Professional Documents
Culture Documents
My reflection in RAC
Air conditioners have circulation systems designed to project cool air away
from the units while refrigeration units have circulation systems designed to
retain coolant in a confined space. Refrigeration systems circulate cool liquids
and gases through a series of tubes and vents. Cool air from within a refrigerator
is sucked into a compressor that recycles the gas through the tubes. Air
conditioners, while also employing tubes in the coolant system, have fans for the
dispersal of air. Unlike refrigeration systems, which keep gases contained to a
pre-determined space, air conditioning system.
The air conditioning is that branch of engineering science which deals with
the study of conditioning of air i.e. supplying and maintaining desirable internal
atmospheric condition for human comfort, irrespective of external condition. This
subject, in its broad sense, also deals with the conditioning of air for industrial
purpose, food processing, storage of food and other materials.
In general, heat transfer describes the flow of heat (thermal energy) due to
temperature differences and the subsequent temperature distribution and
changes.
There are three modes of heat transfer between the two bodies:
conduction, convection and radiation.
Convection: The transfer of heat between the solid surface and the liquid
is called as convection heat transfer. Let us considering a vessel of water being
heated, in this case heating of water due to transfer of heat from the vessel is
convection heat transfer.
The most common refrigerants used for air conditioning over the years include:
The Zeroth Law of Thermodynamics states that if two bodies are each in
thermal equilibrium with some third body, then they are also in equilibrium with
each other. Thermal equilibrium means that when two bodies are brought into
contact with each other and separated by a barrier that is permeable to heat,
there will be no transfer of heat from one to the other.
Rochellyn T. Olana
My reflection in RAC
Principles of Refrigeration Liquids absorb heat when changed from liquid to gas
give off heat when changed from gas to liquid.
Heat can be transferred from one body to another or between a body and
the environment by three different means: conduction, convection and radiation.
Conduction is the transfer of energy through a solid material. Conduction
between bodies occurs when they are in direct contact, and molecules transfer
their energy across the interfacet
Convection is the transfer of heat to or from a fluid medium. Molecules in a
gas or liquid in contact with a solid body transmit or absorb heat to or from that
body and then move away, allowing other molecules to move into place and
repeat the process. Efficiency can be improved by increasing the surface area to
be heated or cooled, as with a radiator, and by forcing the fluid to move over the
surface, as with a fan.
The Third Law states that the entropy of a pure crystal at absolute zero is
zero. As explained above, entropy is sometimes called "waste energy," i.e.,
energy that is unable to do work, and since there is no heat energy whatsoever
at absolute zero, there can be no waste energy. Entropy is also a measure of the
disorder in a system, and while a perfect crystal is by definition perfectly ordered,
any positive value of temperature means there is motion within the crystal, which
causes disorder. For these reasons, there can be no physical system with lower
entropy, so entropy always has a positive value.
The science of thermodynamics has been developed over centuries, and its
principles apply to nearly every device ever invented. Its importance in modern
technology cannot be overstated.
Evaporator: This is the part of the refrigeration system that is doing the actual
cooling. Because its function is to absorb heat into the refrigeration system (from
where you don't want it), the evaporator is placed in the area to be cooled. The
refrigerant is let into and measured by a flow control device, and eventually
released to the compressor. The evaporator consists of finned tubes, which
absorbs heat from the air blown through a coil by a fan. Fins and tubes are made
of metals with high thermal conductivity to maximize heat transfer. The
refrigerant vaporizes from the heat it absorbs heat in the evaporator.
Flow control device (expansion valve): This controls the flow of the liquid
refrigerant into the evaporator. Control devices usually are thermostatic, meaning
that they are responsive to the temperature of the refrigerant.
Darwisa S. Aharad
This subject made me realized lot of things in life that’s we should not
settle for less, explore and discover new learning that is beyond your
imagination. This subject let me feel that’s Aircon and ref is not just a simple
appliances. Its more fun discovering core parts of this appliance and how its
functions.
I’ve learned that there are 4 major part in refrigeration system. Condenser
Condensation changes gas to a liquid form. Its main purpose is to liquefy the
refrigerant gas sucked by the compressor from the evaporator. As condensation
begins, the heat will flow from the condenser into the air, only if the condensation
temperature is higher than that of the atmosphere. The high-pressure vapour in
the condenser will be cooled to become a liquid refrigerant again, this time with a
little heat. The liquid refrigerant will then flow from the condenser to a liquid line.
Compressor
The compressor’s use is to pull the low-temperature and low-pressure vapour
from the evaporator, through a suction line. Once the vapour is drawn, it will be
compressed. This will cause the vapour’s temperature to rise. Its main function is
to transform a low-temperature vapour in to a high-temperature vapour, to
increase pressure. Vapour is released from the compressor into a discharge line.
Evaporator
An evaporator is used to turn any liquid material into gas. In this process,
heat is absorbed. The evaporator transfers heat from the refrigerated space into
a heat pump through a liquid refrigerant, which boils in the evaporator at a low-
pressure. In achieving heat transfer, the liquid refrigerant should be lower than
the goods being cooled. After the transfer, liquid refrigerant is drawn by the
compressor from the evaporator through a suction line. Liquid refrigerant will be
in vapour form upon leaving the evaporator coil. Expansion Valve
Commonly placed before the evaporator and at the end of the liquid line, the
expansion valve is reached by the liquid refrigerant after it has been condensed.
Reducing the pressure of the refrigerant, its temperature will decrease to a level
below its atmosphere. This liquid will then be pumped into the evaporator.
I’ve learned that there are 3 Law of thermodynamics which are: The first
law of thermodynamics, also known as Law of Conservation of Energy,
states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed; energy can only
be transferred or changed from one form to another. For example, turning
on a light would seem to produce energy; however, it is electrical energy
that is converted. his law says that there are two kinds of processes, heat
and work, that can lead to a change in the internal energy of a system.
Since both heat and work can be measured and quantified, this is the
same as saying that any change in the energy of a system must result in a
corresponding change in the energy of the surroundings outside the
system. In other words, energy cannot be created or destroyed. If heat
flows into a system or the surroundings do work on it, the internal energy
increases and the sign of q and w are positive. Conversely, heat flow out
of the system or work done by the system (on the surroundings) will be at
the expense of the internal energy, and q and w will therefore be negative.
The second law of thermodynamics says that the entropy of any isolated
system always increases. Isolated systems spontaneously evolve towards
thermal equilibrium—the state of maximum entropy of the system. More
simply put: the entropy of the universe (the ultimate isolated system) only
increases and never decreases. A simple way to think of the second law
of thermodynamics is that a room, if not cleaned and tidied, will invariably
become more messy and disorderly with time – regardless of how careful
one is to keep it clean. When the room is cleaned, its entropy decreases,
but the effort to clean it has resulted in an increase in entropy outside the
room that exceeds the entropy lost. The third law of thermodynamics
states that the entropy of a system approaches a constant value as the
temperature approaches absolute zero. The entropy of a system at
absolute zero is typically zero, and in all cases is determined only by the
number of different ground states it has. Specifically, the entropy of a pure
crystalline substance (perfect order) at absolute zero temperature is zero.
This statement holds true if the perfect crystal has only one state with
minimum energy.
These are refrigerants that contain Chlorine, Fluorine and Carbon. They were
developed in the 1930's and were used in a variety of industrial, commercial, household
and automotive applications. They were ideal for commercial, household, and
automotive use due to the fact that they are non-toxic, non-flammable, and non-reactive
with other chemical compounds.
Hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs)
These are refrigerants that contain Hydrogen, Chlorine, Fluorine, and Carbon. They
have only about 10% of the ozone depleting potential as CFCs. They are energy-
efficient, low-in-toxicity, cost effective and can be used safely.
Hydrofluorocarbons (HFC's).
These are refrigerants containing Hydrogen, Fluorine, and Carbon. Therefore they do
not contain any ozone depleting Chlorine. Besides containing no ozone depleting
elements they usually have an even lower global warming potential than HCFCs.
The Natural gas which are the Air, H2o, and CO2.
My dreesmaking reflection
What does this have to do with sewing? Well, it started me wondering how many of us
sewers are introverts and how we can use our personality type, whether quiet or
outgoing, to enjoy our sewing time more.
I know that I can get totally absorbed in a sewing project and be totally content working
by myself for hours on end. I also tend to start on one project and stick with it until it is
finished. I very rarely have simultaneous sewing projects going on. These are typical
work habits of an introvert.
(I don’t want to speak on behalf of extroverted sewers to say what kind of work habits
they have. If you are an extrovert, please feel welcome to comment about how being an
extrovert affects your sewing hobby.)
Taking the time to think about my introverted side has made me realize that some of my
favorite sewing projects are ones where I really took my time to plan the project out and
didn’t take any shortcuts on the construction. I was absorbed in and enjoyed the whole
process of sewing, rather than just wanting to skip ahead to the finished product.
As I move toward the beginning of a new school year and have less time to devote to
my hobbies, I want to remember what I’ve learned about myself from reading this book.
First of all, I need to give myself the time and space to sew. I need a quiet hobby that
recharges me after a day or week of teaching teenagers because teaching, while I enjoy
it because of how much I value education and its power to transform lives, uses all of
my energy since I have to exude more and be more outgoing than I am naturally
inclined to be. There’s not a lot of quiet, individual work time during a typical school day!
Secondly, I ought to plan out my sewing projects and sewing time so that I can enjoy
the process fully without feeling like I have to accomplish a project in a certain time
frame. I could maximize my enjoyment if I have all the supplies I need ready and waiting
for when I have some sewing time. Doing my preparation for the next couple projects I
have in mind will allow me to simply sit down and allow myself to become absorbed in
the sound of my sewing machine.
Are you an introverted or extroverted sewer? How do you see your personality type
come out in your sewing?
So far I’ve sown skirt, a t-shirt and a pajam. It is taking me longer than I had expected,
even though it is my first time sewing. I was planning on using a machine my friend has,
but because she is away for the easter break, I have to sew it by hand. On the other
hand, taking longer has meant that while I’m doing stuff, I am constantly reflecting and
re-evaluating what I’m doing.
Initially I was thinking I was going to create a set of clothes, all sewn in different parts,
for people to try on, but I progress, I’ve realised that I only have to sew the essential,
trying to communicate the same message, but in a simpler form. I’m really enjoying this
process. Starting from my initial idea, then working physically with the materials, and
then possibly turning it into a film, is in my opinion, a very strong process where I
consider all the steps.
Even though everything is going great, I still think I could have achieved so much more
if I had planned everything in advance. I haven’t been very efficient. By this I mean, for
example, that I could have all the materials prepared to be sewn, instead of doing one,
waiting to buy one, etc… and also that I could have planned out before what exactly I
am going to do. These are reasons why I am taking longer.
What I feel I’ve been doing good is that I’ve continued asking people for feedback. The
idea started off with a talk with my tutors, and as I’m woking I’ve been talking to my
friends about what they think. They agree that it is a very strong idea, if it gets
communicated well. They have also given me suggestions of where to go next, or how
to film it. If it weren’t for the feedback, I wouldn’t have received any advice, and my
ideas would be stuck.
So far I’m really enjoying this stage of my final piece and I regret not doing any lino
printing or printing on clothes, because I could communicate so much more if I work on
the material.
Looking through my flatmates magazines on fashion, has definitively influenced me. It
has made me think more of the material and how you can turn it into something that
expresses a feeling or emotion. I feel that next time I work with similar materials again, I
will try using clothes as a message transmitter.
Now I’m considering on asking people to put on the sewn clothes, and I’ll film
them to everyday things. I realised I was going to face a problem when filming, as if I
ask people to put on a pajama, so that they can’t see anything, and then they do stuff,
people might think I’m making fun of blind people. I decided that if I do a live
commentary of how the person is feeling like, it would make the piece stronger as the
viewer can understand what is going on behind. No matter how accurately the seams
are stitched or how fine the hem finish, pressing the piece as you work is the key to
professional-looking results. Pressing requires a different technique from ironing. It is
done lightly, with just the tip of the iron being used on specific area. Accurate pressing is
crucial, while pressing markings such as tucks and pleats before stitching will make the
piece much easier to work.
Sewing is all about stitches, which are the result of taking a length of thread on a
needle through two or more layers of a material to join them. Stitches can be decorative
or invisible; they can be made by hand or by a sewing machine. Seams are rows of
stitching used to hold pieces of fabric together. The type of fabric and the design of the
item determine the type of seam and the raw edge is the seam allowance. I learned was
what tools and equipment I needed to sew. The key items needed on hand are needles,
pins, a tape measure and ruler, some marking implements, dressmaker’s shears, and
small sewing scissors. Cutting tools can be basic, but should never be used on paper
because it will make the blades blunt and eventually ruin the sheers. Small sewing
scissors are essential for detailed tasks like clipping and trimming seams. Pins, needles,
and thread are all essential stitching tools.
The raw edges on garments, accessories and home furnishings must be finished
to prevent them from fraying; often the finishing can be decorative. Trims and borders
such as piping, cording and ruffles also make simple and attractive finishes for edges
and seams. Creating edgings allows a much greater choice of fabric, color, and pattern.
The next lesson I learned was all about the sewing machine. The sewing
machine is one of the most important pieces of equipment that anyone who sews will
use, and it its probably the most expensive. Every model has its own characteristics,
even within the range offered by a single manufacturer. According to Mrs. Chen the best
way to become familiar with your machine is to use it.
So as Ratatouille says “Anyone can cook”, I myself believe after this whole
project that anyone can sew. It really just takes practice and patience, and in my case a
lot of practice. And after all this project, I would like to show off my skills in a live
demonstration where I sew a tie.
Rochellyn Olana
Wow, by the looks of it my sewing adventures are over, for this project at least. I learned so
many lessons and skills and I can’t wait to apply them to real life. Mr Gador taught me about
tools and equipment, sewing machines, fabrics, stitches, seams, edges, and pressing. While there
were many hurdles that I faced throughout this project, I practiced and persisted through. I
definitely struggled with cutting and stitching straight and understanding how to use the sewing
machine. But after many hours of practice, it really does make perfect.
One of the first lessons I learned was what tools and equipment I needed to sew. The key
items needed on hand are needles, pins, a tape measure and ruler, some marking implements,
dressmaker’s shears, and small sewing scissors. Cutting tools can be basic, but should never be
used on paper because it will make the blades blunt and eventually ruin the sheers. Small sewing
scissors are essential for detailed tasks like clipping and trimming seams. Pins, needles, and
thread are all essential stitching tools.
The next lesson I learned was all about the sewing machine. The sewing machine is one
of the most important pieces of equipment that anyone who sews will use, and it its probably the
most expensive. Every model has its own characteristics, even within the range offered by a
single manufacturer. According to Mr. Gador best way to become familiar with your machine is
to use it.
Mr. Gador also taught me all about understanding fabrics. There are so many different
fabrics available today that it would be impossible to list them all, but most fabrics have certain
common characteristics. The weight of the fabric from light to heavy is one of the main
characteristics that determine its use. Heavyweight materials are most likely to be found in a
special-occasion dress. And because knitted fabrics tend to stretch, they are less likely to be
found in furnishings.
Sewing is all about stitches, which are the result of taking a length of thread on a needle
through two or more layers of a material to join them. Stitches can be decorative or invisible;
they can be made by hand or by a sewing machine. Seams are rows of stitching used to hold
pieces of fabric together. The type of fabric and the design of the item determine the type of
seam and the raw edge is the seam allowance.
The raw edges on garments, accessories and home furnishings must be finished to
prevent them from fraying; often the finishing can be decorative. Trims and borders such as
piping, cording and ruffles also make simple and attractive finishes for edges and seams.
Creating edgings allows a much greater choice of fabric, color, and pattern.
o matter how accurately the seams are stitched or how fine the hem finish, pressing the
piece as you work is the key to professional-looking results. Pressing requires a different
technique from ironing. It is done lightly, with just the tip of the iron being used on specific area.
Accurate pressing is crucial, while pressing markings such as tucks and pleats before stitching
will make the piece much easier to work.
So as Ratatouille says “Anyone can cook”, I myself believe after this whole project that
anyone can sew. It really just takes practice and patience, and in my case a lot of practice. And
after all this project, I would like to show
I also learned how to make a Pajama pattern. A pair of pants is generally made with a center
seam down the front, a center seam down the back, a side seam on each outer side and an inside seam
(inseam) on the inside of each leg. That is how our pants will be constructed, so our pattern will be
created in this style. The back waistline comes up a bit higher than the front. This creates a good fit and is
why I make my own pj's. Store-bought pj's often cut the back too low and this creates a problem when
bending over ("plumber pants"). When you make your own pattern, you can cut the front lower (low
slung look) and the back higher for a nice fit. If you want both front and back lower, that is fine too - it's
your choice. Customize the fit to your own taste
ou need 4 main measurements to make a pajama pants pattern: waist, hip, inseam, crotch length
and thigh. Take the measurements as described below and write down each one.
Waist: Measure your natural waist or measure around the area where you want your pant waist
to be (usually a bit under the real waist).
Hip: Measure around the fullest part of the hip.
Inseam: Measure from the crotch to the inside of the ankle - or to where you want the pant leg to
come to (ankle, mid calf if capri length, on floor etc.)
Crotch Length: Measure from center back waist, between legs, to center front waist - to be sure
your pattern will come up high enough on the waist and allow room for your "seat" and "belly".
Thigh: Measure around the fullest part.
Create your pattern. Following the pattern example on the right, draw your pattern (see
"altering your pattern" below for more instruction). You will need two pattern pieces: front and
back. These pattern pieces will placed on a folded piece of fabric. When the fabric is cut, you
will have two opposite fronts and two opposite backs (a right and left leg for front, and a right
and left leg for back).
Refer to "Altering" below for directions on making changes to our basic pattern, to create a
custom fit for you.
NOTE: The front and back will sewn together at the inseam and outer seam; therefore, these
measurements MUST BE EQUAL. In my example, the outer seam of BOTH the front and back
measure 40". The inseams measure 28". The back center seam measures 13.5" (vertically) and
the front center seam measures 12" (vertically). As stated above, the back center seam rides
higher at the waist. The curve of the back center seam is more pronounced than that of the front.
It goes from 9.5" at the top point to 13.5" at the crotch point - a difference of 4". The front center
seam curve is only 2.25". This allows for the curve around the buttocks. It also makes the pant
waist come IN at the small of the back, creating a nice fit.
My reflection in dressmaking
Sewing machines can look frighteningly complex to those of us who don't know
how to use them. However, don't let the fear of an unknown machine and skill set keep
you from creating glorious textile wonders! Use this step-by-step guide through the
anatomy, set-up, and use of a sewing machine so that you can begin crafting your own
hand-made items. I’ve learned how to use it. Find the power switch. It may seem silly,
but locating the power switch is the most important step! This is located in different
places depending on the sewing machine you have, but is normally on the right side of
the body. Locate the spool pin. This is a small plastic or metal pin that sticks out of the
top of the sewing machine, and holds your spool of thread.
Look for the thread guide. The thread guide directs thread from the spool on the top of
the machine to the bobbin winder. It is a geometric metal piece that sticks out of the top
of the sewing machine on the left side. Find the bobbin-winder. To the right of the
spool pin on top of the sewing machine is another smaller plastic or metal pin, next to a
small horizontal wheel. This is the bobbin winder and the bobbin winder stopper. These
work together (with the spool of thread) to wind thread onto your bobbin prior to starting
sewing.
Look for the stitch adjustment buttons. These are in different locations depending on
the specific sewing machine you have, but there is typically a small screen next to a few
physical buttons on the front side of the sewing machine. These buttons select the type
of stitch you create, the length of the stitch, and the direction of the stitch (forward or in
reverse). Check the manual for your specific machine to determine the functions for
each of the buttons.
Locate the thread take-up lever. When you're ready to thread your sewing
machine, you will wind the thread from the spool on top, through the thread guide, and
then around the takeup lever. This is the lever (with two cut-in grooves) located on the
front left side of the sewing machine. There are typically numbers and arrows printed
next to it to clearly direct you the way in which to thread the machine.
Look for the tension dial. The tension dial is a small numbered wheel near the
takeup lever. It controls the tension of the thread as you sew; if the tension is too tight,
the needle will be pulled to the right. If the tension is too loose, the thread will loop on
the bottom of the fabric you are sewing
Find the needle clamp screw. This is a metal piece that holds the needle in
place while sewing. It is located under the arm of the sewing machine, looks similar to a
large nail, and sticks out to the right side of the needle.
Look for the presser foot. This is a metal attachment under the needle clamp
screw that looks like a small ski. When engaged, this holds the fabric in places and
guides it through the sewing machine as you sew.
Find the presser foot lever and practice raising and lowering the presser
foot. It will be a lever to the right or back of the needle assembly. To adjust the presser
foot, move it all the way down and all the way up.
Look for the needle plate. the needle plate is the silver plate just below the needle.
Simple enough, Find the feed dog. The feed dog (silly name, right?) is a small metal
guide under the presser foot on the needle plate that moves the fabric through the
machine as you sew. You can find it by looking for the two small metal rows underneath
the presser foot.
Locate the bobbin cover and bobbin release. The bobbin is a small spool of thread
that is supplied from the bottom of the sewing machine, and supplies thread to the
needle for the backing. Under the metal plate where the needle is is the bobbin cover,
and next to that there should be a cover release button or pin. You'll use this to put the
bobbin in place before sewing
Look for the presser foot. This is a metal attachment under the needle clamp
screw that looks like a small ski. When engaged, this holds the fabric in places and
guides it through the sewing machine as you sew.
I’ve also learned the different kinds of tools and equipment used in dressmaking. Tape
Measure
Having a tape measure to hand can be indispensable, especially when you’re taking
measuring or making alterations. We’d suggest investing in a tape-measure that rolls
up rather than retracts into a case to make your life easier.
Tailor’s Chalk
Tailor’s chalk allows you to easily mark your fabric when you’re measuring it and
preparing to cut it. It will work on most materials and is easily removed, making it a
popular tool in the sewing world.
Pencil, Ruler & Rubber
These three tools are essential to any dressmaker’s sewing kit as they come in handy
when you need to make alterations to your patterns.
Dressmaker’s Shears
Also referred to as dressmaker’s scissors, these scissors have serrated edges that are
ideal for cutting out all types of fabric, including leather and denim. We’d suggest
investing in a high-quality pair that come with a sheath to keep them in after every use.
It’s also worth knowing that these types of scissors aren’t designed to cut paper or
thread, as this will blunt their edge.
Paper Scissors
As dressmaker’s shears shouldn’t be used for cutting paper, its best practise to have an
ordinary pair of scissors in your dressmaking kit so you’re able to cut out patterns as
and when you need to.
Small, Sharp Scissors
A pair of small, sharp scissors are also useful for cutting thread.
Rotary Cutter
A rotary cutter is a tool that can save you hours of time. As the blade rotates, it makes it
easy to cut layers of fabric simultaneously, whilst giving you a clean cutting edge.
Cutting Mat
If you’re using a rotary cutter, you’ll also need a cutting mat to protect your work
surface. We’d recommended choosing the largest size you can to make sure you can fit
all your fabric on at once.
Sewing Machine
A sewing machine will become your new best friend as you start dress-making. There
will be some patterns that require you to hand sew, but for the majority of your sewing
you will need a sewing machine. If you don’t own a sewing machine then we would
advise investing in a sturdy machine that has multiple stitching options.
Machine Needles
With your sewing machine you’ll need to invest in a range of different sewing machine
needles depending on what fabric and weight you working with. You can find more
information about the different types of sewing machine needles on page?
Seam Unpicker
Especially if you’re just starting out, you’re bound to make mistakes, so you’ll want a
seam ripper to un-pick stitches.
Extra Sewing Feet
Having extra sewing feet will not only make your life easier when it comes to sewing
trickier stitches, but won’t hinder your project if one snaps mid-sew.
Hand-Sewing Needles
Even though most of your work will be sewn with a sewing machine, you will need some
hand-sewing needles for elements such as intricate detailing. Standard hand-sewing
needles will do the job perfectly,
Pin Cushion
Keep your work station tidy with a pin cushion. Most sewing kits will come with a
traditional fabric pin cushion, however a handy alternative is a magnetic pin cushion, as
it means you no longer need to worry about finding pins lying about on the floor.
Thimble
Protect your thumb when you’re hand sewing with a thimble. Make sure you purchase
one that is non-slip to prevent it from moving about as you sew.
I also learned dressmaking is not an easy subject. This subject test my patience
as well as my dedication to learn.
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