12 Info and Work Sheet Perform Under Chassis Preventive Maintenance

BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.
Lucban-Tayabas Road
Brgy. ManasaLucban,Quezon
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: UNDER CHASSIS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

1. Match terms associated with the under chassis preventive maintenance.
2. List functions of the different parts of under chassis.
3. Explain the importance of under chassis preventive maintenance.
4. Demonstrate the ability to:
a. Check clutch and brake fluid lines
b. Check clutch fluid
c. Inspect/replace power steering fluid
d. Check/refill automatic transmission fluid
e. Check tire and tire pressure
f. Check under chassis body parts, bolts and nuts
Information Sheet 12.1-1

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICE
OF CLUTCH AND BRAKE SYSTEM
How to Change Brake Lines
How quickly your vehicle stops is more important than how fast it accelerates. In spite of the
built-in warning signs lights indicating brake fluid levels and dual brake fluid (or master cylinder)
reservoirs a car's brakes can fail rather unexpectedly. While procedures may vary slightly depending
on the vehicle, here are some general tips on how to change brake lines.
Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

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OVERHAULING MANUAL Date Revised: Dec. 20, 2018 Page 1 of 41
TRANSMISSION Developed by:
Mr. Ryan M. Fabricante
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Method 1 of 3: Locating the Brake Lines
Take off the hubcaps, loosen the lug nuts and secure the car on jack stands.
Reverse mount one lug nut on every tire and fasten it against the rotor.
Open the hood and find the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir).

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Examine the brake fluid level in the reservoir for leaks. A drop in fluid typically indicates worn
brake pads or shoes. Replenish any lost fluid and recap the cylinder.
Check to see if the master cylinder is damp and replace if necessary.
Move along the vehicle’s underside looking for signs of a leak. You may need to feel along the
brake line itself since the fluid’s transparency makes it difficult to see.
Pursue both brake lines to the tires. Pay particular attention to the area where the brake lines
connect to the wheel cylinders. Change the cylinders if they show signs of moisture.
Method 2 of 3: Changing the Brake Lines

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Take the wheel off for easier access to change brake lines. Spritz the area where the hose and
caliper or brake drum intersect and any rusted clips with a deep-reaching lubricant, such as WD-40.
Let the sprayed parts sit for about one hour.
Loosen and dislodge the fittings with a “flare nut” or “line wrench.” Cap off the brake lines if
there are signs that brake fluid is leaking.
Detach any clips and fasteners that are securing the brake hose to the struts or body
mount. Put in a new hose and secure all its fittings.

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Refresh any lost brake fluid before bleeding the brake lines.
Method 3 of 3: Testing the Brakes
Place the wheels back on their hubs and screw the lug nuts into place by hand. Lower your
vehicle to the ground, tighten the lug nuts securely, and then replace the hub caps.
Tap the brake pedal a few times without the motor running until all the slack in the line is
removed.

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Go for a test drive to see if the brakes are functioning correctly. If your brakes feel “soft” when
applied bleed the brake lines again
Tips
 Follow proper safety procedures when jacking up a vehicle.

 Change your brake lines in pairs. When one line needs bleeding most likely the second one
will too.
 Avoid brake fluid coming in contact with rubber or plastic materials.
 Protect your hands with latex or rubber gloves.
Warnings
 Only use the brake fluid and brake lines that are recommended for your make and model
vehicle. Consult your owner’s manual or with any auto parts store.
 Brake fluid will melt your car’s paint. In case of fluid spills rinse the area immediately with
cool water.
HOW TO CHECK CLUTCH FLUID
While most drivers today prefer vehicles with automatic transmissions, some drivers still
swear by manual transmission cars and trucks. Manual transmission vehicles either use a cable to
connect the clutch to the transmission or a hydraulic system with a fluid reservoir. If your car has a
stick shift with a hydraulic clutch, here's how to check the clutch fluid level.
Open the car's hood. It's best to do so when the car is stopped on a level surface, with the engine
cold.

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Look for the clutch fluid reservoir. On most cars with hydraulic clutches, the clutch fluid reservoir
is located near the brake master cylinder at the back of the engine bay but is smaller than the brake
fluid reservoir.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir should either be filled to the top, or filled to
between the minimum and maximum lines shown on the reservoir, depending on the car in question.
On most newer cars, the reservoir will be made of translucent plastic, while older cars may have
metal reservoirs, requiring you to remove the reservoir cap before you can see the fluid level.
Add fluid to the reservoir. Pour the fluid carefully into the reservoir, wiping up any spills.Hydraulic
clutches use the same type of fluid as hydraulic brake systems. Use the fluid with the DOT
specification recommended in your car's owner's manual.

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Replace the reservoir cap and close the hood. Be sure the gasket on the cap seats correctly.
Tips
 How often you need to check the level in the clutch fluid reservoir depends on the car. Some
cars require the fluid level be checked once a month, while others need to have the fluid level
checked only once a year.
INFORMATION SHEET – 12.2-1

REPLACE MANUAL TRANSMISSION and DIFFERENTIAL FLUID
Most people ignore transmission fluids. Even worse most people only talk about the
importance of flushing an automatic transmission. If you have a manual transmission
automobile, don't neglect that gearbox. Old oil can have metal shavings in it as well as
sludge build up. Just as with motor oil, and oil change is cheap insurance.
Replace Manual Transmission Gear Oil

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Step 1: Gathering of Tools.
 Jack and Axle stands or tire ramps to get your car off the ground
 Set of wrenches and ratchet set (depending on your vehicle.)
 Torque wrench
 Oil drain bucket of some type
 Fluid pump
 Rags
 WD - 40 or penetrating oil
 Gear oil (most likely 75-90 or 80-90, check your owner’s manual)
Step 2: Locate and Remove the "filler Bolt"

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First Jack your vehicle up by the jack points and secure the vehicle with the axle/jack
stands. NEVER GO UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY THE JACK!
Next we will locate and remove the filler bolt. In some cases the filler bolt will become
completely siezed that heating it won't even work. Or the filler bolt may become stripped. If
this happens to you, you don't want to this to happen with an empty transmission.
In the first image we see the bottom of the transmission looking up. The recessed bolt on
the bottom is the drain. The square head on the side is the filler.
Loosen the filler by selecting the proper wrench (not an adjustable one!) and turn the
wrench counter clockwise. If the bolt doesn't let go; spray the wd-40 on the bolt and let sit
for 1 hour. Still stuck. Don't force it too much as it may break. You can use a propane, or
MPS gas torch to heat the housing around the bolt and then gently apply pressure to loosen
it. In the picture you can see I used the wd-40
If the bolt still won't budge. Stop. Lower the car and visit a shop for service in rare cases the
transmission must be removed and taken to a machine shop.
If you get the bolt loose. Unscrew it, but don't remove it completely.
Step 3: Remove the Drain Bolt

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Use the same process you used to remove the filler bolt to remove the drain bolt. On my
vehicles, the drain bolt is a perfect fit for a 3/4 inch drive ratchet.
Loosen the drain, place the drain pan under the transmission and then remove the drain bolt
allowing the oil to drain.
Step 4: Clean the Magnet and Remove the Filler Bolt.
The drain bolt usually has a magnet on it that catches the metal shavings. Clean them off
really well. you can see how filthy it was on this vehicle. I'm betting it's been over 50,000
Kms for this vehicle.

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Now remove the filler bolt. (you waited until now to keep the oil from draining too quickly and
splashing all over.
Step 5: Replace the Drain Bolt.
Replace the drain bolt, thread it on by hand first for at least 3 complete revolutions to make
sure you haven't cross threaded it. Then tighten it with the ratchet. Lastly tighten it with a
torque wrench to the manufacturers specifications. If you are unaware of the settings call
your dealer and they will tell you.
Step 6: Fill the Oil. Close the Filler Bolt.

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Add your gear oil back into the gearbox using the oil pump. Fill the oil into the filler until the
oil reaches the level of the filler (It will ooze back out.)
replace the filler bolt once again turning it by hand for a few revolutions. then tighten it and
torque it using a torque wrench.
Step 7: Drive
Clean up and take the car for a test drive.
Please take your used oil to a recycling depot. It's free in many areas. Old oil can be
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processed into Diesel fuel or plastics among other things.
Information Sheet – 12.3-1

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICE of
POWER STEERING

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How to Check and Add Power Steering Fluid
All but the smallest cars have a hydraulic power-steering system that enables the driver to
turn the steering wheel without a great deal of effort. The power-steering system consists of several
items: a rack and pinion connected to the front wheels; a piston inside the rack and pinion, which is
moved by pressurized fluid from the power-steering pump that helps to turn the wheels; and a
cylinder containing fluid above the pump. (If there isn't enough fluid, steering becomes more difficult
and either the pump or rack and pinion could be damaged without fluid to cushion them.) Therefore,
it's important to check power-steering fluid levels on a regular basis and add fluid when necessary.
Steps
Look for the reservoir cylinder.
If you're having difficulty turning the steering wheel or a high-pitched wheezing noise issues
from the steering wheel when you turn it, chances are your power-steering fluid is low. The power-
steering fluid can be found in a cylindrical reservoir near one end of the power-steering belt, and
should be clearly labeled. The cylinder may be made of either plastic or metal.
o If you can't find the cylinder, consult your owner's manual for the location. While the
power-steering reservoir is usually located in the same space in most cars, newer
vehicles may place them elsewhere for economy or space.
Check the level of the power-steering fluid.

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If the reservoir cylinder is made of translucent plastic, you may be able to see the fluid level
inside the cylinder. If the reservoir cylinder is made of metal, or if the plastic is not sufficiently
transparent, you'll check the fluid level with a dipstick, which is usually attached to the cap.
o On some cars, the power-steering fluid level can only be checked accurately after the
engine has run for a brief period, and sometimes you must also turn the steering
wheel in either direction several times while the car idles.
o On other cars, there are gradations on the dipstick or cylinder for both a "hot" level,
after the engine has been running, and a "cold" level, after the engine has been off for
a period of time. On still other cars, there may be "Min" and "Max" lines for acceptable
fluid levels. Be sure to compare the power-steering fluid level against the correct
mark.
Examine how much of the dipstick is covered by power-steering fluid.
If you are using a dipstick to test the power-steering fluid level, first wipe off any excess fluid
from the dipstick when you first take it out of the cylinder, then reinsert it as far down as it will go and
pull it out again.
Examine the color of the power-steering fluid.
Good power-steering fluid should be clear, amber or pinkish in color.

o If the power-steering fluid is brown or black, it has been contaminated with bits of
rubber from connecting hoses, seals or O-rings. In this case, the car should be taken
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to a mechanic to see if any of the power-steering system parts need to be replaced,
along with the fluid.
o The power-steering fluid may look darker than it actually is. If you have any doubts,
look at the color of the power-steering fluid stain on the rag or paper towel you wiped
your dipstick off with. If the stain is the color the fluid is supposed to be, your fluid is
not contaminated.
Add power-steering fluid as needed to the correct fill level.
If your car has gradations on the cylinder, you can add the fluid steadily until you reach the
correct "hot" or "cold" fill level; if you checked the level with a dipstick, add the fluid incrementally to
avoid overfilling the reservoir.
 Be sure to use only the power-steering fluid that is recommended for your car, as it will be
the correct viscosity (thickness) for your car's power-steering system.
 If you have no power-steering fluid available and you're in a pinch, you can also use
automatic transmission fluid instead. Power-steering and automatic transmission fluid are
identical except for color: Transmission fluid is dyed red or pink.
Be careful not to overfill your power-steering unit with fluid. It's probably better to under fill your
unit than overfill it. That's because power-steering fluid expands as it heats up and works its magic.
If you fill your unit all the way to the top and then try to drive your car, the expanded pressure could
begin to cause problems and might necessitate expensive repairs.

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Replace the cylinder cap.
TIPS:
Power-steering fluid should be checked at regular intervals. If you notice a significant drop in the
cylinder level, or have to add fluid frequently, you may have a leak somewhere in the power-steering
system. If you hear a noise when you turn the steering wheel, it means the power-steering pump is
starving for fluid.

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Information Sheet 12.2-1
PREVENTIVE MAINTENACE SERVICE
Of AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Automatic transmission fluid should be changed from time to time in order to extend the life
of the transmission. “Changing” the fluid is not the same as “flushing” the transmission, which is a
much more complicated job. Flushing should be done every 50,000 miles or so while changing can
be done as often as every 10,000 miles, but always check your manufacturer's recommended
maintenance schedule.
Steps
Elevate the car, so you can crawl under it.

Unless you have access to a hydraulic lift of the kind that auto repair shops have, you will have to
use jack stands to support the car.
Crawl under the car and locate the transmission fluid pan.
The pan will be attached to the bottom of the transmission.

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Drain the fluid. This can be done by two methods. Neither of these methods removes all the
transmission fluid. About 50 percent of the fluid will remain in the transmission. To remove all the
fluid (including the fluid in the torque converter), you must flush the transmission completely.
o If the oil pan has a drain remove the plug to drain the fluid into a collection pan. Use a
pan that can contain up to ten quarts of transmission fluid, although that much probably will not
drain out. Realize that if you use this method you will not be able to change the transmission fluid
filt
Remove the transmission fluid pan.
If there is no drain plug, you will have to remove the entire transmission fluid pan.
o Unscrew the two upper-most bolts half way. Then unscrew the other bolts all the way.
As soon as the last bolt is completely unscrewed, the pan may drop a bit and fluid will
begin draining. If the transmission pan does not drop on its own, you may have to
whack it with a rubber mallet.

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o Because the fluid will drain around the pan (rather than through a drain plug hole),
you will need a collection pan at least as wide as the transmission pan itself if you
don’t want to make a mess.
o Change the transmission fluid filter as well, which will be visible now that the
transmission pan has been removed. Just pull it off. Be sure to remember to install a
new filter!
o Most automatic transmission pans have a magnet inside to collect metal shavings
that have been produced by worn moving parts. Remove these shavings along with
the remaining fluid in the pan.
o Check the transmission pan gasket. It will probably need to be replaced.
o Reattach the transmission pan.
Lower the car off the jack stands.
Add new transmission fluid. There are different kinds of transmission fluid. Make sure to use the
kind recommended by the car manufacturer. Check your owner’s manual.
o Remove the transmission fluid dip stick. The new fluid goes directly into this spout.
o You will need to use a funnel. Pour in a little less fluid than drained out so as not to
overfill.

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Start the car and allow it to run for a few minutes. Turn off the car and check the fluid level. If the
level is low, add more fluid. Repeat until the transmission fluid is at the right level.
What you'll need
 Clean Rag
 Sockets
 Container
 Funnel
 Ramps

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INFORMATION SHEET 12.4-1
PREVENTIVE MAINTENACE SERVICE of
TIRES
How to Check Air Pressure in Tires
Inaccurate pressure can cause poor mileage, uneven tire wear, or a tire blow-out. To prevent these
events from happening it is important to maintain proper tire pressure. Check your tire pressure at
least every month to ensure that you're getting the most out of your tires — and that your tires are
being treated well.
Part 1 of 2: Checking Air Pressure in Tires

Make sure the tires are "cold." This means that the vehicle hasn't been driven for more than 2km.
Checking air pressure in cold tires ensures that the air hasn't expanded from heat, giving you a more
accurate reading.

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Look in the owners' manual or on the inside of the driver's side door for the standard cold
tire inflation pressure. This number is the lowest PSI one would inflate the tires to and is
suggested by the car's manufacturer. Read below for reasons inflation may be placed higher.
o For most sedans, minivans, and even minipickups, manufacturers generally
recommend a PSI (pounds per square inch) in the range of 27 to 32, but can reach all
the way up to 40.
o For larger vehicles that need to carry a larger burden, such as trucks and SUVs, the
PSI is generally 4 to 8 PSI greater than it would be in smaller cars, perhaps around
45.
o Also note that the front and back tires may need different pressures, according to the
manufacturer.
Unscrew the valve stem cap from the valve stem on the tire. The valve stem is a black pencil-
sized extension near the hubcap, about 1" (2-3 cm) long.
Press the air pressure gauge evenly onto the valve stem and record the reading given. If there
is a hissing sound, the gauge is not tight or even enough for an accurate reading. The angle of the
gauge may need to be adjusted.
o If you are using a digital model gauge, you may or may not need to press a button in
order for the gauge to read the air pressure. If you are using a traditional gauge, the
metered stick should give you a reading automatically.

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Note that if the reading is the same as the manuals' specifications, you are done after
checking all other tires for the same pressure. If inadequate pressure is in the tires then fill air in
the tires. Make sure you put in the correct amount.
Replace valve stem cap. The cap does not hold air in, but it keeps dirt and moisture away from the
valve mechanism in the valve stem, which does hold air in.
Part 2 of 2: Performance Considerations

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Know that the manufacturer's PSI recommendations don't translate into optimum tire
performance. For all-around driving, the manufacturer's specifications are probably ideal, but
adding a couple extra pounds of pressure into your tires may mean better fuel efficiency. Overall,
adding a few pounds of PSI to your tires may make your ride a bit bumpier and less pleasant, so use
with exact!
Understand the myth about the "max press" value in the owner's manual or driver's side
door. One popular misconception is that the max pressure suggested by the manufacturer is all the
pressure the tire can handle before it pops or malfunctions. In truth, the max pressure is the
pressure at which the tires will carry the maximum amount of weight.
o Although it's probably not great for your tires, you can inflate them past their max
pressure limit for performance, especially if the tires are new. Some sources even
suggest that you can inflate your tires at multiples of the limit and still get away with it.

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o As soon as you inflate the tires past the max pressure limit, be prepared for the
possibility of malfunction. If your tires are bearing heavier air pressure, a pothole at
high speeds could spell disaster.
Add a few extra pounds of pressure to the back tires if you're carrying extra cargo,
carpooling, etc. If you happen to be carrying a heavier load in your car, especially if you are
traveling for longer distances, don't be afraid to add a few pounds of PSI to your rear wheels to
offset the added weight. When the weight is unloaded, release the pressure from the rear tiles back
to its standard specifications.
Check the air pressure of your tires as the seasons change. Cold weather will reduce the air
pressure, while warm weather will increase the air pressure. It's therefore very important to re-check
tire pressure when the seasons change.

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Never rely on the eyeball method to gauge air pressure in tires. Don't get lazy. It's very difficult
to tell the difference between a tire with 10 PSI and 20 PSI. Plus, tires normally exhibit a bit of a
bulge on the sidewall of radial tires. If you inflate the tires until the bulge is gone, you run the risk of
seriously over-inflating your tires, past the point at which they get a performance boost.
Tips
 Sunlight heats up tires even if they're not driven. For more even readings take note that not
one side of the car has sun shining on it.
 The PSI listed on the sidewall of the tire is the max cold pressure for the tire carrying the
highest (weight) load the tire supports.
 Additional fuel economy and improved steering response can be obtained at the price of a
firmer ride if the tire's inflation is increased above what is recommended by the car's
manufacturer. This shouldn't exceed the max pressure listed on the tire's sidewall. Test the
car to see if its driving feel is improved.
 Increase the cold tire pressure if the car will be carrying a heavy load or driven at high
speeds for long times.
 If the car has to be driven to add air note the pressure before driving away. Then add the
difference above when the reading is now. For instance if you wish to inflate your tires to
35psi and they're reading 30psi cold. The tires are 5psi underinflated so when you add air
after driving and they now read 33psi adjust them to be 38psi. They should then read 35psi
when cold.
 Tires cannot be "eye-balled" for pressure, particularly modern radials. Always use an
accurate gauge.
Warnings
 An underinflated tire causes more sidewall flexing that increases stopping distance, lowers
fuel economy and shortens the life of a tire. In rare cases the tire can blowout because of
excessive heat from too much sidewall flexing and can even roll off the wheel in emergency
maneuvers.
 An overinflated tire (filled above the max cold pressure on the sidewall) makes for a harsher
ride and makes it more prone to damage if you hit pot-holes or other objects in the road.
 Do not rely solely on the air pump gauge at the gas station. These pumps take a lot of abuse
(slammed against concrete, ran over, etc.) and may not be calibrated properly...it is best to
fill your tire "above" the recommended PSI, using the gauge on their pump, but then once
done, check the tires using "your" gauge. Always base your final readings using "your gauge"
for best accurate
INFORMATION SHEET 12.5-1

CHECK UNDER CHASSIS BODY BOLT AND NUT
The general maintenance requirements are much the same for this chassis as for any high
performance vehicle. As this vehicle is basically a competition car, its maintenance should be
looked at more like.
Some basics are as follows.

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Cleanliness of the suspension components
This is an area in which most vehicles are completely ignored throughout their operating life.
It is recommended as good practice that all components of the suspension (IE. rod ends, A-arms,
coil-over dampers, anti-roll bars, etc.) be cleaned by hand with shop towels that are lightly coated
with WD-40 or its equivalent on an every 5000 mile basis. This allows the owner to inspect all bolts
and various components both visually and by feel for any damage that may have occurred in use
and for any loosening or increase in clearances due to wear.
Cleanliness of stressed skin chassis
This is also an area typically overlooked in maintenance. As this chassis relies on all of its
components for strength and performance, the cleaning of the chassis allows the owner to inspect
all areas for damage from usage. Cleaning is as recommended above. Of particular importance are
rock dings in the paint on the chassis. These will allow corrosion to begin, therefore when found,
these must be touched up by application of fresh chassis paint just as you would touch up the paint
on your Bodywork.
Chassis and Suspension bolt and nut torque
It is extremely good practice to check the status of bolt and nut torque's on a regular basis. If
the vehicle is being raced full time, this is done before each practice/qualifying session and then
checked again before the race. If the vehicle is only used for road use, it is recommended that these
are checked every 15,000 miles or after usage on particularly bad road conditions. (IE. Washboard
surfaces, or on Northern roads after the winter) It is also recommended that a chemical locking
compound be used on all bolts. (Loctite blue, not red.)
Chassis fluids and Lubrication of components
1. Front upper Rocker Arm grease fittings. These should be lubed every 15,000 miles with a
Molybdenum filled grease such as Sta-Lube NO. 3141 Moly graph. (Note: Lithium based with
2 % Molybdenum Disulfide/2 % graphite)
Warning: Do not use a lubricant with more than 10% moly or graphite! This will damage the
composite bearings in the rocker arms.
2. Upper and lower front Rod Ends.
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3. Rod Ends. (Pickup points and anti-roll bars) These are all racing quality PTFE lined units.
Therefore no lubrication is required. It is good practice to clean the rod ends with a shop
towel every 5000 miles.
4. Anti-roll bar blades. These are assembled at the factory with Moly based lube at both the
rodend and rotator section. (Sta-Lube NO.3141) Unless the vehicle is used for competition
and the bars are adjusted constantly, you should be able to go 15000-30,000 miles before
any lubricant renewal is required on the rotator end.
5. Pedal assembly. The bearings on the pedal pivots and master cylinder rods should have a
application of spray type white lithium grease every 15,000 miles.
6. All body hinges, striker plates, latches, etc. should have a application of spray type white
lithium grease every 5000 miles or as required through inspection.
7. Wheel bearings. As these units are sealed cartridge type bearings, no maintenance is
required.
8. Brake and clutch fluid. Use only DOT 4 fluid. The braking system requires high temperature
fluid. Brake fluid is recommended. It is also recommended that the systems be bled and fluid
completely replaced before every race or once a year for road use.
NOTE: Silicone fluids must NOT be used as they will damage master cylinder and brake
caliper seals.
9. Rear traction-lock limited slip unit. For road usage a 90 weight limited slip lubrication as
recommended by FORD is required. For competition usage, REDLINE Synthetic lubricants
are preferred.
10. Rear Constant Velocity joints and half shafts. These should be inspected and re-lubricated
every 25,000 miles with a high pressure moly-based lube. For competition use these units
are typically checked after every race for axle damage and wear, therefore lubrication is
renewed at this time and lubrication specification.
11. Fuel Cell. If the vehicle is going to be stored or not used for a significant time period, the fuel
cell should be drained completely and all fumes allowed to vent. This is to prevent the
forming of varnishes in the foam filled cell.
NOTE: Some fuel suppliers suggest the complete filling of the unit before storage. Check with
your fuel supplier for recommendation. (NOTE: addition of alcohol for storage is NOT
recommended.)
12. Batteries. The batteries supplied with the vehicle are sealed type which have a 72 month life.
There is no need to add anything to these units during their life time. If you store the car,
make sure to remove the ground straps to avoid any current leakage over the long term. This
will also prevent any galvanic action between dissimilar metals in the chassis during storage
in high humidity areas.
13. Radiator and cooling system. As the radiator and supply pipes are aluminum, it is most
important that a non-corrosive type premium anti-freeze and summer coolant such as PEAK
or its equivalent be used. It is also very important that all air is removed / bled from the
system upon filling as the radiator is of the cross flow type and can trap air in itself and its
related plumbing.

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14. Dry sump tank and system. (Competition only or optional for road use) The oil level is
checked on level ground, at the dry sump tank dipstick, with the engine running and the
engine oil at 140 degrees f. minimum. When changing oil, the engine sump as well as the dry
sump tank must be drained separately. It is of great importance that the oil be hot before
changing, otherwise a minimum of two (2) quarts of old oil will remain in the system. System
capacity is 12 to 13 quarts depending on your engine sump, oil cooler, and filter
configuration. It is very important to prime the system after oil change.
Chassis Bolt Torques
Front Suspension
Lower outboard rod end nut. 75 ft lbs.*
Lower inboard rod end mount bolts. 24 ft lbs.*
Upper Rocker arm shaft. 15 ft lbs.*
Upper Rocker arm inboard bracket bolts. 30 ft lbs.*
Upper rod end nut. 30 ft lbs.*
Anti-roll Bar mount bolts. (frame attachment) 35 ft lbs.*
(Cap attachment) 25 ft lbs.*
Anti-roll Bar blade actuator bolts. 15 ft lbs.*
Anti-roll Bar rod end nut. 14 ft lbs.*
Upper and lower damper bolts 35 ft lbs.*
Wheel mount nuts.(use Never~Seize lubricant) 75 ft lbs.
Rear Suspension
Lower outboard pivot bolts 34 ft lbs.*
Lower inboard rod end mount bolts 24 ft lbs.*
Toe Link rod end bolt 24 ft lbs.*
Upper outboard pivot bolt 34 ft lbs.*
Upper inboard rod end mount bolts 24 ft lbs.*
Anti-roll Bar mount bolts. (frame attachment) 35 ft lbs.*

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Anti-roll Bar blade actuator bolts. 35 ft lbs.*
Anti-roll Bar rod end nut. 14 ft lbs.*
Upper and lower damper bolts 35 ft lbs.*
Wheel mount nuts. (use Never~Seize lubricant) 75 ft lbs.
General Items
1/4 bolts 6 ft lbs.*
SELF CHECK 12.1-1
______ 1. Which of the following does NOT help extend the life of your tires?
A. Regularly checking and adjusting tire pressure to recommended levels

B. Rotating your tires multiple times a year
C. Checking the tread on your tires with the “penny test.”
D. Aligning the wheels once per year
______ 2. To extend the life of your tires, how often should you rotate them?
A. Every 1,000 to 2,000 miles

B. Every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
C. Every 10,000 to 15,000 miles
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D. Rotating tires doesn’t really extend their life.
______ 3. How can low tire pressure negatively affect your driving?
A. Compromised cornering, braking and stability

B. Decreased fuel efficiency
C. Uneven wear and increased chance of tire failure
D. Both B and C
E. All of the above
______ 4. How often should you change your oil and oil filter?
A. Every 3,000 miles

B. Depends on your driving style and conditions (stop-and-go vs. mostly highway)
C. Depends on the car year and model
D. Both B and C
E. All of the above
______ 5. Your car’s air filter should be inspected for signs of wear (e.g., oil or water soaked,
leaking, torn or restricted) after every oil change, but how often should it be
replaced even if it’s not failing?
A. Once every 6 months

B. Once per year
C. Every two years
D. Every 50,000 miles
Answers Sheet 12.1-1
Multiple Choice
1. C - Although the penny test is an effective method to monitor the treads of your tires to know
when they need to be replaced, it does nothing to physically reduce wear and extend the life of your
tires. The other methods actively help reduce uneven wear and can keep your tires running for
longer.
2. B - The tires on wheels with power supplied to them will wear down more quickly. Regular tire
rotations distribute that wear evenly across all four tires. For those who drive about 15,000 miles per
year, that means rotating your tires at least twice per year (every 5,000 to 8,000 miles).
3. E - Your tires should be kept at the factory-recommended pressure denoted on the walls of each.
This ensures an ideal point of contact of the tread to the road so the tires don’t drag excessively,
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which can wear them out prematurely and use more fuel. Check tire pressure once per month after
the vehicle has been sitting overnight.
4. D - Your engine’s oil keeps the pistons lubricated and rids the engine of contaminants and
impurities. Over time, as it gets dirty and loses volume, it needs to be replaced. Engine and oil
technology have improved over the years, allowing most modern vehicles to go far beyond 3,000
miles before they need an oil change. Check your owner’s manual and talk with your mechanic
about your driving habits to develop an ideal interval for your vehicle.
5. B - In modern vehicles, a clogged air filter will not significantly affect fuel efficiency, but it can
mean a significant decrease in acceleration (up to 11 percent). Replacing it once per year can
ensure a vehicle’s top performance, but many can last for up to 30,000 miles.
BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.

Lucban-Tayabas Road
Brgy. ManasaLucban,Quezon
WORK SHEET
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: DISMANTLING MANUAL TRANSMISSION
II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

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 Assemble and disassemble manual transmission
 Demonstrate occupational health and safety in doing the activity
III. TIME:60min.
IV. TOOLS:
a. Screw driver
b.End wrench
c. Shop towel
d. Water source
e. Safety glasses
f. Jack stand
g. Crocodile jack
II.Procedure
Procedure in Dismantling Manual Transmission
1. Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can get it (you will need to slide the tranny out the
bottom), make sure it is not going anywhere – it will be shaken a bit. Also we found it best to take off
the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the
draining bolt.
2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. Remove the console from the car – only a
few bolts and it will lift off.

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3. Remove the 2 harnesses that come out of your carpet and connect to the a/t shifter.
4. Remove the Cotter pin holding the A/T shifter to the A/T tranny
5. Remove the shifter and all the stuff that comes with it. You will now see the ground through your
center console.
5 1/2. remove the shifter cable that goes to the ignition, it controls the key release

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6. Next, take out the driveshaft. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft
to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from
spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then
reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the
floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from
whipping around if it breaks. Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and
slide out your drive shaft.

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7. Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bell housing, they are at the very front of the
transmission.
8. There are some A/T cooling hardlines that run all over the automatic transmission, and two that
run to the radiator. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Don’t be afraid to bend them – you
won’t ever use them again. Get them out of your engine bay.

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9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your
exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut.
10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave
your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission
bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and
a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other
bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. One of
the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission –
disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect
the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to
access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the
engine block – we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose.

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11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the
tranny and remove off the cross member. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the
tranny – in a few steps it will come off.Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must
remove.
12. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into
the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel – undo these 4
bolts. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley.
Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke.

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13. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose (if not, you can kick it
from the front some) – it will pop off and weighs about 250 – 300 lbs. ( a good bit more than the 5
speed – which means that this is a weight reduction!) Get some of your friends to help with this part.
Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get
before. Then slowly lower the tranny the rest of the way – you don’t want it to fall to one side and
knock out a jack stand
14. This next step is very frustrating. The automatic flywheel is held on by 6 bolts torqued down to
about 120 ft/lbs, and your flywheel will try to turn when you try to break these bolts. Brace your
flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from
spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground
tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a
propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If
you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy.

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15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a ¼ inch out of the
crankshaft. This is the A/T adapter bearing –and you don’t want an A/T. To remove the bushing
either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel (which will take about 30 minutes to an hour) or go
rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it (which will take about
20 seconds).
note: on my car, the A/T adapter bearing would not budge, and even broke the bearing puller
tool.Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out.

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Procedure in Installing Manual Transmission
1. Now you are about halfway done. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this
will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take
a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Once it gets slid
in all the way it should not go any further (but it does go pretty far into the crankshaft).Then, push on
your manual transmission gasket (it should align itself on some dowels)
2. Slide the new flywheel on (there are 2 little holes that line up (on one the
flywheel and one on the crankshaft), but nothing actually goes thru them – but we still lined them up)
Put back in the flywheel bolts, and torque them down to 100ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern. Get them
on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all
over.Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar.

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3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. Keep the alignment tool
in the clutch and the crankshaft – you will take it off later. Make sure you have the correct side of the
clutch facing the flywheel – it should have stamped on it “flywheel side, or transmission side”. If not, I
believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car.
4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate
over the clutch. Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel – there are some dowels on the
flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. Everything will be pretty tightly bound together but don’t
worry – it needs to be tight so the clutch plate will stay aligned. Now you can take the clutch
alignment tool out.

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5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it
with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller
and a hammer to get it back together.
5 ½. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already.
6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this
writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the
car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will
catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay – make
sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work.

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8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch
pedal will get in the way. Remove the bolts holding that white A/T box thing and move it to the side.
There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up
under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin
holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out
and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the
sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only
have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth
pedal.
9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under
the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a
circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in,
attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together.
10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now
you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the
clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the
hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This
will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about.
11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where
the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car
to get to.
12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it.
13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather
boot.
14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which
was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time)
15. Start your car and see what happens.

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16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the
airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit.
17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles)
Results:
The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will
get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt’s car will grind if you do not
shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not
figured out how to get cruise control working – so that shouldn’t be too hard. My car is not 100%
swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can’t get my radio to work.
The car is throwing the following codes:

0804a/t diagnosis communication, I believe I just need to plug my small ecu thing back up on the
drivers side
- 1108 shift solenoid
- 1201 shift solenoid
- 1203 overrun switch
- 1204 tc clutch solenoid, i believe this is the switch on the top of my fender in the engine
bay, I should be able to put a resistor and fix that code
- 1205 line pressure
- 1208 fluid temperature
ECU Swapping:
In order to get rid of the CEL (which would have prevented the car from passing OBDII testing when
the car is inspected), a Manual ECU was used. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL
and no more rough starts – the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the
factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness.
If your car is a ’95 the new ECU must be from a ’95 (maybe 96?)
If your car is a ’96 the new ECU must be from a ’96 (maybe 95?)
If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in
a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt’s car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here:
Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is
mentioned in the link)
H. Allow radiator to fill between, bursts

I. Continue until water flows freely
RUBRIC FOR PERFORMANCE

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Dimension Highly Competent Competent Fairly Competent Not Yet
2 Competent
4 3 1
1. Proficiency of Perform the task Perform the task Perform the task with The task is not
assembling and with exceptional with competence competence but performed.
disassembling performance and with below standard
performance.
of manual standard
transmission performance.
2. Level of Student was able Student was Student was able to Student was
needed to complete the able to complete complete the task unable to
assistance task without the task with with moderate complete the
assistance little assistance assistance from task without
instructor and peer major
assistance
3. Safety/ Work Student followed Student followed Student attempted to Students failed
habits all safety rules most safety follow safety rules to follow
and have PPE all rules, may have but failed to meet significant
the time of forgotten one several PPE. safety rules and
training. PPE. PPE.
4. Speed/ Time Work finished Work finished No concept of
ahead of time close to deadline time
5. Clean up and Cleaned his Students made Student somewhat Student did not
return tools assigned area effort to clean cleaned assigned clean assigned
and returned assigned area area and did not area or return
tools to their and returned return tools to proper tools to proper
proper place. tools top proper place. place.
place.
POINTS EARNED NUMERICAL DESCRIPTIVE
Highly Competent
16 - 20 91-100
Competent
11 - 15 86-90
Fairly Competent
6 - 10 81-85
Not Yet Competent

1-5 76-80
Grade: ______________________________

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12 Info and Work Sheet Perform Under Chassis Preventive Maintenance

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12 Info and Work Sheet Perform Under Chassis Preventive Maintenance

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BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

I. TITLE: UNDER CHASSIS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

Information Sheet 12.1-1

How to Change Brake Lines

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Check to see if the master cylinder is damp and replace if necessary.

Method 2 of 3: Changing the Brake Lines

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Method 3 of 3: Testing the Brakes

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

 Follow proper safety procedures when jacking up a vehicle.

HOW TO CHECK CLUTCH FLUID

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

INFORMATION SHEET – 12.2-1

Replace Manual Transmission Gear Oil

Step 2: Locate and Remove the "filler Bolt"

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Step 3: Remove the Drain Bolt

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Step 4: Clean the Magnet and Remove the Filler Bolt.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Step 5: Replace the Drain Bolt.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Clean up and take the car for a test drive.

Information Sheet – 12.3-1

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Look for the reservoir cylinder.

Check the level of the power-steering fluid.

Examine how much of the dipstick is covered by power-steering fluid.

Examine the color of the power-steering fluid.

Good power-steering fluid should be clear, amber or pinkish in color.

Add power-steering fluid as needed to the correct fill level.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Elevate the car, so you can crawl under it.

The pan will be attached to the bottom of the transmission.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Remove the transmission fluid pan.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Lower the car off the jack stands.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

How to Check Air Pressure in Tires

Part 1 of 2: Checking Air Pressure in Tires

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Part 2 of 2: Performance Considerations

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

INFORMATION SHEET 12.5-1

Some basics are as follows.

Cleanliness of stressed skin chassis

Chassis and Suspension bolt and nut torque

Chassis fluids and Lubrication of components

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Chassis Bolt Torques

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Name: ________________ Date:

Name: ________________ Date: