Republic of the Philippines

Commission on Higher Education

Region V (Bicol)
Polangui Community College
Polangui, Albay

Subject: Clothing Construction

Module: 2 (Basic Hand Stitches, Seams and True Bias)
Lesson: 1-3 (9 Hours Credit/Weeks 4-6)

LEARNING OUTCOMES
At the end of this module, you are expected to,
a. Perform temporary and permanent hand stitches,
b. Make a cloth sample of the different seams and seams finishes,
c. Identify the uses of the true bias and the different facing and binding.

INTRODUCTION
In this lesson you will learn the proper way of stitching, temporary and permanent
stitching. You will also make a cloth sample of the different seams and seams finishes. It is also
necessary to know the uses of true bias and the different facing and bindings. Please read the
materials in this module and be sure to follow the instruction of each activity so that you will
achieve your learning goals.

ELICITING CONCEPTS
Before you proceed into the learning content of this module, be familiarize yourself first
with the necessary words that you will encounter on entire lessons by getting the meaning of the
following words below.

1. Facing
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

2. Binding
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

3. Seams
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

4. True Bias
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.

5. Finishes
________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________.
 Learning Modality

Content
Lesson 1.
Basic hand stitches
- Perform temporary and
permanent hand stitches
Lesson 2.
Seams and seam finishes
- Make a cloth sample of the
different seams and seams
finishes
Lesson 3.
Preparation and uses of true
bias-facing and binding.
- Identify the uses of the true
bias and the different
facing and binding.
Synchronous
(via Google Meet)
Activity 1
PowerPoint presentation of the
different hand stitches in clothing
construction
Activity 1
Watch the video “Types of Seams
Finishes (Tutorial)
https://www.youtube
.com/results?search
_query=Types+of+
Seams+Finishes +%28Tutorial
%29
Activity 2
Discussion of the video above
Activity 1
Discussion of the preparation and
uses of true bias-facing and
binding.
-Explain the importance of using
true bias, facing and bindings.
Asynchronous
(Google Classroom/messenger
group chat/Printed Module)
Activity 1
Read appendix 1.1
(Basic Hand Stitches)
Activity 2
Make a scrap book of the
different Basic hand stiches that
you make (with documentation)
Refer to Appendix 1.2 for
Scoring Rubric.
Activity 1
Read appendix 2.1 (Seams and
seam finishes)
Activity 2
Make a scrap book of a
compilation of the different
types of seams and seams
finishes that you created. (with
documentation) Refer to
Appendix 2.2 for Scoring
Rubric.
Activity 1
Read appendix 3.1 (Preparation
and uses of true bias-facing and
binding)
Activity 1
Collect a pictures of different
kinds of facing and binding
from the clothes of your family.
Paste it on bond paper and label
it. Refer to Appendix 3.2 for
Scoring Rubric.

Assessment
Answer the following Questions.
1. What are the differences of Constructive stitches and decorative stitches?
2. What is the importance of Temporary Stitches?
3. State the difference between Seams and Seam finishes.
4. What is seam allowance?
5. Why are seams finished?
6. What are the factors that influence the selection of a seam finish?
7. What is true bias?
8. State the difference between facings and bindings.
9. What is shaped facing?
10. What precaution should be taken while binding inward and outward curves?

References:
XI-C.G.D.M. Clothing Construction. Pgs. 42-69

YouTube: Types of Seams Finishes (Tutorial)

https://www.youtube.com/results?search _query=Types+of+Seams+Finishes +%28Tutorial%2
Module 2
Appendix 1.1

Basic hand stitches

INTRODUCTION: The knowledge of various type of stitches is necessary for the beginners before
starting to sew on the original garment. It is better to practice these stitches on a small piece of fabric
prior to stitching on the original garment. Keep the hands clean before stitching, so that the new clothes
will not soil. Sit in a comfortable position while sewing and make sure the room is well illuminated.
Basic stitches are divided into constructive and decorative stitches. Constructive stitches are further
divided into temporary and permanent stitches.

Classification of Basic hand stitches

Basic hand stitches

Constructive stitches Decorative stitches

Temporary stitches Permanent stitches

1)Even basting 1) Running Stitch

2) Back stitch
2)Uneven basting 3) Run and back stitch
4) Hemming
3)Diagonal basting
5) Slip stitching
4)Slip basting 6) Overcasting
7) Overhand stitch
8) Whipstitch

TEMPORARY STITCHES:

Tacking or basting is a temporary stitch used for holding two or more layers of fabric together
during fitting or before working the permanent machine stitches. Usually the stitch is worked from right
to left. This is the only stitch which is started with a knot and is worked in white or light-coloured thread
that contrasts with the fabric so that it can be easily noticed and removed once the permanent stitch is
worked. Dark thread can leave marks on a light-coloured fabric. The length of the stitches will vary
depending on the weight of the fabric and how securely the pieces have to be held together. To end
basting, make two stitches one on top of another. There are several types of basting stitches, four of which
are explained below:-

1. Even basting 2. Uneven basting 3. Diagonal basting 4. Slip basting 1. Even basting : Use fine
needle and start the stitch with a knot. The stitches are
 of equal length about ¼” on both sides of the material.
A number of longer stitches can be worked at a time.
This is used on smooth fabrics and in areas that require
close control, such as curved seams, seams with ease
and set-in sleeves.

2. Uneven basting: In this, the stitches on the upper

side are ½” or at least twice that on the under side
(¼ ”). This stitch can be used for longer folds and
seams. Use this type of tacking as a guideline or
where there is little or no strain.

3. Diagonal basting: This consists of horizontal stitches taken parallel

to each other and producing diagonal floats in between. It is used to
hold or control fabric layers within an area during construction and
pressing. Short stitches, taken close together, give more control
than do longer stitches taken far apart. The short diagonal basting is
used to hold seam edges flat during stitching or pressing. The long
diagonal basting is worked to hold underlining to garment fabric
during construction.

4. Slip basting: is a temporary uneven

slipstitch that permits precise
matching of

plaids, stripes, and some large prints at

seamlines. It is also a practical way to
baste intricately curved sections, or to
make fitting adjustments from right side.
Crease and turn under one edge along its
seamline. With right sides up, lay the folded edge in position along the seamline of the corresponding
garment piece, matching the fabric design; pin. Working from right to left and using stitches 1/4 ” in length
, take a stitch through the lower garment section, then take the next stitch through fold of upper edge.
Continue to alternate stitches in this way, removing pins as you go.

PERMANENT STITCHES:

1. These stitches are made permanent on the garment and need not be removed later like temporary
stitches. They are worked using matching thread and the stitching line starts and ends with a back
stitch. Some of permanent stitches are 1. Running stitch 2. Back stitch 3. Run and back stitch 4.
Hemming stitch 5. Slip stitching 6. Overcasting 7.Overhand stitch and 8. Whipstitch. 1.
Running Stitch: This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for permanent sewing.
This stitch is worked using same colour thread. Handmade seams, tucks, mending, shirring,
quilting, gathering and finishing edges
can be done with this stitch. It is similar
to even basting, but the stitches are much
smaller, straight, fine and evenly spaced.
 The length of the stitches vary from 1/16 to 1/8 inch in length. Pass the needle through the fabric
several times before pulling it through. It is comparatively easy and can be worked fast.

2. Back stitch: This stitch is strong and sometimes substituted for machine stitch. It takes much time.
Care must be taken while stitching, since
stitching is done on the right side of the fabric.
On the wrong side of the fabric the stitch is
similar to stem stitch. Stitches should be about
1/8” long on the right side. To make the back
stitch, push needle up through the material at a
point on the stitching line about 1/8” from its
right end. Take a stitch inserting the needle
1/8” back of the thread at the beginning of the stitching line and bringing it out an equal distance in
the front of the thread. Repeat this way, keeping stitches uniform in size and fairly firm.

3. Run and back or Combination stitch: This stitch is a combination of a back stitch and three to four
running stitches. This is used where back stitch is not compulsory and is used for working plain seam
done by hand. This stitch is faster than the back stitch and stronger than the running stitch.

4. Hemming stitch: This is used to hold the in place the bottom fold of the garment usually known as
the hem. Hemming must be fine, evenly spaced and must
be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment. Start
the hem with a tiny back stitch and finish with the same.
Hemming must be as invisible as possible on the right side
of the garment. Work slanting stitch or vertical stitch on
wrong side, close enough to hold the hem securely,
picking one or two yarns of the fabric. Usually this stitch is
seen in all types of garments. Slant hemming stitch is
quick to work, but is least durable because of the long
thread floats which are subjected to abrasion. Whereas
vertical hemming stitch is durable and stable stitch best
suited for hems whose edges are finished with woven edge
or stretchlace seam tape. Very little thread is exposed, reducing the risk of fraying and breaking.

5) Slip stitching: This is a nearly invisible

stitch formed by slipping the thread
under a fold of the fabric. It can be
worked to secure hems and facings. It
is also used to attach patch pockets,
trims, coat and jacket linings. Fasten
the thread beneath the hem, bringing
the needle out through the edge of the
fold. Take a tiny stitch in the garment
directly beneath the point where the thread leaves the fold. Now insert the needle in the hem, slip it
along inside the fold and bring it out again about 1/2 inch away. Repeat the stitch.

6) Overcasting: This is the customary

hand stitch for finishing the raw
edges of fabric to prevent them from
ravelling. In general, the more the
fabric ravels , the deeper and closer
the stitches should be worked. Take
diagonal stitches over the edge,
spacing them evenly apart at uniform
depth.
 7) Overhand stitch: These tiny, even
stitches are used to hold together two
finished edges, as, for example, when
attaching lace edgings or ribbon to a
garment. Insert needle diagonally from
the back edge through to the front
edge, picking up only one or two
threads each time. The needle is
inserted directly behind thread from previous stitch and is brought out a stitch length away. Keep the
stitches uniform in their size and spacing.

8) Whipstitch: This is a variation of the

overhand stitch, the main difference
being the angle at which the needle
is held. Though generally used to
join two finished edges, it can also
hold a raw edge neatly against a flat
surface. Insert needle at right angle
and close to the edge, picking up
only a few threads. Slanted floats will be produced between the tiny stitches. Space between stitches
can be short or long, depending on the circumstances.

DECORATIVE STITCHES:

Decorative stitches are conspicuous stitches which are worked on the right side with matching or
contrasting coloured thread. Embroidery is one of the decorative stitches. Embroidery is the art of
working ornamental designs on cloth, leathers, etc., with decorative stitches. Some of the decorative
stitches are stem stitch, chain stitch, herringbone stitch, French knot, bullion knot, spider stitch etc. For
successful embroidery work, it is essential to learn the basic stitches, acquire the ability to choose the
right type of stitches, designs, colour combinations suited to the type of fabric, the purpose and use the
garment or article on which the embroidery is to be made.
 Module 2
Appendix 1.2

Rubrics for Basic Hand Stitches

0-1 Quality 2-3 Quality 4-5 Quality Overall Score

Knot One of both knots Knots are tied off Both knots are
(Beginning/End) are not tied off correctly, but not secured and have
correctly and will secured. Knots are been tied off
not hold the stitch in too large and are correctly. Knots
place. distracting to the are place in the
product. correct location
and are not
distracting to the
product

Stitch Stitches are crooked, Some stitches are Stitches are

Length/Consistenc uneven, and not straight and overall straight. Length
y consistence is size or length is good, but of stitch is overall
length. Stitch would stitches are not consistent and is
not hold two pieces consistently the no larger than ¼
of fabric together. same length. cm.

Overall Quality of Stitch quality needs Stitches are of Stitches are pulled
Stitch to improve. Stitches good quality, but tight, even and
are uneven and will could be improved. overall quality is
not hold fabric good. Each stitch
together. Stitches are looks similar to
uneven, not correct the next, and will
stitch, and loose. stay in place to
keep product
together.
 Module 2
Appendix 2.1

Seams and Seam Finishes

Seams
Seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of
material together by a row of stitching. In garment
construction, one of the major steps is the joining of different
sections by seams. The purpose of most of these seams is
purely functional and we call them constructional seams.
(Example: shoulder seam, side seam, under arm seam,
waistline seam etc.)These should be as inconspicuous as
possible. However there are some seams which are used for
decorative purposes; these are made conspicuous in order to
give the garment design and line (example: piped seam, slot
seam). The stitching line along the seam is called the seam
line. The seam allowance (SA) is the space between the fabric
edge and the seam line.

Standards of a Seam
A well-constructed seam should be:
• Smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside. (Properly adjust machine tension,
stitch length, and presser foot pressure to suit the fabric and thread. Make sure fabric does not
pucker.) • Even in width throughout.
• Pressed open or closed according to the type of seam and how it is used in the construction
process.
• If stitched with thread, the thread should be appropriate to the fabric type and fiber content.
(Thread color should match or be slightly darker.)

Types of Seams
The commonly used seams are:
(1)Plain seam (finished or unfinished)
(2) Top stitched seam
(3) Flat fell seam
(4) French seam
(5) Mantua maker's seam and
(6) Piped seam.
Seams can be classified as follows:

Seams

Flat seams Ridge seams

Plain seam
French seam
Top stitched sea ms
Flat fell seam Mantua maker's seam
Piped seam

Seams

Conspicuous Inconspicuous
seams seams
Plain seam
Top stitched seams
French seams
Flat fell seam
Mantua maker's seam
Piped seam

Seams may be classified into flat seams and ridge seams. Plain seam and flat fell seam are
examples of flat seams. Ridge seams include the French seam and Mantua maker's seam. Seams may also
be divided into conspicuous and inconspicuous seam. Conspicuous seams are visible on the right side of
the garment. When inconspicuous seams like plain seam and French seam are finished no stitches will be
visible on the right side of the fabric.

Factors influencing the Choice of Seams

The type of seam to be used on a garment will depend on various factors. The most important
ones are listed below, with examples illustrating their roles in the choice of the seam to be used.
(1)Texture and durability of the fabric: When working with a heavy fabric, for example, you
should avoid bulky seams like French seam.
(2) Design and use of the garment: When making a boys’ sports shirt, a strong seam like flat fell
seam should be used.
(3)Shape of the seam: Seams maybe straight or curved. Straight seams may be in vertical,
horizontal or slanting directions on the dress. When joining curved edges, plain seam will give a better
finish than French seam or any other types of seams.
(4)Location of the seam in the garment: Seams in parts of the garment which may get stretched
during body movement will have to be made more durable than others.
(5)Sewing Machine: The choice of seam may depend on the type of attachments a sewing
machine has. If one has a serge or zig-zag machine one has more choice than a simple straight stitch
machine.
 (6)Current fashion: The modern trend determines which seam is to be used. Some prefer simple
seam that produces a graceful and well-fitting garment.

TYPES OF COMMONLY USED SEAMS:

Plain seam (Fig. A): A plain seam is joining two pieces of
fabric face-to face by a row of machine through both pieces
that leaves the seam allowance raw. It is also called as single
needle butterfly stitch as once the seam is made the seam
allowance are pressed open to either side of the seam line to
look like a butterfly. This is the most widely used seam
because it is easy to make, requires less time and is pliable
and inconspicuous. It is used on all types of fabrics except on
very transparent kinds, and is especially suitable for firm
fabrics that do not ravel and will not be subjected to hard and
frequent laundering.
On skirts, coats, petticoats, blouses etc. plain seam is used especially for side seams, under arm seams and
armhole seams. Various methods of finishing the raw edges of a plain seam are pinked finish, edge
stitched finish, double stitch finish, overcast finish etc.

Top stitched seam (Fig. B-F): Top stitching is a sewing

technique where the line of stitching is seen on the right side
of the garment. Top stitching adds strength and decoration to
the seam. It can also be used to attach details like pockets.
The five top stitched seams are: Single top stitching, Double
top stitching, Welt seam /Mock flat fell seam, Lapped
seam/Tucked seam and Slot seam

Single top stitching (Fig.B): Stitch a plain seam, press the seam edges to one side and work a row of
machining close to the seam line on the right side catching the seam allowances.

Double top stitching: (Fig. C)In this, two extra lines of stitching is
done on the right side of the garment, one on either side of the seam
line, after the seam allowances are pressed open.

Welt seam /Mock flat fell seam (Fig. D):

A flat inside seam, graded and pressed to
one side; the larger seam allowance being
topstitched to the garment thereby
enclosing the smaller seam allowance. It is used on heavy coats, sportswear,
yokes etc. to reduce bulk on the inside of the garment.
Stitch a plain seam and trim one raw edge to about 1/4 inch width. Press the
two raw edges to one side with the narrow one enclosed under the wider one.
Now stitch on the right side so that the stitching will come just outside the narrow seam edge, but inside
the wider seam edge.

Lapped seam/Tucked seam (Fig. E) The lapped seam is a very

strong smooth seam which lies perfectly flat and is commonly
used for joining a gathered section to a straight edge as in a
yoke. When the lap is wide, giving the effect of a tuck, it is
known as a Tucked seam.
Take a part of a garment which is to be laid on top and turn its
seam allowance to wrong side. Place this piece on top of the
second piece, right side facing and matching the fold to the
seam line accurately. Tack in position and machine close to the
folded edge.
Slot seam (Fig. F): A seam with a decorative slit
formed by bringing two folds together and stitching
them onto an underlying piece. It is a variation of
lapped seam and is often used down the centre front
or center back of skirt, coats and dresses primarily
for decoration or to add length to the garment. Sometimes it is combined with an inverted pleat. Cut a
strip of fabric of the same length as the seam itself and having width more
than twice the width of the seam allowance. Work a row of tacking down the center of the strip. Take the
two parts of the garment to be seamed and fold their seam allowances to the wrong side. Now, with right
side up, place the folded edges over the strip so that the folds fall exactly on the tacked line of the strip.
Tack in position close to the folded edges and top stitch carefully along each side of the seam about ¼
inch from the center line. Finally remove all the tacking. The backing strip may be of the same fabric as
the garment or a contrasting colored fabric and may be cut on the bias.

Flat fell seam / Run and fell seam: A flat felled seam is basically made by overlapping or interlocking
one seam allowance with the other and top-stitching them together onto the garment with two parallel
rows of stitches. This is a flat durable seam used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes, children’s clothes
and pyjamas. However it is time consuming, and is
difficult to make on curved edges and on bulky
fabrics.
Place the pieces to be joined wrong side facing, and
stitch on the seam line. Press both seam allowances
together in the same direction and trim the under
seam allowance to 1/8 inch and the upper one to
3
/8 inch (Fig. A).
Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance
so as to make a smooth fold
¼ inch wide. Keeping this fold in position, tack the
fold down flat to the garment, Machine stitch close
to the folded edge on the right side of the garment
(Fig.B) The right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching and wrong side will show only one row
of stitching.

Hemmed flat fell seam: is made in a similar manner, but the first
row of stitching for making the plain seam is done on the wrong side
of the garment and the last stitching is done by hemming instead of
machining.

French seam: A seam in which the raw edges of the cloth are
completely covered by sewing them together, first on the right side,
then on the wrong. This is a ridge seam and is used on transparent and
light weight and sheer fabrics. Especially on baby clothes and delicate blouses. It gives a neat and durable
finish, as the raw edges are completely enclosed. However it is
time consuming, and too bulky when used on thick materials.
Do not use this seam on curves such as armholes and yokes.
The two pieces
of materials to
be joined are
placed
together with
wrong side
facing. Work a
row of stitching 1/8 inch outside the seam line towards the
raw edges. After stitching, trim the seam allowances to
less than 1/8 inch (Fig. A)
Press the seam and turn the work so that the right sides are together. Crease the first row of stitching so
that it is directly on the edge. Pin or tack and stitch along the seam line about 1/8 inch from the fold (Fig.
B). In this seam, care should be taken to see that there are no ravels visible on the right side.

Mantua maker’s seam: This is also a ridge seam which is not suitable for bulky fabrics. It can be used to
attach lace in the form of a frill or flounce on sheer fabrics.
Keeping right sides facing, tack the garment on the seam line. Trim one seam edge to 1/8 inch from the
tacking line and the other seam edge to 3/8 inch. Make a 1/8 inch turning on the wide edge so that this edge
nearly touches the narrow seam allowance (Fig .A)
Now make a second fold to make the folded edge line
along the original tacking line. Machine stitch or hem
through all thicknesses and remove tacking (Fig. B).
Piped /Corded seam: Sometimes a piping or bias binding is inserted in a plain seam
to give a decorative finish to the garment. This type of seam is very often used in
collars, cuffs, pockets and at the waist line and yoke line of dresses. If a cord is
enclosed in the bias strip, the seam is called corded seam.
Prepare the bias strip, fold it in the middle and tack it to the right side of the pieces to
be seamed in such a way that the bias fold extends 1/8 inch inside the seam line. Place
the second piece on top of the first piece (right sides facing) with the bias lying in
between, and stitch along the seam line. When the seam is turned to the right side, the
piping or binding will extend between the two pieces of material. To be most affective
the bias material should be of a contrasting color.

Counter seam: This seam is suitable for heavy materials. In this seam both the raw
edges are enclosed by both the seam allowances along the seam line.

Turn under the seam allowance of one fabric piece to the wrong side and the other to the right
side. Press
Place the wrong side of the first piece of fabric on the right side of the second piece along the edges,
keeping the seam allowances. Pin in place. Stitch along the folded edge.

Hairline seam: This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly used for collars and other enclosed areas.
The seam allowances are not visible from the outside as it gets enclosed.
Make a plain seam using a very tight straight
stitch, with the fabrics right side together.
Trim away very close to the stitching line.
Press the seam. Turn right side out. You can
make a top stitch to secure the seam.

Serged seam: For this seam

a Serge or Overlock
machine is used wherein a
serge stitch is used instead
of plain seam. The seam allowance is trimmed by the machine. This seam gives stretch
and flexibility to the seam.
This seam can be used under following condition:
• If it is not important that seams are kept flat or open.
• On light weight fabrics.
• For loose garment.
• For the sewing knitted garments.
Place right sides of the fabrics together matching the stitching lines. Keep the fabric
under the needle. The serge will automatically trim the seam allowance and enclose
the fabric edges in a thread.
A 3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a 4 thread serged seam will give strength to the
seam. A 3 thread serged seam is often used for knit fabrics for its stretching property.
Flat or Abutted seam: Two pieces of fabric are joined edge-to-edge with no overlap and sewn with hand
or machine stitching that encloses the raw edges. This is used when joining seams where you do not want
any bulk. For example when sewing lingerie.

SEAM FINISHES
A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of seam allowance of a plain seam, by
sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them with binding.
Seam finishes are made to prevent fraying of the raw edges and thus make the seam more durable. It
makes the inside of the garment look neat, clean and professional as the outside. Knowledge of the seam
finishes will enhance the look of sewn garment.

Standards of Seam finish

A good seam finish should have the following qualities:
• Neat, even stitches
• Smooth ,without puckers
• Protect the area and prevent the edge from raveling, stretching, rolling, or curling.
• Does not add too much bulk to the seam allowance
• Imprint of seam finish does not show on the right side of the garment
• Appropriate for the fabric and intended use of the garment

Selection of Seam finishes

When choosing a seam finish, consider the following:
(1)Bulk and weight of fabric and bulk of seam finish: If the fabric is bulky do not choose a bulky seam
finish. For lightweight fabric, a bulky finish will affect the hand/drape of the garment. Finishes that
control excessive raveling are generally bulky.
(2)Tendency of fabric to ravel: Woven fabrics ravel as compared to knit fabrics. Tightly woven fabrics
do not tend to ravel. Some knit fabrics tend to curl or roll along the cut edge. A seam finish is needed to
control the curling.
(3)Ability of the finish to control raveling: Pinked finish controls a limited amount of raveling. Bound
seam finish controls almost any raveling.
(4)Finished appearance of the garment: Choice of a seam finish that will not be visible on the outside
of the garment or affect the hang/drape of the garment is important. For unlined jackets-that is worn open
in front choose a seam finish that will enhance the inside appearance of the jacket, as many times the
inside of this type of jacket may be seen.
(5)Strength and type of seam: Crotch seam on a pair of pants take more strain than side seam. It is
advantageous to secure the crotch seam with finish that will strengthen the seam as well as prevent
fraying.
(6)Use or purpose of garment: Garments worn and laundered frequently such as children’s play clothes
may need a more secure finish than a garment that is worn and laundered less frequently.
(7)Care of the garment: The amount of wear it will receive. Machine-laundered garments on a normal
setting will have more abrasion and a greater tendency to ravel than garments laundered on a gentle cycle
for a short period of time or drycleaned.
(7)Equipment: Some sewing machines are capable of sewing a zigzag stitch.
TYPES OF COMMONLY USED SEAM FINISHES:
Pinked finish (Fig. A): This seam finish is made using
Pinking shears, a particular type of scissors that gives a
zigzag pattern on the cut edge. This is a quick method and
is not bulky but is not a suitable finish for fabrics that
ravel badly. After stitching a plain seam, trim off about 1/8
inch of the seam allowance using the pinking shears, than
press the seam open.

Edge stitched finish (Fig. B): The seam is stitched and

pressed open. Then turn under ¼ inch on each seam edge
and top stitch close to the fold without catching the
garment. This finish is used on unlined coats and jackets
where a wide seam allowance is available. This is a bulky
finish and is not suitable for deeply curved seams.

Double stitch finish (Fig. C): After making a plain seam,

work an extra line of stitching about ¼ inch from the raw
edge. This can be done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked
seam. This is not suitable for bulky fabrics.

Overcast finish (Fig. D): This is a common method used for

both thick and thin materials that fray easily. It is suitable for
narrow seams and also for seams that receive hard wear or extra
strain such as armholes and waist lines. After making the plain
seam, press the seam open and work overcasting stitches over
the raw edges of the two seam allowances separately. Avoid
tight stitches in order to prevent edges from puckering. On seam
of armholes or yokes, press the seam allowances to one side and
overcast the two edges together.
Note: Instead of overcasting blanket stitch or zigzag machining
can be done on the raw edges of the seam allowance.

Herring bone finished seam (Fig. E) This finish neatens the

raw edges and also holds down the turnings, making the
seam flat. This is suitable for heavy materials like flannel.
After pressing the seam open, herringbone stitches are
worked on the two raw edges, catching the garment.

Bound seam edge

finish (Fig. F): The
seam edges are bound by a bias strip of a thinner fabric to keep
the seam from fraying without adding bulk. For thin fabrics
seam allowances could be pressed together and bias binding
attached to it.

Self-bound fabric edge finish (Fig. G): This finish is best used for light weight fabrics and
sheer fabrics. This seam finish wraps one seam allowance over the other, thus enclosing the
raw edges. Keep the fabrics right sides together along the stitching line and make a plain
seam. Trim one of the seam allowances to 1/8″. Turn the other seam allowance edge over the
trimmed seam allowance. Now the smaller edge is enclosed in the fold of the other seam
allowance. Make a straight stitching line along the raw edge of the folded seam, parallel and
close to the seam stitching line.

Liquid seam finish (Fig. H): This is done with a liquid

which is a seam sealant, several liquid commercial
product marketed under brand names like Fray Check™,
etc. are available to use as a seam finish. It is great to use around buttonholes, on the corners of a collar,
etc. It is fast, relatively inexpensive, and easy to apply, it controls raveling and withstands several
launderings. It works best on light to medium-weight fabrics. The product may stiffen the fabric but
becomes softer after laundering or dry-cleaning. If used on crisp or stiff fabrics, it becomes scratchy,
irritates the skin and may damage underwear.

HINTS ON STITCHING AND FINISHING SEAMS

(1) When stitching a bias edge to a straight edge, work with the bias edge on top.
(2) When joining a plain edge and a gathered edge, stitch with the gathered side up exactly on the
gathering line.
(3) While joining two bias edges, stretch the seam slightly as
you stitch. Always stitch with the grain (from wider end to the
narrow end of the garment piece).
(4) When seams are to be crossed, press open the first seam
before you stitch a second seam across it.
(5) After stitching curved seam such as necklines and collars
clip seam edges towards stitching in order to make the seam
lie flat (Fig. A)

(6) While constructing garments, many seam (especially

enclosed seam as in a collar) have to be trimmed to reduce
bulk. Trimming (Fig. B) is the process of cutting away both
seam allowances to the same width.

(7) Sometimes it is
necessary to grade
seams especially where several layers of fabrics are joined
together. Grading means that the seam allowances are
trimmed to different widths (Fig. C). This is done in such a
way that when the seam allowances are all pressed to one
side, the widest one comes on top and hides those below,
which become progressively narrower.
(8) After stitching plain seams in a garment and while
making single top stitched seams and flat fell seams, the seam allowances should be pressed to the
proper direction as directed:
• When a plain side is joined to a fuller side, the allowances should be pressed so that the
plain side lies on top. So when joining blouse to sleeve, the seam allowance on the blouse
should be on the top side. Similarly after joining yoke to a gathered section, the seam should
be pressed so that the yoke seam edge lies on top.
• For side seams, the seam edges should be pressed to the back side.
• At centre front of garments, press the seam allowances to the left side for boys and right
side for girls.

MITRING
Bound corners have excess fabric which has to be mitered with a diagonal seam at the corner and taking
up the excess fabric in the seam. This method is used while joining borders for blankets or attaching
borders, braids or lace around saris, table cloth etc. The folded portion may be cut off to avoid bulk. A
different method is used when the border extends beyond the cloth and has to be folded back onto the
seam line. Two darts are taken, both tapering to the fold line.

Mitred Binding
Inner Mitred Corner

Outer Mitred Corner

Module 2
Appendix 2.2

Rubrics for Seams and Seams Finishes

0-1 Quality 2-3 Quality 4-5 Quality Overall

Score
Knot One of both knots are Knots are tied off Both knots are
(Beginning/End) not tied off correctly correctly, but not secured and have
and will not hold the secured. Knots are been tied off
stitch in place. too large and are correctly. Knots are
distracting to the place in the correct
product. location and are not
distracting to the
product
 Stitch Stitches are crooked, Some stitches are Stitches are straight.
Length/Consistenc uneven, and not straight and overall Length of stitch is
y consistence is size or length is good, but overall consistent
length. Stitch would stitches are not and is no larger than
not hold two pieces of consistently the same ¼ cm.
fabric together. length.

Overall Quality of Stitch quality needs Stitches are of good Stitches are pulled
Stitch to improve. Stitches quality, but could be tight, even and
are uneven and will improved. overall quality is
not hold fabric good. Each stitch
together. Stitches are looks similar to the
uneven, not correct next, and will stay in
stitch, and loose. place to keep
product together.

Module 2
Appendix 3.1

PREPARATION AND USES OF TRUE BIAS, FACING AND BINDING

TRUE BIAS
A true bias falls on a diagonal line halfway between two grain
lines-lengthwise and crosswise grains at an angles 45 0 (Fig. A). It has the
maximum elasticity or in other words it stretches more than any other
direction on cloth.

Uses of true bias:

True bias is used to finish raw edges. It is useful especially in
finishing curved edges such as necklines, sleeveless armholes and scallops.
A straight piece of material attached to a curve will look bulky and untidy.
The elasticity of bias permits it to stretch or contract and thus takes the shape of any curved edge giving it
a flat smooth finish. Bias strips can be applied as facings and bindings. In striped, checked or contrasting
colored material it gives a decorative finish when used as a binding or facing applied on the right side of
the garment. Bias is also used to finish raw edges of plain seams as well as seams which join collar to
neckline, cuffs to sleeves etc. Fabrics or bound buttons holes, piped seams and bias tubing are made using
bias strips. Bias tubing is useful for making small motifs as trimming for dresses and for preparing fabric
loops which can be used decoratively in the place of buttonholes.

Cutting bias strips

(Fig. A-A1): Fold the fabric diagonally so that the lengthwise
threads of the folded part fall parallel to the crosswise threads on the rest
of the material. This fold line will be a true bias. Using a gauge or ruler,
measure from the fold to the
desired width of bias strip
(usually 1 ¼″ to 1 ½″) and
draw parallel lines (Fig.A) Cut
strips along the marked lines.
The ends of each bias strip
have to be cut along the grain
line. To do this, pull out a
thread at each end and cut
along the line from which the thread was pulled out to ensure
that each strip is a true bias (Fig.A1). It is very essential that
the width of the bias strips are even all through its length, otherwise joining the strips would not only be
difficult but would not result in a smooth, straight strip. Never try to make the width equal after the strips
have been cut as it will continue to be irregular. If the grain lines cannot be clearly seen, mark the lines
with chalk first.

Joining bias strips

(Fig. B): Place the two strips to be joined right sides
facing and the edges of the cut ends coinciding. The strips will
now be at right angles to each other. Shift the top strip ¼″ (inch)
beyond the other so that the sharp points are the
ends of the strips project on either side as in Fig. B Stitch a ¼″
(inch) seam joining the points where the sides of the two strips
intersect (from A to
B in Fig. B). Press the seam open and trim the seam
projections showing on right side (Fig. C)

FACING
Facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric
edge.
Facing is used to provide a neat finish to the raw edges in a garment and to support the shape of
neckline, armholes, collars, etc. They are also used in other sewing like quilts and home décor items like
curtain hems. They can also be used as a decoration by applying it from the inside of a garment, along
with embroidery and other embellishments on it. The different types of facings are:
• Applied Facing
• Decorative Facing
• Extended Facing
• An all-in -one Facing

Applied facing: There are two types of applied facing: Shaped facing and Bias facing.

Shaped facings: are cut to match the outside shape of the piece to provide a
neat finish. Shaped facings are usually cut of the same fabric as the garment
and can be of any width you like. At times it can be made with light-weight
fabric or contrasting colored fabric as design element.
Applying shaped facing: The shaped facing is cut to the exact shape of
the garment edge to which it is to be applied. Usually it is cut on the
same grain as the section of the garment it faces. Shaped facing is often
used to finish square or ‘v’ necklines or scalloped edges. It is easier to
apply than bias facing and is less conspicuous. It is usually cut
separately for front and back.
After cutting join the front and back facing with plain seam (Fig. A),
trim the seam and press it open. Finish the outer edge of the facing by
turning up the edge and
stitching it as shown in the
figure. Carefully tack the facing to the garment section, right
side facing, and seam lines, centre lines and notches matching
(Fig. B) after this, trim, clip and grade seam edges as you did
for bias facing. Turn the facing to the
wrong side, under
stitch it to the seam and
hem or slip stitch the
folded edge of the
facing to the
garment. (Fig. C)

Bias Facings: Strips of fabric cut on true bias are applied to finish the
edge. The width of bias facing should not be more than ½ inch wide.
Facings are usually turned to the
inside of the garment and will not
show when the garment is worn.
Method of applying bias facing:
stay stitch edge of garment to be
faced. Cut bias strip of width equal
to finished width of facing plus
seam allowance (about ¼″) and long enough to face the entire edge.
Tack bias strip to edge of garment, right side facing beginning at a
seam. For inward curves to be faced the bias must be eased and for outward curves, it must be
stretched. (Easing means holding bias strip slightly loose at the seam line).
Stitch bias strip to the edge of the garment line with the bias on top (Fig. A) Trim the seam to ¼″, clip
at curves, great bulky seams and turn to wrong side. At this point you may under stitch the facing to
the seam. Turn under about ¼″ along the outer edge of the bias strip and tack onto the garment, making
sure that the facing is not visible on the right side of the garment.
Now hem or slip stitch the facing to the garment (Fig. B).
When finished, the bias facing should be about 3/8″wide. Fig. C
shows the finished appearance of the garment from the right side.

Decorative Facing: Sometimes facings are turned to the outside

(right side) of the garment for decorative effect. There are also two
types: Decorative Shaped facing and Decorative Bias facing.

Decorative shaped facings are applied the same way as inside facings, the only difference is it appears on
the right side of the garment and the edges can be decorative.

Applying decorative facing: Decorative shaped facings are applied

almost the same way as inside facing. But certain differences arise
because decorative facing is to appear on the right side of the garment.
Firstly the right side of the facing must be matched to the wrong side of
the garment as shown in Fig. B to ensure that it will be right side out
when finished. (Fig. C). Secondly if it is to be applied to the neckline, the
shoulder seam of the garment should be reversed just inside the outer
finished edge of the facing (Fig. A). This is to prevent the raw edges of
the shoulder seam from showing at the neckline. Unlike inside
facings, decorative facings are usually made with scallops, points or other designs along the outer edge
(Fig. B and C). Particular care should be taken to see that the right side and left side are symmetrical in
design and shape.

Decorative Bias facings can also be applied on the right side of the garment for decorative effects, but no
edges designs are possible with this facing because it cannot be made wide enough. The decorative effect
has to be obtained by the use of material in some harmonizing colour or with prints like checks, stripes,
dots etc. Extended Facing: When the edge to be faced is a straight line, the facing may be cut in one
piece with the garment section. Usually facing is applied separately.

An all-in -one facing: is used to finish the armhole and neckline of a garment together, all at once.

BINDING
A binding is a decorative
finish of varying width that encases an edge.
There are two basic types of binding:
Straight binding and Bias binding
On the edge to be bound, make a line of staystitching 1/8″
away from the cutting line.

Straight binding
A binding that is cut in strips along the grain of a piece of
fabric.
There are two types of Straight Bindings: Straight grain
binding and Cross grain binding
Straight grain binding is binding that is cut in strips along the grain of a piece of fabric parallel to the
selvedge. Straight grain binding that is cut along the length of the fabric is very stable and has almost no
“give”. To make straight grain binding, cut your fabric strips parallel from the selvedge.
Cross grain binding is also cut in strips along the grain but it is cut from selvedge to selvedge. Cross
grain binding has a little more flexibility. To make cross grain binding, cut your fabric strips
perpendicular to the selvedge.

Bias binding
A bias strip of material is used to enclose a raw edge. It is used to finish and
strengthen raw edges and to add a decorative trim to a garment. It shows both
on the right and wrong sides. It is used to finish necklines, armholes, sleeve
edges, front closings, collars, cuffs and seams. It can be adapted equally well
to straight, curved, gathered and irregular edges (like scallops). When
finished, bias binding should have uniform width (less than ¼ ″) and should
lie flat and smooth without any stitches showing on the right side of the
garment. Binding may be prepared or may be bought as commercial bias binding.
There are two types of Bias bindings:
Single binding
Double binding (or French binding)
Single bias binding: The bias strip is cut twice the finished width with seam allowance and stitched to the
raw edge.
Applying single bias binding (Fig. A): Cut a bias strip that is twice
the finished width plus two seam allowances. Tack the strip to the
garment right sides facing. Stitch the binding to the garment with
a plain seam. Trim the seam as wide as the finished binding.
Turn under 1/8 ″ to ¼″ on the outer edge of the bias and fold it over
the seam on the wrong side. Now hem the fold to the line of
stitching using hemming stitches. Remember that bindings are
handled in the opposite manner to facings at inward and
outward curves. For bindings, stretch the bias on inward curves and ease it on outward curves.

French binding: The bias strip is cut six times the finished width;
both the raw edges of the strip are folded and attached to the raw
edge of the garment. Applying French binding (Fig.B): French
binding or double binding is used on sheer fabrics. For this, you
must cut bias strip that is six times the desired finished width. Fold
the strip in half, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch raw edges
of binding to the garment on the right side and hem the folded edge
to stitching line on the wrong side.
While applying bias facing for inward curves to be faced, the bias
must be eased because the bias has to rest flat onto a wider curve
when folded back; and for outward curves it must be stretched.

Effect of Bindings on Straight & Curved Edges

 Module 2
Appendix 3.2

Criteria for the Picture collection of facing and binding.

Criteria Points
The student identify the Pictures of Facing and Binding correctly 20%
The student labeled the pictures of Facing and Binding correctly 20%
The output is presentable, attractable and informative. 20%
The information is complete and accurate 40%

Total Score 100%