COLLARS

What do you mean by collar?

- a band, strip, or chain worn around the neck: such as. a : a band that serves to finish or
decorate the neckline of a garment. b : a short necklace.

Classifying Collars
There are only two ways to classify a collar, and within these two classifications are three collar
types and many different styles.

1. Convertible collar
2. Non-Convertible collar

Convertible Collars
So, what is a convertible collar? A convertible collar is one that doesn’t conform to a neckline
shape, but reacts to it.

A convertible collar is one that doesn’t conform to a neckline shape, but reacts to it. This is
known as a convertible collar because it can be worn both opened or closed at the neck, hence
the word “convertible.”

Non-Convertible Collars
These collars mimic the shape of the neckline – they are actually designed flat, using the front
and back necklines of the bodice pattern pieces. Unfastening a non-convertible collar will keep
it sitting exactly in the same place. A good example of a non-convertible collar is a Peter Pan
collar

THE BASIC TYPES OF COLLARS

1. The roll collar: The roll collar is a stand collar that folds over. This is the type of
collar on most business shirts.
2. The flat collar: Many different styles of collar fall into this bracket but whatever
their shape, cut, or fabric might be, they lie flat against the main fabric of the shirt.
The peter pan collar is a good example of this.
3. The stand collar: This collar fits around the neckline and as the name suggests
stands up. 
Anatomy of a Collar
A collar can be broken down into four main elements
- Neckline edge
- Collar stand
- Collar edge
- Roll line

Neckline edge
- This is the most important measurement when thinking about adding a collar because it
is where the collar attaches to the neckline of a garment.

Collar stand
- This is the amount that the collar “stands up by”. A collar stand can be separated from
the collar, part of the collar itself, or a collar style in its own right. If the collar is stand is
separate, the height if the stand is the distance between the neckline edge and the

Collar edge
- This refer to the edge of the collar. It is the most “designed” part. You can shape it in
many different ways, and it will affect the overall design of the garment. Collar edges
can be curved like a Peter Pan collar, or square like a sailor collar.

Roll line
- It is the area that “rolls” over on the collar. It can be visible or invisible join line between
the collar and the stand, that takes the collar from facing and framing the neck to falling
away from the neck.
Collar features
Some of these only come into play when designing and constructing more complex collars while
others are integral for all collars:

Break line
– when creating a jacket or coat with
a collar and lapel, there will be what
is called a break line. This is not a
stitched line, nor is it marked out
visibly in any way on a garment. It is
the line of the fold created when
your jacket is buttoned and the collar
is in position.

Lapel
- A lapel is also referred to by some as a “rever.” The lapel is actually the facing of a
garment, turned over to reveal itself. Some designers use a contrasting facing fabric so
that when the lapel is folded over, it becomes a design feature.
- A lapel can be constructed as part of an extended facing or cut and sewn separately.

Gorge line
- This is the seam line which connects the collar to the lapel. You see it more often and
clearly in tailored jackets, with different collar styles.
Break point
- Break point is the term used to describe the point at which the lapel folds over from the
edge

Top collar
- Any collar constructed well will have a top and bottom collar, except those few collar
styles that are created with one layer of fabric. The top collar is usually cut 2 millimeters
larger that the under collar, depending on the fabric choice, sothat when they are
stitched together, the top collar rolls under slightly, hiding the stitch line.

Under collar
 - Also called bottom collar in commercial patterns, is the facing of the top collar. You can
have the under collar be the same fabric or it can be a cut from alternative fabric but it
must always be the same fabric weight.

THE TYPES OF COLLARS

Collar styles vary in size, cut, placement, fullness and tradition. Some basic styles are timeless
and well known. Collars are made to frame the neckline and complement the face.

BERTHA COLLAR
This is a large, round collar that lies flat. The collar fits a low v-neckline and can be square or
round and is often made of lace or netting fabric. Bertha collars are most commonly found in
period dress costumes.
BIB COLLAR (DICKIE)
This is a false collar that can be stitched into the low-cut front of a garment. It can be
detachable or permanent
BOW TIE COLLAR
A bow collar has long pieces to tie as a bow. Large bows are referred to as a ‘Pussycat bow
CASCADE COLLAR
The cascade collar is cut from a circle of fabric and attached so it drapes from the center front
of the neckline. It looks best in soft flowing fabrics such as chiffon or silk.

CHELSEA COLLAR
The Chelsea is a medium to wide cut collar. The ends are squared off at the tips and it is
attached to a v neckline.
COWL COLLAR
A large portion of fabric folds over from the neck to create a cowl style of collar. It folds over on
itself and drapes around the neck. Suitable for soft draping fabrics.

CREW COLLAR
The crew is a short standing collar that is attached all around the neckline. Sometimes made in
rib trim it is more of a neck trim than a collar
DETACHABLE COLLAR
The Peter Pan collar and some other flat collars are situated to being made detachable. They
may be tied or buttoned onto the neckline for added effect. You often see these in faux fur on
winter jackets.

JABOT COLLAR
Lacy ruffles fall down from the neckline onto the chest forming a decorative frill in the front of
the shirt or blouse.
JOHNNY COLLAR
A small high standing collar. It is always attached to a v neck. The collar does not go to the end
of the v of the neckline.

MANDARIN COLLAR
A stand-up style of collar adapted from the Chinese mandarin traditional collar. There is a slit in
the front of the collar with curved edges.
NOTCHED COLLAR
The design is based on the lapel collar shape and is usually attached to blazers and shirt
blouses. The collar has squared tips and a triangular notch as part of the design. Usually made
in two pieces with a collar part round the neck and the other part of the collar being part of the
blouse or blazer turned outwards completing the notched look.

PETER PAN COLLAR

A very common rolled collar that lies flat on the neck and has curved edges. It is a small delicate
collar. The Puritan collar is a wider version of the Peter Pan collar.
POINTED FLAT COLLAR
This collar is a narrow cut collar with squared ends at the center front of the collar dropping
from a round neckline.

POLO NECK COLLAR

A shorter version of the turtle neck collar which is a stand up collar often made of a rib fabric.
RUFFLE COLLAR (RUFF)
A gathered or pleated piece of fabric forms the ruff round the neckline. Sometimes called the
millstone collar. It was popular in the Renaissance era and in the 17th and century. Modern
versions of the ruffle collar tend to have smaller heights often of just 1 inch (2.5cm)

SAILOR COLLAR
A flat collar based on one of the sailors’ uniforms. This style was made popular in the Victorian
era for children. It is made of square panels that fold down from the neckline.
SHAWL COLLAR
A turned down collar with a wide lapel. It gives the appearance of wrapping around like a
shawl.

SHIRT COLLAR
The basic stand collar worn on a man’s or a woman’s shirt style. The shirt collar may button
down or stand up more according to the style. The points of the shirt collar can be longer, but
generally the shirt collar is a very standard collar.
TURTLE NECK COLLAR
The turtle neck is a stand up collar and the height of the stand up may vary. The collar may roll
down or bunch up under the neck

WINGED OR WHISK COLLAR

Stiff band collar standing up with tips that fold over forming the wing tip effect.