FASH 15 textiles

the fiber manufacturing process

1889 the first manufactured fiber was shown at

the Paris Exhibition
1910 rayon
1924 acetate
1939 nylonsynthetic
the fiber manufacturing process
manufactured fiberany fiber derived by a process
of manufacture from a substance that at any point in
the process is not a fiber
generic namesrefers to family of manufactured or
synthetic fibers with similar chemical composition
trade namescompanies names for fibers used for
promotion & marketing

two types of manufactured fibers

regenerated
synthetic
impact has far exceeded original predictionscaused
tremendous changes in the way people live
the fiber manufacturing process
fiber spinning

raw material is:

natural productcellulose or protein
synthetic polymer
dissolved in liquid chemicals and made into a
spinning solution (dope)
all manufactured-fiber spinning processes are based
on these 3 steps:
1. preparing a viscous dope or melt
2. forcing or extruding dope or melt through opening in
spinneret to form a fiber
3. solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation or
cooling
fiber spinning
fiber spinning
fiber spinning
fiber modifications

there are 5 general ways that a fiber modification

can be made:
1. the size and shape of the spinneret can be changed to
produce fibers of different sizes and shapes
2. the fibers molecular structure and crystallinity can be
changed to enhance fiber durability
3. other compounds can be added to the polymer or dope
to enhance fiber performance
4. the spinning process can be modified to alter fiber
characteristics
5. in a more complex modification, two polymers can be
combined as separate entities within a single fiber or
yarn
fiber modificationsspinneret
changing fiber size is a common modification
simplest way is changing size of spinneret opening
macrofiber: denier greater than 1.0
microfiber: denier less than 1.0
ultrafine fibers: less than 0.3 dpf
nanofibers: fibers with cross sections measuring
less than 1,000 nanometers (human hair 80,000 nm)
macro & microfibers currently used in apparel and
interior applications
nanofibers used in protective apparel, safety
harnesses & technical/medical filtration
fiber modificationsfiber shape
changing cross-sectional shape is easiest way to
alter a fibers mechanical & aesthetic properties
usually by changing shape of spinneret hole
many shapes possible: flat, trilobal, quadrilobal,
pentalobal, triskelion, cruciform, cloverleaf, Y, T
trilobal widely used in nylon & polyesterbeautiful
silklike hand, sheen & color, subtle opacity, soil-
hiding capacity, bulk without weight, wicking, crush
resistance, & good textured crimp
multilobal fibers improve hydrophilic, wicking and
moisture management properties
fiber modificationsmolecular structure
manufacturers can change molecular structure for
specific end uses:
high-tenacity fibersmodification of polymer to
increase polymerization
low-piling fibersslightly reduced molecular weight
of polymer chains
binder staplewhen mixture is heated, bonds regular
fibers together
low-elongationchanging the balance of tenacity
and extension (useful in blends)
shape memory fibersdesigned to conform to
specific shape when specific stimuli (heat, light, etc)
are activated
fiber modificationsadditives

delustering:
titanium oxidea white pigmentis added to
spinning solution before fiber is extruded; particles of
pigment absorb lightweakens fiber

solution dyeing:
addition of colored pigments
or dyes to spinning solution;
provides color permanence;
cost more per pound
than other fibers
fiber modificationsadditives

whiteners & brighteners:

added to spinning solution to make fibers look whiter
& resist yellowing; reflect more blue light & masks
yellowing
cross-dyeable fibers:
incorporates dye-accepting chemicals into molecular
structure
antistatic fibers:
fiber is made wettable by adding an antistatic
compound to the fiber-polymer raw material
fiber modificationsadditives

sunlight-resistant fibers:
nitrogenous compounds added to dope to stabilize
reaction between UV light and fiber or dye; carefully
selected for specific fiber-dye combination

flame-resistant fibers:
produced by changing polymer structure or by
adding flame-retardant compounds to spinning
solution
fiber modificationsadditives

antibacterial fibers:
chemical compounds that kill or discourage growth
of bacteria and other microbes are incorporated in
spinning solution prior to extrusion or during
spinning
may require frequent washing to remove microbial
debris and allow additive to work on living microbes
fiber modificationscomplex

fiber modifications that provide comfort and improve

human performance are important in todays industry

more efficient materials produce lighter-weight, more

comfortable products
manage moisture
wick perspiration away from skin
provide warmth or insulation
decrease friction & increase speed
protect from wind, rain or snow

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnYaQgdazEQ
environmental concerns & sustainability
use only a small fraction of the by-products of the
production of gasoline and fuel oils
fibers like nylon, polyester & olefin produced from
natural gases or butadiene (by-product of refining
crude oil)
significant efforts have been made by fiber
producers to minimize negative environmental
aspects of fiber production:
government regulations
concern for safety
economic necessity of reducing costs
public image concerns
environmental concerns & sustainability
natural degrading of fiber?
with current landfill practices, natural fibers do not
even degrade on their own
recycling of synthetic fibers very important to
industrypolyester produced from preconsumer and
postconsumer waste include a range of products
from underwear to carpeting
100% recyclable products will be taken back by
manufacturer and recycled when disposed of by
consumer
manufactured fiber consumption

in 1928 manufactured fibers accounted for 5% of

fiber consumption in the U.S
now
64% world textile consumption
83% U.S. textile consumption

consumers continue to value natural fibers, but in

many end uses manufactured fibers are clearly
superior
manufactured vs. natural fibers

manufactured fibers provide performance options

not possible with natural fibers
incredibly versatile and modified to meet wide range
of performance expectations
can be produced quickly in the quantity and quality
needed to meet market demand