Chap 102

start
Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

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OBJECTIVES:
After studying Chapter 102, the reader should
be able to:
• Prepare for ASE Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle (A2) certification test
—content area “A” (General Transmission
/Transaxle Diagnosis),
—content area “B” (Transmission/Transaxle
Maintenance and Adjustment),
—content area “C” (In-Vehicle Transmission
/Transaxle Repair), and
—content area “D” (Off-Vehicle
Transmission/Transaxle Repair). Continued
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OBJECTIVES:
After studying Chapter 102, the reader should
be able to:
• Describe what to look for during a test-drive.
• Explain how to perform a system pressure
test.
• Describe how to test a vacuum modulator.
Continued
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KEY TERMS:
Stall test
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PRELIMINARY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/
TRANSAXLE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS
The first step in diagnosing any problem is to test-drive the
vehicle and verify the customer complaint (concern).
Before test-driving the vehicle, check the level and condition of

the automatic transmission/transaxle fluid. Follow the procedure
for checking the level as published in the owner’s manual or
factory information. If the fluid level is low, add fluid until the
proper level is achieved before test-driving the vehicle.
See also Figure 102–1.
Figure 102–2 A typical automatic transmission/transaxle fluid level indicator (dipstick). The
add mark usually indicates that the fluid level is down 1/2 quart (1/2 liter). Always measure the
fluid level according to the instructions usually imprinted on the dipstick itself.
Continued
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Figure 102–1 Typical automatic transmission fluid level indicator (dipstick). The clip on this
indicator keeps the dipstick from being forced upward due to pressure changes inside the
transmission. The seal also helps prevent water from getting into the fluid, which can cause
severe damage to the friction discs and other components inside the transmission.

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Use Manual First Gear as a Diagnostic Aid
If the transmission/transaxle slips during acceleration when the shift lever
is placed in the drive position, try placing the gear selector in the manual
firstposition. If the internal holding clutch(s) is slipping, the additional
pressure applied to the clutch when the manual first gear is selected
may be enough to allow the vehicle to move.
If the vehicle moves when manual first gear is selected and will not move
when drive is selected, then the clutches are worn and must be replaced.
This information is helpful during diagnosis, when learning as much

information as possible about the transmission/transaxle before
disassembly is important so that the known problem areas can
be carefully checked.

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Road Testing After checking the fluid, perform a thorough test-
drive and note the following:
Note how the shifts feel The shifts may be too harsh or too
soft. This could indicate a fluid pressure problem or worn
clutch or bands.
Note when the shifts occur The shifts may occur too early or
too late. Either of these concerns could be caused by a
defective governor or vehicle speed sensor, vacuum modulator
(if so equipped), or TV cable adjustment (if so equipped). For
example, a defective vacuum modulator will likely cause a
delayed upshift and often a harsh downshift.
Continued
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Quick-and-Easy Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis
An experienced technician told the beginning technician that automatic
transmission/transaxle diagnosis is often very easy. For example:
• If the vehicle does not move in drive or reverse—remove the
transmission/transaxle for service because the problem is likely
mechanical rather than hydraulic (valve body) or electrical (computer,
solenoids, or sensors). If the unit will not power the vehicle, the unit will
more than likely require removal for a thorough mechanical inspection
and repair.
• If the vehicle moves, but does not shift correctly—the problem is
likely electrical (computer, solenoid, or sensor) or hydraulic (valve
body) rather than mechanical. This is usually true because if the
vehicle is able to move forward and backward, the major mechanical
components, though not in like-new condition, are at least able to
function. Therefore, correcting the nonmechanical problem should be
the technician’s first consideration.

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CAUTION: Some vehicle manufacturers do not recommend performing
a stall test because it can be dangerous if the brakes were to fail during the
test and it places stress on the engine. Always follow the manufacturer’s
recommended service procedures.
Stall Testing the Torque Converter A stall test is often

performed to verify the proper operation of the torque converter.
Step #1 Drive until normal operating temperature is achieved.
Step #2 Check stall speed specs for the vehicle being serviced and
connect a tachometer to the engine.
Step #3 With your left foot firmly applied to the brake pedal,
move the shift selector in the drive position and depress the
accelerator pedal to the floor. Observe the maximum engine speed.
This engine speed is the stall speed. See Figure 102–3.
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Step #4 Release the accelerator as soon as possible to avoid
the possibility of overheating the automatic transmission fluid.
Repeat the test with the gear selector in reverse.
Figure 102–3 This four-cylinder General Motors vehicle has a stall speed of about 2350 RPM.
Notice that the gear selector is in drive and the speedometer is reading zero.
Continued
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CAUTION: There are many other possible causes of poor performance
or slow acceleration beside a fault with the automatic
transmission/transaxle. The stall test is just one test that can be performed
to help narrow the problem to the root cause.
Step #5 Compare the results with the specifications.
• If the engine speed is higher than specifications, a holding

clutch or band is slipping.
• If the engine speed is lower than specifications, the torque
converter is defective (one-way clutch or stator is slipping)
or the engine is not producing normal output.
Both conditions can result in reduced vehicle performance and

slow acceleration.

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The Stalling Lumina
The owner of a Chevrolet Lumina complained that the vehicle would

occasionally stall when slowing to a stop. The problem only occurred
after at least 20 miles and occurred more frequently in warm weather.
The service technician was aware Figure 102–4 Typical torque converter clutch
(TCC) solenoid. This TCC solenoid on a GM
of this common problem and vehicle can be replaced without removing the
installed a new torque converter transmission/transaxle from the vehicle.
clutch solenoid.
When the original solenoid got

hot, it became stuck in the applied
position. Even though the voltage
was removed from the solenoid
when the brakes were applied, the
solenoid and the torque converter
clutch (TCC) remained applied.

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The Rough Idle Story
The owner of a Chevrolet pickup truck equipped with a V-6 engine complained of a rough idle. The idle was smooth when the transmission was in park or neutral but became rough when the gear
selector was placed in any drive gear position.
The tech could not find the cause of the problem but did notice the engine seemed to be under a heavy load at idle speed due to the MAP sensor reading. The customer was questioned again about
the possibility of a previous repair that may have had an effect on the idle.
The customer said that the automatic transmission had been replaced recently but didn’t think that could have an effect on the rough idle problem. A check indicated a much lower stall speed than
normal—1400 RPM versus 1850 RPM normal stall speed. Either the torque converter was defective or a converter for a V-8 was installed in the V-6 truck. After getting a replacement converter
installed, the idle problem was solved.

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Vibration—Engine or Transmission?
A vibration is often difficult to diagnose. One method is to separate (unbolt) the torque converter from the engine drive plate. Push
the torque converter as far toward the transmission/transaxle as possible, then start the engine.
If the vibration is gone, the problem is due to a fault in the torque converter, pump assembly, or other component that is constantly
rotating with the engine running. If the vibration is still present, then the cause is due to an engine or accessory problem.

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Torque Converter Clutch Diagnosis The torque converter clutch
is usually applied above 30 Mph (48 km/h) when the automatic
transmission/transaxle is in second, third, or overdrive gear.
It is often difficult to distinguish between a normal shift and the

application of the torque converter clutch. The torque converter
clutch (TCC) may not even be applying due to a fault in the
computer sensors, wiring, or the TCC solenoid.
NOTE: If the torque converter clutch does not apply, a drop in fuel
economy is commonly reported. If the TCC fails to apply on an automatic
transmission/transaxle, the automatic transmission fluid is likely to become
overheated due to the torque converter operating under the increased load
of an overdrive gear ratio. The higher fluid temperature can cause the
automatic transmission/transaxle to fail.
Continued
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To test for proper operation of the torque converter clutch, simply
drive the vehicle and watch either the tachometer on the dash or
connect a scan tool to observe the engine RPM.
Step #1 Drive the vehicle until the engine has reached normal
operating temperature.
Step #2 Drive the vehicle on a flat, level road away from any
traffic about 50 Mph (80 km/h).
Step #3 While maintaining constant speed with your right foot on
the accelerator, gently apply the brake pedal with your left foot to
open the electrical circuit for the torque converter clutch through
the brake switch. The TCC will disengage and the RPM should
increase about 150 to 250 RPM and then drop back when the brake
is released. This RPM change is your proof the TCC is working.
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Scan Tool Testing the Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
A scan tool can display information about the various sensors and components
that can assist the service technician in determining the cause of many automatic
transmission/transaxle problems.
A weak or missing engine can cause the vehicle to lack power, jerk, and hesitate.
These symptoms are often blamed on an incorrectly shifting or slipping automatic
transmission/ transaxle.
See Figure 102–5.
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Figure 102–5 A Tech 2 scan tool being used to check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and
data stream information that may affect the operation of the automatic transmission/ transaxle.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes

(DTCs) If there are any
DTCs stored in the memory
of the vehicle computer, a
problem has been detected
that should be corrected
before further testing.
Continued
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Scan Data A properly operating engine should display the
following readings with engine at idle and operating in closed loop:
Engine coolant temperature (ECT)—between 180º to

215ºF (82º to 102ºC).
Throttle position (TP) sensor—usually between 0.5 to 4.5

volts and varying directly with throttle movement.
Fuel injector pulse width—1.5 to 3.5 ms.
O2S–200 to 800 mV.
Transmission fluid temperature—less than 275ºF (135ºC).

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Brake switch—scan data should show a change when the
break pedal is pressed and released.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor—with the

engine idling in park or neutral, the voltage should be within
0.88 and 1.62 volts or between 102 and 109 hertz for a Ford
MAP sensor.
NOTE: If the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is

too high, the computer will modify the shift pattern (usually disabling
overdrive) and engage the TCC at slower speeds in an attempt to drop the
temperature of the ATF to less harmful temperatures. This computer
control of the shifting may be noticeable to the driver as a fault.
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NOTE: Shift solenoids vary in resistance, yet may look the same. An
on/off solenoid usually has twice as much electrical resistance as a pulse
width modulated shift solenoid. Always double-check that the correct
replacement solenoids are used.
Commanding the Shifts Many test tools can be used to actually cause
the automatic transmission/transaxle to shift electrically.
The tester is connected to the electrical connector at the automatic

transmission/transaxle after disconnecting the factory connector.
To perform this simple test, safely hoist the vehicle, start the engine, and
place the gear selector in the drive position. The
tester can now command the various shift solenoids to actuate.
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Testing the Vacuum Modulator A vacuum modulator is used on
many hydraulically shifted automatic transmissions/ transaxles. To
check for proper operation of the vacuum modulator:
Step #1 Hoist the vehicle safely and locate the vacuum modulator.
NOTE: The vacuum modulator used on the General Motors 4T60

(formerly called 440-T4) is located toward the front of the vehicle and is
accessible from under the hood without the need to hoist the vehicle. This
vacuum modulator is not used to control shift points, but is rather used to
control shift feel. Higher engine loads (lower vacuum to the vacuum
modulator) result in a firmer shift; at light engine loads, the shift is
softened.
See Figure 102–6.
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Figure 102–6 A view of a General
Motors 4T60 (440-T4) automatic
transaxle showing the electrical
connector and the vacuum
modulator. ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
Step #2 Remove the

VACUUM
vacuum hose from the MODULATOR
vacuum modulator.
If automatic transmission
fluid drips out when the
hose is removed, the
vacuum modulator is
defective and must be
replaced.
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Step #3 Use a hand-operated vacuum pump to apply vacuum
to the vacuum modulator. If the modulator is okay, the vacuum
reading will hold steady and not drop. If the vacuum modulator
will not hold vacuum, the modulator should be replaced.
Step #4 Connect a vacuum hose to the vacuum line from the

intake manifold and have an assistant start the engine. The
vacuum reading at the vacuum modulator should be 17 to 21 in.
Hg with a minimum vacuum reading of 15 in. Hg to be assured of
proper shifting of the automatic transmission/transaxle.

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White Exhaust Smoke Is Not Necessarily Due
to a Blown Head Gasket
A defective vacuum modulator can cause automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to be drawn by engine
vacuum into the intake manifold. When ATF burns, it produces white smoke. The white smoke is often
confused with steam. Therefore, the smart technician should check to see if the vehicle is equipped with a
properly functioning vacuum modulator before continuing the diagnosis for steam coming from the tail pipe.

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Range Charts All vehicle manufacturers publish range charts that
indicate which holding device is applied or holding for each gear
selection.
Knowing which component is being used when helps the service

technician determine the cause of a failure or problem.
See Figure 102–7 for a sample chart for a hydraulically shifted

automatic transmission.
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Figure 102–7 A range chart for a General Motors 4L60 (formerly called the 700-R4) rear-wheel
drive transmission. Notice that the forward clutch is applied in all forward gears. Also notice
that if the low-reverse clutch were to fail, it would prevent the vehicle from moving in both
reverse and manual first.
See the chart on Page 1317 of your textbook. Continued

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Pressure Testing involves connecting a pressure gauge to taps
located on the outside of the automatic transmission/transaxle;
Figure 102–8 The locations (taps) for connecting a pressure gauge to measure the pressure of
the various hydraulic circuits are usually on the sides of the automatic transmission/transaxle.
Some may not be very accessible. Check factory service information for the exact locations for
the vehicle being serviced.
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After connecting the gauge(s) to the transmission/transaxle, start the
engine and select the gear being monitored. If the pressure is not
within specs, the tech knows that the fault is internal and usually
involves either removing the valve body, or in many cases,
removing the automatic transmission/transaxle from the vehicle.
See Figure 102–10.
Figure 102–9 A pressure gauge

connected to check mainline
pressure.
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Figure 102–10 Six pressure gauges are installed on this vehicle to show students at a college
how the pressures vary and how the gauges can be used to find faults or possible problem
areas before the unit is removed and disassembled.

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Removing the Automatic Transmission Pan for Inspection
The inspection of the fluid and the transmission pan should be
part of any thorough transmission/transaxle diagnosis. Removing
the pan from an automatic transmission/transaxle can be a dirty
and messy job. To make the job as easy as possible:
Step #1 Hoist the vehicle safely.
Step #2 Position a large drain pan under the transmission pan.
Step #3 Loosen all of the oil pan bolts. ATF will start to flow out
from around the gasket.
Step #4 Remove all of the oil pan bolts except for two at one end.
This will allow the pan to drop and empty most of the ATF into the
drain container without falling. After most of the ATF has drained,
remove the remaining bolts and remove the pan.
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Hot Fluid
The automatic transmission fluid may be hot enough to cause personal
injury. Wear protective clothing and avoid contact with the hot fluid.
Step #5 Inspect the inside of the pan for excessive friction

material and wear metals (such as lead and copper from bushings).
Use a magnet to check for steel particles, which would indicate
serious wear to major components.
Figure 102–11 This is a normal amount of

wear material in the bottom of an automatic
transmission oil pan.
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NOTE: The presence of wear metals in the pan of an automatic
transmission/transaxle does not necessarily mean that a part(s) has failed or
needs to be replaced. Some wear is normal. If there are a lot of metallic
particles in the pan, then this may be an indication of severe gear failure
that may require replacement. Use a magnet to check for steel particles.
Ask the advice of an experienced transmission expert, if in doubt, about
whether the wear should be considered “normal.”

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The Customized Van Story - Part 1
The owner of a customized General Motors van equipped with an
electrically shifted automatic transmission (4L80-E) complained the
automatic transmission downshifted into second gear and stayed in second
gear whenever the headlights were turned on.
The transmission shifted okay when the headlights were turned off.
After hours of troubleshooting, including the replacement of the vehicle
computer (which did not help), it was discovered that 4 volts DC were
on the one wire leading from the vehicle speed (VS) sensor to the
vehicle computer whenever the headlights were turned on.
There was a short-to-voltage between a light wire and the sensor wire.
Instead of totally disassembling the van, it was decided to replace the wire
with a new one, and the problem was solved.

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The Customized Van Story - Part 2
The 4 volts DC apparently shut down the computer. When the computer stopped controlling the shifts, both A and B solenoids were
shut off. With both solenoids A and B off, the transmission was in second gear.
This is the default gear or the limp-in-mode gear for this transmission.
After replacing the wire, the automatic transmission returned to manual operation allowing the driver to drive at night and in the
daytime.

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What Is Wrong When My Automatic Transmission Does
Not Upshift at All?
There are several things that can cause a transmission/transaxle to fail to
upshift, including:
• A defective governor (if so equipped) will often not allow any
automatic transmission/transaxle to shift out of first gear.
• A defective vacuum modulator (if so equipped) will often delay the
shift until a very high speed is achieved.
• A fault in the computer or sensor. On electronically shifted automatic
transmissions/transaxles, one gear, usually second or third, is selected
and the unit will not shift out of that gear.

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Band Adjustment Some automatic transmissions/transaxles
allow the technician to adjust the clearance between the band
and the drum inside the unit.
The procedure usually involves tightening the adjustment nut
or bolt to a specified torque reading and then backing off the
adjustment nut or bolt a specified number of times.
Some bands are adjusted using
selective length pushrods and
some are not adjustable at all.
Band(s) should be adjusted

whenever fluid is changed or
whenever recommended by
the vehicle manufacturer.
Figure 102–12 Adjusting the intermediate
band on a Ford A4LD transmission.
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Linkage Adjustment The linkage between the shift selector and the
automatic transmission should be checked for proper adjustment
whenever there is a transmission-related problem.
The linkage may need to be adjusted to compensate for worn linkage

components. Before adjusting the linkage, check the
engine and transmission/transaxle mounts carefully because a
defective mount is a common reason for needing a linkage adjustment.
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Use Old Headlights to Check Wiring - Part 1
The proper operation of any electronically shifted automatic transmission/ transaxle depends on having
electrical power available to operate the solenoids. Before removing the unit from the vehicle, use a headlight
to check if there is enough current being sent to the unit. Unplug the electrical connection that supplies 12
volts, usually from the ignition switch. Use a headlight and attach wires to the ground and the bright filament
terminals.
Attach one test lead from a headlight

to the terminal that supplies 12 volts
to the unit. Attach the other lead from
the headlight to a good clean chassis
or transmission ground such as the
case. Turn the ignition on (KOEO)
and observe the headlight.
Figure 102–13 A tester made from a headlight

showing wires attached to the ground and the
bright filament terminals.

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Use Old Headlights to Check Wiring - Part 2
• If there is a dim headlight, there is a voltage drop between the source (battery) and the transmission feed.
Check the wires directly leaving the ignition switch. If the headlight is still dim, replace the ignition switch.
See Figure 102–14.
• If the headlight is off, then there is an open circuit between the battery and the transmission/transaxle.
Follow electrical troubleshooting procedures to find and repair the open circuit.
• If the headlight is bright, there is enough voltage and current being supplied to the transmission/transaxle
to correctly operate all of the solenoids. See Figure 102–15.

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Figure 102–14 A dim headlight indicates
excessive resistance between the battery
and the electrical connector to automatic
transmission/transaxle.
Figure 102–15 A bright headlight

indicates that there should be
sufficient current flow available at the
automatic transmission/transaxle to
operate all the solenoids correctly.

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SUMMARY
1. The first step in the diagnosis of an automatic
transmission/transaxle problem is to verify the complaint.
2. The automatic transmission fluid level should be checked
before performing a thorough road test.
3. A stall test involves accelerating the engine at wide-open
throttle with the automatic transmission/transaxle gear selector
in drive and your foot on the brake. The maximum attainable
engine speed is called the stall speed.
4. A stuck torque converter clutch solenoid can cause the engine
to stall when the vehicle slows to a stop.
Continued
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SUMMARY (cont.)
5. A scan tool can be helpful in the diagnosis of electronically
shifted automatic transmissions/transaxles. All engine-related
diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) should be corrected before
further diagnosis of the transmission/transaxle is attempted.
6. A vacuum modulator should be able to hold a vacuum applied
by a hand-operated vacuum pump.
7. Most automatic transmissions/transaxles are equipped with
pressure taps that allow a service technician to check
mainline and other hydraulic pressures in the unit.

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end

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start

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Before test-driving the vehicle, check the level and condition of

See also Figure 102–1.

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

This information is helpful during diagnosis, when learning as much

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Stall Testing the Torque Converter A stall test is often

Step #5 Compare the results with the specifications.

• If the engine speed is higher than specifications, a holding

Both conditions can result in reduced vehicle performance and

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

The owner of a Chevrolet Lumina complained that the vehicle would

When the original solenoid got

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

It is often difficult to distinguish between a normal shift and the

See Figure 102–5.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Engine coolant temperature (ECT)—between 180º to

Throttle position (TP) sensor—usually between 0.5 to 4.5

Fuel injector pulse width—1.5 to 3.5 ms.

O2S–200 to 800 mV.

Transmission fluid temperature—less than 275ºF (135ºC).

Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor—with the

NOTE: If the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is

The tester is connected to the electrical connector at the automatic

NOTE: The vacuum modulator used on the General Motors 4T60

See Figure 102–6.

Step #2 Remove the

Step #4 Connect a vacuum hose to the vacuum line from the

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Knowing which component is being used when helps the service

See Figure 102–7 for a sample chart for a hydraulically shifted

See the chart on Page 1317 of your textbook. Continued

See Figure 102–10.

Figure 102–9 A pressure gauge

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Step #5 Inspect the inside of the pan for excessive friction

Figure 102–11 This is a normal amount of

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Band(s) should be adjusted

The linkage may need to be adjusted to compensate for worn linkage

Attach one test lead from a headlight

Figure 102–13 A tester made from a headlight

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Figure 102–15 A bright headlight

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service, 3rd Edition ©©2008

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