Thread Consumption Methods

In today’s competitive marketplace, there is a need for tight cost control. A realistic
estimation of potential thread requirements for particular garment styles or contracts will not
only end up saving you money, but also enable you to use a superior thread for the same
cost, thereby not compromising on garment quality.
Several factors determine the extent of thread consumption in any sewn product, such as
stitch type, seam type, material thickness, number of layers, construction and SPI (stitches
per inch).
However, these factors are not constant with the different style preferences. Hence, thread
consumption is never standard for sewn product categories such as shirts, trousers and
footwear.
There are two methods generally used to calculate the amount of thread in a seam and
hence the thread consumption in the sewn product:

1. By measuring the actual amount of thread consumed

2. By calculation using thread consumption ratios

1. Measuring Actual Thread Consumed

A specified length of a given seam is measured and then the thread is pulled out of this
length. We can use the amount pulled out of this specified length to calculate the ratio of
thread consumed in the entire seam. By dividing the amount of thread by the seam length,
we get the ratio of thread consumed. If we multiply this factor times the total length of seam,
we can determine the total thread consumed for that seam.

Example:
Length of seam = 100 cm (1 metre)
Stitch class 401 = 2-Thread Chain stitch
Length of seam for which thread is removed = 15 cm
Needle thread removed = 19.5 cm
Needle thread factor = 19.5/15 = 1.3
Looper thread removed = 62.0 cm x 1.3
Looper thread factor = 62.0/15 = 4.1
Total Needle thread = 100 cm x 1.3 = 130 cm
Total Looper thread = 100 cm x 4.1 = 410 cm
Total thread consumed = 130 + 410 = 540 cm
Add 15% wastage* = 540 cm x 1.15 = 621 cm
*Generally, 10% to 15% wastage of thread is added to the consumption derived. This
wastage occurs due to shop-floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs,
etc. The above example shows the total thread consumed for one type of stitch class in a
garment. By following a similar procedure, you can calculate the thread consumed for
different stitching operations in a garment.

2. Thread Consumption Ratios

The easier method is to use the generally applicable Thread Consumption Ratios for the
various stitch types that are listed in the table below. By relating these ratios to the length of
seams using each stitch type, total thread consumption can be calculated.
 Note:
1. The above ratios are arrived at with a stitch density of 7 stitches per cm (18 stitches per inch).
2. These ratios are the prescribed minimum in regular conditions and marginally vary with the factors
affecting thread consumption.
3. A certain percentage of wastage is to be added to the above ratios as per shop floor conditions. It may
vary from 10% to 15%.

Example:
Length of seam = 100 cm (1 metre)
Stitch class 401 = 2-Thread Chainstitch
From the table, total thread usage per cm of seam = 5.5 cm
Total thread consumption = 100 cm x 5.5 = 550 cm
Estimated Needle thread = 550 x 0.25 = 138 cm
Estimated Looper thread = 550 x 0.75 = 412 cm
Add 15% wastage = 550 cm x 1.15 = 633 cm of thread per seam
By applying thread consumption ratios in a manner similar to the calculation in the above
example, a sample consumption working for an average sized knitted t-shirt is shown in the
table below.
Example
Thread consumption for an average-sized knitted t-shirt

These days, thread consumption and costing can be calculated without the need to pick the
thread from seams. Coats' Seamworks is a sewing management software solution that can
accurately calculate thread consumption and costing for a single sewn product or production
run or any number of sewing machines. Seamworks helps to reduce thread wastage and
can give you a competitive edge through cost effective sewing thread procurement. Ask your
local Coats contact about Seamworks.
Note: Stitch density, stitch / seam chioce, variations in style, fabric thickness and number of plies
are factors that can affect thread consumption. It is also necessary to make provision for possible
thread wastage (usually 15%) while calculating thread consumption.

Average Thread Consumption

The table below gives the average thread lengths consumed for different types of garments,
drawn from our experience. These figures include 5% wastage allowance:
 Coats Seamworks™
Apart from the two regular methods that are used, there is a quick, simple and efficient
option available to our customers called Coats Seamworks. Using this software, it is possible
to calculate thread consumption metering and costing without having to pick up the thread
from the seam.
Seamworks is a sewing management software solution that can calculate thread
consumption for any sewn product.
Not only does it calculate the consumption for a single product, it also enables you to choose
the right thread ordering pattern, which is necessary for optimal usage of the ordered thread
in the shop floor.
Salient features:
 Easy-to-use familiar Explorer-type interface
 Support for metric and imperial measurement systems
 Increased data integrity
 Enhanced calculation engine
 Multi-lingual support
Fixed Weight and Fixed Length Numbering Systems
All numbering systems used to indicate thread size are either ‘fixed weight’ or ‘fixed length’ systems.

Generally, Metric count is used to describe synthetic, spun and core spun thread while
English count is used to specify cotton thread. Filament threads are normally expressed with
Decitex or Denier.

Resultant Thread Size

When more than one ply of yarn is twisted into a thread, finding the resultant size of the
thread by considering all the plies becomes necessary.
In fixed weight systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count / Number of plies
In fixed length systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count x Number of plies
A particular resultant size can be made with any number of plies.
Count Conversions
Using the table below will enable you to perform a simple conversion from one system to
another.

Ticket Numbering
Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the
manufacturer’s reference numbers for the size of a given thread.
The Metric Count, Cotton Count and Denier Systems use ticket numbering system to give an
easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.
A ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another. For example,
Ticket 40 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 40 Corespun.
Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight system.
They can simply denote:
Higher the ticket number, finer the thread.
Lower the ticket number, thicker the thread.
Converting sizes for synthetic products

Arriving at a Ticket Number

Note:
• To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and
multiply by 3.
• To establish the Tex of a particular Ticket number, please contact your nearest Coats office.
Cotton threads are rarely used today, so ticket numbers for cotton threads are not discussed
here.
Communicating Thread Size with Ticket Numbers
In the thread industry, different countries follow different ticket numbers. Knowing
different ticket number conventions for a certain thread size and the corresponding
Tex size will aid you in thread selection. Ticket numbers of three different Coats threads
specified by different ticketing systems are given in the tables that follow.
Different Ticketing Systems – Polyester / Cotton Corespun (Coats Dual Duty)

Different Ticketing Systems – Polyester Corespun (Coats Epic)

Different Ticketing Systems – Staple Spun Polyester (Coats Astra)
 To Convert From To Multiply by

Threads in Fabric: Number per centimetre 0.3937

Number per inch
Stitches in Fabric: Number per centimetre 0.3937
Number per inch
Mass per unit area: Gram per sq. metre 33.906
Ounce per sq. yard Momme 0.23
Gram per sq. metre Ounce per sq. yard 0.128
Momme
Twist Level Turns per metre 39.37
Turns per inch
Dimetre Micrometre 25.4
1/1000 inch millimetre 25.4
inch centimetre 25.4
inch
Cover Factor 0.957
a. Woven cotton fabrics

b.Weft knitted worsted fabric 1.172

Twist factor (or multiplier) 9.57

Millinewton 9.81
Gram force Newton 4.45
Pound Force Decanewton 0.98
Kilogram Force
Tearing Strength Newton 4.45
Pound Force
Tenacity Millinewton per Tex 88.3
Gram force per denier
Bursting Pressure Kilonewtons per square metre 6.89
Pound force per sq.inch

Conversion Factors for Common Use

To Convert From To Multiply by

Length Centimetres(cm) 2.54

Inches(in) Metres(m) 0.3048
Feet(ft) Kilometres(km) 1.609544
Land miles(=5280 ft) Kilometres(km) 1.85327
Nautical miles(=6080 ft)
Area Square centimetres(cm2) 6.452
Square inches(in2) Square metres(m2 0.092903
Square feet(ft2 Square kilometres(km2) 2.58999
Square miles Square kilometres(km2) 0.004047
Acres Hectares(ha) 0.404686
Acres
Capacity/Volume Cubic centimetres(cm3) 16.387
Cubic inches(in3) Cubic metres(m3) 0.0285
Cubic feet(ft3)) Litres 4.546
UK gallons Litres 3.785
US gallons Pint 2
Quart Milliletres(ml) 568
UK pint Milliletre(ml) 473
US Pint
Weight/Mass Grams(g) 28.3495
Ounces(oz) Kilograms(kg) 0.45559
Pounds(lb) Kilograms(kg) 1016.05
Long tons(=2240 lb)
(=1.016 tonnes(t))
Temperature Celsius/Centigrade(oC) (F-32) & 0.5555
Farenheit(F)
Length Inches(in) 0.3937
Centimetres(cm) Feet(ft) 3.2808
Metres(m) Land miles(=5280 ft) 0.62137
Kilometres(km) Nautical miles(=6080 ft) 0.53961
Kilometres(km)
Area Square inches(in2) 0.155
Square centimetres(cm2) Sqaure feet(ft2) 10.7639
Square metres(m2) Sqare miles 0.3861
Square kilometres(km2) Acres 247.105
Square kilometres(km2) Acres 247.105
Hectares(ha)
Capacity/Volume Cubic inches(in3) 0.06102
Cubic centimetres(cm3) Cubic feet(ft3) 35.3147
Cubic metres(m3) UK galons 0.21997
Litres US gallons 0.2642
Litres Quart 0.5
Pint UK Pint 0.00176
Millilitres(ml) US Pint 0.00211
Milliletres(ml)
Weight/Mass Ounces(oz) 0.03527
Grams(g) Pounds(lb) 2.20462
Kilograms(kg) Long tons(=2240 lb) 0.00098
Kilograms(kg) (=1.016 tonnes)
Temperature Farenheit(F) (oC * 1.8)+ 32
Celsius/Centigrade(oC)
1. Reed Count
It is calculated in stock port system.No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count.
Reed Count = EPI/(1 + Weft crimp %age)
2. Reed Width
Reed Width = Cloth Width *(100+ weft crimp %age)/100
3. Crimp Percentage
Crimp %age = {(Warp length - Cloth length)/Cloth Length}* 100
Crimp %age = {(Warp width - Cloth width)/Cloth width}* 100
4. Cloth Cover Factor

a.

b.
c. Cloth Cover Factor = Wp.C.F +Wt.C.F. - {(Wp.C.F. - Wt.C.F)/28}
5. Maximum EPI for particular count

a.

b.
c. other design = (Ends /Repeat * 1/Yarn Diametre)/ (No of intersections/repeat+
ends/repeat)

d.
6. Warp Density

= <350
 Weave Density = 50+{(Warp Density - 100) * F.D - 100} /{(Weft Density - 100)* F.D -
100}
 Effective Weave Density = W. D x K of loom width x K of Design
= < 72

Wp / filling - K Loom Width - K Weave Design - K

Cotton = 1.00 140 cm - 0.99 Plain1/1 = 1.00
Polyester/Cotton = 1.03 180 cm - 1.00 Twill 1/2 = 0.87
Viscose Filament = 1.17 190 cm - 1.01 Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82
Polyester Filament = 1.22 220 cm - 1.02 Drill 1/3 = 0.77
 Wp / filling - K Loom Width - K Weave Design - K

250 cm - 1.08 Satin 1/4 = 0.69

330 cm - 1.15
360 cm – 1.20

7. To change the count and the number of thread / inch , keeping the same denseness of fabric
To change the count without altering the denseness of the fabric
EPI in Exp.cloth = (EPI in exp.Cloth2/EPI in given cloth) * count in given cloth
To change the EPI without altering the denseness of the fabric

8. Warp requirement to weave the cloth

 Warp weight in grams /metre = {(Total Ends * 1.0936 * 453.59 * crimp %)/(840 *
count)} * wastage %
 Weft weight in grams /metre ={(R.S. in inches * 453.59 * PPI)/(840 * count)} * wastage
% * crimp %
 Cloth length in metres with given weft weight=( weft weight in kgs * weft count * 1848 *
0.9144)/(PPI * R.S in inches)

For silk and Polyester

 Warp weight in grams /metre ={(Total Ends * count (Denier) )/9000} * wastage % *
crimp %
 Weft weight in grams /metre = {(R.S in inches * count(Denier)* PPI)/9000}* wastage %
* crimp %

Allowance for count in bleached and Dyed fabric

1.Count becomes 4%
2. FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser

9. Fabric Production Calculation

 Loom Speed = Motor RPM * (Motor Pully Diametre)/(Loom Pully Diametre)
 Loom Effeciency Percentage = (Actual Production/Calculated Production )* 100
 Moisture Regain Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Dried Yarn weight}
* 100
 Moistue Content Percentage = {(Yarn Weight - Dried Yarn Weight)/Yarn weight} * 100

Type of Yarn Moisture Regain % Moisture Content %

Cotton 8.50 7.83
Jute 13.75 12.10
Silk 11.00 9.91
 Type of Yarn Moisture Regain % Moisture Content %

Rayon, Viscose 11.00 9.91

Wool 17.00 14.50
Nylon 4.20 3.78

10.
 Warp Weight in Kg = (Total Ends * Tape Length in metres)/(1693.6 * Warp Count)
 Weft Weight in Kg = (R.S in centimetres * cloth length in metres * PPI )/(4301.14 * weft
Count)
 Cloth weight in GSM = {EPI/Warp Cout)+(PPI/Weft count)}* 25.6
 oz (ounce ) per sq. yard = GSM(Grams per sq. metre)/34
11. Material Measurement
To calculate the length of any rolled fabrics, this formula gives the nearest accuracy.
L = {0.0655(D-d)(D+d)}/t
Where L = Length of material (Feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches) d = Inside diameter (inches)

12. Weight of yarn in a cloth

The weight of cloth manufactured on looms depends upon the weight of yarns in thewarp and
weft: ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. Therefore,
Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All inlbs.)
Where as Weight of warp in lbs. = (Total No. of Ends * Tape Length in Yards)/(840 * warp yarn
count)

Also