Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Fashion Photography -
History and Concepts
Started: 1850
Ended: Present
TABLE OF CONTENTS "Many photographers feel their client is the subject. My client is a woman in
Summary Kansas who reads Vogue. I'm trying to intrigue, stimulate, feed her. My
Key Ideas responsibility is to the reader. The severe portrait that is not the greatest joy in
Artworks
Beginnings the world to the subject may be enormously interesting to the reader."
Concepts and Trends
Later Developments
Resources
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Helmut Newton Photography was to have a symbiotic relationship with celebrity portraiture that ha
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----------------- The birth of the fashion model (that is, a fashion model who was not already a cele
More Top Artists
be traced back to as early as 1853 when Charles Frederick Worth, a French designe
Marie Vernet to exclusively model his clothing range. In the late 1890s Lady Duff Go
recruited a number of tall statuesque women to model her Lucille brand of clothing
of fashion parades. And in the early 1900s, Jeanne Paquinn became the rst design
her models to public events, and, with Paul Poiret, organized fashion parades featu
own studio models throughout Europe and the United States.
Edward Steichen
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Harper's Bazaar became a distinctive and pioneering fashion in uence in the 1930s
fashion editor Carmel Snow left Vogue for Harper's in 1932. A huge personality - sh
rumored to hardly ever eat or sleep and functioned on a daily "three-martini-lunch" h
Snow took to the task of reinventing the magazine. Viewing it as a reference "for we
GOT IT!
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women with well-dressed minds," she created a distinctive American look. In 1933 s
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the Hungarian photojournalist Martin Munkacsi to shoot the swimwear "Palm Beac
Munkacsi photographed
MOVEMENTS ARTISTS
Lucile Brokaw running
TIMELINES IDEAS
along PipingSearch
BLOG
Rock beach on Long Is
as Harper's critic Stephen Mooallem noted, the action shot that resulted "would turn
a de ning one for Bazaar [and soon] Bazaar was lled with images of women in mo
the world."
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The Post War Revival
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or chartreuse!
It was Dior (rather than Givenchy) that became the leading fashion house and cont
most to the revitalization of Paris as the world center for fashion. The Dior look bec
iconic in fact that it has continued to in uence later designers including Miuccia Pra
Vivienne Westwood, Thom Browne, and Alexander McQueen. Yet, at the time, the "N
was criticized by some women who found the corseted look and its emphasis on m
de nitions of femininity as repressive. Coco Chanel was amongst those critics: "On
who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable
complained.
The post-war era also saw the emergence of leading women fashion photographer
notably Lillian Bassman. Beginning her career as an assistant to Alexey Brodovitch,
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became art director for Harper's where she was an important mentor to Richard Av
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Robert Frank, and Paul Himmel. Turning to fashion photography in 1947, she exper
the darkroom,ARTISTS
MOVEMENTS using bleach TIMELINES
and burn techniques,
IDEAS and printing
BLOG through unusual mat
Search
create photographs that were, as art historian Lisa Hostetler noted, "memorable for
emotional atmosphere, impressionistic mood, and subtlety of intimate gestures." B
individualistic approach often clashed with fashion's commercial purposes, howeve
Carmel Snow felt compelled to remind her employee that "You are not here to make
are here to show the buttons and bows." (Bassman was to leave fashion for ne art
photography by the 1970s, though her work has endured through several monogra
retrospectives including one in Hamburg, Germany in 2009.)
In 1947, having arrived in Paris to photograph Dior's "New Look," Richard Avedon's
photography took a dramatic turn toward a photojournalistic approach, as he hence
photographed models on city streets and against skyline backdrops. As art critic Co
McDowell described it, Avedon "broke away from the decades-old traditional way of
photographing fashion [...] His photographs were about action. What [he] did was to
movement to some of the most formal clothes in the world and to give them a spir
made them exciting for young women - a rst in formal couture [...] It is no exagger
claim that it was Avedon who matched Dior's masterstroke with his own masterstr
was to make visible the possibilities of the new way of dressing. And he did so by
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the then unknown model Jean Shrimpton, appeared in Vogue in 1962. Shrimpton b
fact the rst "supermodel,"
MOVEMENTS ARTISTS
followed soon thereafter
TIMELINES IDEAS
by Twiggy,
BLOG
Veruschka, and Pen
Search
In the 1960s, new fashion trends included androgynous styles, unisex minimalistic
and hippy fashions, all re ecting the alternative, or counter culture, youth movemen
in the ascendance. The British magazines Queen, emphasizing the celebrities and f
"Swinging London," and Nova, combining innovative fashion with social issues for t
"liberated woman," became trend-setting publications.
David Bailey's swaggering London East End persona was ctionalized in Michelang
Antonioni's Blow-Up (1966). Just as Funny Face had captured the zeitgeist of the 19
fashion magazine, so the "X-rated" Blow-Up encapsulated the mood of freedom and
promiscuity that characterized the London fashion scene during the sixties. The lm
focused on a hedonistic young fashion photographer (played by David Hemings) an
personal and professional relationships he shares with his models. Featuring a Hitc
subplot (Hemings might have inadvertently photographed a dead body on one of h
shoots, which only becomes visible once his image is "blown-up" in his darkroom),
drew praise and criticism in equal measure for its artistry and a new youth sensibili
allowed for nudity and scenes of fornication. In America, indeed, Blow-Up opened w
approval of the Production Code Administration and with a "C" rating ("condemned
Catholic viewers") from the National Catholic O ce for Motion Pictures (neither of
incidentally, prevented the lm from becoming a cultural event and a box o ce hit)
Celebrity Culture
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Indeed, the fashion industry has enjoyed a reciprocal relationship with the entertain
art industries. For instance, the photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe is credited with dis
Lauren Bacall who was offered her rst screen test after appearing in Dahl-Wolfe's
for Harper's Bazaar. And in the 1950s, Hubert de Givenchy, then still relatively unkno
designed Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe for the lm Sabrina (1954). Since the sixties,
Photography has turned its attention towards pop musicians, as seen, for instance,
Leibovitz's photograph Untitled (Yoko Ono; John Lennon) (1980) and Stephen Meise
extensive working relationship with Madonna that began with her album Like a Virg
Celebrity culture also gave rise to the birth of the supermodel. Though the idea of a
model can in fact be traced back to Lisa Fonssagrives whose career began in the 1
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Shrimpton and Twiggy in the sixties. Peter Lindbergh's British Vogue cover image in
brought together
MOVEMENTS Naomi Campbell,
ARTISTS Cindy Crawford,
TIMELINES IDEAS Linda Evangelista,
BLOG Search Tatiana Patit
Christy Turlington, had such an impact on the public that the models became know
collectively as "The Big Five". Male supermodels appeared during the 1980s with M
Schenkenberg often cited as the rst. He was soon joined by Mark Wahlberg, Joel W
Pearson, and Renauld White, while more recently fashion magazines have made st
androgynous and transgender models, including Andreja Pejic and Valentina Samp
Fashion Film
While the fashion industry has provided rich source material for commercial cinem
more complex relationship has existed between fashion photography and experime
cinema (to which the fashion industry came relatively late). Erwin Blumenfeld, a Ge
artist who began working as a fashion photographer in the late 1930s, was an early
the fashion lm, though his efforts made little wider impact. He made a series of sh
named Beauty in Motion (1958-64), and promoted them to his clients Helena Rubin
Estée Lauder who rejected them as being too experimental. Subsequently, Richard
whose interest in movement was in uenced by commercial cinema, and Guy Bourd
both explored the grainy quality of Super 8 lm. While the experimentations informe
photographic stills, they were not meant to be viewed by the general public and bec
known only much later in archival collections (such as the 2002 collection Compuls
Viewing: the Films of Guy Bourdin).
Working on the maxim "clothes are made to be seen in movement," Nick Knight has
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fashion youIn
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promote fashion lm. SHOWstudio.com has had an industry wide impact, with Prad
Digital), and Vogue
MOVEMENTS all developing
ARTISTS video and
TIMELINES digital sites
IDEAS BLOGfor fashion
Search lm. Knight exp
late rise of fashion lm by noting a quality that is at odds with traditional lm-makin
lm isn't like ordinary lm, and shouldn't look to those references; it should be more
fashion photography. Fashion lm is just moving fashion photography, its garments
movement. The medium is non-narrative [...] fashion lm needs to look at itself as a
thing from regular lm, or conventional lm. Remove the narratives and use the cod
fashion photography."
Since the mid-1980s, leading fashion houses have also moved into television and
commercials using renowned lm directors - or "Auteur" - to bring their products to
screen. Martin Scorsese has worked for Armani, David Lynch for Gucci, Sophia Cop
Marni x H&M, Spike Jonze for Gap, and Wes Anderson for Prada. In contemporary f
leading designers, including Prada, LV, Moschino, Chloe, Max Mara, Y-3, Givenchy, a
Massimo Dutti have used cutting edge videography to create television and online
commercials that allude to the history of the experimental art lm. This developme
perfectly illustrated in 2010 when Lynch wrote and directed Lady Blue Shanghai, an
"17-minute advertising event" starring the sophisticated French actress Marion Cot
lm was commissioned with the goal of launching the new Christian Dior website a
had agreed to the project because it had allowed him to opportunity work in "a new
genre devoid of heavy handed-branding." For his part, John Galliano (who "inspired"
had chosen Lynch because his surrealistic sensibility brought "the style, the myster
suspense" to the Dior brand.
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Connection to Modern Art
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Always attuned to the leading trends in the art world (it can be argued that Steichen
Photography and
MOVEMENTS
Man Ray'sTIMELINES
ARTISTS
Surrealism established
IDEAS
the lookSearch
BLOG
of fashion photograph
1920s and 1930s) the fashion world has been most strongly in uenced by Surrealis
Pop Art. Vogue featured the paintings of Giorgio de Chirico and Salvador Dali, along
series of Man Ray's rayographs published in the early 1920s. Photographers includ
Beaton, George Hoyningen-Huene, and Horst P. Horst also explored Surrealistic trea
well into the late 1930s. However, the avant-gardist component often con icted wit
commercial needs of Fashion Photography, as in 1938 when Vogue editor Edna Wo
Chase directed her photographic staff thus: "Concentrate completely on showing th
light it for this purpose and if that can't be done with art then art be damned. Show
Despite their con icts of commercial interest, art movements continued to inform t
world, and fashion photographers often drew upon the avant-garde for inspiration.
war era, for instance, photographers like Irving Penn and Erwin Blumenfeld re ecte
emphasis on simpli cation and abstraction, as seen in Penn's Black & White Cover (
Patchett) (1950), and Blumenfeld's "doe eye" 1950 cover for Vogue where Patchett's
evoked with a single glamorous eye, red lips, and a beauty mark.
It was Pop Art, however, that had the widest ranging impact on the fashion world. C
with the rise of 1960s youth culture, Pop Art's brash colors and its emphasis on gla
consumer culture in uenced contemporary fashion design and photography with t
Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein providing potent inspiration. At the same time, th
industry has in uenced some art movements including the Fourteenth Street Scho
images of middle-class women shoppers from the 1920s to the 1940s was in uen
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i-D and magazines like it duly in uenced the "grunge style" of the 1990s "and promo
became dubbed later as "heroin chic." The term "heroin chic" - models were thin to t
emaciation with pale skin and dark-circled eyes - was attached initially to the "anti-
supermodel" Kate Moss who came to symbolize the look. In 1992 Moss signed wit
Klein, appearing in a series of underwear (including a topless pairing with a young M
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British Vogue shot by Corinne Day, caused public uproar and Moss (and the fashion
generally) wasARTISTS
MOVEMENTS held to account by the media
TIMELINES for celebrating
IDEAS BLOG dangerously
Search unhealthy
choices. Day, and others including David Sims and Jason Evans, subsequently ado
more documentary approach to their Fashion Photography.
Disillusioned with his photography course at the London College of Printing, Rankin
friend Jefferson Hack, started their own campus youth magazine, Dazed and Confu
just Dazed) in 1991. The magazine was promoted on the London nightclub scene a
became a cult reference for emerging artists working in the elds of fashion, music
photography, literature and design. Over the years, Dazed has also helped promote
humanitarian causes and has covered issues ranging from the AIDS crisis in South
Islamophobia, climate change, breast cancer awareness and LGBT rights. For his p
has gone to become one of the world's most famous portraitist and has shot the w
models as well as personalities and VIPs ranging from Queen Elizabeth II to Tony B
Madonna to The Rolling Stones; Jay-Z to Kendall Jenner; Mikhail Gorbachev to Britn
The fashion industry is not immune to world events and has had to respond to ethi
concerns in rst decades of the 21st century. The use of sweatshop labor or prison
Southern Asia, and the environmental effects of the manufacturing process, for ins
initiated a shift in emphasis towards a more diverse representation and working to
greater social awareness. However, Fashion Photography has never lost sight of th
honored maxim sex and controversy (both at once, ideally) "sells". In 2003 Mario Te
advertisement for Gucci was much less about the clothing and more about publicit
Gucci "G" provocatively shaved into the pubic hair of a female model.
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Celebrity endorsement has also continued to be a driving force for the industry. In 2
actress Winona
MOVEMENTS Ryder was arrested
ARTISTS TIMELINESfor shoplifting
IDEAS in a Saks Search
BLOG department store in Be
Ryder arrived for her court hearing bedecked in a Marc Jacobs dress. Seizing on a
opportunity, Jacobs duly hired Ryder who was photographed by Juergen Teller in a
playful and irreverent photoshoot. Indeed, fashion houses are alert to the wide allur
rebellious and "troubled" spirits with Miley Cyrus working for Marc Jacobs, Lady Ga
Versace and Lindsay Lohan for Miu Miu.
Current advertising campaigns have also tapped into the yearning for nostalgia wit
Roberts (Givenchy), Madonna (Versace), and Mila Kunis (Miss Dior) all featuring in
monotone shoots.
The most profound shift for the fashion magazine has come in the way Fashion Ph
is now consumed. With the rise of Instagram and fashion blogs, the industry has ha
new strategies. Indeed, some Fashion Photography may not even nd its way onto
magazine page at all. As the idea that images can be consumed, "liked" and "retwee
rise of "lookbooks" - which are cheaper to produce and distribute - had come to dom
digital mediums. Seen by many as a new democracy in what has been regarded as
industry, others see these technological developments as bringing about the demis
fashion industry's long and proud avant-gardist heritage.
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MOVEMENTS Considered
ARTISTS the father ofIDEAS
TIMELINES modernBLOG
Fashion Photography,
Search Steichen
portrait of silent movie star Gloria Swanson remains one of his m
celebrated commercial works. Produced while he was house
photographer at both Vanity Fair and Vogue, Steichen's image me
Read More ...
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