Master of Fashion Technology

© 2009 2
© 2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 3
 Yarn Twist 18

Ю Yarns are made by twisting together

parallel or nearly parallel fibres.
Ю TPI – Turns or Twists per inch
Ю TPI -- affects durability and
appearance

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 4
 Yarn Twist 18

Soft Twist Hard Twist Low Twist

2 – 12 TPI 20 – 30 TPI ½ - 1 TPI
Softer, fluffier Smoother, Filament yarns.
and more stronger, and
flexible firmer

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 5
 Do Not Copy 18

Do Not Copy

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 6
 Direction of Twist 18
Ю Fibers can be twisted
together in the
clockwise or counter
clockwise direction to
form yarns

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 7
 18
Do Not Copy

Do Not Copy

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 8
 18

Do Not Copy

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 9
 Yarn Numbering System
18

Ю Different end
uses require
yarns of
different
thickness.

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 10
 Yarn Numbering System
18

Ю Measuring the diameter of a yarn is

not an easy task because not all yarns
have a circular cross section, and
some are easily deformed during
measuring.

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 11
 Yarn Numbering System
18

Ю The accepted way to indicate the

thickness of a yarn or of material from
other stages in yarn processing, is to
give the count or linear density.

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 12
 Yarn Numbering System
18
Ю Yarn numbering systems are used to
express a relationship between a unit
length and weights of yarns.
Ю The relationship between unit
length and weight also reflects the
diameter or thickness of a yarn.
©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 13
 Yarn Numbering System
18

Ю The textile industry has developed

different yarn production systems in
different localities and each of these
has chosen a different way of
expressing the count or linear density.

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 14
 Yarn Numbering System
18

Ю The linear density is expressed as

Θ Directly

Θ Indirectly

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 15
 18
Yarn Count

Direct Indirect

Length is Constant, Weight is Constant,

Weight is Variable Length is Variable
e.g. Tex e.g. English

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 16
 Direct Count System18
Ю The linear density is expressed
directly – mass per unit length
Θ Tex System

Θ Denier System

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 17
 Tex 18
Ю The Tex number is defined as the
weight in grams of one thousand
meters of the material

Weight in Grams

TEX = X 1000
Length in Meters

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 18
 Tex 18

1 10 30 40 50

1000 mtrs 1
or g
10
1 Km m 30 gm 40 gm 50 gm
gm

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 19
 Denier 18
Ю Denier is the weight in grams of
9000 meters of the material.

Weight in Grams

DENIER = X 9000
Length in Meters

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 20
 18

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 21
 Indirect Count System
18

Ю The count is expressed indirectly as

the length per unit mass
Θ Cotton Count

Θ Worsted Count

Θ Metric Count

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 22
 10
18
Session

Do Not Copy Do Not Copy

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 23
 English Count 18
Ю The English Count is defined as the
numbers of hanks of 840 yds in length
that weigh one pound in weight.

Length in Yards

COTTON = ÷ 840
Weight in Pound

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 24
 English Count 4
0 18
20

10

5 3
3
1 6
4200 0
840 yds 8400 0
yds yds 16800
yds y
d
s

1 lbs
each

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 25
 Worsted Count 18

Ю Worsted count is defined as the

number of hanks of 560 yards in length
that weigh one pound

Length in Yards

WORSTED = ÷ 560
Weight in Pound

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 26
 Metric Count 18

Ю The metric count is defined as the

number of kilometer lengths that
weigh one Kilogram

Length in Meters

METRIC =
Weight in 1 Gram

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 27
 18

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 28
 Indirect System 18

70 60 50 40 30 25 20 10 5 1

Direct System

1 5 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70

Finer Yarn Coarser Yarn

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 29
 18
Indirect System

Direct System

1 5 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 30
 Count Conversion 18

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 31
 Count Conversion 18

©2009 vasantkothari@gmail.com 32