Textile Raw Material-II

COURSE CODE: TEX2101

BASIC PRINCIPLE OF TEXTILE FIBER
MANUFACTURING
 BASIC STRUCTURE OF A FIBER
Manufacturing of the fiber forming polymer
All manmade fibers are composed of long chain molecules
known as polymer which are formed by chemical processing
of some linking and functional groups
– Amide or Peptide groups (-CO-NH-)
– Benzene ring or Glucose ring
– Ether linkage ( -C-O-C-)
– Ester (-C-O-O-) & Ester Amide linkage – COO –NH –
– Hydroxyl group (-OH)
– Cyanide group (-C-N-)
– Carboxyl Group (–COOH)
– Sulfonate Group (–SO3H)
– Amino Group (–NH2 )
– Cystin Bonding (– S – S –)
BASIC STRUCTURE OF CELLULOSE AND
CELLULOSIC FIBERS : VISCOSE, MODAL,
LYOCELL, CUPRO ETC.
 BASIC STRUCTURE OF CELLULOSE AND
CELLULOSIC FIBERS : VISCOSE, MODAL,
LYOCELL, CUPRO ETC.
Write down monomer, repeating unit, DP/Mol mass, linking element, side groups,
end groups, dye abilities of regenerated fibers and their behavior with
water/moisture, with alkali, with acid and other organic solvents.
Viscose (CV): Monomer: Repeating unit:

DP/Mol mass: 300-350, Linking element=, Side groups= , end groups=

,
dye abilities: Reactive, Vat, Direct, Sulfer, Azoic
 PRINCIPLE OF TEXTILE FIBER MANUFACTURING
How a manmade fiber is being generally manufactured?
Spinning is manufacturing process to form fibers from polymer, made from
chemicals.
The spinning fluid solidifies as it emerges from the spinneret, inside the filament;
the micro fibrils are not very well ordered. Drawing the filament down to a thinner
section causes the disordered micro fibrils to become oriented more in the direction
of the filament axis. Crystalline regions are formed within the micro fibrils through
individual molecular chains bonding together along their length. Amorphous
regions are between and at the surfaces of the micro fibrils. The formation of
crystalline micro fibrils, and their orientation along the filament axis is what gives
the filament its strength. Drawing may be done during spinning and also in a
separate, subsequent process.
Manmade fibers are heat sensitive and they melt easily. They are resistant to moths
and fungi, have low absorbency, and are abrasion-resistant. Synthetic fibers are
strong and easy to care for. They are less expensive and readily available.
PRINCIPLE OF TEXTILE FIBER MANUFACTURING
 Drawing, Stretching and Orientation
LOY, POY. FOY/FDY: Ordered/Fully Oriented called crystal and
disordered/low ordered called amorphous
LOY: It is is the filament which has no stretching and orientation.
POY: Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) produced from semi-dull via melting
spun using an extruder: So the term partially oriented yarn refers to
multi-filament that is only partially stretched. Effect of die extruder temperature
on elongation of the POY.
FOY:
 Filament Spinning
Filament Spinning: The conversion of polymer into
fiber is called spinning. The fiber forming substance is
made temporarily fluid, extruded through spinneret and
then returned to solid state (by solidification) in to fiber
form by three types of spinning process:
– Melt spinning (Synthetic).
– Wet spinning (Regenerated).
– Dry spinning (Regenerated & Semi-Synthetic).
– Gel spinning or dispersion
– Electrospinning
1. Melt spinning

 The process of spinning by which fibre or filament is produced from melted

polymer chips by extruding through spinneret continuous filament produced
here. Number of filament depends on number of holes in spinneret.
Fiber: Nylon, polyester, and polyolefin, poly propylene fibres.
Properties: Uniformity, crystallinity, and orientation are imparted to the yarn
during processing.
Working process

 The polymer in the form of hot molten material is forcely fed to the
spinneret.
 In the way to spinneret , the solution is purified by filter.
 Thus the filaments are extruded from spinneret .
 At last the filaments are strengthened by coolant air to solid form.
 Finally we get undrawn yarn for next subsequent process Drawing.
Requirements

 The polymer should not be volatile.

 The melting point of polymer should be less than
its decomposition temp.
Typical melt spinning

Polymer Melting point

Nylon-6,6 264 c
Nylon-6 220 c
PET 264 c
Polypropylene 167 c
Polyethylene 125 c
Advantage:

1. Can be used for both staple and continuous filament.

2. Direct and simple process.
3. No environment pollution.
4. No solvent required.
5. Non toxicity and no risk of explosion.
6. High production speed (2500 – 3000 ft/min)
Disadvantage:

 Required more proper maintenance of the m/c.

 For flat yarn separate stretching operation is reqd.
 Heat of input is high.
 1) Wet spinning
1) Wet spinning: In wet spinning a suitable solvent is
used to prepare fiber forming solution and another
coagulant is used in coagulating bath. Solution is
extruded through spinneret and in contact of coagulant
cellulose is regenerated and stretched in a stretch bath.
In this method is used for polymers which decompose on
melting. The method operates with drawing speeds from
50 to 100 m/min. The cost of recovering the solvent
makes this method expensive. Viscose, cupro- and
polyvinylalcohol fibers are drawn using this method.