawing on a standard computer printer in
nor did I create any. The rails dictated what the size of actual size. I would then use a center punch to mark
the unit would be. The Y rails are 1000mm, X rails are the center of each hole and then use a hand drill to
600mm and the Z rails are 300mm. drill them out as seen in the 3rd and fourth picture
above.
I started with the base and built a torsion style box
which makes it very rigid and strong. I would cut a After it was all together, I took it all apart and put a
piece of 1/2" MDF and keep adding to the puzzle. couple coats of polyurethane on it, those are the
There are ribs or reinforcements anywhere its needed pieces in the seventh picture.
to keep the MDF from exing. There is no ex in the
entire machine An im po rt a nt no t e : I took a considerable amount
of time making sure everything was perfectly aligned
The base was easy...now to all the other tidbits... and square to each other, especially the rails. This way
there was absolutely no binding and everything
To get 25 holes drilled with some sort of accuracy I moved very smoothly.
would draw the board layout in Fusion 360 and print

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Step 3: Electrical

Since the gantry, etc. slid with such ease I decided to prevent false triggers on the limit switches and Z-
try NEMA 17 motors (only 92 oz. holding torque). With probe as seen in the second picture. So all that, plus
those motors I can move any axis at 3200mm/min or an emergency switch and fan was packed into that
125 inches per minute and cut at 1600mm/min little box.
without the motors missing a step. I haven't tried to
cut any faster as that seems fast enough for me. I ran all the wires in cable drag chains, motor and limit
switches together thus the need for the opticoupler
I used an Arduino UNO, running GRBL and a CNC isolation.
GRBL Shield with 8825 drivers. I had no experience
with an Arduino (again, I'm old, LOL), but there are I used a 20V - 7A laptop type power supply for all the
may instructables here that will teach you! motors, etc. The actual draw is only about 2 Amps.

I did however design a board with 4 opticouplers to I used a Dewalt 660 cutout tool since its half the price

of a trim router, has the same capabilities and comes I made a slide out drawer and mounted a docking
with both 1/8" and 1/4" collets. I removed the nose station for the laptop. I use a wireless keyboard with
cone and designed and 3D printed the mount for the built track pad as a remote pendant.
tool.

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Step 4: Software

I use Fusion 360 to design my models and use their Of course the CNC is out in the garage, so instead of
built-in CAM to set up the tool paths. I run CNCjs on waiting out there, I use remote desktop software to
the laptop which sends the g-code to the Arduino. see the desktop of the laptop from inside my house
CNCjs can use a USB connected camera to display the on my desktop PC. I can then see how much time is
picture right in its user interface. Again, I'm no expert left and see it actually milling too.
as these are the only programs I have ever used. They
seem to meet my needs.

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Step 5: Finishing Touches

I then realized I had no place to put the CNC machine a hinged cover that tilts back. Its much quieter and
and it weighs in at 120 pounds, so I had to build a there is no more dust outside of the box! Inside its a
rolling base. Then after working with it brie y, I mess, LOL. I also milled the removable fence, cam
realized it made way too much dust and noise. I clamps and hold-down clamps on this machine.
gured I could address both of those with a cover. I
bought art foam board at the dollar store and created

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Step 6: Conclusion

I thought I would have to redesign and rebuild this Again, its almost impossible to provide every detail
several times to get it right, but luckily I haven't. It and plans since so many of the items depend on each
works just ne for me. I still have a lot to learn about other as you build it. But please let it be known that it
modeling, bits and tool paths. But in the mean time I can be done as so many others have made similar
have designed and created these projects. The rst ones.
two pictures are a laptop stand and the rest are some
plaques. The video is this machine milling some HDPE. Thanks for viewing and if I can answer any questions
I milled these ags and have it published in another please ask.
Instructables - Click Here

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https://youtu.be/LwBuTgBlDNs

This is fantastic! I am a highschool student (definitely not retired), but I may try to make a similar
machine. I wish I had the templates for all your parts, but going off the pictures, I hope I can get
similar results.

Great job with this!!!


Thanks, I wish I had templates too, LOL. Basically everything was designed in my head around
some components I had. So every part is customized to every other part. So, If anything in that
chain of parts changes it affects everything down the path. So I was very patient and progressed
forward slowly making sure it fit my overall plan. But feel free to hit me up with any questions in
your process. Thanks and good luck!
Love this project and have similar background but in digital areas of electronics. I have all the
electronics and steppers ready and like your base frame design. I used Arduino Mega and Marlin
software with Nema 23 steppers. Although I have a frame to use I think your sliding gantry is a
better design. Great project thanks, and keep up the good work!!
Sorry I posted my question on the wrong section. It’s a very neat project. Very inspirational .
Keep up the good work /G\

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One suggestion: print a vacuum shoe for the router, and connect your shop vac while milling, that
will greatly improve the dust collection Here's a bunch: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:dust_shoe
Thanks...that will be next then!

GREAT JOB!....

Thanks...

Tanks for a really nice tutorial. I can't wait to get retired some day (most likely not until 30+ years:).
Can I ask what the total budget for the project was? Regards
My budget and what I spent were not quite the same, LOL. I was hoping to do it for about $300, but
I spent $400 dollars to make the CNC, including the router, electrical and all hardware, everything,
except the rolling cart and enclosure which was probably only another $40. Thanks
How do you keep it from drilling into the bed?

I have a replaceable spoil board on top of the platform. The spoil board has T-nuts inserted from
the bottom side that I can use with either the cam clamps or hold downs. The only time it can cut
down into the bed (spoil board), is If I'm cutting down through the stock. To get my spoil board to
last longer I usually use something very thin under the stock and I only cut down below the stock
about 0.2mm. I hope that answered you question
I absolutely LOVE this! Great job! I've been wanting to build one.

Thanks...

Thanks!

Really like the look of this! I'm also researching to make my own, once I get "the workshop"
finished.

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