Here are 7 aquaponics system maintenance

rules that you must adhere by:

1) FEED YOUR FISH (DAILY)

Your fish are an essential part of your aquaponics system, so it’s important that they
stay fully nourished. You should feed them twice a day (or at least once), once in the
morning and again before sun down.
You can use an automatic fish feeder to help you do this if you’re unavailable, but being
present while feeding your fish also serves as a health check, because if you see that
your fish are not eating actively, then it may be a sign that something is wrong.

2) CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF YOUR FISH TANK (DAILY)

It’s essential that you have the correct water temperature in your fish tank to make it the
ideal environment for the aquaponic fish species that you have.
It’s a quick check that can easily be done just by searching on the ideal temperature for
the type of fish you’ll be raising.

3) CHECK FOR INSECTS (WEEKLY)

You want to take care of an insect problem sooner rather than later, because it can
quickly get out of control. Any time you harvest a plant, you should check for insects,
which will usually reside underneath plant leaves or in the stem sections.

4) CHECK THE PH LEVELS (WEEKLY)

The pH level in your aquaponics system determines the ability of your plants nutrient
intake, the bacteria’s reproduction abilities and the health of your fish. It’s safe to say
that pH is arguably the most important factor of how well your aquaponics system runs,
so it needs to be checked at least once a week.
The ideal pH level is between 6.8-7.0, and while some aquaponic systems steadily
maintain this, over time, most systems pH will decrease naturally. If it falls below 6.5, it’s
time to increase the pH levels again.

5) CHECK THE AMMONIA LEVELS (WEEKLY)

Like pH, another important indicator of the overall health of your aquaponics system is
the ammonia levels. This also needs to be checked once a week so you can spot any
problems that may turn out to be disastrous.
Ammonia levels should be equal to or less than 0.5ppm. A sudden rise in this means
that you may have a dead fish somewhere within your tank.
6) CHECK THE NITRATE LEVELS (MONTHLY)

Nitrates are usually a good thing, but when they rise to unnatural levels (above
150ppm), this could mean that there are not enough plants to take in the nitrogen that’s
being released by the nitrifying bacteria.
You can solve this three ways – Add more plants, harvest some fish or add another
grow bed to your aquaponics system.

7) CHECK THE PUMPS & PLUMBING SYSTEM (MONTHLY)

Check all the pumps and plumbing is connected and working properly for successful
circulation. This should really be checked everyday, while cleaning out all the pumps
and pipes should be done once a month.
It’s a hassle and dirty job but it has to be done in order to maintain the efficiency of your
system. A good way to clean them is to run high-pressure water from a hose through
each component.

TOP 7 WATER & PH TEST KIT BEST SELLERS

One of the common mistakes that lead to devastating consequences in aquarium tanks
is not having the correct pH, ammonia and nitrate levels. This is often the result of
owners forgetting to use a water & pH test kit to keep readings of their system.
The following 7 water & pH test kits are highly rated and feature on the bestselling list
on Amazon.
 
7) API FRESHWATER PH TEST KIT

The API Freshwater PH Test Kit contains 250 tests to help you measure pH levels from
6.0 to 7.6. It also includes clear and concise instructions, a color chart and glass tubes.
It’s essential to control pH levels because it prevents harmful effects of too much
alkaline or too much acidic aquarium water for your fish and plants.
 
6) API AMMONIA TEST KIT
 Ammonia is the number one killer of tropical fish in aquariums, produced from fish
waste and uneaten fish food. The API Ammonia Test Kit is a liquid test for freshwater
and saltwater aquariums, testing ammonia levels ranging from 0 to 8ppm. The kit also
contains a color chart, a glass tube and clear instructions.
 
5) TETRA EASYSTRIPS 6-IN-1 TEST STRIPS

Available in 25 or 100 strips, Tetra EasyStrips 6-in-1 Test Strips helps you to maintain a
healthy and safe environment for your fish by testing General water Hardness (GH),
nitrates, nitrites, alkalinity (KH) and pH levels.
They’re very easy to use, simply dip a strip into your aquarium water, wait 60 seconds
(reaction stops after 60 seconds to prevent false higher readings) and then look at the
results.
 
4) API GH AND KH TEST KIT
 The API GH and KH Test Kit contain liquid tests for general hardness (GH) and
carbonate hardness (KH) in tap water and freshwater aquariums.
Controlling the level of these elements is essential for preventing stress in fish as a
result of rapid pH changes and low levels of KH. The kit includes a color chart, glass
tubes and simple to follow instructions.
 
3) API SALTWATER MASTER TEST KIT

The API Saltwater Master Test Kit contains 550 tests designed for testing high range
pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels in 4 different ways to protect marine fish from
harmful water conditions.
These tests for suitable for saltwater as well as freshwater (but requires a different color
chart). The kit also includes laminated color charts, 4 glass test tubes and a holding tray
to keep everything organized. The instructions are straightforward and easy to follow,
also teaching you how to correct unsafe water conditions.
 
2) SEACHEM PURIGEN
 Seachem Purigen is designed for both marine and freshwater use, and is responsible
for controlling ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. It contains a “unique macro-porous
synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and
capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%”.
The product consists of countless number of tiny powdering particles that are contained
within a bag that has a small mesh (only 100ml comes in bag). They must be loaded
anywhere within your filter and it will do its job by removing nitrogenous organic waste
that would otherwise release harmful compounds.
 
1) API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT

If you want a comprehensive water & pH test kit for freshwater aquariums (can also be
used for saltwater but requires a different color chart), then look no further than the API
Freshwater Master Test Kit, that contains over 800 tests that measure the most
important aquarium levels (freshwater pH, ammonia, nitrite, high range pH and nitrate)
in 6 different ways.
It also includes 4 glass test tubes and a holding tray to keep things organized. The
instructions booklet provides you with clear and easy instructions on how to correct
unsafe water conditions.

HACH KIT
 How to Lower Your Nitrate/Nitrite Levels in Your Fish Tank

There are four possible sources of high nitrate levels: infrequent

maintenance, overfeeding, crowded tank, or bad water from the tap. Not to
worry though - there are several things you can do to lower nitrate levels
quickly and safely.

1
Do a 30% water change as soon as possible. In order to maintain a fish
tank, you should be doing at least a 25% water change every week. When
you do a water change, you are removing nitrate-laden water and replacing
it with fresh, nitrate-free water. Leaving this too long will result in a build-up
of nitrate that can harm your fish.

2
Lower the amount of food you are giving your fish. Remember that a
fish's stomach is around the same size as his eye. A little food goes a long
way.
• If you are giving fish several different kinds of foods (brine shrimp, blood
worms, flakes, etc. ) then make sure the amount is controlled.
• Place the food at feeding times in a place where the fish will actually be
able to find and eat it.
Remove any uneaten food from the tank with a gravel vacuum or clean
turkey baster.

3
Follow the general rule of thumb, which is to have 1 inch of adult fish
per gallon. Remember that this guideline is only for smaller tropical fish. A
12-inch pleco cannot fit into a 12 gallon tank, and a 10-inch fish has no
place in a 30 gallon tank. Use your common sense.

4
Test your water source for nitrate directly if after previous steps you
still have high levels. If it is high, then find another water source, and do a
water change with it.
Tips
• Planted tanks generally have lower nitrate than other tanks. If you have a
persistent nitrate problem, you may want to consider planting your
tank. Some good plants for absorbing nitrate are duckweed and
hygrophila.
• To tell if your tank is overcrowded, the one inch per gallon is a very rough
estimate. You need to take into consideration a couple of other
factors, like how much waste will the fish produce. Will they get
territorial? How big will these fish grow?

 How to Lower Ammonia Levels in Your Fish Tank

Taking care of your fish is important. You may need to adjust your
ammonia levels at one point. Fortunately, there are ways to level out the
amount of ammonia in your tank.
1
Check the ammonia levels. To do this, you will need a test kit. If you don't
already have one, buy a test kit because we want the ammonia levels as
low as possible.
2
Do a water change. This should be about 10 to 20 percent, depending on
the size of your aquarium.
3
Check your filter to see if it needs to be cleaned or not. If it needs to be
cleaned, clean it so you can use ammonia chips. Living plants will readily
absorb ammonia. Try rooting a philodendron in the tank. These plants
seem to thrive using this method of growth, and the plants with solid green
leaves can grow in very subdued light.
4
Buy some ammonia chips and place them in your filter. These help to
keep the ammonia balance down. The ammonia (zeolite) chips can be
recharged by immersing them in a strong solution of non iodized salt water,
and then rinsed. If you are careful with the zeolite it will last for many years.
5
Keep up with the regular water changes and cleaning of the gravel.
Regular maintenance will help keep your fish happier and less stressed. If
ammonia is not kept down, it can and will kill your fish.

 How to Dechlorinate aquarium water during weekly Partial Water

Changes
Weekly partial water changes remove toxic ammonia, nitrates and nitrites.
Tap water is usually used to do so. But, there are chemicals in tap water
that are bad for fish, like metals and chlorine or fluoride. Read on to see
how you can use an Aquarium Water Dechlorinator.
1
Go to a store that supplies for fish needs. Petco, Petsmart, or any pet
store will do.
2
Look for a box that will say something like "Aquarium Dechlorinator"
or "Anti-Chlorine Fish Special". Dechlorinators vary in prices as the
dosage is different.
3
Read on packaging and search for the dosage.
4
Get two buckets. Their sizes depend on how much water you want to
remove from your tank.
5
One bucket should be filled with dechlorinated tap water. Use Vacuum
Gravel Cleaner, available at most aquarium stores, to remove fish poo at
the bottom of the tank.
6
When you finish, add the dechlorinated tap water to your fish tank.
7
Repeat weekly to provide a healthy life to your vibrant fish.

 How to Control an Algae Bloom

Algae blooms are not very good for fish, and are sometimes troublesome to
get rid of. It doesn't help that most algaecides are poisonous to snails. This
article will help with getting rid of algae blooms (the kind that floats in the
water and turns it green, not the kind that sticks to the glass) in aquariums
that have snails.
1
Change water, from one fifth to two thirds of it per day, depending on
how turbid it is, and whether odour is included. Algae blooms are a
symptom of too much plant fertilizer in water. If you love aquatic life, then
you will learn to love your bucket.
2
Also try feeding your fish less. You may be overfeeding them, and when
excess food or fish poop sits in the tank, it decomposes into a rich algae
food. Generally speaking, only feed your fish as much as they can eat in
about three minutes.
3
If your tank does not contain plants, or only contains low-light plants
such as java moss, try lessening the time the tank stays lit.
4
If your tank does not contain plants, or if it is sparsely planted, try
adding a plant or two. These will 'eat' up extra nutrients and help starve
algae.
5
If the water stays green, wrap your tank in black cloth or paper and
turn off the light for a few days. Fish do not need light. They naturally get
darkness. Plants can survive several days without light. Many species of
plankton cannot. This is only a temporary step in comparison to step one.
6
Avoid using algaecide. If you can't control the algae without it, you're
doing something wrong. The risks outweigh the benefits of using it anyway.
Tips
Do not overfeed your fish. Just feed them once or twice a day, giving
enough food for them to eat in about three minutes. Some pond keepers do
not feed their fish, because they have learned to trust in light and plankton.
The hard part is where to keep the balance on a smaller scale.
 How to Fix Cloudy Aquarium Water
You have some goldfish, but the water seems to be getting cloudier and
cloudier. What causes this? And how can you fix it?
1
Learn about your fish tank. There are 3 common types of cloudy water:
White, green, and yellow. Determine which type is affecting your tank and
go from there.
2
If it is white cloudiness, it is likely caused by a bacterial bloom. This is
especially common in new tanks. Most of the time, once the tank cycles,
the cloudiness will clear up on its own. In the meantime, water changes will
help keep your water clear. If you have a new tank, perform 15% water
changes until your tank cycles.
3
If the water is green, it is probably an algae bloom. This is the result of
excess nutrients in the water. It won't hurt your fish, but it can be
unpleasant to look at. Cut back on feeding and step up the water changes
until it clears up. You can also leave the lights off for a few days to kill off
the algae.
4
For yellow cloudy water, the cause could be fish waste, tannins from
driftwood, or decaying plant matter. If it is fish waste, vacuum your
gravel more frequently. New driftwood releases tannins that color the
water. This should subside in a few months. Also, remove any dead plant
matter from your tank.

Here are the Top 10 aquaponics system fish

foods:
10) SAN FRANCISCO BAY BRAND BRINE SHRIMP EGGS VIAL FOR
BABY FISH & REEF TANKS

Brine Shrimp Eggs contain “high levels and lipid and essential unsaturated fatty acids
required for biological processes”. They are designed for baby fish to help them grow
faster and enhance their coloration.
They’re ideal for baby freshwater fishes, small saltwater fishes, saltwater invertebrates
and corals. It’s sold in a vial of 6 grams.
 
9) ZOO MED SUN DRIED LARGE RED SHRIMP

These high quality, protein rich food are great for large aquatic turtles, large size
freshwater fish, marine aquarium fish and invertebrates. After eating Zoo Med’s Sun
Dried Large Red Shrimp, fish and turtles typically shows an increase in physical health
and strength within just a few days. It can be part of a staple diet or just used as a
supplement or treat. They are available in 0.5oz, 2.5oz and 5oz jars.
 
8) NEW LIFE SPECTRUM MARINE FISH FORMULA 1MM SINKING
PELLET FISH FOOD
The Sinking Pellet Fish Food by New Life is versatile in its suitability, as its designed for
all marine species, including herbivore, carnivore and omnivore. The pellets are derived
from whole krill and herring, is easily digestible for your fish and will help boost their
immune system.
It’s able to achieve these type of results from fish because it contains essential
elements that are found in the natural environment of fish. The pellets sink immediately
but slowly, and you will see that your fish will love the food no matter what type of
species it is.
 
7) TETRA BLOODWORMS

Tetra Bloodworms are a nutritious supplement to Tetra Flake Foods and they’re suitable
for small-medium sized Tropical and Marine fish. The bloodworms are frozen and dried,
and when digested, provides fish with energy and conditioning.
However, it contains insect larvae which can cause allergic reactions such as wheezing,
irritation of eyes or skin or running nose. If you suffer from asthma, have high fever or
you’re allergic to insect larvae, you must not breath or touch the dust from the product.
Use a pair of tweezers or chopsticks to grab them.
 
6) TETRAMIN TROPICAL FLAKES
The TetraMin Tropical Flakes will not cloud your water and is a easily digestible fish
food that promotes long life. It features the patented ProCare, a health enhancing blend
that contains Omega 3 fatty acids (gives fish healthy fat needed for energy and growth),
ingredients that boosts the fish’s immune system and a biotin supplement to bolster
metabolism. It comes in container sizes from 0.42oz – 4.52lb.
 
5) TETRA JUMBOKRILL

The Tetra JumboKrill are large, wholesome freeze-dried shrimps that is a supplement

rich in protein, fat, roughage, and vitamin E, designed specifically for large tropical and
marine fish. It’s a fish food that’s high in carotenoids which helps to promote the
development of a fish’s natural pink color to orange and red colors. It will make your fish
look healthy and feel happy. It’s available in 0.87oz – 14oz vacuum sealed containers to
ensure freshness.
 
4) HIKARI BIO-PURE FREEZE DRIED BLOOD WORMS
These Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Blood Worms by Hikari (high quality Japanese brand) are
an excellent complement to your fish’s staple diet, or even as a daily treat. They’re
multi-vitamin rich so that stress and stress related diseases are greatly reduced.
They will not cloud the water and they contain some of the lowest phosphate (causes
algae blooms) levels in a dried fish food. You can get them in a container of two sizes
(0.42oz and 1.76oz) that has a patented ratcheting dispenser top.
 
3) TETRAFIN GOLDFISH FLAKES

One of the best fish food is the TetraMin PLUS Tropical Flakes which is available in
sizes ranging from 0.42oz – 7.06oz (200 grams). The flakes contain the aroma and
flavor of real shrimp which naturally attracts aquarium fish. They will not compress or
collapse, neither will they sink (unless your fish pulls it under water of course!) or cloud
the water.
 
2) TETRAMIN PLUS TROPICAL FLAKES
One of the best fish food is the TetraMin PLUS Tropical Flakes which is available in
sizes ranging from 0.42oz – 7.06oz (200 grams). The flakes contain the aroma and
flavor of real shrimp which naturally attracts aquarium fish. They will not compress or
collapse, neither will they sink (unless your fish pulls it under water of course!) or cloud
the water.
 
1) TETRACICHLID FLAKES

TetraCichlid Flakes are designed for top and mid-water feeding Cichlids such as
Tilapias. This nutritionally balanced diet contains an easier to digest formula and a
specific and customized blend of immunostimulants, vitamins, biotin, and Omega-3 fatty
acids to strengthen fish’s resistance to diseases and stress.
Flakes will remain firm and will not collapse when fish strikes. It’s available in 1.58oz –
1.75lb containers, with the latter end saving you more money.
Ornamental fish:
 Koi fish and goldfish are the best choice as ornamental fish
 Angelfish
 Guppies
 Tetras
 Swordfish
 Mollies

Fish for food:

 Catfish
 Tilapia
 Carps
 Trout
 Yellow Perch
 Silver Perch
 Sunfish
 Crappie
 Bluegill
  Sunfish
 Cod and Salmon

Common Insects and Mites in the Greenhouse

Some insects and mites are more likely to set up residence within your greenhouse than
others. Most insects and mites don’t bother us. It is just the few that do that give the
whole group a bad name in many people’s opinion.
Before action is taken when an insect has been spotted in the greenhouse, some kind
of identification should be made. The first thing that needs to be determined is whether
the insect or mite is feeding on the plant. Insects like caterpillars chew holes in leaves.
This is fairly obvious feeding activity. Insects like Thrips cut open a number of cells in a
patch on a leaf and then drink the cell sap. They will often leave spots of excrement in
the feeding patches. If you know what to look for, this type of damage is fairly easy to
spot. Other insects and mites suck the juices out of the plant. Although this can not be
easily detected once the insect or mite moves along, the insect or mite spends a fair
amount of time boring in to the plant tissue and does not move on quickly. They are
usually moving slowly enough that they can be observed. Some of us may need to use
a magnifying glass to get a good look at these rather small insects or mites.

Caterpillars
Caterpillars are the larval stage of butterflies or moths. They hatch out in the
greenhouse from eggs laid by their mothers, who flew or crawled into the greenhouse. If
you keep the adults out of the greenhouse, there will be no eggs to produce the
caterpillars. Moths and butterflies are fairly easy to keep out of the greenhouse with a
little care, a double entry way and a fly swatter.

The Tomato Pinworm

This is one caterpillar that can become fairly well established in a greenhouse having
several tomato plants. Unlike most caterpillars, this larva lives between the upper and
lower leaf surfaces. This habit makes it very difficult to eliminate with conventional
chemicals or biological stomach poisons. A firm squeeze of the leaf occupant will
effectively stop the feeding and development of the caterpillar. In a small greenhouse,
this will be effective if efforts are made to keep adults out and if the few caterpillars that
develop from the eggs of adults that do get into the greenhouse are hunted down and
squeezed. Some growers prefer to wear rubber gloves when doing this job.

Aphids
Aphids are sometimes referred to as plant lice because they suck the juices of the plant.
They are fairly small and easily transported into the greenhouse on incoming plants or
the clothing of people who have been around infected plants. Although most aphids are
wingless, there is a winged stage that develops when the population gets crowded or in
the fall, when the aphids spread. This is a much more mobile form of the aphid.
There are many different kinds and colors of aphids. What you may get in your
greenhouse is determined to some extent by what kind of crops are being grown
outside in your area and what kind of aphids feed on them. A major crop that is
harvested and almost completely removed from the field in a short time period can
leave many aphids without lunch. They will move around as much as they can while
looking for a food source. Your chance of getting aphids into your greenhouse after an
event like this in your area is great unless you take precautions like having a double
entry way and having the air intakes screened as discussed earlier. A closer inspection
of yourself and others entering the greenhouse is also in order when hungry aphids are
looking for a living green spot in your neighborhood. Aphid populations can build very
rapidly in a favorable environment, and a greenhouse environment is favorable to many
aphids. Except for when they are preparing for over-wintering, aphids bear living young.
To make matters worse, female aphids can do this on a repetitive basis without the
participation of a male aphid. The offspring are female and can contribute to the
population surge by producing their own young within a few days.
Once aphids are in the greenhouse, the use of insecticides will be necessary. Many
insecticides are labeled for aphids. Some organic preparations are suggested for
aphids. Several beneficials are also effective against aphids.

Whiteflies
Whiteflies love a greenhouse environment. Although they can fly, they are not strong
fliers and don’t do well if there is much of a breeze let alone a wind. The greenhouse
environment protects them against sudden strong air movements. When they fly,
whiteflies form a zigzag flight pattern that runs for a short distance that is generally a
maximum of three to five feet. They are well known by most commercial and hobby
greenhouse growers.
The traditional Greenhouse Whitefly has been joined by additional types of whiteflies.
The names include:
Sweet Potato Whitefly, Silver Winged Whitefly and Tobacco Whitefly. When, however,
one of the other whiteflies comes in, it can drive the traditional Greenhouse Whitefly out.
For a while, there can be a mixture of the whiteflies in the greenhouse. Eventually,
however, the other whitefly wins out and the Greenhouse Whitefly disappears.

The Sweet Potato Whitefly, the Silver Winged Whitefly and the Tobacco Whitefly are all
a little more difficult to control with chemicals and they require a different predator than
that which will control the Greenhouse Whitefly.
It would be a good idea to get help identifying the kind of whitefly you have in the
greenhouse when you detect a population starting. Check this each year, because the
type of whitefly infesting the greenhouse can change from year to year in the same
area.
Whitefly adults usually congregate at the top of plants. They lay their eggs on the
bottom side of the upper plant leaves. The eggs hatch and go through three larval
stages while on the bottom of the leaves. The last two larval stages settle down in one
location and suck the juices from the leaf cells. This is followed by a pupal stage from
which the new adult whitefly emerges. During the time this temperature dependent, 21
plus day process occurs, the plant continues to grow. Later stages of the life cycle are
found lower on vertically growing plants.
Because of the life cycle of the whitefly, it is difficult to control. You may get all the
adults but more may hatch out the following day. Even if there are no adult whiteflies on
plants brought into the greenhouse, whitefly eggs or immatures may ride in on them.
Yellow sticky cards are often used at the top of the plants as whitefly population
monitors. They can also be used to help in the early detection of whitefly presence in
the greenhouse.

Spider Mites
Spider Mites are very small mites that can be seen if you know what to look for and
where to look. Even adult mites do not fly – they do not have wings. They are in the
family of spiders and are not technically considered insects. Many insecticides,
therefore, will not be effective. Miticides are used to kill Spider Mites.
Spider Mites prefer some plants over others. Cucumber and squash plants, for
example, will be inhabited by Spider Mites before tomato plants located in the same
greenhouse. However, if the cucumber or squash plants are removed, the Spider Mites
will certainly move to the tomato plants rather than starving to death.
Feeding consists of the sucking of plant juices by the immature and mature Spider
Mites. Often, Spider Mites will start on the underside of the leaves at the top of the
plant. They prefer a dryer, warmer environment, and the top of the plant is usually dryer
and warmer lower portions of the plant. Heavy feeding by large Spider Mite populations
will give the leaf a speckled, yellowed out appearance. Closer examination, with a
magnifying glass if needed, will reveal the Spider Mites.
Webbing that looks very much like spider webbing will be evident on severely infested
plants. When the webbing appears, the Spider Mite population is very well established
in the crop and greenhouse.
Spider mites can be present in outside gardens and crops. It is very easy to carry them
from these locations into the greenhouse if precautions are not taken. Field crops like
soybeans are very susceptible to Spider Mites.

Leaf Miners
Leaf Miners are a challenging pest. The adult looks like a small fly. Unless you have a
background in Entomology, you probably will not identify the adults as a problem even if
you see a few of them on your sticky yellow monitoring cards.
The adult Leaf Miner lays an egg on the leaf of the plant. The larvae tunnels and eats
leaf tissue from between the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf. Once the larva is
inside the leaf, it is protected against anything that would be sprayed on it. There are
beneficial parasites that will control and eliminate Leaf Minors when properly introduced.
Leaf Miners usually pupate in the soil. If the larva drops onto a hard surface like a
concrete floor, it will be killed and will not complete its life cycle. Hydroponic
greenhouses having concrete floors are less likely to have Leaf Miner problems than
greenhouses with other flooring surfaces.

Gnats
Gnats are usually more a nuisance than a real damaging problem in the greenhouse.
Adults lay their eggs in the algae on the growing media or other lighted surface in the
greenhouse. The larvae mainly live on dead organic matter. Once in a while, the larvae
will nibble on a few young roots.
The adults make a nuisance of themselves by flying up into your face when they are
disturbed and detract from your enjoyment of your plants by their presence on your
plants.
Beneficial nematodes can be used to control Fungus Gnats. Some chemicals and
natural products can also be used to control them. Because there are so many places in
the greenhouses that gnats can breed, it is difficult to cover them all with a sprayed
material.

Slugs
Slugs work the night shift. They’re neither insects or mites. They chew on the leaf tissue
and leave holes in the leaves. They do this at night and then hide during the day, when
it is very difficult to spot them. Many people think they have a mystery problem when
they have slug damage. There are a few clues that can be identified. The droppings
look very much like those of caterpillars.The slug trails, however, are the dead giveaway
clue. Slugs will leave a narrow silvery trail where they have crawled. This sometimes
can be seen on the plant stem and leaf where their feeding damage can be seen.
Find the slug’s hiding place in the greenhouse and eliminate it. Slugs will hide under
loose dead leaves or under a piece of wood or other items lying on the ground or the
floor of the greenhouse. They can sometimes get under plant pots and hide. Hunt them
down and escort them out of the greenhouse.