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According to old concept textile means “to weave” but according to modern concept textile
means everything that means weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, spinning etc.
Fiber:
Fiber is a soft, flexible material that length will be thousands time higher than its diameter.
Generally fibers are used as a raw material of yarn. Sometimes fabric is directly produced from
fiber.
For example: Cotton, Jute, Silk, Wool, Polyester, Nylon, and Acrylic.
To be a textile fiber the fiber should have some features such as:
1. Certain length
2. Certain strength
3. Certain fineness
4. Crimp
1. Natural fiber
2. Manmade/Synthetic fiber
Natural fiber:
6. Mineral fiber(asbestose)
1. Polyester fiber
2. Polyamide fiber(nylon)
3. Acrylic fiber
4. Spandex fiber
What is spinning?
Spinning is a process by which plant, animal or synthetic fibers are twisted together to form
yarn.
Staple length (12-33mm): Including medium strength & medium luster cotton.
Cotton fiber strength greatly affected by moisture. Wet strength of cotton is 20% which is
higher than dry strength of cotton. So more wet more strength of cotton.
Cellulose: 96%
Pectin: 1.2%
Moisture: 8.5%
Wax/gum: 1.3%
Primary wall: Primary wall is an outer protective layer & it contains wax, protein,
pectin as well as cellulose.
Secondary wall: Secondary wall is almost full of pure cellulose at least 94%.
Lumen: Lumen is a liquid and gummy substance. A mature cotton fiber has some little
lumen at the center.
Wool fiber: Wool is a protein fiber which collects from sheep, camel etc. Wool has natural
crimp & heat resistance properties. Shoulder provides the best wool.
Elasticity: Good
Moisture regain: It has a regain of 16%.
Spandex/Lycra: Spandex is a stretchy synthetic fiber or fabric known for its exceptional
elasticity because it can be stretched 4-5 times from its original length and also it can come
back to its original length after being released tension. It is strong, but less durable. This is
made from polyurethane polymer. Used especially for close-fitting sports clothing.Lycra its
brand name.
Acrylic fiber: Acrylic is a synthetic fiber which fiber forming substance is very long chain poly-
acrylonitrile polymer which consists of 85% acrylonitrile monomer and 15% co-polymer. Mainly
used into knit jersey, carpets, sweater etc.
Poly means “many” ester means “organic salt”. That means polyester means “many organic
salt”. It is usually composed of polyethylene terephthalate polymers (PET). Its trade name is
Dacron, Tetoron etc.
Effect of bleaches: Not required bleaching if required so that is done by using sodium
chlorite.
Dye ability: It is very difficult to penetrate dye molecules into the extreme crystalline
polymer. Disperse dyes are used to dye polyester fibers.
Flammability: Burn slowly.
What is viscose: Viscose is a regenerated cellulosic filament fiber. Its solution is thick like
honey.
What is regenerated fiber: The fiber which we get by regeneration from its main origin?
Viscose can be dissolve by (35-60)% formic acid, Residue like soft ash, smell like paper or wood
burn.
Nylon is a thermoplastic & first manmade organic textile fiber. Its forming substance is very
long chain polyamide.
What is cellulose?
It is a gummy substance which is present in cellulosic fiber like cotton, jute, flax etc. Here are
two types of cellulose such as pectin which is present is cotton and lignin which is present is
jute.
Micronaire value: The average weight of 1 inch length of fiber. It is a measure of fiber fineness
and maturity. An airflow instrument is used to measure to micronaire value. A micronaire of 3
or below is considered high micronaire and mature fiber.
Staple fiber: The fiber which has definite length like cotton.
Filament fiber: The fiber which has indefinite length like polyester.
I. Burn test: Here we will identify the fiber sample by burning which help us to find out
that the fiber or yarn is 100% cotton, wool, polyester and acrylic or not.
II. Solubility test: Here we will identify the fiber sample by chemical treatment by using
different type of chemical which help us to find out that the fiber or yarn is 100%
cotton, wool, polyester and acrylic or not.
Cotton 8.5
Silk 11
Wool 16
Viscose Rayon 13
Nylon6, 6.6 4
Jute 13.75
Yarn count: Count is a numerical value by which we can define that how fine and coarse the
yarn is?
N=
N=
Tex Gm. Km
Unknown count Unit mass/ Unit length Given count Unit mass/ Unit length
Example:
Denier 9 Tex
Unknown count Unit length/ Unit mass Given count Unit length/ Unit mass
Unknown count Unit mass/ Unit length 1/Given count Unit length/ Unit mass
Denier =
Tex =
Spun yarn: After twisting staple fiber which length we will get is called spun length.
Filament yarn: It has indefinite length.
1kg = 1000gm, 1lb = 453.6gm, 1km = 1000m, 1m = 1.0936yds, 1yds = 0.9144m, 16 ounces = 1lb,
1lb = 7000grains, 1 ounce = 437.5 grains, 1 gallon = 4.5 litter, 1kg = 2.204 lb.
Row cotton Blow Room To open the baled fiber into small tuft Lap
Card sliver Breaker Draw frame Straighten the fiber Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver Finisher Draw frame Improve fiber uniformity Drawn sliver
Drawn sliver Simplex Make thinner of drawn sliver & insert Roving
small amount of twist into roving
Roving Ring frame Draft the roving, twisted the drafted Yarn(cone)
strand & winding the yarn
Fiber
Blow room
Carding
Drawing(Draw
frame-1,2)
Rotor spinning
Roving: Roving is a collection of relatively fine fibrous strand used in the final process of
spinning.
Ginning: Ginning is a process for separating the seed from the cotton fiber.
Linters: Row cotton still attached to the seed after ginning is called linters.
Carding:
It’s the heart of spinning process by which individualization of fiber is done also remove dirt,
dust, neps etc.
What is draft?
Draft is a process by which we can reduce the weight per unit length of sliver and make it
suitable for ring spinning system.
Pima USA
Raja CIS
Giza Egypt
Andy Australia
SUV in India
Delta Bangladesh
After combing which yarn we get is called combed yarn. There is no neps, hairiness, fault etc.
High quality yarn.
On the other hand carded is low quality yarn because it contains neps, hairiness etc.
Middle portion of yarn look like the letter of Z is called Z-twist produce by ring spinning
machine. Yarn quality is high.
Middle portion of yarn look like the letter of S is called S-twist produce by rotor spinning
machine. Yarn quality is low.
Weight of 9000 meter yarn is equal to (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) gm.
Weight of 1000 meter yarn is equal to (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) gm.
Weight of (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and 75) hank (840 yards) yarn is equal to 1 pound.
Yarn fault:
Slub
Hairiness
Uneven
Neps
GSM is a measurement of fabric weight. GSM means Gram per Square Meter that means
weight of one square meter fabric in gram. GSM is measured by GSM cutter by following
equation;
Here, diameter constant depends on the diameter of GSM cutter. Its formula is given below;
Diameter constant
Wales per inch: At first we will take a 10 inch fabric. Then unraveling the yarn and divided the
total yarn by 10 inch. So finally we get the wales per inch.
Course per inch: At first we will take a 5 inch fabric. Then unraveling the yarn and divided the
total yarn by 5 inch. So finally we get the course per inch.
What is stitch length? When we will straight a total loop then which length we will get this
length is called stitch length. Its unit is mm.
In 1960 Riaz garments established which export only local garments. But in 1973 it
changed its name to Riaz Garments Ltd. & started to export by selling 10,000 pieces of
shirt to France.
In 1979 Desh garments Ltd. establish which the first joint venture industry in
Bangladesh.
In 1980, Young one (49%) & trexim (51%) equity formed a company named young one
Bangladesh which exported padded & non padded jackets to Sweden.
In 1982 there were only 47 apparel industries.
But 1984-85 there were 587, & 1999 there were 2900 apparel industry in the country.
Now the number of apparel industry in Bangladesh is 6,600.
Average growth rate of garment export is 22%.
Garments: Garments refer to the product which generally wears that means it covers/protect
human-body.
Clothing: Clothing refers to the finish piece of fabric that can be used for the purpose of body or
bed.
Sewing: Sewing is a process by which we can join the fabric by the use of needle and thread. Its
main purpose is to produce seam.
Seam: Seam is a line of joining fabric or a stitch line where fabrics are joined together which is
done by various fabric arrangements.
Stitch types: We have six types of stitch that are given below;
Idea generation
Design / Sketching
Pattern Design
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Spreading
Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Final Inspection
Darts: Darts means to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it can be formed
into 3 dimensional.
Grain line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. It can be length wise
direction or parallel to the warp or wale which determined by the designer.
Drill holes: Drill holes are small holes into the pattern especially in pocket which
indicate the other components should be superimposed.
Notches: Notches are cut into the pattern which indicate a point that the other
garment component to be jointed together.
Marker efficiency is the ratio between the area covered by pattern pieces in the marker & the
total area of the marker paper. It is expressed by %. Marker efficiency may be (80-85) % and its
length may be (400-750) cm.
Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited up to maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch
height of the lay is safe. Which depends on thickness of fabric? Single jersey fabric ply is ( 100-
120), rib & double jersey is (50-60).
What is lining?
It is the outer layer of garments which is used into back moon, water proof jacket etc.
What should be the required time, temperature & pressure for fusing?
Polyester is generally strong, durable, and colorfast because it is made from filament but it has
a problem that is, this thread is not soft so there is a change to tear the fabric. On the other
hand cotton thread is soft but not so strong if we compare with polyester because it is made
from spun yarn.
Merchandising:
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser who handles the foreign
buyers and acts as a seller.
Finally we can say that merchandisers are the bridge between industry and the buyers.
Receive enquiry sheet (Where indicate target price, measurement, what type of goods he/she
wants etc.)
Sample develop
Consumption of material
Order sheet receive (Where all information should be include such as color, size, carton,
measurement, amount of garments etc.)
Open back to back L/C (Booking fabric and accessories with the help of master L/C maximum
70%)
Sample approving
Swatch card making and approval (Where we will attach all garments sample so that every
sector can use same goods)
Pre-production meeting (PPM) [Where 4 person should be present PM, merchandiser, buyer,
Quality person]
Line inspection
Ex-work
Shipment
Good command in ‘’English’’ because you have to negotiate with foreign buyer.
Adequate knowledge on technical term such as SOP, GSP, PPM, PSI, CM, CMT etc. for
accurate and efficient communication with buyer.
Good knowledge on fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, embroidery, dyes and
chemicals, color fastness, accessories, garments production etc.
Good knowledge on garments inspection system.
Must be known about computer literacy-mail, and internet.
Right consumption and costing knowledge.
Order getting ability.
Consumption: Quantity of raw materials for making complete garments such as amount of
fabric, sewing thread, button, label, and other accessories.
a) Direct cost: Direct costs are the costs that are directly involve to the production of a
specific goods.
b) Indirect cost: Indirect costs are the costs that are not directly involve to the production
of a specific goods. Indirect costs are (15-20) %.
Example: Labor transport cost, electricity cost, security, building rent etc.
‘’Ticket’’ number = x3
AQL
AQL: Maximum percentage of defect that can be accepted on a particular sample size.
Test
Chemical test (All color fastness & shrinkage test) Visual test
Garments defects:
Three types of defects aree present in garments. That are given below;
1. Critical defects: The defects which is unsafe, hazardous for the end user is called critical
defects. Example: Needle break, azo group etc.
2. Major defects: The defects which reduce the functionality,usability, marketability of the
garments. Example: Any stitching problem, button problem etc.
3. Minor defects: The defects which are not affected the garments but it can damage
product quality. Example: Joining of label problem,spot etc.
Sample: Sample is a reference garments which is done by designer. If required any correction
such as style, design, measurement, size sample are made. We have at least 11 sample.
Washing: Washing is a chemical process by which we can remove the impurities like dirt, dust,
spot, soil mark etc. from garments. Those are attached during manufacturing garments such as
during cutting we can see lot of dust on the other hand during sewing we can see oil spot on
the garments.
Batch
selection
(70, 80,
and 90) kg
Loding into
machine
Softening
Hydro
extraction
Drying
Quality
checking
Send to
garments
finishing
Drying machine
Pin attached
Washing faults:
1) Back staining mainly occurs during stone and enzyme wash.
2) Uneven washing due to pH control especially during enzyme wash. Standard pH for
washing is (4-7.5).
3) Fabric damage due to more blowing angle, over blasting during sand blasting, P.P spray
and over grinding. Blowing angle should be (10-20) .
4) Crease mark can tales place due to more machine RPM. Standard RPM for washing
machine is (28-32).
5) Color shade variation for improper use of washing chemical.
Pumic stone: Pumic stone collect from the volcanic action which is given during washing ½ of
fabric weight.
SMV: Standard Minute Value. It is a standard time for completing a process by using best
possible method. Pre-determined calculated time.
SAM: Standard Allowed Minute. SAM is SMV + Allowance. Actual calculated time.
For inspection 4.0 point system is best because we allow here fewer faults.
Warping
Looming
Weaving
Woven fabric: Plain fabric (Shirt, Muslin cloth), Twill fabric (Jeans 2/2, Gabardine 2/10), Satin
fabric (Ribbon, Curtains, and Gowns), Braid fabric (Matt, Lace Ropes).
Knitting process:
Feeding the yarn into m/c by positive feeder, tension device, yarn guide etc.
Inspection
Knitted fabric:
Weft knit: Single jersey fabric/plain knitting (T-shirt, Hosiery), Double jersey fabric/Rib (Collar,
Cuff, Socks), Interlock (Sportswear, Trouser, Underwear).
Heating
Non-woven fabric: All types of bags, Baby diapers, Bandage, Caps, Carpets, Shoe covers, Draw
strings. Tapes, Table cloths etc.
Woven fabric is made of two set of yarn as a result its structure is compact so no possibility of
shrinkage.
Knit fabric is made of one set of yarn as a result its structure is imbalance, so there is possibility
to shrinkage.
Application of Dyes
N.B
Reactive dye is suitable for cellulosic fibers and produce permanent color by covalent
bond between dye and fiber.
Reactive dyes have good fastness properties.
That’s why reactive dyes are most commonly used for dyeing cotton fiber.
Why it is anionic dye? It is anionic dye because in reaction the anionic part is take place.
Direct dyes have direct affinity towards cellulosic fiber (cotton, viscose) & it can be applied
directly in fiber without help of any assistant.
These dyes are capable of dyeing without help of any other chemical.
After treatment is a process which is applied for increasing for fastness properties of dyed
material after dyeing.
The dye is named from the container vat that’s why it is called vat dye.
You know that vat dye is water insoluble so how can we soluble it?
We can make the soluble of vat dyes by applying strong reducing agent (Hydrose) by vating
process.
Most of the denim industries of our country use vat dye because of rubbing fastness properties.
By acid dye we can dye protein fiber like wool, silk etc. because it has direct affinity towards
protein fiber.
By basic dye we can dye bast fiber like jute, acrylic fiber because it has direct affinity
towards this fiber.
Hydrolysis of dye: Hydrolysis is the main problem in dyeing with reactive dye. The reaction of
dye with water is called hydrolysis. It is happen when the dye solution kept for long time.
Remedies of deficiency: Wash the fabric with soap and soda ash at right temperature.
Bronziness and tendering: Bronziness and tendering is the main problem when dyeing with
sulfur dye. It can be happen when the material are kept for long time into dye bath. It also can
be due to excessive heat, dyestuff and presence of ion as an impurity.
Technical deficiency/fault of disperse dye: Levelness dyeing is the main problems when dyeing
with disperse dye.
Curing' prints means making them permanent, so that the fabric cannot be washed. The main
objective of curing is to increase the color fastness.
We know that cotton fiber swells in strong caustic soda solution, which change its cross section
from kidney shape to almost circular shaped. As a result lumen becomes smaller and cell wall
becomes greater for this reason strength of cotton fiber increased also fabric surface become
fine and light reflectance on fabric is consistently that’s why luster increased.
Printing: Printing is a process by which we can produce color on the fabric surface at some
specific place according to its design. Printing is applicable only for fabric where single or multi-
color can be used only one side of fabric.
Stripping: Stripping is a process by which we can remove color from fabric surface by sodium
hydrosulphite.
Objectives of singeing
Objectives of bio-polishing
De-sizing: De-sizing is the first process of finishing that means to remove the sizing materials
from the warp yarn as well as woven fabric.
Objectives of de-sizing
Enzymatic de-sizing: It is an enzymatic process where amylase enzyme is used to remove the
size material from yarn as well as fabric by enzymatic action.
Singeing
De-sizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Finishing
Final inspection