TEXTILE TRADE & INDUSTRY

INTRODUCTION

1.BRIFE INTRODUCTION
2.HISTORY
3. ANALYSIS

1.BRIFE INTRODUCTION
CLASSIFICATION & SOURCES OF TEXTILE FIBRES

A fibre is a fine hair-like structure and is considered the raw materials of textiles. Originally fibres
came from natural sources – plant and animals. The 1940s and 1950s saw the introduction of
synthetic or manufactured fibres derived from chemicals. A third group – regenerated – are made
from a natural cellulosic source but are treated with chemicals in the manufacturing process to
form the fibre.

Fibres are classed according to their so

NATURAL FIBRES – VEGETABLE
• non-elastic therefore it creases quite badly
• relatively resistant to abrasion and is durable
• biodegradable
• prone to damage by sunlight, mildew and insects
• highly flammable
FINISHES BLENDS
Mercerising for higher  Polyester
strength and lustre  Polyamide
• Flame retardant –  Modal
Proban finish  Wool
 Viscose
• Stain resistance – Teflon  Elastane
coating  Common blend ratio:
• Crease resistance – 50:50; 60:40; 70:30.
synthetic resin: dries
faster, non-iron.
.

COTTON FABRICS END USES AFTER CARE TESTING

Calico,corduroy, Shirts,blouses, Boil wash; lower Burning:
denim, underwear, temperatures for Burns quickly bright
gingham,drill,terry nightwear, trousers, coloured; can be with afterglow.
Smell:
towelling,chintz, jeans, socks, bleached; iron when Similar to burnt
cambric,lawn, gabardi knitwear, workwear, damp for best paper.
results; can be dry- Residue:
ne,poplin, velvet. tents, threads, towels,
cleaned. Pale grey

2.JUTE

SOURCE PROPERTIES

Cellulosic jute fibres are extracted from the

bark of the jute plant as shown below.
Fibres are long, soft and shiny.

 A magnified view and a cross section of the

Harvesting of the jute fibre is shown below. jute fibre are shown opposite.
Jute is processed in a similar way to linen to  The fibre structure is similar to linen and
extract the fibre. hemp.
 Jute grows quite quickly, with little need for
fertilizers or pesticides.
 Being a natural fibre, jute has similar
properties to other cellulosic fibres.
Jute fibre is:
 absorbent and can absorb up to 23% of water
under conditions of high humidity.
 high in tensile strength, with low extensibility,
making it suitable for agricultural packaging.
 effective at blocking out UV rays, good thermal
insulation and is anti-static making it a good
choice in home furnishings.
 Biodegradable.
HEMP FABRICS & BLENDS FINISHES END USES
Hessian, Imitation silk, canvas Flame proofing Bags, sacking, Geo textiles,
Blends: wool, cotton, other yarn, twine, carpets,
synthetic fibres upholstery,
clothing (lesser extent).

NATURAL FIBRES – ANIMAL (PROTEIN)

3.WOOL
SOURCE PROPERTIES
The most common wool Wool fibres can absorb moisture– up to
fibres come from sheep. a third of its mass without feeling wet.
Despite the ability to absorb moisture
As there are hundreds of
different types and breeds (hygroscopic) the surface or skin
of sheep the wool (epicuticle) of the wool fibre is water
fibres are classed repellent (hydrophobic). The epicuticle
accordingly: causes water to form droplets on the
fineness, length, crimp surface but allows moisture to penetrate
and breed. the fibre core. Wool is able to repel
water

The wool fibre is made because of the

from long chains of natural grease on the
protein molecules fibre surface. Under
(keratin). certain conditions
They are staple fibres. such as friction or
agitation (in washing),
The best wool comes from
the scales found on
the Merino sheep
(shown opposite) and is known for its fine, soft wool fibres (shown
fibres that are tightly crimped, trapping air. opposite) can ‘hook’
This characteristic makes wool ideal for onto each other and
clothing as it retains the body heat. cause felting

Other wool fibres and fabrics include: and/or shrinking of the

• Alpaca – from llamas and alpacas fibres.
• Angora – from angora rabbits and goats
• Mohair – from angora goats
• Cashmere – from camels
• Camel – from camels The protein bundles
in the wool fibre move
Wool Fabrics Blends apart as moisture is
Worsted, Shetland, Cotton, Silk, Polyester absorbed – they
Baize, Flannel Polyamide, Acrylic, swell- but bond
,jersey, Tactel together again as the
Tweed,Serge, Elastane. protein bundles dry
Fleece, Tartan Common blend ratios: out. This gives the
50/50, 55/45,
fibre good elasticity
60/40, 70/30
and reshaping
 qualities.
The three factors that
make wool fibers
good
insulators: the scales,
the crimp and length
of fibre. The surface
scales and crimp in
the fibre help trap air.

Further wool properties:

 Adequate strength but not particularly durable.
 Good extensibility – greater when wet – wool garments should be dried flat to avoid
stretching.
 Good elasticity – due to the structure of the fibre – wool does not crease easily.
 Anti-static – as the fibres always contain some moisture.

Finishes End uses After care Testing

• Shrink resistance – Suits, coats, jumpers Hand and machine Burning: low flame
washable with care. sputtering goes out.
chlorine & cardigans, dresses, Smell: similar to
• Brushing scarves, ties, socks, Slow drying. burning hair.
• Anti-felting hats, gloves. Residue: black
• Moth proofing can be dry cleaned.
cinders.
• Flame retardant Carpets, blankets, do not tumble dry.
furnishings.

 Low Flammability – can be useful in some protective clothing.

Points for Further Investigation and Discussion

 Compare and contrast the quality, properties and end-uses of other wool fibers such as
mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca and llama.
 Analyze the suitability of using 100% wool to make winter coats.
 Investigate the processing of the wool fibers from source to fabric.
 4.SILK
SOURCE
The silk fiber comes from the Mulberry silk
moth. It is the only natural continuous
filament.
Raw silk is produced by the caterpillar
(shown above) when it begins to
pupate. The silk fluid (fibroin – protein)
is secreted from a spinneret below the
caterpillar’s mouth. It winds the fiber
around itself to form a cocoon.
In commercial silk production the
cocoons are harvested before the moth
emerges so that the silk filament
remains unbroken. Unbroken filaments
PROPERTIES
The raw silk fiber is shown opposite. Each
fiber is made up of two long protein
filaments glued together. The properties
of the fiber depend on how these protein
chains lie together inside the filament.
This structure impacts on the strength of
the fibers as well as its lustre and ability to
absorb moisture.
Silk fiber made into fabric is:
 absorbent and can absorb up to a
third of its weight in water vapour
without feeling wet.
 cool to wear as its naturally wicks
away moisture- perspiration.
 strong and resilient – it has good
tenacity due to the length of the
fibers.
 comfortable to wear – because of its
fineness and softness.
 naturally lustrous and smooth due to
can be up to 1000m in length.
Spun silk is formed from staple fibers –
short lengths from damaged cocoons.
These fibers are not as strong or
lustrous as raw silk.
the structure of the fiber; it has a
pleasant handle and drapes well
 anti-static – as the fibers always
 contain some moisture.
resilient – it has moderate elasticity;
most silks do not crease easily.
 a non-conductor of heat – cool in
summer, warm in winter.
• prone to damage by sunlight and mildew
 biodegradable

SILK FABRICS FINISHES

Chiffon, Damask, Taffeta, Crepe de
Chine, Organza, Satin. Wild silk:
Shantung, Doupion.
Applied finishes are dependent on the type
of silk and end-use but could include:
Calendaring, Flame retardant.

BLENDS END USES AFTER CARE TESTING

 Usually processed Clothing: dresses, Cool wash; do not Burning: low flame
as a pure fiber. blouses, lingerie, bleach; iron when sputtering goes out.
 Wool wedding dresses, damp; can be dry- Smell: similar to
cleaned. burning hair.
evening wear. Do not dry clean Residue: black
Accessories: cinders.
scarves, gloves,
Soft furnishings.
WHY TRADE CENTRE FOR TEXTILE?

 India’s textiles sector is one of the oldest industries in Indian economy dating back
several centuries. Even today, textiles sector is one of the largest contributors to India’s
exports with approximately 13 per cent of total exports
 The textiles industry is also Labor intensive and is one of the largest employers. The
textile industry has two broad segments.
 First, the unorganized sector consists of handloom, handicrafts and sericulture, which are
operated on a small scale and through traditional tools and methods.
 The second is the organized sector consisting of spinning, apparel and garments segment
which apply modern machinery and techniques such as economies of scale.
 The textile industry employs about 45 million people directly and 20 million people
indirectly. India's overall textile exports during FY 2015-16 stood at 4000Crores.
 The Indian textiles industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and hand-woven
textiles sectors at one end of the spectrum, while the capital-intensive sophisticated mills
sector at the other end of the spectrum.
 The Indian textile industry has the capacity to produce a wide variety of products suitable to
different market segments, both within India and across the world.

Economic growth is the main factor for developing a region; for economic growth raw materials
resources and industrial development are base but a floor is indeed for vital business contract
&transection market.

MARKET SIZE:

The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 120 billion, is expected to reach
US$ 230 billion by 2020. The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 2 per cent to India’s
Gross Domestic Product (GDP), 10 per cent of manufacturing production and 14 per cent to
overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).

Indian khadi products sales increased by 33 per cent year-on-year to Rs 2,005 crore in 2016-17
and is expected to exceed Rs 5,000 crore sales target for 2018-19, as per the Khadi and Village
Industries Commission (KVIC).

The production of cotton in India is estimated to increase by 9.3 per cent year-on-year to reach
37.7 million bales in FY 2017-18. The total area under cultivation of cotton in India is expected to
increase by 7 per cent to 11.3 million hectares in 2017-18, on account of expectations of better
returns from rising prices and improved crop yields during the year 2016-17.

Indian exports of locally made retail and lifestyle products grew at a compound annual growth rate
(CAGR) of 10 per cent from 2013 to 2016, mainly led by bedding bath and home decor products
and textiles.

2.HISTORY

HOW TRADE FAIRS HAVE EVOLVED?

Tracing the origin of trade exhibitions might be the work of archaeologists rather than of historians.
While it is said that their roots are in the medieval European fairs, very ancient documents talk of
trading places where merchants were selling or bartering a multitude of goods. A reference can
even be found in the Bible (Book of Ezekiel, about 600 BC). Market places developed around
crossroads of long-distance trading routes, such as in the case of the Phoenician city of Type, as
early as the 8th century BC. Ancestors of trade fairs are also the ancient bazaars of the Middle
East. The “Thousand and One Nights” collection of tales – translated into Arabic in the 8th century,
most likely on the basis of much older traditions of Indian and Persian origins – gives vivid
descriptions of the bustling atmosphere of such commercial areas.

It was anyhow during the period towards the end of Middle Age in Europe that fairs started to
flourish and acquire some connotations similar to what exhibitions are today, when cities began to
develop together with the progressive urbanization of people. Previously, under the feudalism, the
economies were largely autarchic. Products were consumed locally and little trade occurred
outside the communities attached to castles and monasteries. Marketplaces anyhow existed also
in those times and fairs were taking place generally to celebrate religious festivities or the
completion of seasonal phases of agricultural works. The word “fair” in fact comes from the Latin
“feria”, which means “holy day”. The differentiating factor between market and fair can be related
to duration: markets were regular and frequent happenings; fairs were commercial events
organized on special occasions.

Not all fairs however originated from religious or cultural festivals. Certain trade fairs were created
by royal decrees to benefit cities and other agglomerations of people, and also charters were
granted to already existing fairs. In this way the authorities, through income taxes, kept control of
the proceeds. By and large preindustrial fairs were based on privileges granted by the civil or
ecclesiastic authority to governing aristocracy. The significant growth of the cities, where people
consumed without producing, helped to increase exponentially the trade traffic of food but also of
non-food products: textiles and clothing, tools and pottery, hides and skins, leather products,
horses and hunting dogs, some jewelry, arms and horse harnesses, etc., were sold alongside
spices and other agro-based products. The old small markets for the barter of products of the
neighborhood were becoming larger events to deal with trade in increasingly valuable goods,
fostering at the same time the circulation of money.

Trade was of course at the core of the fairs, but a variety of people started to mingle with traders
and customers, like acrobats, magicians, charlatans, inventors and minstrels. In this extremely
lively, heterogeneous and noisy environment, many activities were taking place and news and
information exchanged, making the trade fairs a melting pot of cultures and social classes. It may
appear that everything was chaotic, and indeed it was, but with the progressive control on the fairs
by the municipal corporations and guilds (the ancestors of professional associations) rules were
established to protect, to the extent possible, traders and buyers from fraud and extortion or even
from cartels. Special magistrates were supervising and regulating the functioning of the market by
establishing time and place of trade, controlling and divulging prices for the most common
consumer goods, checking the calibration of weighing and measuring tools, ensuring the legality of
the coins used for payment and, in some cases, even the compliance with hygienic rules.

BASICS FOR ORGANIZING TRADE FAIRS

The market was less spontaneous and random than one can imagine: place, opening and closing
time, duration and space for stalls and exhibits (well defined and pedestrian only) were regulated.
At least this was the case in some major fairs.

Fairs proved to be a powerful means to position growing urban settlements at the crossroads of
trade traffic and contribute to their economic development, so they enjoyed a flourishing period.
But the danger for the fairs was around the corner. More traded products went back to markets
allowing weekly and even daily transactions. The natural evolution was the birth of “shops” which,
during the Renaissance, made the fortune of some cities because of their capacity to attract
travelers. Multi-sector fairs started to languish and only continued at the periphery of the most
advanced part of Europe, far from the main trade centers.

Later on, the “industrial revolution” brought about a new physiognomy of fairs, which came closer
to the concept of the modern trade fairs. The factors were mostly two: the increased production
needed to expand the market and the industry was able to easily and limitlessly replicate goods.
This constituted a major turning point in the history of fairs as the old “stocks” fair system – when
goods were sold directly and the manufacturer had to transport bulky quantities of goods and take
the risk of having to sell the unsold ones at discount price, without profit or at a loss, so as to avoid
transporting them back – was replaced by the “sample” fair system. Manufacturers were able to
display only specimens for later delivery. “Industrial exhibitions” became popular during the period
of the industrial revolution when the authorities understood that such events were able to foster
domestic entrepreneurship and enhance the competitive advantage of their towns, countries and
regions.

Meanwhile the industrial development brought about major changes in conducting business.
Inventions such as the telegraph and the telephone and new transport mode through railway and
steamers bridged the distances between sellers and buyers. Specialized commercial houses,
making available international networks, flourished.

In the context of a free trade world, about the end of the XIX century, fairs had almost
disappeared. It was only in the aftermath of the First World War that the powerful role of fairs to
revamp the shuttered economies was rediscovered. The number of fairs grew rapidly up to the
point that by 1925 an international association was created, the “Union des Foires Internationals”
(UFI), bringing together the cities and organizers of major fairs. It was a matter for the organizers
of being on the map, and for the countries of obtaining visibility, market expansion and competitive
advantage assertion. Not surprisingly, countries that moved later into market economies – Eastern
Europe, the former Soviet Union and China – have immediately created trade fairs.

It seems that trade fairs have always been the response to changes in market patterns, economic
recessions and “political” interferences to trade. They also leveraged on economic expansion and
contributed to it. The 1960s witnessed a trade fair boom as many trade associations were formed
or expanded their role. It became standard for each industry to have associations and annual
trade fairs, which helped showcase and execute strategies. With the introduction of marketing
concepts in business, trade fairs were extensively and increasingly used as a prominent part of
marketing strategies. Today they are also a key element of the communication strategies.
 It appeared that, entering into the digital era with the Internet global village, the destiny of trade
fairs was doomed as they were replaced by other types of communication for the business. The
reality has so far demonstrated that trade fairs have not lost their “raison d’être” and, on the
contrary, the new media and technology have contributed to increase their efficiency and
outreach. Organizers are anyhow challenged to make the events increasingly attractive and
appealing and to compete in terms of marketing strategies and distinctive features.

Trade is one of the pillars on which economies are based and it dates back in time
alongside the existence of human societies. Market places and trade fairs have
always been present to facilitate exchange of Many types of events fall under the
generic definition of trade exhibitions. Purpose, contents, audience, periodicity, size
and market breadth can vary, but all have in common the objective of promoting and
facilitating trade.

References:

Ministry of Textiles, Indian Textile Journal, Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion, Press
Information Bureau, Union Budget 2017-18.

3. ANALYSIS

(i) COTTON TEXTILES INCLUDING HANDLOOMS

Cotton Textiles i.e. yarn, fabrics and made-ups (Mill made / Power loom/ Handloom) constitute
more than 2/3rd of our exports of all fibers/yarns/made-ups. During 2004-2005, Cotton Textile
exports including Handlooms were US$ 3.54 billion, recording a decline of 1.5% as compared to
the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the Cotton Textiles exports have
amounted to US$ 4.49 billion, recording a healthy increase of 26.78% over the exports during the
corresponding period of 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Cotton Textiles
including Handlooms exports have amounted to US$ 1.25 billion, recording an increase of 25.70%
over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(ii)MAN-MADE TEXTILES
During 2004 -2005, man-made Textiles exports were US$ 2.05 billion, recording a growth of
12.6% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the man-made
Textile exports have amounted to US$ 2.00 billion, recording a decline of 2.47% over the exports
during the corresponding period of 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Man-
made Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.52 billion, recording an increase of 13.15% over
the exports during the corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(iii)SILK TEXTILES
During 2004-2005, Silk Textiles exports were US$ 0.59 billion, recording a growth of 9.0% as
compared to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the silk exports have
amounted to US$ 0.69 billion, recording an increase of 16.37% over the exports during the
corresponding period of 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Silk Textiles exports
have amounted to US$ 0.165 billion, recording an increase of 4.23% over the exports during the
corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(iv) WOOLEN TEXTILES

During 2004-2005, woolen Textiles exports were US$ 0.42 billion, recording a growth of 23.4% as
compared to the corresponding period of 2003- 04. During the period of April-March, 2005-2006
the woolen Textile exports have amounted to US$ 0.47 billion, recording an increase 13.63% over
the exports during the corresponding period of 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007
the Woolen Textiles exports have amounted to US$ 0.114 billion, recording an increase of 11.96%
over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(v)READYMADE GARMENTS
Readymade Garments account for approximately 45% of the country’s total textiles exports.
During the year 2004-2005, Readymade Garment exports were US$ 6 billion, recording an
increase of 4.1% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the
Readymade Garment exports have amounted to US$ 7.75 billion, recording an increase of 28.69
% over the exports during 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Readymade
Garment exports have amounted to US$ 2.17 billion, recording an increase of 15.70% over the
exports during the corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(vi)HANDICRAFTS INCLUDING CARPETS

During 2004 -2005, handicrafts including carpet exports were US$ 1.01 billion, showing a decline
of 6.6% as compared to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the handicrafts
exports have amounted to US$ 1.24 billion, recording an increase of 22.24% over the exports
during 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Handicrafts including Carpets exports
have amounted to US$ 0.301 billion, recording a marginal decline of 1.31% over the exports
during the corresponding period of 2005-2006.

(vii) JUTE
During 2004 -2005, jute exports were US$ 0.276 billion, recording a growth of 14% as compared
to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the Jute exports have amounted to
US$ 0.295 billion, recording an increase of 6.64% over the exports during the corresponding
period of 2004-2005. During the first quarter of 2006-2007 the Jute exports have amounted to US$
0.065 billion, recording a decline of 7.79 % over the exports during the corresponding period of
2005-2006.

(viii)COIR
During 2004 -2005, coir exports were US$ 0.106 billion, recording a growth of 35.7% as compared
to the corresponding period of 2003-04. During 2005-2006 the coir exports have amounted to US$
0.134 billion recording an increase of 27.19% over the exports during 2004-2005. During the first
quarter of 2006-2007 the Coir exports have amounted to US$ 0.032 billion, recording an increase
of 10.03% over the exports during the corresponding period of 2005-2006

INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY- SOME FACTS

 With a market size of Rs. 1,27,000 crore it is the 2nd largest industry in India.
 Contribute about o 14% to the total industrial output of 4% to GDP
 16.63% to the country’s export earnings.
 Provides employment to about 35 million persons i.e. 18% of the country’s workforce.
 Exports estimated to account for 34% of production.
 Rated as 2nd largest producers of cotton yarn, silk and cellulose fibre/yarn.
 Largest producer of jute.
 3rd largest producer of raw cotton.
 4th largest producer of synthetic fibre/yarn.
 Second largest employment generator after agriculture.
 Second largest spindle age in the world Source: Theme Paper, CII, TEXCON- ‘05

Reference:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/281104248_Environmental_Analysis_of_Textile_Value_
Chain_An_Overview