Shingle - Zen Building Material SB PDF

ORIENTAL HOUSETOP SDN BHD Method of Statements
METHOD OF
STATEMENTS
_______________________________________________________For the Home of a Lifetime

SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION
1.1 HOW ARE ASPHALT SHIGNLE MADE
1.2 SHINGLE TYPE
SECTION 2: TOOLS
2.1 INSTALLATION FOR ROOF DECK
2.2 INSTALLATION FOR SHINGLE ROOFING
SECTION 3: PRE INSTALLATION SHINGLE

3.1 ROOF DECK SUPPORT
3.2 FASCIA BOARD
3.3 RAINWATER GUTTER
3.4 INSULATION
3.5 VENTILATION PIPE
3.6 EXTERNAL PLASTER WORK
3.7 ROOF ACCESSORIES
SECTION 4: ROOF DECK

4.1 ROOF DECK
4.2 INSTALLATION METHOD
4.3 UNACCEPTABLE DECK
4.4 EFFECTS OF ROOF SLOPE ON APPLICATION AND MATERIAL SPECIFICATION
SECTION 5: FASTERNER
5.1 GENERAL FASTERNER
SECTION 6: WINTER GUARD

SECTION 7: UNDERLAYMENT FELT

SECTION 8: METAL DRIP EDGE

SECTION 9: WALL FLASHING

SECTION 10: UNIVERSAL STARTER

SECTION 11: SHINGLE

11.1.1 SHINGLE
11.1.2 HIP & RIDGE
11.1.3 VALLEY
SECTION 12: VENTILATION SYSTEM

12.1 INLET & OUTLET
SECTION 13: APPENDIX
SHOP DRAWINGS
CATALOGUE
COMPANY ORGANIZATION
WORK SCHEDULE
CIDB CERTIFICATE
______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 2

SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION
1.1 HOW ARE ASPHALT SHINGLE MADE
The manufacturing process for asphalt shingles starts with a tough reinforcing “membrane” or “fabric”. The
membrane used with organic shingle (the original “asphalt shingle”) is called felt. The membrane used with
fiber glass shingles is called a mat. A mat is made of glass fiber and a special binder. The felt used with organic
shingles is made from wood chip, recycle paper and recycle corrugated boxes.
Several materials are added to the reinforcing fabrics as the shingle are being manufactured. The first materials
put on the fabric are the layer of asphalts that make shingle tough and water resistant. The amount of asphalt
used gives the shingle its thickness and much of its weight, and adds to its strength. Up to a point, the more
asphalt used, the longer the shingle will last. However, the quality of the asphalts is even more important than
the quantity. Low quality asphalt can be brittle and cause the shingle to have a shortened life. High quality
asphalt keeps the shingles more flexible. Finely pulverized minerals, called stabilizers or filler are added to the
asphalt to give the shingle more “body” and “toughness”, which ultimately increase the life of the shingle.
When too little stabilizer is used, the shingle become soft and “gooey” and they scuff easily. However, scuffing
in high heat is not sign of a poor shingle. A certain amount of softness at high temperatures is a necessary
feature of good quality flexible asphalt. The installer must take precaution to avoid scuffing during mid day
heat when using good quality shingles. Such precautions included early working hours and the use of carpet or
foam rubber “sit-upon” and “shoe-wraps. If shingle applications instructions recommend a “racking” method,
that can help keep workers off the shingles, as they can work to the side of the shingle rack.
Next, small opaque granules are adhered to the asphalt to protect the shingle from the harmful ultraviolet rays
of the sun. Made from crushed and screened rock, these granules receive a ceramic colour coating which gives
the shingle its colour. Sometimes, a layer of copper is added for algae resistance. A crushed mineral called
“back surfacing” is applied to the back of the shingle. The back surfacing is added to keep the shingle from
sticking to the manufacturing machinery and from sticking to each other when they are stacked and wrapped in
bundle. Some manufacturers use heavy back surfacing that gives the shingle more weight. Solid and broken
strips of sealant adhesive may be applied to the face or back of the shingle to seal and hold down under severe
wind conditions. Release tape prevents shingle from sticking together while packaged.
1.2 SHINGLE TYPE
THREE-TAB STRIP SHINGLES
LAMINATED SHINGLES
MID WEIGHT DIMENSINAL SHINGLES
HEAVY WEIGHT DIMENSIONAL SHINGLES
SUPER SHAKE
SUPER SHANGLE

SECTION 2: TOOLS
2.1 INSTALLATION FOR ROOF DECK
2.2 INSTALLATION FOR SHINGLE ROOF
HAMMER HAND DRILL
EXTENSION CABLE MAKITA PLYWOOD CUTTER
MEASUREMENT TAPE HAND GLOVE

SAFETY HELMET SAFETY ROPE
PLYWOOD SCREW – 1 ¼” @ 60MM LENGTH INDUSTRY STAPLER
PLYWOOD NAIL – 2” @ 50MM LENGTH STAPLER REFILL
SAFETY BELT SHINGLE NAIL – ¾” @ 20MM LENGTH

SEALANT-SILICONE GUN SEALANT-SILICONE
GRINDER BLADE
SECTION 3: PRE INSTALLATION SHINGLE
The “Pre Installation Shingle” is a self-study handout. By studying and learning the information in this
handbook, you can become a more effective and more professional installer.
The “Pre Installation Shingle” contain 2(two) different chapters. One type is the roof system oriented chapter
and the others is product application. Roof system chapters included, for example “The Roof Decking”, The
Roof Truss – Battens Installation) and “Flashing”. These chapters focus exclusively on the roof system
components described by the title and are different from each others.
On the other hand, product application chapters focus on the installation of the specified product and contain
some repetitive information from chapter to chapter. This is intentional so that quick brush up on the
installation instruction for a single product is possible without flipping back and forth among different chapters.
In addition, each product chapter contains much of the detailed application instruction and illustration that
appear on the simplified bundle wrappers of CertainTeed shingle products. This illustrated instructional format
was developed in response to requests from roofing contractors, who asked for wrappers that would help
installation.
The “Pre Installation Shingle” is created to target or help the beginner stage of an installer. It gives more
understanding by using drawings and pictures shows on the requirement for a proper installation of shingle
roofing system.

3.1 ROOF DECK SUPPORT
Roof decking support is mainly referred to the battens installed to the truss system. Battens are used to provide
the fixing point for the decking. The orientation and spacing of the battens depends on the type of roof. Battens
may be oriented at right angles to the trusses or rafters of a roof, like purlins. They may be parallel to the slope
of the roof, as on a batten seam roof, where the battens cover seams in the roofing material. Some roofs may
use a grid of battens in both directions, known as a counter-batten system.
As for shingle roofing system, it requires installation a layer of plywood. Therefore, we are advice that the
battens to be run vertically/horizontally at the spacing of 406mm c/c / 16” inches c/c.
Important Note: Such spacing of battens is important because of the decking require sufficient
support by the truss system and sufficient screw line. In order decking (plywood) is smoother and
not sagged & bulged.
3.2 FASCIA BOARD
Fascia is a term which generally describes any horizontal surface which spans across the top of columns or
across the top of a wall.
Specifically, used to describe the horizontal "fascia board" which caps the end of rafters outside a building,
which can be used to hold the rain gutter. The finished surface below the fascia and rafters is called the soffit or
eave. A soffit is also often installed between the ceiling and the top of wall cabinets in a kitchen, set at a 90
degree angle to the horizontal soffit which projects out from the wall.
In steep-slope roofing, a board that is nailed to the ends of a roof rafter; sometimes supports a gutter. In low-
slope roofing, the horizontal trim located at the perimeter of a building. Typically, it is a border for the low-
slope roof system.
Always remember that for shingle roofing system, fascia board’s installations are at the level height with
battens height. With this, the roof eave of the decking (plywood) can be fasten onto the fascia top which can
create a better finishing and neater edging.
Never allow any of the decking (plywood) protruding out from the top fascia board line. As it can result
damages at the roof eave decking (plywood) due to continuous / long period of time contacting to the
rainwater. Rainwater can be easily brought backward by a strong wind.
3.3 RAINWATER GUTTER
Rain gutter, A narrow channel which collects rainwater from the roof of a building and diverts it away from the
structure, typically into a drain.
Normally, rainwater gutter is a subjective item as roof accessories. However, we need to take note that
rainwater gutter are require completed as well before any of the shingle roofing system can be proceed. This is
because of the edge finishing item name Metal Drip Edge / Metal Gutter Drip Edge are require to be install for
the prevention of rainwater back flow from behind rainwater gutter.
3.4 INSULATION
Most roof insulations are made from fiberglass which is laid down between the rafters and allow to retain
warmth during cold wintry season inside the house and to keep it cool during hot summers. The thickness and
density of the fibers usually vary according to the manufacturer and the price of the fiberglass depends on these
two characteristics.
The effectiveness of the insulation is also determined by the thickness and density of the fibers used. Having a
roof insulation installed would help thwart the ill effects of foul weather and prevent the roof from leaking
during the rains. They also provide heat insulation and keeps the interior warm and cozy.

3.5 VENTILATION PIPE
Ventilation pipe is a pipe where it connected to your sewerage pipe at each of the toilet area. It serve the
function of ventilate in the sewer pipeline as the prevention of bad smell from the sewer line coming back into
the building area
3.6 EXTERNAL PLASTER WORK
Plasterwork refers to construction or ornamentation done with plaster, such as a layer of plaster on an interior
wall or plaster decorative moldings on ceilings or walls. This is also sometimes called pargeting. The process of
creating plasterwork, called plastering, has been used in building construction for centuries.
3.7 ROOF ACCESSORIES
Roof accessories such as the lightning arrestor, solar heater, ventilation system, and skylight, all this shall
require extra attention to the finishing area at the roof as this can cause water leakage when finishing is not
been done properly.
SECTION 4: ROOF DECK
4.1 ROOF DECK
The roof deck is the structural surface over which the roofing materials are applied. The roof deck should be a
stable, smooth, solid surface which will permit the shingles to be securely fastened. The roof deck must be
strong to support the roofing materials and workers, safety resist impact load (such as a pile of shingles), hold
uniform loads, provide resistance to wind force and anchor nails.
All five of these capabilities must remain effective during the service life of each application of shingles that
may be installed on the deck now and in future.
To be acceptable to Oriental Housetop Sdn Bhd, a plywood deck must be build with plywood that is least
12mm thick or equivalent to any timber base decking and supported by rafters of battens spaced 16” (406mm
c/c) on center. Thicker plywood will make a better deck
Plywood panel should be installed with a 1/8” spacing between them or as specified by the manufacture.

4.3 UNACCEPTABLE DECK
The materials listed in this section are not acceptable for use as a roof deck for direct application of
Certainteed's roofing product. These surfaces must be covered with an acceptable decking material, with
ventilation as required, prior to the application of Certainteed shingles.
All of the following products are not likely to provide a proper surface for fasteners to hold and seal properly
for the warranted life of the shingles. Direct shingle application can lead to over driven or under driven
fasteners. Over driven fastener can damage the shingle, increasing the chances of wind blow and leakage due
to wind driven rain. The leads of under driven fastener or of those that back out, may prevent shingles from
sealing, reduce the wind blow resistance and puncture the shingle tab above, leading to leak. Also, fastener will
not consistently seal and may leak if water reaches fasteners due to wind driven rain.
The following items of materials are not recommended for the application as the base of decking
· Cementitious Wood Fiber
This material is made of shredded wood bonded with Portland cement or magnesium
oxychloride cement and formed into boards without a nailable surface
· Gypsum
This deck material is made of either poured in place gypsum or of gypsum plank reinforce
with wire mesh cast in a tongue and groove frame.
· Lightweight Concrete
This is a composed of Portland cement and either vermiculite or expanded perlite mixed with
water and smooth to desired thickness over a base of vented steel decking.
· Insulations Board
Rigid insulation product like Urethane, Iscoynaurate, Polystyrene, Fiber glass.
4.4 EFFECTS OF ROOF SLOPE ON APPLICATION AND MATERIAL SPECIFICATION
LOW SLOPE (10º - 17.5º)

The application instructions for each Certainteed roofing product indicate the minimum slope below which the
product must not be applied, and a range of slope where “low slope” application must followed. These
instructions call for the use of a waterproofing shingle underlayment, such as Certainteed Winterguard
Waterproofing Underlayment or a double layer of asphalt felt underlayment. Follow the application instructions
for the particular shingle. The range of slope requiring this special low slope application and the minimum
slope for Certainteed roofing product are 18 º degrees.

SECTION 5: FASTERNER
5.1 GENERAL FASTERNER
Proper placement of fasteners is important for shingles performance and warranty protection. Ideally,
placement of fasteners should be as specified accordingly to the precise locations shown for each shingle.
However, in practice some variation is acceptable.
When fastening a typical three tab, strip type shingle, Oriental Housetop Sdn Bhd requires that approximate
three to four fasteners shall be used depending to the length of the piece if shingle piece.
Nails are preferred than staples. Nails locations vary by shingle style and by roof slope. It is critical to fasten
the shingle in the proper locations in order to achieve designed performance. Improperly fastened shingles may
blow off and slip out of place. The use of asphalt roofing cement on most shingle when applied to step down is
required on most shingle when applied to steep slope exceeding 60º degrees. When fastening a heavier and
thicker shingle product, Oriental Housetop Sdn Bhd requires a longer nails.
Staples can perform acceptably if properly applied, but proper alignment and application is more difficult with
staples than with nails, making shingles damage and blow off more likely. Oriental Housetop Sdn Bhd
specified that only certain types of shingles are apply able using staples. Oriental Housetop Sdn Bhd still
recommended using nails for the application of shingles.
When capping ridges and hips, be sure the fasteners are long enough to penetrates and hold the deck properly.
Installing caps requires longer fasteners than those used to apply field shingles. When installing the last cap in a
row of hip or ridges shingles, face nails this piece and protects the nails head with nickel size spots of asphalt
roofing cement (bitumen) or sealant.

SECTION 6: WINTER GUARD

The peel and flop application method in valley or equivalent method as long as the winter guard is installing
without wrinkle and buckles. In valley, start the application at the low point and work upward. To assure
waterproofing, overlap all WinterGuard sheets at 4”-6” approximately at lap joint. The uppermost portion must
overlap the lower portion.
SECTION 7: UNDERLAYMENT FELT
Unroll the underlayment parallel with the eaves roof. Around the perimeter of the underlayment, place the
staples approximately 6-8 inches apart. In the main area of the underlayment, approximately two rows of
staples are used.

SECTION 8: METAL DRIP EDGE
Install Metal Drip Edge parallel with the eaves roof and gable roof with suitable degree bending. Lap each joint
of the Metal Drip Edge at approximately 1”-2” joint lap. It shall be fastening with nail at approximate 3-4 nails
every 8feet length. Trim off any additional length of the drip edge with cutter and finish off with a proper cut
joint.
Metal Drip Edge @ Gutter
Metal Drip Edge @ Eave Roof

Metal Drip Edge @ Gable Roof
SECTION 9: WALL FLASHING
The width of the step flashing on the deck must be at least 3” wide and the height of the step flashing installed
against the vertical surface must be at least 2’ high. For the step flashing application, the piece of flashing must
overlap each other by at least 2”. The length of the step flashing is depending to the type of shingles being
applied. When installing step flashing against a vertical sidewall place the first flashing piece over the end of
the starter strip and finally, position it so that when the tab of the end shingle in the first course is applied, the
flashing will be covered completely. Fasten the part which sits on the roof with one nail. Next, apply the first
course shingle up to the wall. Position the second step flashing piece over the first course shingle and against
the wall, 5” up from the bottom edge of the first course shingle. This will permit the tab of the shingle in the
second course to cover it completely. Continue up the roof or side wall area in a similar manner until complete.
To apply base flashing against a vertical front wall, apply the shingle up the roof a course must be trimmed to
fit at the base of the vertical wall. By planning ahead you can adjust the exposure slightly in the previous
course, so that the last shingle is at least 8” wide. This allows a minimum 5” exposure of the top course and 3”
headlap. The metal flashing strip should be bent, using a metal brake, to extend at least 2” p the vertical wall
and at least 3” onto the last shingle course that is to the top of the cutout. Apply the metal flashing which can be
8’ to 10’ in length, over the last course of shingle. Embed the metal flashing in asphalt roofing cement or
another appropriate adhesive and nail it to the roof every 12’. Do not nail the strip to the wall. If side laps are
necessary, overlap the pieces at least 6”. Do not fasten in this joint area. Apply an additional row of shingle

over the metal flashing strip, trimmed to match the vertical width of the metal flashing strip onto the shingle
surface. Fasten shingle with face nails sealed over with small dab of roofing cement.
SECTION 10: UNIVERSAL STARTER
Use CertainTeed Starter (per cut 10” x 36”), or use standard three tab self sealing shingle with the lower 5” tab
portion removed to provide starter shingle that are 7” height. For the first starter, cut approximately 6”-8” from
one side of the starter shingles. Apply the approximately 28”-30” piece to the lower left or right corner of the
roof. Make sure there is approximately ½” – 1” overhanging the rakes and eaves if drip edge is being used. If
you are not using drip edge, make the overhang approximately ¾’ – 1 ¼”. Use the full piece of 36” long, 7”
wide starter shingle for the rest of the course.
(Note: Do not align any of the starter piece joint with the first course of shingle)

SECTION 11: SHINGLE
11.1.1 SHINGLE
Method of installation for shingle course:
i) Five Course Diagonal Method
ii) Vertical Racking Method & etc
i) Five Course Diagonal Method (Sevens or Fourteens)

1st course: Apply a full piece shingle at the lower left or right corner of the roof. Make the lower edge
and left / right edge flush or approximately ½” – 1” out from the rake deck. Cut approximately 7” off
the left or right 2nd course and save this piece for later use. Apply the approximately 30” long piece
above the first course shingle. Leave the bottom approximately 5” tab portion of the first course
shingle exposed. Cut approximately 14” off the shingle of the third course and save this for later.
Install the approximately 23” long piece over and above the second course shingle. Apply the
previously removed approximately 14” long piece over and above the third course shingle. Apply the
previous removed 7” long piece from the second course over and above the fourth course shingle.
Install a full shingle against the right or left edge of each shingle in course on through five. Beginning
again with a full shingle, repeat the five course pattern up the left or right rake.
Remarks: Three Course Diagonal (Sevens or Fourteens) forming same pattern.
Important Note: Do not align joints of shingles closer than 3 ½” from one another.
Five Course Diagonal
ii) Vertical Racking Method (Single Column)

1st Course: Apply a full shingle at the lower left or right corner of the roof. 2nd Course: Cut
approximately 6”-7” off the left or right end of a shingle and apply approximately 31” – 32” piece
over the first course shingle and exposing the first course 5” approximately. Begin the application of
the remaining courses by alternating the use of full shingle and cut off shingle all the way up the rake
in a single column. Expose each course 5”
Important Note: This Vertical Racking Method (Single Column) method is approved for
applying most of the CertainTeed Shingle (except for Independence Shangle, Hallmark
Shangle and New Horizon Shangle). However, “Double Column” vertical racking (in which two
shingle are laid side by side up the roof) is NOT recommended because it can result in
unattractive patterns.

Do not align joints of shingles closer than 3 ½” from one another.
Vertical Racking
11.1.2 HIP & RIDGE

First apply the shingles up to the hip and ridge on both side, then trim flush. Start installing the caps at
the bottom of a hip or either end of the ridge. Fasten each cap shingle with two nails installed
approximately 6” from the bottom edge and approximately 1” in from each side. Leave only 5” tab
expose to the weather. Do not expose fasteners.
11.1.3 VALLEY
As for shingle forming in valley area (closed cut valley), either one side of the roof is lay across
another side under. Trim off shingle on upper part diagonally in a neat position.

SECTION 12: VENTILATION SYSTEM
12.1 INLET & OUTLET

Ventilations are a system of intake and exhaust that creates a flow of air. Effective attics ventilations provides
year round benefits, creating cooler attics in the summer and drier attics in the winter, protecting against
damages to materials and structures, helping to reduce energy consumption.
With poor ventilations, sunshine can cause a terrific build up of heat in the attics space. If the unventilated attic
is heavily insulated, that heat will stay there much of the night, perhaps slowly migrating to the home interior's.
An overheated attic, combined with moisture can also be damaging to roof decking and roofing shingles
causing them to distort and deteriorate prematurely.

SECTION 13: APPENDIX
SHOP DRAWINGS
CATALOGUE

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ORIENTAL HOUSETOP SDN BHD Method of Statements

_______________________________________________________For the Home of a Lifetime

SECTION 3: PRE INSTALLATION SHINGLE

SECTION 4: ROOF DECK

SECTION 6: WINTER GUARD

SECTION 7: UNDERLAYMENT FELT

SECTION 8: METAL DRIP EDGE

SECTION 9: WALL FLASHING

SECTION 10: UNIVERSAL STARTER

SECTION 11: SHINGLE

SECTION 12: VENTILATION SYSTEM

SECTION 13: APPENDIX

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 2

1.1 HOW ARE ASPHALT SHINGLE MADE

1.2 SHINGLE TYPE

THREE-TAB STRIP SHINGLES

MID WEIGHT DIMENSINAL SHINGLES

HEAVY WEIGHT DIMENSIONAL SHINGLES

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 3

2.1 INSTALLATION FOR ROOF DECK

2.2 INSTALLATION FOR SHINGLE ROOF

HAMMER HAND DRILL

EXTENSION CABLE MAKITA PLYWOOD CUTTER

MEASUREMENT TAPE HAND GLOVE

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 4

PLYWOOD SCREW – 1 ¼” @ 60MM LENGTH INDUSTRY STAPLER

PLYWOOD NAIL – 2” @ 50MM LENGTH STAPLER REFILL

SAFETY BELT SHINGLE NAIL – ¾” @ 20MM LENGTH

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 5

SEALANT-SILICONE GUN SEALANT-SILICONE

SECTION 3: PRE INSTALLATION SHINGLE

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 6

3.1 ROOF DECK SUPPORT

3.2 FASCIA BOARD

3.3 RAINWATER GUTTER

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 7

3.6 EXTERNAL PLASTER WORK

3.7 ROOF ACCESSORIES

SECTION 4: ROOF DECK

4.1 ROOF DECK

4.2 INSTALLATION METHOD

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 8

4.4 EFFECTS OF ROOF SLOPE ON APPLICATION AND MATERIAL SPECIFICATION

LOW SLOPE (10º - 17.5º)

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 9

5.1 GENERAL FASTERNER

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 10

6.1 INSTALLATION METHOD

SECTION 7: UNDERLAYMENT FELT

7.1 INSTALLATION METHOD

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 11

8.1 INSTALLATION METHOD

Metal Drip Edge @ Gutter

Metal Drip Edge @ Eave Roof

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 12

Metal Drip Edge @ Gable Roof

SECTION 9: WALL FLASHING

9.1 INSTALLATION METHOD

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 13

SECTION 10: UNIVERSAL STARTER

10.1 INSTALLATION METHOD

______________________________________________________ For the Home of a Lifetime 14

11.1 INSTALLATION METHOD