Mobius Coil winding tutorial - toroidal

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Home How to Wind Toroidal Mobius Coils

an original coil design developed at Wizzers Workshop and the first such
online tutorial anywhere on the web...

updated Sep. 2006

This coil is composed of a series quadrifilar cable with a 45 degree helical

twist; the cable is then wound with a toroidal winding pattern. The first
wrap of the cable serves as the core around which to wind the toroid. Realistically, it will
seldom be a perfect 45 degrees if wound by hand. Angles between say 38 and 45 seem to
work well enough but the closer to 45 the better.

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First - Make yourself a "mobius Cable" to wind the coil from. While you can wind a
mobius coil from single strands of wire, it certainly seems to be a lot more potent when you
use a helical cable made in the manner described here to wind the coil from. Take a length
of wire, and double it back on itself twice as shown to the right. Pull a little slack out at the
ends of the wire, this will be the leads of the coil when it is finished. You should leave
yourself at least 2" for leads, and it is a good idea to give yourself 6" or so, you can always
trim the leads to the required length when the coil is finished. It is much easier to use a drill
to twist the wires than doing it by hand. After experimenting with both CW and CCW coils,
we have discovered that either will work. For many, a CCW coil is more comfortable. The
way that the coil leads enter the drill is not detailed in the color image above, see the B&W
image below for details.

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Shown in the second picture is a method to fit the cable end into the drill. Before
inserting the cable end into the drill to twist it, fold the leads back so that they point towards
the end of the cable opposite the end with the leads. Then wrap a few turns of electrical
tape around the wires to protect them from the drill. Use about 5 or 6 turns of electrical
tape. This provides a cushion so that when you tighten the drill chuck on the wires, it will not
scrape off the insulation. While working with the coil, be careful not to scrape the insulation
off the wires, or the coil will short out and not work. The thinner the wire, the more tape
and the more gently you must operate the drill. Take care not to scrape the insulation off
the wire while working with it. It is a good idea to wrap a few turn of electrical tape over the
hook to cushion it, and replace the tape as it wears over time (if you make a lot of them).
Visually inspect each cable for damage to the insulation. Lacquer-insulated 'magnet wire'
works great in sizes larger than AWG 26, for sizes smaller than AWG 26 use plastic insulated
wire.

Solid core wire is preferable IMO, but with sizes below AWG 26 or so you may need to
use wire made from woven strands in order to avoid breaking the wire. It can be done
(with magnet wire) but it's not easy and the process would best be served by a wire winding
machine and that's out of the range of most tinkerer. So... If using very fine wire, then use
wire with a plastic insulation and woven strands because this is physically stronger than the
lacquer coated wire. It also occupies approximately 3 to 5 times the space for the same
length of wire in a coil. Check each cable to verify that it connects electrically from end to
end and that the wire is not broken inside the cable.

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For a 60 foot cable made from 18 AWG, you should be able to measure ~ 0.5 Ohms
resistance. If there is 0.0x ohms resistance and you have at least thirty feet of wire, you
probably have a short. With thinner wires, the resistance increases. This page has detailed
wire resistance per foot tables which i used to give the examples shown below. Determine
how much resistance your cable should have and check it with a cheap digital multimeter if
possible (this is only an issue if you are using really thin wire). Alternately, you could devise
some other means to determine that the wire is not broken after twisting. Using a
multimeter lets you both determine if the wire is broken or not and if it is shorted or not.

Wire diameter in Coil Length in apx. Resistance in

AWG Feet Ohms

28 100 7.64

28 60 4.58

28 30 2.29

24 100 3.02

24 60 1.81

24 30 0.91

18 100 0.75

18 60 0.45

18 30 0.22

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1. - Starting with the end of the cable which does not have the leads, make a circle in
the cable about the size you want your finished coil to be. Wind the way that tightens
the cable not the way that loosens it; you will see what this means when you get into it. You
can wind the coil around a form initially if using stiff wire to form it. If using thin wire then
you can make 2 or 3 wraps around the circle to stiffen it up a little. Make the circle just a little
larger than you desired coil size. The spot where the circle closes is called Node A. Use a
little glue (hot melt or silicone preferable) to hold the wire in place where it meets itself at
Node A. You may wish to apply a little hot melt glue on the first pass around the circle, as
you set the locations of the next three nodes.

Even better is to slide a short length of heat shrink tubing on the end of the cable before
making circle. Then make the wrap, slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and shrink it.
You can only use heat shrink tubing on Node A. For Nodes B, C and D use hot melt glue or
electrical tape. If the coil is small enough you may even be able to hold things in place by
hand until it holds it's own shape.

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2. - Even out the circle, and mark off 3 spots arranged equally around (the circumference
of) the circle. Note the names I have assigned them in the image above.

3. - Feed the other end of the cable (the end with the leads) through the hole in the
center of the circle. Pull the length of the cable through the hole. At the spot where it
crosses over itself, bend the cable around to the outside of the circle again, kind of like
sewing a stitch. Make place where the cable wraps around itself at the spot marked as Node
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B in these images (the first of the 3 marked off spots you will come to as you continue
around the circle from Node A.

4. - Do the same thing at Node C.

5. - Do the same thing again at Node D. Even out the placement of the nodes and adjust
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the cable so that the circle is reasonably uniform. Keep on 'sewing' your way around the
circle until you have used all of the cable. Stay to one or the other side of the previous
wrap as you go to keep the coil neat. The nodes will move to the side each time you add a
layer, and eventually they will all run together. This method is suitable for cable lengths of
up to about 20 feet. if you want to put more wire in the coil then the simplest way to do it is
to make it a 6 or 8 filament cable instead of 4 and / or add several coils together.

The coil should look something like this when you are finished. Use a
little glue to hold the spot where the leads exit the coil securely. There
are lots of pictures spread around the site which show many different
examples of this type of coil.

<- example: QMD-S internal mobius coil

Just keep wrapping the cable around itself (clockwise) as you go around the circle. With a
little practice, you will find that the windings form a pattern, and if you make a mistake it will
be obvious as it does not fit the pattern. This coil tends to hold its shape reasonably well
once you get it started. You should measure the diameter of the object you wish to place in
the coil as a core when it is finished, and start with a circle a little larger than the diameter of
the intended core.

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I recommend using a Quartz or Water-in-a-glass-vessel core for mobius coils, because
scalar energy can sometimes be biologically disruptive when in 'raw' states. This information
is primarily intended for those who wish to use mobius coils as a means of exciting Quartz
crystals or Orgone Matrix Material, and you are responsible for your own safety. By making
this coil you agree not to hold me responsible for any damages your experiments may cause
to persons or property. Mobius coils generate scalar waves. Scalar waves can sometimes
interfere with and/or damage electronics when produced at high power levels. For the
purposes of Orgone research, power levels in the range of 0.5 to 50 watts are more than
adequate.

The coils are also partially active with no electrical power supplied in that they tend
to attenuate scalar background energy. They are least active when the coil leads are
isolated and most active (without power supplied to them) when the leads are shorted
together. When using these coils in radionic devices a purge function may be applied by
momentarily connecting the coil leads to each each other and / or ground. This is not always
necessary but mentioned for posterity.

<- example: ViBR III.2.x internal coil assembly

Simple and even messy-looking coils will still produce usable simple SP devices; the
angle of the cable twist is of more importance than the neatness of the toroidal
windings. Nodes will tend to form in the able and do not impair function of the coils for this
level of application. Further refinements to the coils which are possible for the
experimenter are the geometrical and size relationships of multiple coils to each other for
combined action, mirror image sets of coils arranged in bucking 180 or 90 degree rotational
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offset but on the same plane,45 degree planar offset of two coils aligned on common axis
(credit to L. White), dowsing or mathematical determinations of exact cable wire length. I
leave it to you to determine what effects these modifications generate; the basic coil form
depicted here is the simplest and most functional in terms of labor in to perceptible field
effect out.

Again, for simple scalar field modulators to be used in radionics or small wands such the SP
type of device ... the coil does not need to look pretty. It needs to have the cable twisted up
to an angle approaching 45 degrees through most of the cable length and to have it
wrapped back though the center of the circle in a toroidal pattern.

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