SPANDEX

LYCRA & T400/PES

Mithat ÖZTEKİN
Electronic Eng. (Ms)
Textile Fibers
Types of Fibers and Yarns

* Fibers are spun into yarn

* Yarns are uninterrupted threads of textile fibers that are ready to be turned
into fabrics

Fiber Types
* Natural
- Originate from natural sources
- Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein)

* Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable)

- Originate from chemical sources
- May also be from regenerated or recycled sources
Clasification of Fibers can be done by :
* Type ( Natural and Manufactured )
* Length ( Short staple, Long staple, Continuous Filament )
* Size ( Ultra fine, Fine, Regular, Course )

Staple and Filament Fibers

* Most Natural Fibers are Stable Fibers
* Staple fibers are rough

* Most Manufactured Fibers are Filament Fibers

* Filament fibers are smooth Durability
Fiber Characteristics

* Strength
* Durability
* Elasticity
* Washability
* Wrinkle Resistance
* Resiliency
* Abrasion Resistance
* Shape Retention
* Wicking
* Absorbency
Schematic Representation
of Fiber Types
I will mention two widely used fiber and Spandex

* Cotton

* Polyester
Naturel Fiber
Cotton
* Cellulosic fiber
* It is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, Under natural conditions, the
cotton bolls will tend to increase the dispersion of the seeds.
* “Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors
* Main textile products of the world
* Made into a wide range of wearing apparel

Cotton Advantages: Disadvantages:

* Durable
* Comfortable * Shrinks in hot water
* Absorbent * Wrinkles easily
* Good color retention * Weakened by perspiration and sun
* Dyes & prints well * Burns easily
* Washable * Affected by mildew
* Strong * Cotton clothes will be to fade after a few
* Drapes well years, particularly if left in direct
* Easy to handle and sew sunlight
* Inexpensive * Cotton is not a very weatherproof
* Soft fabric. If left outside it is also likely to
* Environmentally friendly be damaged by mold and mildew.
 Physical Properties of Cotton
* Cotton fiber is creamy white in color,
* Cotton fiber length varies from 1 cm 7,5 cm,
* The diameter is 6-25μm ,
* Density is between 1,50 to 1,55
* The absorption of moisture is 8.5% under standard conditions (20 ° C temperature and 65% humidity reagent),
Cotton easily absorbs The moisture from the air.
* Given the maximum amount of moisture is allowed in the Commerce 8.5%
* Cotton material absorbs 25-27% water under 100% reactive moisture,
* Elongation of the fiber is average 7-8%,
* There is no elastic properties. Return is 74% after 2% elongation and return is 45% after 5% elongation,
* As with all cellulosic fibers, Durability of cotton increases when wet. Resistance increase is around 30%
* Cotton material pulls water up to 70% of weight when wet.
Physical Properties of Cotton
Color White, creamy white, bluish white, yellowish white or
grey.
Textile Strength 3.5gm/den.
Elongation at break 5-10%.

Specific Gravity 1.54

Moisture Regain(MR%): Standard moisture regain is 8.5

Elastic Recovery It is inelastic and rigid fiber

Effect of Sunlight gradual loss of strength when cotton is exposed to

sunlight and the fiber turns yellow.
Effect of age It shows a small loss of strength when stored carefully

Effect of Heat cotton is severely damaged after few minutes at 240ºC

Man Made Synthetic Fibers
* Polyamides  Nylon ,
* Polyester  Terylene,Terene,Dacron
* Polyvinyl derivatives  Polyvinylchloride,Polyacrilonitrile,Polystyrene and Copolymers
* Polyolefins  Polyethylene,Polypropylene

Methods for to make man made Fibers

* Solution Spinning
-- Dry Spinning ( Spandex , PVC , Lycra, Cellulose Acetate )
-- Wet Spinning ( Viscose rayon, Acrylic, Aromatic Polyamides, PVA )

* Melt Spinning
-- Nylon, PET ( polyester ) ,Polypropylene
Production Process
 Synthetic fibers: the polymer forming the basic
material of the fiber, the chemical
agents, were obtained through synthesis to
convert it into synthetic fibers case
Called fibers

Polyester chips: Polyester yarn is a raw material, the

form of granules. Its chemical name is "polyethylene
terephthalate"

Texturizing process imparts

Filament yarn and chips * Permanent loop, curl or crimp to individual filament
* More opaque
* Have a different appearance or feel warmth
* More absorbent
* Non-pilling quality
* Greater durability
* Moisture absorbent
Fiber Cross-Sectional Images
Fiber Cross-Sectional Images
Synthetic Fiber
Polyester
Polyester is a category of polymers which contain the ester funtional group in their main
chain. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) melts at approximately 260ºC. Polyester fiber is
produced by melt spinning methods

Advantages: Disadvantages:
* Strong * Low absorbency
* Crisp, but soft hand * Static and pilling problems
* Resists stretching and shrinkage
* Washable or dry-cleanable
* Quick drying
*Resilient, resists wrinkles
* Abrasion resistant
* Resistant to most chemicals
* Colorfast
* Strong, durable
* Dyes well
Polyester Fiber : (Polyethyleneterephthalate)
(Polyethylene Naphthalate)
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer
composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid (FTC definition).
The polymer is produced by the reaction of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid or its derivatives. Fiber
forms produced are filament, staple, and tow. The process of production resembles that of nylon.
Polymerization is accomplished at a high temperature, using a vacuum by one of two methods.
(1) The glycol and a terephthalate ester react to form a polymer chain, releasing methanol;
(2) The glycol and terephthalic acid react directly to form the polymer with water as the by-product. As
with nylon, the filaments are spun in a melt-spinning process, then stretched several times their
original length, which orients the long chain molecules and gives the fiber strength.

Characteristics:
Polyester fibers have high strength and are resistant to shrinking and stretching. Fabrics are quick drying
and tend to have wrinkle resistance and crease retention, wet and dry. Polyester is used alone and in
blends. It has been one of the first fibers to be developed in fabrics with durable-press features.

End Uses:
Polyester is widely used in many types of apparel fabrics such as textured knits and wovens, durable-
press blend fabrics,shirtings, dress goods, rainwear, worsted-blend summer suitings, sleepwear,
underwear, bloused, and lingerie. It is also used extensively in floor coverings and for tire cord and other
industrial uses such as sewing thread. Polyester fiberfill is used in filled items such as quilted
jackets, comforters, pillows, furniture cushions, and sleeping bags.
Polyester melt: Polyester Yarn is the raw material. Formation of terephthalic
acid + ethylene glycol + is titanium dioxide.

Flat: plums of polyester (polymer) is passed to give way under pressure

several filters are composed of sand and orifice plate assembly.

Man-elephant (Man-made fiber): filament yarn, staple fiber,

and is a generic name such as monofilament fibers and yarns them.

Filament yarn (filament yarn) formed of one

or more elements It called filament yarn of synthetic
fiber.
polyester and cotton comparison
CORE SYSTEM
CORE SYSTEM

Core yarns are divided according to differences of feeding of Material.

Core yarn is consists of three categories,
1 - Elastic Core Yarn (elastic material such as Lycra )
2 - Semi - Rigid Core Yarn (materials such as Nylon , Poiester and Acrylic. )
3 - Rigid Core Yarn ( materials such as Metal and Aramid )

ELASTANE / Spandex / Lycra

An elastic fiber that is usually blended at low percentages ( between 2 % and 10 %

content) to achieve fabrics with strech properties. the higher the elastencontent is ,
more a fabric with strech and adapt to the wearer's body contours.

* Spandex or elastane or elastomeric fiber is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional
elasticity.
* The name "spandex" is an anagram of the word "expands". It is the preferred name in
North America; in continental Europe it is referred to by variants of "elastane",
ELASTANE-SPANDEX-LYCRA
* LYCRA was the first spandex fibre introduced into the clothing materials market – from
fashion ware to sports ware!
* Lycra is a commercial material specially designed to have special properties for a wide
variety of clothing articles.
* Lycra-Spandex polymer materials are strong fibres with elastic properties.

* The above diagram is an example of the molecular structure of 'Lycra-Spandex' type

molecules
* n = a very large number of repeating double 'molecular segments' in the polymer chain.
* x is the variable number of units in the 'elastic' molecular segment, this gives differing
degrees of 'stretchiness'.
* Therefore its molecules have a stretchy section that make it soft and rubbery, and a rigid
section that makes it tougher than rubber.
Spandex ( Lycra )

* Mono Filament yarn

* Developed in 1959 by DuPont
* Stretches over 500% without breaking

Advantages: Disadvantages:
* Light weight,Comfortable,Breathable * Whites yellow with age
* Retains original shape * Heat sensitive
* Abrasion Resistant * Harmed by chlorine bleach
* Stronger than rubber * Nonabsorbent
* Soft, smooth, supple
* Resists body oils, perspiration, lotions, detergents
* No static or pilling
* It is dries quickly,Moisture wicking and easy to dye
* Blocks ultraviolet rays
* Can be streched over 500 % without breaking
* Able to be streched repetitively and recover original length
Spandex ( Lycra ) Denim Yarns:
Core-spun yarns are produced conventionally
on ring-spinning machines by introducing a
spandex filament at the back of the front
drafting roll of the machine. The drafted cotton
fibers twist around the spandex core to
produce an elastic ring-spun type yarn.
Physical Properties of Spandex (Lycra )
Tenacity 0.7 gm/den
Density: 1.21-1.35 gm/cc
Elongation at break 400-700%
Elasticity Excellent
Moisture Regain(MR%) 0.6% - 1.2 %
Resiliency Very Good
Ability to protest friction Excellent
Color White or near white
Ability to protest heat Not good
Lusture Less bright
Cross section Extruded from circular orifices
Strength Low Strength
Heat Over 300 F
Absorbency Very low absorbency
Yarn Count Range / Draft Range / Lycra Dtex
When Lycra dtex change, LYCRA percentage is changing

* for good covering

Which yarn Count ?
Which Lycra dtex ?
 Spandex to be considered before use

* Keep the core filament spools at 28 degree centigrade +/- 3 degree

* Centigrade and at 65% +/- RH + 5% RH.
* The life of the core filament should not exceed 3 months from the date of manufacturing.
Otherwise it will lead to Spandex breakage in Spinning & Stretch/Width Variation will come
in fabric.
* Avoid excess stock of Spandex. Place order for not more than the requirement of 4 to 6
weeks.
* Select the correct type of Spandex from its supplier.
Example: Creora has two types namely H-100 and H-350. While using H-350 Spandex
breakage is lower because this type is prepared for Core Yarn.
* As for as possible, don’t touch the core filament while handling it in spool form.
* Careful handling and storage of core filament material is to be ensured to prevent
damages.
 T400
Elastomultiester is mainly used in woven fabrics, usually on weft, in a quantity higher than
20 % by weight. It is used as an alternative to Elastane to give elastic properties to the final
product.
Elastomultiester’s main characteristic is that it is a multicomponent fibre; in fact it is made by a
combination of different polymers and not by a single one. Nowadays the chemical
composition of available commercial elastomultiester (T400), independently from its linear
density, is 40 % polyester (3-GT type) and 60 % polyester (2-GT type). Two different polyesters
are joined together within each fibre. When exposed to heat, each component shrinks to a
different degree, producing a smooth and regular crimp that is the cause of the elastic
properties shown by the fibre.
The T400 fiber has a unique, snowman-like cross-section that can improve fabric breathability
and moisture management.
T400 fiber is encased with high grade cotton rendering a unique fiber for a lasting fit.
T400 fiber allows us to improve the performance of cotton fabrics to enhance comfort, shape
retention, and durability.

Fiber Cross-section
 The elastomultiester (T400) is an advanced
double fibre originally developed for jeans. It
gently stretches and recovers in every direction
and creates a premium garment that retains its
fit, and moves with the user.

T400 fiber allows us to improve the performance of cotton fabrics to enhance comfort,
shape retention, and durability.
T400 fiber performance benefits include:
* Improved moisture management
* Outstanding comfort, stretch and recovery in all directions
* Better shape retention
* Higher durability to abrasion
* Wrinkle resistance
* Natural touch and appearance when used as a core-spun yarn
T400 fiber to provide better performance and style as compared to ordinary 100% cotton
denim fabrics and jeans.

Features:

* Twice as strong in weft as 100% cotton denim

* Freedom of movement
* High abrasion resistance
* Excellent garment Durability
* Long lasting fit
* Comfortable to wear
* Improve customer satisfaction
* Higher tear and tensile strength
 SPANDEX & FILAMEN
DuoCore / Mdraft / (Lycra + T400 )
Yarn and fabric with high elasticity but low recovering capability and limited dimensional
stability.
Difficulty to apply certain aggressive finishing processes (chemical, physical or mechanical).
Elastic Core yarns are suitable to work as weft but they can’t be used as warp

Combination of 2 filaments with differentiate elastic properties as a core in a single Core

Spun yarn.
Each filament is fed with its own pre draft and they are mixing just before its insertion in the
ring frame.
As they have different elasticity, filament with lower elasticity blocks the one with higher,
helping fabric recovering and avoiding its growth.

The trend in denim segment is clearly pointing to a very important growth of high elastic
performances fabrics, with great recovering and dimensional stability.

DuoCore is the way to get the yarns required to produce these high performance fabrics.
 Lycra + T400 \ Duo Core

DuoCore Yarn&Fabric
Elasthan filament
HIGH ELASTICITY
(HIGH STRETCH)
+ Semi elastic filament
HIGH RECOVERING
(HIGH STABILITY) = HIGH ELASTICITY
HIGH RECOVERING
LOW SHRINKAGE (HIGH STABILITY)
LOW SHRINKAGE
(HIGH STRETCH)

SPANDEX + FILAMENT ( T400 or PES ) = Dual Core / fabric

High Strech + High Recovery, Low Shrinkage = High Strech,High Recovery,Low Shrinkage

LYCRA + T400 + COTTON = CORE SPUN YARN

Three critical performance criteria are:

Fabric Elongation -- for comfort and freedom of movement; soft stretch and high
extension; low pressure against the body, making it easy to move with minimal
pressure changes during wear.

Fabric Growth -- to ensure fabrics have adequate and quick recovery power from
deformation during wear, thus maintaining the garments’ original shape and fit.

Fabric Shrinkage -- to prevent the shrinkage of garments during washing or dry

cleaning, thus maintaining size and shape of the original garments.
Features of dualCore ( Spandex+Filament ) fabrics:
* High Stretch
* High Recovery
* Low growth – great shape retention
* Excellent dimensional stability
* Low shrinkage
* Custom-like shape
* Wider window of fit
* Slender looks
* Authentic denim look and feel

Why do the end consumers prefer dualcore Fabrics?

* Keeps its shape
* Has freedom of movement
* Looks good on me
* Is comfortable
* Is washable without losing its properties
* Fits well
* Is fashionable
* Is high quality
* Doesn't shrink
* Is durable soft
Characteristic of Fabrics
 LYCRA ELASTANE and T400 DTEX VALUE IN YARN COUNT RANGE
k
LYCRA ELASTANE and T400 % VALUE IN GARMENT TYPE

Yarn Count Range : Ne 6 - 100

Lycra Range : 11 - 156 Dtex
T400 Range : 22 - 330 Dtex
Lycra T400 Yarn
Dtex Draft range Dtex Draft Range Count
11 1,8 - 2,2 22 Ne 60 - 100
22 2 - 2,5 33 Ne 40 - 60
33 2,2 - 2,8 33 or 55 Ne 30 - 60
1,01 - 1,08
33 or 44 3,2 - 3,8 55 or 83 Ne 20 - 40
44 or 78 3,5 - 3,8 83 Ne 10 - 20
156 3,7 - 4 165 Ne 6

Garment Lycra Elastane Content T 400 Fiber Content

Jeans / Pants 2 to 7% 8 - 35%
Woven shirts 2 to 7% 8 - 35%
Knit Shirts 4 to 10% 15- 25 %
Swimwear 18 to 22% 45 – 50 %
Underwear 2 to 5 % 15 – 20%

Important Note :
The above data may vary according to customer requirements.
 DualCore Fabric Quality Recommendations
Fabric Elongation For Weft Stretch
Fabric Elongation >30 %

For Bi-Stretch Fabrics

In Warp direction > 20 %
In weft direction > 25 %

Fabric Growth =<6 % max

Fabric Wash Shrinkage
(After 3 wash – not cumulative ) <3%

* Lycra elastane fiber dtex is recommended 55 dtex or less for knits and wovens
* T400 (Elastomultiester) fiber for wovens is recommended 78 dtex or less
* Max. Fabric weight 120 g/m^2 for Knits and 90 g/m^2 for Wovens
Corespun yarn for lycra and DualCore fabrics can be made
in a variety of ways:
Corespun Yarns
Lcyra + T400 fiber are fed into the core spun machine together with different drafts. At the
same time , they are covered and twisted with cotton
Airjet Covered Yarns / Intermingled
Lcyra + T400 fiber are interlaced together via air covering
the air covered fiber is then covered by cotton in corespinning

Covered Yarns
Lycra +T400 fiber are twisted together and then it is covered by cotton in corespinning

Intermingled Yarn Covered Yarn Corespun yarn

 Lcyra + T400 fiber are fed into the
core spun machine together with
different drafts

Intermingled Lcyra + T400 fiber are interlaced

together via air covering
Cotton with Lycra ,98% cotton+2 %Lycra : 25 % stretch

Cotton with T400 ,77% cotton+23 % T400 : 20 % stretch

The Stretch tests ;

The Recovery test = Min 75
Komfort stretch = 12-18%
Stretch = 20-25%
The Growth test ;
Super stretch => 30%
Power stretch = +> 40%
M&S ----- max 7
Levis ----- max 9
As a manufacturer -------- max. 5
Strech

Shrinkage Growth

Changing one of the parameter of fabric, effects the others

Example of a DuoCore fabric

Fabric with 9% T400, 1% LYCRA and 90% cotton. It has a minimum growth and it is
possible to apply very aggressive finishing processes (abrasion, holes) without affecting
its elasticity because of durability of T400.
Weft Cotton Ne16 /
75D T400 /
40D LYCRA
Warp Ne14
Fabric counts (warp x weft) 109 x 58
Fabric weight (Oz/Yd²) 10.533
Fabric stretch (weft) (%) 27.8
Fabric growth (weft) (%) 1.6
It is not easy to produce high quality, high stretch fabrics using conventional methods:

– Cotton/elastane fabrics can have high stretch, but it is difficult to achieve low growth.
– Fabrics with elasterell-p have very good recovery and low shrinkage, but it is not easy to obtain high stretch levels.
– Polyester/elastane fabrics can have a synthetic look and hand.
– Garments can lose their shape during wear resulting in consumer dissatisfaction.

How important to you are these characteristics in a pair of denim jeans?

* Keeps its shape

* Has freedom of movement
* Is flattering
* Is easy to care for
* Looks good on me
* Is comfortable
* Is washable
* Fits well
* Is fashionable
* Has a custom-like fit
* Is high quality
* Doesn't shrink
* Is a good value
* Is durableIs soft
 The benefits of T400 CSY in denim

Denim Fabrics Comparison

• 100% nature fiber look and feel; Fabric A Fabric B Fabric D

• Very strong chemical resistance, 20'cotton+150 300D T400 12'cotton/55D

including extreme CL bleach, stone wash, Weft Yarn D T400 CSY Filament Lycra CSY
sand blast, laser treatments; Fabric Stretch % 19.6 33.6 31.8
Fabric Growth % 2.6 2.4 6.6
• Surface is very smooth;
Fabric Shrinkage % 0 5 5
• Much improved durability, e.g.
tensile, tear, abrasion resistance; Finished Width inch 56.5 53 54

• Very Low wash shrinkage and Weight OZ/Y^2 11.6 11.8 13.2
shrinkage variation; Cotton feeling ***** ** ****
Fabric Sell Price
• Stable and wide fabric width; $/Yard 3.47 3.79 3.09
• Much soft and high air permeability.

48
CORE SYSTEM SOLUTIONS
ON RING FRAME
Spandex (Lycra) System on RSM

Separator

Elasten
Unwinding Roller

Deflection Roller
Roving
Stoper

Aluminium
Profile

Lycra Roller Arm

Input
Condenser
Roving Lycra Roller
Duo Core / Mdraft Systems on RSM
T400

Feed
Roller

Front Roller

Intermingled System on RSM

Vertical Outside System on RSM

Horizental Outside System on RSM

Vertical Outside System on RSM
Core spun yarn and filament yarns are the future of the textile industry because of
their versatility and durability, making them ideal raw materials.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Mithat ÖZTEKİN
Electronic Eng. (Ms)