RAW MATERIAL- MIT VGS Pune

TEXTILES (FIBRE)
WHAT IS FIBRE?
Fiber or fibre is a natural or man-made substance that is significantly longer than it is
wide. Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials.
YOUR TAKEAWAY FROM THIS
DISCUSSION

HOW DO YOU SELECT

THE TEXTILE, BASED
ON THE PURPOSE?
IMPORTANT CONCEPTS TO
UNDERSTAND
STATIC ELECTRICITY
DRAPE
RESILIENCE
STIFFNESS
TENSILE STRENGTH
ELONGATION AT BREAK
TENACITY
MILDEW
MOLD
 STATIC ELECTRICITY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF3-mwLq6Q8
https://www.livescience.com/51656-static-electricity.ht
ml
One common cause of static charge buildup
is contact between solid materials.
According to the University of Hawaii,
“When two objects are rubbed together to
create static electricity, one object gives up
electrons and becomes more positively
charged while the other material collects
electrons and becomes more negatively
charged.”
One common example of this would be
shuffling your feet across carpet,
particularly in low humidity which makes
the air less conductive and increases the
effect.
DRAPE
Although drape is a subjective
quality as it pertains to
appearance, attempts have been
made to objectively define and
measure drape in fabric form.
Drape is the ability of a fabric to
fall under its own weight into
wavy folds of different nature.
Fabric drape can be evaluated
objectively as well as
subjectively.
RESILIENCE
Resilience is the primary property of
fabrics.
Example: The extent to which the suit
keeps its shape and drape, the absence
of bulges at the knees and elbows and
the disappearance of wrinkles which
are formed during daily use after
hanging overnight will characterize
the fabric as to the extent of
its resilience.
STIFFNESS
Stiffness is the extent to which an object resists
deformation in response to an applied force.
The complementary concept is flexibility or
pliability: the more flexible an object is, the
less stiff it is.
Measured by: Young’s Modulus
In the International System of Units, stiffness is
typically measured in MPa = newtons per mm^2.
In Imperial units, stiffness is typically measured
in pounds(lbs) per inch^2.
TENSILE STRENGTH
Tensile strength is measured by the maximum stress that a
material can withstand while being stretched or pulled before
breaking.

Tensile strength is measured in units of force per unit area.

The unit is:
onewton per square meter (N/m^2)
okilogram (force) per square centimeter (kg/cm^2)
opounds per square inch (psi).
oMPa [(Mega Pascal)=N/mm^2]

The ultimate tensile strength (UTS) of a material is the force per unit
area at which it breaks in two.
ELONGATION AT BREAK
Elongation at Break, also known as fracture strain or
tensile elongation at break, is the ratio between increased
length and initial length after breakage of the tested specimen
at a controlled temperature.

Elongation at Break is measured in % (% of

elongation vs. initial size when break occurs).
 TENACITY
In fibre or textile applications, tenacity is the usual measure of specific strength.
Specific Strength is the maximum length of a vertical column of the material
(assuming a fixed cross-section) that could suspend its own weight when
supported only at the top.
For this measurement, the definition of weight is the force of gravity at the
Earth's surface (standard gravity, 9.80665 m/s2) applying to the entire length of
the material, not diminishing with height.
This usage is more common with certain specialty fibre or textile applications.

Unit of Tenacity: Gm/denier

(Denier = Weight in gms per “defined" metres of fibre)

https://www.fictiv.com/hwg/design/engineering-fundamentals-refresh-strength-vs-stiffness-vs-hardness
 MILDEW VS MOLD
Textiles made from natural fibers are hygroscopic—they absorb water or moisture very quickly and desorb it
(dry out) very slowly.
High humidity, warm temperatures, and poor ventilation encourage mildew and mold growth. Microscopic
spores of fungi and bacteria are always present in the air. (There are testkits to determine mildew and mold.)

Mildew is a surface fungi that can easily be identified as a patch of grey or

even white fungus that is lying on the surface of a moist area. Mildew is
easily treated with a store bought cleaner and a scrubbing brush.

Mold, on the other hand, can be black or green and is often the result of a
much larger infestation.
 WHAT IS TEXTILE FIBRE?
Textile fibres are generally classified as natural textile fibres and man-made fibres.
General Properties to check
for each category of Natural
Fibre:
• FLAMMABLE
• EASY TO DYE
• POOR RESILIENCE
• STABLE DIMENSION
• ELECTRICAL
CONDUCTOR
• HYDROPHILLIC

https://sewguide.com/textile-fibers/
NATURAL FIBRE – ANIMAL
FIBRE- WOOL
Formed from: overlapping scales of keratin
Wool thickness (diameter) matters:
5 micrometre- scratchy feelings to skin
10 micrometre and more - fine fibres
Properties: Sheep- China, Australia, India
Alpaca goat
Flame resistant South America
Low Tensile Strength and low stiffness
Highest elongation
Absorb dyes
Angora goat
Good Draping qualities Turkey, Argentina, USA,
South Africa, New Cashmere goat
Water Absorption quality Zealand, Australia China, Kashmir region in India
 NATURAL FIBRE – ANIMAL
FIBRE - SILK
Formed from: Cocoon of Silk worm
Silk Length:
Over 1 km
Properties:
Strongest Natural Fibre
Excellent Drape
Resist Mildew but can be attacked by
Moths
Non-Inflammable
Moisture resistant
Conductor of static charge

How silk is obtained from Silkworm

 NATURAL FIBRE – PLANT
FIBRE - COTTON
Formed from: COTTON PLANT
Cotton is sustainable, renewable, and
biodegradable, making it an excellent
choice as an environmentally-
Cotton Length: friendly fiber throughout its entire
product life cycle.
Over 12mm to 60mm
Cotton fiber grows in the seed pod or boll of the cotton plant.
Properties: Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is flat twisted and ribbon-
like with a wide inner hollow (lumen). 90% cellulose, 6% moisture
Good Drape and the remainder fats and impurities.
Resist Shrinkage:
Mercerised Cotton (Cotton+Caustic
Soda) + Stretching = Appearance
Strong when absorbs humidity
 NATURAL FIBRE – PLANT
FIBRE
Formed from: FLAX
- LINEN
PLANT
Linen Length:
Over 300mm to 500mm
Properties:
Strong, Lustrous
Good Absorbency
Stiffest Natural Fibre
Poor Drape
Low resilience
 MAN MADE FIBRE – VISCOSE
RAYON
Formed from: CELLULOSE Cellulose is the substance that makes up most of a plant's
cell walls. Since it is made by all plants, it is probably the
(Natural Source: Bamboo Pulp) most abundant organic compound on Earth.
VR Length:
Over 300mm to 500mm
Properties:
Excellent Strength
High Lustre (unless pigments)
Customized elasticity
Good Drape
Weakened with moisture
 Mildew prone
Low dimensional stability
Low Abrasion resistance
Prone to Flammability
MATERIALS FOR EACH…
THINK…
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
Formed from:
https://textilestudycenter.com/drawing-of-synthetic-fibres/

Industrial Chemical Process;

Source is Polymer
Properties:
Resist mildew
Difficult to dye
Good resilience
Thermoplasticity
Dimensionally unstable
 Low Absorbency

Most synthetic fibres are thermoplastics. They will soften and contract when exposed to heat.
Thus embossing can be done with production of permanent pleats.
NYLON A polyamide is a macromolecule with repeating units linked by amide
bonds. Polyamides occur both naturally and artificially. Examples of naturally
occurring polyamides are proteins, such as wool and silk.

Formed from: Uniform circular shape, high natural lustre(controllable).

Industrial Chemical Process;
Source is Polyamide
Properties:
High strength
High elasticity
Controllable Drape based on
the diameter
 Low Absorbency
Low melting temperature,
so can melt and cling to the
body
A tourist is visiting Jaisalmer in May 2021 and will carry a backpack. Some
Non Combustible combustible materials for Bonfire needs to be carried bythe person
Will a nylon backpack be suitable for the tourist for this purpose?
POLYESTER Thermoplastic; Polyethylene
Terephthalate(PET).

Formed from:
Industrial Chemical Process;
Source is Polyamide
Properties:
Smooth
Translucent
Uniform circular shape
 High Dimensional stability
Strength can be moderated
Elasticity more than cotton
or rayon
Poor Drape
Slow Burning
 BLENDING
Twisting together of natural and synthetic fibres to form a yarn

Reduced cost – as it is a mix of natural and

synthetic

Improved processing – controlled

Absorbs heat

Wrinkle resistance

Dye phillic

Dimensional stability is improved

KNITTING – LOOPS
INSTEAD OF LOCKS
WARP VS WEFT
WEAVING – “LOOM” IS THE
MACHINE NAME
LACE-MAKING
FELTING
Felting is a simple process of separating,
tangling, and relocking animal fibers found in
items such as yarn or wool. Felting begins
through the agitation of the animal fibers; these
fibers are lined with tiny scales which interlock
and keep the fibers' shape.

Felting, consolidation of certain fibrous materials

by the application of heat, moisture, and
mechanical action, causing the interlocking, or
matting, of fibres possessing felting properties.
MORE LINKS TO REFER:
http://www.mechanicalengineeringsite.com/13-mechanical-properties-material-must-know/
https://www.textileschool.com/127/textile-fiber-formulas/