9 Info and Work Sheet Service Steering System2

BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.
Lucban-Tayabas Road
Brgy. ManasaLucban,Quezon
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: STEERING SYSTEM
II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to
1.Define and identify the various types of steering systems.

2.Match the names of the components in the steering system.
3.Identify the correct method of maintaining the steering system
Information Sheet 9.1-1

Analyze Front End Geometry
The term "steering geometry" (also known as "front-end geometry") Refers to the
angular Relationship between suspension and steering parts, front wheels, and the road
surface. Because alignment deals with angles and affects steering, the method of
describing alignmentmeasurements is called steering geometry.
There are five steering geometry angles :
 Camber
 Caster
 Toe in & Toe-out on turns
 King pin inclination
Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

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Date Revised: Dec. 20, 2018 Page 1 of 35
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Mr. Ryan M. Fabricante
Revision # 01
Camber
Camber angle is the angle between the vertical line and centre line of the tyre when
viewed from the front of the vehicle. Camber angle is positive when this is outward. This
happens when wheels are further apart at top than at bottom. On the contrary, camber
angle is negative when angle is inward. This happens when wheels are further apart at
bottom than at top. The camber, should not be more than 2 degree, because this causes
uneven or more tyre wear on one side than on other side.
Toe –in
In automotive engineering, toe also known as tracking.This can be contrasted with steer,
which is the anti symmetric angle, i.e. both wheels point to the left or right, in parallel
(roughly).
Positive toe, or toe in, is the front of the wheel pointing in towards the centerline of the
vehicle.
Negative toe, or toe out, is the front of the wheel pointing away from the centerline of the
vehicle.
Caster
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Caster angle is the tilt of king pin centre line towards front of back from the vertical
line. It is the angle between the vertical line and king pin centre line in the wheel plane when
looked from side.
King Pin Inclination
It is the angle between king pin centre line and vertical line when seen from the front
of the vehicle.It is also called steering axle inclination. King pin inclination and caster are
used to improve directional stability in cars. This is also used to reduce steering effort when
steering a stationary it reduces tyre wear. This inclination varies from 4 to 8 degree in
modern cars.

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Front End Geometry Failure
The alignment of your vehicle's wheels can affect the way it handles, as well as increase the
wear and tear on your tyres, and cause it to pull in one direction or the other.
Aligning your wheels is a relatively simple process, which requires the vehicle to be placed
on a wheel alignment machine.
The first time that you may suspect a wheel alignment problem is when you are driving
down the road and your car feels like it drifts or pulls to one side.
You may notice that the steering wheel is not centered while driving straight down the road.
Your car may drive fine, but when you look at your tyres you may notice that they are
wearing more on one side than the other.
Symptoms that your vehicle requires a wheel alignment
Taking your vehicle for a test drive with a mechanic will help narrow down if you need a
wheel alignment, or if a steering or suspension component is the cause.
The vehicle pulls to one side

A common misconception with vehicle wheel alignments is that a vehicle that pulls slightly
away from traffic over a few seconds requires a wheel alignment.
This is not always the case. Manufacturers set up the alignment with a slight pull away from
traffic, so that if something happens to the driver, the vehicle will not move into oncoming
traffic and cause a catastrophic accident.
However, if the vehicle pulls to one side excessively - it may need to have the wheel
alignment checked.

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If the vehicle is pulling to one side or the other violently, this could be an indication of a
failed or excessively worn steering or suspension component, and should be checked by a
qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

The steering wheel is not straight/centered
A steering wheel that is crooked or not centred is an indication of incorrect wheel alignment
- usually a toe setting that is out. This can also be caused by worn steering components.

The vehicle shakes or vibrates
This issue is not usually caused by wheel alignment and is more likely caused by a failed
steering or suspension component, a wheel balance issue, or slightly warped brake rotors.

Vehicle noises
If you hear squeaking, creaking, knocking, or rubbing, that typically indicates a steering or
suspension problem.
The vehicle may require suspension or steering repairs and a wheel alignment would be
required after these repairs.
Checking tyre wear
Checking the wear on your tyres can give you an indication of your car’s wheel alignment.
The most common wear is on the inside or outside of the tyres. This indicates that the
vehicle has excessive camber - either positive or negative, depending on if the outside or
inside of the tyre is worn, respectively.
Another common sign that your wheel alignment is out, is feathering of the tyres. Excessive
toe-in or out causes the tyres to wear unevenly over the surface of the tread.
This makes the edge of the tyre look and feel like a 50c piece. It will also increase road
noise over the life of the tyres.
If you have noticed increased road noise at higher speeds - such as a grumbling noise, this
could be the cause.
The last sign is known as cupping, where the tyre is bouncing on the road as you are
driving, which causes uneven wear on certain parts of the tyre.
This is the result of worn out shock absorbers and springs, and requires these components
to be replaced before a wheel alignment can be carried out.

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Self-Check
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9.1-1
1. It is the angle between the vertical line and centre line of the tyre when viewed from the
front of the vehicle.
A. Camber C. Toe-In
B. Caster D. King Pin Inclination
2. In automotive engineering, it is also known as tracking.This can be contrasted with steer,

which is the anti symmetric angle
A. Camber C. Toe-In
3. It is the tilt of king pin centre line towards front of back from the vertical line. It is the angle
between the vertical line and king pin centre line in the wheel plane when looked from side.
A. Camber C. Toe-In
4. It is the angle between king pin centre line and vertical line when seen from the front of
the vehicle.It is also called steering axle inclination
A. Camber C. Toe-In
5. Common cause of center tire wire.
A. Excessive Camber C. Excessive Toe-in

B. Tire Over Inflation D. Tire Under Inflation

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Answer Key
9.1-1
1. A - Camber
2. B. - Caster
3. C – Toe-in
4. D – King Pin Inclination
5 B – Tire Over Inflation

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Servicing Steering System
STEERING SYSTEM
The steering system allows the operator to guide the vehicle along the road and turn left or right
as desired. The system includes the steering wheel, which the operator controls, the steering
mechanism, which changes the rotary motion of the steering wheel into straight-line motion, and the
steering linkage. Most systems were manual until a few years ago. Then power steering became
popular. It is now installed in most vehicles manufactured today. The steering system must perform
several important functions, which are as follows:
 Provide precise control of front-wheel direction.

 Maintain the correct amount of effort needed to turn the front wheels.
 Transmit road feel (slight steering wheel pull caused by road surface) to the operator's
hands.
 Absorb most of the shock going to the steering wheel, as the tires hit bumps and holes in the
road.
 Allow for suspension action.
How Car Steering Works

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Turning the Car
You might be surprised to learn that when you turn your car, your front wheels are not
pointing in the same direction.
For a car to turn smoothly, each wheel must follow a different circle. Since the inside wheel is
following a circle with a smaller radius, it is actually making a tighter turn than the outside wheel. If
you draw a line perpendicular to each wheel, the lines will intersect at the center point of the turn.
The geometry of the steering linkage makes the inside wheel turn more than the outside wheel.
There are a couple different types of steering gears. The most common are rack-and-pinion
and recirculating ball.
Rack-and-pinion steering - is quickly becoming the most common type of steering on cars, small
trucks and SUVs. It is actually a pretty simple mechanism. A rack-and-pinion gearset is enclosed in
a metal tube, with each end of the rack protruding from the tube. A rod, called a tie rod, connects to
each end of the rack.
The pinion gear is attached to the steering shaft. When you turn the steering wheel, the gear
spins, moving the rack. The tie rod at each end of the rack connects to the steering arm on the
spindle (see diagram above).
The rack-and-pinion gearset does two things:
 It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion needed to turn
the wheels.
 It provides a gear reduction, making it easier to turn the wheels.
Steering ratio - is the ratio of how far you turn the steering wheel to how far the wheels turn. For
instance, if one complete revolution (360 degrees) of the steering wheel results in the wheels of the
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car turning 20 degrees, then the steering ratio is 360 divided by 20, or 18:1. A higher ratio means
that you have to turn the steering wheel more to get the wheels to turn a given distance.
Some cars have variable-ratio steering, which uses a rack-and-pinion gearset that has a different
tooth pitch (number of teeth per inch) in the center than it has on the outside. This makes the car
respond quickly when starting a turn (the rack is near the center), and also reduces effort near the
wheel's turning limits.
Power Rack-and-pinion
When the rack-and-pinion is in a power-steering system, the rack has a slightly different design.
Part of the rack contains a cylinder with a piston in the middle. The piston is connected to the rack.
There are two fluid ports, one on either side of the piston. Supplying higher-pressure fluid to one
side of the piston forces the piston to move, which in turn moves the rack, providing the power
assist.
Recirculating-ball steering - is used on many trucks and SUVs today. The linkage that turns the
wheels is slightly different than on a rack-and-pinion system.

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The recirculating-ball steering gear contains a worm gear. You can image the gear in two parts. The
first part is a block of metal with a threaded hole in it. This block has gear teeth cut into the outside
of it, which engage a gear that moves the pitman arm (see diagram above). The steering wheel
connects to a threaded rod, similar to a bolt, that sticks into the hole in the block. When the steering
wheel turns, it turns the bolt. Instead of twisting further into the block the way a regular bolt would,
this bolt is held fixed so that when it spins, it moves the block, which moves the gear that turns the
wheels.
Instead of the bolt directly engaging the threads in the block, all of the threads are filled with ball
bearings that recirculate through the gear as it turns. The balls actually serve two purposes: First,
they reduce friction and wear in the gear; second, they reduce slop in the gear. Slop would be felt
when you change the direction of the steering wheel -- without the balls in the steering gear, the
teeth would come out of contact with each other for a moment, making the steering wheel feel loose.
Power steering in a recirculating-ball system works similarly to a rack-and-pinion system. Assist is

provided by supplying higher-pressure fluid to one side of the block.
The rack-and-pinion system

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At the base of the steering column there is a small pinion (gear wheel) inside a housing. Its teeth
mesh with a straight row of teeth on a rack - a long transverse bar.
Turning the pinion makes the rack move from side to side. The ends of the rack are coupled to the
road wheels by track rods.
This system is simple, with few moving parts to become worn or displaced, so its action is precise.
A universal joint in the steering column allows it to connect with the rack without angling the steering
wheel awkwardly sideways.
The steering system converts the rotation of the steering wheel into a swivelling movement of the
road wheels in such a way that the steering-wheel rim turns a long way to move the road wheels a
short way.
The steering effort passes to the wheels through a system of pivoted joints. These are designed to
allow the wheels to move up and down with the suspension without changing the steering angle.
They also ensure that when cornering, the inner front wheel - which has to travel round a tighter
curve than the outer one - becomes more sharply angled.
The joints must be adjusted very precisely, and even a little looseness in them makes the steering
dangerously sloppy and inaccurate.
There are two steering systems in common use - the rack and pinion and the steering box.
The steering-box system

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At the base of the steering column there is a worm gear inside a box. A worm is a threaded
cylinder like a short bolt. Imagine turning a bolt which holding a nut on it; the nut would move along
the bolt. In the same way, turning the worm moves anything fitted into its thread.
Depending on the design, the moving part may be a sector (like a slice of a gear wheel), a
peg or a roller connected to a fork, or a large nut.
The nut system has hardened balls running inside the thread between the worm and the nut.
As the nut moves, the balls roll out into a tube that takes them back to the start; it is called a
recirculating-ball system.
The worm moves a drop arm linked by a track rod to a steering arm that moves the nearest
front wheel.
A central track rod reaches to the other side of the car, where it is linked to the other front
wheel by another track rod and steering arm. A pivoted idler arm holds the far end of the central
track rod level. Arm layouts vary.
The steering-box system has many moving parts, so is less precise than the rack system,
there being more room for wear and displacement.
Lubricating a rack and pinion
The rack is filled with oil or grease, but does not usually need regular maintenance. It needs
re-lubrication if you remove or replace a rack gaiter, or if there has been a leak past a loose or
damaged gaiter clip. If you do need to re-lubricate, consult the car handbook to see whether oil or
grease is used, which kind, and how much.
If it is oil, drain the rack and use a syringe to refill it. Check how much the syringe holds, to ensure
the right oil level.

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Raise the car on an axle stand on one side only, so that the rack is tilted. Clean carefully around the
gaiter and set a drip tray under the lower end of the rack.
Release the clip at the inner end of the lower gaiter. Pull the gaiter free of the rack housing and let
all the oil drain out.
Smear a little grease or gear oil inside the gaiter to make it easier to push on. Refit the gaiter and
tighten the clip. Replace a wire clip with a screw clip. Unclip and free the inner end of the other,
upper gaiter.
Use a syringe to inject the correct amount of gear oil of the right grade. If you do not have a syringe,
use an old cycle pump or an oil can. Refit the gaiter and clip.
A ball joint with a grease nipple fitted underneath.
If it is inconvenient to tilt the car, you can empty the rack on the level by undoing one gaiter
at the inner end and slowly moving the steering wheel from lock to lock several times - not quickly,
for that might burst the other gaiter.
Greasing track-rod ball joints
Track-rod ball joints are usually sealed for life. If they do have grease nipples, the nipples are
usually on the flat top of the ball-joint housing.
Replaceable dust seal.
Grease them when carrying out major services, or at the intervals recommended in the car
handbook, which will also tell you the correct grade of grease to use.

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Wipe each nipple clean and inject it with a grease gun until fresh grease exudes from the
joint. Wipe the nipple clean.
Steering-box system - the joints on the track rod and track-rod ends are all ball joints.
Rack-and-pinion steering system - there are joints at the rack ends and track-rod ends.
Whenever you raise the car and get under it, do not rely on a jack. Support the car on proper axle
stands at the jacking points or, when the car has to have its weight on its wheels, with the front
wheels on ramps. Apply the handbrake firmly, chock the rear wheels on both sides and put rear
wheel-drive cars in gear (`park' for automatics).
When to Bleed
• After any steering component replacement.
• If any part of the power steering system is opened for any reason.
Why Bleed
• To prevent pump damage.
• To ensure proper system operation.
• To stop steering system noise.
Before Bleeding
Carefully inspect the steering system.
• Hoses must not touch any other part of vehicle. Steering system noise could be caused by the
hose touching the frame, body, or engine.
• All hose connections must be tight. Loose connections might not leak but could allow air into the
system. Do not over tighten O-ring hoses as the O-ring might be crushed. Check flare seat type
connections for exact fit.
CAUTION:
Failure to read and follow these instructions will void any warranty and possibly cause severe
damage to your power steering and/or hydro boost brake components.
How to Bleed

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1. Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the power
steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can cause metal to
metal contact and damage
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.
3. Turn steering wheel fully to the left.
4. Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.
5. With an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped, no fluid
has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the reservoir or pump. Until
this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system.
- On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess of 40
times.
- Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir. Trapped
air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for leak check.
6. Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
- If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
- Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
7. Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)
- Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in the
system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
- If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to accumulate
and purge through the reservoir.
8. Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.
9. If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Hydro Boost Systems Only
- Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake pedal.
- Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.
- Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off.
- Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal.
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- Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir.
- If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled.
IMPORTANT
Use only clear, name brand, premium, racing or synthetic power steering fluid, such as Royal Purple
or Red Line. Do not use transmission fluid, as transmission fluid does not contain the same friction
inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat.
Special Conditions
If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system.
• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If this occurs,
there is trapped air in the system.
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a bad flare
seat in either the pressure or return hose.
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).
Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System
Follow the steps below to eliminate air in the power steering system.
1. Turn ignition off. Wait thirty minutes. Recheck hose connections. Repeat start up procedures. If
problem still exists, replace or check for possible causes including:
- Return hose clamps
- Return hose O-ring or flare seat
- Pressure hose O-ring or flare seat
- All other connections
2. Fill system and repeat bleeding procedure for each possible cause. Eliminating Noise in the
Power Steering System. If you hear a whining or groaning noise originating from the pump after all
air is out of the system (if air is not out, see Special Conditions), then do the following:
Step 1: Check belts for slippage.
Step 2: Mark pulley and make sure it is not slipping on the shaft.
Step 3: With the engine running, recheck hoses for possible contact with frame, body, or engine. If
no contact is found, cool fluid and repressurize system.
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Step 4: After cooling fluid, start engine to come up to operating temperature and recheck.
HOW TO FLUSH THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM...
WHEN CHANGING THE PUMP or DOING MAINTENANCE FLUSHING
1. Connect the pressure line to the pressure fitting on the pump
2. Cap or plug return fitting on the pump; place return line from the gear or rack into a
waste container.
3. With a helper
a. Fill power steering reservoir with Power Steering Fluid
b. Start the Engine
c. Have helper continuously add fluid to the reservoir while you are turning the
steering slowly from stop to stop.
DO NOT ALLOW PUMP TO OPERATE WITHOUT FLUID!
d. Keep turning steering wheel from stop to stop while adding fluid, until fluid in
coming out of the return hose is clear and clean.
4. Stop engine and remove cap/plug on return fitting and reconnect return line to return
fitting on the pump.
5. Fill with P/S fluid, check for leaks & bleed the system.
WHEN CHANGING THE RACK & PINION OR GEAR BOX
1. Place the gear or rack end of the pump hose into a waste container.
2. Cap or plug return fitting on the pump
3. With a helper
a. Fill power steering reservoir with Power Steering Fluid
b. Start the Engine
c. Have helper continuously add fluid to the reservoir.
DO NOT LET PUMP RUN DRY!

d. Do this until fluid coming out is as clean as fluid going in .
4. Stop engine. Connect pressure and return lines to Rack / Gear. Remove cap/plug on return
fitting and reconnect return line to return fitting on the pump. Fill with P/S fluid, check for leaks &
bleed the system.
Troubleshooting Power Steering Problems

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Because the Steering Gear is a very complex and and equally misunderstood component of the
steering system, it commonly gets blamed for problems in drive ability when the fault may be
elsewhere. To assist you in correct diagnosis of your steering system, here are some good steps to
follow.
1. Drive the Vehicle
If possible, drive the vehicle and verify the type and extent of the steering problem. If you are unable
to duplicate the steering complaint, ride with the driver and observe the nature of the problem.
Notice the point at which the problem occurs and it’s nature. Provide preventive maintenance
services on the steering components, grease and re-torque and drive it again.
2. Listen to the Driver
In every case, the driver will be able to tell you more about the steering difficulty than you can know.
Is the system warm or cold? Is the vehicle always empty or loaded when the problem occurs? Does
it only occur with one driver? Does the problem disappear only at low RPM conditions? Does the
problem only appear after slowing down from highway speeds and then go away? Does the problem
only appear turning in one direction? Does the problem only appear in one spot in the turn of the
steering wheel?
3. Give the Vehicle a Visual Inspection
Look for signs of vehicle abuse. Inspect the tires for previous impacts and side scuffs. It is easy to
see an operator that takes pride in a piece of equipment and keeps it in good condition as well as
equally easy to see a poorly maintained and abused piece of equipment.
4. Check the fluid first
Many factors contribute to looseness in the steering system. This looseness may be caused by
something as simple as the fluid levels not being maintained at the recommended levels. Air
entrapment may cause delayed action and/or over-reaction in the steering system. Oil foaming, fluid
color and a burnt smell are all signs of problems related to the pump. As a pump degrades, chrome
plating will flow through the system; this will usually be observed as a shine quality or reflective
quality in the oil. Although water may be hard to spot, usually by draining a quart or better, water can
be seen if present. Water, when heated, will react like air entrapment and degrade the overall
system performance. Many vehicles can be found with old engine oil in their power steering
systems. The suspended fuels, acids, carbon and sludge found in used engine oil quickly cause
power steering hoses to break down.
5. Look at the Tires
Under-inflation of a vehicle’s tires can cause high steering effort, road wander and poor recovery.
Improperly mounted or unbalanced tires can cause shimmy and excessive fluid heat. The presence
of tire cupping and abnormal wear are all signs of alignment problems and troubleshooting should
begin after the front end alignment has been checked.
6. Examine the Front End Components
Excess wear can cause road wander, high steering effort as well as shimmy and over-steering. Tie
rod ends, drag links, idler arms, pitman arms, kingpins, ball joints, steering arms, ubolts, and

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steering columns, each with a little wear, all add up to a lot of potential wear and road wander.
Correct preventative maintenance with inspection and lubrication will extend the life of steering
components.
7. Watch the front end Articulate
Sometimes the best way to look for looseness in a steering system is to securely block the rear end
from moving and to start the engine and cycle the steering from right to left. Have the driver provide
feedback as he turns and look for over motion, looseness and binding. Try this first loaded, then
unloaded, as well as with the front end completely off the ground. The same smooth movement
should be present under all loads. Watch the steering column, looking for smoothness and a lack of
jerky movements. Remember, the vehicle linkage and engine can pose a great amount of danger to
life and limb, so exercise care.
8. Truck? Inspect the Frame and Cab
Car? Inspect the Steering gear to frame connection
As the front end linkage turns, forces are applied to the frame laterally. The frame relies on the cross
members to stabilize it through the turning movements with little to no frame flex allowed. A little
known fact is that many Class 7 and 8 vehicle manufacturers rely on the front bumper as the
vehicle's front cross member. After market bumpers as well as broken, removed and loose bumpers
can contribute to road wander as well as shimmy. As the steering gear turns under load, see that the
steering box is tightly bolted to the frame and no movements between the two are seen. Since, on
many steering gear models, the gear requires a slip joint on the steering column for the valve to
shift, loss of motion in the steering column can force the valve to react erratically. In more severe
circumstances, cab mounts can crack and break, allowing the cab to sit down on the steering gear.
This by itself can cause any number of steering difficulties.
9. Inspect the Hydraulic System
Look at the steering gear, hoses, valves, cylinders and the pump. The hoses should be
reasonably flexible, the painted components will discolor and hoses become stiff, due to heat.
Under operation, the pump, when power steering is applied, will draw down the engine RPM if
properly operating. Control valves on linkage systems need to be free to operate smoothly
without sudden motion as well as be reasonably clean. Dirt acts like an abrasive when allowed to
enter a steering system and degrades smooth movement. For steering systems to operate
correctly, they need proper pressure, measured in pounds per inch, and proper delivery,
measured in gallons per hour. A pump may be able to pump to twelve hundred pounds pressure,
but not be able deliver the flow to operate a steering gear. Conversely, a pump may be able to
pump eight gallons per hour, but not exceed one hundred pounds. Steering pressure and flow
requirements are determined by the size of the vehicle and intended weight capacity. Consult the
vehicle manufacturer or steering gear manufacturer for minimum acceptable standards.
10. Back to the Front End Components
Perform ALL wear tests as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. This should include the King
Pins, Tie Rod Ends, Axle Spindles as well as all other front end components. Articulate the front end
by hand with the pitman arm removed from the steering gear. The front end should articulate freely
without binds and noticeable noises. Set the front wheel bearings with a torque wrench as
recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Check for excessive movement in the springs, hangers
and other attaching parts.

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11. Inspect the Rear of the Vehicle
A poorly attached body will allow the frame to flex and wear frame cross members. A loose rear
suspension will cause the front end to appear loose (rear steer).
12. Steering Gear
The steering gear should now be considered as a potential problem. Lash adjustments can be
checked against factory standards and if the gears exceeds those standards, repair or replacement
is necessary. In order to insure a safe steering system, follow these guidelines.
Testing the Steering System
1. Heat
Perhaps the easiest test and possibly the most important is to test the temperature of the steering
gear. Warning: High Temperatures may exist in the steering system so do not expose
unprotected skin to the steering components or hydraulic oil.
The typical Steering gear is rated to run at 100 degrees above the outside air temperature. This
means that the outside case temperature may be allowed as high as 200 degrees on a hot day.
Some steering systems rely on the steering gear housing to dissipate the residual heat in the
system. Interruptions of air flow may compromise steering gear longevity. As the steering gear is
exposed to excess heat, the seals in the gearbox begin to harden and over time, leakage or bypass
flow may become a problem.
2. Noise
Although steering systems naturally emit noise, by carefully listening to the steering system and
making comparisons to other vehicles, problems can be diagnosed here. A growling or gravelly
noise are signs of air entrapment or pump failure. Popping noises in the steering gear are far from
natural and require proper attention. Sharp noises or clunking sounds need immediate care
.
3. Oil
Oil is the lifeblood of the steering system and requires careful consideration. The oil when originally
installed was usually a caramel or reddish color. Any change from those colors may indicate steering
system problems. As long as the system has received new oil throughout it’s life, the oil should hold
it’s color with little change.
o Oil Black
 Hydraulic System Fluid Restriction or Blockage
 Insufficient Pump Capability
 Excessive Pump Wear
 Lack of/insufficient Cooling
 Incorrect Hose Sizes
 Containment Buildup
 Low Fluid Level
 Excessive or Continuous Overloading
o Oil Foaming
Air Entrapment

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 Excessive Pump Wear
 Low Fluid Level
 Pump Seal Wear
 Reservoir suction fittings leaking
 Reservoir can leaks.
 Reservoir Filter clogged
o Oil Milky
Oil contamination (water)
 Cooler Connections
 Heat Exchanger Leaks
 Heat Exchanger Leaks
 Radiator Leaks
 Missing Shrouding
 Failed Reservoir Cover/Cap
4. Oil Supply
The oil supply is perhaps the most overlooked and most important component of the steering
system. It is the single item from which all parts rely, and without proper attention, it can easily be
your biggest source of problems. The oil supply component of the steering system includes the
reservoir, return line, oil cooler (if installed) and filter. Careful periodic maintenance of the steering
system should include oil changing along manufacturers guidelines, filter replacement (usually
installed in the base of the reservoir), suction side fittings and reservoir to pump connection
consideration. All suction side fittings can contribute to air entrapment and oil foaming.
5. Gear Articulation
Warning: The Steering System Generates great amounts of power and may and can break
limbs or crush your body. Never stand in a position where the steering linkage, tires, wheels
or engine components may grab or trap your body.
6. Engine Off Inspection

As a co-worker slowly turns the steering wheel in a continuous stop to stop motion, observe the
steering column for steady and non-jerky turning. The steering column should move freely and
without noise with slip joints if installed exhibiting smooth movement.
Note on end play: Some steering gears such as the Ross HF54’s, HF64’s, HPS70’s, HS70’s are
built with as much as 1/2” of input shaft movement in and out of the steering box. On these models
with the engine off, shaft movement in and out of the steering box is completely normal and does not
warrant repair. This movement corresponds to internal valve action and is completely normal.
However, under engine on conditions, this movement, although present, will be greatly reduced but
system valve action can only be tested with a suitable pressure and flow gauge.
As the steering box begins to build up pressure, observe for the horizontal movement of the shafts in
their bearings. Although the steering box may be designed with a tolerance in the shaft to bearing fit,
excessive wear can allow seals to leak and gear teeth to bind inside the steering box. If both shaft

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connections appear tight and functional, during the rapid left to right turning motion, notice any lash
or looseness in the mesh of the two gears inside of the steering box. The sum of all of the looseness
in a steering system can add up to a substantial amount of free play.
7. Frame
For proper performance, the steering box relies on the vehicle frame to maintain its' location for both
uniform range of motion as well as balanced steering feel. A well maintained steering system must
exhibit no movement between the steering box, its' sub-frame mountings, and the vehicle frame. The
frame by nature was designed for optimum performance in distributing the weight of the vehicle to
the suspension elements. Its' tall cross section allows superior abilities to manage the vertical loads
that exist in a vehicle. The steering system loads the frame horizontally though, with the upper and
lower frame flange in addition to the cross members designed to counteract these forces. As the
steering system articulates, observe any frame flex as well as cross member to frame movement.
8. Engine on Testing
For correct testing of engine on steering system performance, the only effective tool is a
pressure/flow metering test set. This fixture, available form Benz Spring Co. of Washington, will
more than pay for itself in the avoidance of unwarranted parts purchases and wasted mechanics
hours. This test set includes two hoses, a pressure gauge, a metering valve, a flow gauge and is
irreplaceable in correct steering diagnosis. The test set is plumbed into the steering system between
the pump and the steering box and performs the following evaluations.
o Pump Bypass Pressure Test
o Pump Bypass Pressure Setting
o Pump Flow Measurement
o Internal Gearbox Leakage Test.
9. The Pump
Although the steering box appears to be the unit which is doing the job of Power Steering, an
understanding of the pump is necessary for proper diagnosis. The pump is the item which develops
the power that the steering box turns into rotational energy, that in turn, turns the vehicle. Without
proper Pressure and Flow, the steering system will fail to perform properly. The steering box is at the
mercy of the pump to provide constant pressure and flow for the steering box to maintain top
performance, with many a complaint about road wander has been cured by a pump replacement.
Each pump manufacturer designs each pump for a specified flow at a given pressure. For proper
steering diagnosis, these specifications need to be taken into consideration.
10. Testing the pump

Prior to testing the pump, an evaluation of the hoses is necessary. The tests listed here can and will
subject the existing hoses to pressures higher than normal and can result in catastrophic leaks or
complete failure. Any marginal hose must be replaced prior to any pressure testing.
The first step in testing the pump is to plumb the power steering test set in the high pressure
hydraulic line, between the pump and the gear.
Warning: Power steering fluid is flammable. Any leak which may allow oil to drip or spray on
a hot engine component can and will catch fire.

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The First Test is to verify that the pump is providing flow to the steering box. With the test set valve
open, observe the flow meter to see the low pressure gallons per minute reading. This comparison
of this flow reading to the free flow specifications of the pump will give you an initial indication of the
abilities of the pump. Failure here warrants pump replacement.
The Second Test involves the static pressure reading on the pressure gauge. With steering system
at rest, any pressure measured here will correspond to restriction in the steering hydraulic system.
Although some pressure here is normal, comparison to factory standards will establish what your
static flow should be and how the system you are testing is performing. Failure here warrants
evaluation of hose performance, steering box restriction due to contaminants as well as reservoir
problems.
The Third Test involves momentarily shutting down the metering valve to measure the relief valve
setting. Comparison of this reading to factory specs will allow you to judge the performance of your
pressure delivery system.
Warning: This test generates high heat and high pressures in the pump. This valve
should be closed momentarily in order to not damage the pump due to heat, or not
damage a hose which may cause a fire hazard or allow a leaking stream of hydraulic
fluid to cut flesh.
11. The Gearbox

Upon inspection of the gearbox, any leaks need to be addressed prior to troubleshooting the system.
Any leak in a hose at or between the fittings that cannot be halted by tightening a hose fitting
requires hose replacement. It is never acceptable to allow a steering system to continue leaking.
Power steering leaks reduce the fatigue life of leaf springs, compromise brake performance, cause
the buildup of dirt and contaminants on the chassis and create ecological hazards that will not be
tolerated.
Steering gear leaks are signs of failed seals, worn shafts and parts damage. Any visible leaks
warrant complete steering gear rebuilding. Seal replacement without consideration of shaft and
component wear will prove dangerous.
Test Four. Have your same co-worker begin turning the steering wheel left to right, one turn of the
steering wheel from center in each direction.
Warning: The Steering System Generates great amounts of power and may and can break
limbs or crush your body. Never stand in a position where the steering linkage, tires, wheels
or engine components may grab or trap your body.
Observe the pressure and flow readings as the front end articulates. The pressure and flow
requirements should be fairly uniform in either direction. The system when operating correctly should
have a balanced feel in either direction with a balanced set of readings.
1. Any condition where pressure is developed in one direction only points to potential
valve problems within the steering gear.
2. Any condition where pressure and flow drops below minimum manufacturer's
specifications point to potential pump or fluid delivery problems.

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3. Any condition where pressure and flow readings change in an erratic manner indicate
a myriad of potential problems. Problems here can result from:
 Front end bind conditions (king pins, steering linkage, etc.).
 Steering gear valve problems.
 Air entrapment.
 Oil Contamination
The correct interpretation of these readings are necessary for proper diagnosis. Careful analysis of
the comparison of these readings to factory specs will lead to a good diagnosis of the power steering
components.
Test Five: Before we can continue testing, we need to get a feeling for what type of pop-off valve or
relief valve we have internally in the steering box. If small screw adjustments appear on each
housing end, then it appears that a manually adjustable pop-off valve is present. The pop-off valves
are designed to relieve gearbox hydraulic pressure before the steering gear allows the spindles to
turn into the axle stops. These adjustments are critical to proper steering performance and their
setting differs with different vehicle, axle and steering box manufacturers so correct adjustment can
only be attained after study of the manufacturer's service publications. We can, though, test whether
they are or are not functioning. By bringing the gearbox and hence the spindles to their stops, a
pressure drop can be observed as the valves pop-off (hence their name). If the spindles fail to hit
their stops before the gear bottoms out, then the axle stops are not adjusted incorrectly. The
steering box cannot be used as the axle steering stops, this will cause non-repairable gearbox
damage and potential catastrophic failure under operation. Steering boxes without pop-off valves
may either have internal non- adjustable pop-offs or pressure relief valves. Those with internal pop-
off valves may operate correctly during the axle stop pop-off test. However, those gears equipped
with pressure relief valves will give erroneous readings. Test Five is useless with those gears.
Test Six: Steering Gear Bypass Flow. In conditions where pump pressure and volume (flow) are
sufficient, AND all components test within manufacturer's specifications AND all other tests indicate
a completely normal steering system, AND high steering effort persists, then and only then should
Test Six be attempted. Test six involves bringing the steering gear up to operating pressure by
adding a block between the axle stops and the spindles. This test should only be attempted by
experienced professionals and can be dangerous. By blocking the axle stops, the steering system
can be brought to maximum pressure and at that time, the flow gauge will be read. This flow reading
corresponds to the internal leakage within the steering box and should be done only momentarily.
This test is also ineffective on gearboxes with internal pressure relief valves.
The pressures and forces generated here are substantial and should only be considered after taking
appropriate safety precautions. Stay away from the steering linkage, axle and wheels if you attempt
this test.
A Word On Adjustments
Due to the critical nature of steering gear systems, no adjustments should be attempted
without first consultation of the correct service manual for that steering system or service
manual for the vehicle or chassis involved. If the correct manual is not available, do not
proceed without assistance or without the proper settings for adjustment or repair.

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Checking steering joints for wear in Steering
Suspension and Steering
The primary function of your cars suspension and steering systems is to allow the wheelsto move
independently of the car, while keeping is “suspended” and s table. Any play or uncontrolled motion
in these systems results in a deterioration of handling andaccelerated tire wear. Vehicle alignment is
closely tied to the condition of the suspension and steering system.
Having your steering system regularly serviced can help keep it safely maintaining proper handling.
Shocks and strut service help improve the quality and strut service help improve the quality of your
ride and shorten stopping distance.The suspension system is a complicated network of parts meant
make the ride smooth and stable, but it gets pretty abused with wear and tear and can often have
problems, Symptoms of a problem include the car pulling to one side, too much bouncing over
bumps in the car pulling to one side, too much the road, or trouble steering.
Steering System

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The main components of a Conventional system are:
Steering Gear Box

Center Link
Pitman Arm
Idler Arm
Tie Rods
The main components of a Rack and Pinion steering system are:
Rack and Pinion Assembly

Bellows Boots
Tie Rods
Troubleshooting Your Power Steering Pump
How does it work?
The pump itself draws in fluid from a return line and pressurizes it. This system has to make enough
pressure to turn the wheels at idle, requiring a valve to control pressure when the engine is running
at higher speeds.
What can go wrong with power steering?

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If there isn’t enough fluid in the system, there is air in the system, there is a leak in the system or
there are contaminants in the fluid, there won’t be enough fluid pressure to power the system.
Blockages can reduce pressure at idle, making the vehicle difficult to turn at low speeds yet behave
normally at street and highway speeds.
If the pump or drive belt fails, turning the steering wheel operates the steering rack manually while
also pushing fluid through the lines. This makes it extremely difficult to steer. If either part is near
failure, there will be noise when turning, particularly when making sharp turns.
How can these problems be addressed?
The power steering pump should be located next to the engine, with a clearly marked reservoir
attached to it. There should be a dipstick on the inside of the cap: Some vehicle have “hot” and
“cold” markings, but readings will be more accurate if the fluid level is checked while the engine is
cold.
The type of fluid required should be marked on the top of the cap. Old fluid can be removed using a
syringe. Fluid that is shiny or has metal filings is a sure sign that the pump is near failure.
Power Steering Tips Help and Advice
PROTECT THE INSTALLATION AND WARRANTY OF ALL POWER STEERING UNITS

FLUSH THE SYSTEM
Refer to owner’s manual or manufacturer's specifications to determine the proper fluid to be used in
the power steering system and the rack and pinion unit. Use only recommended fluids.
Other steering components may retain residue from the old system and contaminate the new rack
immediately, possibly voiding the warranty. If in doubt fit a inline filter to the return hose (low
pressure pipe).

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A leading cause of malfunctioning units is hose residue in the system. Hoses don't just "up and
break". They deteriorate - they rot - they break away - they slough off bits and pieces of rubber
residue, passing them into the system to plug up or gum up the valves and orifices in the Rack and
Pinion unit.
CHECK ALL POWER STEERING HOSES
Since they deteriorate from the "inside-out," it is sometimes hard to tell if they are failing just by
looking. If the hoses feel stiff, hard or spongy - replace all hoses in the system. Here's why: The
hoses are all made from similar compounds. If one hose is in poor condition or rotten, it is a sure
sign that they all are ready to be replaced.
HOW TO FLUSH A SYSTEM
1. With the Rack and Pinion hosed disconnected, place the outlet hose from the power steering
pump into a waste container. 2. Fill the pump reservoir with fresh fluid - start engine - continue filling
with fresh fluids until the fluid coming from the pump outlet is running clean. DO NOT RUN THE
PUMP DRY (without fluid). 3. Reconnect the lines to the rack, fill power steering reservoir with fluid
to correct level. Most systems are self-bleeding. A few turns left to right will remove any air in the
system.
NOTE: Some pumps are difficult to bleed all the air out of and the result is a "growling" type of noise.
Make sure all fittings are airtight by loosening slightly and re-tightening.
LEAKING HOSES AND SEALS
1. Too much fluid in pump reservoir (1) remove oil to proper level
2. Damaged or improperly installed (2) replace or adjust o ring in pump reservoir
3. Loose pump fittings or studs (3) re-torque to specifications
4. Defective pump and seals (4) replace
5. Cracks in hose or splits in fittings (5) replace hose assembly
TIGHT / LOOSE STEERING / VALVE ASSEMBLY OUT OF HYDRAULIC BALANCE
1. Loose wheel bearings (1) adjust wheel bearings

2. Faulty shocks (2) replace shocks
3. Worn linkage components (3) replace worn components
4. Loose steering gear mountings or linkage points(4) tighten mountings or linkage
5. steering rack / box worn or improperly adjusted (5) replace and/or adjust unit
6. torsion bar bent due to impact
NOISES
1. loose belts (1) replace and/or adjust belts

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2. low fluid, air in system (2) refill and check for leaks
3. foreign matter in system (3) disassemble and clean system
4. improper lubrication (4) lubricate all fittings
5. interference or seizing in linkage in linkage (5) disassemble, inspect, replace or adjust
components
6. steering gear mountings loose (6) tighten mountings
7. incorrect adjustment or wear in rack or box(7) disassemble, inspect, repair, replace and/or
adjust parts
8. wear in pump (8) replace pump as necessary
VEER OR WANDER
(1) Improper tire pressure (1) inflate tires to recommended pressures

(2) Improper front end alignment (2) align front end
(3) Binding brakes (3) inspect replace and/or adjust brakes
(4) Front cradler loose or accident damage (4) straighten frame
(5) Improper rear end alignment (5) inspect shocks and control arm torque replace and/or adjust as
necessary
(6) Faulty shocks or springs (6) replace as necessary
(7) loose or bent front end components (7) replace as necessary
(8) Play in pitman drop arm (8) inspect bushings and arm. replace as necessary
(9) Loose wheel bearings (9) adjust to specifications
(10) Pitman drop arm ball joint seizure (10) replace arm
WHEEL OSCILLATION
(1) Improper tire pressures (1) inflate tires to recommended pressures

(2) Loose wheel bearings (2) adjust to specifications
(3) Improper front end alignment (3) align front end
(4) Worn tie rods (4) track rod ends
(5) Worn, bent or broken front end components (5) inspect, repair or replace as necessary
(6) Tires out of round or out of balance (6) replace or balance tires
(7) Excessive lateral runout in disc brake, disc or rotor (7) reface or replace brake disk or rotor
Self-Check
9.2-1
1.Type of steerting system that is quickly becoming the most common type of steering on
cars, small trucks and SUVs. It is actually a pretty simple mechanism. It is gear set is
enclosed in a metal tube, with each end of the rack protruding from the tube
A. Power rack-and-pinion Steering C. Rack-and-pinion steering

B. Recirculating-ball steering D. None of the above
2. Type of steering gear contains a worm gear. You can image the gear in two parts. The
first part is a block of metal with a threaded hole in it. This block has gear teeth cut into the
outside of it, which engage a gear that moves the pitman arm.
A. Power rack-and-pinion Steering C. Rack-and-pinion steering

B. Recirculating-ball steering D. None of the above
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3.Which statement is true. Technician A. Hoses must not touch any other part of vehicle.
Steering system noise could be caused by the hose touching the frame, body, or engine.
Tehnician B. All hoses connections must be tight. Loose connections might not leak but
could allow air into the system
A. Technician A. C. Technician B
B. Both Technicians are correct D. Both Technicians are wrong
4. There are the main components of a rack-and-pinion except.
A. Rack-and-pinion assembly C. Bellows Boots

B. Idler arm D. Tie rods
5. In testing the steering system. It is Perhaps the easiest test and possibly the most
important is to test the temperature of the steering gear.
A. Oil C. Noise
B. Heat D. Gear Articulation

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Answer Key
9.2-1
1. C - Rack-and-pinion
2. B - Recirculating-ball steering
3. B - Both Technicians are correct
4. B - Idler arm
5. B - Heat

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Wheel Balancing
Wheel Balance
Wheel balancing—also known as tire balancing—is the process of equalizing the

weight of the combined tire and wheel assembly so that it spins smoothly at high speed.
Balancing involves putting the wheel/tire assembly on a balancer, which centers the wheel
and spins it to determine where the weights should go.
In essence, wheels and tires are never exactly the same weight all around. The
wheel's valve stem hole will usually subtract a small amount of weight from one side of the
wheel. Tires will also have slight weight imbalances, whether from the joining point of the
cap plies or simply from a slight deviation in the shape of the wheel. At high speeds, a tiny
imbalance in weight can easily become a large imbalance in centrifugal force, causing the
wheel/tire assembly to spin with a kind of “galumphing” motion. This usually translates into a
vibration in the car as well as some very irregular and damaging wear on the tires.

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Wheel Balancing Procedure
Depending on the equipment you have, tire/wheel assemblies are balanced in a

number of ways. The steps are outlined as follows if you are using one of the more modern,
automated machines. These instructions are not meant to cover every balancing situation .
Before a tire can be balanced, it must be concentrically seated. You can determine this by
measuring the distance between the molded rib on the lower sidewall of the tire and the edge of the
wheel’s rim flange. The tire must be deflated and reseated if the distance between the two points is
greater than 2/32-inch.
After ensuring that the beads have reseated properly, the tire should be inflated to the
recommended pressure.
1. Turn your machine OFF then ON, which resets the balancer. The machine wakes up
using standard clip-on wheel weight locations.
2. Remove stones/rocks or other debris from tread and any weights already attached to the
wheel. During this process you also should remove any mud, dirt or snow on the inside of
the wheel and make sure that the mounting surface of the wheel is completely clean of
debris.
3. Mount a tire/wheel assembly on a balancer that will use standard clip-on wheel weights.
Use the most appropriate mounting method. Technicians should be careful to avoid back
injury and should seek assistance when lifting a heavy tire/wheel assembly onto a balancing
shaft.
4. There are three main mounting methods. They include:
• Back Cone – Most original equipment and steel wheels can be mounted properly using
this method. The wheel is centered on a cone from the inner side of the wheel.
• Front Cone – A wheel should be centered by the outer side of the hub only when the inner
surface will not provide an accurate surface to center on.

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• Pin-Plate – An alternate method of securing and aligning an assembly on a balancing
machine is the pin-plate method. A pin-plate is added instead of a pressure cup.
5. Enter A & D wheel dimensions using offset arm.
Before a wheel can be balanced, wheel dimensions must be entered into the computer on
your unit. These include:
A = Offset – The distance measured from the balancer (“0” on offset arm) to inner plane of
the wheel rim (inner weight location).
W = Width – The width of the wheel at the rim flanges, measured with calipers.
D = Diameter – The diameter of the wheel as indicated on the tire.
6. For automatic measurement, pull the offset arm out to the wheel, hold it still at clip-on
weight position against the wheel flange and wait for a “beep.” Return the arm to home
position.
7. Enter the wheel width dimension. Use plastic calipers to measure wheel width for manual
entry. Press the W key. Use the keypad to enter width value (between 2 and 20 inches.)
Lower the hood for automatic measurement.
Note the value entry of the W dimension.
8. Lower the hood. The wheel will spin and unbalances are measured and displayed. The
corrective weight amount appears in the weight display window for inboard and outboard
weight locations.
9. Raise the hood after the tire stops rotating. Make sure that the wheel has stopped before
raising the hood.

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10. Inboard center bar blinks. If an inboard corrective weight is not required, the wheel will
stop at the outboard corrective weight location and you can go to Step 13.
11. Attach inboard corrective weight. Attach specified weight amount at top-dead-center on
the inside flange of the wheel. NOTE: Wheel weight suppliers often will supply a rim flange
contour gauge to help technicians select the correct clip-on weight for the wheel.
12. Press NEXT, causing the wheel to rotate.
13. The outboard center bar will blink.
14. Attach outboard corrective weights. Attach specified weight amount at the top-dead-
center on the outside flange of the wheel.
15. Lower the hood to respin the tire/wheel and check balance. The weight readings should
now be 0.00.

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Self-Check
9.3-1
1. It is the process of equalizing the weight of the combined tire and wheel assembly that it
spins smoothly at high speed.
A. Wheel Balancing C. Tire Balancing

B. Wheel centering D. Both A and C
2. Most original equipment and steel wheels can be mounted properly using this method.
The wheel is centered on a cone from the inner side of the wheel.
A. Back Cone C. Front Cone

B. Pin Plate D. End plate
3. An alternate method of securing and aligning an assembly on a balancing machine is the

pin-plate method. A pin-plate is added instead of a pressure cup.
4. A wheel should be centered by the outer side of the hub only when the inner surface will
not provide an accurate surface to center on.
5. Which technician is correct, Technician A” Depending on the equipment you have,

tire/wheel assemblies are balanced in a number of ways. The steps are outlined as follows if
you are using one of the more modern, automated machines” Technician B “Before a tire
can be balanced, it must be concentrically seated. You can determine this by measuring the
distance between the molded rib on the upper sidewall of the tire and the edge of the
wheel’s rim flange.
A. Technician A C. Technicians are incorrect

B. Technician B D. Technician A and B

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Answer Key
9.3-1
1. D - Both A and C
2. A – Back Cone
3. B – Pin Plate
4. C – Front cone
5. A - Technician A

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Front End Geometry Alignment
If you can shake your front wheel and it jiggles where the tie rod attaches to the steering
knuckle, you need new outer tie rods. Should the worn tie rod eventually break, very severe
damage would result to your Z, and probably to you.
The following discussion describes how to change your tie rods and how to align your front
tires after replacement of the rods.
Tools include: metric wrenches and sockets, crow's foot or tie rod puller, torque wrench, 4-
foot adjustable spring-loaded curtain rod, grease gun.
1. Jack up and support the front end. Ensure the parking brake is on and the rear wheels are
blocked. Use jack stands to support the front. I tend to use redundant supports and even put a
stakc of wooden blocks under the front wheels, so there is a backup in case one support fails. Then,
I push and pull on the car to see everything is solid before starting work.
2. TIE ROD REPLACEMENT: Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut where the driver's tie rod (1
- see Figure, below) mounts to the knuckle (2). Remove the castle nut (a.k.a., ball stud nut). The
tie rod end is conical in shape and fits into a conical recess within the knuckle. It usually is not easy
to pull the tie rod down out of the knuckle, so I use a crow's foot, shown in the figure, to wedge them
apart. Alternately, a tie rod puller or strong wheel puller the right size can help in the removal.
Typically, I use a large hammer to force the wedge shape of the crow's foot in between the tie rod
and knuckle. While applying force to the crow's foot, I hammer on the tie rod or the tie rod bolt
where it extends through the knuckle. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's not. With the tie rod
removed, clean the inside of the knuckle conical recess where the new tie rod will mount.
3. Hold the old outer tie rod with one wrench while loosening the lock nut (3 - a.k.a., side rod lock
nut) between the outer tie rod (1) and inner tie rod (4). Note, the driver's side tie rod is threaded in
counter-clockwise (non-standard threading) and the passenger's side tie rod is threaded in clockwise
(standard threading direction). Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench and turn out the outer tie rod
while counting the number of turns it takes to remove. (Alternately, you can remember the original
tie rod position by marking it with the lock nut.)
4. Thread the new tie rod onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns it took to remove the old
tie rod. Position the threaded conical tie rod end mount in the knuckle, thread the castle nut on to
the tie rod thread and tighten to about 50 foot-pounds stopping at a position where the cotter pin can
be inserted. Grease the new tie rod.

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Revision # 01
5. Leave the lock nut untightened for now and replace the passenger's outer tie rod, noting the
number of turns to thread the passenger's tie rod to the inner tie rod. Compare the number of turns
for the driver's and passenger's side. Turn one or the other rod in or out so that the both outer tie
rods are turned in the same number of turns. At this point, the driver's side wheel should be about
the same distance from the frame with the steering turned all the way right as the passenger's wheel
is from the frame when the steering is turned all the way left.
6. ALIGNMENT: I do these measurements with the car on the ground. If the car was just taken off
jacks, roll it a little to relax the suspension into a normal position. The 4-foot spring loaded curtain
rod changes length when you turn one end relative to the other. Adjust the curtain rod so that it just
touches both front wheels, as shown in the figure, at a forward position. Position the curtain rod
across between the front wheels at a rearward position. You can't get it all the way back because of
suspension parts in the way, but place it as far back on the wheels as you can. If the curtain rod is
tighter at the rearward position than the forward position, your wheels are "toed out"; if the curtain
rod is loose at the rearward position, then your wheels are "toed in" (pointing to the center axis of the
car). If the curtain rod touches the wheels about the same front and rear, the wheels are aligned.

7. If the wheels are toed in too much (Datsun suggests 3 mm toe in), turn the inner tie rods out from
each of the outer tie rods exactly the same amount. I roll the car back and forth once to let the
wheels relax to the new alignment (this may not be necessary, but I have my compulsions). Re-
measure the distance difference between the wheels, front and rearward. Repeat adjustments until
you have the alignment you want. If the wheels are toed out, with the wheel fronts further apart than
rearward, turn the inner tie rods in to each of the outer tie rods the same amount until the are
aligned, or with a slight toe in. When the wheels are aligned properly, lock the adjustment by
tightening the lock nuts between the inner and outer tie rods (about 50 foot pounds).
8. Take your Z for a drive. Does the car go straight when you let go of the steering wheel?
Significant misalignment can cause your Z to wander. When you are going straight, is the steering
wheel centered? If not, you may want to pull the horn pad, remove the big nut, pull the steering
wheel and reposition it to be centered on the steering column. After you have driven the car about
20 miles, or so, rub your hand across the front of the front tires. You might notice your hand slides
easier moving in (toward the center axis of the car), than out. This indicates the wheels are toed in,
with tire wear causing a "feathering" on the inside of raised tread patterns, but rounding on the
outside of the tread patterns. If your hand slides easier moving out than in, this indicates the wheels
are toed out. If you cannot detect a difference between the resistance sliding your hand in or out
across the front of your tire, the wheels are probably aligned.
Instructions
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STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
 Lie on the ground and have your assistant help you measure the distance between the
vehicle's two front wheels, measuring from the leading edges of the tires. The leading edge is
the tread side that points toward the front of the vehicle. The easiest way to do this is to have
the same reference point on each tire, so pick a vertical groove and both of you use that for
reference.
 Measure the distance between the wheels from the trailing edges of the tires. The trailing
edge is the tread side that points toward the rear of the car. The difference between these
two measurements is the amount your toe is off. It is possible that one side is off more than
the other, but adjusting them both at the same time should fix the problem.
 Locate the tie rod ends under the vehicle. They're mounted to the steering knuckle, and are
generally 6 inches long with a ball joint at one end. An adjustment sleeve joins the tie rod to
the steering linkage.
 On one side of the vehicle, loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve with the 3/8-inch ratchet
and socket. Then turn the adjusting sleeve with your hands or a pair of channel-lock pliers.
By turning the adjusting sleeves toward the back of the vehicle, it pulls the leading edge of
the tire toward the engine. By turning it toward the front bumper, it pushes the leading edge
away from the vehicle. Repeat this step on the other side of the vehicle.
 Re-measure the distance between both the leading and trailing edges of the tires with the
help of your assistant and the tape measure. If the measurement is within 1/8 inch, then
you're within the acceptable range. If not, repeat the process.
 Tighten down the nuts on the adjustment sleeves using the 3/8-inch ratchet.
BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.

Lucban-Tayabas Road
Brgy. ManasaLucban,Quezon
Issued by:
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
WORK SHEET
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: REPLACING THE PITMAN ARM OR STEERING ARM
II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to
 Disassemble and re-mount the pitman arm correctly.

 Demonstrate occupational health and safety in doing the activity
III. TIME:60 min.
IV. TOOLS and MATERIALS
a) Floor Jack
b) Jack stands
c) Wheel chocks
d) Lug wrench
e) Ratchet, extension, and socket set
f) Cotter pin
g) Pitman arm puller
h) Replacement pitman arm
i) Safety glasses and necessary PPE
V. Procedure
HOW TO REPLACE YOUR PITMAN ARM OR STEERING ARM
1. Raise the vehicle and find the Pitman arm

Issued by:
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
Use your lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the front driver's side tire (without removing
them). Place the wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Use the floor jack to raise the front of your
vehicle. Set up the jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is resting securely on the jack stands before
you proceed. Fully remove the lug nuts and the front wheel at the driver's side of the vehicle.
2. Remove the "Big Nut"
Remove the large nut that holds the Pitman arm in place.
We have to get it in the air, so jack the left side (most cases, see your repair manual if you're not
sure) of the truck up under the A-arm and put a jack stand under the frame on the left side. Lower
the truck down on the jack stand and remove the wheel.
You have to remove the big nut that holds the Pitman arm to the steering box. In this case, it was a
1-5/16 nut that was torqued to 180 ft lbs. I used a 3/4" drive socket and a big-mother breaker bar
(Figure 2). I was all ready for a battle and it turned out that the nut was hardly tight at all. It came
right off, which was not a good thing. Loose is never good when you're talking about steering.
Issued by:
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
3. Pull the Pitman Arm from the Shaft
Use a Pitman arm puller to remove the arm.
Take your Pitman arm puller and remove the arm from the steering shaft (Figure 3.) It will release
from the shaft and drop down some but the arm is still being held up by the center link.
4. Disconnect the Pitman from the “Center link”.
Remove the cotter pin, then remove the nut holding the centerlink in place.
Next remove the cotter pin and the large nut that holds the Pitman to the center link. Use a pickle
fork or a puller to separate the Pitman from the centerlink (Figure 4.) You should be able to remove
the Pitman by pulling down on the centerlink and slipping it out.
If you're doing both the idler arm and the Pitman today, this is where you will appreciate the fact that
you have not installed the idler arm yet. If you can't get the Pitman arm out, drop the idler arm down
by removing the 2 bolts that attach it to the frame.
5. Reinstall the Pitman Arm

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STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
Use the grease liberally to protect all the steering components.
Put some anti-seize grease on the steering box's tapered bolt. Pack grease up into the steering box
around the top of the tapered bolt. This will help keep out dirt and moisture. Prepare a new cotter pin
by cutting down the length of one side to match the one you removed.
Take a rag and wipe the junk away from the steering shaft and the centerlink hole. Take a good glob
of grease and pack it up all around where the steering shaft sticks out of the steering box. This will
help seal the steering box from the elements.
Look at the inside splines on the Pitman arm.
You will notice that there are 4 flat spots that match up with the splines on the steering box. Install
the Pitman on the steering shaft making sure to line up the splines and at the same time insert the
tapered bolt in the centerlink. Put the split lock washer and hand start the big nut on the steering
shaft and tighten it to your vehicle's specs.
Install the large nut on the Pitman bolt and tighten it to spec, making sure that while you are turning
the nut you line up the cotter pin hole. Always tighten to align the holes, never go backwards! Install
the new cotter pin and grease the Pitman.
RUBRIC FOR PERFORMANCE

Dimension Highly Competent Competent Fairly Competent Not Yet
Competent
4 3 2 1
1. Proficiency Perform the task Perform the task Perform the task The task is not
of performing with exceptional with competence with competence performed.
replacement performance and with standard but below standard
performance.
of pitman arm performance.
2. Level of Student was able to Student was able Student was able Student was
Issued by:
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01
needed complete the task to complete the to complete the unable to
assistance without assistance task with little task with moderate complete the
assistance assistance from task without
instructor and peer major
assistance
3. Safety/ Student followed all Student followed Student attempted Students failed
Work habits safety rules and most safety rules, to follow safety to follow
have PPE all the may have rules but failed to significant
time of training. forgotten one meet several PPE. safety rules and
PPE. PPE.
4. Speed/ Work finished ahead Work finished No concept of
Time of time close to deadline time
5. Clean up Cleaned his Students made Student somewhat Student did not
and return assigned area and effort to clean cleaned assigned clean assigned
tools returned tools to assigned area area and did not area or return
their proper place. and returned return tools to tools to proper
tools top proper proper place. place.
place.
POINTS EARNED NUMERICAL DESCRIPTIVE
16 - 20 91-100 Highly Competent

11 - 15 86-90 Competent
6 - 10 81-85 Fairly Competent
1-5 76-80 Not Yet Competent
Grade: ______________________________
Teacher’s Comment:
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________.

Issued by:
STEERING SYSTEM
Developed by:
Revision # 01

9 Info and Work Sheet Service Steering System2

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BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

I. TITLE: STEERING SYSTEM

II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

1.Define and identify the various types of steering systems.

Information Sheet 9.1-1

There are five steering geometry angles :

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

King Pin Inclination

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

The vehicle pulls to one side

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

2. In automotive engineering, it is also known as tracking.This can be contrasted with steer,

5. Common cause of center tire wire.

A. Excessive Camber C. Excessive Toe-in

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

 Provide precise control of front-wheel direction.

How Car Steering Works

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

The rack-and-pinion gearset does two things:

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Power steering in a recirculating-ball system works similarly to a rack-and-pinion system. Assist is

The rack-and-pinion system

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

The steering-box system

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Lubricating a rack and pinion

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

A ball joint with a grease nipple fitted underneath.

Greasing track-rod ball joints

Replaceable dust seal.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

• After any steering component replacement.

• To prevent pump damage.

• To ensure proper system operation.

• To stop steering system noise.

Carefully inspect the steering system.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

3. Turn steering wheel fully to the left.

4. Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.

7. Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)

- Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.

• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).

• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).

Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System

Step 1: Check belts for slippage.

WHEN CHANGING THE RACK & PINION OR GEAR BOX

DO NOT LET PUMP RUN DRY!

Troubleshooting Power Steering Problems

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Testing the Steering System

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

6. Engine Off Inspection

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

10. Testing the pump

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

11. The Gearbox

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Name: ________________ Date:

Name: ________________ Date: