iding Bevel Gauge Sharpening Brad Point Bits

I Band Saw Fknce System .Abrasive Pads for F'mshing


lawless Fit. Getting pieces to fit
together perfectly is one of the ing with two different materials -
most satisfying parts of being a brass and wood. This means that typical
~ c 6 R a n
woodworker. Like most woodworkers, woodworking techniques don't apply.
-uamw
it doesn't matter if the project is large
or small. If the pieces fit together well, a problem. Whether you use yellow
%d?hJids
o ~ r m r r ~ ~ w e . I'm happy. But getting a perfect fit is glue, white glue, or even epoxy, you
~
-
urwiacvm Oarg Christen
u L ~ IcunSantn2
w n
BVinN&hn
easier said than done.
joints than cutting a bunch of slots. You
also have to consider the spacing be-
tween each slot (the pin). To make box
joints that fit together pe$ectly, the
pins and slots need to "mesh" together
like the teeth on a pair of gears.
To make good box joints you need to
cut the pins and slots with machine-like
precision. And that's the idea hehind
the Box Joint Jig shown on page 6.
B o x JOINTJIG. Like many other box
joint jigs, this one attaches to your mi-
ter gauge and can be used on either a
table saw or router table. And like
other jigs,it has a "key" to position the
workpiece. But what makes this jig
unique is the way the key is designed.
ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM. The key is
designed with a built& adjustment sys-
tem that allows you to do two things.
First, the size (width) of the key can
be adjusted to fit slots from V4" all the
way up to 13A6"(the width of a dado
blade). This means you can cut different
size box joints with only one jig.
Second, you can change the spacing
hetween the slots with the turn of a
knob. This allows you to "dial-in" per-
feet fitting box joints every time.
SLIDING BEVEL GAUGE. Getting
parts to fit together perfectly is also
important when making the Sliding
Bevel Gauge (see page 22).
2 ShopNotes
~. . ' ,
Y
The challenging part is you're work-
For example, gluing brass to wood is
Rivets allow you to do something
screws can't -they can "draw" several
pieces together from both sides and
permanently lock them in place. Basi-
cally, it's just a matter of drilling a hole
and using a piece of brass rod as a rivet.
(For more on this, see page 24.)
BAND SAW FENCE. Another project
in this issue that uses metal is the Rand @
Saw Fence System (shown on page 16).
Adding this system is an inexpensive
and easy way to improve the accuracy
and precision of your band saw.
The heart of the system is the rails.
The rails are made from aluminum an-
gle. It's inexpensive and easy to work
with. And it allowedme to solve a prob-
lem I've runinto when usingother band
saw fences - "drift." (Drift is the ten-
dency of a band saw blade to pull or lead
one way or the other during the a t . )
ADJUSTABLE RAILS.The two-piece
front rail is designed so you can change
the angle of the fence. This way you can
compensate for drift and end up with a
perfectly straight, precise cut.
FENCE ACCESSORIES. To make ac-
curate stopped cuts (like the shoulders
of a tenon), the fence is slotted for an
adjustable stop block. This slot also al-
lows you to attach a tall auxiliary fence.
The extra support this provides makes
No. 8
. /.
 Contents
I
Router Jointer 4
All it takes to get a perfectly straight edge on a work-
piece is a hand-held router and this shop-madejig.
-
Router Jointer Page 4.

Box Joint Jig 6

Thisprecision-madejig produces tight-fitting box joints.
The secret is a micro-adjustment system that lets you
sneak up on the perfect fit.

-
Makind Box Joints
Professional look~ngbox joints are easy to make with
12 a

this ample step-by-step approach.

Sharpening Brad Point Bits 14

A file and a few basrc techniques are all you need to BOXJoint Jig- . .
restore the edge on your brad point bits.

Band Saw Fence System 16

Make perfectly strarght cuts on your band saw wrth thrs
rock-solrd fence It features a bwlt-rn clamprng system, an
adlustment for drrft, and two shop-made accessorres

Sliding Bevel Gauge

Brass and wood combine to produce a fine tool thatk
22 1
both handsome and functronal Plus, some special tech-
nrques for worklng wlth brass and wood

Band Saw Fence page 16

S h Io Solutions
- ~ 28
Seven Shop-Tested Tips: Dust Collector; Assembly Sur-
face, Storing Waterstones,Auxiliary Fence Tip, Keyless
Chuck Update, Drrll Bit Spacer, and a Biade Guard for
Hand Saws.

Abrasive Bds 30
Create a mirror-smooth finish on your projects by using
abrasive pads rn between coats.

Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources for

the projects in this issue. Sliding Bevel Gauge page 22
No. 8 ShopNotes
. -
 apowerjointer. Or you can dothe
job with this simple jig and a
router, see photo.
C~eatinga A JOINTER In some ways, this
stra@ht edge jigis similar to a power jointer -
a revolving mtterhead produces
a ~ k p , i e c ea clean, straight edge. Onapower
moves across the edge.
There are two basic parts to
this router jointer: a platform,
and a sliding carriage.
THE PIATFORM
I started by building the platform.
It's just a plywood base (A), and
two guide rails (B), see F'ig. 1.
BASE.Thelengthofthe base(A)
determines the maximum length
of the workpiece that can be
jointed. In my case, its 48' long.
TOclamp short or narrowstock
to the base, slots are cut in from
the front edge, see Fig. 1.
4 ShopNotes
GUIDERAUS. All that's left to
complete the platform is to add
the guida rails (m, see F'ig, 1.
These rails form a "track" to
guide the carriage.
The thickness of these rails de-
termines the nzaximum thick-
ness of the workpiece. Since I do
most of my work with %"-thick
stoek, I made the guide rails the
same thickness (3/4'3, see Fig. 1.
To make the rails, start by cut-
ting two 1V4"-~deblanks to a
%'-THICK STOCK
rough length of 60". Then, trim
the rails to match the length of
the base (48Ir), see Fig. 1. Note:
Save the cut-offs.
CUT-OFFB. I used the cut-offs
for two things. First, they serve
as temporary spacers to position
the guide rails. Second, one piece
is used later tomake the carriage.
ASSEMBI~.Theimportant step
in assembling the platform is to
get the corred spacing between
the .rails. This ensures that the
No. 8
 Box Joint Jig

A unique micro-adjustment
system lets you '%a1 innperfect
fitting box joints o n your table
saw or router table.

T he thing that impresses me most about this set to cut slots that range in size from a width of
box joint jig isn't the tight-fitting joints you 1/4" to 13!611.A second knob changes the spacing of
can make with it. After all, that's what you expect the pins and slots. This tightens (or loosens) the
from a precision-made jig. What's unique is how joint which allows yon to sneak up on a perfect fit.
quickly and easily it can be adjusted. m ~ . T h eadjustment system works by moving
Unlike most box joint jigs I've used that require two metal brackets, see photo B. The brackets form
*
-
an almost endless amount of "tweaking,"this jig can a "key" that automatically positions the workpiece
he set up in a matter of minutes. The secret is a so each slot is cut a uniform distance apart. This
built-in system that lets yon adjust the jig in ex- creates a series of pins and slots that fit together
tremely small increments. like fingers in a glove.
MICRO-ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM. This system is LOCKING FEATURE. TO prevent the key from
designed to adjust to the desired size and spacing "creeping"once it's adjusted, a pair of plastic knobs
of the pins and slots that make up a box joint, see locks it securely in place, see photo C. The result is
photo A. By simply turning a knob, the jig can be perfect fitting box joints.

A. Micro-Adjustment System. A pair

of knobs adjusts the jig to the desired
size and spacing of the pins and slots.
B. Key. To cut identically spaced pins
and slots, two metal brackets form a
"key" that positions the workpiece.
C. Locking Feature. After adjusting the
box joint jig, it can be locked in place
e
with two plastic knobs.

6 ShopNotes No. 8
..

-
1E x 5Vz 1/4 Masanit8

No. 8 ShopNotes 7
The box joint jig is designed with This two-part rest creates an
a tall fence that supports a work- MATERIAL REST opening that provides clearance
piece when you stand it on end. With the fence complete, the next for an adjustable 'key" that's
This lets you cut slots on the e d step is to add a material rest. It added later. And it lets you slide
of the workpiece by pushing the serves as a "shelf'to raise the end the jig through the blade without
jig through the blade (or bit). of a workpiece above the saw or cutting into the material rest.
FENCE. The fence (A) is just a router table. This way, the work- BLANK.Both parts of the rest
piece of 34"-thick hardwood (ma- piece spans any irregularities in start out as a 3A"-thick blank, see
ple) with the top corners mitered, the tableinsert that cancausethe Fig. 2. After cutting a rabbet on
see Fig. 1. To provide plenty of depth of the slots to vary. one edge to form the shelf, the
support, the fence is 5&" tall TWO PARTS. The material rest two parts are cut to final length.
(wide) and 18"long. consists of two parts. AJeixed rest Then the fixed rest is trimmed
BACKJNG PLATE. After you've (C) is attached permanently to to width and glued to the bottom
cut the fence to size, the next step the jig. And a movable materlal of the fence, see Fig. 1.The mov-
is t o add a replaceable backing rest (D)that slides from side to able rest is used later as aplatform
plate. The plateprevents the wood side, see Fig. 1. for the adjustment system.
fibers around the back of the slot
from chipping out as the blade
passes through the workpiece. SECOND; c~osscvr
So why doesn't the fence alone PIECES TO LENGTH
solve the problem of ehipout? Be-
cause as the jig passes over the THIRD: TRIM FIXED
blade, a slot is cut in the fence as
well as the workpiece. The prob-
lem is once a large slot is cut,
you've removed the support.
That's where the backingplate MATERIAL REST
(B) comes in. It's a piece of V4"
Masonite that fits in a shallow
dado in the fence, see Fig. 1. To
make it easy to replace when it
gets chewed up, the plate is held
in place with a machine screw and
knob (or wing nut), see Fig. la.

8 ShopNotes No. 8
Adjustment System

PLASTIC STAR

NOTEIGLUEBACK
AQJU6TMENT BLOCK FLUSH
WITH BACK AND END OF

After completing the material ATTACH BRACKETS.Now the ter the adjustment system is as-
rest, work can begin on the ad- brackets can he screwed to the sembled, the legs will extend in
justment system. Basically, this ends of the blocks so the bottom front of the fence and form the
system consists of two adjust- 'legs" are flush with the front key that's used to position the
meat blocks and a pair of L- edge of the material rest (D). Af- workpieee, refer to Fig. 3a.
shaped metal brackets, see Fig.
3. The blocks and brackets work
together to form a "key" that ad-
justs to thedesired size and spac-
ing of the slots that make up the
box joint.
A J J J U S S~ m . TOmake
the key adjustable, slots are cut
in theefront (E)and back ad@&-
rnmt blocks (F),see Fig. 4. Then
the back block is glued to the
movable material rest @) that
was made earlier to create an L-
shaped assembly, see Fig. 3.
KEY. When the glue dries, the
next step is to add the adjustable
key, To do this, the L-brackets
are attached to the ends of the
blocks. These brackets are just 4"
mending plates that I picked up FROM TRIMMED
at the local hardware store. (See
page 51 for other sources .)
The only unusual thing is the
brackets need to be modified
slightly to Gt the adjustment
blocks. This requires trimming
the ends and drilling an addi-
tional mounting hole in each
bracket, see Fig. 5.

No. 8
 Locking System
The two adjustment blocks allow
yon to set the size and spacing of FLUSH WITH END OF
MATERIAL REST
the key. To prevent this key from
moving once it's adjusted, I in-
stalled a special locking system.
This system has two separate
'locks" - one for the size of the
key, and one for the spacing be-
tween the key and the blade.
SIZE LOCK TOlock in the size
of the key, the adjustment blocks
are held together with a carriage
bolt and knob, refer to Fig. 3a.
The bolt passes through a hole
drilled in the front block (E) and
through the short slot in the back
block (F), see Figs. 6 and 6a. OND: MARK HOLE
TEMPLATE.TOensure the hole
in the front block aligns with the
slot, I used the back block as a
template,see Fig. 6. With the ends
of the blocks flush, a V4" brad
point bit can be used to mark the
center of the hole at the end of the
slot, see Figs. 6 and 6a.
DRILL HOLE. After locatiig the
centerpoint, drill a shank hole for
the carriage bolt. Then to recess
the head of the bolt, I used a spacingbetween the key and the slide the blocks to the left as far
Forstner bit to drill a counter- blade.Here again, a carriage bolt as possible, and mark the hole at
bore. Now the carriage bolt can is used. But this time it passes the end of the slot, see Fig. 7.
be installed and a washer and through a hole in the f m e and All that's left is to drill a coun-
knob (or wing nut) threaded on. the long slots in both blocks. terbored shank hole in the fence,
SPACING LOCK. The next step To locate this hole, place the see Fig. 7a. Theninstall a carriage
is to provide a way to lock in the assembly under the fence. Then bolt, washer, and knob as before.

-
:Holding a long workpiece (like the
boxjointjig)steadyw h e n ~ g h o l e s
in end grain can be a challenge. So
when Idrilled the holes forthe adjust-
ing rods, I used a simple jig, see photo.
It's just a couple of pieces of wood
d together a t a right angle and a
I
so the upright extends over the edge.
Then, with the work clamped to the A W i e a l &lEing jig holds lo
-upright,
,
loosen the table and swing - NOTE:
~~- '*\
J'sMADE FROM
workm'eces securelw in &xe
:, :&,&rkPiiece
. p.u&g&e & -. . . . ~W-TMICK STOCK :: . > : ~ ~ >7 .
-.~ .
<, !
<.
,
.. .
. .: . i;..,
" -

...
- , ,.~ ~

. .
r..
. ... .... . ...,
.. .
,

. -~.,. . ~,,:~?
~

~ ;:,~-; .<,, ". pi.$23,

No. 8
 'Micro-Adjustment 5y5-tn
The most unique feature
box joint jig is the micro-adjust-
ment system. This system lets
you " h e tune" the key to the de-
sired size andspacing of the slots.
ADJUSTING RODS. The ~ e c r e t
is a pair of adjusting rods. One
rod threads into the end
back block, and the otheri
fence, see Fig. 8. By turn
adjusting rods YOU slide the 10-92 WASHER
blocks from side to side
I which positions the key.
(For more on using the micro-ad-
justment system, see page 12.)
ADJUSTMENTASSEMBLY. TO (a. END PLATE DIMENSION5
make this work, an adjustment
assembly is attached to the front
block (E),see Fig. 8. This assem-
bly consists of a thin wood plate
and several pieces of hardware.
END PLATE. Before installing
the hardware, I made the end
plate (G) from a piece of V4"-thick
hardwood, see Fig. 9a After drill-
0.mg holes for the adjusting rods
and two mounting screws, the
plate can be used as a template to
mark the corresponding boles in holes are drilled, the micro-adjust- adjusting pressure is created by
the end of the jig, see Fig. 9. ment system can be assembled. a "stop" on each side of the plate.
DRILLING JIG. Marking the The 2%"-long adjusting rods The stop on the inside of the
holes is easy. The trick is holding are cut from a piece of threaded plate is a washer and lock nut.
the jig steady to drill the holes. To rod. To accept the rods, threaded Another washer and a knurled
do this, I used a simple drilling inserts are installed in the fence knob that's tightened against a
jig, see box on page 10. Once the (A)and back block(F). The actual nut forms the outside stop.
MIIER 6AU6E
The last step is to attach the jig
to the miter gauge. The idea is to
position the jig so you can cut the
largest possible slot without cut-
ting into the material rest.
This requires mounting your
widest dado blade (or largest bit).
In my case, this was a 13/16" dado
blade, see Fig. 10. Note: Since I
don't like to remove that much
material with arouter,the largest
routerhit Iuseisalh"straight bit.
To complete the jig, check that
the miteigauge is-square to the
blade. Then ~ositionthe fixed rest
against the blade and screw the
gauge to the fence, see Fig. 10a.

ShopNotes
 TECHNIQUE

.~. -1,
~> -- g
- - .
=

Bax Joints
Basically, there are only two re- Using the micro-adjustable box FLUSH PINS.But to solve the
quirements for making box joints. jointjigshownonpage6 solves the second part of the problem (get-
Perfect spacing between the pins first problem - cutting identi- ting the ends of the pins flush
and slots. And getting the ends of cally spaced pins and slots. (For with the sides) there are two
the pins flush with the side of the more on adjusting the box joint things youll need to take into ac-
adjoining piece, see photo above. jig, refer to Steps 2 and 3 below.) count: the le@h of the pins and

Step 1: Raise Blade.

To produce a box joint with the
ends of the pins flush with the
side of the adjoining piece, raise
the blade to match the thickness
of the workpiece.Note: This is the
distance from the material
rest to the top of the blade.

Step 2: Set Width of Key.

Using a slot cut in a test piece,
the key is adjusted to match the
width of the slot To do this,
loosen the locking knobs and
turn the back adjustment knob
until the slot fits snugly ove
key. Then tighten the out
side locking knob.

Step 3: Adjust Spacing.

Now turn the front adjustment
knob to set the spacing between
the slots. After positioning the
key the width of one slot from the
blade, tighten the inside knob.
Then make a test joint arrd read-
just if necessary. Moving
the key closer to the blade
loosens the joint Moving
it away tightens the fit.

.. 2..=i
12 . : . - ShopNotes No. 8
 the thickness of the workpieces.
Ideally, the length of the pins
match- thethielmess of the work-
pieces. So start by checking that
all the pieces are the same thick-
ness. Note: While you're at it,
'thickness''afew test pieces to use
when adjusting the jig.
The next step is to determine
the length of the pins (depth of
cut). To do this, I use a test piece
as a set-up gauge and raise the
blade to match the thickness of the
I
No. 8
piece, refer to Step 1on page 12.
APPEARANCE. While it doesn't
"make or break" the box joint, I
like the look of a full pin (or slot)
on the end of each piece. So after
cuttingeach piece to length, I start
with a board that's maw than
what's needed. Then,aRercomplet-
ing the slots, the extra width is
trimmed to leave afullpin (or slot).
Note: The "waste" also comes
in handy for keeping track of
which edge to position against
ShopNotes
the key, see Steps 4 through 6.
nwAz JOINTS. Once the piecen
are cut to "working" size, it's a
good idea to make a trial joint.
The goal is to slide the pins into
the slots with a "friction"fit. This
may require some readjusting of
the jig to get a perfect fit. But the
end result is worth the effort.
MAKE JOINTS. NOWit's just a
matter of cutting matching slots
on each workpiece, see Steps 4
through 6 below.
Step 4: Cut Slots on End.
With the edge of the workplece
against the key, cut the first slot.
This creates a pin on the end of
the piece. Then position the
workpiece to cut each of the re-
maining slots by straddling the
key with the slot that was cut last.
Step 5: Cut Matching Slots.
To cut matching slots on the op:
posite end, flip the workpiece so
the waste edge is oriented to the
same side. Then, with the work
held firmly against the fence and
the material rest, cut the rest of
the slots using the same proce-
dure as before.
Step 6: Form Mating Pins.
To form pins that match the slots
on the adjoining piece, use the
first piece as a set-up gauge.
Just turn it around so the waste
edge 1s on the opposite side and
the slotthat was cut first fits over
the key. After cutfing thls slot, set
the first plece as~deand com-
plete the box joint.
 Brad Point Bits
A file and a
B rad point bits are designed
specifically to cut clean, ac-
curate holes in wood. Like any
two-steptech- other cutting tool, they work
best when properly sharpened.
nique'ue. Although the '%usinessn end of
a'' it takes to a brad point bit may look a little
shaven a byad complicated, it's easy to sharpen
point bit. once you know how it works.
COMBINATION BIT. Basically,
a brad point bit combines the best
features of three different drill
bits. It's like a hybrid of a spade
bit, a Forstner bit, and a twist bit,
see box below.
POINT. Like a spadebit, there's
a sharp, tapered point for center-
ing the bit on the workpiece. This the lifters act like a pair of revolv- perimeter of the hole.
prevents the bit &om "wander- ing chisels that shear off and lift FLUTES. As the hole is drilled,
ing" off the centerpoint as you out thin wood shavings. spiral flutes in the bit pull up and
start the hole. SPURS. In addition to the lift- eject the chips from the hole like
LIFTERS. After the point en- ers, some brad point bits also have an auger. The basic idea is the
ters the wood, two cutting edges two knife-edged "spurs." To pro- same as a twist bit. Only the
or "lifters" take over. Like the duce a cleaner hole, these spurs flutes are ground at a steeper an-
cutting edges on a Forstner bit, score the wood fibers around the gle so they eject the chips faster.

There's really nothing mysteri-

ous about sharpening a brad point
bit. In fact, you canrestore a sharp
edge in less time than it takes to
drill a hole with a dull bit. All it
takes is a few strokes from a file.
(For more information on select-
ing a file, see box on page 15.)
CLAMF'ING JIG. The first step
is to provide a way to hold the bit
securely in place while you're
sharpening it. To do this, I use a
simple clamping jig. This is just a
scrap block of wood (I used a2x4)
with a shallow V-groove, see mar-
gin tip on page 15.
SHARPEN LIFTERS. Wlth the
bit extending about 1"above the
block, the next step is to sharpen
the lifters (cutting edges). The

.4 ShopNotes No. 8
 a secret is to create a clean, sharp
line along the edge. This requires
filing the angled "flat" on the end
of the bit, see Fig. 1.
II FILING ANGLE.TO determine
the correct filing angle, just rest
I
the face of the file on the flat.
Once you've "found" the angle,
push the file across the flat in a
REST FlLE ON
continuous motion. The trick is to ANGLED T L A P
file the flat without nicking the

~
brad point or the spur. A scrap block of
To keep from rounding over wood with a
the lifter, raise the file off the bit shallow V-groove
T FACE OF FlLE
at the end of each stroke. Then GAINST SPUR FILE INSIDE EDGE OF S P U R holds the bit
find the angle again and repeat securely in
1
I
the filing process until the sur-
face is shiny and flat.
place when
sharpening.
The important thing is not to
get carried away. The idea is to
hone the cutting edge. Not
reshape the hit. I usually keep FlLE SPUR WITH
LIGHT STROKES
track of the number of strokes I

*
make on each lifter. This ensures
that an equal amount of material
is removed off each edge and that
both lifters end up doing the same
amount of work.
SPURS. If you have a brad
point bit withspurs, thenext step
is to "dress" the inside of the
time, tilt the file so the face is
against the inside of the spur.
Now take one or two strokes
until the surface is shiny and
flat. A light touch here keeps
from damaging the lifters that
spursoryou'll reduce the cutting
diameter of the bit.
~ 0 m . A this
t point, you may
be tempted to sharpen the point.
But it's easy to remove more from
one side than the other. Since this

Selecting a File
bet. of d i i n k fies in the way.
--- -
wkenmmdhE~itali4
ekdy suited to spurred bits is an auger dentallynickhg the spur or pint.

mttjng edges with a fl& mill Ble. But teeth on each face while the opposite s e w brad pint bits are
for s p u d bits, a Ele just gets end hss teeth only on the edges,see speed steel. As a ~ s u l t ,

safe"^ h t l e t you ffle eitherthe I ) U O n T ) mEDL$FILE.%

spururtheeuttingedge without dam-
aging the ad&mnt surf~ce.
The only dnrwback is an auger gle
istoo b i g t o s b q x n smdterdiameter
.
tion is a diamond needle file, see
tos above and a& leR. The diimon
abrasive on the file does an e m g e
job of slmqming the hard steel
 Band Saw'
Fence
System
This unique fence system features
a built-in clamping system, adjust-
able rails, and a pair of handy
fence accessories.

H ow many times have you clamped a scrap ACCESSORIES.There's a slot cut in the end of the
piece of wood to the table of yourhand saw as fence to accept two optional accessories. One acces-
a fence? Then spent the next hour fiddling around sory is a simple block that acts as an adjustable stop
with it just to get a straight cut. for repeat cuts, see photo B. The other is a tall
The solution is simple -add a fence system. But auxiliary fence that provides added support when
this is an expensive option for most band saws. So resawing. (For more on this, see page 21.)
@
I decided to build my own, see photo. The fence RAILS.The fence fits into a set of aluminum angle
system is made up of two main parts: a wood fence rails: a two-piece kont rail and a single back rail.
and a set of metal rails. The two-piece front rail allows you to quickly and
FENCE.The fence supports the workpiece and easily adjust the angle of the fence to get a straight
determines the width (or thickness) of the cut. To cut, see photo C. (For more on adjusting the fence,
make sure it stays in place after it's beenpositioned, see page 2 1.)
there's a simple, but effective fence clamp, see In addition to being adjustable, the rails are also
photo A. Once it's clamped in place, the fence is rock designed sa that you can easily lift off the fence
solid -there's no side to side play whatsoever. whenever it isn't being used.

A. Fence Clamp: Built into this fence is 8. Fence Accessories: An adjustable

a two-piece ckmp that pinches the stop block is one of two acckssories
C. Adhtable RaH: The two-oiece front
rail isSdesignedso you can'adjust the
a
front railand locks the fence in position. that fit into a slot in the end of the fence. angle of the fence to get a straight cut.

16 ShopNotes No. 8
CROSS SECTION
 7he Fence

The "dyshaped b
arm of the fence
allows you to s m .If you're planning on holds the arm in place on t h e f i n t
slide it all the adding the fence accessories rail, refer to Fig. la.
way to the left to shownonpage21,nowis the time To make the pinch block (B),
to cut a slot in the arm,see Fig. 2. start by gluing up two pieces of
achieve a maxi-
mum cut. I&WBET.A~SO, to prevent the ;A"-thick stock to make a long il).
pinch block (B) from twisting blank (about 8"). Then rip this
when it's screwed to the arm blank to match the width of the i
later, I cut a !4"-deep rabbet in rabbet (I%"),see Fig. 3a.
the front of the arm to "lock" it in AUP. Next, to create a "lip" so
place, see Figs. 1and 2. the pinch block can ride on the
front rail, a rabbet is cut on the
The heart ofthe band saw system
PINCH BLOCK edge of the blank, see Fig. 3a.
is the fence,see Fig. 1.It consists The next step is to make the After the lip is cut, trim the
of three parts: an arm, a pinch pineh block that fits in the rabbet pinch block to match the width of
block, and a pressure block. you just cut, see Fig. 3. It forms the arm (5")and screw it in place,
the rear "jaw" of the clamp that see Fig. 3.
rn
I started work by making the
arm. It's shaped like the letter
"d"-wide at the front to provide
alarge clampingsurface, and nar-
TOW at the end to clear the throat
of the band saw, see photo abave.
The a m (A) is made by gluing
up two 5"-wide blanks of 3A"-
tbick stock, see Fig. 2. (I used 3
maple.) To determine the length
of these blanks, measure the ?
length (depth) of your band saw
ACGESSORIE6
table and add 5". (In my case,
they're 179A"long.)Aftertheglue
dries, cut the arm to shape and GLUE UP TWO LAYER6
OF %"-THICK STOCK
sand the edges smooth, see Fig. 2.

18 ShopNotes No. 8
~.:..,;.=
I;....*
.*~*a%&L2'm
-.
a PRESSURE BLOCK El-
All that's left is to add the v e s -
sure block (C), refer to Fig. 1.
;zF2;r$ 1 1
Since it's a short piece, I once
again started with an extra-long
blank. Cut this blank to match the
combined height of the pinch
block and arm (23AU),see Fig. 4.
SHALLOW GROOVE. To help
concentrate clamping pressure
on the front rail, a shallow groove
is cut in one face of the pressure
block, see Fig. 4.
After the groove is cut, trim
the block to match the width of
the arm (K"), and chamfer $he out-
side corners, see Fig. 4.
CLAMP. The pressure block is
attached to thk arm with two
woodscrews. Clamping pressure WUUVSCREW
is exerted by a carriage bolt and
a T-knob (or a wing nut). (For
sources of hardware, see page 313
The bolt passes through the
GROOVE
pressure block and pinch block,
refer to Fig. la. When the T-knob
is tightened on the end of thebolt,
PRESSURE
it pinches the guide rail and locks BLOCK
CHAMFER
COFNERS
the fence in place.
TEMPLATE.The tricky part is
getting the screw and bolt holes ASSEMEW. Afcer the holes are NYLONSPACER. To complete
to align in both pieces. drilled, the fence can be assem- the fence, screw a round nylon
To solve this problem, I drilled bled. To do this, drive the car- spacer to the narrow end of the
holes in the pressure blockfirst, riage bolt into the pinch block. ann, see Fig. 6. This spacer will
see Fig. 4. Then I used the pres- Then, screwthepressureblockto ride on the back rail and support
sure block as a template to drill thearm and threadon the T-knob the fence when the a m doesn't
the matching holes, see Fig. 5. (or wing nut), refer to Fig. la. rest directly on the saw table.

CARPET T/
PRE55URE B
USE
I SHANK

END OF SPACER
PACER I 5 COUNTERSUNK
FOR SCREW

.
DRILLING HOLES SUPPORT
SEE FIG. 1s.

No. 8 ShopNotes 19
 With the fence complete, workean drilled in the mounting rail (Dl B A C RAIL.
~ Once the kont rail
begin on the rails: a two-piece front is bolted in place, the only thing

*
for bolts. These bolts thread into
An adjustable two- rail and a back rail, see Fig. 7. the pre-drilled holes in yourtable left is to add the back mil (F),see
piece front rail and ALLMINUMANGLE. three top, see Fig. 7. (Note: If your Fig. 7. It bolts to the rear of the
a single back rail rail pieces are made kom 1%" x band saw doesn't have these table to support the narrow end '
provide support for 1%"aluminurnangle(available at holes, you'll need to drill them.) of the fence, see Fig. 7b.
fhe fence and allow most hardware stores). I used a Theimportant thing is that you AU you need to do is drill two
you to compensate hacksaw to cut the rails from a locate the rail soit's W below the oversized mounting holes and
for "drift." single six foot length of angle top of the table, see Fig. 7. This bolt it to the band saw table.
(each piece is almost 24"long). ensures it won't interfere with CHANIFER CORNERS. Fblly,
FRONT RAIL. The front rail the bar of your miter gauge, see file off the sharpexposed corners
consists of two pieces, see Fig. 7. Figs. 7 and 7a. on the rail pieces, see Fig. 7.
A mounting rail (D)which at-
taches to the table of your band
saw. And an adjustable rail (E)
that pivots so you can adjust your
fence to get a straight cut.
The pivot point is centered on
the length of the rails. A slot on
one end allows you to adjust the
rail and 'lock" it in position.
SPACERBLOCg The tricky part CLAMP TEMPLATE
is drilling the holes in both rail BETWEEN RAILS
BEFORE DRILLING HOLES
pieces so they align. The solution
is to clamp a spacer block be-
tween the rails, see Fig. 8. Then
lay out and drill the holes.
MARE S m . Next, to create
the slot in the adjustable rail (E),
I drilled a series of holes and filed
the slot smooth, see Fig. 8b.
MOUNT RAIL. To mount the
front rail, two oversized holes are

20 ShopNotes No. 8
E%L SlidingBevel Gauge

How do you get a flawless fit between

h s s and wood? All it takes is a swapwood
jig and some simple techniques.

B rass and wood. Two tradi-

tional materials for making
hand tools. And the bevel gauge
shown here is the perfect oppor-
tunity to combine these materials
to make your own fine tool.
AU you need are two small
pieces of wood and a 1"-widebrass
strip. (Brass is available at most
hobby stores, or see page 31.)
The challengingpart is getting
an almost flawless fit between
BOTTOM the brass and wood. To get a fit
TRIM
PLATE like this requires some special
techniques. (For more on this, see
the boxes on following pages.)
TmHllllME
I started work on the bevel gauge
by mak'mg the wood handle, see
e
Drawing at left. Since brass can
stain light colored woods when
it's filed or sanded, I used walnut.
But any dark hardwood will do.
To make the handle (A), first
cut two 3h"-thickblanks to match
the width of your brass strips (1")
and 53A"in length, see Fig. 1.

CUTTWO IDENTICAL
Jh"-THICK BLANKS

RABBETS ARE CUT

TO MATCH THICKNE55
OF B R A 5 5

22 ShopNotes No. 8
 * RABBETS. After these blanks
are cut to size, shallow rabbets
are cut on the ends to accept
brass trim plates, see Fig. 1.
The depth of the rabbets is the
same thickness as the brass strip
(M6").The only differenceistheir
length (height). The rabbets on
the bottom end of each blank are
3A" long. But the rabbets on top
are 1"long.
To cut these rabbets, I at-
" I N S T A N T GLUE
tached an auxiliary fence to the
table saw. Then, to support the
workpiece, I clamped it to a sim- NOE: ALL BRASS PIECES ARE CUT
FROM ONE12"-LONG STRIP
ple jig, see Fig. 2.
TRIM PLATES
Once the rabbets are cut, the
next step is to fit the to;o (B) and
bottom (C) trim plates in the rab- I NOTE:
SQUARE ENDS AFTER EACH CUT

bets, see Fig. 3. AU the brass parts

(includingthe trim plates) are cut Cutting the pieces individually 3. Later, it will be filed flush with
from a single 12"long brass strip. like this ensures that each trim the end of the handle.
The unusual thing is they're plate will fit tight against the GLUE TRIM PLATE. U e r the

a not all cut at once. Instead, the shoulder of the rabbet.

brass strip is first squared at one FITTING THE PLATE. But be-
end. Then a trim plate is marked fore you can cut the plates to
plate is cut to rough length, I use
"instant" glue to temporarily
hold it in the rabbet. Instant glue
out and cut to rough length. Then length, the brass strip needs to be isn't strong enough to hold the
the rough-sawn edge of the strip flattened, see box below. Then, brass strip in place permanently.
is squared up again, and the next one end of the strip is squared Later, it will be attached perma-
plate is cut, see box below. and cut to rough length, see Fig. nently with screws or rivets.

For a brass strip to fit tight in a

rabbet, it has tube flat and square:
FIRST:
FLATTEN ONE I
The problem is they aren't manu-
€acturedthis ms see Detd.
To solve this,I use a simple jig,
see Drawing. It's jusl, a block of
wood with a shallow d i& &ca%h
it for the brass strip.
FLATI'EN FACE. 'b flatten the
brass, glue a piece of 120 grit sili-
con carbide sandpaper in the rab-
bet. Then slide the entiye strip
'back and forth until it's flat.
S Q U EDGE.~ Next, to square
Fitting brass to wood is easy with an end, extend the strip past the
this simple jig. Fust the brass end of the jig and clamp it. Then SECOND:
FILE ONE END SQUARE
strip is flattened. Then, one end using the end ofthe jig as aguide, FILE STRIP FLAT
i s w a r e d Wba sm&,wift @!e.-.slat&endsqw~a$iephoto-
. .

I No. 8 ShopNotes 23
--
 all the trim plates glued in
place, the next step is to attach
the two 1"-longtop p l a t e s p e m -
nently to the handle blanks, see
Fig. 4.
TOPPLATES. Each top trim
plate (B) is screwed to a handle
blank with two #2 x 1A" solid
brass woodserews, see Fig. 4a.
Since I didn't want the slots of
the screw heads to show, I coun-
tersunk the holes slightly so the
slots are just above the brass
strip, see margin tip at left, and
Fig. 4a. Then I filed the heads off
A simple way to flush with the brass strip.
keep a counter- BRASS SCREW. The next step
sink bit from chat- is to drill a hole through the top
tering, is to turn it trim plates and handle blanks,
by hand. see Fig. 4. This hole is for a brass
machine screw (added later) that
will help hold the blade in place.
To make sure the holes in both
handle blanks align, carpet tape
them together and then drill a "pocket" for the nut, I used a dle. The handle blanks are sepa-
V4"dia. hole, see Fig. 4. (Note: Forstner bit to drill a counter- rated at the bottom by a spacer,
Once the hole is drilled, separate bored hole in the inside face of see Fig. 6. The spacer provides
e
the blanks and remove the tape.) one of the blanks, see Fig. 5a. clearance for the blade that's
To lock the machine screw in Then I epoxied the nut in place. added later. And the mitered end
place, it's threaded into a brass SPACm NOWYOU can begin acts as a stop for the mitered end
nut, see Fig. 5. To create a work on the other end of the han- of the blade.

rmEtL,ti~m . f i a t step is
The
to drill countersunk holes the
same diameter as your hrass rod,

AND PEEN TO FILL COUNTERSIh'"C

F%EN RIVETS NOW,to lock the

plates in w e , peen the rivets.
The idea is to "mushroom" the
Rivets made from brass rod ends so they com&t;eSy fill Me
"draw" the handle pieces tight& countersinks, see photo at I&

24 .* .
,
. .-..
,7-

. ..
:-- ShopNotes No. 8
.,
 To make the spaear (D), start
by squaring up the end of the re-
maining length of brass strip.
Then measure over 34'' and cut a
46" miter, see Fig. 6. After the ROUND OVERTOP
spacer is cut to size, file the mi- END OF HANDLE
tered edge smooth.
GLUE UP HANDLE. To ensure
the spacer will glue up tight be-
tween the handle blanks, you'll
need to flatten both faces of the
brass strip (you've already flat-
tened one side).
DRILL COUNTERSUIUA
Once both faces of the spacer HOLES A N D ADD RIVET5
were flat, I glued it between the
blanks and used a simple trick for
alignment, see margin tip. To al~gnthe top
RIVET HANDLE. Now the bot- the handle, insert
tom of the handle can be joined a mach~nescrew
togetherpmnently. What you as a simple index-
have here is basically a "sand- ing pin.
wich" of bmss and wood. Since
screws won't "draw" all the
pieces together, you'll need a dif-
ferent technique.
The solution is simple, I rivet lock the pieces tightly together. 6b and the box below. Note: To
the pieces together, see Fig. 6a SHAPE HANDLE. Now that the prevent the "open" end from k-
and box on page 24. bottom of the handle is riveted ing, insert a thin spacer between
The rivets arejust short pieces together, both ends of the handle the handle blanks.
of a"-dia.brass rod (available at can be shaped. Finally, the bottom trim plates
most hobby stores). The ends of F i s t , a round-over is sanded are filed flush with the bottom of
the rivets are "peened" over to on the top of the handle, see Fig. the handle.

..
%era, at22 .tRrs w e wap %to
~wbkWt%@S a%.&,=@$-
You
TG. US^ % &$&*
b shape bms, &ie @ I O ~ ~
muksWB, but $&kw8&i~,.
.The Q~&W .is
.6a. 4 &e kms. A bb&disa
m& ?.%a& @.
% Bmt it
remove stock too q&&y &@
damage your work.
nammmm I p a to,
m a drumsander in a W r w p
3qeB~mshg.It takm %k&
. .d.&iI;mower, b a + & Wdit...w
- &
Shaping the ends of the hand/@& w'f &sne&.up3.a .Ehp sk@C
easy. You can ~ ~ ~ ~ a s n o o & ~@~W&~o&e&tf.$m-
rnf#
fi/e(as shown],.m&&ums;v7cler gw&hW h W t.Be lrai.
it&.&&@ @me. &&l;btbp@*eb&>

No. 8 ShopNotes 25
 -
After shaping and filing the han- ROUND OVER END
dle, the next step is to make the TO MATCH HANDLE
FILE MITERED END
blade (E) &om the remaining OF BLADE SMOOTH
brass strip, see Fig. 7.
Since the end of this strip is al-
ready mitered (from cutting the
spacer earlier),all you have to do is
file the miter smooth and round
over the other end, see Fig. 7. NmE CUT Va"-WIDE 5 L O l
FITBLADE. For the blade to fit
in the slot of the handle, you'll
need to flatten both faces (just
I USE REMAINING BRASS
STRIP TO MAKE BLADE

like you did for the spacer). NO=: COUNTEKSlNK

sLO~.Afterfitting the blade, a ON NUT SIDE

slot is cut in one end, see Fig. 7. V4"x 1" BRA55 COUNTERSINK HOLE 50
To countersink a (The technique I used is shownin MACHINE SCREW ,SCREW IS FLUSH WITH BRASS
large hole, l insert the box below.) The slot allows
the bit in a drill the blade to slide and pivot to any INSERT BLADE AND
press and turn the angle. A brass machine screw will ADD HARDWARE
chuck by hand. pass through this slot and lock
the blade in place.
COUNTERSIN&With the blade
complete, the last step is to coun-
tersink the hole in the handle to
accept the brass machine screw,
see Fig. 8 and margin tip at left.
FINISH. Finally, to get a satin
finish on the brass and wood, I
use a simple process, see box on
page 27. When it's smooth, add
the blade, screw, and wing nut.

theb&mieat&anMtkbrass,
FIUW.,&ter the hrdes me
drilled, I.usetwDfiles to.eleanout,
Cultingastot in brassis assimple the skok. A rouncF. file tc zwmove
as driling a sevies of non-over- the "weV between thehoh,sqe
lapang hofes (as shown), then Fig. I. And a flat mill Be ko B e
f#mgthe slot .smooth. the slot straight, see Pig. 2.

26 ShopNotes No. 8
 Using a Bevel Gauge
a- LAYING OUT AN ANGLE
A

A sliding bevel gauge is fre-

quently used to lay out an angle
TO SET BEVEL
directly on a workpiece (such as a
bevel or taper).
APROTRACTOR. A quick and
easy way to do this is to use a
protractor, see Fig. 1.Just loosen
the wing nut, set the blade to the
desired angle, and lock it in place.
Once you've set the angle ofthe
gauge, position it on your work-
piece and lay out the angle, see
Fig. 2.

DUPLIGATMG AN ANGLE
A bevel gauge is also handy when
you need to cut a workpiece to
match another.
SET ANGLE. TO set the gauge,
hold the bevel gauge in one hand
and the workpiece in the other.
Then adjust the blade to match
the w~rkpiece,see Fig. 3.
~ S ~ R A N G L E After
. the
-% W ~ X O Qcan b-awkrthe
&WF
.Qd&bfreU**-eJ
page
&a$k*&*mm"a.

H Finishing brass to a soft luster

is easy. It's just a matter of sand-
ing with silicon carbide sandpa-
per, see photo. I start with 120
cnit, and go to 240,400 ,and 600.

I
Then bufi-with 0000 steel WOOL
~~TAL-GS. The only prob-
lem with sanding brass is it cre-
ates tiny metal filings that can
scratch the project, see Drawing.
PAPER TOWELS. A solution is
to setthe project on apaper towel
1
i or cloth ~ o t Use
c a kesh piece
? when you turn the projeet over so
To get a satin smooth finish on fiiings won't scratch the brass.
bath brass and wood, I sand with F W Finally,
~ to seal the
progressrvety finer grtts of sand- wood and brass, I wipe on a cou-
paper. Then buff wih steel woo!. ple coats of tung oil.

No. 8 ShopNotes 27
p~~-
 Shop Solutions
II have an older belt sander that
doesn't have a dust bag attach-
ment. To help reduce the amount
of dust in the shop, I built a"minin
"
dust collector that clamps to my
workbench and connects to my
shop vacuum, see photo.
VACUUM SLOT.A narrow slot
in the top of the collector allows
the vacuum to pull dust out of the
$1: The slot creates a thin wall of
suction that draws down the dust
into the collector as it comes fly-
ing out of the back of the sander.
CONSTRUCTION.The dust col-
lector is basically a box with 3A"-
thick sides and erui.s. And a top
and bottom made of V4"-thickMa-
sonite, see Drawing.
To create the vacuum slot, the
top is madein two pieces, that are
Quick lips
ILike many woodworkers, I use
the shop floor when assembling
larger projects. But the floor in
my shop is uneven and can throw
the project out of square.
To create a flat assembly area,
I lay a solid-coredoor on the floor.
The door provides a large, flat
surface and when not in use I just
lean it up against a wall. In addi-
tion, the door protects my pro-
jects from getting scratched and
28
--
II TOP L 2 Y z " d
/LEAVE
f~
A W OPENING
2 ~ 2
I
"
I II k
spaced s/kMapart. I made one of ning the sander over it.
the top pieces oversized so it can Before you glue the parts ofthe
be clamped to the end of my collector together, cut a hole in
bench, see photo above. one of the ends to fit the nozzle on
This also allows the dust collec- your vacuum hose.
tor to serve as a stop to keep the Harry Svee
workpiece in place while I'm run- Ames, Iowa
nicked by the concrete floor.
Many lumberyards and home
centers offer slightly damaged
. Waterstones need to be satu-
rated in water to work properly.
But between use, the stones dry
solid-core doors in their scratch out. So to speed up the time it
and dent department. (I pur- takes to saturate a waterstone, I
chased a door locally for $10.) store my wet waterstones after
Zack Stilwell eachuse inplastic'2ip-LocK'bags.
Hudsolz, Wisconsin Since the water can't evapo-
Editor's Note: A Hollou-core rate, it only takes a few second*
door may cost less and be lighw, to ready a stone for the next use.
but it's not as sturdy and wont Jon daFlon
stand up well under heavy loads. Laberty, Missouri
ShopNotes No. 8
1
 the holes in the auxiliary fence.
1 To solve this problem, I re- Bq Ember, Montana

Drill Bit 5aacer

I
0.actLocating a hole or a slot an ex-
distance away from the edge
of a workpiece can be tricky. The
problem is measuring between a
r o d drill bit and aflat fence.
To avoid this, I use a drill bit as
a spacer, seeDrawing.Just select
FROM EDGE OF
a spacer that's the same diameter
as the distance you're positioning
the fence. Then place the spacer
between the fence and the bit,
and clamp the fence in place.
Dennis Delvin
New Brighton, Minnesota
-.~

5aw Guard
saws, I use plastic binders from
t.hem.to: ShpNote&,Attn: Shop So-
most office supply stores.) Moines;IA 50312.

'the pulilished length. Send an ex$-

Port Washington, New YOTk

 Abrasive m
Pads
0 ne of the secrets to getting what gives the pad the flexibility of accidentally leaving behind a
asmooth f i s h on aproject to conform to imeguh shapes.
is to "sandninbetween coats. This
"sliver" that can rust when the
RESISTS CLOGGING.The web finish is applied.
eliminates any "nibs" that can be design also prevents the pads S O ~ C E SAlthough
. they look
caused by anything from dust in from loading up with dried finish. suspiciously like a kitchen scour-
the air to bubbles in the Msh. As you rub the pad across the ing pad, abrasive pads aren't
For years I used sandpaper or workpiece, the fibers wear away found in the grocery store. The
steel wool in between coats to and expose fresh abrasive parti- pads I bought were hanging next
smooth out the finish. But to the sandpaper at the
recently I came across a hardware store. They're
new product and decided Abrasive pads don't clog u p like also available in several
to give it a try -abrasive sandpaper or leave tinu '$JiveysV tool catalogs, see Mail Or-
pads. I was impressed. der Sources on page 31.
The pads didn't clog up -bekind like steel wool. BRANDS.Regardless of
with dried finish like where yon buy abrasive
sandpaper or leave tiny "slivers" cles. So it's like having a new pad pads, you're likely to see a vari-
behind like steel wool. And they with each stroke. The result is a ety of brand names like Scoteh-
were flexible enough to mold to u n i f m surface that accepts the Brite, Bear-Tex or S d - R i t e .
the curved parts of the project. next coat of finish evenly. That's because several different
To find out more about how the WATERBASED FINISHES. One companies manufacture them in-
pads work, I gave Mike Virgintino other advantage of the pads is cluding the 3 M Company, Nor-
from the 3M Company a call. they're especially suitable to the ton, and Gerson.
m s . H e said that the pads new waterbased finishes. That's C o ~ o ~ c o D EInn . addition to
consist of small abrasive particles because the fibers that make up the difference in brands, each
that are bonded into a "web" of the web are synthetic. So unlike manufacturer "color codes" the
-
interlockim fibers. Thk web is steel wool. vou don't run the risk oads accordine to the erit. see -
photo at left. The problem is the
coding isn't consistent from one
company to the next. To ensure
you're getting the grit you want,
there's usually a steelwool equiva-
lent in the product information.
GRITS. While the color of the
pad may vary, one thing you can
be sure of is the pads range in
grits from very coarse to extra
fine. The coarse grits can be used
for heavy-duty stripping jobs.
And the finer grits work well in
between coats of finish or as a
"polishing"pad.
For most finishing jobs, I scuff.
the dried finish with a #O pad and
then work up to a #00 pad before
applying the next coat.

30 ShopNotes No. 8
 Sources
ShcpNotes Project Supplies is of- ueed to supply is the hardwood able front rail, one piece for the
fering some of the hardware and and a small piece of 1/4"-thickMa- hack rail.) All you need to supply
supplies needed for the projects sonite. is the wood to make the fence, and
in this issue. 56808-100 Box Joint Jig the correct size mounting bolts
We've also put together alist of Hardware Kit ................... $17.95 for attaching the rails to the band
other mail order sources that saw tahle.
have the same or similar hard- BAND SAW FENCE 56808-200 Band Saw Fence
ware and supplies. One sure way to improve the per- Hardware Kit ...................$24.95
formance of your band saw is to
BOX JOINT 516 add the Band Saw Fence System SLIDING BEVEL 6AUGE
The shop-built Box Joint Jig shown on page 16. This system All you ueed to make the Sliding
(shown on page 6) attaches to consists of two basic parts: a set Bevel Gauge featured on page 22

.
your miter gauge and makes it of metal rails, and a wood fence. is a small amount of wood and a
easy to cut perfect-fitting box The special rail design allows few brass parts.
joints on the table saw. Note: The you to adjust the fence to com- The brass screws and nuts can
Box Joint Jig can also he used on pensate for drift. @rift is the ten- usually be found at a local hard-
the ShopNotes Router Table or dency for a band saw blade to pull ware store. The 1"x 12" brass
any other router tahle that has a to one side when making a cut.) strip and the brass rod are avail-
miter gauge slot. The fence locks securely to the able at most hobby stores.
But what sets this jig apart front rail and can be fitted with a However if you can't find these
from other box joint jigs is how couple of handy accessories. One parts locally, ShopNotes Project
easily and accurately it can he is a tall auxiliary fence for added Sup-plies is offering a kit that in-
.
adjusted. We used several pieces support when resawing. The cludes all the brass parts (not the
of hardware to create a unique other is an adjustable stop block. wood) to make the Bevel Gauge.
micro-adjustable system that ShopNotes Project Supplies is S6808-300 Sliding Bevel
lets you "dial in" perfect-fitting offering a hardware kit for the Gauge Hardware Kit ........$4.95
box joints. Band Saw Fence System. The kit
ShqNotes Project Supplies is includes all the hardware to build KEYLESS CHUCK UPDATE
offering a hardware kit that in- the fence (screws, bolts, nuts, In Shop Solutions(on page 29) we
cludes all the hardware needed to washers, knobs, and a spacer). mentioned a keyless chuck(for a
make the Box Joint Jig. We've We've also included the alumi- drill press) sold by Grizzly Im-
even included the plastic star num angle needed to make the ports. As far as we know, it's the
knobs and the metal plates to rails. You'll receive three 24"long only source for this type of chuck,
make the adjustable key. All you pieces (two pieces for the adjust- see Mail Order Sources.

Similar hadware and supplies m a g be found in the

I followiryr catalogs. P l ~ a s eall
e each companyfor a catalog
1 orfor orddryr in&mation.
Constantine'e HighlandJimdware WOatd
8W-22?-€987 80&2414748 W225-1158
Augm Bit Ftle, Had- Augm Bit P a , Dia- Alnadee Pads, Augw
maMINsedle Fdes Bit File, Hadware @Wandsh4,&*4, Befort? miling, have your
I Garrett Wade
806221-2942
Leichtong
SCiM214S4a
The Woodsmlth
519-255-8979 an&salesW. m,MasterOard, or Dis-
Auger BU F Z ~ ~ h z v pods
e Am&e Pads, ha, &thethemaibrder~oz%hot cover Gad readv.
& w ~ 7MndNeadle ~ a WBS ~ ~
80M416537 Ka-m-wm TheWbalworlrers'
ihdLh S 8 ~ E P& W Store
Chuck 612-428-2199
H ~ ~ K n o B s

ShopNotes