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MOVEMENTS, STYLES, AND TENDENCIES FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY HISTORY AND CONCEPTS

Fashion Photography -
History and Concepts
Started: 1850
Ended: Present

TABLE OF CONTENTS "Many photographers feel their client is the subject. My client is a woman in
Summary Kansas who reads Vogue. I'm trying to intrigue, stimulate, feed her. My
Key Ideas responsibility is to the reader. The severe portrait that is not the greatest joy in
Artworks
Beginnings the world to the subject may be enormously interesting to the reader."
Concepts and Trends
Later Developments
Resources
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DO NOT MISS ON
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Documentary
Photography
Movement Page

----------------- BEGINNINGS OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY


Straight
Photography 19th Century Trends
Movement Page

By the mid-1800s some commercial photographers


KEY ARTISTS known for portraiture focused on aristocratic and fa
Edward Steichen women, a practice that would set the pattern for the
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development of Fashion Photography. The Countes
Artist Page
----------------- Castiglione Virginia Oldoni, mistress of the Emperor
Man Ray III and a celebrity of the court, became, in effect, the
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Artist Page
fashion model when, in 1856, she began working w
----------------- photographer Pierre Louis Pierson. Their collaborati
Cecil Beaton Countess, or La Castiglione, as she was more popu
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played an active role in designing the photo shoots,
----------------- theatrical scenarios and dressing to play various rol
Irving Penn spanned four decades and resulted in some 800 images, including photographs of
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Artist Page
modelling her custom made "Queen of Hearts" dress. Other celebrities, such as the
----------------- Sandra Bernhardt and the socialite Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, modelled for a num
Richard Avedon photographers while wearing the latest fashions. From its very beginnings, then, Fa
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-----------------
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Helmut Newton Photography was to have a symbiotic relationship with celebrity portraiture that ha
Quick View to the presentARTISTS
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day. TIMELINES IDEAS BLOG Search
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----------------- The birth of the fashion model (that is, a fashion model who was not already a cele
More Top Artists
be traced back to as early as 1853 when Charles Frederick Worth, a French designe
Marie Vernet to exclusively model his clothing range. In the late 1890s Lady Duff Go
recruited a number of tall statuesque women to model her Lucille brand of clothing
of fashion parades. And in the early 1900s, Jeanne Paquinn became the rst design
her models to public events, and, with Paul Poiret, organized fashion parades featu
own studio models throughout Europe and the United States.

Edward Steichen

In the early 20th century, Paris was the leading cen


fashion design and French designers were warmi
creative potential for Fashion Photography. By 19
Louis, and Henry Seeberger, who had begun their
as postcard photographers, started to publish po
aristocratic and fashionable women in prominent
journals. Around the same time, Lucien Vogel, wh
founded two new fashion-oriented publications, L
du Bon Ton and Les Jardin des Mode, challenged
photographer Edward Steichen to bring his creativ
fashion photography. Steichen rose to the challen
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designs ArtIT!
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magazine. As photographic historian Jesse Alexander noted, Steichen's interventio


considered to ARTISTS
MOVEMENTS
be the rst ever modern photography
TIMELINES IDEAS
shoot. That
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is, photographing t
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garments in such a way as to convey a sense of their physical quality as well as the
appearance, as opposed to simply illustrating the object."

The Rise of the Fashion Magazine

The history of the fashion magazine predates the 20th


potential prototype for fashion illustrations began as ea
17th century, when, in 1672, Jean Donneau de Vise fou
Mercure galante. Publications like The Lady's Magazine
published in Britain between 1770 and 1818, also inclu
illustrations. In France, 19th century publications like Le
Francais and Journal des Dames et des Mondes carried
illustrations too but these relied upon hand-colored eng
their effect. With its debut in 1867, Harper's Bazaar bec
rst American fashion magazine, and Vogue followed s
in 1892. Their emergence coincided with technological
advancements that made it possible to reproduce photographs, and by 1890 new p
techniques allowed for text and photograph to appear on the same page. This deve
boosted the popularity of fashion magazines and radically transformed the format
leading women's magazines. Indeed, by the early 20th century, and with the beginni
proper of modern photography, Vogue emerged as the leading fashion publication w
Harper's Bazaar positioned as its leading rival.
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Vogue and Condé Nast


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It was, above all else, inspired leadership that inform
rise of the modern fashion magazine. In 1905 Cond
bought Vogue and Vanity Fair and directed the mag
toward a greater emphasis on women's fashion an
photography. He introduced inspired innovations su
two-page spread and, later on, color photography. N
appointed Baron Adolph de Meyer, a photographer
for his celebrity photographs, as the rst Vogue hea
photographer. Depicting glamorous women in com
that emphasized mood and atmosphere, de Meyer
aesthetic standard for the magazine. However, it w
appointment of Steichen in 1923 as house photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair,
held for the next fteen years, that de ned both magazines' visual style. Employing
focus of Straight Photography, he created an indelible image of what it was to be a
contemporary, woman.

Harper's Bazaar and Carmel Snow

Harper's Bazaar became a distinctive and pioneering fashion in uence in the 1930s
fashion editor Carmel Snow left Vogue for Harper's in 1932. A huge personality - sh
rumored to hardly ever eat or sleep and functioned on a daily "three-martini-lunch" h
Snow took to the task of reinventing the magazine. Viewing it as a reference "for we
GOT IT!
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women with well-dressed minds," she created a distinctive American look. In 1933 s
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the Hungarian photojournalist Martin Munkacsi to shoot the swimwear "Palm Beac
Munkacsi photographed
MOVEMENTS ARTISTS
Lucile Brokaw running
TIMELINES IDEAS
along PipingSearch
BLOG
Rock beach on Long Is
as Harper's critic Stephen Mooallem noted, the action shot that resulted "would turn
a de ning one for Bazaar [and soon] Bazaar was lled with images of women in mo
the world."

Taking over as editor-in-chief in 1934, Snow hired a dyna


that turned the magazine into a global force. Renowned
and social trendsetter, Diana Vreeland, became the head
and Alexey Brodovitch became the magazine's art direct
Russian émigré, Brodovitch had worked as a graphic des
theatrical designer for Sergei Diaghilev's Ballet Russe, an
dynamic designs re ected a modernist aesthetic. Louise
Wolfe became the head photographer; her color cover im
models in sun-drenched outdoor settings re ected the in
and active modern woman. As fashion critic Charlotte C
wrote, Dahl-Wolfe "and her eagle-eyed, Russian-born art
[Brodovitch] were both itching to banish the stodgy black-and-white society portrait
dominated the burgeoning world of fashion photography. Instead they wanted the i
match their vision for the modern, liberated woman - one who worked, travelled, da
champagne, and lived with such vitality that she'd leap off the page." The team tran
fashion photography for the next two decades, until Louise Dahl-Wolfe left the mag
1958 and Vreeland moved to Vogue in 1962 where she became editor-in-chief until

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The Post War Revival
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Following the "make do and mend" attitude that took hold d

MOVEMENTS ARTISTS WarTIMELINES


II, designers consciously
IDEAS attempt
BLOG to re-embrace femini
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glamour and to revive France's fashion industry. Financed b
Broussac, a clothing and textile manufacturer, Christian Dio
a new spring/summer collection in 1947, intended as he sa
back beauty, feminine clothing, soft rounded shapes and fu
skirts."

Dubbed the "New Look" by Harper's chief Carmel Snow, the


"rebranding" reached its apex a decade later with the Hollyw
musical Funny Face (1957). The lm starred Audrey Hepbu
bookish modern woman (she prefers to dress in black slack
sweater) who travels to the jazz clubs of Montmartre in search of philosophical con
with the father of Existentialism, Jean-Paul Sartre. She doesn't meet Sartre but bec
involved with a fashion photographer, played by Fred Astaire. He slowly "re-feminize
(she of the "funny face"!) who he photographs in a series of fashion shoots in the sh
Paris's most famous landmarks. Astaire's character was modelled on Richard Aved
also worked as advisor and photographer on the lm (and photographed Hepburn f
lm's iconic poster) while the fashion editor, played by a amboyant Kay Thompson
modelled explicitly on Diana Vreeland. Givenchy's designs also played a leading role
lm's "New Look" leading critic Pamela Hutchinson to describe Funny Face as "noth
fashion show." The lm's musical centrepiece "Think Pink" (sung by Thompson) fea
following lyric:

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Green's obscene, brown's taboo

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And there is not the slightest excuse for plum or puce

or chartreuse!

Think pink! forget that Dior says black and rust

Think pink! who cares if the New Look has no bust

Now, I wouldn't presume to tell a woman

what a woman oughtta think,

But tell her if she's gotta think, think pink!

It was Dior (rather than Givenchy) that became the leading fashion house and cont
most to the revitalization of Paris as the world center for fashion. The Dior look bec
iconic in fact that it has continued to in uence later designers including Miuccia Pra
Vivienne Westwood, Thom Browne, and Alexander McQueen. Yet, at the time, the "N
was criticized by some women who found the corseted look and its emphasis on m
de nitions of femininity as repressive. Coco Chanel was amongst those critics: "On
who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable
complained.

The post-war era also saw the emergence of leading women fashion photographer
notably Lillian Bassman. Beginning her career as an assistant to Alexey Brodovitch,
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became art director for Harper's where she was an important mentor to Richard Av
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Robert Frank, and Paul Himmel. Turning to fashion photography in 1947, she exper
the darkroom,ARTISTS
MOVEMENTS using bleach TIMELINES
and burn techniques,
IDEAS and printing
BLOG through unusual mat
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create photographs that were, as art historian Lisa Hostetler noted, "memorable for
emotional atmosphere, impressionistic mood, and subtlety of intimate gestures." B
individualistic approach often clashed with fashion's commercial purposes, howeve
Carmel Snow felt compelled to remind her employee that "You are not here to make
are here to show the buttons and bows." (Bassman was to leave fashion for ne art
photography by the 1970s, though her work has endured through several monogra
retrospectives including one in Hamburg, Germany in 2009.)

CONCEPTS AND TRENDS

Fashion and the City

In 1947, having arrived in Paris to photograph Dior's "New Look," Richard Avedon's
photography took a dramatic turn toward a photojournalistic approach, as he hence
photographed models on city streets and against skyline backdrops. As art critic Co
McDowell described it, Avedon "broke away from the decades-old traditional way of
photographing fashion [...] His photographs were about action. What [he] did was to
movement to some of the most formal clothes in the world and to give them a spir
made them exciting for young women - a rst in formal couture [...] It is no exagger
claim that it was Avedon who matched Dior's masterstroke with his own masterstr
was to make visible the possibilities of the new way of dressing. And he did so by
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The photojournalistic approach, which emphasized dynamism and spontaneity (ov


portraiture), was
MOVEMENTS enthusiastically
ARTISTS promoted
TIMELINES by Alexander
IDEAS BLOG Liberman,
Search art director at V
Alexey Brodovitch at Harper's. Photojournalism dominated fashion photography in t
and was even mimicked in Funny Face (under Avedon's advice). Martin Munkacsi, t
Hungarian photojournalist who turned fashion photographer for Harper's in the 193
in uenced Avedon's innovative approach. In his essay "Think While You Shoot" (193
Munkacsi had written, "Never pose your subjects. Let them move about naturally. A
photographs today are snapshots." And as art critic Colin McDowell added, by intro
"movement to some of the most formal clothes in the world," Avedon had "made th
for young women."

The Swinging Sixties

In the 1960s fashion became less fo


youth culture demanded a "hip" and
look. Sixties fashions employed new
bold colors, and styles that emphas
liberation of the body. In London, thr
iconoclastic fashion photographers
working-class backgrounds: David B
Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy -d
"Black Trinity" by photographer Norm
Parkinson - pioneered the "Swinging London" look. The three men became the rst
fashion photographers. In particular, the "Swinging London" look took on internation
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signi cance when Bailey's photographic feature 'New York: Young Idea goes West',
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the then unknown model Jean Shrimpton, appeared in Vogue in 1962. Shrimpton b
fact the rst "supermodel,"
MOVEMENTS ARTISTS
followed soon thereafter
TIMELINES IDEAS
by Twiggy,
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Veruschka, and Pen
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In the 1960s, new fashion trends included androgynous styles, unisex minimalistic
and hippy fashions, all re ecting the alternative, or counter culture, youth movemen
in the ascendance. The British magazines Queen, emphasizing the celebrities and f
"Swinging London," and Nova, combining innovative fashion with social issues for t
"liberated woman," became trend-setting publications.

David Bailey's swaggering London East End persona was ctionalized in Michelang
Antonioni's Blow-Up (1966). Just as Funny Face had captured the zeitgeist of the 19
fashion magazine, so the "X-rated" Blow-Up encapsulated the mood of freedom and
promiscuity that characterized the London fashion scene during the sixties. The lm
focused on a hedonistic young fashion photographer (played by David Hemings) an
personal and professional relationships he shares with his models. Featuring a Hitc
subplot (Hemings might have inadvertently photographed a dead body on one of h
shoots, which only becomes visible once his image is "blown-up" in his darkroom),
drew praise and criticism in equal measure for its artistry and a new youth sensibili
allowed for nudity and scenes of fornication. In America, indeed, Blow-Up opened w
approval of the Production Code Administration and with a "C" rating ("condemned
Catholic viewers") from the National Catholic O ce for Motion Pictures (neither of
incidentally, prevented the lm from becoming a cultural event and a box o ce hit)

Celebrity Culture
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From its earliest beginnings, fashion photography

MOVEMENTS ARTISTS closely linked


TIMELINES IDEASwith BLOG
celebrity Search
portraiture. That trend
with the rise of silent movies in the early 20th cent
arrived in 1927) and fashion photographers often t
images of silent lm stars, as exempli ed by Edwa
Steichen's famous 1924 portrait of Gloria Swanson
Fair. Aristocratic women and social movers and sh
modelled for the camera, as exempli ed in Man Ra
iconic 1924 portrait of the art collector and socialit
Guggenheim. Images of public gures went some
promote fashion as an aesthetic pursuit and helpe
and consumer attention on designer garments and accessories.

Indeed, the fashion industry has enjoyed a reciprocal relationship with the entertain
art industries. For instance, the photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe is credited with dis
Lauren Bacall who was offered her rst screen test after appearing in Dahl-Wolfe's
for Harper's Bazaar. And in the 1950s, Hubert de Givenchy, then still relatively unkno
designed Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe for the lm Sabrina (1954). Since the sixties,
Photography has turned its attention towards pop musicians, as seen, for instance,
Leibovitz's photograph Untitled (Yoko Ono; John Lennon) (1980) and Stephen Meise
extensive working relationship with Madonna that began with her album Like a Virg

Celebrity culture also gave rise to the birth of the supermodel. Though the idea of a
model can in fact be traced back to Lisa Fonssagrives whose career began in the 1
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Shrimpton and Twiggy in the sixties. Peter Lindbergh's British Vogue cover image in
brought together
MOVEMENTS Naomi Campbell,
ARTISTS Cindy Crawford,
TIMELINES IDEAS Linda Evangelista,
BLOG Search Tatiana Patit
Christy Turlington, had such an impact on the public that the models became know
collectively as "The Big Five". Male supermodels appeared during the 1980s with M
Schenkenberg often cited as the rst. He was soon joined by Mark Wahlberg, Joel W
Pearson, and Renauld White, while more recently fashion magazines have made st
androgynous and transgender models, including Andreja Pejic and Valentina Samp

Fashion Film

While the fashion industry has provided rich source material for commercial cinem
more complex relationship has existed between fashion photography and experime
cinema (to which the fashion industry came relatively late). Erwin Blumenfeld, a Ge
artist who began working as a fashion photographer in the late 1930s, was an early
the fashion lm, though his efforts made little wider impact. He made a series of sh
named Beauty in Motion (1958-64), and promoted them to his clients Helena Rubin
Estée Lauder who rejected them as being too experimental. Subsequently, Richard
whose interest in movement was in uenced by commercial cinema, and Guy Bourd
both explored the grainy quality of Super 8 lm. While the experimentations informe
photographic stills, they were not meant to be viewed by the general public and bec
known only much later in archival collections (such as the 2002 collection Compuls
Viewing: the Films of Guy Bourdin).

Working on the maxim "clothes are made to be seen in movement," Nick Knight has
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"father" By using
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fashion youIn
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promote fashion lm. SHOWstudio.com has had an industry wide impact, with Prad
Digital), and Vogue
MOVEMENTS all developing
ARTISTS video and
TIMELINES digital sites
IDEAS BLOGfor fashion
Search lm. Knight exp
late rise of fashion lm by noting a quality that is at odds with traditional lm-makin
lm isn't like ordinary lm, and shouldn't look to those references; it should be more
fashion photography. Fashion lm is just moving fashion photography, its garments
movement. The medium is non-narrative [...] fashion lm needs to look at itself as a
thing from regular lm, or conventional lm. Remove the narratives and use the cod
fashion photography."

Since the mid-1980s, leading fashion houses have also moved into television and
commercials using renowned lm directors - or "Auteur" - to bring their products to
screen. Martin Scorsese has worked for Armani, David Lynch for Gucci, Sophia Cop
Marni x H&M, Spike Jonze for Gap, and Wes Anderson for Prada. In contemporary f
leading designers, including Prada, LV, Moschino, Chloe, Max Mara, Y-3, Givenchy, a
Massimo Dutti have used cutting edge videography to create television and online
commercials that allude to the history of the experimental art lm. This developme
perfectly illustrated in 2010 when Lynch wrote and directed Lady Blue Shanghai, an
"17-minute advertising event" starring the sophisticated French actress Marion Cot
lm was commissioned with the goal of launching the new Christian Dior website a
had agreed to the project because it had allowed him to opportunity work in "a new
genre devoid of heavy handed-branding." For his part, John Galliano (who "inspired"
had chosen Lynch because his surrealistic sensibility brought "the style, the myster
suspense" to the Dior brand.

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Connection to Modern Art
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Always attuned to the leading trends in the art world (it can be argued that Steichen
Photography and
MOVEMENTS
Man Ray'sTIMELINES
ARTISTS
Surrealism established
IDEAS
the lookSearch
BLOG
of fashion photograph
1920s and 1930s) the fashion world has been most strongly in uenced by Surrealis
Pop Art. Vogue featured the paintings of Giorgio de Chirico and Salvador Dali, along
series of Man Ray's rayographs published in the early 1920s. Photographers includ
Beaton, George Hoyningen-Huene, and Horst P. Horst also explored Surrealistic trea
well into the late 1930s. However, the avant-gardist component often con icted wit
commercial needs of Fashion Photography, as in 1938 when Vogue editor Edna Wo
Chase directed her photographic staff thus: "Concentrate completely on showing th
light it for this purpose and if that can't be done with art then art be damned. Show

Despite their con icts of commercial interest, art movements continued to inform t
world, and fashion photographers often drew upon the avant-garde for inspiration.
war era, for instance, photographers like Irving Penn and Erwin Blumenfeld re ecte
emphasis on simpli cation and abstraction, as seen in Penn's Black & White Cover (
Patchett) (1950), and Blumenfeld's "doe eye" 1950 cover for Vogue where Patchett's
evoked with a single glamorous eye, red lips, and a beauty mark.

It was Pop Art, however, that had the widest ranging impact on the fashion world. C
with the rise of 1960s youth culture, Pop Art's brash colors and its emphasis on gla
consumer culture in uenced contemporary fashion design and photography with t
Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein providing potent inspiration. At the same time, th
industry has in uenced some art movements including the Fourteenth Street Scho
images of middle-class women shoppers from the 1920s to the 1940s was in uen
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department store. Later, fashion photography's preoccupation with celebrity culture


glamorous depictions
MOVEMENTS ARTISTS of consumer cultureIDEAS
TIMELINES informed Pop ArtSearch
BLOG as demonstrated in W
many images of Marilyn Monroe. More recently, Barbara Kruger's Conceptual work
appropriated images taken from fashion magazines to create a feminist critique of
consumerism, as seen, for instance, in her iconic I shop therefore I am (1990).

LATER DEVELOPMENTS - AFTER FASHION


PHOTOGRAPHY
Combining features on fashion, music and contemporary culture, the 1980s saw th
emergence of the so-called "New Style" publication. In 1980 Terry Jones, a former a
at Vogue, launched i-D magazine, a bi-monthly that was hand-stapled and written in
typewritten (Courier) text. The magazine was designed to resemble a fanzine and it
placed emphasis on youth culture and street style. For its fashion features, i-D favo
professional models and alternative takes on street fashion. Photographer Steve Jo
played a pioneering role, as he developed what became known as "straight up" phot
shooting style that showed the model in full (head-to-toe).

i-D and magazines like it duly in uenced the "grunge style" of the 1990s "and promo
became dubbed later as "heroin chic." The term "heroin chic" - models were thin to t
emaciation with pale skin and dark-circled eyes - was attached initially to the "anti-
supermodel" Kate Moss who came to symbolize the look. In 1992 Moss signed wit
Klein, appearing in a series of underwear (including a topless pairing with a young M
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British Vogue shot by Corinne Day, caused public uproar and Moss (and the fashion
generally) wasARTISTS
MOVEMENTS held to account by the media
TIMELINES for celebrating
IDEAS BLOG dangerously
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choices. Day, and others including David Sims and Jason Evans, subsequently ado
more documentary approach to their Fashion Photography.

Disillusioned with his photography course at the London College of Printing, Rankin
friend Jefferson Hack, started their own campus youth magazine, Dazed and Confu
just Dazed) in 1991. The magazine was promoted on the London nightclub scene a
became a cult reference for emerging artists working in the elds of fashion, music
photography, literature and design. Over the years, Dazed has also helped promote
humanitarian causes and has covered issues ranging from the AIDS crisis in South
Islamophobia, climate change, breast cancer awareness and LGBT rights. For his p
has gone to become one of the world's most famous portraitist and has shot the w
models as well as personalities and VIPs ranging from Queen Elizabeth II to Tony B
Madonna to The Rolling Stones; Jay-Z to Kendall Jenner; Mikhail Gorbachev to Britn

The fashion industry is not immune to world events and has had to respond to ethi
concerns in rst decades of the 21st century. The use of sweatshop labor or prison
Southern Asia, and the environmental effects of the manufacturing process, for ins
initiated a shift in emphasis towards a more diverse representation and working to
greater social awareness. However, Fashion Photography has never lost sight of th
honored maxim sex and controversy (both at once, ideally) "sells". In 2003 Mario Te
advertisement for Gucci was much less about the clothing and more about publicit
Gucci "G" provocatively shaved into the pubic hair of a female model.
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Celebrity endorsement has also continued to be a driving force for the industry. In 2
actress Winona
MOVEMENTS Ryder was arrested
ARTISTS TIMELINESfor shoplifting
IDEAS in a Saks Search
BLOG department store in Be
Ryder arrived for her court hearing bedecked in a Marc Jacobs dress. Seizing on a
opportunity, Jacobs duly hired Ryder who was photographed by Juergen Teller in a
playful and irreverent photoshoot. Indeed, fashion houses are alert to the wide allur
rebellious and "troubled" spirits with Miley Cyrus working for Marc Jacobs, Lady Ga
Versace and Lindsay Lohan for Miu Miu.

Current advertising campaigns have also tapped into the yearning for nostalgia wit
Roberts (Givenchy), Madonna (Versace), and Mila Kunis (Miss Dior) all featuring in
monotone shoots.

The most profound shift for the fashion magazine has come in the way Fashion Ph
is now consumed. With the rise of Instagram and fashion blogs, the industry has ha
new strategies. Indeed, some Fashion Photography may not even nd its way onto
magazine page at all. As the idea that images can be consumed, "liked" and "retwee
rise of "lookbooks" - which are cheaper to produce and distribute - had come to dom
digital mediums. Seen by many as a new democracy in what has been regarded as
industry, others see these technological developments as bringing about the demis
fashion industry's long and proud avant-gardist heritage.

MOST IMPORTANT ART

Gloria Swanson (1924)


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Artist: Edward Steichen

MOVEMENTS Considered
ARTISTS the father ofIDEAS
TIMELINES modernBLOG
Fashion Photography,
Search Steichen
portrait of silent movie star Gloria Swanson remains one of his m
celebrated commercial works. Produced while he was house
photographer at both Vanity Fair and Vogue, Steichen's image me
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