Rizal in France and Germany

Reported by: Jullie A. Surilla and Mylene S. Dabandan

BSED 2B

Rizal at Paris…
When Rizal obtained his degree in Medicine and Philosophy and Literature at the Universidad
Central de Madrid, he toured in several countries in Europe. In 1885, he moved to Paris for the
following reasons: to develop his French language and to acquire training in ophthalmology. On his
way to Paris, he stopped in Barcelona to visit his friend Maximo Viola, a medical student from a rich
family in San Miguel, Bulacan. Rizal worked as assistant to Dr. Louis de Wecker for four months
from November 1885 to February 1886, and he learned as fast as he could the technique of eye
operations. During that time, Dr. de Wecker was a well-known ophthalmologist and invented
scissors for cutting the iris during eye surgery that were still in use in the 1960’s. Rizal worked in Dr.
de Wecker’s clinic which was a large mansion composed of 30 beds and can accommodate 100
patients. They have 50 to 100 patients daily. Some of the patients came from all over Europe. De
Wecker’s clinic was composed of doctors from all over the world: one Italian, one Greek, one
Austrian, one North American, three South Americans, two Spaniards, four French, and one German.
Rizal being an assistant was considered “refined, friendly, and industrious with high esteem.”
After working, Rizal learned different languages such as French, German, Polish, and Greek.
At the studio of Juan Luna, he tried to improve his painting he posed as a model in several of Luna’s
paintings, including as an Egyptian priest in Death of Cleopatra and as Sikatuna in The blood compact,
with Trinidad Pardo de Tavera posing as Legaspi.
He also visited several places: the Champs Elysees, Colonne Vendome, the Opera House, Place
de la Concorde, the Church of Magdalene, Notre Dame Church (Nuestra Senora de Paris), Laennec
Hospital, Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Kardin d’ Acclimation, Jardin de Plantes, Palace of
Versailles, the Pantheon of Hotel de Cluny, and other places of interest.
On the streets, Rizal observed the cleanliness in the surroundings. In the public gardens and
promenades, men take a stroll or study while some women sit on the benches under the trees while
the children play or run around.
Rizal’s life in Paris was mostly devoted to his intellectual advancement either in his
professions, finishing his novel, travelling, learning different cultures, or developing his talent in
painting.
In spite of the support of Dr. Wecker, Rizal left Paris to learn more about eye specialization.
Before leaving the city, Rizal had already completed one-fourth of his novel, Noli Me Tangere.

At Heidelberg…
Rizal arrived in Heidelberg in 1886. He stayed there for six months (February 3- August 9,
1886) and temporarily lived in a four-story house at No. 16 Karlstrasse, approximately 300 meters
away from the University of Heidelberg, from February 3 to February 17, 1886.
At the boarding house of a landlady named Nebel, he paid 28 duros a month for lodging,
meals, and light which was more than what he expected but far less than what he paid in Paris. He
found the German life not disagreeable, because he ate potatoes in the morning and potatoes in the
evening. At night, the meal was potatoes and cold meat with tea. In order to save his money, he ate
the restaurants during the day and night and took only his dinner in the boarding house which was a
cup of tea and bread and butter.
After 15 days, he moved to an apartment at Ludwig Platz, No. 12 Grabengasse, presently
known as Universitatstrasse. To enhance his knowledge in ophthalmology, he worked as an assistant
in the eye clinic of Dr. Otto Becker located at the Heidelberg University at No. 20 Bergheim Strasse.
Dr. Becker founded the University in 1875 and served as a director of the Univer (Clinic of Eye
Diseases). As an assistant in the eye clinic, Rizal attended lectures in ophthalmology given by Dr.
Beker during the summer semester of 1886. Some of his seminars were: “Augen Klinic,” (Eye Clinic)
and “Repetitorium der Augenheilkunde” (Refresher Ophthalmology). Dr. Becker stated that “Dr. Jose
Rizal has been recognized as among the “important personalities” who heard lectures at the
Heidelberg University.
In his letter to his parents and sisters, dated February 24, 1886, from Heidelberg, Karlstrasse
Rizal described his experiences as an assistant in the eye clinic: in Germany, 24,000 people couldn’t go
to eye clinics due to the lack of ophthalmologists unlike in Paris, where there were ophthalmologists
for 2 million people. Rizal learned the basic principles in ophthalmology by observing mistakes in the
diagnosis through his professors.
Rizal had a limited fund for attending seminars, to buy ophthalmic books, equipment, and
ophthalmological training. According to De Ocampo Geminiano (1961), despite the insufficient
funds, his diligence and discipline led Rizal to become a successful physician.
During his stay in Heidelberg, Rizal played chess, became a member of Chess Players Club in
the University. When Rizal ran out of money, Juan Luna would lend him until he received his
allowance from the Philippines.
Rizal was impressed with the German way of life, which he described as very methodical and
disciplined. He found people walking along the streets friendly and respectful to greet one another
by raising their hats fully and throwing their caps forward. It was also an obligation for Germans to
introduce their names in social gatherings.
Rizal was also fascinated with the castles and beautiful spring flowers of Heidelberg, which
reminded him of the flowers at the garden of his home in Calamba. His homesickness then prodded
him to write a beautiful poem entitled “To the Flowers of Heidelberg.” He also wrote a letter to his
younger sister, Trinidad, where he described the characteristics of German girls.
In his letter, he stated that, “At your age, the German women appear as if they were 20 or 24
years in their habits and mannerism. A German woman is serious, studios and diligent. They do not
care so much for their dresses or jewels. They manage to comb their hair beautifully. They are
homebred and learn how to cook and show appreciation for music and design.” He regretted that
Filipina women showed more interest in dresses than how much they were supposed to learn.
However, he praised the devotion and hospitality of the Filipino women especially in the provinces
who were not affected by sophistication. He also expressed his optimism that the Filipino women
could command respect of all men if they would show intellectual growth and civic-mindedness. In
concluding remarks. He advised his sister, Trinidad: “Now that you are still young, you should strive
to read and learn. You must not allow yourself to be conquered by indolence because it costs so little
to cast it off”

At Wilhelmsfeld…
To relieve himself further of homesickness, Rizal spent summer at Wilhelmfeld for three
months at the residence of Rev. Karl Ulmer, whom Rizal met one in the woods with his (the pastor’s)
wife, daughter Eta, and son Friedrich. Wilhelmsfeld is located at the top of the hill about 13
kilometres North of Heidelberg. To get there in Rizals time, one walk or about three hours from the
university center to the edge of Neckar River, across a bridge and through the beautiful Odenwald
forest. Rizal boarded in a room located on the second floor of Ullmer’s vicarage. He found the place
peaceful and quite. Thus, Rizal almost completed the concluding chapters of his novel Noli Me
Tangere in Wilhelmsfeld.
Rizal admired the way the two Germans tolerated and respected each other’s religion. After
thorough discussion between Catholicism and Protestantism, they mutually concluded that religion
should be a reason to become an enemy instead they were doing their duties because of their faith in
God and to bring people closer to one another in the spirit of brotherhood.
During his stay in Wilhelmsfeld, Rizal developed his talent in sketching and learned to speak
well in German. In June 1886, Rizal left Wilhelmsfeld for Heidelberg.

Leipzig
Rizal attended lectures on history and psychology at the University of Leipzig. He became a
friend of Professor Friedrich Ratzel, a famous German historian, and of Hans Meyer, a German
anthropologist. Dr. Hans Meyer was the author of one of the largest encyclopedic dictionaries of
Germany and chief of the Bibliographical Institute.
Professor Ratzel describes Dr. Jose Rizal in the following manner: “Rizal has acquired the
wisdom of three continents that led him to develop his intellectual ability that could help his
countrymen.”
Also in Leipzig, he became a proofreader for a publishing company. On October 12, 1886, Rizal
translated Schiller’s William Tell from German to Tagalog so that the Filipinos would know the story of
the champion of Swiss independence. He also translated five fairy tales written by Hans Cristian
Andersen, including The Ugly Duckling. He sent a copy of the translation to his brother and was
intended to be read by his fellowmen with the hope that they would benefit from the story.
Rizal found Leipzig a quiet place, and a good place to stay. In addition, he found everything
cheaper than anywhere else in Europe.

Berlin
On November 1, 1886, Rizal arrived in Berlin and stayed at the Central hotel. Rizal’s stay in
Berlin was one of his best experiences. He was there for several reasons: to master the German
language; to develop his learning in humanities, history and languages; to study the ethnography of
Germany; to specialize in ophthalmology; to be a part of different organizations with German
scholars and scientists; and to publish Noli Me Tangere, his novel.
 Rizal became a member of Geographic and Ethnographic Association. He was offered
membership on condition the he present an original research on any subject. The first work that he
presented was the Treatise on Tagalog verse. This work received great praise from the members of the
association. He also developed his talent as a linguist, studying and mastering several languages.
He also learned advanced ophthalmology as an assistant in different clinics and attended
conferences.
Rizal led a frugal life in Berlin that cause him to suffer from malnutrition. He had a great love
for gymnastics that he wanted to become the strongest man at one of the local gymnasiums. He tried
his best lifting weights under an unaccustomed diet. His excessive studying and buying of books also
contributed to his bad physical state.
It was in Berlin where Rizal pawned his sister’s diamond ring which his friend Dr. Maximo
Viola recently delivered to him from Paris. Dr. Maximo Viola also lent Rizal enough money for the
printing of Noli Me Tangere. Rizal finished the book on February 21, 1887 and was printed on
February 21, 1887. The first copy was given to Maximo Viola, who had already been gifted with the
proofs of the book and Rizal’s pen.
After Noli’s publication, Rizal and Viola embarked on a grand tour of Europe and visited
museums, botanical gardens, Jewish synagogues, the Victory Column, a tower built with a cannon
captured in the Franco-Prussian War, libraries, windmills, and the symbol of German justice,
theaters, and other cultural places. Rizal also spent time touring the countryside around Berlin,
keenly observing the customs, dresses, homes, and occupations of the Germans.
Afterwards, Rizal decided to return to the Philippines after a five-year absence. But Dr.
Maximo Viola tried to discourage him from returning home, worried that his life would be in danger
due to the circulation of Noli Me Tangere. But Rizal wanted to operate his mother’s eyes. He left Berlin
by train on May 11, 1887, making a stop at Dresden to visit important places.

Dresden
Rizal and Viola went to the regional floral exposition in Dresden, and visited Dr. Adolph
Meyer, director of the Dresden Museum. They also went to the Museum of Art, where they viewed
Prometheus Bound by Flemish painter Peter Paul Rubens. Finally, they sailed for Leitmeritz, Bohemia
where, for the first time, Rizal met Ferdinand Blumentritt, an Austrian scholar, director of the
Athenaeum of Leitmeritz in Bohemia, part of Austro-Hungarian Empire. Blumentritt sent Rizal his
photographs so Rizal could recognize him. When they meet, they each other in German, and
Blumentritt helped Rizal and Viola get a room and Hotel Krebbs, after which he brought them to his
home and introduced them to his wife and family.
Blumentritt was one of the first European academics to specialize in Philippine studies. His
wife Rosa was a kitchen genius and their three kids namely: Dolores, Conrado, and Fritz Alfonso
became very fond of the Filipinos. Rizal and Viola toured around the city and were introduced to
beer. During Rizal’s three-day visit, Blumentritt’s family served Filipino food which surprised Rizal,
such as adobo, lechon, lumpia, pancit, kare-kare, paella, and other Filipino dishes.
Blumentritt called Rizal not only “the greatest Filipino” but also “the greatest of the Malayan
race.” Their friendship started when Rizal sent Blumentritt a book, Aritmetica, which was being used
in the Philippines then. In addition, Blumentritt prepared a map of Mindanao and a treatise of the
ethnography of the island which he sent Rizal for corrections. He also made studies on different
subjects such as the Tiruray and Tagalog language. Through the suggestion of Blumentritt, Rizal
visited the Imperial Library of Berlin where he read and copied the rare books on anthropology and
ethnography. He later translated Waitz-Gerland’s Ethnografia y Antropologia de los Pueblos Primitivos in
Tagalog.

Prague
After Dresden, Rizal and Viola went to the historic city of Prague, where they visited Dr.
Willkomn, a professor of National History, upon the recommendation of Dr. Blumentritt. They also
visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer; the Museum of National History; the
Bacteriological Laboratories; and the famous cave where San Juan Nepomuceno was imprisoned.

Vienna
On May 20, 1887, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna. They stayed at Hotel
Metropole and visited many interesting places in the city, including churches, museums, art galleries,
and public parks.

Lintz
In Lintz, Rizal and Viola rented a boat to see the Danube River. During the trip, Rizal observed
the river, the barges loaded with products, and the boats with families living on them.

Rheinfall
Rizal and Viola then went to Munich to taste its beer, considered the best in Germany then.
They also visited Ulm Cathedral, the tallest building in Germany at the time, saw the Rin Waterfalls
which was widely regarded as the most beautiful in Europe.

Geneva
Rizal and Viola stayed in Geneva, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. While they
crossed Leman Lake, Rizal reminisced his childhood days in Calamba. However, upon reaching city,
Rizal received news from his friend in Madridabout the deplorable conditions of the primitive
Igorots who were exhibited in the Madrid Exposition. The Igorots’ scanty clothing had become an
object of mockery by the Spanish press and people. This made Rizal very sad, resenting the
degradation of his fellow Filipinos in the hands of the Spaniards.

Italy
On June 23, 1887, Rizal and Viola bade goodbye to each other. Dr. Viola went back to
Barcelona while Rizal went to Italy and visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and Florence. He also visited
Rome and the Vatican. He explored St. Peter’s Basilica and beheld the rare works of art, the vast St,
Peter’s Square, and the colourful papal guards. After a week of wonderful travels in Rome, he
prepared to return to the Philippines, having already written to his father that he was coming home.