OSN ACADEMY PVT.

LTD
www.osnacademy.com
LUCKNOW
0522-4006074
SUBJECT – HOME SCIENCE
SUBJECT CODE – 12
UNIT - III

9935 058 417

0522-4006074
 CONTENT
SL.NO. CHAPTERS

1. Textile Terminologies
2. Processing and manufacture of all natural and man-
made fibers
3. Different Methods Fabric construction
4. Textile Finishes
5. Dying and printing classification
6. Traditional Textiles of India
7. Textile, Testing and Quality Control
8. Textile and environment
9. Recent developments in textiles and apparels
10. Research Methods

[2]
 CHAPTER - 1
TEXTILE TERMINOLOGIES

A 'fibre' is defined as any product capable of being woven or otherwise made into
fabric. It is the smallest visible unit of textile product. It can be defined as a hair like strand
that is very small in diameter as compared to its length. They are 'pliable' in nature. They can
be called the fundamental unit used in making of textile yarns and later on its fabric.
A 'yarn' is a strand of fibres laid or twisted together by a process called spinning. The
yarns can be differentiated into types according to the methods of spinning –
a) Mechanical spinning for staple fibre yarns.
b) Chemical spinning for filament fibre yarns.
Simple yarns and complex or novelty yarns are the two large group of yarns. A simple
yarn is alike in all its parts. A single yarn is a strand of fibres all twisted in the same direction.
A two ply yarn is formed by twisting two or more single yarns together usually with a
twist opposite that is used in singles. A two ply yarn is stronger than a single yarn.

• Mixture fabrics – They are made up of two or more different kinds of yarns, each of
which is composed of only one kind of fibre. The yarns may be composed of filament or
staple length fibres.
• Blended fabrics – In this the yarns have two or more different kinds of fibres involved
that are spun together. Staple length fibres are used to make such yarns.
• Combination fibre fabrics – An intimate blend of fibres is involved in this. Each yarn
is made from a single species of fibre and the combination is developed by using some
yarns of one fibre and some of another.
• Engineered yarn / fibre blends – These are those that combine two or more textile
fibres where different fibre types can be blended in single yarns, yarns of different fibre
content can be woven or knitted into fabric, single yarns of different fibres can be plied
together and then formed into fabrics.
• Thread – It is a tightly twisted ply yarn having a circular cross section and used in
commercial and home sewing machines and for hard sewing. Thread is usually wound
on spools with thread size or degree of fineness indicated on the spool end.

[3]
• Thread joins pieces of fabric together to create textile products. It is a plied
construction fine, even and strong. Thread qualities are high strength, adequate
elasticity smooth surface, dimensional stability, resistance to snarling, resistance to
damage by friction and attractive appearance. Various types of thread are simple ply
threads, cord threads, monofilament threads of manmade fibres and multifilament
threads.
• A yarn is a continuous thread or often a plied strand composed of either natural or
man-made fibers or filaments and used in weaving and knitting to form cloth.
• Weft and Warp are the two sets of threads that are woven together to produce fabric.
The weft refers to the threads that run horizontally on the loom and get woven in front
of and behind the warp. The warp refers to the threads that are strung vertically on the
loom.

• Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or

threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabricor cloth. Other methods
are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads
are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling.

[4]
Classification of textile fibres –
According to their source from which textile fibres are obtained fibres are broadly
classified into

Vegetable fibres – Fibers derived from plants are known as vegetable fibres. Cellulose is
made up of elements like carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. They have certain properties like low
resilience, high density & good conductor of heat. They are highly absorbent and resistant to
high temperature Cotton, flax, jute are examples.

Animal fibres – They are obtained from animals. They are made up of protein molecules.
The basic elements are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. They have high resiliency but
weak when wet because they are bad conductors of heat.

Mineral fibres – They are inorganic materials shaped into fibres and are mainly used in the
fire proof fabrics. They are also resistant to acids and used for industrial purpose.

Man made fibres – Those which are made by man and are not naturally present. They have
high strength, strong when wet, low moisture absorption characteristics.

[5]
General Properties of Fibres-

1) Staple fibres – They are natural or manmade or short length fibres between ¾ of an inch
to 18 inches. Except silk, all other natural fibres are staple fibres.
2) Filaments – Long continuous fibres, strands of indefinite length which can be measured
in yards or meters. Natural silk fibre is 360 – 1200 mts Synthetic can be made into
kilometers.
3) Texture – The tactile sensation or touch experienced is rough for fabrics made out of
staple fibres and smooth for fabrics made out of filaments.
4) Resilience – Resistance to compression varies for different fibres. This is the quality for
wrinkles. Resiliency is high in wool & low in cotton. Also known as loft.
5) Lustre – The property of a fabric to reflect light from its surface. Synthetic silks have
high lustre which is removed during spinning.
6) Static Electricity – Created by the friction of a fabric when it is rubbed against itself or
other objects. It is more during hot and humid conditions.
7) Crimp – The waviness of a fabric is crimp. Wool has crimps. Finer the wool, more will
be the crimps in it. The property of having crimps gives elasticity to the fibre.
8) Elasticity – The ability of a stretched material to return to its normal size.

Based on their length, fibres can be classified into-

1. Filaments – long fibres
2. Monofilament yarn – Manmade fibre composed of a single filament extruded to the
diameter desired for the yarn. These yarns are stiff.
3. Staple – short fibres cut to length.
4. Tow – Staple fibres cut from filaments & extruded in large numbers.
5. Bicomponent fibres – It is made of 2 variants or modifications of the same generic fibre
type.
6. Biconstituent fibres – Composed of two different generic fibre types.

Other properties / Secondary properties –

1. Physical shape – Fibre length, surface contour & irregularities cross – sectional
shape, actual length & width dimensions are factors involved.
2. Density – It is the relative weight of a fibre as compared with water or mass per unit
volume. Specific gravity is the relative weight per unit volume. Nylon & Acrylic have
low density & light in weight while cotton and rayon have high density.
3. Colour – Cotton may be creamy, off white, black. Manmade fibres are pure white.
4. Moisture regain – Moisture regain is the certain amount of water present as an
integral part of the fibre & is expressed as the percentage of the weight of the
moisture free fibre.

[6]
5. Moisture absorption – It is the moisture absorbed at saturation point. The better the
moisture absorption, more is the absorption of dyes and finishes. Rayon has low wet
strength but cotton has high wet strength.
6. Elastic recovery & elongation – Elongation is the amount of stretch that a fibre
accepts. Breaking elongation is the amount of stretch a fibre undergoes to the point
where it breaks. Elastic recovery indicates the percentage of return from elongation to
the original length.
7. Flammability & other thermal reactions – When fibre has good moisture
absorbency, it will be a poor conductor of electricity eg cotton. Synthetic fibres shrink
& melt. Cellulosic fibres keep burning & falling.
8. Strength – It is the resistance ability to stress & strain. It is expressed as tensile
strength & measured in (PSI) pounds per square inch or tenacity is measured in gms /
denier cotton gains strength when wet silk, wool loses strength. Dacron & orlon are
unaffected.
9. Abrasion resistance – It is the ability of the fibre to withstand rubbing or abrasion it
gets in daily use.
10. Cohesiveness – The ability of fibres to cling together. This is important in staple
fibres only.
11. Loft – The term used in relation to compressional resiliency.
12. Wicking or Wetting – This refers to the conduction of moisture along the fibre or
through the fabric. The property is related to surface wetting & is not the same as
absorbency.
13. Plasticity – The property of a fibre which enables the user to shape it semi –
permanently or permanently by moisture, heat and pressure.
14. Resistance to moths, mildew & silverfish – This is due to chemical composition of a
fibre. These properties are important to the consumer because they indicate the type of
care needed during storage.

[7]
 Difference between Vegetable and synthetic fibres –
S.No. Cellulosic fibres Synthetic fibres
1. Low resiliency – Fabric wrinkles unless any High resiliency – Less wrinkles after
finishing is given. washing & wearing.
2. High water absorbency comfortable for Low moisture absorption easily washable
summer wears, good for towels and easy spot removal.
handkerchiefs & diapers.
3. Good conductors of heat Good conductors of heat but they melt with
hot ironic touch with hot objects.
4. Identification – Cellulose fibres ignite Identification – Readily burns & melts
quickly, burns freely with smoke and have giving a distinct plastic burning odour.
an afterglow & after burning forms and a
grey feathery ash.
5. Cellulosic fibres have high affinity for dyes. Synthetic fibres have low affinity for dyes.
6. Cellulosic fibres are resistant to moth but Highly resistant to moths, mildews and
less susceptible to mildew hence damp insects.
clothes should not be stored.
7. Cellulosic fibre need ironing at low Synthetic fibres are adjusted with high heat
temperatures. settings. Hence it is good for embossed
designing & easy for plant setting.
8. Susceptible to strong mineral & organic acid Synthetic fibres get readily damaged due to
stain. acids eg Nylon.

[8]
 Identification and Properties of Fibres
Type of Fibre Microscopic Physical prop. Thermal prop. Chemical prop. Biological Use of prop. Care &
view prop. maintenance
Cellulosic: Natural cotton Ribbon like Stronger when wet, Burns readily & Resistant to Silverfish Home Easy to launder.
Resiliency, elastic gives smell of alkalies, strong damages furnish hing Accept finises
recovery & elongation burning paper acids destroy them, clothes easily & retain
low. Fabrics wrinkle & sunlight lessens the them
absorb moisture easily. strength & turns it
to yellow colour
easily.
Flax / Linen Stations High natural luster, - -do- Resistant to Curtain & Doesn’t require
strong fiber, stiff, low mildew, drapery bleaching
elasticity, elong-ation and household fabrics, table
resiliency; wrinkle badly pests & coverings,
insects towels.
Cellulosic - manmade
Rayon -do- Strength lessens when After glow will Strong alkalies Silverfish, Apparel & -
wet, elongation is high, be there, the lessen the strength, mildew & home
good moisture flame Resistance to bacteria furnishing
absorbancy, accept dyes extinguishes drycleaning damage fabrics
well. solvents & strain
removal agents,
deteriorate from
extended exposure
to sunlight.
Cellulosic – modified
Acetate & Triacetate -do- Low strength, drape well, Fibres melt & Acid Mildew & weaken bacteria Dry cleaned -
resistant burn evenly to the discolour fiber, acetone the /laundered &
stretch or phenol & fibers chloroform will ironed
Shrinkage. destroy the fibers, e.g., nailpolish Silverfish
remover, paint remover etc. damages.
Develop static energy when dy.

[9]
 Type of Fibre Microscopic Physical prop. Thermal prop. Chemical prop. Biological Use of prop. Care &
view prop. maintenance
Natural protein
Wool Scale like Some wool fibres are stiff Burns slowly Susceptible to Resistance Woolen Should not hand
& coarse called kemp. with a slight tant alkalies, Resistant to bacteria Shawls, wring, use gentle
Varies in degree of luster. sputtering to mild acids, and mildew, Sweaters, wash, natural or
Wool is weak. solvents. Chlorine susceptible etc. mild soap should
Elongaation, Elastic bleaches damage & to clothes be used. Use
recovery & resiliency is so is sun light. moth and hydrogen proxide
very good. Absorb carpet or perborate
moisture to a high degree, beetle bleaches.
tend to shrink.
Silk Rod Loses strength when wet, Gives a smell like Damaged by Resistance Lingeri Drycleaning rest
medium resiliency, strong burning hair or alkalies like caustic to mildew dress, same as above.
fiber, moisture regain feathers. (CaOH) soda, moth, blouse,
high, resistance to stretch/ mineral acids, & bacteria shirts
Shrinkage. chlorine, bleaches fungi Carpet fabrics,
and sunlight. Poor beetles eat sportswear,
conductor of it. suits etc.
electricity, low heat
conductivity hence
warm

[10]