The Journal of The Textile Institute

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Thermal resistance of fabrics vs. thermal

insulation of clothing made of the fabrics

Małgorzata Matusiak & Wioletta Sybilska

To cite this article: Małgorzata Matusiak & Wioletta Sybilska (2015): Thermal resistance
of fabrics vs. thermal insulation of clothing made of the fabrics, The Journal of The Textile
Institute, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2015.1061789

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2015.1061789

Published online: 06 Jul 2015.

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 The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2015
http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2015.1061789

Thermal resistance of fabrics vs. thermal insulation of clothing made of the fabrics
Małgorzata Matusiak* and Wioletta Sybilska
Institute of Textile Architecture, Lodz University of Technology, Lodz, Poland
(Received 3 February 2015; accepted 21 May 2015)

The protection of a human body against the negative environmental factors, especially the cold, is one of the crucial
functions of clothing. Clothing creates a thermal barrier between the human body and the surroundings. The protective
efficiency of clothing goods depends mostly on thermal insulation properties of textile materials applied in clothing. The
clothing design, fitting to a user’s body, and a number of layers also play an important role in the phenomenon of the
heat exchange between the human organism and its surroundings. The thermal insulation properties of textile materials
can be measured by means of different testing devices, such as the “skin model,” the Alambeta, the Permetest, and the
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Thermo Labo. A measurement of clothing goods from the point of view of their thermal insulation is performed using a
thermal manikin. The article presents an investigation of thermal insulation properties of vests by means of thermal
manikin. The investigated vests have been made of different textile materials: woven and knitted. The thermal insulation
properties of fabrics applied in vests have been measured by means of the Alambeta. The article presents and discusses
the relationships between the thermal insulation of vests according to the thermal manikin and the thermal resistance of
fabrics applied in the vests.
Keywords: thermal insulation; clothing; fabrics; thermal resistance; thermal manikin; Alambeta

Introduction clothing sets in the aspect of the thermal insulation

The protection of human body against the negative
environmental factors, especially the cold, is one of the
crucial functions of clothing. It creates a thermal barrier
between the human body and its surroundings. The
protective efficiency of clothing goods depends mostly
on thermal insulation properties of textile materials
applied in clothing. The thermal resistance, the water-
vapor resistance, and the air permeability are considered
to be the most important comfort-related properties of
fabrics (Hes, 2006). The clothing design, fitting to a
user’s body, and number of layers also play an important
role in the phenomenon of the heat exchange between
the human organism and the environment. Among the
factors influencing the thermal insulation of clothing, we
should also list properties of fabrics such as the
thickness, the mass per square meter, the stiffness, and
the drapeability. The properties mentioned above are
important for a clothing fit.
An assessment of clothing goods from the point of
view of their ability to ensure the thermal comfort of a
clothing user is a serious problem. An instrumental
measurement of clothing goods from the point of view
of their thermal insulation can be performed only with
the use of the thermal manikin. It is a device enabling a
simulation of the heat exchange between the human
body and the environment. By means of the thermal
manikin, it is possible to assess the clothing goods and
provided by them. The procedure of clothing
measurement by means of the thermal manikin is
standardized in the international standard ISO 15831:
2001. The standard describes the requirements relating
the thermal manikin and the test procedure used to
measure the thermal insulation of a clothing assemble, as
it becomes effective for the wearer in practical use in a
relatively calm environment, with the wearer either
standing or moving (International Standard ISO
15831:2004, 2004). The thermal manikin measures the
total insulation which is the sum of the thermal
insulation of the assessed clothing and thermal insulation
of the air layer (Goldman, 2006; Konarska, Sołtynski,
Sudoł-Szopińska, & Chojnacka, 2007). To determine the
effective clothing insulation, it is necessary to calculate
the total insulation and the insulation of the air layer at
the manikin’s surface and next the difference between
them (Oliveira, Gaspar, & Quintela, 2012).
The measurement of clothing by means of the
thermal manikin is not commonly applied. The thermal
manikins are mainly used in scientific laboratories and
laboratories specializing in the testing of advanced
clothes, especially the protective ones. Due to the long-
lasting procedure of preparation and performance of the
measurement, the testing is relatively expensive.
Moreover, due to the proper fitting of the assessed
clothing to the manikin’s body, the size of the tested

*Corresponding author. Email: malgorzata.matusiak@p.lodz.pl

© 2015 The Textile Institute

 2 M. Matusiak and W. Sybilska
clothing should be appropriate to the size of the
manikin. It results thereof that two types of the thermal
manikins are necessary to measure the thermal insulation
of a whole range of the cold-protective clothing: of male
and of female body shapes.
It is much easier and cheaper to assess the thermal
insulation of the textile materials designed for clothing.
Due to this fact, a testing of flat textile materials in the
range of their thermal insulation properties is commonly
applied all over the world. The thermal insulation
properties of textile materials can be measured by means
of different testing devices, such as the “skin model,”
the Alambeta, the Permetest, and the Thermo Labo (Hes,
De Araujo, & Djulay, 1996; Matusiak, 2011).
The sweating-guarded hotplate test, called the “skin
model,” is the most commonly recognized and used all
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over the world. “Skin model” measures two parameters
characterizing the thermal comfort: the thermal resistance
and the water-vapor resistance. The measurement
procedure by means of the “skin model” is standardized
in the international standard ISO 11092 (Matusiak,
2011).
The Alambeta is a computer-controlled instrument
designed for the measurement of the basic static and
dynamic thermal characteristics of textiles (Hes, Doleżal,
& Hanzl, 1990; Matusiak, 2006). It measures seven
properties of fabrics: the thermal conductivity, the
thermal diffusivity, the thermal absorptivity, the thermal
resistance, the maximum heat flow density, the ratio of
maximum and stationary heat flow density as well as the
material thickness. The procedure of the measurement of
the thermal insulation properties by means of the
ALAMBETA is standardized in the internal standard of
the Textile Faculty of the Technical University of
Liberec – Internal Standard No. 23-204-02/01
“Measurement of the thermal properties by ALAMBETA
device” (Internal Standard No 23-204-02/01, 2001).
The Permetest is a new fast response-measuring
instrument for the nondestructive determination of the
water-vapor and the thermal resistance as well as the
relative water-vapor permeability of flat materials:
fabrics, nonwovens, foils, and paper sheets (Hes &
Dolezal, 2003). The Permetest can be considered as a
small-scale “skin model”. The instrument provides all
kinds of measurements very similar to the ISO Standard
11092, and the results are evaluated by the identical
procedure as required in the ISO 11092 (International
Standard ISO 11092:2014, 2014).
The Thermo Labo II evaluates the warm/cool feeling
by measuring the maximum heat flow, the constant
thermal conductivity, and the heat-keeping property also
called the Insulation Value. The measurement of the
heat-keeping property can be carried out at different
measurement conditions: the dry contact method, the wet
contact method, the dry space method, and the wet space
method, at the wind velocities 0.3 and 1.0 ms−1
(Matusiak, 2007, 2011).
The question is how the results of the measurement
of the thermal insulation properties for flat textile
materials can be applied to predict the thermal insulation
of clothing made of these materials.
Matusiak elaborated the relative thermal comfort
index (RTCI) as a method enabling an evaluation of
textile materials regarding their capability to ensure the
thermal comfort while using the clothing made of them
in given climatic conditions (Matusiak & Sikorski,
2011). Two formulas of the RTCI have been suggested
for fabrics used in the production of everyday use
clothing appropriate for a cold microclimate:
• for fabrics used in the production of the everyday
clothing for an outdoor use in the cold
microclimate – RTCIWO = f(R, b, Ret, AP);
• for fabrics used in the production of the everyday
clothing for an indoor use in the cold microclimate
– RTCIWI = f(R, b, Ret)
where R – thermal resistance, b – thermal absorptivity,
Ret – water-vapor resistance, and AP – air permeability.
The elaborated index RTCIWI has been verified
experimentally in the frame of the utility trials consisting in
wearing the vests made of the fabrics of the given comfort-
related parameters and the subjective assessment of the
thermal sensation while wearing the assessed clothing in
the cold microclimate (Matusiak & Sikorski, 2011).
From the analysis of the literature in the area of the
comfort-related properties of textiles and clothing, it
results that, generally, there are two main groups of
papers:
• the ones concerning the comfort-related properties
of fabrics (flat textile materials) – single or
multilayer. They have been investigated using
different devices such as the “skin model,” the
Alambeta, etc. There are a lot of articles focused
on the thermal insulation properties of woven and
knitted fabrics, analyzing different aspects of this
topic;
• the ones concerning the thermal insulation
properties of clothing. Usually, the thermal
manikins are applied in this group of investigation.
Very often, the results from different types of
thermal manikins are compared in previously
published articles, for instance in Gao et al. (2006)
and Kuklane et al. (2004).
The literature review confirmed that there is a lack of
investigation analyzing the relationships between the
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
results of the thermal resistance of fabrics and the
thermal insulation of clothing made of these fabrics. In
our opinion, the topic is of a crucial nature. The
instrumental measurement of the clothing in the range of
its thermal insulation can be made only with the use of a
thermal manikin. The measurement by means of the
thermal manikin is costly and time-consuming, taking
into consideration the time necessary for the
measurement performance and measurement preparation,
i.e. the stabilization of the climatic conditions in the
chamber and the stabilization of the thermal manikin.
Very often, the thermal manikin is not commonly
available. Due to this fact, it is very important to have
the possibility of applying the results from the devices
testing the flat textile materials to predict the thermal
insulation of clothing made of these materials and to
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select the materials for manufacturing the clothing of
desirable thermal insulation. Due to this fact, there is a
necessity to know the relationships between the results
from the instruments testing the flat textiles and the
results of the clothing assessment by means of the
thermal manikin.
The aim of the presented work was to compare the
results of the assessment of the flat textile materials in
the range of their thermal insulation by means of the
Alambeta with the results from the thermal manikin for
the clothing made of these materials.
Materials and methods
In the frame of the presented investigations, nine kinds
of textile materials have been measured in the range of
their thermal resistance. They were: woven and knitted
fabrics of different raw materials and structures as well
as multilayer materials, usually applied in clothing as a
thermal insulation layer. The materials for investigation
have been chosen from clothing materials commonly
available in the market. The aim of the work was to
show the relationships between the results from the
Alambeta and thermal manikin. Due to this fact, the
Table 1. The characteristics of the investigated materials.
Symbol Description
WG Woven fabric
BR Woven fabric 2/2 (2)
WF Woven fabric – georgette
WJZ Woven fabric – flannel
WZ Woven fabric
OG Three-Layer material: woven fabric + nonwoven + woven
lining
OP Two-Layer material: woven fabric + nonwoven
PR Knitted – polar 1
PS Knitted – polar 2
3
samples for the comparative analysis have been chosen
in such a way that permitted having different
investigated materials manufactured using different
textile technologies: weaving, knitting, and nonwoven
manufacturing in order to show the relationships
between both instruments independently on the kind of
material. We chose materials representing a wide range
of thermal insulation from very low thermal insulation
characteristic for thin cotton woven fabric to high
thermal insulation of multilayer packages applied as
thermal insulation layer in winter clothing. In order to
exclude the influence of clothing construction on the
results from the thermal manikin, the investigated
materials have been used to manufacture vests of the
identical size and cut.
The basic properties of the investigated textile
materials are presented in the Table 1.
The fabrics described above have been used for
manufacturing vests of the same size and cut without
any pockets, folds, flounces, or any other structural
elements which could disturb the heat exchange
(Figure 1).
All investigated fabrics have been measured in the
range of their thermal insulation properties by the
Alambeta. This method belongs to the so-called “double
plate method,” the working principle of which consists
of a recorded unidirectional heat flow through the
sample from the hotter upper plate to the colder bottom
plate adjoined to it. The instrument directly measures the
transient and steady-state heat flow density passing
through the plates, the temperature difference between
the upper and bottom fabric surface, and the fabric
thickness. Other thermal parameters such as the thermal
conductivity, the thermal absorptivity, and the thermal
diffusivity are calculated from the directly measured
parameters (Hes et al., 1996). The measurement was
performed according to the standard (Hes et al., 1990).
For each fabric, 10 laboratory samples have been
measured. Next, an arithmetic mean from the results for
10 samples has been calculated as a final result.
Raw Mass per square meter Thickness
material (gm−2) (mm)
WO/PES 264 0.58
CO 293 0.65
WO 196 0.67
WO 210 0.58
WO 229 0.76
PES 172 1.64
PES 120 3.03
PES 294 3.17
PES 259 2.84
 4 M. Matusiak and W. Sybilska
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Figure 1. Vest made of the woolen-woven fabric WJZ.
The manufactured vests have been measured by
means of the thermal manikin. The manikin was a
female thermal manikin “Pernile” model by PT
TEKNIK, Denmark. It is a 168-cm high female body
model of weight of 20 kg consisting of 24 body
segments (Figure 2).
The manikin enables measurement in standing,
sitting, and walking positions. Three different methods
of controlling the heat transfer to the manikin are
available: the Comfort control, the proportional integral
(PI) control, and the Locked Power (Thermal manikin
manual, 2008). The Comfort control is simulating the
thermal resistance in the skin. In this mode, the
necessary deep body temperature and the thermal
resistance as a transmitted power in function of the
temperature below the necessary deep body temperature
are established. In the PI control mode, constant skin
temperature is established, whereas in the Locked Power
mode, the necessary power is established to be
transmitted to the manikin.
The measurement of the vests was performed in a
climatic chamber at the established air temperature of
22 °C. First the measurement was done for a naked
manikin and next for a manikin dressed in a vest. The
measurement was performed in the standing position
using the PI control mode at the established skin
temperature of 34 °C. The results were recorded each
Figure 2. Segments of the female thermal manikin’s body.
minute. Each test was performed in such a way that after
stabilization of the manikin, 10 readings have been
collected, and next, an arithmetic mean from 10 readings
was calculated as a test result. For each vest, the test
was repeated thrice. The final result was calculated as an
arithmetic mean from the results of three tests.
Results and discussion
Alambeta measures seven properties. In the presented
investigation, only the thermal resistance was an object
of analysis. The determined values of the thermal
resistance of the textile materials applied in the vests are
presented in the Table 2.
In the case of the measurement by the thermal
manikin, it should be noted that the investigated vests
covered only a part of the manikin’s body. Due to this
fact, an analysis was done on the basis of the results for
the manikin’s segments covered by the vest, i.e. the left
chest, the right chest, the left back, and the right back of
a given surface area. On the basis of the values of the
heat flux for the mentioned segments, the total thermal
insulation and the thermal insulation of the air layer
were calculated.
Generally, the thermal resistance means a resistance
to the heat passage due to the difference in temperatures.
It expresses the difference in the temperatures across a
unit area of the material when a unit of heat energy
 The Journal of The Textile Institute 5

Table 2. The results of the measurement by means of the Alambeta and the thermal manikin.

Thermal insulation acc. to

thermal manikin (W−1 Km2)
Symbol Thermal resistance acc. to Alambeta (W−1 Km2) It Iclo
WG 0.010 0.176 0.065
BR 0.012 0.191 0.080
WF 0.014 0.204 0.094
WJZ 0.014 0.219 0.114
WZ 0.019 0.208 0.106
OG 0.046 0.249 0.146
OP 0.091 0.240 0.140
PR 0.108 0.280 0.178
PS 0.091 0.258 0.155
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flows through it. It can be defined by the following
formula:
DT
R¼ : (1)
P that there is a strong correlation between the thermal
where ΔT – temperature gradient in °C and P – heat flux
in Wm−2.
The thermal insulation can be defined as a reduction
of the heat flux between the objects of a different
temperature. According to the thermal manikin manual
(Gao et al., 2006), in the PI control mode, it is assumed
that the skin temperature is uniform over the body, i.e.
Ti = Tsk = constant and then the thermal insulation is
calculated from the following formula:
Tsk  Ta
I¼P : (2)
fi  Pi
where I – thermal insulation in W−1 Km2, Tsk – skin
temperature in °C, Ta – ambient temperature in °C, fi –
area fraction of segment (i) related to the whole body
area (in our case, the whole body area means the total
area of four mentioned segments: the left chest, right
chest, left back, and right back), and Pi – local heat flux
of segment in Wm−2.
The thermal insulation of the vest was calculated as
a difference between the total thermal insulation and the
thermal insulation of the air layer according to the
equation:
Iclo ¼ It  Ia : (3)
where Iclo – effective thermal insulation of clothing
(vest) in W−1 Km2, It – total insulation expressing the
thermal insulation from the surface of the manikin to
the environment, including the heat resistance of the
boundary air layer in W−1 Km2, and Ia – thermal
insulation of the boundary air layer measured for the
naked manikin in W−1 Km2.
Results of the calculation are presented in the
Table 2.
The relationships between the results from the
Alambeta and the thermal manikin are presented in the
Figures 3 and 4.
On the basis of the presented results, it can be stated
resistance of the fabrics measured by means of the
Alambeta and the thermal insulation of the vests
measured by the thermal manikin using the PI control
mode. The value of the correlation coefficient between
the results from the Alambeta and the thermal manikin is
ca. 0.9. However, the absolute values of the results from
both instruments differ significantly. The thermal
resistance of the fabrics measured by means of the
Alambeta is much lower than the thermal insulation of
the vests made of these fabrics determined by the
thermal manikin. The difference is justified. The
Alambeta belongs to the so-called “double plate
methods” in which the measured sample is placed
between two plates of different temperatures and it
adjoins them (Figure 5).
While measuring the clothing by means of the
thermal manikin, the measured clothing hands down
loosely from the manikin’s body. In this situation, there
are two air layers: between the skin (surface) of the
manikin and the inner surface of the clothing and
between the outer surface of the clothing and the
surroundings (Figure 6). Both air layers provide the
thermal insulation much higher than the thermal
resistance of the fabric form which the clothing is made
of (International Standard ISO 15831:2004, 2004).
From the point of view of the thermal comfort of the
clothing user, the total thermal insulation It seems to be
the most important parameter. It shows how the
investigated clothing together with the air layers
provides the thermal insulation for a user’s body. The air
layer between the surface of the manikin and the inner
surface of the clothing is created by the clothing and a
size of the inner air layer depends of the clothing
features: size, cut, stiffness, drapeability, etc. Due to this
 6 M. Matusiak and W. Sybilska
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Figure 3. The relationship between the thermal resistance of the fabrics according to the Alambeta and the total thermal insulation
of the vests according to the thermal manikin.

Figure 4. The relationship between the thermal resistance of the fabrics according to the Alambeta and the thermal insulation of the
vests according to the thermal manikin.

Heat flow Hot plate

Measured fabric
Measured clothing
T
Manikin body

Cold plate

Heat flow Ta
Figure 5. The principle of the fabric measurement by means
of the Alambeta.

Air layer between Air layer adjoining

fact, it is justified to state that the thermal insulation of the manikin and the outer surface
clothing of clothing
the air layer between the manikin and clothing is a result
of the protective action of the clothing. Taking it into
consideration, we can state that the total thermal Figure 6. The principle of the clothing measurement by
insulation It characterizes, in the best way, the clothing means of the thermal manikin.
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
from the point of view of their ability to protect the
human body against the cold.
However, the obtained results confirmed that in
different situations, especially where it is difficult or
impossible to measure the clothing by means of the
thermal manikin, the results from the Alambeta can be
successfully applied to compare different textile
materials from the point of view of the thermal
insulation of the clothing made of these materials as well
as to choose correctly an appropriate material for
manufacturing the cold-protective clothing.
Conclusion
The thermal manikin is widely applied to assess the
thermal insulation of clothing. The total thermal
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insulation It determined by the thermal manikin, in the
best way, characterizes the clothing from the point of
view of its cold-protective effectiveness. The total
thermal insulation It informs how the clothing assembles
together with the air layers: between the clothing layers
and between the manikin’s body and the inner surface of
the clothing, which reduce the heat flow due to the
temperature difference between the body and the
surroundings. However, due to different reasons, such as
the cost of measurement, the long-lasting procedure, the
availability, etc., it is not always possible to measure the
thermal insulation of the clothing using the thermal
manikin. In such a situation, the Alambeta can be
applied to measure the thermal resistance of the material
applied in clothing and, on the basis of the results from
the Alambeta, to conclude about the thermal-protective
effectiveness of the clothing made of these materials.
The carried out investigations showed that there is a
strong correlation between the thermal resistance of the
fabrics measured by the Alambeta and thermal insulation
of the vests made of these fabrics measured by means of
the thermal manikin.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.
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