TTQC-III (Knitting)

COURSE NO: TEX 411

COURSE TITLE: Textile Testing and Quality Control-III

KNITTING

Ms. NASRIN AKTER

Assistant Professor

Department of Textile Engineering

AHSANULLAH UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

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QUALITY CONTROL IN KNITTING

The Quality control refers to obtaining the required specification in a product.

Quality control refers to control over the products quality throughout the process
of manufacturing. Before imparting quality control over process, the areas and
the methodology should be identified. The areas refer to the portion where the
quality has to be checked and methodology refers to the nature of quality control
program. To obtain a quality end product, Control over the quality of raw
material, machine and process is essential.

In any manufacturing process, the quality is controlled by the three ways such as
preventive measures, fault identification and rectification by knowing the causes
and on-line quality control

A. PREVENTIVE MEASURES:
Requirements on good yarn quality,well maintained knitting machine and
good production condition for knitting are to be considered under
preventive measures by controlling:
1. Yarn quality requirements.
2. Machine quality requirements
3. Knitting production condition

B. ONLINE QUALITY CONTROL:

1. Yarn monitoring sensors.

2. Automatic lubrication monitoring & controlling unit.
3. Fabric monitoring CCD cameras.
4. Speed control servo motors.
5. Production monitoring & displaying unit and
6. Needles monitoring and electric needle control system.

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QUALITY TEST FOR WEFT KNITTED FABRIC:

Following are the tests that the finished knitted fabrics normally undergo:

1. Fabric yield
2. Fabric appearance
3. Fabric pilling
4. Fabric extension
5. Fabric length
6. Fabric width
7. Fabric bow
8. Fabric skewness
9. Air permiability
10.Loop length & course length
11.Mass per unit area
12.Visible courses & wales
13.Yarn tex
14.Tightness factor
15.Reference relaxation
16.Dimension changes
17.Angle of spirality
18.Abrasion resistance
19.Bursting strength
20.Visual assessment of Barre
21.Fabric bow
22.Fabric skewness.

SPIRALITY
Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics. The length
wise rows of stitches, called wales or needle lines , should occupy a truly vertical
line in the fabric and should always be at a right angles to the cross wise courses
of stitches. This perpendicularity of wales to the course is frequently, not the

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cause and many time the wales may skew to the right or left forming or angle,
which appears in the form of a twilled surface, which appears in the form of a
twilled surface. This geometrical defect has been termed spirality of knitting in
circular fabrics.

CAUSES OF SPIRALITY OF FABRIC:

There are different types of causes for occurring fabric spirlity. Course spirality is a
very common inherent problem in plain knitted fabrics. The following are some
predominant causes of spirality in knitted fabrics.

 Yarn twist multiplier is the principle cause of spirality and it is directly

proportional.
 Residual torque in the yarn or the twist liveliness.
 Spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in
the wales and course of a fabric into an angular relationship other than 90
degree.
 Number of feeders-though higher feeder numbers increases production,
spirality also increased.
 Different spinning technologies such as ring, rotor, airjet etc., also influence
spirality. The physical properties of these yarns, their geometrical
characteristics, their basic fibre properties (i.e. modules, fineness, cross
section etc.) and blends are the causes.

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 Variation in knitting tension, yarn frictional properties, yarn/metal

coefficient of friction, yarn lubrication, number of contact points in the
knitting zone i.e. needles and sinkers) also influence spirality.
 Washing wet treatments increases fabric relaxation and also increases
spirality.
 Direction of machine rotation has little influence on spirality. Slight
inclination of loops occurs in the direction of machine rotation. Multifeed
machines rotating clockwise produce spirality to the left and machines
rotating anti clock wise produce spirality to the right.

Fig: Diagram of Causes of spirality of fabric

Remedial measures:

Compacting: Compaction reduces the length of the fabric based on its elongation
during processing which, in turn, reduces the width. It helps in controlling the

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shrinkage of the fabric. There are two types of compactors - open and tubular. In
tubular compactor, the squeezing line gets on the sides in this process and is done
on natural movement thus controlling spirality. If the wales are straightened
manually then it results in spirality.

Resin treatment: Cross-linking the fabric by means of inter fibre bonding also
reduces spirality. Resin in the form of aqueous solution is applied and set by
passing the fabric through a high temperature stenter. This method is not
recommended for cotton fabrics, since it weakens the cotton yarn.

Heat setting: Steam or hot water setting reduces twist liveliness and hence
spirality. Mercerization is recommended for cotton yarns, so that fibres are made
to relax permanently.

Balancing yarn twist factor: In an earlier investigation on plain knitted wool

fabrics, it was been revealed that raising the twist factor of a ply yarn increases
the left-hand of S-direction spirality of fabrics. But while increasing the twist
factor of a single yarn, there is decrease in left-hand of S-direction spirality with
an increase in right-hand or Z-direction spirality. Thus, there is possibility to
balance twist factors for both ply and single yarns with a view to achieve zero
spirality. Experimental study by Chen, Q H on wool knits indicates that, when the
ratio of twist factor of the ply yarn to the twist factor of single yarn is about 0.73,
zero spirality may be achieved.

Effect of spirality:

Spirality has definite influence on both functional and aesthetic performance of

knitted fabrics and their garments.Displacement or shifting of seams during
garment make0up, mismatched pattern due to wales skewness, sewing
difficultiesetc., are some important practical difficulties due to spirality.

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Evaluation of Spirality:

AATCC Test method 179 -2004:

This test method determines change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics or
twist in garments when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures
commonly used in the home. Washing and drying procedures used for shrinkage
tests and other home laundering tests are specified for this method.

For some fabrics the degree of twist of fabric in garments is not solely dependent
on its behavior in the unsewn state; it also may be dependent on the manner of
garment assembly.

This method is based on the following principle:

Change in skewness in fabric or twist in garment specimens resulting from

procedures typical of home laundering practices is measured using bench marks
applied to the specimens before laundering. Fabrics or garments that are
distorted in their unlaundered state due to faulty finishing of the fabric or faulty
assembly of garments may give deceptive results when laundered by any
procedure. In such cases, it is recommended that specimens not be used, or if
used, the results be considered as indicative of those specimens only.

One of the common methods of measurement of spirality in garment is indicated

below:

Figure 1: Inverted T marking

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One leg of a right angle marking device is placed along Line YZ so that the second
leg is on a perpendicular downward from point "B". A bench mark is drawn along
the perpendicular on line YZ. The intersection of the bench mark and line YZ
corresponds with point A' as depicted in Figure 1. The length of lines AA' and AB is
measured and recorded with a suitable tape or ruler to the nearest millimeter or
tenth of an inch or smaller increment. The point A can be shifted to left or right
depending on the direction of spirality.

Calculation:

Percent change in spirality can be represented as follows:

X = 100 x (AA/AB),

Where, X = % change in spirality

Practical way of measurement:

Determination of spirality in percentage:

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 Align the shoulder of the top (Figure 2) or the waist of the bottom (Figure 3)
and lay it flat without tension on the table.
 Gently remove large wrinkles and creases. Begin smoothing at point E
working down the garment body.
 Using marking pen, one spirality mark should be placed at uppermost of the
garment folded edge (point E) and the other spirality mark should be placed
at the lower most point of the same folded edge (Point F).
 Measure and record the distance from point F to point G and measure and
record the distance from point H and point G.
 Then, wash and dry the specimen according to care label as per the
recommended procedure.
 Condition the specimen after washing.
 Align again the shoulder of the top or the waist of the bottom and lay it flat
without tension on the table.
 Gently remove large wrinkles and creases. Begin smoothing at point E
working down the garment body.
 Measure and record the distance from point E to point G.
 Measure and record the distance from point F to point G.

Calculate spirality of garments before and after washing using the following
formula-

FG

% Spirality = -----------x 100

EG

As per the experience of world renowned retailers in the globe, seam twisting /
shape distortion / spirality greater than 6% in tops and shorts and 4% in skirts,
pants, dresses, and sleepwear detracts from the appearance of the garment.

Determination of angle of wale spirality

 For specimens tested in the original state conditioning is not essential, for
processed specimens a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere is
required.

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 Determine accurately the path of the course line; this can be achieved by
either placing the base of the protractor or a rule along the course line or
drawing a line parallel to the course with a fine tip pen.

 Determine accurately the path of the wale line that intersects with the
drawn course line, draw along this wale line.

 Place the protractor along a course line ensuring wale intersects with the
bottom of the 90 line on the protractor (Figure 4).

 The angle between the 90 line and wale line is measured and the direction
of spirality (+ right, - left) is recorded.

 Repeat the process nine more times so that ten results are recorded and
the mean is determined.

Notes:

 If any difficulty occurs in finding the accurate course line by eye, unravel a
few courses to determine the exact line before measurement is taken.

 This method can be used on knitted constructions other than single jersey,
where spirality is a problem.

 Relaxation in a conditioned atmosphere 65%2%rh & 202C is preferable but

where a conditioned atmosphere is not available greater variation in result
may occur.

Figure 4: Schematic representation of the measurement of spirality angle

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As per the experts and different world renowned buyers, the angle of spirality
lesser than 10 degree is acceptable as performance requirement and it is
expected that within that threshold limit knit loops will not pose any serious
problem.

Remarks:

In an ideal situation, the wales on the knitted fabric are to be perpendicular to the
course in the lattice structure. But this is far from being reality due to the fact that
the wales are not always perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or left
forming a certain angle of spirality. Due to the open and unstable structure.

DEFECTS IN KNITTED FABRICS:

Some important faults name of weft knitted fabrics:

1. Holes or cracts
2. Drop stitches / cloth fallout
3. Vertical lines
4. Tuck or double loops
5. Barre or horizontal stripes
6. Bunching – ups/piles ups
7. Color fly
8. Bow
9. Skew
10.Needle Trace
11.Centre line
12.Soiled yarn
13.Rust mark

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14.Slub
15.Loop distortion

Though the above faults are due to various sources such as yarn, machine and
processing imbalances, some differences in yarn properties may directly be
related to some common faults as given below:

1. Low strength weak yarn leads to holes and cracks.

2. Very uneven yarn produces cloudy fabrics.
3. Insufficiently waxed yarn leads to drop stitches and cloth fallout.
4. Bad dyed yarn produced horizontal stripes.
5. Too hairy yarn leads to differed stitch appearance and fluff build up.
6. Yarn with long period unevenness produce fabric with stripe.

Some important Knitted Fabric Faults with picture:

Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often
superimposed. The following knitted fabric defects are found in knitted fabric
production.

1. Broken ends, holes or cracks

2. Drop stitch
3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches
4. Snagging or snags
5. Tuck or double loop or stitches
6. Bunching-up
7. Vertical stripes
8. Horizontal stripes
9. Soil stripes
10.Color fly or color tinges
11.Distorted stitches or deformed or tilted loops

1. Broken ends, holes or cracks:

Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the
yarn had already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on
the knitted structure, yarn count, machine gauge and course density, the

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holes have different sizes. This size can therefore only be estimated if the
comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.

Broken ends, holes or cracks

Possible causes:

a) Yarn parameters

 High yarn irregularity

 Incorrect yarn input tension setting, yarn running-intention is too high
 Poorly lubricated yarns
 Weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation
 Knots, slubs etc.
 Yarn is too dry.

b) If the yarn is trapped between the cheek taper and the closing latch

 Yarn damage

c) Too small stitches

 Difficulty in casting-off of the stitches

d) Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct; yarn feeder badly set;
defective knitting elements.

Remedies:

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 Yarn strength must be sufficient to with stand the stretch as well as

uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Air humidification.
 Guide blowing.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Yarn regularity control.
 Precise yarn - guide resetting.
 Knot should be given properly.
 Use of protective filter creel.

2. Drop stitches:
These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not
properly fed during stitch formation, i.e., not properly laid-in the needle hooks.
These are the unlinked knitted loops.

Drop stitch
Possible causes:

a) In accurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hook;

 Closed latch – a wale of dropped stitches will be produced until the latch is
opened either by the operator or due to machine vibration.

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b) Broken needle hook;

c) Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take-down-tension the knitted loop could
fall out of the hook;

d) Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder

 The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, Example-low yarn tension and
high yarn vibrations

e) Yarn feeder wrongly threaded-in;

f) Dial loop length not properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop jumps out
of the needle hook;

g) Bad take-up;

h) Very dry material;

i) Insufficient yarn tension.

Remedies:

 Correct take-up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.

 Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter.
 Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch
Length.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or
too slack.
 Needle should be straight & well.
 The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big
knots etc
 The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as
per the knitted loop size.

2. Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches:

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It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur
either when a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate
connection. Cloth fall-out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and removes the
yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.

Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches

Possible causes:

 Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder

 Yarn package winding faults, poor package buildup;
 Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.

Remedies:

 Needle detectors, should be set precisely, to detect the closed needles &
prevent the fabric tube from completely pressing off.
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a
drop stitch.
 Proper yarn tension should be maintained, on all the feeders.

3. Needle marks or Vertical stripes:

Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space
between adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric

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is broken up in an unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric

are often the result of a meager setting, i.e., the yarn count selected is too
fine for the machine gauge or the stitch size (course density) is not correct.
Needles are bent, damaged, do not move uniformly smooth, come from
different suppliers or are differently constructed.

Vertical stripes
Possible causes:

 Twisted or bent needle hooks;

 Stiff latches and needles;
 Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch;
 Heavily running needles;
 Damaged dial and cylinder;
 Damaged needle latch and needle hooks;
 Damages on other knitting elements.

Remedies:

 Yarn count should be selected as machine gauge.

 Stitch size should be correct.
 Selection of needle properly.
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch

5. Horizontal Stripes:
These are caused by unevenness in the courses; they traverse horizontally and
repeat themselves regularly or irregularly.

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Horizontal Stripes
Possible causes:

 Deflector in dial cam brought into tuck position.

 Deflector not completely switched off. Needle can still grip the yarn and
forms a tuck loop.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
 Differences in the yarn running-intension.
 Couliering not constant at all feeders.
 Jerky impulse from fabric take-up.

Remedies:

 The machine must be mounted horizontally.

 Needle dial & cylinder must be exactly centered towards one another.
 Replace that bobbin.
 Yarn tension & stitch should be controlled uniformly.
 Yarns of same lot should be used.
 Check cams positioning

6. Barriness
Barriness defect appears in the knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of
uniform or variable width. Actually barre'ness is the periodic lateral irregularities

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Barriness
A. Structural Barre'ness:

Possible causes:

 Individual yarns differ with respect to count, properties or structure;

 Different course lengths in feeders.

B. Colour Barre'ness:

Possible causes:

 Knitting of yarns which differ in colour;

 Yarns dye differently during piece dyeing.

C. Shadow Barre'ness:
Possible causes:

 Shadow like changes in the appearance of the fabric. Very difficult to detect
and done by reflected light.

Remedies:

 Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.

 Ensure that the hardness of, all the yarn packages, is uniform, using a
hardness tester.

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 The average Count variation in the lot, should not be more than + 0.3
 Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot / Merge no.

7. Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places:

Visible knots in the fabric are referred to as bunching up. They appear as
beads and turn up irregularly in the fabric. Can build up resulting in a
‘cloudy’ appearance. More irregular the yarn, more pronounced is the
‘cloudy’ appearance.

Bunching-up
Possible causes:

 Thick and thin places in the yarn;

 Fabric take-up too weak.

Remedies:

 Specify the quality parameters of the yarns to be used for production to the
yarn supplier.
 Preventing count or lot mixing.
 Maintaining uniform yarn tension..
 Fabric take-up should function properly.

8. Snagging:

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Snags mainly occur while processing filament yarns. The tendency towards
snagging can be reduced by using yarns with a coarser single filament
count, lesser crimp elasticity and higher twist.

Snagging
Causes:
During knitting all mechanical influences, caused by rough surfaces on yarn guide
elements, yarn feeders, needles, fabric take-up, etc. have to be avoided. Even
after knitting some snags can appear especially during fabric setting, if its storage
and further processing has not been undertaken carefully.

Remedies:

 Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all the machines (Soft Flow
Dyeing, Tumble Dryer & Centrifuge etc), on which snagging is taking place.
 Using yarn with a coarser single filament count, lesser crimp elasticity and
higher twist.
 During knitting on mechanical influences, caused by rough surfaces on yarn
guide elements, yarn feeders, needles, fabric take-up etc.

9. Tuck or Double stitches:

These occur due to badly knitted or non-knitted loops. They are

unintentional tuck loops or floats, also showing up as thick places or small
beads in the fabric. At first instance they may also appear as a shadow
when the fabric is observed against light.

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Possible causes:

 Fabric take-up is too weak, i.e., fabric take-up is insufficient, must be re

adjusted, has a one sided drag on the fabric or is not continuous.
 The dial is set too high. The dial needles do not support the fabric, which is
thus pulled up.
 The course density or couliering is not set correctly.
 The loops are too tight, e.g. with interlock. These loops are not removed
from the needles.

Remedies:

 Fabric take-up must be adjusted.

 The coarse density must be set correctly.

10.Soil stripe:

Soil stripes can appear both in the direction of wales as well as courses. Soil
stripes in the direction of the wales are solely caused by the knitting
machine. In most cases they are so called needle stripes; they occur when
individual needles have been replaced or when the working of mechanical
or automatic oiling or greasing devices is defective.

Stripes or soiled places in the direction of the courses were already present
usually in the yarn, if not caused by a standing course as a result of machine
stoppage.

Causes:

 Defective oiling or greasing.

 Sudden machine stoppage.
 At the time of defective needle replacing.

Remedies:

 Consciously oiling or greasing.

 Being aware of needle changing.

11.Colour Fly:

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Colour fIy consists of single fibres, bunches of fibres or yarn pieces in

varying colours. It additionally sticks on the yarn or is knitted into the fabric
and is very difficult to remove.

Causes:

 Hairs with natural dark color present in raw wool.

 Fly coming from various processing stages during spinning.

Remedies:

 Should be careful of fly coming at the time of spinning.

 Certain of hairs with natural dark color are unavoidable & must be
tolerated.

YIELD OF WARP KNIT FABRICS

The yield is one of the most important concepts to both manufacturers and
customers. Yield forms the basic on which the fabric cost are computed. Yield is
the inverse of fabric or the number of yards per pound of fabric. Yield is usually
expressed in two way:
1. Grey Yield
2. Finished yield

One thousand pounds of grey goods produce 4500 yards of fabric. The finished
weight of the fabric in 900lb and the dimensions of finished fabrics are length
4400 yards and width 108 inch. Find,

1. Linear yield in grey state.

2. Square yards yield in finished state.

Solution: 1. Grey state linear yield = 4500/1000 = 4.5 yards/lb

2. Finished state yield = (4400/900) x (108/36) = 14.66 square yards/lb

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