Shaving Cream

Proraso Shaving Cream common ingredients of 3 types:

Water, Stearic Acid, Coconut oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Parfum, Sodium
Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Metasilicate, Tetrasodium
EDTA, HEC.

With:

1. Refreshing & Toning: Menthol, Camphor, Eucalyptol, Eucalyptus Oil.

2. Soothing & Nourishing: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Sandalwood Oil.
3. Protective & Moisturizing: Aloe Vera Extract, Licorice Extract, VE

Function:

 Water: Filling
 Stearic Acid: Soap Making, surfactant, thickening and lather stabilizing agent
 Coconut Oil: fatty acid soap making and emollient
 Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide: Lye to soap making
 Glycerin: Humectant
 Lactic Acid: pH adjuster
 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate: Surfactant for lather
 Tinogard TT (Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate) as BHT: Antioxidant and glossy
appearance for the finished product and hardness increasing agent
 EDTA: chelating agent
 HEC: Gelling and thickener agent

General Information for shaving Cream

1. Manufacturing Process:
A. In a mean Tank heat water to 75 degrees.
B. In separate vessel melt stearic acid, TEA, PG, t20, etc. At 75 degrees and add to A.
C. In other tank melt lanolin with paraffin oil and SLS. Add with mixing to main tank, stir until
homogenous
D. Keep cooling with slow mixing till 35 degrees and add perfume and preservative.
2. Filling Process:
Filled in tubes, fitted with caps. After the bottom of the tube has been crimped, the product is ready for
shipment and stocking on a store shelf.
Note: It is normal practice amongst manufacturers to store the cream for some time (5 to 7 days) before
packing to allow the structure to develop. The slight change in the consistency and foam stability during the
immediate post-manufacturing period should be taken into account when testing production batches of
lather shave cream.

3. Quality Control:
 pH Value (5-10) for 10% solution.
 Heigh of the foam if it is spray package (Most contain 4 to 5% of propellant only because high
amount would dry the shaving cream as it came out of the can).
 Absorption rate for spray: spray the foam on paper and see how long does it take till the bottom of
the paper shows moisture.
 Microbiologist test
 Viscosity
  Density

4. Ingredients:
 Lather Shaving Cream has 30 to 50% soaps
 Stearic acid alone does not produce a sufficiently voluminous lather; it should be added with
Coconut oil. In general, the ratio between them is about 25% Coconut Oil and 75% Stearic acid.
 High level of Sodium soaps tends to be thick and stringy and not lathering enough. Potassium
soaps alone are not stable; A mixer of Sodium and Potassium Hydroxides is used to saponify the
fatty acids.
 It is common practice to adjust the quantity of base so that formulation contains 1-3 % Free Fatty
acids. Free acids improve the appearance and lubricity of the foam and increase foam stability.
 Humectants are added (Glycerin, sorbitol, Propylene Glycol, etc..) from 3 to 10% in order to
prevent premature drying out of the cream. It gives soft feeling. An improvement in the properties
of the cream and the lather if glycerin is replaced by 1, 3 Butylene Glycol.
 Emollients (Mineral Oil, IPM, Lanolin, oils, Dimethicone Copolyol, etc…) should be kept at low
level (1to 2 %) to supplement the effect of free fatty acids.
 Almond Oil: for dry skin
 Grape Seed oil: Antioxidant and calming oil
 Tea Tree Oil: against bacteria and blemishes
 Water soluble polymer (PVP, Polyacrylic acid, etc..) improve lubrication and increase
foam stability
 Perfume: Soap Compatible perfume at level 0.15 – 0.65%
 Emulsifiers: Polysorbate 20, Stearic acid, Calcium Acetate Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol,
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Monostearate and Palmitic acid.
 Anionic and Nonionic Surfactants to improve emulsion stability (Glyceryl monostearate), Wetting
properties of the foam (SLS), Water dispersability of the foam and shaving debris (Fatty
Alcohols), Foam stability (Lauric diethanolamide), and emolliency (Lanolin).