Life, Works, and Writings of a Genius, Writer, Scientist,

and National Hero

Chapter 9

Rizal’s Grand Tour of Europe with Viola (1887)

After the publication of the Noli, Rizal planned to visit the important places in Europe.
Dr. Maximo Viola agreed to be his traveling companion. Rizal had received Paciano’s remittance
of ₱1,000 which was forwarded by Juan Luna from Paris. he immediately paid Viola the sum of
₱300 which he latter kindly loaned so that the Noli could be printed, he was ready to see
Europe before returning to Calamba. First, he and Viola visited Potsdam, a city near Berlin,
which Frederick the great mad famous.

The Tour Begins. At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola, two brown-skinned doctors
on a roaming spree, left Berlin by train. It was an ideal season for travel. Spring was in the air,
and all over Europe the flowers were blooming, the meadows were turning green, and the
villages were hummin with activity. According to Viola, the luggage of Rizal included all the
letters he had received from his (Rizal’s) family and friends. Their destination was Dresden.
“one of the best cities in Germany”.

Dresden. Rizal and Viola tarried for some time in Dresden. Their visit coincided with the
regional floral exposition. Rizal who was interested in botany, studied the “numerous plant
varieties of extraordinary beauty and size”. They visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer, who was
overjoyed to see them. In the Museum of Art, which they also visited, Rizal was deeply
impressed by a painting of “Prometheus Bound” and recalled seeing a representation of the
same idea in an art gallery in Paris.

While strolling at the scene of the Floral Exposition, they met Dr. Jagor. Upon hearing of
their plan to visit Leitmeritz (now Litomerice, Czechoslovakia) in order to see Blumentritt for the
first time, Dr. Jagor advised them to wire Blumentritt of their coming because the old professor
was of a nervous disposition and he might suffer a shock at their sudden visit.

Teschen (now Decin, Czechoslovakia) was their next stopover after leaving Dresden.
Rizal and Viola set a wire to Blumentritt, as per suggestion of Dr. Jagor.
 First Meeting with Blumentritt. At 1:30 p.m. of May 13, 1887, the train, with Rizal and
Viola on board, arrived at the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt,
who had received their wire, was at the station. He was carrying a pencil sketch of Rizal which
the latter had previously set him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend. He warmly
received Rizal and Viola.

For the first time, the two great scholars – Rizal and Blumentritt – who came to know
each other in fluent German. Blumentritt was a kind-hearted, old Austrian professor. Upon
seeing the talented Rizal for the first time, he immediately took him into heart, loving him as a
son.

Professor Blumentritt, the genial host, helped Rizal And Viola get a room at Hotel Krebs,
after which he brought them to his home and introduced them to his wife and family. The two
Filipino tourists spent many pleasant hours at the home of their kind host. They stayed in
Leitmeritz from may 13 to May 16, 1887.

Beautiful Memories of Leitmeritz. Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz.
He enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Blumentritt family. The professor’s wife Rosa, was a
good cook, and she prepared special Austrian dishes which Rizal liked very much. His children
were Dolores (called Dora or Dorita by Rizal), Conrad, and Fritz.

Blumentritt proved to be a great tourist guide as well as a hospitable host. He showed

the scenic and historical spots of Leitmeritz to his visitors. One afternoon he invited them to a
beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia was served. At a near table there was a lively
discussion among the drinkers about the advisability of having the railroad pass through ta
neighboring town. One of the men in the group was the burgomaster (town mayor) of that
town, Blumentritt knew the burgomaster so that he approached the party and delightfully
introduced his two Filipino friends. Rizal talked in fluent German, for which reason the
burgomaster and his friends were amazed. The burgomaster asked Rizal how long it took him to
learn German. And Rizal replied: “Eleven months, sir”. The burgomaster was further amaze, and
in greate admiration, he lauded the “privileged talent” of Rizal. Blumentritt embraced Rizal,
telling him that few Germans could speak well their own language as Rizal could.

On another afternoon Rizal and Viola were invited to a meeting of the Tourists Club of
Leitmeritz, of which Blumentritt was the secretary. Rizal spoke extemporaneously in fluen
German to the officers and members, praising Austria’s idyllic scenes and its hospitable, nature-
loving, and noble people. The audience wildly applauded him, for they were enchanted by his
eloquence and fluency in German.

Rizal, desiring to commemorate his happy hours at the Blumentritt home, painted a
portrait of the kind professor and gave it to him. Blumentritt was pleased with the gift.
 It was during his visit to Leitmeritz when Rizal met another renowned scientist of
Europe, Dr. Carlos Czepelak. Blumentritt brough him to Czepelak’s home, and Rizal had a nice
conversation with this Polish scholar. Blumentritt also introduced Rizal to Professor Robert
Klutschak, an eminent naturalist.

On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola, to reciprocate Blumentritts’s hospitality,
tendered a banquet – a farewell dinner – in his honor at their hotel.

On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train, Blumentritt, his wife,
and children were at the railroad station to see them off, and they all shed tears in parting as
the train slowly departed.

Rizal carried onto his grave the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. In a letter to
Blumentritt, written in Vienna on May 24, 1887, Rizal expressed his and Viola’s concern for the
illness of Dora, the professor’s little daughter, “Viola and I,” thus wrote Rizal, “are very sad
because out little friend Dora is sick. We still remember her little blue eyes; we hear her merry
laughter, and we see her little teeth. Poor Dorita! I saw her run after us when the train was
leaving! With all my heart I wish her prompt recovery”.

In another letter, written in Brunn, Austria, on May 19, 1887, three days after leaving
Leitmeritz, Rizal wrote to Blumentritt: “ I shall make my good friends of Leitmeritz the objects
of my thoughts and I shall say of myself: You are not alone, Rizal; in a small corner of Bohemia
there are good, noble, and friendly souls who like you; think of them ; consider them as if they
were with you, as if they saw you; they will rejoice over your joys, and will weep over your
suffering . . . Please kiss the children for me, express my greetings to your wife, and to your
good father and the friends in Leitmeritz. I am at heart an inhabitant I believe Austria will
always live in my heart”. In the same letter, Rizal told Blumentritt that he forgot his diamond
stickpin at his room in Hotel Krebs.

Prague. After Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola visited the historic city of Prague. They carried
letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkkomm, professor of natural history in
the University of Prague. The good professor and his charming wife and daughters welcomed
them and showed them the city’s historirc spots.

Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer; the museum of
natural history; the bacteriological laboratories; the famous cave where San Juan Nepomuceno,
the Catholic saint, was imprisoned; and the bridge from which this saint was hurled into the
river.

After saying good-bye to Professor Willkomm and his family, the two tourists went to
Brunn. according to Viola, “nothing of importance happened” in this city.
 Vienna. On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, capital of
Austria-Hungary. Famous in son and story, this city fascinated Rizal because of its beautiful
buildings, religious images, haunting waltzes, and majestic charm. Vienna was truly the “Queen
of the Danube”.

Rizal and Viola, armed with a letter of recommendation from Blumetritt, met
Norfenfals , one of the greatest novelist in Europe during that time. This great Austrian novelist
was favorably impressed by Rizal, and years later he spoke highly of Rizal, “whose genius he so
much admired”.

In Vienna, Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin. It was found by a maid in Hotel Krebs
and was given to Blumentritt,, who in turn, forwarded it to Rizal in Vienna.

Rizal and Viola stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the city’s interesting places, such
as churches, museums, art galleries, theaters, and public parks. They met two good friends of
Blumentritt - Masner and Nordmann, Austrian scholars.

Danubian Voyage to LIntz. On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see
the beautiful sights of the Danube River. As they traveled along the famous river, Rizal observed
keenly the river sights – the barges loaded with products, the flowers and plants growing along
the river banks, the boats with families living on them, and the quaint villages on the riversides.
We particularly noticed that the passengers on the river boat were using paper napkins during
the meals, which was a novelty to him. His fellow passenger, Viola, commented that the paper
napkins were “more hygienic and economical than cloth napkins”.

From LIntz to Rheinfall. The river voyage ended in Lintz. They traveled overland to
Salzburg, and from there to Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savor the famous
Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany.

From Munich, they went to Nuremberg, one of the oldest cities of Germany. Among the
sights which they saw in this city were the horrible torture machines used by the Inquisition.
Rizal examined carefully these torture machines. He and Viola were impressed by the
manufacture of dolls which was the biggest industry of the city.

After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of this city was “the largest and tallest in
all Germany”. Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps. He rested twice
on the way to the tower and felt dizzy from the strain upon reaching the top. Rizal, on the other
hand, ascended without resting and was not tired when he reached the top.

From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden, and then Rheinfall (Cascade of the Rhine). At
Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall, “the most beautiful waterfall of Europe”.
 Crossing the Frontier to Switzerland. From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to
Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They continued their
tour to Basel (Bale), Bern, and Lausanne.

Geneva. After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing the
foggy Leman Lake to Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, visited
by world tourists every year. The people of Geneva were linguists, speaking French, German,
and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three languages.

Aside form visiting the tourist spots, Rizal and Viola went boating on the lake. In this
aquatic excursion, Rizal showed his rowing prowess which he acquired during his boyhood days
in Calamba.

On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out. It was his 26 th birthday. According to
a Filipino custom, he celebrated his birthday with a sumptuous meal.

Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways –
Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal continued the tour to Italy.

Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1887 Madrid Exposition. While Rizal,

accompanied by Dr. Viola, was happily touring Europe, an Exposition of the Philippines was held
in Madrid, Spain, Upon reaching Geneva (Switzerland), he received sad news from his friends in
Madrid of the deplorable conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this
exposition, some of “whom died, and whose scanty clothing (G-strings) and crude weapons
were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people and press.

Being a champion of human dignity, Rizal was outraged by this degradation of his fellow
countrymen the Igorots of Northern Luzon. In a letter to his friend, Blumentrit, dated Geneva,
June 6, 1887, he said:

“My poor compatriots (Igorots -Z.) who are now being exhibited in
Madrid are mocked by Spanish newspapers, except El Liberal which says that it is
not consistent with human dignity to be exhibited side by side with animals and
plants. I have done everything possible to prevent the display of this degradation
of men of my race, but I have not succeeded. Now one woman died of
pneumonia. The Igorots were housed in a barraca (rusting house made of
bamboo, grass, and tree branches – Z.). And El Resumen still makes mean jokes
about it!”

In another letter to Blumetritt, dated Geneva, June 19, 1887, Rizal said he was in favor
of holding an exposition, “but not an exhibition of odd individuals, showing our countrymen as
a curiosity to entertain the idle inhabitants of Madrid”. He emphatically reiterated: “We want
an industrial exposition, but not an exhibition of human beings who are compelled to live
almost outdoors and die of nostalgia and pneumonia or typhus!”.

Rizal in Italy. From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and
Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the “Eternal city” and also called the “City of the
Caesars”

He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City. Describing to
Blumentritt, the “grandeur that was Rome”, he wrote on June 27, 1887.

I am in Rome! Everything I step on is the dust of heroes. Here I breathe

the same air which the Roman heroes have breathed. I salute every statue with
reverence, and to me, a humble native of a small island, it seems that I am in a
sanctuary. I have already seen the Capitolium, the Tarpeian Rock, the Palatinum,
the Forum Romanum, the Amphitheatre, etc. Everything here is glorious except
the cafes and the café singers. I do not enter these (cafes) because I loathe to
hear their French songs or see modern industries. My favorite places are the
Amphitheatre and the Roman Forum; there I remain seated for hours,
contemplating everything and restoring life to the ruins . . . I have also visited
some churches and museums, like the Capitoline Museum and the Church of
Santa Maria Maggiore, which is also grandiose.

On June 29th, the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul, Rizal visited for the first time the
Vatican, the “City of the Popes” and the capital of Christendom. He was deeply impressed by
the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. Peter’s Church, the rare works of art, the vast St.
Peter’s Square, the colorful Papal Guards and the atmosphere of religious devotion that
pervaded the Vatican.

Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tire. “I am
tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I will sleep as a god”.

After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines. He

had already written to his father that he was coming home.