Tsl4078e1 PDF

4006/8 In-line Gas
1
General information 1
Introduction
The 4006 and 4008 gas engines are a family of 6 and 8 cylinder turbocharged gas engines, designed by
Perkins Engines Company Limited, Stafford, a world leader in the design and manufacture of high-
performance gas engines. They form part of the 4000 Series range of engines.
Perkins approved assembly and quality standards, together with the latest technology, have been applied to
the manufacture of your engine to give you reliable and economic power.
Most of the general information included in the relevant User’s Handbook (Chapters 1 to 6) has not been
repeated in this Workshop Manual. The two publications should be used together as references to the User’s
Handbook are made for certain operations.
When an anti-knock system is fitted refer to the Manual supplied by the manufacturer “Gas Engine Technology
Bv”.
To ensure that you use the relevant information for your specific engine type, refer to "Engine identification"
on page 3.
The purpose of this manual is to enable the operator to carry out routine servicing of the engine. Before
undertaking any such work the relevant chapter should be read and completely understood.
Users are respectfully advised that, in the interests of safety, it is their responsibility to employ competent
persons to operate, maintain and service the equipment.
The information contained within this manual is based on that available at time of going to print. In line with
Perkins Engines Company Limited, Stafford policy of continual development and improvement, that
information may change at any time without notice. The engine user should therefore ensure that he has the
latest information before starting work.
Special tools are required to perform certain operations. A list of those required for the operations described
in this manual is given in Chapter 16, Special tools. Reference to the relevant special tools is also made at the
beginning of each operation, along with those which are universally available (UA) and any additional specialist
supplied equipment (SP) required.
Operators who are not equipped to undertake major repairs are urged to consult their Perkins distributor.
Torque settings and Wear and renewal limits for specific components are provided in Chapter 2,
Specifications. Reference should be made to these where indicated in the manual.
Oil change intervals may be changed according to operating experience by agreement with Perkins Engines
Company Limited, Stafford and subject to oil analysis being carried out at regular intervals.
Read and remember the "Safety precautions" on page 4. They are given for your own protection and must be
observed at all times.
Continued
Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 1
This document has been printed from SPI². Not for Resale
1 4006/8 In-line Gas
If any doubt exists regarding the installation, use or application of the engine, the Installation Manual should
be consulted. For further advice contact the Applications department at Perkins Engines Company Limited,
Stafford.
Please quote the engine type and serial number with all your enquiries. The type and serial number are on a
plate fitted to the crankcase.
In addition to the general safety precautions, danger to both operator and engine are highlighted by the
following conventions:
Warning! This indicates that there is a possible danger to the person (or the person and engine).
Caution: This indicates that there is a possible danger to the engine.
Note: Is used where the information is important, but there is not a danger.
2 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002
4006/8 In-line Gas 1
Engine identification
The engine number and its build specification details are given on its data plate (A1) which is fitted to the right
side of the crankcase by the oil filters.
A reference code and engine description is given in the table below.
Reference
Description
Code
6 cylinder, in-line, 4 stroke, turbocharged, spark ignition gas engine, with water based engine coolant
4006TESI
and oil cooler, raw water pump and separate cooling system for charge air intercooler. With NOx
200 LC
emission of 200g/GJ or less.
4006TESI
140 LC
emission of less than 140g/GJ.
4006TESI
140 HC
emission of less than 140g/GJ, and higher thermal efficiency than the 4006TESI 140 LC.
4006TESI
90 HC
4008TESI
200 LC
emission of 200g/GJ or less.
4008TESI
140 LC
4008TESI
140 HC
emission of less than 140g/GJ, and higher thermal efficiency than the 4006TESI 140 LC.
4008TESI
90 HC
Safety precautions
General
For safe and reliable operation of the engine it is very important that these safety precautions, and those
Warnings and Cautions given throughout this manual, are observed, and where necessary the special tools
indicated are used.
All safety precautions should be read and understood before operating or servicing the engine.
Improper operation or maintenance procedures are dangerous and could result in accidents, injury or death.
The operator should check before beginning an operation that all the basic safety precautions have been
carried out to prevent accidents occurring.
You must also refer to the local regulations in the country of use.
Note: Some items only apply to specific applications.
Guards
z Ensure that guards are fitted over exposed rotating parts, hot surfaces, air intakes, belts or live electrical
terminals (high and low tension).
Protection equipment
z Ensure that correct protection equipment is worn at all times.
z Always wear protective gloves when using inhibitors or anti-freeze, removing the pressure cap from the
radiator or heat exchanger filler, changing the lubricating oil/filter or changing the electrolyte in the battery.
z Always wear ear protection when working in an enclosed engine room.
z Always wear suitable eye protection when using an air pressure line.
z Always wear protective boots when working on the engine.
z Always wear protective headgear when working on or underneath the engine.
Naked flames
z Ensure that no smoking or naked flames are lit when checking battery electrolyte, working in the engine
room or when operating or servicing the engine.
Fuel/oil pipes
z Ensure that all pipes are regularly checked for leaks.
z Ensure that all pipes and the surrounding area are regularly checked for spilt oil (and cleaned up where
necessary).
z Always apply suitable barrier cream to hands before any work is carried out.
Gas pipes
z Always check for gas/air mixture leaks.
z Ensure that the gas line and valves meet local safety standards.
z Ensure that the gas line pressure is correct.
Shutdown equipment
z Always test that the protection system is working correctly.
z When stopping the engine in case of overspeed, high water temperature or low oil pressure should be
provided.
z For heat sensors, methane and smoke protectors should be provided (if applicable).
z Always be in a position to stop the engine (even remotely).
Start-up
z When working on the engine always ensure that the battery has been disconnected, and that any other
means of accidental start-up has been disabled.
z Never start the engine with the governor linkage disconnected.
z Do not hold the stop lever in the run position when starting the engine.
z Always hold the stop lever in the stop position when cranking only.
Electrical equipment
z Always check that electrics are earthed to local safety standards.
z Always disconnect the electrical supply to the jacket water heater (if fitted) before working on the engine.
z Take care to prevent any danger of electric shock.
z Never re-adjust the settings of electronic equipment without reference to the Workshop Manual.
Freezing or heating components
z Always use heat resistant gloves and use the correct handling equipment.
Exhaust system
z Check the system for leaks.
z Ensure that the engine room is correctly ventilated.
z Check that all the guards are fitted.
z Check that the pipework allows the exhaust gas to escape upwards.
z Check that the pipework is supported.
Stopping the engine
1 Disengage the engine load.
2 Run the engine on NO LOAD for 5 to 7 minutes before stopping.
Note: This will allow the circulating lubricating oil to dissipate heat from the bearings, pistons, etc. It will also
allow the turbochargers, which run at a very high speed, to slow down while there is still oil flow through the
bearings.
Ensure that the engine is stopped before performing any of the following operations:
z Changing the lubricating oil.
z Filling or topping up the cooling system.
z Beginning any repair work on the engine.
z Adjusting belts (where fitted).
z Adjusting bridge pieces / valve clearance.
z Changing spark plugs.
z Changing air or oil filters.
z Tightening any fixing bolts.
Flammable fluids
z Ensure that these are never stored near the engine.
z Ensure that they are never used near a naked light.
Clothing
z Do not wear loose clothing, ties, jewellery, etc.
z Always wear steel toe cap shoes/boots.
z Always wear the correct head, eye and ear protection.
z Always wear suitable overalls.
z Always replace a spillage contaminated overall immediately.
Lifting heavy components
z Always use the correct lifting equipment.
z Never work alone.
z Always wear a helmet, if the weight is above head height.
De-scaling solution
z Always wear both hand and eye protection when handling.
z Always wear overalls and correct footwear.
Waste disposal
z Do not leave oil covered cloths on or near the engine.
z Do not leave loose items on or near the engine.
z Always provide a fireproof container for oil contaminated cloths.
Note: Most accidents are caused by failure to observe basic safety precautions and can be prevented by
recognising potentially dangerous situations before an accident occurs. While there are many potential
hazards that can occur during the operation of the engine which cannot be always be anticipated, and thus a
warning cannot be included to cover every possible circumstance that might involve a potential hazard, by
following these basic principles the danger can be minimised.
Dangers from used engine oils
Prolonged and repeated contact with mineral oil will result in the removal of natural oils from the skin, leading
to dryness, irritation and dermatitis. The oil also contains potentially harmful contaminants which may result in
skin cancer.
Adequate means of skin protection and washing facilities should be readily available.
The following is a list of 'Health Protection Precautions', suggested to minimise the risk of contamination.
1 Avoid prolonged and repeated contact with used engine oils.
2 Wear protective clothing, including impervious gloves where necessary.
3 Do not put oily rags into pockets.
4 Avoid contaminating clothes, particularly underwear, with oil.
5 Overalls must be cleaned regularly. Discard unwashable clothing and oil impregnated footwear.
6 First aid treatment should be obtained immediately for open cuts and wounds.
7 Apply barrier creams before each period of work to aid the removal of mineral oil from the skin.
8 Wash with soap and hot water, or alternatively use a skin cleanser and a nail brush, to ensure that all oil is
removed from the skin. Preparations containing lanolin will help replace the natural skin oils which have been
removed.
9 Do NOT use petrol, kerosene, diesel fuel, thinners or solvents for washing the skin.
10 If skin disorder appears, medical advice must be taken.
11 Degrease components before handling if practicable.
12 Where there is the possibility of a risk to the eyes, goggles or a face shield should be worn. An eye wash
facility should be readily available.
Environmental protection
There is legislation to protect the environment from the incorrect disposal of used lubricating oil. To ensure that
the environment is protected, consult your Local Authority who can give advice.
Danger from ‘fluorosilicone’ (Viton) ‘O’ ring seals

All of the engines ‘O’ ring seals are made from fluorosilicone material.
It is a safe material under normal conditions of operation, but if it is burned the extremely dangerous
hydroflouric acid is produced.
If it is necessary to come into contact with components which have been burnt, follow the precautions below:
z Allow the components to cool.
z Use Neoprene gloves and a face mask.
z Wash the contaminated area with a calcium hydroxide solution and then with clean water.
z Disposal of gloves and components which are contaminated must be in accordance with local regulations.
Caution: If there is contamination of the skin or eyes, wash the affected area with a continuous supply of clean
water. Obtain immediate medical attention.
Practical information for cleaning components
Use suitable gloves for protection when components are degreased.
Keep the work area clean and ensure that components are protected from dirt and debris. Ensure that dirt does
not contaminate the fuel system.
Before a component is removed from the engine, clean around the component and ensure that all openings,
disconnected hoses and pipes are sealed.
Remove, clean and inspect each component carefully. If it useable, put it in a clean dry place until needed. Ball
and roller bearings must be cleaned thoroughly and inspected. If the bearings are usable, they must be flushed
in low viscosity oil and protected with clean paper until needed.
Before the components are assembled, ensure that the area is free from dust and dirt as possible. Inspect each
component immediately before it is fitted, wash all pipes and ports, and pass dry compressed air through them
before connections are made.
4006/8 In-line Gas
2
Specifications 2
Basic engine data

The figures quoted are based on 6 and 8 cylinder vertical, water cooled turbocharged, intercooled engines, set
to meet the requirements of ISO 3046/1.
For full technical specifications refer to the relevant engine Technical Data sheet.
Refer also to “Engine specifications” in Chapter 1 of the User’s Handbook.
General
4006TESI LC 4008TESI LC
Engine model
4006TESI HC 4008TESI HC
Cycle 4 stroke spark ignition
Configuration In-line
Bore 160 mm
Stroke 190 mm
Cubic capacity 22,921 litres 30,561 litres
Compression ratio 9.5:1 (LC), 11.5:1 (HC)
Rotation Anti-clockwise looking on flywheel end
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-4-7-6-8-5-2-3
Cylinder numbering Cylinder 1 furthest from flywheel
Injection timing See engine nameplate
Valve clearances (engine cold) Exhaust and inlet 0,40 mm (0.016”)
m/s (ft/min) Engine rpm
Piston speeds 7,60 (1496) 1200
9,50 (1870) 1500
Engine weight
4006TESI LC 4008TESI LC
Engine model
4006TESI HC 4008TESI HC
Dry weight (engine) 2420 kg 3350 kg
Dry weight (engine including charge cooler and wet
2574 kg 3558 kg
exhaust manifolds)
Specific torque settings
Warning! It is essential that the correct length of screw or bolt is used. Insufficient thread may result in the
thread being stripped. Excessive thread may result in bottoming in a blind hole or catching on adjacent
components.
Cylinder head group
Torque tension
Description Thread size
lbf ft Nm
Cylinder head bolt (1) M24 530 723
Rocker shaft capscrew and nut M16 90 120
Rocker adjuster nut inlet/exhaust M12 35 50
Rocker box capscrews M10 50 70
Inlet manifold bolt M10 35 50
Exhaust manifold bolt M10 50 70
Turbocharger V-band clamp nuts M8 8 11
(1) Cylinder head bolts to be lubricated under the heads, under the washers and on the threads with PBC (Poly-Butyl-Cuprysil) grease.
All other bolt threads only to be lubricated with clean engine oil.
Crankcase and crankshaft groups

Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Main bearing bolt (1) M24 580 783
Bolts sump to crankcase M10 40 57
82 110
Connecting rod bolts (1) M16
and angle 60°
Torsional vibration damper bolts M12 120 160
Flywheel bolt M16 250 340
TV Damper retaining plate M16 250 340
Balance weight bolt M16 250 340
Fan drive pulley bolts M16 250 340
Piston cooling jet bolt M10 7 10
Flywheel housing bolt M10 35 50
Crankcase side bolts M16 200 270
(1) Bolt and threads must be lubricated with clean engine oil.
Lubricating oil pump

Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Bolts, pump housing to gearcase plate M10 35 50
Thin nut gear to drive shaft M24 175 237
Camshaft group
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Camshaft gear bolt M12 110 150
Camshaft thrust plate bolt M10 35 50
Camshaft follower housing capscrew M10 50 70
Cam follower housing bolt M10 35 50
Idler gear hub bolts M10 35 50
Coolant pump (if fitted)
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Pump drive gear nut M24 170 230
Coolant inlet to oil cooler bolts M10 35 50
Coolant outlet to gearcase bolts M10 35 50
Oil pump
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Pump drive gear nut M24 170 230
Engine feet
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Engine feet M12 70 95
Governor
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Control shaft mounting plate bolt M10 35 50
Radiator fan drive (if fitted)

Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
1/
2” BSW 37 50
Fan drive pulley taper lock bush grub screw 5/
8” BSW 124 170
Battery charging alternator (if fitted)

Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Drive pulley taper lock bush grub screw 3/
8” BSW 14 20
Drive pulley nut - 21 28
Ignition system
Torque tension
lbf ft Nm
Spark plug M18 x 1.5 35 50
Adaptor clamp capscrew - plug bush M12 100 136
Gear cover to mounting plate stud M10 35 47,5
General torque settings
Warning! It is essential that the correct length of screw or bolt is used. Insufficient thread may result in the
thread being stripped. Excessive thread may result in bottoming in a blind hole or catching on adjacent
components.
The following torque tensions are general for metric coarse threads and for grade 8.8 steel.
Torque tension
Thread size (mm)
lbf ft Nm
M8 21 28
M10 41 56
M10 (grade 12.9 steel only) 50 70
Note: These figures are based to BS3692.
Wear and renewal limits
Design size Wear limits

Description of components
mm in mm in
Service exchange unit recommended
Cylinder heads For reconditioning in a specialized workshop
refer to Chapter 3, Cylinder head assemby
11,0145 0.4336
Inlet and exhaust valve stem diameter 0,20 0.008
11,0095 0.4334
Valve spring free length 55,6 2.1889 55,6 2.1889
Piston ring gap
Top compression ring - parallel and taper type 0,60 0.024 0,85 0.033
Second compression ring 0,60 0.024 0,85 0.033
Oil control ring 0,60 0.024 0,85 0.033
Piston ring groove width
Top compression ring - taper type It is not possible to check a tapered ring groove
3,590 0.141
Top compression ring - parallel type
3,565 0.140
3,565 0.140
Second compression ring 0,254 0.010
3,540 0.139
6,065 0.2388
Oil control ring
6,040 0.2378
63,500 2.500
Gudgeon pin diameter
63,492 2.4997
0,15 0.0059
63,576 2.503
Small end bush bore
63,551 2.502
160,025 6.300
Cylinder liner bore 0,125 0.005
160,000 6.299
Crankshaft
118,013 4.6462
Crankpin journal diameter
117,993 4.6454
0,203 0.008
120,59 4.7476
Main bearing journal diameter
120,57 4.7470
0,51 0.020
Crankshaft end float 0,55 0.022
0,13 0.005
0,254 0.010
Undersize crankshaft bearings N/A
0,508 0.020
Camshaft
91,960 3.6204
Camshaft journal diameter 0,25 0.010
91,933 3.6194
0,25 0.010
Camshaft end float 0,30 0.012
0,10 0.004
Timing gears
0,20 0.008
Idler gear end float 0,25 0.010
0,10 0.004
0,375 0.15
Backlash in timing gears 0,50 0.020
0,125 0.005
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14
4006/8 In-line Gas
3
Cylinder head assemby 3
General information
In the event of failure, valve recession reaching an unacceptable limit or if the engine is undergoing a major
overhaul, service exchange cylinder heads can be fitted.
Note: These must be supplied by your Perkins distributor as specialised equipment is needed to recondition
them.
The inlet and exhaust manifolds, charge cooler, gas pipework etc need only be removed for major overhaul.
An individual cylinder head can be removed, as can all of the cylinder heads, without removal of the manifolds
etc, see Operation 3-8.
Detonation sensor wiring rail (if fitted)
To remove and to fit Operation 3-1
Warning! Turn off the gas and isolate the engine.

1 Disconnect the six knock sensor leads (A1) from the wiring rail (A2) to release the plugs.
2 Turn the locking ring (A3) anti-clockwise and pull the plug from the rail.
3 Disconnect the control box power cable plug (A4) from the wiring rail (flywheel end of the engine) to release
the plug. Turn the locking ring (A5) anti-clockwise and pull the plug from the rail.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and bolts (A6) from the sensor rail support brackets and lift the rail from the
engine.
5 Refit the wiring rail. Tighten the retaining bolts (A6) by hand. Check alignment and torque the retaining bolts
to 24 Nm (18 lbf ft).
6 Reconnect all sensor leads.
Valve gear oil feed pipework and ignition coil support assembly
To remove Operation 3-2
Note: This assembly is removed when cylinder heads are changed or at major overhaul.
1 Disconnect the spark plug leads (A1).
2 Remove the rocker box oil feed pipe (A2) and its steady clip (A3).
3 Remove the valve guide oil feed pipe (A4).
4 Disconnect the oil rail feed pipe (A5).
5 Unscrew the retaining collar (A6) and pull the multi-pin plug (A7) from the Altronic unit mounted on the inlet
manifold at the gearcase end of the engine.
6 Remove the oil feed post retaining bolts (A8) and lift off the oil feed rail and ignition coils as an assembly.
To fit Operation 3-3
1 Refit the oil feed rail and ignition coils as an assembly.

2 Fit and tighten the oil feed post retaining bolts (A8) by hand. Check alignment and torque to 24 Nm (18 lbf ft).
3 Refit all oil feed pipework. Align individually and tighten by hand to ensure an oil tight connection.
4 Reconnect spark plug leads (A1).
5 Reconnect the multi-pin plug (A7) and screw the retaining collar (A6) hand tight.
Inlet and exhaust manifolds
To remove the inlet manifolds Operation 3-4
Note: The removal of the inlet manifolds is normally undertaken at major overhaul.
1 Remove the oil rail and ignition coil assembly, see Operation 3-2.
2 Remove the gas pipework, regulator and ancillary equipment (refer to Chapter 11, Gas system).
3 Remove the charge cooler / inlet manifold assembly, see Operation 9-3.
4 Remove the inlet manifold flange retaining bolts and nuts (A1).
5 Remove the inlet manifold to cylinder head retaining bolts (A2) and lift off the individual sections of manifold.
To fit the inlet manifolds Operation 3-5
1 Refit the inlet manifold using new joints, with all retaining bolts hand tight.
2 Refit the charge cooler / inlet manifold assembly, see Operation 9-3.
3 Tighten retaining bolts (A1) and (A2) to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft) pulling the assembly squarely together.
4 Refit the oil rail / ignition coil assembly, see Operation 3-3.
5 Refit the gas pipework, regulator and ancillary equipment (refer to Chapter 11, Gas system).
To remove the exhaust manifolds Operation 3-6
Note: The removal of the exhaust manifolds is normally undertaken at major overhaul.
1 Remove the air vent pipework (A1) and (A2) from the exhaust manifold.
2 Remove the retaining bolts (A3) and lift off the coolant manifolds (A4).
3 Remove the retaining bolts (A5) and lift off the coolant pipes (A6).
4 Remove the exhaust manifold flange retaining bolts (A7)
5 Disconnect the turbocharger from the exhaust manifold, see Operation 9-1.
6 Remove the exhaust manifold to cylinder head retaining bolts (A8) and lift off the individual sections of
manifold.
To fit the exhaust manifolds Operation 3-7
1 Fit the exhaust manifold using new joints with all retaining bolts hand tight.
2 Tighten the retaining bolts (A7) and (A8) to 70 Nm (50 lbf ft) pulling the assembly squarely together.
3 Fit the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold, see Operation 9-1.
4 Fit the coolant pipes (A6) using new ‘O’ rings and tighten the retaining bolts (A5) to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
5 If the air vent unions have been removed, refit using a new copper sealing washer and torque the banjo bolts
6 Fit and tighten by hand the air vent pipework (A1) and (A2).
To release the inlet and exhaust manifolds Operation 3-8
Note: It is possible to change all of the cylinder heads without removing the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Follow
the procedure below, leaving the front and rear cylinder heads in position to support the manifolds. Change
the cylinder heads in between, then the front and rear cylinder heads.
1 Drain the cooling system by removing the drain plug on the inlet side of the crankcase, flywheel end.
2 Remove the valve gear oil feed pipework and ignition coil support assembly, see Operation 3-2.
3 Loosen the inlet manifold flange retaining bolts, see Operation 3-4.
4 Remove the inlet manifold flange to cylinder head retaining bolts, see Operation 3-4.
5 Remove the air vent pipework (A1) and (A2) from the exhaust manifold.
6 Remove the retaining bolts (A3) and lift off the coolant manifolds (A4).
7 Remove the retaining bolts (A5) and lift off the coolant pipes (A6).
8 Loosen the exhaust manifold flange retaining bolts (A7).
9 Remove the exhaust manifold flange to cylinder head retaining bolts (A8).
With the manifolds released from the cylinder heads and the manifold flange bolts loose, there will be sufficient
clearance for cylinder head removal, see Operation 3-13.
10 To retorque the retaining bolts refer to Operation 3-5 for inlet manifolds and Operation 3-7 for exhaust
manifolds.
Rocker box and valve gear
1 Remove the spark plug lead (A1).

2 Remove the four retaining screws (B1) from each rocker cover (B2).
3 Lift off the rocker cover and remove and discard the gasket (B3).
4 Pull the spark plug cover tube (B4) out of the cylinder head.
5 Remove the nut (C1) and the capscrew (C2) retaining the rocker shaft. Lift off the rocker assembly (C3) and
take out the push rods (C4), plus the inlet and exhaust rocker bridges (C5), marking them for reassembly.
6 Remove the rocker box retaining capscrews (D1) to (D3) in the order shown. Remove the rocker box.
Note: To free the rocker cover and rocker box from the jointing material a light blow with a soft faced hammer
may be necessary.
1 Fit a new rocker box sealing joint to the cylinder head.

2 Fit the rocker box, locating it onto the dowels in the cylinder head face.
3 After lubricating the thread fit the rocker box locating capscrews (A1) to (A3) and washers finger tight.
4 Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the push rods and fit them. Check they are located in the cam followers
(B1).
5 Lubricate the bridge piece guide pillars (B2) and fit the bridge pieces (B3).
6 Lubricate the rocker shaft (B4) then fit the rockers (B5).
7 Fit the rocker assembly to the rocker box, checking the rockers are located in the push rods.
8 Lubricate the threads and fit the locating nut (B6) and the capscrew (B7). Tighten them down hand tight,
checking that the push rods remain located on the rockers.
9 Torque the nut (B6) and capscrew (B7) to 120 Nm (90 lbf ft) then the rocker box capscrews to 70 Nm
(50 lbf ft) in the order shown (A1) to (A3).
10 Set bridge pieces, valve clearances, spark plug tube, rocker cover etc, see pages 47-51 in the User’s
Handbook.
Rocker assembly
To inspect Operation 3-11
1 Check the push rods are straight and the cup end (A1) and spherical end (A2) are smooth surfaced and
concentric with no chips or cracks.
2 Slide the rockers from the rocker shaft. Check the bearing surface (B1) is free from scoring.
3 Check the contact patch (B2) on each rocker is not indented or chipped.
Note: A small indentation may be removed with an oil stone, carefully following the radius.
4 Check the adjuster screws (B3) and their locknuts are undamaged.
5 Remove the grub screw (C1) and slide the spacer/oil jet (C2) from the rocker shaft (C3). Check the rocker
shaft for scoring.
6 Check the oil galleries in the rocker shaft (C4) and the oil jet (C2) are clear.
7 Check the bridge piece and its guide pillar (D1).
8 Check the valve contact patch (D2) is not indented or chipped.
Note: A small indentation may be removed with an oil stone.
9 Check the equalizing screw (D3) and its locknut are undamaged.
10 Check the bridge piece pressure pad (D4) for wear in the form of a deep indentation. If the pressure pad
is worn it must be replaced, see Operation 3-12.
To replace the bridge piece pressure pad Operation 3-12
1 Using a hammer and drift drive the pressure pad out of the bridge piece from the underside (A1).
2 Clean the bridge piece paying special attention to the bore and top surface (A2).
3 Apply Loctite activator "T" to the new pressure pad stem and the bridge piece bore. Allow to dry.
4 Apply Loctite 603 to the pressure pad stem and the bridge piece bore.
5 Rotate the pressure pad when fitting into place.
6 Stand the assembly upright (pressure pad up) and allow to cure for 2 hours minimum.
Cautions:
z Loctite must be applied to the area (B2) and the pressure pad must be seated with no gap between it and
the bridge piece.
z There must be no Loctite in the area (B1).
Cylinder head
Special requirements
Special tools
Description Part number Description Part number
Cylinder head lifting tool T6253/154 Hoist UA
Note: Reconditioning of cylinder heads can only be done by skilled personnel in a workshop with valve and
valve seat grinding equipment, liquid nitrogen freezing facilities and Perkins special tools.
Warning! Under no circumstances can the valves be lapped into their seats using carbarundum paste, as
carbarundum particles are retained in the stelite face of the valve, even after cleaning with solvent. The
retained carbarundum will cause rapid valve and valve seat wear possibly causing a major engine failure.
1 Remove the rocker box, see Operation 3-9.
2 Release the inlet and exhaust manifolds, see Operation 3-8.
3 Release the torque loading on the cylinder head bolts by loosening them in the order shown (A1), then
remove them.
Note: The cylinder head bolts must only be used twice. To record their fitting each bolt should be marked with
a centre punch dot. Bolts showing two dots must be replaced (C).
4 Fit the cylinder head lifting tool (B1) and hoist the cylinder head from the engine.
Continued
5 Discard the four ‘O’ rings (D1) and flame ring (D2). Clean the surface of the crankcase.
6 Rotate the engine, setting the piston halfway down its cylinder. Remove the carbon ring (D3) from the top
face of the liner.
7 Rotate the engine, setting the piston at TDC. Clean the carbon deposit from the piston using compressed
air to blow carbon particles away.
Note: The carbon deposits will vary with the gas being used and the condition of the engine.
Warning! If the ‘O’ rings have been burned or overheated then dangerous “hydroflouric acid” is produced.
Follow the "Safety precautions" on page 4 and also refer to "Environmental protection" on page 7.
Special tools
Cylinder head lifting tool T6253/154 Hoist UA
1 Place the four ‘O’ rings (A1) into the recesses in the crankcase face, holding them in position with grease.
2 Fit the flame ring (A2) onto the cylinder liner flange.
3 Fit the push rod tunnel, ‘O’ ring and its retainer into the recess in the combustion face of the cylinder head,
holding it in position with grease (B).
4 Fit the cylinder head lifting tool and hoist the cylinder head into position.
5 Lower the cylinder head, ensuring it locates on the two dowels (A3) in the crankcase face. Remove the
cylinder head lifting tool.
Continued
6 Using PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease, apply one ‘stripe’ to the bolt threads (C1) before starting them in
the crankcase. Also coat both sides of the washers fitted under the bolt heads.
Note: It is important not to exceed the amount of PBC grease recommended above.
7 The bolts should be tightened in the order shown in (D) using the torque sequence in the table below.
Caution: Do not exceed the maximum torque settings.
Torque - Cylinder head bolts
Sequence
Nm lbf ft
1 Hand tight
2 135 100
3 270 200
4 540 400
5 718 530
Spark plug bush
Special tools
Description Part number
Crowfoot lever UA
Note: The spark plug bush need only be removed if a coolant leak occurs.
1 Remove the capscrew (A1) retaining the spark plug bush clamp (A2).
2 Using a crowfoot lever (A3) on the underside of the clamp, extract the spark plug tube from the cylinder head.
3 Remove the ‘O’ ring (B1) from its seat in the cylinder head.
4 Discard the ‘O’ ring (C1) and carefully prise the copper sealing washer (C2) from its counterbore in the end
of the spark plug bush.
5 Check the spark plug bush and the cylinder head for corrosion and coolant leakage.
Note: The spark plug bush comes fitted in a service exchange cylinder head.
Note: The spark plug bush seating in the cylinder head, and the bush, must be clean and free from corrosion
etc before fitting.
1 Fit a new ‘O’ ring into its seat in the cylinder head (A).
2 Fit new ‘O’ rings to the spark plug bush (B1).
3 Fit a new copper sealing washer (B2) into its counterbore, retaining it using Loctite Ultra Copper RTV
Silicone (Loctite part No. 82046).
4 Fit the retaining clamp (B3), then lightly oil the spark plug bush to assist fitting.
5 Carefully push the bush assembly into the cylinder head. Locate the capscrew (B4) in the cylinder head and
screw down finger tight.
6 Torque the retaining capscrew down to 135 Nm (100 lbf ft).
Core plugs
To remove and fit Operation 3-17
Special tools
Mandrel T6253/149
To remove
Caution: The core plugs are stainless steel and will not corrode. If a leak is found on one it must be replaced.
1 Carefully remove the core plug using a small sharp chisel (A1). Clean any rust particles etc from the core
plug bore.
To fit
1 Using Loctite 270 as a sealant, fit the core plug into the cylinder head, hammering it into position using a
mandrel (A2).
2 Allow one hour for the Loctite to cure then pressure test the cylinder head to 6,9 bar (100 lb/in2) using water
at 70 to 90 °C.
Valves
Special tools
Valve spring compressor UA
1 Turn the cylinder head onto its side. Prise out the push rod ‘O’ ring and its insert (A1), then mark the valves
(A2) to ensure correct re-assembly.
2 Using a valve spring compressor tool (A3) compress the valve spring (A4) and remove the split collets (A7).
Slowly release the pressure on the spring, remove the retaining collar (A6) and the spring (A4) then remove
the valve.
3 After removing the valves remove and discard the valve stem oil seals (A8). Clean carbon deposits from the
combustion face and the ports, being careful not to scratch the machined surfaces.
4 Make a careful visual inspection of the cylinder head.
Special tools
Valve spring compressor UA
Caution: If the original valve springs are to be refitted check the valve spring length. If less than 55,6 mm the
springs must be replaced.
1 Lay the cylinder head on its side, and fit a valve stem oil seal to each inlet valve guide, retaining it with its
wire clip (A9).
2 Coat the valve stem with oil, push the valve down onto its seat.
3 Fit the retaining collar (A6) and spring (A4). Compress the valve spring down to a point where the collet
groove on the valve stem is clear of the spring retainer (A5).
Note: A dab of grease on the inside of the collets will hold them on the valve stem while the spring is slowly
released.
4 Be sure the collets have located in the spring retainer.
Valves, guides and valve height
Valves
1 Clean the carbon deposit from the valves.
2 Check the condition of the valve seat (A1). If any surface deterioration is found the valve must be replaced.
Caution: If the valve seat is refaced by grinding the hard stelite face will be removed, possibly causing major
engine failure.
3 Check the valve stem diameter (A2), refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
4 If the valve is serviceable, but with pitting on the valve seat, it can be reground. The valve seat angle is 30°.
5 After regrinding check that the edge of the valve seat is not reduced below the minimum limit of 1 mm.
Continued
Valve guides
1 Support the cylinder head on two blocks of wood with the combustion face upwards.
2 Replace the relevant valve into the cylinder head, holding it 10 mm out of the head with an engineers square
alongside and check the valve rock (B1).
If it is in excess of 0,5 mm replace the valve guide, see Operation 3-21 for inlet valves and Operation 3-22 for
exhaust valves.
Valve height
1 Push the valve down onto its seat.
2 Using a straight edge (C1) check the valve height relative to the face of the cylinder head. The valve should
be level to 1 mm below (C2).
Note: A new valve may correct the valve height, if not the valve seat must be replaced, see Operation 3-23.
Inlet valve guides
Special tools
Valve guide removal tool (mandrel) T6253/307 Valve guide fitting tool T85090/2
1 Press the valve guide out of the valve spring side of the cylinder head using the removal tool (A1).
Caution: Do not press the valve guide out from the combustion side of the cylinder head as the accumulation
of carbon on the valve guide will score the valve guide bore as it is pressed out.
2 Clean the valve guide bore.
3 Align the valve guide with its bore. Set tool (B1) on the valve guide and press the guide into the cylinder
head until the tool touches the valve seat face (B2).
Exhaust valve guides
Special tools
Valve guide removal tool (mandrel) T6253/307 Exhaust valve guide fitting tool 85090/6
1 Press the valve guide out of the valve spring side of the cylinder head using the mandrel (A1). The locating
collar (A2) will be released as the guide is pushed off.
Caution: Do not press the valve guide out from the combustion side of the cylinder head as the accumulation
of carbon on the valve guide will score the valve guide bore as it is pressed out.
2 Check the oil gallery (C1) is clear. Clean any carbon deposits from the valve guide bore (C2).
3 Apply Loctite 638 to the underside of the valve guide collar (B1).
4 Locate the valve guide in the cylinder head. Align the oil feed hole (B2) with the oilway positioning mark (B3)
on the valve spring seat face.
5 Set the fitting tool (B4) on the valve guide and press the valve guide into position.
6 Using a thin wire bent at a right angle (C3) check the oil feed in the valve guide is aligned with the oil gallery
(C1).
Warning! When new valve guides have been fitted the valve seat must be re-faced, see Operation 3-24. The
valve height must also be checked, see Operation 3-20.
Valve seats
Special tools
Liquid nitrogen SP Valve seat fitting tool T85002/4
1 As the valve seat fitting tool T85002/4 locates in the valve guide bore in the cylinder head, the valve guide
must first be removed, see Operation 3-21 for inlet valves and Operation 3-22 for exhaust valves.
2 Lay the cylinder head on end and use a hand held grinder to cut a groove into the valve seat (A1).
Caution: Be very careful not to cut into the cylinder head.
3 Using a long chisel (A2) down the port, tap the valve seat out of the cylinder head.
4 If fitted remove the deflector plate and clean any carbon build up from the valve seat area.
Warning! Personal protective equipment must be used when handling liquid nitrogen.
5 Immerse the valve seat in the liquid nitrogen bringing the valve seat temperature to -21 °C.
Note: If fitted, for the inlet valve seat only, align the notch (C1) on the deflector plate with the drilling (C2) in
the valve seat support face.
6 Fit the valve seat to the fitting tool (B1) and lightly tap into position (B2).
To re-face Operation 3-24
Special tools
Valve seat grinding equipment SP
1 The minimum amount of metal should be removed to obtain a valve seat face. Careful attention must be
paid to the wear rate of the seat cutting stone.
Note: The valve seat angle is 30° for inlet and exhaust.
2 Check the valve seat height after re-facing a valve seat, see Operation 3-20.
4006/8 In-line Gas
4
Piston and connecting rod assemblies 4
Pistons
Special tools
Engine cranking device SE253 30° Indicator socket tool SE671K
Piston lifting tool T6253/295 Torque wrench UA
Piston ring compressing tool T6253/139 Ratchet wrench (340 Nm/250 lbf ft) UA
Warning! Disconnect batteries or any other means of starting.

1 Remove the cylinder head in question, see Operation 3-13.
2 Fit the engine cranking device SE253 to the spare starter motor mounting in the flywheel housing, see page
48 in the Users Handbook.
3 Remove the piston cooling jet, see Operation 10-1.
4 Take out the retaining bolts and washers (A1).
5 Remove the crankcase inspection cover (A2) and discard the ‘O’ ring seal (A3).
6 Rotate the crankshaft to a position where the con rod end float can be checked and the end cap and bolts
can be removed.
7 Use feeler gauges (B1) set between the crankshaft and con rod. The maximum end float is 0,5 mm.
Continued
8 Remove the big end cap bolts (C1) and carefully pull off the cap and half bearing (C2).
Cautions:
z The big end cap bolts can only be used three times. To record their fitting each bolt should be marked with
a centre punch dot. Bolts showing three dot marks must be replaced (E).
z If the big end shell bearings are to be re-used they must be fitted to the same con rod and end cap.
9 Remove the carbon from the top of the cylinder liner (D1) using a scraper or rotary wire brush. Take care
not to scratch the liner surface. All of the carbon deposit must be removed to give sufficient clearance for piston
removal.
10 Rotate the engine to TDC and clean any loose carbon from the piston.
Continued
44
Note: The piston lifting tool operates using suction to hold it to the piston crown.
11 To create the required suction operate the pump (F1) until the red line (F2) has disappeared. Using the
handle (F3) pull the piston and con rod from the engine.
12 Detach the lifting tool by pressing the red button (F4).
13 Visually check the condition of the crankpin, then check its size (G). Refer to the relevant "Wear and
renewal limits" on page 13.
1 Fit a shell bearing to the con rod.

Warning! If the piston is suitable for further service ensure it is refitted into its original cylinder.
2 Lubricate the cylinder liner, crank pin and shell bearing.
3 Fit the piston lifting tool (A1) to the piston.
4 Slide the piston ring compressing tool (A2) up to the oil control ring and insert the assembly into the cylinder
bore.
5 Push the piston into the cylinder, checking the piston rings as they pass through the compressing tool, at
the same time guiding the connecting rod onto the crankpin.
6 Remove the piston ring compressing tool.
7 Fit a shell bearing to the connecting rod end cap.
8 Lubricate the shell bearing, the threads and underside of the bolt heads with engine oil.
9 Fit the end cap making sure the identifying numbers on rod and cap are on the same side (B1).
10 Tighten the connecting rod bolts hand tight, checking the end cap has pulled fully up to the connecting rod.
11 Torque the connecting rod bolts to 110 Nm (82 lbf ft).
Continued
Note: The final stage for the connecting rod bolts is done by tightening them 60° more, but because of the
restricted access this is done in two operations 30° each time. To perform this procedure correctly two
personnel are required.
12 Locate the socket indicator on the big end bolt and apply light pressure to the wrench (C1).
13 Set the leading edge of the indicator (C2) on the centre line of the big end bolt (C3).
14 Tighten the big end bolt until the trailing edge of the indicator (C4) is in line with the centre line of the big
end bolt (C3).
15 Remove socket indicator from the big end bolt head and turn it one serration of the big end bolt. This will
bring the leading edge of the indicator (C2) again in line with the centre line of the big end bolt.
16 Tighten the big end bolt until the trailing edge of the indicator is again in line with the centre line of the big
end bolt, completing the required 60° angle.
Pistons and rings
Special tools
Circlip pliers (internal) UA Piston ring pliers UA
1 Remove and discard the gudgeon pin circlips (A1). Push out the gudgeon pin (A2) and lift the piston off the
con rod.
2 Visually check the pistons for seizure marks. If any are found the piston should be replaced.
3 If the pistons look serviceable carefully remove the piston rings (B1). Lay the rings down in order of removal,
as they should be re-fitted in their original grooves if found to be serviceable.
4 Carefully clean the pistons removing the carbon deposits from the piston crown and ring lands.
Caution: Do not use an abrasive medium for this operation.
5 Check the piston cooling oil gallery on the underside of the piston is clear.
6 After cleaning visually check the piston ring lands, gudgeon pin bore and piston skirt for signs of wear or
damage.
Warning! If a piston is fit for further service ensure it is refitted to its original con rod and its original liner.
1 Coat the piston ring grooves and the piston rings with clean engine oil.
2 First fit the oil control ring (A1). Check the locating wire (B1) is in position in the expander coil, and that when
fitted, the expander ends (B2) and ring gap (B3) are opposite each other.
3 Fit the other piston rings in the order shown in (A), setting the ring gaps 120° apart.
Caution: If used piston rings are to be refitted they must be in their original piston.
4 Lubricate the gudgeon pin, the small end bush and the gudgeon pin bosses of the piston.
5 Fit one circlip to the piston.
6 Fit the piston to the connecting rod and push in the gudgeon pin.
7 Check the piston is fitted correctly, with the cooling jet cutaway in the piston skirt (C1) on the offset side of
the connecting rod (C2).
8 Fit the second circlip.
Piston ring identification (A)
Ring No. Description
1 Oil control - coil spring loaded and slotted
2 Second compression ring - internally bevelled
3 First compression ring - molybdenum faced rectangular (high compression engines)
4 First compression ring - tapered seat (low compression engines)
To check Operation 4-5
Special tools
Feeler gauges UA
1 Using feeler gauges (A1) check the piston ring to piston land clearance. Refer to the relevant "Wear and
renewal limits" on page 13.
Note: It is not possible to check the clearance on a taper seat piston ring (Operation 4-4/A4).
2 Remove the rings from the piston, see Operation 4-3.
3 Visually inspect the cylinder liner for wear and score marks.
4 Check the ring gap by setting a piston ring 25 mm (1”) from the bottom of the cylinder liner, in the unworn
area (B1).
Note: Push the ring down the liner using the piston. This will set the ring squarely in the bore giving an accurate
indication of the piston ring gap.
5 Check the gap using feeler gauges (B2). Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
Con rod
Special tools
Small end bush inserter/extractor T6253/159
1 Visually check the connecting rod for wear or damage.

2 At major overhaul check the connecting rods for distortion using test mandrels.
3 The con rod bores must be square and parallel with each other, within + or - 0,127 mm (0.005”), measured
127 mm (5”) (A1) each side of the test mandrel.
4 Check the small end bush for wear or other damage. Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page
13.
5 If the small end bush has to be replaced, the special tool is used for removal and fitting.
Note: A new small end bush is pre-finished and does not need reaming after fitting.
Caution: The engines original set of connecting rods were matched within a defined weight band. The weight
of each individual connecting rod is painted on its shank. This information is required by your Perkins distributor
when supplying a replacement.
52
4006/8 In-line Gas
5
Crankshaft assembly 5
Gearcase, crankshaft oil seal
To replace Operation 5-1
Special tools
Front oil seal insertion kit (6 cylinder) T6253/141 Front oil seal insertion kit (8 cylinder) T6253/141A
Note: If a crankshaft oil seal has failed in service it can be replaced without removing the gearcase.
1 If fitted remove the radiator fan, belts and guards.
2 If fitted remove the belt drive pulley crankshaft dampers etc, see Operation 5-3 for six cylinder engines or
Operation 5-5 for eight cylinder engines.
3 Using a hammer and a round punch (A2) carefully knock the outer casing of the seal a small way into the
gearcase. The seal will distort and step out on its top edge (A3).
4 Push a screwdriver (A4) between the seal and its casing. Carefully lever the oil seal from the gearcase.
5 Clean the seal location and fit the oil seal locator (B1) to the crankshaft.
6 Lubricate the seal and slide it up the locator to the gearcase (B2).
7 Fit the outer sleeve (B3) then tighten the nut (B4), pushing the seal into the gearcase.
8 Remove the oil seal fitting tool then refit hub and damper, see Operation 5-3 for six cylinder engines or
Warning! Do not remove the oil seal housing (A1) from the gearcase.
Flywheel housing crankshaft oil seal
Special tools
Rear oil seal insertion kit T6253/140
Note: If the flywheel housing oil seal has failed in service, it can be replaced without removing the housing.
1 Remove the flywheel, see Operation 13-1.
2 Using a hammer and a round punch (A1) carefully knock the outer casing of the seal a small way into the
housing. The seal will distort and step out on its top edge.
3 Push a screwdriver (A2) between the seal and its casing. Carefully lever the oil seal from the gearcase.
4 Clean the seal location and fit the oil seal locator (B1) to the crankshaft.
5 Lubricate the seal (B2) and slide it up the locator to the flywheel housing.
6 Fit the outer sleeve (B3) then tighten the nut (B4) pushing the seal into the flywheel housing.
7 Remove the oil seal fitting tool then refit the flywheel, see Operation 13-1.
Crankshaft damper 6 cylinder engines - tuning disc and (when fitted) fan drive pulley
Special tools
Damper lifting tool T6253/214
Hoist UA
Damper hub extractor T6253/20
Note: The removal of the crankshaft damper etc is normally undertaken at major overhaul. The following
procedure is based on the assumption that if fitted, the radiator fan, belts and guards must first be removed.
Warning! The damper is filled with a silicone fluid contained in a closely fitting sealed casing. Great care must
be used in its removal as any damage to the outer casing will render it ineffective.
1 If fitted remove the fan drive pulley (A1), its adaptor (A2) and the tuning disc (A3).
2 Fit the damper lifting tool (B1) and set the hoist to take the weight of the damper.
3 Take out the three retaining bolts (B2) and remove the retaining plate (B3).
4 Fit the crankshaft adaptor extractor (B4). Tighten the centre bolt (B5) to pull the damper/hub assembly from
the crankshaft. While the damper/hub assembly is supported by the hoist remove the extractor (B4).
Warning! Specialised workshop facilities are required to hold the damper/adaptor assembly when removing
or fitting the damper retaining bolts.
5 When the damper retaining bolts have been removed, fit two of the retaining bolts into the threaded holes
in the damper. Tighten them evenly to pull the damper from the crankshaft adaptor.
Special tools
Damper lifting tool T6253/214 Hoist UA
1 Fit the TV damper to its hub and tighten the retaining bolts by hand then torque them down in the order
shown (A) to 160 Nm (120 lbf ft).
2 Fit the lifting tool and hoist the damper hub assembly onto the crankshaft.
3 Push the TV damper up onto the taper of the crankshaft.
4 Fit the retaining plate and tighten the retaining bolts by hand, then torque down to 340 Nm (250 lbf ft).
5 If fitted refit the fan drive pulley, its adaptor and spacer or a tuning disc. Tighten the retaining bolts to 340 Nm
(250 lbf ft).
Crankshaft damper 8 cylinder engines and (when fitted) fan drive pulley
Special tools
Damper lifting tool T6253/214 Guide studs T6253/157
Damper hub extractor T6253/20 Hoist UA
Note: The removal of the crankshaft damper etc is normally undertaken at major overhaul. The following
procedure is based on the assumption that if fitted, the radiator fan, belts and guards must first be removed.
Warning! The damper is filled with a silicone fluid contained in a closely fitting sealed casing. Great care must
be used in its removal as any damage to the outer casing will render it ineffective.
1 If fitted remove the belt drive pulley (A2).
Note: The retaining bolts (A1) hold the pulley and damper to the damper/adaptor (A5).
2 Fit the lifting tool (A4) to the front damper. Set the hoist to give light tension on the sling (A3).
3 Remove the six retaining bolts (A7) and fit the guide studs (A8) in two horizontally opposed bolt holes.
4 Fit two of the retaining bolts into the threaded holes in the damper (A6). Tighten them evenly to pull the
damper from the adaptor and onto the guide studs.
5 Take the weight of the damper with the hoist, then slide the damper along the guide studs.
Caution: Check the hoist is set to support the damper when it leaves the guide studs.
Continued
6 Fit the damper lifting tool (B1) to the rear damper and set the hoist to take the weight of the damper.
7 Take out the three retaining bolts (B2) and remove the retaining plate (B3).
8 Fit the crankshaft adaptor extractor. Tighten the centre bolt (B4) to pull the damper/hub assembly from the
crankshaft. While the damper/hub assembly is supported by the hoist remove the extractor.
Warning! Specialised workshop facilities are required to hold the damper/adaptor assembly when removing
or fitting the damper retaining bolts.
9 When the damper retaining bolts have been removed, fit two of the retaining bolts into the threaded holes
in the damper. Tighten them evenly to pull the damper from the crankshaft adaptor.
Special tools
Damper lifting tool T6253/214
Hoist UA
Guide studs T6253/157
1 Fit the rear damper to the adaptor. Tighten the bolts by hand then torque them down in the order shown (A)
to 160 Nm (120 lbf ft).
2 Check the taper end of the crank and the bore of the damper adaptor are clean and dry.
3 Fit the lifting tool and hoist the damper hub assembly onto the crankshaft.
4 Fit the retaining plate (B1) and tighten the retaining bolts (B2) by hand, then torque down to 340 Nm
(250 lbf ft).
5 Fit the guide studs (C1) into the crankshaft damper adaptor (C2).
6 Fit the damper lifting tool (C3) and hoist the damper into position, lining it up with the guide studs. Slide the
damper along the guide studs and onto the damper adaptor.
7 Fit one retaining bolt (C4) in the lower edge of the damper. Tighten hand tight to hold the damper in position.
8 Release tension on the sling and remove the lifting tool.
9 Fit one retaining bolt (C5) in the top edge of the damper. Tighten hand tight to hold the damper in position.
Continued
10 Remove the guide studs.
11 Fit all of the retaining bolts and tighten them diagonally by hand, pulling the damper squarely onto the
adaptor.
12 If a belt drive pulley is fitted remove the retaining bolts and fit the pulley. Tighten the retaining bolts
diagonally by hand, seating the pulley squarely onto the damper.
13 Torque the retaining bolts to 340 Nm (250 lbf ft) in the order shown (D).
4006/8 In-line Gas
6
Gearcase and timing gears 6
General information
Removal of the gearcase, timing gears and camshaft is normally undertaken at major overhaul. The following
procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is to be removed from its installation and that the
cylinder heads, manifolds, turbo, ignition and oil rails etc have been removed.
Gearcase
To remove
1 Remove the ignition sensor cable (A1)
2 Remove the crankshaft damper guard and the crankshaft damper, see Operation 5-3 for 6 cylinder engines
or Operation 5-5 for 8 cylinder engines.
3 Loosen the bolts holding the oil feed elbow to the oil pump.
4 Loosen all sump bolts allowing the sump to drop evenly away from the crankcase and gearcase.
5 Remove the bolts between the sump and gearcase, and the bolts around the edge of the gearcase.
Note: To free the gearcase from its jointing material a light blow with a soft faced hammer may be necessary.
6 Lift the gearcase off the engine (the gearcase is made of lightweight alloy and is easily lifted by hand).
7 Remove the crankshaft oil seal then clean the gearcase. Remove any jointing material from its mating
surface and the suspension plate.
To fit
1 Fit a new joint to the suspension plate.
2 Lift the gearcase into position, carefully locating it on the dowels in the suspension plate.
3 Fit all retaining bolts, tightening them by hand in an order that pulls the gearcase up squarely to the
suspension plate.
4 Tighten all sump bolts by hand in an order that pulls the sump up squarely to the crankcase and gearcase.
5 Tighten the oil feed elbow retaining bolts.
6 Torque the gearcase to suspension plate, sump to gearcase, and oil feed elbow bolts to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft),
then the sump to crankcase bolts.
7 Fit a new crankshaft oil seal, see Operation 5-1.
8 Refit the crankshaft damper guard and the crankshaft damper, see Operation 5-3 for six cylinder engines or
9 Refit the ignition sensor cable (A1).
Timing gears
Special tools
Dial test indicator (DTI) UA
Feeler gauges UA
1 Visually inspect all gears for wear or broken teeth.

2 Check the end float on the idler gear by inserting two feeler gauges (A1) between the retaining plate (A2)
and the idler gear. Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
If clearance is excessive refer to Operation 8-1.
3 To check the backlash in the timing gears set the DTI (B1) on the face of a gear tooth then rock the gear to
get a reading. Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
To replace the idler gear bush Operation 6-3
Special tools
Internal and external micrometers
UA Press UA
0-3” (0-80 mm)
1 Remove the two retaining bolts (A1) and the retaining plate (A2). Pull the idler gear from its stub shaft.
2 Check the size of the stub shaft (B1) and the bush (B2). If the bush is to be replaced it must be pressed out
of the gear.
Note: The new bush is pre-finished to size.
3 When fitting the idler gear lubricate the stub shaft and retaining plate, then fit and torque the retaining bolts
To align (for valve timing) Operation 6-4
1 Rotate the crankshaft, setting the two timing dots (A1) on the crankshaft gear (A4) in the 2 o’clock position.
2 Rotate the camshaft, setting the single timing dot (A2) on the camshaft gear (A3) between the two dots on
the crankshaft gear.
3 Fit the camshaft drive gear, see Operation 8-1.
Note: For the idler gear (A5) and oil pump gear (A6) no timing alignment is required.
Crankshaft gear
Special tools
Three legged puller UA Insulated gloves UA
Induction heater UA Gear spacing tool T85001/33
To remove
1 Remove the gearcase, see Operation 6-1.
2 Set the crankshaft gear with its timing mark (A1) in the 12 o’clock position.
3 Fit the puller, locating the legs (A2) behind the gear. Tighten the extractor bolt (A3) by hand, checking the
puller legs are evenly located on the gear and the extractor bolt is located in the end of the crank.
4 Tighten the extractor bolt to pull the gear from the crankshaft.
To fit
1 The crankshaft gear is an interference fit and must be heated to 250 °C to give sufficient expansion for fitting.
Caution: This must be accurately monitored or damage to the hardened surface will occur.
2 Fit the gear spacing tool (B1) onto the crankshaft holding it in position with a hose clip.
3 Holding the heated gear with insulated gloves push it onto the crankshaft up to the spacing tool, at the same
time line up the timing mark on the gear (B2) with the timing mark (B3) on the crankshaft.
Note: Allow the gear to cool down completely before removing the gear spacing tool.
4006/8 In-line Gas
7
Crankcase, crankshaft and cylinder liners 7
General information
Crankshaft removal is normally undertaken at major overhaul. The following procedures are relative to an
engine that has been removed from its installation and is dismantled with the flywheel, flywheel housing
gearcase, cylinder heads, pistons and all other ancillary equipment removed.
Crankcase
To invert Operation 7-1
Special tools
Heavy lifting equipment and slings UA
Caution: Great care must be taken when performing this operation.

1 Remove all bolts holding the sump to the crankcase.
2 Hoist the crankcase away from the sump and lower onto heavy blocks of wood (A1).
3 Lay wooden blocks to the side of the crankcase (A2). Sling the crankcase from the cam follower housing
(A3) then partially lift and lower the crankcase over on to the blocks (A4).
4 Re-sling through the crankcase door aperture then lift and invert the crankcase (A5).
Warning! Make sure the crankcase does not rock and is safe to work on in this position.
Crankshaft
To remove main bearing caps, 6 cylinder engines Operation 7-2
1 Remove the main bearing bolts (A1) and heavy washers (A2). Lift off the main bearing cap (A3).
Note: Each main bearing cap is stamped with a serial and position identification number (A4).
Caution: The main bearing bolts can only be used three times. To record their fitting each bolt should be
marked with a centre punch dot. Bolts showing three dots must be replaced (B).
To remove main bearing caps and tie bars, 8 cylinder engines Operation 7-3
1 Remove the tie bar side fixing capscrew (A1).

Note: Capscrews on the inspection cover side of the engine are longer.
2 Remove the main bearing bolts (A3) and heavy washer (A4). Lift off the tie bar (A5) and the main bearing
cap (A6).
Note: Each tie bar and main bearing cap have a serial number and a position identification number (A2)
stamped on them.
Caution: The main bearing bolts can only be used three times, to record their fitting each bolt should be
marked with a centre punch dot. Bolts showing three dots must be replaced (B).
Note: The capscrew main bearing bolts are less stressed than the hexagon main bearing bolts. Unless the
heads or threads are damaged they have an infinite life.
To remove and to fit the crankshaft assembly Operation 7-4
To remove
Warning! The rear main bearing cap flywheel end retains two half crankshaft thrust bearings in the crankcase,
which must be removed to give sufficient clearance for crankshaft removal.
1 Using a screwdriver (A1) push the thrust washers (A2) down, rotating them out of the crankcases.
2 Rotate the crankshaft, setting the central balance weights (A3) uppermost.
3 Using a rope sling (A4) around the balance weights (A3) carefully hoist the crankshaft out of the crankcase.
To fit
1 Fit the half bearings into the crankcase, making sure the bearing is fully seated and the tab is located in its
slot (A5).
2 Lubricate the bearings and crankshaft journals.
3 Fit the rope sling to the central balance weights and hoist the crankshaft into position above the crankcase.
Carefully lower it onto its bearings.
4 Check the bearings are still located in the crankcase and remove the rope sling.
To fit main bearing caps, 6 cylinder engines Operation 7-5
1 Lubricate and fit the thrust bearings (A1) into the crankcase.
Warning! Check the bearing side of the thrust washers. The side with the grooves (A2) must be in contact with
the crankshaft or serious damage will be done to the crankshaft thrust faces.
2 Fit the half bearings to the main bearing caps. Lubricate the bearing and fit the cap pushing it squarely onto
the crank and into its location in the crankcase.
Warning! Ensure all other main bearing caps are fitted in their correct positions by reference to the identity
numbers on the caps and the crankcase.
3 Lubricate the main bearing bolt threads, the heavy washers and the underside of the bolt heads with engine
oil. Fit and tighten the cap by hand.
4 Torque the main bearing bolts down in the order shown in (B) using the torque sequence in the table below.
Note: Check the crankshaft rotates freely after each individual main bearing cap is torqued down.
Torque
Sequence
Nm lbf ft
1 Hand tight
2 135 100
3 270 200
4 540 400
5 783 580
To fit main bearing caps and tie bars, 8 cylinder engines Operation 7-6
1 Lubricate and fit the thrust bearings (A1) into the crankcase.
Caution: Check the bearing side of the thrust washers. The side with the grooves (A2) must be in contact with
the crankshaft or serious damage will be done to the crankshaft thrust faces.
2 Fit the half bearings to the main bearing caps. Lubricate the bearing and fit the cap pushing it squarely onto
the crank and into its location in the crankcase.
Caution: Ensure all other main bearing caps and tie bars are fitted in their correct positions by reference to
the identity numbers on the caps and the crankcase.
3 Fit the tie bars. Lubricate the main bearing bolt threads, the heavy washers and the underside of the bolt
heads with engine oil. Fit and tighten by hand the tie bar and cap.
4 Lubricate the side fixing capscrew and fit hand tight.
Note: The long capscrews fit on the inspection cover side of the engine.
Continued
5 Torque the main bearing bolts down in the order shown in (B) using the torque sequence in the table above.
6 Torque the side fixing capscrews down in the order shown in (C) using the torque sequence in the table
below.
Note: Check the crankshaft rotates freely after each individual main bearing cap is torqued down.
Torque - Main bearing bolts (B) Torque - Side fixing capscrews (C)
Sequence Sequence
Nm lbf ft Nm lbf ft
1 Hand tight 1 Hand tight
2 135 100 2 135 100
3 270 200 3 270 200
4 540 400 - - -
5 783 580 - - -
Special tools
150 mm Micrometer UA
1 Inspect each individual set of crankshaft shell bearings for signs of wear or damage.
2 Check the crankshaft journal sizes. Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
Note: If the crankshaft is worn beyond the specified limits it can be re-ground and undersize bearings fitted.
This is a very specialised process and should only be done through your Perkins distributor.
To check crankshaft end float Operation 7-8
Special tools
Dial test indicator with magnetic
2 Levers (approx. 250 mm, 10” long) UA UA
mounting
1 With a DTi mounted on the crankcase, and its plunger in contact with the crankshaft, use levers to move the
crankshaft in and out to give an end float reading (A). Refer to the relevant "Wear and renewal limits" on page
13.
Caution: Failure to ensure correct end float may result in excessive thrust washer wear or even crankshaft
seizure.
Cylinder liners
The cylinder liners must be de-glazed to allow new piston rings to bed in on the liner surface.
The following procedure is based on the assumption that the cylinder heads, piston cooling jets, and pistons
have been removed.
To de-glaze Operation 7-9
Special tools
De-glazing brush UA
Pistol type variable speed electric drill UA
1 Cover the crankshaft to protect it from particles released by the de-glazing process.
2 Fit the honing brush into the drill and set the drill speed to 300 rpm.
Note: Paraffin should be used as a cutting agent on the liner and brush.
3 Move the brush up and down the cylinder for about 15 seconds, then check liner surface. If glaze is still
present repeat the process.
4 After de-glazing carefully clean the liner using a hot soap and water solution to dissolve the de-glazing
residue.
5 Dry the liner using paper towels.
To change Operation 7-10
Special tools
Liner extractor T6253/152 Liner clamp T6253/200
Note: Cylinder liners are normally changed at major overhaul or in the event of a failure. The following
procedure is based on the assumption that the cylinder heads, piston cooling jets, and pistons have been
removed.
1 Fit the top section of the extractor (A1) onto the crankcase, locating the pillars (A2) in the cylinder head bolt
holes.
2 Set the extractor with the top plate (A3) resting on the cylinder liner and the support pillars on the face of the
crankcase.
3 Hold the bottom plate (A4) in position while the four extractor bolts (A5) are screwed in and torqued to
7 Nm (5 lbf ft).
4 Turn the tommy bar (A6) in a clockwise direction to extract the liner.
Caution: A small quantity of coolant will be released as the liner is removed.
Continued
5 Clean the cylinder liner location in the crankcase. Remove all traces of Loctite and rust from the liner seating
area (B1).
6 Remove any build up of rust from the ‘O’ ring guiding chamfer (B2) on the lower liner location (B3).
7 Lubricate the ‘O’ rings with silicon rubber grease or petroleum jelly and fit them to the liner.
8 Lubricate lower liner location (B3) and the chamfer with silicon rubber grease or petroleum jelly.
9 Apply Loctite 638 to the liner seating area (B1).
10 Carefully fit the liner pushing it into the crankcase by hand. When the ‘O’ rings locate on the chamfer a
resistance will be felt. Stop pushing.
11 Using two cylinder head bolts (C1), and varying the length using spacers or washers with the cylinder liner
clamping tool (C2), push the liner into the crankcase.
12 Remove the cylinder head bolts and spacers. Fit short bolts to the clamping tool, tighten the bolts to
13,5 Nm (10 lbf ft).
Warning! Allow 3 hours for the Loctite to cure before removing the liner clamp.
80
4006/8 In-line Gas
8
Camshaft and cam followers 8
General information
Camshaft and cam follower removal is normally undertaken at major overhauls. The following procedures are
based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from its installation and that the flywheel, flywheel
housing, front pulley, damper, gearcase, cylinder head and manifolds have been removed.
Camshaft end float
To check and to set Operation 8-1
Special tools
Dial test indicator (DTi) UA Lever (approx. 10”, 250 mm long) UA
To check
1 Using hand pressure push the camshaft drive gear in onto the thrust plate (A1).
2 Set the DTi (A2) in contact with the drive gear. Using a lever (A3) move the drive gear out to give a reading.
Refer to "Wear and renewal limits" on page 13.
To set
1 Remove the four gear retaining bolts (B1) and using hand pressure pull the drive gear (B2) off the camshaft.
2 Remove the two retaining capscrews (B3) and lift off the thrust plate (B4).
Note: The thrust plate is not supplied in oversizes.If the end float is over the set limit, measure the worn area
of the thrust plate comparing it with the unworn area. If the calculated clearance is still excessive the drive gear
must also be replaced.
3 Lubricate then fit the new thrust plate. Torque the retaining capscrews to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
4 Fit the camshaft gear and torque the retaining bolts to 150 Nm (110 lbf ft).
Cam followers and housing
To remove the cam follower housing Operation 8-2
1 Mark each cam follower housing and its location on the cylinder block to ensure that it is refitted in its original
position.
2 Take out the four retaining bolts (A1) and pull the housing from the crankcase.
Note: A light tap with a soft faced hammer may be necessary to free the housing from its sealing joint and
locating dowel.
To inspect cam followers and re-fit the housing Operation 8-3
Note: In the event of failure service exchange cam followers are normally supplied.
1 Visually check the bearing surface of each cam follower roller for wear and that it is free to rotate without
excessive clearance between roller and pivot.
2 Check the push rod socket for wear. If the cam followers are in reusable condition mark them for re-assembly
to the housing.
3 Take out the grub screw (A1) from the spacer (A2).
4 Take out the two retaining capscrews (A3).
5 Push the pivot shaft (A4) out of the housing.
6 Keep the shims in order, with two shims between the cam follower and the housing (A5) and one shim
between the spacer and the cam follower (A6).
7 Check the pivot shaft and the pivot end of the cam follower for wear.
8 Clean and check the oil passages in the housing and spacer.
9 Liberally coat the components with clean engine oil and reassemble, with the retaining capscrews (A3) hand
tight.
10 Check that the end float on the cam followers is between 0,150 and 0,200 mm (0.006 and 0.008 in).
11 With the cam follower end float set, remove the retaining capscrews (A3) and refit after applying Loctite
252. Torque them down to 70 Nm (50 lbf ft).
12 Fit the housing assembly into the crankcase using a new sealing joint. Tighten the retaining bolts, pulling
the housing evenly onto the crankcase, then torque the bolts down to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
Camshaft
Special tools
Camshaft guide tube T6253/142 Sling and hoist UA
Camshaft removal is generally done at major overhaul with the engine removed from its installation and its
gearcase, flywheel housing, cylinder heads, cam followers and drive gear removed.
1 Fit the camshaft guide tube (A1) to the drive end of the camshaft. Tighten the two retaining bolts evenly
making sure the guide tube is in line with the camshaft.
2 To avoid damaging the camshaft bearing use a long piece of wood (A2) to push the camshaft out of the
engine.
3 As the camshaft emerges from the flywheel end of the engine support its weight using a rope sling and hoist
(A3).
4 Visually check the bearing surfaces and cam lobes.
5 Check the condition of the camshaft bearing in the crankcase.
Special tools
Camshaft guide tube T6253/142 Sling and hoist UA
Note: Fitting the camshaft is done from the flywheel end of the engine.
1 Fit the camshaft guide tube to the camshaft.
2 Lift the assembly using a rope sling and hoist (A).
3 Lubricate the bearings in the crankcase and on the camshaft.
4 Carefully align the guide tube with the first cam bearing.
5 Push the camshaft into the engine, removing the sling as the bearings support the camshaft.
6 Check the camshaft is free to rotate by fitting two of the camshaft drive gear retaining bolts into the camshaft.
Using hand pressure on the bolts the camshaft should turn freely (B).
Camshaft bearings
Special tools
Camshaft bearing removal/refitting kit T6253/199
1 To remove a bearing fit the mandrel (A1) in the bearing. Fit the sleeve (A2) over the stud, then the spacers
(A3) and the nut (A4). With the nut finger tight check the alignment of the tool with the bearing and crankcase.
Tighten the nut pulling the bearing out of the crankcase.
2 As the thread on the stud is used, add more spacers until the bearing is removed.
Note: Fitting a new bearing needs great care. The bearing bore must be clean and free from burrs.
Caution: The bearing must be fitted with its joint line in the 12 o'clock position (B1) and the lock tabs pointing
to the cam follower side of the crankcase (B2).
3 Fit the bearing to the mandrel. Lubricate its outer edge and the bearing bore in the crankcase.
4 Line up the bearing. Fit the sleeve, spacers, and nut.
5 Check the alignment of the bearing crankcase and tool. Carefully tighten the nut, adding spacers until the
bearing is in position.
88
4006/8 In-line Gas
9
Aspiration system 9
Turbocharger
The turbocharger is fitted between the exhaust and inlet manifolds. It is driven by exhaust gases and
pressurises the inlet side of the engine. Oil from the engines main oil gallery is fed to the turbocharger bearings
from where it drains back to the sump.
In the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul a service exchange unit must be fitted,
contact your Perkins distributor.
1 Remove the vee band clamp (A1) then pull the exhaust elbow (A2) away from the turbocharger.
2 Remove the oil drain pipe (A3).
3 Remove the oil feed pipe (A4) and its steady bracket (A5).
4 Loosen the hose clips (A6) on the flexible pipe connecting the turbocharger to the air cleaner.
5 Remove the capscrew (B1) holding the air pipe to the turbocharger and the spacer washers (B2).
Note: On high compression 8 cylinder engines the air pipe is held to the turbocharger by two straps (C1). Take
out the bolts (C2) and remove the straps.
6 Take out the bolts (A7) holding the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold.
7 Lift the turbocharger off the exhaust manifold and out of the sealing gland and air cleaner hose. Remove the
sealing gland (B3) from the air pipe.
Warning! If a turbocharger has failed mechanically, the oil pipes, air pipe, manifolds and air cleaner must be
checked and cleared of any debris.
1 Check the alignment of the turbocharger to manifold and compressor outlet to the air pipe by lifting the
turbocharger into position.
2 To reset the alignment slacken the vee band clamp (A1) and rotate compressor housing into position (A2).
Note: Do not tighten the vee band at this stage.
3 Fit new ‘O’ rings (B1) to the sealing gland.
4 Push the sealing gland into the air pipe with the wide band above the ‘O’ ring (B2) uppermost.
5 Fit the mounting bolts to the turbocharger and locate the sealing joint on the bolts. Lift the turbocharger into
position locating it in the sealing gland and air cleaner hose.
6 Tighten the mounting bolts diagonally pulling the turbocharger squarely up to the manifold.
7 Check the air pipe to turbocharger alignment. Fit the two spacer washers (C1) and the capscrew (C2).
8 Tighten the capscrew and again check alignment when the capscrew is fully tightened.
Note: On high compression 8 cylinder engines set the turbocharger / air pipe alignment and fit the retaining
straps (D1). The slotted holes in the straps will allow adjustment. After the retaining bolts (D2) have been
tightened check alignment.
Continued
9 Refit the exhaust elbow and its vee band clamp.
10 Tighten both vee band clamps in turn to 11 Nm (8 lbf ft).
11 To seat the clamps using a soft faced hammer tap the outer edge of the clamp at 3 points (E).
12 Re-torque the clamp.
13 Repeat the procedure until no movement is obtained.
14 Tighten the hose clip on the flexible pipe connecting the turbocharger to the air cleaner.
15 Fit the oil drain pipe using a new sealing joint. Torque the retaining bolts to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
16 Prime the turbocharger bearings with clean engine oil through the oil feed hole (F1). Refit the oil feed pipe
(F2) using a filter joint (F3), part number 278/348. Torque the retaining capscrew (F4) to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
17 Prime the engine lubrication system, see page 27 in the User’s Handbook.
Caution: After initial run up to full working temperature stop the engine and change the filter/sealing joint to
the standard non-filtered type.
Charge air cooler
The charge cooler comprises a coolant cooled matrix, independent of the engine cooling system, through
which the compressed air/gas mixture passes, lowering its temperature before it enters the inlet manifold. In
the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul a service exchange unit can be obtained
from your Perkins distributor.
Special tools
Hoist and sling UA
Note: To gain access to the charge cooler, the air cleaner, its mounting bracket, the gas pipework, and the
pressure switch in the manifold must be removed.
1 Drain off the coolant from the charge air cooling system.
2 Remove the water feed and return pipes (A1).
3 Remove the gas/air feed pipe (A2) between the manifold and butterfly valve.
4 Remove the air pipe (A3).
5 Fit a rope sling around the charge cooler unit and set the hoist to take the weight of the cooler (B).
6 Remove retaining bolts (B1) holding the top cover combined inlet manifold section (B2) to the cylinder heads.
7 Remove the retaining bolts (B3) from the inlet manifold flange.
8 Carefully hoist the charge cooler away from the engine.
Special tools
Hoist and sling UA
1 Using a sling and hoist lift the charge cooler into position on the engine, carefully aligning the flange on the
top cover with the inlet manifold flange and the cylinder head faces. Fit new joints and all retaining bolts finger
tight (B).
2 Tighten the retaining bolts in an order that will pull the charge cooler squarely to the cylinder heads and the
inlet manifold.
3 Remove the sling.
4 Refit the water feed pipes (A1) , air pipe (A3) and gas/air pipes (A2) using new joints.
5 Refit the pressure switch, the gas pipework and the air cleaner.
6 Fill and vent the charge air cooling system, see pages 28-29 in the User’s Handbook.
To clean/replace charge cooler heat exchanger matrix Operation 9-5
Consumable products
Industrial detergent UA Limescale solvent UA
1 Remove the retaining bolts (A1) then lift off the manifold covers (A2) and (A3).
Note: Do not remove the end covers (A4). They are part of the matrix assembly and are a none serviceable
item.
2 Check the limescale contamination in the coolant tubes by looking through the coolant feed and return
apertures (B1).
3 Check the oil/carbon contamination level on the matrix guiles (B2).
Note: If the heat exchanger matrix appears to be in serviceable condition it can be cleaned using industrial
detergent and limescale solvent. The manufacturer’s instructions on the use of these substances must be
strictly adhered to.
Caution: If limescale build up or oil/carbon contamination is still present after cleaning, the heat exchanger
matrix assembly must be replaced, as the reduced ability to transfer heat will adversely affect engine power.
4 Using a new joint fit the manifold covers to the heat exchanger matrix. Tighten the retaining bolt hand tight,
pulling the covers squarely onto the matrix, then torque to 27 Nm (20 lbf ft).
4006/8 In-line Gas
10
Lubricating system 10
Piston cooling jets

General description
The piston cooling jets are situated on the oil filter side of the crankcase. They pick up oil from a gallery in the
crankcase and spray it up to the underside of the piston.
Note: Before attempting to remove a piston cooling jet its piston should be positioned on TDC to ensure that
the balance weight or piston skirt does not obstruct the jet. This procedure should be followed for both
removing and refitting each piston cooling jet.
1 Remove the retaining screw and clamp (A1).
2 Rotate the jet to the 3 o’clock position then pull it from the crankcase.
3 Push out the plug (B1) and discard the ‘O’ rings (B2).
4 Clean and inspect the jet.
Caution: After cleaning if there is any doubt about the oil flow through the jet it should be replaced, as a
reduced oil spray pattern could cause severe piston damage.
Special tools
Stepped jet fitting tool T9142/21
1 Fit a new ‘O’ ring (A1) to the jet body.

2 Lubricate the ‘O’ ring and jet body.
3 Push the jet into the crankcase with the mounting flange in the 3 o’clock position (B1). Then rotate it to the
12 o’clock position (B2).
4 Fit the retaining bolt as a guide then fit the stepped tool to the jet body and tap the jet into the crankcase (C).
5 Fit a new ‘O’ ring (D1) to the plug (D2), lubricate the bore of the jet, and push the plug into position.
6 Fit the retaining bolt and clamp tighten down to 10 Nm (7 lbf ft).
Oil cooler
The oil cooler comprises a tubestack in an aluminium body with detachable end covers. The engines
lubricating oil passes around the tubestack, while coolant is circulated through the tubestack stabilising the oil
temperature.
To remove
1 Drain the engine cooling system.
2 Drain the coolant from the oil cooler by opening the drain tap (A1).
3 Remove the flexible oil feed pipe (A2).
4 Remove the oil outlet pipe (A3).
5 Remove the coolant feed pipe (A4).
6 Take out the four retaining bolts (A5) from the coolant outlet pipe (A6).
7 Take out the retaining bolts (A7) holding the oil cooler mounting brackets to the crankcase.
Note: The oil cooler is a heavy but manageable unit when removed by two service engineers.
8 Pull the oil cooler off its locating dowels (A8) and lift away from the engine.
Caution: Be prepared for oil spillage from the oil cooler body.
To fit
1 Lift the oil cooler into position, setting it on the locating dowels. Push against the cooler body holding it in
position while the top mounting bolts are fitted and tightened.
2 Refit all pipework using new joints and ‘O’ rings.
3 Refill the cooling system, see pages 28-29 in the User’s Handbook.
4 Prime the lubricating system, see page 27 in the User’s Handbook.
To clean/replace oil cooler tubestack Operation 10-4
Consumable products
Industrial detergent UA Limescale solvent UA
1 Remove the mounting bracket from the oil cooler body.

2 Take out the retaining bolts (A1) and remove the end covers (A2) and (A3). A light blow with a soft mallet
may be needed to free the covers from their locating dowels.
3 Using a block of wood to protect the face of the tubestack carefully knock it out of the oil cooler body (B).
Discard the tube stack ‘O’ ring and remove any jointing material from the mating surfaces.
4 Check the coolant side of the tubestack for limescale contamination and the lubricant side of the tubestack
for oil sludge contamination.
Note: If the tubestack appears to be in serviceable condition it can be cleaned using industrial detergent and
limescale solvent. The manufacturers instructions on the use of these substances must be strictly adhered to.
Caution: If limescale or sludge contamination is still present after cleaning, the tube stack must be replaced
as a reduced ability to transfer heat may lead to engine failure.
Continued
5 Fit a new joint (C1) to the flanged end of the tubestack and push the tubestack (C2) into the oil cooler body.
6 Using a new joint fit the end cover (D1) and tighten the retaining bolts diagonally by hand pulling the cover
squarely onto the oil cooler body. Fit a new ’O’ ring (D2) to the end of the tubestack.
7 Fit the end cover (D3) using a new joint. Tighten the retaining bolts by hand in a diagonal pattern pulling the
end cover squarely onto the oil cooler body.
8 Fit the oil inlet body using a new ‘O’ ring and torque all retaining bolts to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
To pressure test the oil cooler assembly Operation 10-5
1 Make up a two bolt adaptor plate (A1) and a four bolt adaptor plate with air pipe fitting (A2).
2 Fit the four bolt adaptor plate using a new sealing joint.
3 Fill the oil cooler with clean water to the level indicated (A3).
4 Fit the two bolt adaptor plate using a new sealing joint.
5 Connect compressed air to the oil cooler using a pressure gauge regulator (A4) to give 3 bar (50 psi)
maximum.
6 Pressure should hold without dropping for 3 minutes.
Oil pump
In the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul service exchange oil pumps are normally
supplied as the special equipment needed is not generally found in the field. For those operators who have the
facilities to repair their own oil pump, component parts can be obtained from your Perkins distributor.
1 Remove the oil feed pipe (A1) to the engine oil cooler.
2 Remove the six oil pump retaining nuts (A2).
Note: To prevent oil spillage if the engine oil is up to level, do not remove the oil pick-up pipe (A3).
3 Remove the two bolts (A4) holding the oil pick-up pipe to the oil pump.
4 Slacken the two bolts (A5) holding the oil pick-up pipe to the sump, to give clearance for oil pump removal.
5 Pull the oil pump along its mounting studs and away from the engine.
6 Tighten the oil pipe bolts (A5).
7 Discard the sealing ‘O’ ring between the oil pick-up pipe and oil pump.
1 Fit a new joint, sliding it carefully down the oil pump mounting studs.
2 If the oil pick-up pipe has been left in position fit a new ‘O’ ring (A1) into its top face.
3 Loosen the mounting bolts (A2) allowing the oil pick-up pipe to move, giving clearance for fitting the oil pump.
4 Lubricate the oil pump drive gear, then carefully slide the oil pump down its mounting studs into position.
5 Fit the retaining washers and nuts, tightening them by hand, diagonally pulling the oil pump squarely to the
engine. Then torque them down in the same order to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
6 Fit the two bolts holding the pick-up pipe to the oil pump. Tighten all four pick-up pipe bolts by hand, pulling
the pipe squarely to the oil pump and sump. Then torque them down to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
7 Fit the oil feed pipe to the oil cooler.
8 Prime the lubrication system, see page 27 in the User’s Handbook.
To dismantle Operation 10-8
1 Pull the front cover (A1) from the pump body (A2).
2 Take out the retaining bolts (A3) and remove the oil feed elbow (A4).
3 Take out the retaining bolts (A5) and remove the circular end cover (A6).
4 Take out the retaining bolts (A7) and remove the bottom cover (A8).
5 Take out the retaining bolts (B1) and remove the oil pressure relief valve end cover (B2).
6 Pull the spring retainer (B3), the spring (B4) and oil pressure relief plunger (B5) from the front cover.
7 Remove the outer rotor (C1) from the pump body. Hold the pump body at an angle and the rotor will slide out.
8 Hold the drive gear (D1) with soft jaws in a vice. Remove the nut (D2) and washers (D3).
9 Pull the drive gear from the pump shaft (D4). Remove the drive key (D5) from the pump shaft.
10 Take the pump shaft and inner rotor (D6) from the pump body.
11 Slide the inner rotor from the pump shaft, then remove the key (D7) from the pump shaft.
To assemble Operation 10-9
1 Fit the inner rotor, and its drive key to the pump drive shaft.
2 Lubricate the drive shaft and its bearing in the pump body.
3 Fit the shaft and rotor assembly into the pump body.
4 Fit the drive gear key into the pump drive shaft.
5 Fit the drive gear to the pump drive shaft, carefully locating it on its drive key.
6 Fit the retaining washer and nut.
7 Hold the gear with soft jaws in a vice and tighten the retaining nut to 98 Nm (72 lbf ft).
8 Take the pump body assembly out of the vice and check the drive shaft is free to rotate.
9 Lubricate and fit the outer rotor, and check the pump is free to rotate.
10 Refit the oil feed elbow (A1), the circular end cover (A2) and the bottom cover (A3) using new joints. Torque
the retaining bolts to 28 Nm (21 lbf ft).
11 Lubricate the bore of the oil pressure relief valve. Refit the plunger (B1), the spring (B2) and the spring
retainer (B3) using a new joint (B4) on the cover (B5). Torque the retaining bolts to 28 Nm (21 lbf ft).
12 Fit the sealing joint to the pump body, locating it on the two dowels.
13 Lubricate the drive shaft bearing. Fit the oil pump cover assembly to the pump body, engaging the drive
shaft and dowels. Using a soft faced hammer tap the pump cover into position.
14 Check the pump is free to rotate.
To check components Operation 10-10
Special tools
Feeler gauges/Straight edge UA
1 Clean and dry all components. Examine the pump body and cover for wear and scoring caused by rotor
contact.
2 Check both rotor lobes and their side faces for scoring.
3 Check the pump shaft bearing areas for wear and examine the key and its keyway.
4 To check rotor clearances refit the inner rotor with its key to the drive shaft. Check there is not ‘rock’ between
the rotor and key.
5 Set the pump body vertically (on its drive face). Fit the shaft and inner rotor into the pump body, then fit the
outer rotor.
6 Using feeler gauges check the clearance at points (A1) and (A2).
The maximum dimensions are 0,127 mm (0.005”) at (A1) and 0,178 mm (0.007”) at (A2).
Continued
7 Set a straight edge across the rotors and check the gap between the rotors and the end face of the pump
body using feeler gauges (B).
8 Check the thickness of the new pump cover joint which should be 0,229 mm to 0,254 mm (0.009” to 0.011”).
Allow for approximately 0,05 mm to 0,08 mm (0.002” to 0.003”) compression of the pump cover joint when the
holding bolts are torqued down.
9 Calculate the end float of the rotors on the drive shaft to pump body and pump cover (C1). This should be
a minimum 0,08 mm (0.003”) and a maximum 0,15 mm (0.006”).
To replace pump shaft bearings Operation 10-11
1 Using a soft drift knock the split bush bearings from the pump body and cover.
2 Press the new bush into the oil pump body seating it 0,5 mm (A1) below the face of the pump on the drive
gear side.
3 Press the new bush into the oil pump cover lining up the oil hole (B1) and setting the face of the bush level
with the cover body (B2).
Caution: The split bush bearings used in the oil pump are pre-finished to size and do not require reaming after
fitting.
Ren valve lubricating oil top up system (if fitted)
To allow an engine to operate for long unattended periods, a Ren valve may be fitted (by an OEM) to
automatically keep the oil in the engines sump to the required level.
Warning! The centre line on the window of the Ren valve (A1) corresponds with the ‘running’ oil level in the
sump.
The oil level in the sump should be checked on the dipstick before start up. The position of the make-up tank
(A2) should be above the Ren valve to ensure a gravity feed (refer to Manufacturer’s fitting instructions).
The oil in the sump should be changed at the normal intervals.
112
4006/8 In-line Gas
11
Gas system 11
General description
Gas from the regulator mixes with air from the filter in the mixing body before entering the turbocharger, charge
cooler and inlet manifold.
The gas flow to the mixer body is determined by the variation in the combustion air flow supply (depending on
the engine load). Gas is fed into the mixer body proportional to the air flow. This ratio is maintained throughout
the load range by a balance line from the mixer body to the regulator.
The air/gas ratio is adjusted by the mixture setting screw. The flow of the air/gas mixture through the mixer
body to the engine is controlled by the butterfly valve in the throttle body which is operated by the governor,
varying the amount of the mixture admitted to the engine depending on the engine speed (A).
Note: The minimum gas supply pressure required for optimum performance is 15 mbar (1.5 kPa). For
pressures over 50 mbar (5 kPa) refer to Perkins Engines Company Limited, Stafford.
Components of the gas system
A1 Zero pressure regulator A5 Spit back detector

A2 Mixture adjusting screw A6 High air manifold pressure switch (MAP)
A3 Gas control valve (stepper motor) A7 Mixer body
A4 Gas enrichment valve A8 Manifold temperature sensor (MAT)
Warning! The zero pressure regulator (A1) should be stripped and checked at 24,000 hours by specialist
personnel.
Gas control valve
To maintain Operation 11-1
The only moving part of the system is the gas control valve (stepper motor). It should be cleaned and lubricated
every 12 months for natural gas engines and every 6 months for biogas or landfill gas engines.
1 Disconnect the multi-pin plug (A1). Remove the capscrews (A2) and pull the shaft assembly (A3) from the
motor body.
2 Clean the shaft and the internals of the motor body.
3 Lubricate the shaft with silicone grease. Refit the shaft, taking care to locate the ‘O’ ring (A5) and wavey
washer (A4).
4 Check the stepper motor is working by removing one of the gas feed pipes.
5 Turn the ignition on.
6 Looking into the gas feed pipe aperture the shaft (A3) will move out to the internal stop and go back to the
middle position.
7 Turn off ignition and refit the gas feed pipe.
Gas mixer
To clean the venturi Operation 11-2
1 Remove the air filter canister.

2 Remove the three locating grub screws (A1).
3 Pull the venturi (A2) from the gas mixer body (A3).
4 Clean any oil residue from the interior of the mixer body and from the venturi.
5 Check the condition of the ‘O’ rings (A4) and (A5).
6 Apply a light coating of engine oil to the parallel section (A6) of the venturi to assist fitting into the ‘O’ ring
(A4).
7 Push the venturi into the mixer body with the venturi cruciform in line with the mixer screw (A7).
Warning! Misalignment of the venturi will affect the air/gas mixture and engine performance.
8 Fit the locating grub screws (A1), tightening them evenly using hand pressure to retain the venturi.
9 Refit the air filter canister.
Governor
The actuator on the Heinzmann system is connected to the throttle valve by a ball jointed link, and wired to an
electronic engine control box. The engine speed input signal to the control box comes from a magnetic pick-
up set in the flywheel housing. The signal is generated from the starter ring teeth.
Magnetic pick-up
To clean and set Operation 11-3
Special tools
Engine cranking device SE253
1 Small metal particles produced when the engine is cranking over will contaminate the magnetic end of the
speed pick-up and distort the signal.
2 Remove the multi-pin plug (A1).
3 Slacken the locknut (A2).
4 Unscrew the pick-up (A3) from the flywheel housing.
5 Clean the magnetic tip of the pick-up (B1) using a clean dry cloth.
Caution: Do not use a wire brush or any abrasive medium for cleaning.
6 Fit the engine cranking device, see page 48 in the User’s Handbook. Rotate the engine, setting one tooth
of the starter ring gear on the centre line (A4) of the pick-up aperture.
7 Screw the pick-up (A3) into the flywheel housing until it lightly touches the top of a gear tooth, then unscrew
the pick-up half a turn. This should give a clearance of 0,5 to 0,8 mm.
8 Without moving the pick-up tighten the locknut (A2) onto the flywheel housing.
Governor operating link ball joints
1 To assist on assembly, measure the distance (A1) between the retaining bolts.
2 Fit the new ball joints to the operating link (A2) setting them to the dimension obtained.
3 Fit the retaining bolts and check the settings, see Operation 11-5.
4 Lubricate the ball joint with light oil.
Governor actuator
To remove
1 Disconnect the multi-pin plug (A1).
2 Remove the operating linkage (A2).
3 Remove the lever (A3) from the actuator for fitting to the replacement unit.
4 Remove the retaining capscrews (A4) and lift the actuator from its mounting.
To fit
1 Fit the actuator to its mounting, then fit and tighten the retaining capscrews (A4).
2 Fit the operating linkage (A2) to the lever (A3).
3 Fit the operating lever (A3) to the actuator, setting the pointer (A5) in the 10° position.
4 Set up feedback voltage, see Operation 11-6.
5 Reconnect multi-pin plug.
To set feed back voltage Operation 11-6
Special tools
PG01 meter T6253/241
1 Isolate the engine start and ignition system.

2 Remove the magnetic pick-up lead and plug in the PG01 lead (A1). Clip the sensor lead to TP6 in the control
box (A2).
3 Turn on power supply to the control box.
4 Switch on the PG01 and set it to position 2, feedback voltage.
5 Adjust the 1.5 volt stop potentiometer to give a reading of 1.5 volts on the display panel of the PG01.
6 Manually set the actuator at 100% and adjust the 5 volt potentiometer to 5 volts.
7 Check and reset the readings at full and zero travel until they are within ± 0.1 volt between 5 and 1.5 volts.
Isochronous operation and setting droop Operation 11-7
Special tools
PG01 meter T6253/241
Isochronous operation
1 Set the fuel limit switch (A3) to off, position 2 on a three position switch, position 2 or 3 on a four position
switch.
2 Set the external speed potentiometer (A4) to maximum.
3 Switch the PG01 to position 3, engine simulator.
4 Turn the PG01 potentiometer (A5) setting the actuator at 50%.
5 The display panel on the PG01 will show frequency.
Note: The frequency setting for a fixed speed engine is 4,750 Hz and an engine with an external speed
potentiometer 4,800 Hz.
6 Adjust the speed potentiometer (A6) to give a reading of 4,750 Hz or 4,800 Hz as required.
7 Adjust the external speed potentiometer (A4) to bring the 4,800 Hz reading down to 4,750 Hz.
Setting droop
1 Set the speed droop/zero switch (A7) to droop.
2 Adjust the droop potentiometer (A8) to give a reading of 4,980 Hz on the PG01 giving +5% on the engines
rated speed.
Fault finding
Governor does not open on start up
z No signal from magnetic pick-up.
z Excessive magnetic pick-up gap 0,5 - 0,8 mm.
z Check resistance (approx. 52 ohm) at a control unit A2/B2 cable plug.
z Check voltage at starter speed (approx. 1.5V AC) at control unit A2/B2 cable plug.
z Wiring fault - magnetic pick-up defective.
z Indicator lamp must be lit when voltage supply is switched on and go out from starting frequency upwards.
z Speed setting potentiometer connection disconnected or incorrect.
z Check resistance at control unit centre plug, A/C 5 kOhm; A/B and A/C to 5 kOhm.
z Speed setting potentiometer or potentiometers for maximum or low speeds set at too low values.
z Wiring fault in wiring system.
z Shutdown switch engaged.
z Supply voltage inadequate or polarity reversed.
z No DC voltage at control unit.
z Actuator blocked or linkage incorrectly adjusted.
z Actuator defective.
z Check resistance at actuator terminals B/C (approx. 2 Ohm).
z Control unit defective.
Governor moves to maximum position when power supply is switched on
z Wiring fault in system.
z Faults in pick-up cable - check shielding
z Control unit defective.
Engine goes to overspeed after start up
z Maximum speed potentiometer set at too high value.
z Excessive pick-up gap; only a proportion of teeth counted.
z Bad contact by pick-up lead.
z Linkage unable to move freely.
z Feedback voltage incorrectly adjusted.
z Actuator or control unit defective.
z If the actuator applies effort on one side only, the fault lies in the control unit.
Governor not stable
z Faults in pick-up cable - check shielding.
z Faults in speed setting potentiometer - check shielding.
z Load fluctuations.
z Faults in speed setting value, e.g. in the output from a motorised potentiometer or as a result of external
voltage.
z Inadequate supply voltage.
z Poor electrical contact.
z Play or friction in linkage, especially ball joints.
z Governor incorrectly adjusted.
Continued
Speed droops under load
z Droop selector switch not in zero position.
z Actuator is against 100% throttle valve stop - engine is overloaded.
z Stability incorrectly adjusted.
z Fault in control unit.
z Gas supply problem or low calorific value.
124
4006/8 In-line Gas
12
Cooling system 12
General description
For CHP or radiator cooling the system is pressurised. The pressure is regulated by a valve system in the filler
cap. The rubber faced spring loaded valve (A1) opens when pressure in the cooling system exceeds 0,5 to 0,7
bar, allowing coolant and air to be vented through the overflow pipe (A2).
To prevent a vacuum forming in the system as the engine cools or water level falls, the valve (A3) will open.
Note: If the rubber face of the valve (A1) is worn or damaged the filler cap must be replaced.
Warning! Do not remove the filler cap while the engine is hot.
Radiator (if fitted)
1 Check the cooling fins of the radiator for a build up of dust etc. The interval between checks will be
dependant on the engine installation.
2 Compressed air will generally clean off any dust build up. A heavy contamination can be removed with
detergent and hot water jet.
Warning! Personal protective equipment must be worn when using compressed air.
3 If the recommended coolants have been used, refer to page 55 in the User’s Handbook, there should be no
limescale build up in the water tubes.
Note: If there is a limescale build up it is advisable to fit a new radiator, as in most circumstances it would be
impractical to use a descaling agent.
Special tools
Hoist and sling UA
To remove
1 Drain the cooling system.
2 Remove all hose connections between the engine and radiator.
3 Remove the belt guards.
4 Remove the fan-drive belts.
5 Remove bolts holding the radiator to the engine frame.
6 Lift the radiator using the lifting eyes at the top of its side members.
To fit
1 Lift the radiator onto the engine frame.
2 Align and fit finger tight the radiator to engine frame bolts.
3 Check crankshaft pulley to fan pulley alignment.
4 Tighten the radiator to engine frame bolts.
5 Fit and tension fan drive belts.
6 Fit the belt guards
7 Fit all hose connections between engine and radiator.
8 Refill the cooling system, see pages 28-29 in the User’s Handbook.
CHP system
The design and maintenance of the CHP cooling system will be determined for each individual engine
installation by the OEM.
Thermostats
To ensure the engine reaches operating temperature quickly and that working temperature is maintained the
engine has two thermostats fitted in one housing.
Caution: Engines intended for CHP systems, or remote mounted radiators, must be fitted with thermostats
(refer to the Installation Manual TSL 4068).
Warning! Engines must not be run without thermostats.
To remove
1 Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat housing.
2 Remove the coolant pipe (A1).
3 Remove the six nuts (A2) holding the cover (A3). Lift the cover off the thermostat housing.
4 Remove the clamping bolt and washer (A4).
5 Lift the thermostats (A5) from their seats.
To fit
1 Clean and check the condition of the thermostat housing.
2 Refit the thermostats, making sure they are seated and clamped in the housing.
3 Fit a new sealing joint and the housing cover. Tighten the retaining nuts diagonally, pulling the cover
squarely onto the housing.
4 Refit the coolant pipe.
1 Check operation by heating a quantity of water to the temperature stated on the thermostat. Allow enough
water to cover the thermostat completely.
2 When immersed in the heated water the thermostat should open immediately.
3 Remove thermostat from the heated water, after a short time it should close.
4 If the thermostat fails either check, it should be replaced.
Engine coolant pump (if fitted)
To remove
1 Drain the cooling system and remove the coolant pipework from the pump.
2 If fitted remove the alternator drive pulley, see Operation 14-9.
3 Remove three pump mounting bolts (A1).
4 Undo the nut (A2) and remove the bolt (A3).
5 Pull the pump from its location in the gearcase.
To fit
1 Fit a new joint to the pump and lubricate the drive gear. Align the pump with its mounting holes. Rotate the
shaft to allow the drive gear to mesh and push the pump into the gearcase.
2 Fit the mounting bolts. Tighten them evenly by hand, pulling the pump squarely onto the gearcase. Then
torque the bolts down to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
Engine coolant pump shaft support bearing and seal
Note: The coolant pump shaft support bearing and seal replacement is normally undertaken at major overhaul
or as a precaution when a new coolant pump is fitted.
1 Remove the retaining nuts and washers (A1) then lift off the pump shaft cover (A2).
2 Using a soft drift from the gearside of the suspension plate carefully knock out the bearing housing (A3).
3 Remove the seal (B1) and bearing (B2) from the housing (B3). Clean the housing and fit the new bearing
and seal, fitting them squarely into the housing.
4 Fit a new sealing joint to the bearing housing then push the housing into the suspension plate.
5 Fit the retaining nuts and washers, tightening them diagonally, pulling the housing squarely to the
suspension plate. Then torque in the same sequence to 28 Nm (21 lbf ft).
Note: For engines equipped with a battery charging alternator, the drive pulley for the alternator is fitted to the
coolant pump drive shaft. For its removal, see Operation 14-7.
Reconditioning the engine coolant pump
Note: In the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing major overhaul, service exchange coolant pumps
are available from your Perkins distributor as specialised equipment and tooling is required to recondition
them.
To dismantle Operation 12-8
Special tools
Hydraulic press UA Counterface insertion tool T85038/14
1 Remove the pump body cover (A1) from the bearing housing (A2). A light tap from a soft faced hammer may
be necessary.
2 Remove and discard the ‘O’ ring (A3).
3 Hold the drive gear (A4) with soft jaws in a vice. Remove the securing nut (A5) and retaining washer (A6).
4 Release the pump from the vice, pull the drive gear off the shaft and remove the drive key (A7).
5 Take out the bearing retaining circlip (A8). Mount the bearing housing in a press with impeller (A9)
uppermost.
Continued
6 Support the bearing housing on mounting face at (B17) and (B18). Be sure to allow sufficient clearance to
allow the shaft and bearing to be removed.
7 Using a madrell between the press and the pump shaft (B10) at point (B19), a force of around 5 tonnes is
required to push the shaft and bearings from the impeller and housing.
8 Remove the carbon seal assembly (B12) from the impeller and the ceramic counterface (B13) from the
bearing housing, discard both items.
9 Remove and discard the bearing locating rings (B14) and the oil seals (B15). Draw the bearings and distance
piece from the pump shaft.
10 Clean all pump components.
11 Check the pump body and impeller for damage.
To assemble Operation 12-9
Special tools
Hydraulic press UA Counterface insertion tool T85038/14
1 Press bearings (A1) and distance piece (A2) onto the shaft (A3) ensuring that the inner bearing is firmly
against the shaft shoulder.
Note: Pressure should only be exerted on the inner races.
2 Fit oil seal (B1) to the bearing housing.
3 Lubricate the sealing lip with engine oil. Place bearing retaining rings (B2) in the bearing housing, and insert
the shaft/bearing assembly.
4 Fit bearing retaining circlip (B3).
5 Fit key (B4) to the shaft. Slide drive gear (B5) onto the shaft and fit retaining washer (B6) and securing nut
(B7).
6 Grip the gear with soft jaws in a vice and tighten the securing nut to 230 Nm (170 lbf ft).
Continued
7 Lubricate the rubber casing of the ceramic counterface (C1) with a 4% cyclam lubricant solution in
demineralised water.
8 Use special tool T85038/14 to insert the counterface into its recess.
9 Wait 10 minutes to allow the cyclam lubricant to evaporate, allowing the rubber casing to grip and seal to
the housing.
10 Lubricate the rubber face of the carbon seal assembly (C2) with the cyclam solution.
11 Fit the seal into the impeller using tool T85038/14.
12 Wait 10 minutes with tool in place to allow the cyclam lubricant to evaporate and the rubber face to grip the
impeller.
13 Mount the bearing housing assembly on the press bed so the gear face (C3) will take the pressure of
assembly.
14 Set the impeller (C4) squarely on the end of the shaft. Apply load to the impeller at point (C5) and push the
impeller evenly until it is flush with the end of the shaft.
15 Check the assembly is free to rotate.
16 Lubricate a new ‘O’ ring (D1) with cyclam solution and fit to the bearing housing.
17 Fit the pump body (D2). Rotate the shaft to check the impeller clears the pump body.
Raw coolant pump (if fitted)
The raw coolant pump circulates coolant through the charge cooler in a system independent of the engine
cooling system. The pump is mounted at the back of the gearcase and is driven from the engine gear train.
Lubricating oil from the engines pressure rail is piped to the pumps roller shaft support bearings.
In the event of pump failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul service exchange pumps are only
available from your Perkins distributor.
Note: Service exchange pumps are supplied without the drive gear.
Special tools
Peg drive socket T6253/121 Hoist and slings UA
1 Drain the raw cooling system, then drain the pump by removing the plug (A1).
2 Remove the vee-clamps (A2) holding the water pipes to the pump.
3 Release any other pipe support clips etc and remove the water pipes (A3).
4 Discard the sealing rings (A4).
5 Remove the oil feed pipe (A5).
6 Fit the sling around the pump and set the hoist to take the weight of the pump.
7 Remove the retaining nuts (A6) from the mounting plate (A7) and hoist the assembly from the engine.
8 Using a small drift (B1) knock the lock tab up from one of grooves in the locking ringnut (B2).
Continued
9 Hold the drive gear with soft jaws in a vice. Using the peg-drive socket remove the locking ring nut (C1).
10 Release the drive gear from the vice and remove the tab washer (C2). Pull the drive gear (C3) from the
shaft and remove the drive key (C4).
11 Take out the four mounting screws (D1) and remove the mounting plate (D2) from the pump.
Special tools
Peg drive socket T6253/121 Hoist and slings UA
1 Using a new joint fit the mounting plate (A1) to the pump. Tighten the bolts (A2) diagonally by hand, pulling
the pump squarely to the plate, then torque down to 28 Nm (21 lbf ft).
2 Fit the drive key (B1) to the shaft making sure its top edge is parallel with the shaft. Push the drive gear (B2)
onto the shaft and check the key locates in the keyway of the drive gear.
3 Hold the drive gear with soft jaws in a vice. Locate the tab washer (A3) in the shaft. Fit and tighten the ring
nut to 250 Nm (184 lbf ft).
4 Knock a lock tab down into one of the ring nut grooves.
5 Fit a new joint to the gearcase, lubricate the drive gear and fit the pump unit.
6 Tighten the retaining nuts evenly by hand, pulling the mounting plate and pump assembly squarely onto the
gearcase, then torque down to 56 Nm (41 lbf ft).
7 Fit the oil feed pipe to the pump.
8 Fit the water pipes to the pump using new sealing rings.
Caution: It is essential that the pump inlet and outlet connections remain in line (C). If this alignment is
disturbed the pump will not operate.
4006/8 In-line Gas
13
Flywheel and housing 13
Flywheel
Special tools
Hoist and slings UA Pilot studs T6253/157
1 Lock the flywheel to removing the retaining bolts. Put a bolt in one of the tapped holes in the front face of
the flywheel at approximately 10 o’clock, then set a piece of wood between the underside of the bolt head and
the floor (A).
2 Loosen all of the bolts. Take out the two top bolts and fit the pilot studs (B1).
3 Remove the remaining flywheel bolts and fit three 100 mm (4 1/2") UNC bolts (B2) into the threaded holes
in the flywheel.
Continued
4 Tighten the bolts evenly pushing the flywheel off the crankshaft.
5 Screw the bolts in until there is sufficient clearance to thread a rope sling through the flywheel (C).
6 Take the weight of the flywheel with the hoist, then slide it along the studs and lift it clear of the engine.
Special tools
Hoist and slings UA Pilot studs T6253/157
1 Screw the flywheel pilot studs (A1) into the crankshaft.

2 Using the rope sling and hoist, lift the flywheel into position, lining the flywheel up with the pilot studs. Push
the flywheel onto the studs as far as the rope sling allows (A2).
3 Remove the rope sling.
4 Lubricate the flywheel bolt threads and under the bolt heads with engine oil. Fit and tighten them by hand
pulling the flywheel up to the crankshaft.
5 Remove the pilot studs and refit the last two retaining bolts.
6 Lock the flywheel to tighten the retaining bolts. Put a bolt in one of the tapped holes in the front face of the
flywheel at approximately 2 o’clock, then set a piece of wood between the underside of the bolt head and the
floor (B).
Continued
7 Torque the flywheel bolts in the order shown in (C) using the torque sequence in the table below.
Torque
Sequence
Nm lbf ft
1 Hand tight
2 135 100
3 338 250
Starter ring gear
Special tools
Equipment to heat ring gear to 250 °C UA Insulated gloves UA
1 Remove the flywheel from the engine, see Operation 13-1.

2 Drill the ring gear at its base (A1). Set a chisel (A2) between the gear teeth and above the drilling.
3 A sharp blow with a hammer will split the ring gear allowing for its removal.
4 Lay the flywheel on its front face and check the ring gear seating is clean and free from burrs.
5 Heat the ring gear.
Caution: The ring gear is an interference fit and must be heated to 250 °C to give sufficient expansion for
fitting. This must be accurately monitored or damage to the hardened surface will occur.
Note: The starter ring gear must be fitted with the chamfer on the teeth facing the starter motor pinion.
6 Hold the heated ring gear with insulated gloves and fit it to the flywheel.
7 Check it has seated correctly on the shoulder of the flywheel.
Flywheel housing
Flywheel housing removal is normally undertaken at major overhaul. The following procedures are relative to
an engine that has been removed from its installation, and from which all ancillary equipment, flywheel etc, has
been removed.
Special tools
Hoist and sling UA
To remove
1 If still fitted remove the four retaining bolts holding the sump to the gearcase.
2 Using a rope sling passed through the two starter motor holes take the weight of the flywheel housing with
the hoist.
3 Remove the bolts securing the flywheel housing to the crankcase. Carefully pull the flywheel housing from
the dowels locating it to the crankcase, then hoist the housing from the crankcase.
To fit
1 Lightly coat the flywheel housing mating surface on the crankcase with Loctite sealing compound 518.
2 Hoist the flywheel housing back into position carefully locating it on the dowels in the crankcase.
3 Refit all securing bolts, tightening them down evenly to pull the flywheel housing squarely up to the
crankcase, then torque the bolts down to 50 Nm (35 lbf ft).
4006/8 In-line Gas
14
Electrical system 14
General description
The 6 and 8 cylinder gas engines use the Altronic DISN 800 C Series ignition system. The system operates
on a 24 V dc power supply. Its DISN unit steps up the dc supply voltage to charge an energy storage capacitor
with microcircuit logic, and S.C.R. switching to release the stored energy to the ignition coils in a timed
sequence.
The spark timing is provided by magnets set in the camshaft drive gear, and sensed by a pick-up sensor fitted
in the front of the gearcase. The magnets signal the position of the crankshaft to the logic circuit in the DISN
unit and an additional magnet trails a few degrees after the last firing magnet. The DISN unit recognises this
as the index signal that another revolution is to begin.
6 Cylinder engine layout
Item Description Item Description

A1 Timing switches A7 Timing switch gear
A2 DISN unit A8 Spark plugs
A3 Coils A9 Cylinder heads
A4 High tension leads A10 Pick-up
A5 Terminal box A11 7 magnets on camshaft gear
A6 Stop switch A12 Flywheel
8 Cylinder engine layout

A1 Timing switches A7 Timing switch gear
A2 DISN unit A8 Spark plugs
A3 Coils A9 Cylinder heads
A4 High tension leads A10 Pick-up
A5 Terminal box A11 9 magnets on camshaft gear
A6 Stop switch A12 Flywheel
Magnetic sensor
To clean and set Operation 14-1
Special tools
Engine cranking device SE253
1 The ignition must be switched off.

2 Remove power cable (A1).
3 Slacken the locknut (A2) and unscrew the pick-up sensor (A3) out of the gearcase.
4 Check the end of the sensor for damage. Wipe off any metal particles from the magnet in the end of the
sensor.
5 Fit the engine cranking device, see page 48 in the User’s Handbook.
6 Rotate the engine until one of the magnets is on the centre line of the sensor fitting (A4).
7 Screw the sensor (A3) into the gearcase by hand until it touches the magnet on the camshaft drive gear.
8 Unscrew the sensor one turn, then tighten the locknut (A2).
Note: This will give 1 mm clearance between the pick-up sensor and the magnets in the camshaft gear.
9 Refit the power cable (A1).
Ignition timing
To set Operation 14-2
Note: The ignition timing set in the factory is marked on the engine nameplate.
1 Set the engine up with a stroboscope on No. 1 cylinder.
2 Run the engine, and using the stroboscope check the timing marks on the flywheel relative to the pointer in
the flywheel housing aperture (A).
3 To adjust the timing remove the white plastic screw cap (B1) covering the timing switch on the side of the
DISN unit (B2).
4 Using a screwdriver in the slot (B3) turn the adjuster one number at a time clockwise to ‘15’ (advance) and
anticlockwise to ‘0’ (retard).
5 With the ignition timing set refit the screw cap (B1).
Warnings!
z Do not remove the white plastic screw cap (B4).
z Do not adjust application switch (B5).
To troubleshoot Operation 14-3
Check the three LED indicators located on the main panel of the unit. The green POWER indicator is ON when
power is applied. The red PICK-UP and APPLICATION indicators are ON when there is a fault.
Indicator Power applied engine stopped Power applied engine rotating
Power On On
Pick-up On (1)
Off
Application Off Off (2)
(1) No pick-up signal generated due to lack of rotation.

(2) This indicator will flash ON briefly when rotation commences and then turn OFF.
Check the three indicators located on the main panel of the unit. If the engine will not start or run correctly,
crank engine with fuel turned off and check the chart below:
Indication and checks Remedy
Power indicator OFF
1 Check voltage to leads E(+) and F(-) of 6-pin pick-up cable. 1 Must be in the range of 10-32 V dc.
2 If above check is OK: 2 Replace DISN unit.
Pick-up indicator is ON with engine rotating:
1 Check gap between pick-up and magnets. 1 Correct gap.
2 Check cable between pick-up and DISN unit. 2 Connect or replace cable.
3 Pick-up may be defective. 3 Replace pick-up.
4 If above checks are OK: 4 Replace DISN unit.
24 Volt starter motor
Warning! The base nuts of all terminals must not be undone. Slackening of these nuts can cause internal
damage to the connections.
Note: In the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul, service exchange starters are only
available from your Perkins distributor.
To remove
1 Disconnect the batteries.
2 Remove the nut from each main terminal and remove the leads, labelling them to ensure correct
replacement.
3 Remove the retaining setscrews and withdraw the starter motor.
To fit
1 Insert the starter motor into the flywheel housing and refit the retaining setscrews in the mounting flange.
Tighten them down evenly to ensure the starter motor is correctly positioned.
2 Re-connect the leads to each main terminal (A).
1 Relay 3 Start interlock
2 Start switch 4 Starter motor
Battery charging alternator (if fitted)
Note: In the event of failure or if the engine is undergoing a major overhaul, service exchange alternators are
only available from your Perkins distributor.
Warning! Running the engine with the batteries disconnected may damage the alternator.
1 Disconnect the batteries.
2 Remove the guard around the alternator (A1) (this is a three piece item). Start by removing the three bolts
(A2) retaining a small square plate (A3) to the guard. This is located on the underside of the alternator.
3 Remove the single bolts (A4) holding the guard together.
4 Remove the top and bottom retaining bolts (A5) then lift off the guard.
5 Disconnect the wiring. There are two bolt on and two push on connections, mark them for refitting.
6 Slacken the locknut on the pivot bolt (B1). Remove the drive belt tensioning bracket (B2).
7 Take out the pivot bolt and while supporting the alternator remove the drive belt (B3), then lift the alternator
from the engine.
Warning! Running the engine with the batteries disconnected may damage the alternator.
1 Locate the drive belt on the pulleys and fit the pivot bolt (B1).
2 Fit the tensioning bracket (B2) and tighten all retaining bolts.
3 Fit electrical connections and guard (A1).
Caution: The toothed belt used to drive the alternator relies on tooth engagement to transmit the load. It does
not require pre-loading.
Alternator drive pulley (on alternator)
1 Remove the nut (A1) and spring washer (A2) from the alternator.
2 Remove the two locking grub screws (B1). Insert one screw into the extractor hole (B2) and tighten until the
pulley is free and can be pulled from the hub sleeve.
Note: The pulley fits on to an adaptor sleeve (C1) which is located by a woodruff key (C2).
3 Using a hammer and drift carefully drive the sleeve from the shaft. Prise out the key. Finally remove the fan
(D1), washer (D2) and spacer (D3).
1 Fit the spacer, washer and fan.

2 Fit the key (A2) into the shaft making sure its top edge is parallel with the shaft.
3 Fit the adaptor sleeve (A1) and tap into position using a soft faced hammer or drift.
4 Fit the spring washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 28 Nm (21 lbf ft).
5 Check the shaft rotates freely.
6 Push the drive pulley onto the adaptor sleeve. Oil the threads of the locking grub screws and screw them
evenly into the locking holes of the hub (B1).
7 Tighten the locking grub screws alternately until they are at the required torque.
8 To ensure the hub assembly has seated squarely, using a soft faced hammer or drift, give light blows evenly
spaced around the front face of the pulley.
Note: The screws will now turn a little more. Repeat this action to achieve maximum grip.
9 Fill the empty hole with grease to exclude dirt.
10 Check tightness of the screws after a few hours operation.
Alternator drive pulley (on engine)
To remove
1 To gain access to the alternator drive pulley which is mounted on the water pump shaft, first remove the belt
guard and the alternator, see Operation 14-5.
2 Remove the two locking screws from the hub of the drive pulley (A1).
3 Insert one screw into the extractor hole (A2) and tighten until the hub assembly is loose and can be pulled
from the shaft.
4 Remove the drive key (A3) from the shaft.
To fit
1 Fit the pulley drive key into the shaft making sure its top edge is parallel with the shaft (B1).
2 Oil the threads of the grub screws and fit them finger tight into the locking holes (B2).
3 Push the drive pulley assembly onto the pump shaft. Check the drive key locates in the keyway of the hub.
4 Tighten the grub screws alternately until they are at the required torque of 20 Nm (14 lbf ft).
5 To ensure the hub has seated squarely, use a soft faced hammer or drift to give light blows evenly spaced
around the front face of the pulley.
Note: The screws will now turn a little more. Repeat the action to achieve maximum grip.
6 Fill the empty hole with grease to exclude dirt.
7 Check tightness of screws after a few hours operation.
Combined low oil pressure/high water temperature protection unit (if fitted)
Protection switch settings
Low oil pressure High coolant temperature
Alarm Shutdown Thermostat Alarm Shutdown
71 °C 91 °C 96 °C
2 2
2,06 bar (30 lb/in ) 1,93 bar (28 lb/in ) 85 °C 96 °C 101 °C
96 °C 100 °C 105 °C
This dual protection switch monitors water temperature through a phial in its base (A1) which is immersed in
the engines coolant and oil pressure which is sensed by a diaphragm which is piped (A2) into the engines oil
circuit.
An electrical connection is made or broken when fault conditions occur.
Note: The unit is preset at the factory and should not require any further adjustment on site.
Engine overspeed protection unit (if fitted)
The overspeed switch monitors and provides control switching outputs for engine cranking termination, fuel
enrichment and overspeed protection.
The input signal to the speed monitor unit is derived from a magnetic pick-up located close to the teeth on the
flywheel gear ring.
The unit can be calibrated so that the rotational speed may be compared with three pre-set levels, representing
the crank termination speed (START), the fuel enrichment speed and the overspeed limit.
When the speed detected exceeds any of these pre-set values, a corresponding switch is energised and a
change-over relay at the output terminal will change state.
Front panel indicator lights are illuminated if the impedance of the connection to the magnetic transducer has
fallen below 40 ohms or has exceeded 1200 ohms. This will in turn operate the ‘OVERSPEED’ relay.
‘START’ indicates that the cranking termination speed set at 600 rev/min has been reached, and that the
change-over relay at terminals 12, 13 and 14 has changed state. The load output relay at terminals 15, 16 and
17 is used to energise a fuel enrichment solenoid at 400 rev/min. This fuel enrichment solenoid is then de-
energised by a thermostat when the engine reaches 70 °C water temperature.
‘OVERSPEED’ indicates that the maximum desirable speed has been exceeded and that the relay at terminals
18, 19 and 20 has changed state. This relay can be connected to operate an engine shutdown if required. For
rev/min or frequency indication, an output is available to allow use of a 1 mA meter to be calibrated as required.
Model 300 circuit diagram
B1 +ve supply B8 Start
B2 Module latch enable B9 Sensor trip
B3 Close if individual latches not required B10 Screen
B4 Mag pick-up B11 Start
B5 -ve supply B12 Run
B6 Run B13 Overspeed
B7 Run B14 Frequency meter
Cooling system immersion heater (if fitted)
To assist starting under cold climatic conditions, the engines coolant is maintained at running temperature by
2 kw immersion heater.
The immersion heater is controlled by a thermostat when the water temperature has reached 37,8 °C (100 °F),
it automatically cuts off the electrical supply to the heater.
When the temperature of the jacket water drops to 26,7 °C (80 °F), the immersion heater is automatically
switched on again.
Note: Power supply to the immersion heater must be isolated when the engine is running.
4006/8 In-line Gas
15
Auxiliary equipment 15
List of auxiliary equipment

The following is a list of available factory supplied options. For maintenance details refer to the relevant section
in either this Workshop Manual or the User’s Handbook.
z Detonation sensor wiring rail, refer to page 16.
z Ren valve lubricating oil top up system, refer to page 111.
z Engine cooling radiator, refer to page 126.
z Engine coolant pump, refer to page 131.
z Raw coolant pump, refer to page 137.
z Battery charging alternator, refer to page 154.
z Combined low oil pressure/high water temperature protection unit, refer to page 159.
z Engine overspeed protection unit, refer to page 160.
z Cooling system immersion heater, refer to page 162.
z Change-over oil filters, refer to page 42 in the User’s Handbook.
164
4006/8 In-line Gas
16
Special tools 16
Tools for the removal of valve gear, air and exhaust manifolds, water pipes and
cylinder heads
Note: Items marked “UA” are universally available.
Part No. Description
UA 8 - 20 mm Hexagon bit set and drive adaptor
UA 24 mm A/F Socket 1/2” square drive
UA 27 mm A/F Socket 1” square drive
UA Adaptor 3/4” square female x 1/2” square male
UA Torque wrench 1” square drive 350 - 700 lbf ft
UA Torque wrench 3/4” square drive 50 - 100 lbf ft
UA 24 x 27 mm Open ended spanner
T6253/237 Cylinder head lifting tool
Continued
Tools for intermediate engine overhaul
Note: Items marked “UA” are universally available.
Part No. Description
T6253/139 Piston ring compressing tool
T6253/140 Rear oil seal insertion kit
T6253/141 Front oil seal insertion kit (6 cylinder engine)
T6253/141A Front oil seal insertion kit (8 cylinder engine)
T6253/149 Mandrel for insertion 1/2” core plugs
T9142/8 Cup plug mandrel
T6253/199 Camshaft bearing removal and refit kit
T6253/152 Liner extractor
T6253/159 Small end bush insertion and extractor
T6253/200 Liner clamp kit
T85001/33 Crankshaft gear spacer tool
T6253/142 Camshaft guide tube
UA Circlip pliers - internal
T6253/157 Support studs
T6253/209 Crankshaft pulley extractor
T6253/256 Piston ring expander pliers
T6253/236 Lifting eye for gearcase
T6253/295 Pump action suction tool - piston removal
UA 15 mm x 17 mm Combination spanner
T6253/241 Governor setting tool
SE671K 30° Indicator socket
UA Ratchet wrench 340 Nm (250 lbf ft) range
UA De-glazing brush
T85002/4 Valve seat insertion tool
T85090/2 Valve guide fitting tool

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4006/8 In-line Gas

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 1

2 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 3

4 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 5

6 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Danger from ‘fluorosilicone’ (Viton) ‘O’ ring seals

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 7

8 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Basic engine data

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 9

Crankcase and crankshaft groups

Lubricating oil pump

10 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Radiator fan drive (if fitted)

Battery charging alternator (if fitted)

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 11

Note: These figures are based to BS3692.

12 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Design size Wear limits

Piston ring gap

Second compression ring 0,60 0.024 0,85 0.033

Oil control ring 0,60 0.024 0,85 0.033

Piston ring groove width

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 13

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 15

To remove and to fit Operation 3-1

Warning! Turn off the gas and isolate the engine.

16 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

To remove Operation 3-2

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 17

To fit Operation 3-3

1 Refit the oil feed rail and ignition coils as an assembly.

18 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

To remove the inlet manifolds Operation 3-4

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 19

To fit the inlet manifolds Operation 3-5

20 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 21

To fit the exhaust manifolds Operation 3-7

22 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 23

To remove Operation 3-9

1 Remove the spark plug lead (A1).

24 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

1 Fit a new rocker box sealing joint to the cylinder head.

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 25

To inspect Operation 3-11

26 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 27

To remove Operation 3-13

28 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 29

To fit Operation 3-14

30 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 31

To remove Operation 3-15

32 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002 33

To remove and fit Operation 3-17

34 Workshop Manual, TSL 4078E, April 2002

To remove Operation 3-18