Company Profile Line Development Merchandising Plan

Brittany Morris
Seminar in Fashion Merchandising
2019
Table of Contents
Part 1: Company Profile
Company Profile 4
Financial Performance 5
Brand Strategy 6
Competition 7-9
SWOT Analysis 10

Part 2: Line Development

Proposal 12
Target Market 13-14
Trend Analysis 15-17
Color, Print & Fabric Stories 18
Concept Boards 19-20
Line Plan 21-24
Key Items 25

Part 3: Merchandising Plan

Fabric Quick Costing 27
Six-Month Merchandising Plan 28-29
Ratio Distribution 30-31
Assortment Plans 32-33
Purchase Order 34

References 35-38

2
Part 1: Company Profile

3
Company Profile

Location: H&M (Hennes & Mauritz) is a publicly owned

corporation with a headquarters based out of Stockholm,
Sweden (Olito, 2018).
Number of Stores: According to H&M Group, H&M currently
have 4,420 brick and mortar stores around the world (H&M
Group, 2019).
Geographic Distribution: H&M are present in 71 physical
markets around the world. They have a digital presence in 49
markets (H&M Group, 2019).
Organizational Structure: The H&M Group owns multiple
subsidiaries consisting of H&M, & Other Stories, COS, Weekday,
Monki, ARKET, H&M Home and Afound (Hanbury, 2019).

4
Financial Performance

• H&M’s annual reports are in Swedish Krona (kr).

• From the period of December 2017 – November 2018, H&M reported
210 billion kr in net sales and 110 billion kr in gross profit. In the 2018
fiscal year, the H&M Group reports a net profit of 12.65 billion kr
(Market Insider, 2019).
• As shown in Figure 1, H&M’s net profit has been steadily dropping
since 2015. From December 2017 to November 2018, net profit
dropped 22 percent. However, total sales increased five percent
(AFP, 2019).
• Unpredictable weather is just one of the many external factors that
has continuously damaged H&M’s profit margins. Their slower supply
chain process makes the company unequipped at dealing with
changes in the market like the competition (Verbergt, 2016).
• Additionally, H&M was stuck with roughly $4.3 billion worth of unsold
clothing in brick-and-mortar stores due to competition from online
retailers. The store is present online, but delays and limited product
availability have been major drawbacks (Lieber, 2018).
• Sales improved nine percent in the third quarter when H&M began
to close some stores and shift to focusing on digital platforms with
new logistics systems implemented (Soderpalm, 2018).

Figure 1: 2-D Stacked Bar Chart depicting the H&M Group's Financial
Performance (Values in Swedish Krona - kr)

2018

2017

2016

2015

2014

- kr 50,000 kr 100,000 kr 150,000 kr 200,000 kr 250,000 kr

Net Profit Cost of Revenue (Net Revenue- Gross Profit) Operating Expenses (Gross Profit- Net Profit)

5
Brand Strategy

• The “H&M Spirit” values fashion and quality at the best price in the
most sustainable way possible (“The H&M Way”, 2013).
• Mission Statement: H&M’s mission statement aims to make well-
designed clothing accessible as well as sustainable so it can continue
for years to come (H&M Group, 2019).
• Categories of Merchandise: H&M offers apparel ($2.99-$349.00),
footwear ($5.99-$249.00), accessories ($5.99-$299.00) and beauty
($1.99-$49.99) for women, men and kids. They also carry specific
lines for teenagers, sleepwear & lingerie, sportswear, plus sizes and
maternity wear, as well as a home section where prices range from
($2.99-$499.99) (H&M, 2019). H&M would be classified as a “budget”
brand (Thomasson, 2014).
• Retail Distribution Strategy: H&M products are only carried at the
company’s brick-and-mortar locations and online directly from their
website.
• Factories/Mills: H&M does not own any factories or mills; they instead
work with over 800 independent suppliers around the world (Elks,
2019). They are the first company to publicly list specific supplier
details for each article of clothing and list the names and locations of
each factory and mill they work with in an effort to maintain
transparency in their sustainability efforts.
• 80% of H&M’s suppliers are based in Asia (Hanbury, 2018).

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Competition

• H&M’s most threatening competitors are global companies Zara and

UNIQLO.
• These three brands dominate the fast fashion industry and appeal to
a similar customer base. All three brands offer menswear,
womenswear, and childrenswear at budget to moderate price
ranges.
• All three brands are also a part of larger parent companies who
dominate a large segment of the fashion industry.
• H&M’s current market share in the US market is $3.92, Zara’s parent
company Inditex is $15.77, and UNIQLO’s parent company Fast
Retailing is $61.04 (Google Finance, 2019).
• The fast fashion industry as a whole is valued at $1.4 trillion (Singh,
2017).
• Due to a lack of statistics available about the fast fashion segment of
the global apparel industry, the revenue of H&M, Zara and UNIQLO
was compared to the entire industry’s 2018 revenue.

Figure 2: Pie Chart Depicting Global Fast-Fashion Market 2019

H&M 1%
Zara 1%
UNIQLO 1%

H&M: $19.9 billion

Zara: $18.9 billion
UNIQLO: $8.1 billion
Remaining Market: $1.4 trillion

H&M Zara UNIQLO Remaining Market

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Figure 3.1 H&M

Teens
Womens Mens Kids Home
(DIvided)

Shoes Apparel Accessories Beauty

Tops/Blouse Intimates/
Bottoms Outerwear Plus Size Sportswear
s/Tees/Knits Sleepwear

Figure 3.2
Zara

Womens Mens Kids Teens (TRF) Home

Shoes Apparel Accessories Beauty

Tops/Blouse Intimates/
Bottoms Outerwear Suiting Sportswear
s/Tees/Knits Sleepwear

Figure 3.3 UNIQLO

Womens Mens Kids Baby

Shoes Apparel Accessories

Tops/Blouse Dresses & Innerwear

Bottoms Outerwear Activewear
s/Tees/Knits Jumpsuits & Lounge

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• As shown in Figure 3, all three brands have very similar product
categories and offerings.
• UNIQLO differs the most from its competition by carrying a baby line,
whereas Zara and H&M just offer a general “kids” collection. UNIQLO
also frequently collaborates with companies target to children such
as Mickey Mouse and Marvel (UNIQLO, 2019).
• The other brands offer products that are unique to them. While both
H&M and Zara have collections intended for younger teen
audiences, TRF and Divided, H&M emphasizes their plus size
offerings while Zara pushes their suiting and more tailored pieces.
• It is important to note that while H&M and UNIQLO outsource their
production, Zara is vertically integrated and owns and controls all
elements of their supply chain, which allows for rapid product
turnover. New items are designed and hit the floor in as little as a
month (Parietti, 2019).

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SWOT Analysis
Strengths
-Perhaps its biggest strength, H&M frequently
collaborates with other designers on limited capsule
collections. The company often works with high-end
designers like Erdem and Stella McCartney to create
exclusivity for certain product lines and attract new
customers (WWD Staff, 2008).
-The affordable pricing is great for those who are looking
for trendier novelty pieces that they won’t necessarily
wear for a long time (TFL, 2018).
-H&M subsidiaries such as & Other Stores and COS are
higher end brands that appeal to a different
demographic than H&M stores. They are performing well
financially and are a beneficial source of revenue for the
H&M Group when H&M is struggling (Tyler, 2019).
-With 4,420 physical stores around the world, H&M is
truly present in every retail market (H&M Group, 2019)
-As a sustainability initiative, if you drop off used clothing
to donate at any H&M store, you will receive 15% off your
entire purchase (Olito, 2018).
Opportunities
-Vertical integration and full control over supply chain to
speed up apparel production would help H&M react
faster to external factors of the industry and compete
with fast-fashion competitors that have product
turnaround as fast as 1 month (Parietti, 2019).
-H&M needs to continue to focus on expanding their e-
commerce channels while slowing down the opening of
new brick and mortar stores. The company announced it
will close 170 stores, but it still plans on opening 360 new
ones. In the digital age where online sales are essential,
H&M needs to expand online presence to more markets
globally (Danziger, 2019).
-Supply is far exceeding demand in H&M’s physical
stores, where unsold merchandise is being marked down
to get rid of it. To lessen the number of markdowns in
the future, products could be priced lower initially as an
incentive to customers
(Mulier & Molin, 2019).
-In H&M’s new initiatives to be considered “sustainable”
in the eyes of the consumer, they are creating
“sustainable” products without explicitly stating what it is
about these garments that is sustainable. Something as
simple as a label in the clothing would have a positive
impact on brand image (Bain, 2019).
Weaknesses
-Too much inventory has forced H&M to mark down large
quantities of product. They haven’t been able to move
product fast enough in the brick-and-mortar stores,
leaving the stores bogged down with too much product
(Tyler, 2018). In June 2018, the brand had over $4 million in
unsold clothing (Tyler, 2019).
-H&M’s effort to keep up with competitors and shift online
has been a very slow process, resulting in an 11% decline in
sales in the fourth quarter of 2018 (Chopping, 2019).
-Lack of transparency in H&M’s new sustainability
campaigns like it’s Conscious Collection have led
representatives from Norway among others to question
how “sustainable” these products really are (Bain, 2019).
-H&M struggles with in-store merchandising. When visiting
a store, it is common to find merchandise wrinkled,
unorganized, not streamed, and cluttered (Leiber, 2019).
Threats
-The Spanish fast-fashion Zara is currently dominating the
industry, with 26.1 billion euro in sales for the fiscal year of
2018 (Cockar, 2019).
-Because H&M does not own their own factories, it can be
difficult to account for the conditions of hundreds of
different factories they outsource to around the globe. In
2016, they were heavily criticized for sweatshop-like
working conditions in Bangladesh (Olito, 2018).
-With financials all in Swedish Krona. H&M could suffer
from the constantly fluctuating foreign exchange market
and dealing stocks in many different countries (Bloomberg,
2019).
-H&M faces threat from expansion from many of its fast-
fashion peers, such as British giant Primark set to open
stores in the US and across Europe (Bloomberg, 2019).
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Part 2: Line Development

11
Proposal

After conducting market research, It can be determined that H&M

would benefit from a complete overhaul of its current sustainability
line and marketing thereof. The current sustainable line “Conscious
Collection” has recently been criticized by the Norwegian Consumer
Authority for not providing enough detail as to how their garments
have been deemed more sustainable and less polluting than other
products (Segran, 2019). On H&M’s website, products from the
Conscious Collection have their fabric content listed in the details, with
descriptions such as “made partly from recycled polyester” and
“cotton content is organic” (H&M.com, 2019). While H&M’s claims of
sustainability are not necessarily false, they are misleading the
consumer. They are failing to explain in an accessible and easy manor
why and how these items are more sustainable (Segran, 2019).
However, H&M’s Conscious Collection does feature products made
entirely from Tencel/Lyocell, an eco-friendly textile made from wood
pulp. This one step forward was the results of two steps back. H&M was
also accused of burning 12 tons of unsold clothing in 2017
(Farmbrough, 2018). In 2010, the brand was forced to change its
previous policy of cutting up unsold clothing instead of donating it
(Farmbrough, 2018). With the industry expected to have a carbon
footprint of 2,791 million tons and 148 million tons of waste, H&M needs
to put forth more of an effort to be sustainable as a leader of the
fashion industry (The Conversation, 2019).

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Target Market

H&M will keep the traditional H&M target demographic but will branch
out more to those looking to spend more on truly sustainable pieces.
The new H&M customer does not want to sacrifice style and trendiness
for eco-friendly alternatives. H&M would like to keep its current
audience, just narrow the market segment to those a little more
environmentally aware.
• Age: 25 years old
• Gender: Female
• Career: Account Executive for Dell in Columbus, Ohio (Earl, 2019).
• Annual Household Income: $135,000 (Including both her and her
partner’s salary) (Earl, 2019).
• Discretionary Income: $3,300 per month (Agadoni, 2019).
• Place of Residence: Rents a 2-bedroom home with boyfriend in
Dublin, Ohio to be close to work (Sheets, n/d).
H&M Customer: Lauren (Image 1.1)

(Instagram: themoptop) 13
• Retail Location of Shopping: H&M at Polaris Fashion Place and H&M
at Easton Town Center, Columbus, OH.
• Visits Per Month: 2-3 visits per month, will purchase 1 to 2 of these
visits.
• Spending at Store: $150 per month, depending on needs.
• Magazines: Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Sublime
• Websites/Blogs: Green Living, Pebble Magazine
• Other Stores to Shop: Altar’d State, Lululemon, Macy’s, Express,
Banana Republic and other frequent mall retailers (Polaris Fashion
Place, 2019).
• Upcoming Look Inspiration: Comfortable classic pieces made from
innovative eco-friendly materials, check prints, neutrals, soft
textures and autumnal shades.
• She has been very trend-driven in the past but is looking to spend
more on great sustainable staple pieces.

Image 1.2 Image 1.3 Image 1.4

(Pinterest) (Pinterest) (Pinterest)

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Trend Analysis

• H&M will continue to carry its current product offerings but will now
include a new sustainable line that still evokes traditional H&M
trends and silhouettes.
• General Trend Direction: The A/W ‘20 microtrend “Softwear” is
inspired by both natural landscapes and the comforts of home. Thick
knits, icy tones and cocooning silhouettes conjure up a quiet calm
and sense of purity (Doneger, 2019).
• Key Silhouettes: Pleated forms and soft sculpturing (Image 1.6) will
be featured elements of oversized and well-tailored minimalist
pieces. Loungewear and lingerie will no longer be just “wear at
home” wardrobe pieces (Ross, 2019).
• Key Items: Victorian-style dresses (Image 1.5), puffed outerwear,
blanket-inspired (Image 1.7), sculpted knitwear (Image 1.6) (Ross,
2019).

Image 1.5 Image 1.6 Image 1.7

(Batsheva) (WGSN) (WGSN)

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Fabrics: Padded, puffed, and quilted fabric, soft silks and
satins(Doneger, 2019). Sustainable fabrics will gain increased
importance and the industry will look to recycling synthetic fibers like
nylon and polyester. Alternative cellulosics like modal, milk, and nettle
will increase in demand as eco-friendly alternatives (Ledru, 2017).
Prints: The season’s prints will take inspiration from the natural
landscape, as well as natural textures like stone, marble and fur (Ross,
2019).
Color: Classic neutrals are evolving to include cooler tones like Soft
Moss and Lilatech (Boddy, 2018). Cooler grey shades will be key to
more tailored pieces. Colors are becoming increasingly transeasonal
with the rise of sustainable fashion and clothing that are meant to last
the long-haul (Boddy, 2018).

Image 1.8 Image 1.9 Image 2.0

Nettle Fabric Modal Fabric Knitwear Blend WGSN

16
Image 2.1 Image 2.2 Image 2.3

(Doneger)

Image 2.4 (Doneger)

Image 2.5 (WGSN Core Colors A/W 20/21)

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Color, Print & Fabric Stories

(WGSN)
Pantone Colors from left to right: Unbleached (11-0701 TCX), Gravity
Grey (17-0000 TCX), Camel (16-0928 TCX), Soft Moss (17-5111 TCX),
Pink Crystal (15-1512 TCX), Lilatech (14-3911 TCX)
Warmth Stark

(Doneger, 2019) (Doneger, 2019)

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Concept Boards

Creature Comfort

Finely Structured

19
Under the Skin

20
Line Plan

21
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24
Key Items

• The selected key items for H&M’s new collection are the Quilted
Double-Collar Coat, the Prairie Ruffle Blouse, the Pleated Structure
Blouse, the Drop-Waist Pleated Maxi Skirt and the High-Waist Pocket
Pant.
• These items represent the biggest trends of A/W ’20 such as
oversized silhouettes, Victorian-inspired, quilting and pleated
detailing.

25
Part 3: Merchandising Plan

26
Fabric Quick Costing

The following table displays the estimated fabric costs for all 10 styles
featured in the new H&M line. After calculating a target fabric cost, it
was determined that every garment in the collection can be sold for
their respective retail prices listed in the revised style sheets.

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6-Month Merchandising Plan

Merchandising Plan Calculations for November

Planned Sales $
Monthly Planned Sales ($) = Last Year’s Monthly Sales % * Season
Total
i.e. Planned Sales for November = 18% * $65,000 = $11,700

Retail Stock
BOM Retail Stock = STS Ratio for Month * Monthly Planned Sales
i.e. BOM Retail Stock for November = 2.0 * $11,700 = $23,400

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Markdowns $
Markdown $ = Markdown % * Monthly Planned Sales
i.e. Markdown $ for November = 15% * $11,700 = $1,755

Planned Retail Purchases

Planned Retail Purchases = Planned Sales $ + Markdowns + EOM –
BOM
i.e. Planned Retail Purchases for November = $11,700 + $1,755 +
$32,500 - $23,400 = $22,555

Planned Purchases at Cost

Planned Purchases at Cost = Planned Retail Purchases * (100%-
Markup Percentage)
i.e. Planned Purchases at Cost for November = $22,555 * (100%-60%) =
$9,022

EOM Inventory
EOM = $ Retail Stock BOM of the next month
i.e. EOM for November = $32,500 (December BOM)

Total Stock-to-Sales Ratio

Total STS Ratio = Value of Stock BOM/Total Sales
I.e. STS Ratio for season = $158,405/$65,000 = 2.4

Based on the 6-month merchandising plan, the planned retail

purchases for November are $22,555.
29
Ratio Distribution

The following visuals present ratios for distribution of size, color,

pattern and style for H&M’s new sustainable Autumn/Winter ’20
collection, as well as reasoning behind those findings.
Style Distribution
Class # Class % of Budget Estimated $
1 Tops 45% $10,149.75
2 Bottoms 15% $ 3,383.25
3 Dresses 20% $ 4,511.00
4 Coats 20% $ 4,511.00

The ratios shown in the Style Distribution table above come from
H&M’s current “Conscious” product offerings. Only the womenswear
from the Conscious Collection was analysed. The ratios were
determined by figuring out the total number of eco-friendly women’s
products (604 items), then using filter and sort features to figure out
the number of product offerings within each category (“Fall Conscious
Collection”, 2019). Based on the store’s current offerings, Class 1 is the
biggest seller by far (roughly 42% of products) and will be a large focus
in the Autumn/Winter collection. Class percentage was also
determined by popularity and frequency in trend forecasts (Ross,
2019). An emphasis was placed on outerwear and dresses due to their
unique sculptural silhouettes in the upcoming season.
Size Distribution

Size Percentage
Size Percentage
0 5%
2 6% XS 11%
4 9%
Small 18%
6 9%
8 14% Medium 28%
10 14%
Large 27%
12 14%
14 13% XL 16%
16 8%
18 8%

30
H&M’s current standard size offerings consist of extra-small, small,
medium, large and extra-large. In bottoms and dresses numbered
sizing from 0-18 are utilized (“Fall Conscious Collection”, 2019).
According to customer statistics from Real Thread, medium and large
are the most common sizes, 28% and 27% respectively (Real Thread,
2019). Medium and large are the largest size distributions, as well as
their numbered sizing counterparts sizes 8-14.
Color/Print Distribution

Color Percentage
Unbleached 19%
Gravity Grey 14%
Camel 11%
Soft Moss 12%
Pink Crystal 11%
Lilatech 6%
Warmth 13%
Stark 14%

Unbleached Gravity Grey Camel Soft Moss Pink Crystal Lilatech Warmth Stark

Colors in the Autumn/Winter ’20 line were distributed based on

WGSN’s color forecast for A/W 20/21. Core colors such as unbleached,
gravity grey and camel were prioritized and received the highest
distribution. Accent colors like Soft Moss and Pink Crystal had a
slightly lower percentage, so they would not compete with the better-
selling neutral options. Since they are “pop” colors, they pose a greater
risk. Prints Warmth and Stark were almost evenly split, with Stark
slightly higher due to its wearability (Boddy, 2018).

31
Assortment Plans

32
33
Purchase Order

The table below displays H&M’s final purchase order for their A/W ’20
sustainable collection. The purchase order meets the $22,555 planned
retail sales budget.

34
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Image Credits

Image 1.1 Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/B2wjLRjBI3o/

Image 1.2 Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/570901690265660380/

Image 1.3 Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/570901690265660379/

Image 1.4 Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/570901690265660376/

Image 1.5 Retrieved from https://www.garmentory.com/sale/batsheva/dresses-day/196753-spring-prairie-dress-in-

grey

Image 1.6 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82073/page/6

Image 1.7 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82073/page/7

Image 1.8 Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/389420699020244531/

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Image 1.9 Retrieved from https://www.atmanassociates.com/product/modal-fabric/

Image 2.0 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/81950/page/8

Image 2.1 Retrieved from https://www.doneger.com/dcs/Forecasts/Womenswear-3.html

Image 2.2 Retrieved from https://www.doneger.com/dcs/Forecasts/Womenswear-3.html

Image 2.3 Retrieved from https://www.doneger.com/dcs/Forecasts/Womenswear-3.html

Image 2.4 Retrieved from https://www.doneger.com/dcs/Forecasts/Womenswear-3.html

Image 2.5 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/81568/page/4

Image 2.6 Retrieved from https://about.hm.com/en_us/news/general-news-2018/hm-group-biggest-user-sustainable-

cotton-and-man-made-cellulosic-materials.html

Concept Board Images Retrieved from:

https://www.doneger.com/dcs/Inspiration/fw20/Women's-Inspiration-4.html
https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82073/page/2

Swatch 1 Retrieved from https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tencel

Swatch 2 Retrieved from https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=organic+cotton

Swatch 3 Retrieved from https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=hemp

Swatch 4 Retrieved from https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bamboo

Swatch 5 Retrieved from https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=wool

Flat 1 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 2 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 3 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 4 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 5 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 6 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 7 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/0/cad%20quilted%20coat

Flat 8 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 9 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

Flat 10 Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/e01344433c0cb3ea778c4547e2a47587/CAD

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