CHOP SAW STAND AND CONVEYOR SYSTEM

By Jamie Norwood

See the Enlarged View - Click Image

The following instructions and drawings are for constructing a stand for an
abrasive or dry-cut chopsaw for cutting metal. The saw stand and material rollers
solve the problem of currently available stands that are designed mainly for wood
cutting miter saws. The metal chop saw blades are not made to swivel, the vice does.
This requires a lot of extra room when cutting parts from long lengths of metal. If
you cut angles, bars, rounds, etc. you also need to support the stock and have a way
to set up a stop for repeat cuts. This stand swivels the whole saw, while leaving the
stock in place. It allows you to cut 20 and 24 foot long stock from either side. The
stand stores in about 6 foot of floor space when not in use and extends to almost 28
feet - 14 feet each side of the saw when in use.

Directions for Constructing the Chop Saw Roller Conveyors

The roller stations are built using parts A through F. Cut parts B through F; part A is cut
later. See: Drawing for Roller Conveyor

You might want to tack weld the parts together for the first unit to make sure that you get
it right.

Part A must be cut later, but it will be approximately 3" long.

Part B is 12-7/8" long only if you are using the Harbor Freight rollers that I used. If you
use a different roller, adjust this measurement to suit your rollers.

Parts C1, C2, and C3 are similar except for the size tubing; see the list for sizes. Drill a
3/8" hole in the center of each of the C parts. Take a 3/8" hex nut and weld it over the
hole by threading a 3/8" bolt through the nut about 1/4" and setting it over the hole. Tack
weld the nut on two sides and remove the bolt. Finish welding the nut and repeat on other
7 parts.

Part D is welded to part C on the adjacent side from the nut. It is easier to lay part D
down and stand part C on end and weld them together. Don't get any weld bead inside the
tubing. Make sure that D is square to part C. Now weld part B to part C. It is easier to lay
the part C and D assembly down and weld part B to it. Try to get it square to part D.

Part E has a 3/8" nut welded 1" from the top. Use the same procedure used on part C to
weld the nut over the hole.

Part F is cut 9" long measured over the long points. The angle is 45 degrees. Weld two of
them to each part E, one on the same side as the nut on E and one on the opposite side.
The short point is even with the bottom of E.

See the Enlarged Views - Click Images

Directions for Constructing the Chop Saw Stand

The saw stand is built using parts G through Q.

Cut parts G through Q. See Drawing for Saw Stand

Part H is 3-3/4" long point to long point. The angle is 10 degrees. While you have the 10
degrees set up, cut the parts labeled J. They are 31" long point to short point, also with a
10 degree angle.

Part K should be as long as your saw base is wide; for my Porter Cable it is 11-1/2". Tack
two part J's and one part H together with part K at the top and centered. Take care to get
K parallel to a line across the bottoms of part J. Repeat for the other set of legs. Leave the
casters off until later.

Now is the trickiest part. Take the two leg assemblies and stand them upside down and
parallel on a flat, level surface about 15-1/2" apart. Now clamp a part L between them 2-
3/8" above the table using a bar clamp. Do this for both part L's. It might be easiest to
stack scrap metal or blocks of wood to a height of 2-3/8" for the part L to set on. Sight
across from the side of the stand from the top of one L to the other. They should be
exactly in line horizontally and level front to back. If there is a twist at this point, raise
the low side up until they line up. Make sure that L is at least 2-3/8" above the table.
Make sure that part L is square to the legs. Clamp part M between the legs to hold them
parallel. Part L should be level with the table both ways; in other words, don't twist them
to be flush with the sides of the legs. Tack part L in place. Recheck for square and level.
Tack part M in place about 4" up from the bottom of the leg (it isn't critical). When you
are sure that it looks right, go ahead and weld it up.

Part G is welded together using about 4 short beads in the groove between the pieces.
Don't weld the ends of the tubing. Weld both sides this way, and then grind the welds
flush on one side; this side will be the bottom. On the bottom, weld a 3/8" nut 1" from
each end over a 3/8" hole as described before. Make sure that they are on opposite tubes
on each end. Now weld a 1/2" nut over a 1/2" hole in the center of one of the tubes; it
doesn't matter which one.

Parts Q1 and Q2 are similar, with a 3/8" nut welded 1" from one end of each.

Part Q3 is simply a 48" length of tubing. No welding is required. Nothing slides inside
this part, so I used 11 ga. tubing for strength, because it is the smallest tubing on the
stand.

Part P is a 1/2" x 2" cap screw or hex bolt. Take a piece of 1/2" (or close) round rod and
cut it approximately 6" long. Put a bend of approximately 10 degrees 2" from one end.
Weld the short end to the end of the cap screw to use as a handle. Smooth the ends of the
handle to keep from cutting your hand when you use it.

Final Assembly
 -

See the Enlarged Views - Click Images

Stand the stand upright on the floor. Lay part G, with the nuts down, across the two part
L's. Take part N and put P through it and thread P into the 1/2" nut on G from the
underside of L. Leave it loose enough to slide G across L. Swivel G IN THE SAME
DIRECTION THAT YOUR VICE SWIVELS until it is 45 degrees to part L. You will
probably have to slide it front to back to get to this point. The 1/2" nut on G on my stand
is at the back. On my stand, the bolt on P is about 11-1/2" from the front of the stand.
Make sure that part N is even with the outside of and square to part L. Part of part G
might be under the ends of K; that's OK. When you are satisfied with the position, tack
part N to L.

Now put your saw on the stand. You might need to weld some tabs onto K to
accommodate the mounting holes on your saw; I did for my Porter Cable. Lay a straight
piece of metal or wood about 48" long across the saw table extending on both sides. Slide
the roller station with part C1 onto part Q1 (you don't need the bottom part of the station).
Slide part Q1 fully into G, letting the roller station slide up to the end of G, and use a star
handle in the end of G to tighten Q1 in place. If the locking handle part P protrudes into
the inside of the tube preventing Q1 from sliding all the way in, put some washers under
the head of the cap screw. Use a ratchet handle to secure part C1 to part Q1. Now
measure from the underside of the straight stick to the top of B. Use this measurement to
determine the length of and the hole placement for the rollers in part A. I'll leave the math
as an academic exercise. Remember that part A goes down to the bottom of part B and is
welded to the ends of B. Weld up all part A's to the other stations. Don't worry that the
height of the rollers is lower on the outboard stations; there is enough slack in the
telescoping tubing to raise them level with the saw table.

See the Enlarged Views - Click Images

Finish welding up anything you have left tacked and weld on the casters. Take the time to
deburr the inside of the tubing that telescopes; it will make them slide easier and the paint
will last longer.

You might want to make a mounting plate for the casters so that they can be replaced if
needed. Locking casters are shown on the drawing, primarily as a safety feature. Standard
casters can be used equally as well. When in use, the roller stands are lowered to the floor
and all tends to stay firmly in place.
I sandblasted my stand and primed it and painted it a bright red. Install the rollers and the
saw and you are done! You can use the roller stations and the extensions by themselves
for supports for other tools in your shop. For a cutoff stop I use a piece of angle iron
Vice-Gripped to the extensions. If you come up with something better, let me know and I
will update the plans with your version.

If you complete one of these, send me a photo to: Jamie Norwood. If you think it is worth
it, send me a donation to encourage more plans in the future!

Jamie Norwood
13405 Jacobson Rd
Manor, TX 78653

Bill of Materials and Suppliers

Hot rolled mild steel. All sizes in inches.

Part
Quantity Size Material
#
flat (* length determined by your saw
A 16 1/4" x 1" x *
dimensions)
14 ga. square tubing (** If using rollers supplied
B 8 1" x 1" x 12-7/8" **
by: Harbor Freight)
C1 4 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" x 2" 14 ga. square tubing
C2 2 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 2" 14 ga. square tubing
C3 2 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 2" 14 ga. square tubing
D 8 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 16" 14 ga. square tubing
E 8 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 16" 14 ga. square tubing
F 16 1" x 1" x 9" 16 ga. wall square tubing cut on 45 degree angle
G 2 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" x 48" 14ga. square tubing
1-3/4" x 1-3/4" x 3-
H 2 14ga. square tubing, cut on 10 degree angle
3/4"
I not used
J 4 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" x 31" 14 ga. square tubing, cut on 10 degree angle
K 2 1/2" x 2" x 11-1/2" flat
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 15-
L 2 14 ga. square tubing
1/2"
M 2 1" x 1" x 15-1/2" 11 ga. square tubing
N 1 1/2" x 2" x 7-1/4" flat
O not used
P 2 1/2" x 6" round solid rod
Q1 2 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x48" 14 ga. square tubing
Q2 2 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 48" 14 ga. square tubing
Q3 2 1" x 1" x 48" 11 ga. square tubing

Items Purchased:

Rollers 8 ea. Harbor Freight Part # 30026 Harbor Freight

Star Handle 14 ea. MSC Part # 06816441 MSC

Ratchet Handle 8ea. MSC Part # 00970533 MSC

Caster 4ea. Any 4" swivel caster (Better to have them with locking brakes)

Email: Jamie Norwood

Return to Home Page

Created: 12/29/2001
Last Rev: