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CONTENTS APRIL 2020 | VOLUME 188, NUMBER 4
FEATURES
8 Insider Insights: The Next Indie Generation &
Packaging Innovation
What’s new, what’s next.
10 Product Roundup
Packaging and ingredient innovation.
20 The Beauty 2020-2030 Forecast

What 2019’s results tell us about the next decade in beauty;
skin care, color cosmetics, fine fragrance, hair care and more.
20 7 Coronavirus Impacts
20 for Beauty
NPD Group’s assessment of sales
impacts and consumer behavior shifts.
70 36 Claims in the Indie Brand Era

Part 3 of a 4-part series: understanding the market dynamics
that drive beauty claims.
BY KAREN YARUSSI-KING
46 Beauty Gets Personal—Part 1 of 3: Skin Care

From devices to the microbiome, consumer curiosity and
purchase intent is on the rise.
BY DENISE HERICH
46 Formulating for the 55+

Consumer
54 An exclusive interview with L’Oréal.
54 The Beauty Experience

Part 1 of 3: The power of the five senses.
BY CHERIE BUZIAK
54 [video] CBD & Meadowfoam

Synergic, sensorial skin benefits.
58 Sustainable Packaging Decoded

Finding your path amid plastic, glass, paper, refillables and more.
BY ROBERT BULLA AND SHANNA JOHNS
70 5 Ways to Stay Competitive

How successful packaging and manufacturing partnerships
58 can lead to success.

BY LISA DOYLE
2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_TOC-Masthead_DM.indd 2 3/23/20 12:57 PM

GCI_full page ad.indd 1 12/19/19 5:13 PM
CONTENTS
46 EDITORIAL
Content Director Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
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News Editor Jessie Kern | 1-630-344-6070/jkern@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
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AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7557/customerservice@gcimagazine.com
DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry
Senior Graphic Designer Hon Bannapradist
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
CORPORATE
S1 Special Supplement— Partner & CEO George Fox
Packaging Innovation Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events
Supplement Digital Products Director
Maria Prior
Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
DEPARTMENTS
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
6 Spark: The New Abnormal Beauty Accelerate
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Allured Business Media
BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
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Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
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The latest regulatory insights.
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4 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_TOC-Masthead_DM.indd 4 3/23/20 12:57 PM

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SPARK | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
The New Abnormal
JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
Editor in Chief
jallured@allured.com
Have your flights been looking like this lately?

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
T
o steal a phrase from Body Shop founder Anita Roddick, everything in
2020 is business as unusual. ALISA MARIE BEYER
COVID-19 (the novel coronavirus) has had sudden and immense impact Spa Girl Cocktails
on the beauty industry, including show delays (World Perfumery Congress, MOLLY BROOKS
in-cosmetics Global, Cosmoprof Bologna, PCHi, etc.), store closures (Ulta Sephora Collection, North America
Beauty, Sephora, Glossier, etc.), site closings and work-from-home precautions,
supply chain disruptions, travel retail challenges, and much, much more. Most JESSICA ESTRADA
importantly, the disease has threatened the health and livelihoods of millions. Hue For Every Man
But where there are challenges, there are also opportunities. For instance, BRIDGETTE HOWARD
L’Oreal, e.l.f. and others have reported that e-commerce and home delivery is Parlor West Ventures
thriving, even in China, while hand sanitizers and soaps have become global must-
haves. At the same time, according to Euromonitor (Page 21), the crisis is putting
MICHAEL MALINSKY
WUNDER2
a greater emphasis on “healthy beauty” concepts that feature ingredients with
wellbeing benefits. FADI MOURAD
A recent Google search analysis from Spatea offers insights into future Innovation Counter
innovation opportunities that respond to consumer needs in this emerging global
health crisis:
ADA POLLA
Alchimie Forever,
• “How to wash your hands” searches have grown 78% since 2019 The Polla Beauty Group
• “Hand sanitizer” searches have grown 275% since 2019 (up 175% since January)
• Growth in searches in the United States for vitamins to boost immune systems ART RICH, Ph.D.
has exploded: elderberry, up 52.4% since 2019; vitamin C, up 25% since last A. Rich Development
year; echinacea, up 13.1% since last year; and zinc, up 7.7% since 2019. RICK RUFFOLO
R4 Innovations
While anxieties are certainly high, the beauty industry and global economy have
never had so many tools at their disposal to respond to the uncertainty. I have faith CRISTINA SAMUELS
in the industry’s creativity and nimbleness in even the most difficult circumstances. Mode Cosmetics
I hope you enjoy this month’s issue. And, most of all, I wish health and LAURA SETZFAND
happiness to you and your loved ones. Epiphany
a
www.spate.nyc
6 Spark Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_Spark_fcx.indd 6 3/19/20 7:58 AM

INSIDER INSIGHTS:
The Next Indie Generation | Packaging
Innovation
What’s next, what’s new.
Featured insiders…
Albéa
Amfora
Aptar Beauty + Home, North America
Neopac
Orchard Custom Beauty
Silgan
The Center
facebook.com/gcimagazine Global Cosmetic Industry @globalcosmeticindustry @GCI_Magazine
8 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2020 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w
GCI12004_Insider Insights_fcx.indd 8 3/19/20 3:01 PM

CREATING
THE NEXT GENERATION
OF INDIE BRANDS
Building the next next big things.
Today, many founders are raising significant money

pre-revenue, which has led to a generation of
founders starting out with significant outside capital
backing virtually from the start.
B
en Bennett, cofounder venture capital and private equity
of HatchBeauty, has groups, as well as outside money
created The Center, sources, has since resulted in nearly
an incubator and every significant profitable brand
accelerator designed being acquired. The sales of brands
to support and build like Tatcha and Drunk Elephant has
the next generation of thereby opened up room for a new
disruptive, transformative indie brands generation of brands to emerge and
in the beauty and wellness market. grow. And, because the inventory of
HatchBeauty was founded in 2010, proven indie brands is relatively low,
an early West Coast innovation hub there is a significant need to foster
that saw explosive growth during the new players—and appetite from
first big wave of indie players driven investors and strategic acquirers.
by consumer appetites for niche At the same time, first-wave indie
brands. Bennett notes that Sephora boom brands have grown up and are
brought many of these brands into its perhaps no longer the newest, coolest
stores and illustrated how well they things on the market—at least in the
could thrive in an open-sell format. eyes of millennial and Gen Z shoppers.
The success of these brands This “new establishment” has also Ben Bennett’s The Center is focused on indie’s
inevitably attracted investment and experienced extensive rounds of M&A, next generation.
buyers. The immense interest among rendering them no longer “indie.”
www.gcimagazine.com Insider Insights: The Next Indie Generation | Packaging Innovation 9
GCI12004_Insider Insights_DM.indd 9 3/23/20 10:06 AM

INSIDER INSIGHTS: THE NEXT INDIE GENERATION | PACKAGING INNOVATION
The Second Wave

The Center is poised to capture and
grow the “second wave” of emerging
niche and indie brands. Bennett
E-commerce platforms
explains that young consumers are
drawn to “anti-establishment” brands
have found it relatively easy
that are purpose-driven. At the same
time, there is an enormous amount
to merge the beauty and
of interest in beauty among private
equity and venture capital groups, as
wellness categories, though
well as money coming from outside this transition has taken much
the traditional investor communities.
Bennett describes this as an longer for brick and mortar.
“intriguing moment.”
The executive says he has been
approached by young brand founders
over the years to invest in their
businesses and help them grow. These Bennett. Gen X was largely taught to used to buying products anywhere
upstarts realize that an experienced bootstrap, scraping together money, that’s convenient to them and,
investor is a value-add. Therefore, maxing-out credit cards and growing therefore, the channel of distribution
Bennett built a shared services organically. Today, he says, many is less important to them (compared to
platform of skilled operators. He was founders are chasing the fairytale of the luxury channel).
also approached by private equity being the next Emily Weiss, raising At the same time, many people
groups wanting to develop a fund for significant money pre-revenue, which may feel that online shopping isn’t all
supporting brands. The willing money, has led to a generation of founders that convenient. It’s easy to abandon
the founder interest and the market starting out with significant outside carts, after all. Therefore direct-to-
opportunity coalesced into what capital backing virtually from the start. consumer initiatives are perhaps
became The Center. This simply couldn’t happen with slowing down a bit.
To date, The Center has invested in earlier waves of indies because of the Upstarts are also realizing that
four brands—clean makeup upstart pre-social media and VC track culture. spending vast sums on digital
Kosas, clean fragrance line Ellis However, says Bennett, the industry marketing to build awareness is not
Brooklyn, sustainable skin care brand doesn’t have a lot of historical data to the same as building long-term loyalty
Circumference and Five Suns Foods, determine the long-term viability of or profitability. That said, Bennett
which sells an Andean plant-based the upstart indie brand model. Brand explains brands need to build curiosity
protein called chocho. awareness can be alluring but no one and awareness in the digital space
knows for certain if those brands to get people to approach on shelf in
The New Indie Fairytale will be able to turn themselves into brick-and-mortar.
Entrepreneurs have evolved in their evergreen institutions. Do they have
approach to brand-building, says the ability to retain customers or be How to Build the Next
profitable? Bennett isn’t certain. Indie Wave
Today, he says, it doesn’t feel hard
Depending on the partnership, The
to acquire customers but it is hard to
Center is able to provide brands with
retain customers because of the vast
growth capital, operations assistance,
newness flooding the market and social
strategy, marketing and more.
media, creating shorter attention spans
“We don’t want to impose on what
among shoppers. This makes it harder
they’re doing well,” he says, but wants
to build brand loyalists, he adds.
to “be available to them when they
need help.”
Brick-and-Mortar: the New Some brand founders are clear on
Old Thing how they want to run their brand
Coronavirus challenges and build their teams, but also need
notwithstanding, 2020 could be the capital and want to know that The
Clean makeup upstart Kosas is among the four start of the return of brick-and-mortar Center is a call away for advice on
initial investments from The Center. retail, says Bennett. Consumers are legal issues, contract manufacturer
DM1 Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w

recommendations, new PR firms, etc., an unrealistic corner (like “clean”) particularly student debt. This
says Bennett. In this way, the company and instead focuses on sustainability, generation also experienced an ugly
acts as an adviser. the use of natural ingredients recession in 2008-2009, which may
Smaller brands may need more when possible and the omission of have attuned them to the wellness
hands-on help. The Center can, for unnecessary conventional materials, outlook. Coronavirus is bound to have a
instance, take certain projects off drawing from wellness narratives, and similar impact.
founders’ plates—including branding, generally thinking holistically rather At the same time, e-commerce
generation of creative assets for than focusing on a specific category. platforms have found it relatively easy
social media, regulatory compliance In addition, Bennett is focused to merge the beauty and wellness
or product development matters—so on founders that are passionate and categories, though this transition has
they can focus on their core business. who have a unique authenticity that taken much longer for brick-and-
Ultimately, the formula is different for communicates they believe in what mortar. Bennett says the traditional
every company. they’re building. Consumers, he says, rules maintained by large retailers,
are very in tune with being able to which focus on physical real estate
A Better-for-You Future identify if there is a heartbeat behind and breaking apart products by clear
On the investment and incubator side, the brand. category lines no longer works.
Bennett’s mission is to invest in and Sephora and Ulta have done this
create “better-for-you brands.” Because Blurry Lines Between by, for instance, pairing personal care
the terms “natural,” “clean” and even Beauty & Wellness and beauty alongside supplements.
“organic” can be so loosely defined as In this new paradigm, Bennett argues
What’s happening now is very
to be meaningless, the executive doesn’t that brands that have color cosmetics
different, says Bennett. The merging
approach the category as a “purist.” and skin care can now merchandise
of beauty and wellness in the last
“I don’t feel the need to build those SKUs side by side. Glossier
few years is not a fad and is in fact
purely organic brands because it may has illustrated this strategy with its
changing the way consumers are
not be realistic to how people live fragrance, color and skin care strategy.
thinking about categories.
In addition, natural deodorants from
today,” he says. This is largely driven by millennials
skin care brands like Kopari are
Instead, Bennett thinks about how who have a more complex outlook on
merchandised beside their skin care
people live in the middle of the United wellbeing than previous generations,
counterparts. The consumer sees these
States and thereby builds thoughtful and also face more challenges. They
as part of the same thing because, in
and considerate brands that are have to think about how they’re going
their view, skin is skin.
relevant for many people’s lives. The to take care of themselves, Bennett
better-for-you concept prevents the explains, and face significant anxiety
company from painting itself into issues around health and finances,
New Brand Launches Coming
The Center will continue to invest in
emerging brands, including several that
are currently being finalized. Bennett
has no defined goal for the number or
total amount of investments he wishes
to make. Instead, he’s focused on
finding the right opportunities aligned
with its mission.
On the incubator side of the business,
the organization has six brands in
development, which will launch in
2020. In 2021, the company will launch
two more. The initial launch from The
Center is Naturium, a clean-ical skin
care brand offering biocompatible
innovation that pairs natural materials
with safe synthetic actives within an
affordable range that retails for $16-25.
SKUs include Niacinamide Serum 12%
Plus Zinc 2%, Vitamin C Serum 22%,
Retinol Serum 2.5%, Plant Squalane
Naturium Skincare is among the first brands to launch from The Center. Face Oil 100%, Multi-Peptide Eye
www.gcimagazine.com Insider Insights: The Next Indie Generation | Packaging Innovation DM2

Cream, Retinol Cream 2.5%, Vitamin C jars, etc., which are being designed for support them, monomaterial designs
Super Serum Plus, Vitamin C Face Oil, differentiation. for improved recyclability, and a more
Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%, To address these changes, Albéa secure and robust PCR feedstock.
Mixed Greens Nutrient-Rich Cleanser founded the Innovative Beauty Group In addition, industry will need to
and Retinoid Face Oil. (IBG), which serves as the umbrella address aesthetic differences between
organization for its full-service brand/ PCR and virgin material. At the same
Indie & the Supply Chain product development services. The time, consumers will need to embrace
group focuses on the niche of the new beauty codes that provide leeway
During a presentation at Luxe Pack/
market, including retailers and brands. for variable PCR feedstock qualities.
MakeUp in LA 2020, Albéa executives
IBG is capable of developing full ranges And, of course, bio-based solutions
discussed its recent acquisition of
of SKUs and delivering technical are also of interest.
turnkey beauty house Orchard Custom
Beauty, its partnership with the Erpro
3D Factory to support personalized
cosmetic packaging solutions
composed of bio-based PA11 polyamide
and its sale of its dispensing solutions Bennett argues that brands
business to Silgan. All of these moves
point to a changing beauty industry. that have color cosmetics and
Albéa and its competitors are
responding to the quick change in color
skin care can now merchandise
cosmetics habits and the resulting
impacts on brands and suppliers. It is
those SKUs side by side.
also addressing the rise of skin care,
particularly lotions, as well as the
general fragmentation of the market in
the wake of new niches and abundant capabilities, design and creativity to That said, there is no magical
indie brand launches. brands seeking to stand out. solution, no single material that will
In this crowded market, indie brands Orchard Custom Beauty offers get the industry where it needs to be
can often plateau, topping out at turnkey, formulation, regulatory and in the next five years. Instead, a more
$50-60 million. The era of the Drunk quality assurance, creative services, holistic approach will be necessary—
Elephants with immense valuations merchandising assistance, custom and, indeed, is already underway.
may or may not be a thing of the past tooling, design and packaging, For example, chemical recycling
but it is certainly more challenging manufacturing, assembly, and breakthroughs could help improve
now to reach such scales. distribution and logistics services. feedstocks, presuming appropriate
As a result, the Albéa executives noted During the Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA partnerships among recyclers,
that the company is positioning itself to event, Orchard presented the Natural suppliers and customers can be forged.
work with a wider spectrum of brands, Bliss collection, featuring FSC-certified Different brands have different
delivering innovation and design. This paper, and intimate wellness products. priorities, of course, and all are
comes at a time when many direct-to- seeking the best message to deliver
consumer brands are expanding into Holistic Sustainability to the market. Scale matters here, as
physical retail (beauty and non-beauty do recycler business relationships,
Amid this differentiation wave,
retail) and as retailers reinvent category particularly with monomaterial designs
sustainability is a must. Like its
segmentations to capture growth. that feed the supply chain of tomorrow.
competitors, Albéa is focused on
replacing virgin materials with Brands will also need to address
Differentiation is the replenishable/renewable materials price differences for certain sustainable
New Fast and has signed the Ellen MacArthur solutions, which can present costs 15%
Albéa’s executives explained that Foundation’s New Plastics Economy greater than conventional counterparts.
the organization is moving past the Global Commitment, which features a Premiumization can help support
stock item focus of recent years that 2025 deadline. this gap, the Albéa executives argued.
was driven by speed. Today, they said, Making commitments a reality However, they added, progress is not
the beauty industry is moving away will require improved collection and perfect. Brands and suppliers must
from me-too concepts and toward recycling rates for beauty packaging. do what they can as quickly as they
a more strategic phase. This has led It will also require reusable designs can and thereby blaze a path toward a
to more personalization of lipsticks, and shifting consumer habits to more sustainable future for beauty. n

PACKAGING
INNOVATION
ROUNDUP
Recent launches present a view of a changing market.
New packaging launches show how the

needs of the market are shifting.

Optimizing E-commerce how can we make them more

Shipping Sustainably sustainable and how can we ensure
they fit the needs of omni-channel
Aptar Beauty + Home’s GS F6
distribution,” said Philippe Erhart,
actuator can now be paired with the
president, Beauty + Home, North
company’s reusable E-Clip, which locks
America. “While sustainability is at the
the actuator into place by clipping on
core of all internal and external aspects
to the neck of the pump. The GS pump
of our business, we’ve equally identified
features uplocking technology with a
the need of e-commerce-capable
left or right opening system, as well
product solutions for our customers
as a larger dosage of 1.2 cc or 2 cc for
and are listed as a member of Amazon’s
a multitude of viscosities. The E-Clip
APASS program to address these
prevents the actuator from breaking
as quickly as possible. We proudly
in transit and reduces the possibility
announce that in February [2020] we
of accidental opening and leakage,
opened our first on-site ISTA-6 testing
thereby improving the consumer
facility.”
experience and reducing returns and
complaints. The E-Clip is available in
100% PCR, decreasing the use of virgin PCR Dispensing
resin in the supply chain. Silgan’s P2000 PCR lock-up dispenser
Aptar’s twist-to-lock Disc Top is designed for viscous creams and
tonics, as well as hair care products Neopac’s DigitAll360° prints photorealistic graphics
Go features a three-part design for
and text on the entire surface of cylindrical containers
medium to thick viscosity products, and liquid soaps. The pump, which is and reportedly offers almost unlimited color palettes.
eliminating the need for overwrapping manufactured in Europe and North
or liners. Users twist the ring to the left America, features a Pure Path engine
to unlock the cap to dispense and twist for metal-free dispensing, as well oxidation, according to the company.
to the ring to lock the lid into place as various dispensing components A metal overshell is possible for the
for on-the-go use. The closure can be partially comprising PCR materials. The P2000, which features a total PCR
customized in a variety of colors. spring is in a dry chamber, preventing weight of 40%. The design closes/locks
Aptar’s e-commerce-capable contact with the product formulation in the up position.
technologies are in alignment with and eliminating contamination and Silgan’s Prelude PCR (total PCR
ISTA-6 testing protocol to help brands weight: 66%) dispenser for skin care,
avoid chargebacks, unnecessary liquid makeup and hair serum products
product returns and costly measures features a standard lock for extra
to ensure smooth store-to-door transit, security and portability and includes
according to the company. the metal-free Pure Path technology to
“Our locally produced dispensing prevent oxidation. According to Silgan,
innovations have two main focuses: Prelude PCR can also be paired with
formulas comprising SPF, silicone,
retinol and salicylic acid.
Manufactured globally, the dispenser
offers relative supply chain ease, per
Silgan. The design requires low force
to actuate and smooth delivery. It can
also be locked for greater portability.
Prelude PCR can be decorated with
metalization and hot stamping.
Travel-friendly Dispenser
Silgan’s Sinfonia Crème travel-
friendly dispenser is available
in a wide range of closure sizes,
Aptar’s twist-to-lock Disc Top Go features
a three-part design for medium to thick
finishes, actuators and overcaps.
viscosity products, eliminating the need for The customizable design is offered
Aptar’s E-Clip, paired with the GS F6 actuator. overwrapping or liners. in a range of dimensions, dispensing

angles and outputs; a solvent-resistant
version is available. The design is
appropriate for sun care, skin care,
hair care and makeup.
Flexible Printing System

At Luxepack New York, Neopac
is set to debut its direct-to-shape
Silgan’s Sinfonia Crème travel-friendly dispenser digital decoration service for tubes.
is available in a wide range of closure sizes, DigitAll360° delivers variable printing,
finishes, actuators and overcaps.
precision color matching, flexible batch
sizes and expedited delivery, per the
company. The system supports flexible
batch sizes, short lead times and
Neopac’s SpringTube for cosmetics expedited delivery. DigitAll360° prints
and personal care products was photorealistic graphics and text on the
developed by subsidiary 3D Neopac. entire surface of cylindrical containers
and reportedly offers almost unlimited
color palettes. The system can employ
up to 10 simultaneous colors and select
lacquers at up to 600 DPI resolution.
rs It can also support variable printing
.
for mosaic effects, promotions and
prototypes in different languages. It
also delivers a lower carbon footprint
throughout the product lifecycle, per
the manufacturer.
A New Tube
Neopac’s SpringTube for cosmetics
and personal care products was
developed by subsidiary 3D Neopac.
The tube is designed to maintain its
shape and features a tamper-evident,
Silgan’s P2000 PCR and Prelude PCR. push-on flip-top cap. It can be
decorated via digital, flexo and metallic
foil processes. Its ethylene vinyl alcohol
(EVOH) barrier preserves oxygen-
sensitive formulas and boosts shelf life.
Modular/Refillable Designs
Amfora’s ModuCase modular
packaging allows the manufacturer
to change, adapt, add or remove any
makeup solution that customers need
for foundation, blush, concealer, eye
shadow, contour, etc. Its ModuJar
design features a refillable inner jar
with four design options and gives
access to 128 possible combinations.
Finally, the ModuLip design features
different options for caps, inserts and
From left: Amfora’s ModuCase, ModuLip and ModuJar designs.
bases with 64 possible combinations. n

PRODUCT ROUNDUP [Products, Equipment & Services]
Packaging & Ingredient Innovation
DermalRx Acetygen
Biocogent LLC
Systech Brand Protection Suite www.biocogent.com
Systech International DermalRx Acetygen is a botanically derived active produced
www.systechone.com from Agrimonia eupatoria and Ampelopsis grossedentata. It is
The Systech Brand Protection Suite is meant to secure a brand’s also rich in bioactive flavonoids including dihydromyricetin. The
products from counterfeiting and diversion. The platform is a cutting edge technology delivers beneficial epigenetic effects,
powerful, fully integrated solution that delivers end-to-end visibility including enhanced gene expression for broad anti-inflammatory,
and actionable, data-driven product insight across the supply chain antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. The material is a great
using a simple package barcode. addition to any regimen seeking to enhance natural skin repair.
CBD—Broad Spectrum and Isolate GaleSol

Praan Naturals Acme Hardesty Co
www.botanicalorigins.com www.acme-hardesty.com
Praan Naturals offers broad spectrum CBD and CBD isolate. GaleSol is a natural and effective solubilizing system for cosmetic
Broad spectrum CBD is in crystalline consistency and contains lipophilic actives, perfumes and essential oils. GaleSol remains
over 70% cannabidiol. CBD Isolate is a fine powder with 99+% clear in formulation and can be incorporated via hot or cold
purity. Both are THC-free, grown and produced in the United process. It is the perfect solubilizer for natural/green beauty
States by small, reputable farmers. Each lot is meticulously tested formulations. Acme-Hardesty’s GaleSol is supplied by its partner
by government certified laboratories. Gale & Cosm.
10 Product Roundup Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w
GCI2004_Roundup_fcx.indd 10 3/19/20 8:32 AM

PRODUCT ROUNDUP
Siddha Herbs Botanical Extracts

Campo Research
www.campo-research.com
This Siddha herb extract range offers
functional novelty for cosmetics and
personal care products, from an
ancient Tamil civilization (predating all
Aryan influences) that exist in Monenjo-Doro
and Harappan in the Indus Valley. Derivatives
of Siddha knowledge are still found in all
South and Central Asian medical systems and
Chinese medicine.
Raquel
Baralan
www.baralan.com
Baralan’s Raquel line offers a wide range of
packaging solutions for skin care, makeup
and fragrance. These are simple but precious
glass bottles with square shapes that give a
sense of integrity to the product contained.
Raquel is elegant and catches the attention with
fascinating simplicity and ultimate sophistication.
Scalpology
Univar Solutions
www.univarsolutions.com
Top of the head, but rarely top of mind, the scalp deserves some TLC. Univar
Solutions has created Scalpology, a three-part prototype scalp care system
designed to pamper the oft-ignored scalp. The system includes a scalp scrub,
soothe and shield. Request the formulations online to learn more.
12 Product Roundup Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP
Fiesta Carnation Pink FCM-CP3

Sandream Impact
www.sandreamimpact.com
Fiesta Carnation Pink is a new synthetic
fluorphlogopite pearlescent pigment.
This shade delivers a pop of color and
is carmine- and barium-sulfate-free.
The fine particle size provides intense
coverage and a creamy texture perfect
for radiant palettes.
JD Hair Oil Base

Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Ltd.
www.jojobadesert.com
Luxury LL Cream JD Hair Oil Base is a blend of JD Jojoba
Lady Burd Oil, hemp seed oil and vitamins, which are
www.ladyburd.com essential for healthy hair and scalp. This
Luxury LL Cream are pigment- versatile product is intended for rinse-off
saturated liquid lipsticks created to and leave-on hair care products. Benefits
deliver long-lasting, super creamy of the ingredient include hair conditioning,
lip color with a high-shine finish. heat protection and anti-frizz.
SpectraRinse Dyes Contract Manufacturing

Spectra Colors Corp. Hair Systems Inc.
www.spectracolors.com www.hairsystemsinc.com
SpectraRinse from Spectra Colors Corporation are the only true Hair Systems Inc. is a contract manufacturer of hair lightener,
rinsable dyes, according to the company. The water-based dye hair color and other hair care products. The company has been in
products rinse off skin and most fabrics with no soap/detergent business for over 40 years, providing quality, innovative products
necessary, which still offer deep, saturated shades of color. to the professional beauty industry.
Jakabix NP
Integrity Ingredients Corporation
www.integrityingredientscorp.com
Jakabix is a broad-spectrum preservative system that utilizes the
power of Natural BioZyme Blends combined with botanical active
compounds to kill and inhibit the growth of microorganisms.
14 Product Roundup Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020

MARKETS & TRENDS
Unlocking Loyalty Among Gen Z and Millennials
I
n an industry with a steady stream • Fifty-six percent of respondents
of product launches and brands say a product’s price is the
boasting a dynamic social media leading factor that drives and
presence, gaining the loyalty of initial purchase.
Gen Z and millennial consumers is a • Ninety percent say they will pay
tricky task. more for products they feel work
A survey conducted by Composed better and are of better quality.
(www.composedcreative.com) surveyed • Eighty percent said they prefer to
500 Gen Z and millennial consumers shop brands that give back.
about loyalist tendencies and brand • Eighty-six percent of Gen Z
discovery. Survey findings were consumers and 84% of millennial
compiled into a report titled “Unlocking consumers say sustainability
Brand Loyalty and Preferences Among influences their purchase decision,
Gen Z & Millennial Consumers.” even if it isn’t their primary
motivator to buy. Seventy-five percent of the survey respondents
The survey found:
• Sixty percent of Gen Z and self-identify as brand loyal.
• Seventy-five percent of the survey
millennial consumers say they
respondents self-identify as
value a product’s origin story and • Seventy-one percent of Gen Z and
brand loyal.
take into consideration how a millennial consumers want to see
• Nine out of 10 respondents
product is made/sourced. real people in brands’ marketing.
purchase the same beauty and
• Seventy-five percent of Gen Z • Twenty percent of Gen Z and
grooming products 50% of the
and millennial consumers say millennial consumers will
time or more.
they favor brands that offset their immediately lose interest if they
• Three in four women consistently
environmental impact. don’t like a brand’s Instagram.
shop the same beauty and skin care
• Sixty-five percent of Gen Z • Out-of-home and in-store
brands at least 70% of the time
consumers and 70% of millennial marketing influences more than
(77% Gen Z and 69% millennials).
consumers think the products they 35% of millennial and Gen Z
• Gen Z women are the most
buy have too much packaging. consumers. n
brand loyal.
The Next Normal: Connectivity and Commerce

| BY VALERIE BERNSTEIN and KELLY RAVESTIJN, IN Connected
A
new decade has dawned and, buying to prioritizing experiences at personalization, new methods for
with it, emergent commerce every stage that will inherently keep delivery and visibility tracking.
trends are moving rapidly people coming back for more.
to IRL and ultimately into These shifts are not only for big,
Shifting to Meet Shoppers’
the way beauty brands connect with engaging experiences. Brand leaders are
consumers. reassessing the definition of simplicity Demands
More immediately, 2020 will be and convenience, from time-centric to Brands must drop the commerce
the year of experience. The industry ease of experience and process. silos, manage businesses seamlessly
is undergoing dogma shifts about In 2020 and beyond, the consumer’s as one entity and place shoppers’
exactly what shopper marketing is. purchase journey will become demands and expectations at the
It is therefore shifting from trying to thoroughly experience-focused as a epicenter of connected commerce
persuade and discount people into result of ever-increasing degrees of experience.
16 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w
GCI2004_MarketsTrends_fcx.indd 16 3/19/20 9:03 AM

At its core, shopper behavior hasn’t trendy, but it continues to
changed much: people have a want, a reach all new heights in 2020.
need and/or desire to consume. Yet the From the empowerment
classic fundamentals of the sales funnel of consumers designing their
no longer apply as people shop at their own products beyond color
own convenience—anywhere, anytime, and words to the application
anyhow. Coupled by the limitless and function of DNA-specific
growth in digital platforms and a commerce, personalization
return to IRL shopping experiences, it has gotten very precise. Such
is no longer about capturing the phase examples include Prose or
or infinite fragmentations of their path Function of Beauty in hair
to purchase, but rather apertures of care, and Curology and Allél
connection for them to find, buy and in skin care, which develop
love your brands. personalized beauty products
from consumers’ DNA.
Beauty, Wellness and Fashion Even sweat has become
linked to commerce. Within the notion of discovery, shoppers expect retailers to link
Lead the Way the online and offline worlds.
Available in 2020, Gatorade’s
Within the notion of discovery, sweat analysis patch
shoppers expect retailers to link the measures a person’s sweat rate and are spending 2.5 times more time than
online and offline worlds. Shopping the electrolytes in sweat through in the average store.
should be unconstrained, and the microfluidics. Consumers will use the Perhaps the best expression is the
emergence of 5G, virtual, augmented patch to better hydrate before, during rise of live streaming e-commerce—a
and extended realities are leading to and after a workout. mash-up experience that is a
transcendence retail. Among science, technology and combination of “QVC + Facebook Live
Covergirl’s holographic influencer, consumer demand, one-of-a-kind + Online boutique,” according to And
Olivia, powered by Google AI, greets personalization is becoming an easily Luxe founder, Mark Yuan.
consumers at the NYC flagship, achieved, lucrative business that Blooming in China but still hardly
a high-tech “experiential makeup consumers are expecting. present in the United States and
playground,” and directs them to Europe, live streaming e-commerce
products, promotions and answers represents some of the highest
The Rise of Tribal Shopping
questions. Another AI influencer, Lil engagement in commerce out
Miquela, moves the notion of flawless The beauty category has long there. Shoppers are simultaneously
skin into a literal unreal realm worthy cultivated brand love with a highly interacting with the host, with each
of Black Mirror. effective mix of content, best-in-class other and shopping in a matter of a few
With Amazon Stylesnap, consumers CRM programs (e.g., Sephora Beauty taps in the app.
can use any image and turn it into a Insider) and a fresh cadence of on-
trend newness. But the industry is
shoppable moment; activated with a
watching the rise of tribal shopping as
Experiential Commerce in
click of an icon in the corner of images,
a new way that collective experience is the 2020s
the algorithm
will then determine and
classify items of clothing which are influencing commerce. Although the beauty and personal
present and then look for the most Brands like The Ordinary and ReFa care industry has always thrived on
similar products on Amazon. have tested out this new model of newness, this decade will show there
The traditional online experience is selling alongside well-known luxury are only two strategic choices retailers
no longer enough. This will be the year apparel brands such as Moschino, and brands can make to survive
where it is virtually unnecessary to see, Stella McCartney and Sonia Rykiel, to and thrive in the age of experiential
feel or test a product in person before name a few. commerce: selling something entirely
feeling confident enough to buy it, Saks’ new department, The Wellery, personalized or selling products in a
thanks to augmented reality. embraces the idea of retail therapy new and unique way.
and offers wellness as a luxury By breaking category norms,
experience, where shoppers can evolving the experience and reinventing
The Power of Personal experience products available on the how shoppers find, buy and love
Beauty is also leading precision floor. Meanwhile, at Nordstrom Local, brands, it’s clear that the 2020 spirit of
personalization within buying. the department store’s experiential, beauty is more inclusive than ever, both
Personalization may never stop being merchandise-free showroom, shoppers in form and in function. n
www.gcimagazine.com Markets & Trends 17

MARKETS & TRENDS
What to Expect in a 2020: Treatments, Ingredients

and Makeup
S
ocial Standards (www.
socialstandards.com) has
released its “2020 Beauty
Trends” report, in which
the consumer analytics platform
“unlocked insights into every brand,
product and trend consumers talk
about on social media.”
The report focuses on the three
areas in the beauty and personal care
industry that received the most buzz on
social media: treatments, ingredients
and makeup trends.
Treatments
According to the report, consumer
interest in skin care treatments and
semi-permanent makeup is up, which
is reflected in the fastest-growing
services, products and brands in beauty.
Top treatments included:
• Eyelash lift
• Microneedling
• Lip fillers
Buzzed-about ingredients included hyaluronic acid and silicone.
• Dermaplaning
• Eyebrow tinting
• Dermabrasion • Serum Noteworthy declines included:
• Skin peels • Eyebrow pen/pencil • Rose gold (-32%)
• Facelift • Eyebrow wax • Taupe (-20%)
• Lash strips • Champagne (-14%)
Ingredients and Products • Adhesive lashes • Teal (-9%)
According to Social Standards, • Turquoise (-8%)
less is more when it comes to 2020 Makeup Trends
beauty consumers. The report stated Social Standards stated that after Key Takeaways from Social
that along with semi-permanent years of intricate and vibrant makeup Standards
treatments, consumers are buzzing looks, consumers are ready to simplify.
• Treatments are likely to be huge
about streamlined routines and
Sought-after makeup looks included: in 2020.
multifunctional ingredients.
• Festival makeup • Brands should create offerings that
Buzzed-about ingredients included: • Holographic makeup pair well with semi-permanent
• Hyaluronic acid • Spotlight eye treatments—a cleanser that’s less
• Silicone • Winged eyeliner damaging to lash extensions or a
• Peptides • Dazzle makeup looks soothing brow gel designed for use
• Ceramide • Prismatic makeup looks after microblading.
• Enzyme • Consumers are using fewer
Must-have hues included: products, but they are willing to
Top products included: • Indigo pay more for those they do use. n
• Clay masks • Kohl
• Sheet masks • Navy blue
18 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020

Sponsored by:
From skin care to fragrance to hair to color cosmetics, beauty is in the midst of a shakeup.
20 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2020 Allured Business Media. Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w
GCI2004_CEW_StateoftheIndustry_fcx.indd 20 3/19/20 9:40 AM

THE BEAUTY
2020-2030
FORECASTWhat 2019’s results tell us about the next decade in beauty.
This report was prepared just as the

COVD-19 (coronavirus) epidemic ramped
up. Since the presentations detailed
CORONAVIRUS BEAUTY INTELLIGENCER
herein were delivered, global travel
patterns, supply chains, brand strategies
and consumer behaviors have been
significantly disrupted. While this report
highlights the underlying dynamics of the
market, it does not capture the extent to
which shopping channel preferences and
other key considerations might be reshaped
throughout the remainder of the year.
I
–Editor
n early February 2020 more than

750 beauty industry professionals
packed into CEW’s annual market
trend briefing in New York City—
Global Cosmetic Industry was there.
Certainly everyone in the room
had urgent questions in mind, as A recent report from Euromonitora notes that the coronavirus outbreak in China
voiced by CEW chairwoman Jill appears to have impacted the market’s beauty and personal care sales, which
Scalamandre (of Shiseido): when is the expanded at 9% in 2019. However, the analysis described demand as “more rigid,”
which could fuel a comeback once infection rates diminish.
Winners have included hand sanitizers and liquid soaps, but long-term innova-
tion could include “healthy beauty” products that promote ingredients that deliver
IN THIS SECTION wellbeing benefits.
• Who is the Beauty Consumer of 2020? (Page 23) Subscribe to the Global Cosmetic Industry daily newsletter to receive your regularly
• Skin Care’s Days Are Numbered (Page 26) updated briefing on the impact of COVID-19 on brands, supply chains and consumers.
• Color Cosmetics’ Bumpy Ride (Page 30) Sign up for free at www.gcimagazine.com/newsletter.
• Hair Care Shines (Page 32)
• Fragrance on the Upswing (Page 34)
a
https://blog.euromonitor.com/impact-of-coronavirus-in-china-to-last-beyond-outbreak-in-some-sectors/
www.gcimagazine.com The Beauty 2020-2030 Forecast 21

THE BEAUTY 2020-2030 FORECAST
makeup drought going to end, are Regional prestige sales brands included Rodan + Fields,
big brands dead, and what will the Broader North American prestige Beautycounter and legacy brand
novel coronavirus sweeping the planet beauty sales were flat also, with Mary Kay. The subscription space
do to consumer sales and supply Canada and Mexico increasing sales was dominated by Dollar Shave Club,
chain stability? While not all of these by 2% and 7%, respectively. Europe Curology and Ipsy, while bath specialty
questions were addressed, it was clear experienced a 1% rise boosted by a was led by Bath & Body Works, Lush
that the industry will have to adjust to 1% rise in Germany, a 6% gain in Italy and The Body Shop.
new and evolving realities to continue and a 7% increase in Spain. Those What makes direct retail brands
capturing growth. results were offset by a 1% decline in so powerful is their understanding
France and a 3% drop in the United of where consumers shop, as well as
2019 Sales Decoded Kingdom. South America logged a their ability to capture a larger share
whopping 19% gain. South American of younger consumers year-over-year,
Today, more than half of leading
gainers included Argentina, Brazil, Jensen said. For instance, Jensen noted
brands were either small entities or
Peru and Chile at 55%, 20%, 10% and that while Jeffree Star Cosmetics and
didn’t yet exist 10 years ago. This is
6%, respectively. Glossier operate in the direct retail
the new reality of beauty, said Larissa
Jensen, VP, industry adviser, beauty
at The NPD Group (www.npd.com),
39.4%: growth in searches

who noted that brands must now
be tracked across both traditional
channels such as department and
specialty stores, TV home shopping
and online, as well as key areas of
for adaptogens + CBD in 2019
direct retail innovation, including (Source: Google)
Instabrand, peer-to-peer and
subscription models.
In this increasingly complex mix
of brands and channels, U.S. prestige U.S. sales data channel, their customers’ shopping
and direct retail beauty experienced U.S. prestige beauty sales totaled $19 preferences are radically different. To
flat year-over-year sales in 2019, per billion in 2019. Combined prestige and illustrate, while Jeffree Star customers
NPD data, a worse outcome than the direct retail sales for the period totaled might also shop at Hot Topic or
foodservice sector, but better than the $29 billion, with prestige comprising Morphe or Adam & Eve, Glossier’s
performance seen in apparel. (What 68% and direct retail making up the consumer would be more likely to
do more successful sectors have over remaining 32%. Notably, every category spend money with Patagonia, Goop
beauty? Convenience.) experienced a slowdown year-over-year, and Thrive Market.
Jensen explained. The results tell the whole story: In
Digging into the data, Jensen 2019, Morphe increased its share of
uncovered growth in prestige U.S. female consumers under the age
TOP 8 online sales, whereas in-store sales
declined. Top prestige brands online
of 35 from 5% to 8%, while Glossier
expanded from 3% to 5% and Jeffree
Volume Gainers of 2019 Star Cosmetics rose from 3% to 6% in
included Estee Lauder, Clinique
1. Bath & Body Works and Lancôme, while the same three the same period.
2. Jeffree Star Cosmetics brands also dominated the declining
3. Curology brick-and-mortar space, which is Mass sales results
4. Josie Maran likely to suffer further in the wake of Mass beauty in-store U.S. sales totaled
5. Beautycounter coronavirus concerns. $39 billion in 2019, according to a
6. Glossier presentation by Genevieve Lee Aronson,
7. Charlotte Tilbury Direct retail’s strategic victories VP of communications at Nielsen
8. Olaplex Similarly, in the direct retail space, (www.nielsen.com). She noted that,
while peer-to-peer brand sales dropped at the same time, unit sales declined,
Combined, these brands generated notably in 2019, they rose in the bath reflecting gains from higher prices.
$866 million in dollar gains, reflecting a specialty, subscription and Instabrand Mass beauty online sales for the
16% dollar growth and 22% increase in sectors. Top Instabrands included same period totaled $14 billion, driven
dollar share, per NPD data. Deciem, Glossier and Jeffree Star by 20 million new online beauty and
Cosmetics, while leading peer-to-peer personal care shoppers. The pace of
22
Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w

growth, however, is slowing down.
Nielsen forecasts have shown this
channel expanding anywhere from WHO IS THE BEAUTY CONSUMER OF 2020?
$21.7 billion to $29.2 billion by 2025,
depending upon the rate of online
shopper growth and the ease of the
shopping experience they encounter.
Aronson explained that the
omnichannel shopper is increasingly
the norm, with categories such as
cosmetics, nail grooming and skin
care registering nearly one quarter of
sales to this shopper. She added that
nearly half of surveyed shoppers are
using or willing to use augmented
or virtual reality tools to examine
products and services, while 57% are
using or willing to use a mobile app
for in-store navigation of products,
deals and promotions.
Search trends & shopper intent Supporting consumers today requires brands to leverage psychographics that focus on identities,
not demographics.
During a presentation of data derived
from Google searches, Yarden Horwitz,
cofounder of Spate (www.spate.nyc), Consumers don’t fit into neat little boxes, said Mintel’s Sara Jindal. She noted that support-
and Flynn Matthews, Google’s head ing consumers today requires brands to leverage psychographics that focus on identities, not
of insights and analytics, global CPG, demographics. This will be critical for building trust with beauty shoppers by giving them exactly
noted that consumer search data has what they want or need by leveraging their unique data. This is particularly true in an age of
unveiled beauty’s new reality: brand, product and channel proliferation.
She noted that, in the future, brands will use tools like functional magnetic resonance imaging
• Unique subsegments are driving (fMRI), which detects blood flow changes to measures brain activity, and gaze mapping, which
consumer interest in all categories. tracks eye movement patterns, to better understand consumers.
• Branded searches make up 22% Consumer search histories can also yield significant insights and point to shopper intent, said
of the total volume in beauty, Flynn Matthews, head of insights, global CPG, for Google, noting that consumers often say one
growing at 20% year-over-year. thing but do another. Search-based data, she argued offers a more honest look at how consumers
This has given an advantage to really think and where their concerns lie.
legacy brands, but that advantage She noted that trends appear to be migrating from food to beauty to pets, an insight gleaned
is shrinking. from the roughly 48 billion Google searches conducted in 2019. Search volume is growing at
• Successful brands have outpaced 10% annually, she added, with 82% of queries coming from mobile, which is expanding at 13%
the market by delivering micro- year-over-year a.
category offerings such as brow In today’s market, Jindal argued that brands will need to develop authentic content to help
tattoos, or by leveraging the breach the rising tide of loneliness associated with social media and digital lifestyles. Here, big
popularity of key vloggers such as data can be leveraged to not only streamline product development, but also to boost proactivity,
Jeffree Star. drive down costs and eliminate waste.
In fact, Jindal explained, big data and AI platforms can allow brands to know what con-
Beauty’s Needless sumers need/want before the consumer is aware. By serving specific needs, consumer trust
Discounting Epidemic can be enhanced.
As NPD’s Jensen warned in her In addition, brands and retailers will want to think about the creation of so-called “third
briefing in 2019, discounts have places” where consumers can connect with like-minded people. The insight was derived from
proliferated. A deep promotional data that reportedly showed that 29% of consumers feel more at home in places other than the
cycle has since broken out, featuring place they live due in part to the rising blur between work and personal time. This is particularly
aggressive discounting that saturated true in cities.
30 out of 52 weeks last year. Jensen
once again warned that there are no
a
Fun fact: According to Matthews, Japan over indexes for search volume, racking up 22 billion searches in 2019.
winners in this race to the bottom.

During their presentation, Horwitz

and Matthews noted that Google data
has unearthed new shopping patterns BEAUTY & PERSONAL CARE PRICE GROWTH
in the Unites States and beyond.
These were led by growing spikes in
spending around China’s increasingly
global Singles’ Day (November 11)
shopping event, around which search
volume doubled year-over-year, as well
as emerging opportunities associated
with Vid Con and International
Women’s Day. By using search data,
brands can identify new seasonality
to expand marketing opportunities
beyond traditional holidays.
However, these opportunities can
be undercut by discounting missteps.
As Jensen illustrated, dollar volume
in November 2019 was huge due to Amazon offered nearly 70% of the beauty and personal care product SKUs tracked in the United States.
Singles’ Day. Unfortunately, brands
needlessly promoted discounts online
for products that otherwise would Median product prices in the beauty and personal care sector grew 1.8% in recent months,
have sold full price. In fragrance, for according to Euromonitor International (www.euromonitor.com), which has introduced a new
instance, Jensen displayed data that pricing intelligence solution, Via.
purported to show that nearly 8% of The system extracted and analyzed the data in the U.S. beauty and personal care market from
discounted product would have sold December 1, 2019 to February 1, 2020 and found:
for full price anyway. This translated • L’Oréal Groupe had the most beauty and personal care product SKUs, with median price
to $12 million in lost revenues, per growth of 4%.
NPD figures. • Amazon offered the most beauty and personal care SKUs tracked in the United States—more
than 15 times the number of beauty and personal care SKUs offered by Ulta. In fact, Amazon
Cyber is the New Black: offered nearly 70% of the beauty and personal care product SKUs tracked in the United States.
Holiday 2019
Overall holiday 2019 sales were Via is reportedly capable of tracking more than 15 million SKUs from online retailers, providing
strong enough to offset weakness from updates on price changes and product attributes across 40 markets.
earlier in the year, with a big exception “The growth of e-commerce across the global retail environment can’t be ignored,” said Lee
in makeup. Linthicum, research director at Euromonitor International. “As more businesses go online to find
Black Friday, long the traditional their consumers, this creates unprecedented opportunities to gain deeper, actionable and real-
start of the U.S. holiday sales season, time insights into their product assortment and pricing mix at a category, brand owner, brand and
was overshadowed by Cyber Monday individual product level.”
in 2019. Black Friday beauty sales rose
1% year-over-year to $534 million, led
by increases in fragrance, skin care com), clarified that beauty in 2020 benefits beyond aesthetic concerns.
and hair care, but offset somewhat by and beyond is about feeling beautiful. These included:
declines in makeup. Cyber Monday Yes, this can impact aesthetics
sales, meanwhile, jumped 12% to $580 addressed by conventional beauty and 1. Emerging consumer concerns
million, posting 9% more volume than personal care products, but it also The fastest-growing concerns
Black Friday. In addition, all beauty demands innovation in the areas of accompanying ingredient searches
categories experienced year-over-year feel-good offerings for the mind, body on Google were pain (up 15.3% in
sales gains on Cyber Monday. and spirit. This holistic mindset will be 2019) and anxiety (up 13.6%). The
critical for any beauty brand seeking top anxiety-associated ingredients,
5 Key Wellness Opportunities growth in the years to come. according to Google: CBD (expanding
Sarah Jindal, senior innovation The analysts at the CEW briefing by 64% in 2019), ashwagandha (rising
and insights analyst, beauty and provided a wide range of actionable by 38% year-over-year), melatonin and
personal care at Mintel (www.mintel. insights for expanding beauty brands’ St. John’s wort.
24

Other emerging concerns included 3. Cannabis-based beauty Consumer Electronics Show portends
menopause (up 18% in 2019), libido Legal cannabis sales could reach a wider acceptance of once-taboo
(up 18%), sleep (up 15.9%) and stress $41 billion in the United States categories. As detailed in “Sexual
(up 10%). by 2025, with the hemp-derived Wellness: Beauty’s Next Frontier b,” this
Brands that address these issues CBD market comprising $6 billion presents opportunities to beauty and
will need to “bring realness” to the of that total, according to Nielsen personal care brands seeking to offer
conversation said Google’s Matthews. data. Notably, beauty could capture everything from hygienic products to
Language is critical in creating about 9% of the CBD space, with butt masks to personal lubricants to
a consumer-facing conversation the ingredient displacing some menopausal innovations and beyond.
around the most critical and intimate
challenges. Packaging, content and the
overall brand experience will need to
be precisely tooled to put the shopper
in the right state, she added.
2. Responsive beauty
31%: mass market men’s
As seen at CES over the last few years,
groom unit growth in 2019
the beauty industry has experienced
the rise of responsive technology that (Source: Nielsen)
monitors wellbeing by measuring
UV exposure, climate conditions
and other factors. While Mintel’s
Jindal highlighted the opportunities conventional cosmetic and acne/skin 5. Serving Generation S
for these systems to generate medication ingredients. Nielsen’s While millennials and Gen Z get
recommendations for the right product Aronson noted that 40% of surveyed more than their fair share of trend
at the right time or even to direct the consumers in 2019 said they would headlines, the global population is
dispensation of targeted ingredient legally consume cannabis to treat acne in fact aging, said Jindal, creating
profiles in personalized systems, little and other skin conditions. opportunities to address the needs of
of this technology has entered the In addition, NPD data presented Generation Silver. People are living
mainstream. To do so, companies will by Jensen showed that CBD-driven and working and staying active longer,
need to focus on accessible designs and products have already racked up 59% necessitating aesthetic products and
pricepoints, while demonstrating the dollar performance growth in the last biohacking solutions to manage age
inherent value to the consumer a. year, with interest over-indexing in holistically—physically, emotionally,
cities such as Salt Lake City, Phoenix cognitively, etc. n
a
For a more in-depth analysis of the challenge and Denver.
of beauty tech, see Benjamin Lord’s “5 Reasons
High-tech Beauty Isn’t Taking Off”; www. 4. Intimate wellness b
Pages 32-39, January 2020 edition of Global
gcimagazine.com/business/rd/technology/5-
Jensen noted that the emergence Cosmetic Industry; http://gcimagazine.texterity.
Reasons-High-tech-Beauty-Isnt-Taking-
Off--566850641.html of women’s sexual devices at the 2020 com/gcimagazine/january_2020/

In 2019, U.S. prestige skin care sales reached $5.9 billion, with natural products as the top growth contributor, per NPD.
26

SKIN CARE’S DAYS
ARE
NUMBERED
All booms must end.
S
kin care has enjoyed treatments, brighteners, exfoliators and
a strong boom amid a lip treatments.
wellness revolution, but The top 2019 prestige skin care
the category is due for launch by dollar volume sales in the
a correction by 2022, United States was Clinique Moisture
according to NPD forecasts Surge 72-hour Auto-replenishing
presented by Jensen. Hydrator. The leading unit seller for the
The analyst added some historical year was IT Cosmetics’ Confidence in a
perspective, noting that skin care Gel-Lotion, while the top online seller
overshadowed makeup’s performance was La Mer’s The Concentrate.
as recently as 2012, after which Skin care grew in every market
makeup experienced its meteoric rise. but the United Kingdom and France,
Now that the cycle has once again which both experienced overall
turned, it’s unclear how long skin care prestige beauty sales declines in
will outpace its colorful counterpart. 2019, according to NPD. However the
Per NPD data presented by Jensen, skin category increased sales in most other
care’s correction could come in Q3 or markets, led by gains in Argentina (up
Q4 of 2022. 57%), Brazil (up 33%), Peru (up 13%),
and Mexico and Spain (both up 10%). The top prestige skin care online seller in the United
Prestige market North American saw gains across States in 2019 was La Mer’s The Concentrate.
In 2019, U.S. prestige skin care sales the board—Mexico up 10%, Canada
reached $5.9 billion, with natural up 9% and the United States up 5%. care launches entering mass beauty
products as the top growth contributor, Canada was the only country tracked in 2019. Despite this rise in launches,
per NPD. Natural skin care brands in Jensen’s presentation that had a facial skin care was the only area
represented 30% of total skin care skin care product as its top launch that grew in volume (up 5%) and
results, with sales growing by 14% of 2019: Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream dollar sales, while also achieving
over 2018. Top performers in skin care (reformulation). U.S. prestige skin strongest dollar share gains online.
included cleansers, moisturizers, acne care sales declined by 5% in fine This meagre result illustrates that
department stores, but rose 17% sometimes more is less.
online, while also posting a 2% gain in According to Nielsen data, hand and
SKIN CARE TIP: “flawsome” skin is general brick-and-mortar. body lotion dollar growth rose 2%, but
putting the emphasis on self-acceptance,
unit growth declined about 1% in the
which is reflected in the rise of TikTok, Mass market same period. Eye cream dollar growth
a social media platform that highlights
Nielsen’s Aronson noted that the and unit growth expanded at 17%
authenticity over Instagram’s focus on
churn of innovation in skin care has and 13%, respectively, while the same
perfection. (Source: Mintel)
hit new levels, with 3,100 new skin metrics for adult sunscreen rose by

4% and 2%, respectively. Meanwhile

notable decline was seen in facial
cleansing masks, which posted
declines of 17% in both dollar and
unit growth.
Consumer search trends

Skin care Google searches grew 16%
in 2019, according to Matthews, led by
topics such as sun care and treatments.
She added that search growth had
slowed year-over-year.
Notably, claim/quality search
terms in the skin care category had a
number of breakout stars, including
dewy (up 40.5% in 2019), renewing
(up 40.4%), recovery (up 29.1%) and
cloud (up 21.9%).
Fast-growing interest in treatments
in 2019 reflected a desire for spa-
ready results: gua sha facials (up
126.1%), body sculpting (up 117.8%), Kiehl’s reformulated its Ultra Facial Cream to remove parabens and experienced
dermaplaning (up 79.3%) and a sales bump of $5 million, per NPD data.
hydrafacials (up 53.9%). Interest in
devices also increased, particularly
for skin care refrigerators (up been more prominent in the sector Data from ResearchandMarkets’
827.6%), rose quartz rollers (up than clean beauty. “Global Bio-Based Cosmetics and
141.4%), zit sticks (up 108.3%) and Jensen noted that clean brands have Personal Care Ingredients Marketc”
jade rollers (up 82.6%). experienced 20% year-over-year dollar forecast for 2019-2029 backs up this
growth and now comprise 15% of dollar data. The firm noted that the bio-based
The power of “clean,” etc. share. However, as consumers demand material market will grow at a 5.18%
greater efficacy, a new wave of “clean- CAGR through the end of the decade,
Jensen noted that consumer
ical” skin care has arisen, promising driven by increased substitution
attitude shifts are changing the rules
safety, sustainability and results. The of ingredients such as aluminum
for skin care brands. She noted, for
opportunity is significant between the salts, phthalates, parabens and
instance, that 16% of beauty products
growth rate of clean beauty and that of petrochemicals, as well as the rising
comprise floral and fruit ingredients,
clinical, the latter of which has posted popularity of skin whitening creams,
mirroring the wider trend in plant-
7% dollar gains and established 29% moisturizing lotions, facial wipes,
based innovation found in apparel
dollar share in the market. sunscreen lotions and deodorants.
and food/beverage. But no trend has
At the same time, some of the This boom will be most apparent in
world’s largest brands embracing North America where, in 2019, bio-
trendy buzzwords like clean and based material sales rose more than
TOP 5 cruelty-free, as seen with Covergirl’s

Clean Fresh collection. It comes as no
45%. This is due in part to growing
disposable income in the United
Prestige Skin Care Brands, surprise as brands offering cruelty- States, increased concerns regarding
U.S. Market, 2019 free and vegan innovation have grown synthetic materials (whatever their
(Source: NPD) dollar performance by 17% and validity) and rising e-commerce
25% year-over-year, respectively. For penetration. That said, the cost of bio-
1. Clinique
instance, Kiehl’s reformulated its Ultra based materials will dampen growth
2. Estee Lauder Facial Cream to remove parabens somewhat, according to the report. n
3. Lancôme and experienced a sales bump of $5
4. La Mer million. The increase helped it climb c
www.researchandmarkets.com
5. Kiehl’s into the top five U.S. prestige skin care
brands of the year.
28

Makeup brands will need to respond to shifting consumer values to recapture growth.
30

COLOR COSMETICS’
BUMPY RIDE
When will makeup stage a comeback? Not for a while. But the news isn’t all bad.
N
PD’s Jensen noted
that makeup
experienced a serious
sales dip in 2019,
with prestige growth
unable to offset
overall contraction,
and is forecast to
have a “bumpy ride” through 2022.
U.S. prestige makeup sales totaled
$7.6 billion in 2019, according to NPD
data. Prestige makeup sales rose in key
Latin American markets, including
Argentina (up 71%), Brazil (up 33%)
and Peru (up 13%), though Chile’s sales
did drop 1%. The top launch in Chile
and Peru was MAC Up for Everything
Waterproof Mascara, the only markets
reviewed by Jensen to have a color
cosmetic in the number-one spot.
The top U.S. prestige launch of
2019 was Urban Decay Stay Naked
Weightless Liquid Foundation, The top U.S. prestige launch of 2019 was Urban Decay Stay Naked
Weightless Liquid Foundation.
per NPD. The top unit seller was
Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Gel,
while the top online seller was Urban where results were flat, according Working from home has exasperated
Decay Naked Honey Eye Shadow to NPD data. Cyclical shifts in the this trend, as has technology that
Palette. The fastest grower was Laura market are partly to blame, but allows people to virtually “upgrade”
Mercier Natural Skin Perfector Tinted Jensen highlighted more significant their appearance. (COVID-19 may
Moisturizer SPF 30. challenges, including the fact that further accelerate this trend.) In
In Europe, sales dropped in more women are using less makeup, addition, 33% of millennials are saving
Germany, France and the United greatly offsetting the consumption of more money rather than spending it
Kingdom by 3%, 6% and 8%, new makeup shoppers. on makeup.
respectively, per NPD. Gains were seen Jensen explained that millennials
in Italy (up 5%) and Spain (up 3%). In are less likely to wear makeup than Mass market
North America, Canada and the United their older counterparts. Those that Makeup led U.S. mass market
States saw sales drop—by 5% and 7%, use makeup are using it less often. e-commerce dollar share totals in
respectively—while Mexico logged a In fact, Jensen pointed out, the 2019, according to Nielsen data. In the
3% increase. percentage of women wearing less same period, dollar and unit growth
Notably, U.S. makeup sales declined makeup is more than double that of slowed in face, eye and lip cosmetics,
in every channel, except online, the women wearing more makeup. according to data presented by

Nielsen’s Aronson. Eyelash treatments En Argent, Uoma Beauty, Scott Barnes
TOP 5
and false eyelashes saw healthy gains and Copycat Beauty.
in dollar growth and unit growth, Top brands in eyelash search
with treatment dollar growth jumping included micro-category brands such Prestige Makeup Brands,
189% in 2019, and unit growth as Moxielash, Forchics, Lashes MD U.S. Market, 2019
expanding 232%. and Baddie B Lashes, as well as more (Source: NPD)
In a year dominated by news of a established players such as L’Oreal
category slowdown, it was no surprise Paris and Essence. Micro-category and 1. MAC
to see significant declines in dollar and upstart brands also ruled eyebrows, 2. Clinique
unit growth for contour/highlighters including Tatbrow, Tinkle, Rapidbrow, 3. IT Cosmetics
(down 29% and 26%, respectively) Grande Cosmetics and Glossier. The 4. Lancôme
and mascara (down 2% and 7%, same was true for lip gloss, where
5. Benefit*
respectively). However, Nielsen data Blossom, Glossier, Pat McGrath and
also showed that for many products, ColourPop made strong showings. *Ranked at number 9 in 2018
channel matters. This has been a boon Among color cosmetic-related
for brands targeting male shoppers, treatments, lip blushing led growth,
who comprise 20% of the online exhibiting 204.7% year-over-year growth makeup responds to this movement
channel’s nail polish dollar spend. in search volume, per Google data. will be key to its revival. Historically,
NPD data has detected a shift between
Consumer search trends The promise of “natural” makeup and skin care every four
Makeup-related Google searches “‘Natural’ is a big buzz word in to five years. Based on this, and the
rose 4% in 2019, according to many industries, especially beauty—in slowdown in makeup that began to
Matthews, led by eyelash, brow and terms of product ingredients as well take hold in 2017, I anticipate we’ll see
lip gloss topics. Top brands overall as consumers looking to achieve a makeup rebound in the next one to
included Surratt, Ole Henriksen, Belle more natural look,” said Jensen. “How two years.” n
HAIR CARE
SHINES The segment continues to expand at a strong rate, driven in part
by its high online penetration rate.
U.
S. prestige hair care (up 31%), per NPD. In the United Other top launches in the
sales rose in every States, Olaplex had a massive year with sector highlighted the strength of
segment, year-over- the No. 6 Reparative Styling Crème subsegments, including dry shampoo
year, including fine representing the sector’s top launch by (Drybar’s Detox Dry Shampoo), hair
department stores (up dollar volume sales. The brand managed masks (Bumble & bumble Curl Butter
1%), brick-and-mortar to climb the top brand list from number Masque) and treatments (DevaCurl
(up 11%) and online seven in 2018 to number three. High Shine Multi-benefit Oil).
32

U.S. prestige hair care sales rose
in every segment in 2019.
TOP 5
Prestige Hair Care Brands,
U.S. Market, 2019 Mass market and 9%, respectively, while the same
(Source: NPD) Mass hair care dollar growth rose metrics increased for dry shampoo by
a half a percent in 2019, while unit 14% and 10%, respectively.
1. Living Proof
growth declined 2%, according to
2. DevaCurl Consumer search trends
Nielsen data. Hair color dollar growth
3. Olaplex rose 1%, while unit growth dropped Google data presented by Matthews
4. Bumble & bumble almost 2.5% in the same period. Curl- showed that hair-related searches grew
5. Drybar enhancing styling product dollar by 13% in 2019, led by interest in hair
growth and unit growth rose by 12% tools and hair care. n

P
K
a
a
M
t
f
2
a
A
r
l
i
g
d
s
t
E
C
t
y
U.S. prestige fragrance sales increased 11% online and 1% in general brick-and-mortar, while declining slightly in fine department stores.
34

FRAGRANCE
ON THE
UPSWING
Subcategories and less reliance on flankers are paying off.
P
restige fragrance had • Mont Blanc Explorer
a good 2019, with
fragrances representing
• Chanel Gabrielle Essence
• Valentino Donna Born in Roma
TOP 5
the top launches of the • Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau Prestige Women’s
year in markets such as So Sweet Fragrance Brands, U.S.
France, Italy, Germany, • Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend Market, 2019
Spain, the United • L’Homme Cologne Bleue (Source: NPD)
Kingdom, the United States, Mexico,
1. Coco Mademoiselle
and key Latin American markets such In Europe, France was flat and the
as Brazil, Argentina and Chile. United Kingdom was down 1%, largely
2. Chance
In North America, sales rose in in line with overall prestige beauty 3. La Vie Est Belle
Mexico (up 7%), Canada (up 2%) and sales, but Italy, Germany and Spain 4. Daisy Marc Jacobs
the United States (up 2%). U.S. prestige posted increases of 5%, 1% and 3%, 5. Light Blue
fragrance sales totaled $4.5 billion in respectively. Lancôme Idole EDP was
2019, with perfumes growing by 49% the top launch in Spain, France and
and eau de parfums growing by 9%. Germany, while Dior Sauvage Perfume
Artisanal fragrances grew at the fastest
rate, but designer brands captured the
led the United Kingdom.
Prestige fragrance sales in Latin TOP 5
largest share of category sales. America, meanwhile, were robust, with Prestige Men’s Fragrance
U.S. prestige fragrance sales gains in Argentina (up 52%), Brazil Brands, U.S. Market, 2019
increased 11% online and 1% in (up 20%), Chile (up 9%) and Peru (Source: NPD)
general brick-and-mortar, while (up 7%). Fragrance represented the
declining slightly in fine department year’s top launch only in Brazil, where
1. Bleu De Chanel
stores. The top launch of the year in Carolina Herrera Good Girl Drama Dot 2. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme
the United States was Chanel Gabrielle Collector EDP led the market. 3. Sauvage
Essence, while in Mexico Chanel According to Google data presented 4. YSL Y Homme
Chance Eau Tendre dominated. The by Matthews, fragrance searches grew 5. Gucci Guilty Homme
top 10 launches in the U.S. market last by 21% in 2019, led by interest in sub
year were: categories including body sprays and
hair perfumes. This rise is backed up in most markets. Jensen noted that
• Lancôme Idole
by prestige fragrance market growth growth came from more original
• Yves Saint Laurent Libre
tracked by NPD, which showed scents, rather than from flankers, as
• Dolce & Gabanna K
fragrance achieving top launch status was the case in 2018. n
• Versace Eros Flame

CLAIMS IN THE
INDIE BRAND ERA
Part 3 of a 4-part series: understanding the market dynamics that drive beauty claims.
| BY KAREN YARUSSI-KING, Global Regulatory Associates
Claims are a vital way in which brands communicate the benefits of a product to the consumer.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2020 Allured Business Media.
36 Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w
GCI2004_FeelGoodBeauty_fcx.indd 36 3/19/20 9:53 AM

I
ndie beauty has a claims the safety of a product. The safety of experience can reasonably conclude
problem. As discussed in the a product must be validated before from the available toxicological and
first part of this series (see placing a product on the market. In other test data, chemical composition,
sidebar), indie beauty brands the absence of safety testing, the U.S. and other pertinent information
are disrupting the cosmetic Food and Drug Administration (FDA) that the product is not injurious
industry. These brands are less requires that it have the following to consumers under conditions
than five years old with limited statement on the label: “Warning— of customary use and reasonably
product offerings, typically The safety of this product has not foreseeable conditions of misuse. Even
in one category, and are founded by been determined.” if the safety of each ingredient has been
both industry insiders and outsiders. According to the FDA, 21 CFR 740.10 substantiated, there usually still is at
For the most part, the products being safety testing “may be considered least some toxicological testing needed
offered are not innovative but rather adequately substantiated if experts with the formulated product to assure
twists on existing products based qualified by scientific training and adequate safety substantiation.”
on global wellness trends driven by
ethical consumers and retailers’ “clean”
lists. Unfortunately, the unintended
consequence is massive industry ABOUT THIS SERIES
competition and consumer confusion,
Industry expert Karen Yarussi-King traces the origins of indie beauty and its impact on the
particularly around claims.
current and future state of the industry.
Anatomy of a Claim
Claims are a vital way in which
brands communicate the benefits of
a product to the consumer. Cosmetic
claims, in general, can be divided
into six categories: obvious, puffery,
emotive, formulation, sensory and
performance/efficacy (T-1).
Claims can be supported in five
basic ways, subjective (consumer
perception), pseudo-subjective
(professional grading), objective
(bioinstrumentation), in-vitro (literally
“in glass”) modeling and the formula
itself. Each type of claim requires a
different level of substantiation or
none at all. PART 1: Where Did Indie Beauty Come From? (February 2020)
Obvious, puffery and emotive The factors that created the fertile environment for the rise of indie brands.
claims generally do not require
support. Clearly, “contains honey” PART 2: Product Development in the Indie Brand Era (March 2020)
can be supported by the formula if How product development has changed since the rise of indie beauty and the differences
it actually contains honey. Sensory between traditional and indie brand product development.
claims like “skin feels refreshed”
PART 3: Claims in the Indie Brand Era (in this issue)
or “skin feels moisturized” can be
supported by consumer perception This edition addresses claim development and support, the interaction among various
because it is based on the individual. standards such as “natural” and “clean” in product development, and consumer confusion as
Claims like “24-hour moisturization” a result of various claims and self-certifications.
require objective support measured by PART 4: The Future of the Industry (May 2020)
bioinstrumentation. In vitro support is
Yarussi-King discusses the need for regulatory oversight globally; the prospects for indie
most often used for proof of concept
brands; formula trends such as halal, traditional Chinese medicine, Ayurveda and personal-
testing or when it would be unethical
ization; and the future of claims.
to test on human subjects.
In addition to testing to substantiate Subscribe for the full series at: www.gcimagazine.com/magazine
claims, testing is required to support
www.gcimagazine.com Claims in the Indie Brand Era 37

CLAIMS IN THE INDIE BRAND ERA
The standard safety tests are human Claims like “clears up blemishes and
repeat insult patch testing (HRIPT), allows skin to heal” and “helps prevent T-1. Types of cosmetics claims
microbial testing (water activity, sunburn” are examples of approved
preservative efficacy, microbial limits) claims under the monographs. 1. Obvious Claims
• “A kiss of pearlized color,” “citrus flavor”
and in some cases eye safety (HET-
2. Puffery Claims
CAM, epi-ocular). Old School Testing, Claims, • “Deliciously sweet fragrance,” “the most
Frequently, safety testing creates and Claims Support luxurious cream ever”
product claims. “Tear-free,” 3. Emotive Claims
In the pre-indie brand era, as was
“dermatologist tested,” “safe for • “Leaves you feeling sexy,” “pamper yourself”
discussed in the first two parts of this
sensitive skin” and “safe for cosmetic 4. Formulation Claims
series, product claims and ingredient • “Contains honey—a natural humectant,”
lens wearers” are examples of product
education were the direct result of the “oil-free”
claims supported by safety testing.
work of the large technical staffs at 5. Sensory Claims
The key is that both types of testing
the big traditional brands. Products • “Does not leave skin feeling greasy,” “skin
are needed to place the product on the feels refreshed”
were thoroughly tested and evaluated
market safely and make claims that 6. Performance/Efficacy Claims
for safety and efficacy, after which
are supported. • “24-hour moisturization”
regulatory and legal professionals
Unlike cosmetics, over-the-counter • “Instantly boosts hydration levels by 60%”
reviewed the claims against the testing, • “In just 2 weeks, fine lines and wrinkles
(OTC) products may have drug claims.
regulations and legal precedence. were reduced by 74%”
Examples of OTCs are sunscreens
Since most brands were using the • “Tear-free”
or acne products. OTC monographs
same ingredients, there was little
dictate the approved drug actives, use
differentiation in the product claims
levels, claims and warnings—basically
between the big brands. Sodium certain ingredients or combinations
everything that must be reported on
hyaluronate, superoxide dismutase, of ingredients could rebuild collagen,
the label, including the drug facts box.
alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and cell signaling or increase elasticity.
vitamins C and E were found in many However, as discussed in the second
popular products. It was for this reason
Why can’t that the big brands would conduct
part of this series, the U.S. FDA
disallowed many of these claims
I say that, research to find and patent novel

ingredients and delivery systems to
associated with the new ingredients,
despite mountains of evidence.
so-and-so create a point of difference.
Research during that time produced
So, some brands began patenting
complexes as a way to gain a
says it. significant discoveries related to existing
ingredients. For example, the use of
competitive edge. For example,
if a big brand patented the use of
tocopherol, retinol and ascorbic acid
as a complex, then no one else could
use all three ingredients together
in their formulas. The complexes
were often given aspirational trade
names—for example, “Fountain of
Youth Complex”—so as not to disclose
the ingredient combinations and to
imply claims that were not explicitly
permitted by the U.S. FDA. Often,
the big brands would review other
brands’ formulations and file lawsuits
if they found the combination; thus,
the legal review of formulas became
increasingly important.
The bottom line is that while the
big brands may have pushed the
envelope with their claims, they had
also conducted safety and efficacy
Claims can be supported in five basic ways, subjective (consumer perception), pseudo-subjective (professional testing and had support for what was
grading), objective (bioinstrumentation), in-vitro (literally “in glass”) modeling and the formula itself. on the label.
38

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Common Claims Mistakes always the same—lack of industry on reviewing other brands’ claims and
by Indie Brands experience or no exposure to the claims do not realize that these claims need
Typically, when I start working substantiation process, even if from a support. The disallowed claims almost
with a brand, I am asked to review big brand. always require objective support, and
their artwork. When I tell the brand The first reason a brand may not be none is available.
that they cannot make claims I hear, permitted to make a claim is that there Another reason a particular claim
“Why can’t I say that, so-and-so is no data to substantiate it. As I wrote cannot be made is that the brand is
says it.” There are several reasons in the first two parts of this series, making structure-function or OTC
for this response, but the source is many indie brands create claims based drug claims. Claims like “reduces or
normalizes oil production” or “heals
inflammation” are drug claims. Unless
the product contains a drug active,
these claims cannot be made on a
cosmetic product.
In some cases, the brand will
provide a study conducted by the raw
material manufacturer as support.
Unfortunately, efficacy testing must
be conducted on the final product, as
discussed in “Product Development
in the Indie Brand Era.” Often the
claim can be salvaged by softening
the language if the ingredient is being
used at the same level as was used
by the manufacturer in testing. So,
“reduces fine lines and wrinkles”
may become “helps to improve the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
The use of the word “helps” is the key
to softening the claim.
In other cases where ingredient
claims are made, indie brands will
assign a specific end benefit to the
ingredient. “Specially formulated
with green tea to protect skin,”
“contains watermelon extract to boost
hydration,” and “with cocoa butter
to protect dry, chapped skin” are all
problematic for different reasons.
For the first two, unless the
product was tested with and
without the ingredient to show
that that ingredient—green tea or
watermelon—are the source of that
benefit, then it is unsupported. The
word protect, in the first case, implies
a drug benefit. While the claim “with
cocoa butter to protect dry, chapped
skin” may seem innocuous, cocoa
butter is a skin protectant drug active
and the claim is explicitly defined in
the skin protectant monograph.
The last reason a claim may
be rejected is if some testing was
done but either the testing was not
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appropriately designed for the claims

or the results are misunderstood or
overstated. For example, an HRIPT is
not enough to substantiate “reduces
redness” because HRIPT is used to
see if a product will induce a reaction
causing redness, not reduce it. In this
case, the test was not appropriately
designed for the claim.
Another situation that I see
frequently is a study, either consumer
perception or clinical, that involves too
few people to appropriately support
the claim. The smaller the number,
the more impactful negative responses
are to the overall results. Ten negative
responses in a study of 150 people
provides a very different outcome than
10 in a study of 25.
Likewise, a consumer perception test
with 65% of the subjects saying that When the U.S. FDA disallowed many claims associated with new ingredients, some brands began patenting
complexes as a way to gain a competitive edge.
their “skin feels healthier” does not
mean that the product “dramatically
improves the health of the skin.” The safer. However, lack of regulation Some of this is the result of the
key is in how the questions are asked. and industry knowledge are leading retailers’ clean lists.
This case illustrates another issue, to misinformation. Many of the free When asked about a point of
which is the lack of statistical analysis. of claims are banned substances, difference from other brands, many
Using the above example, just because ingredients that would never be used cite the number of free of claims—not
the “majority,” or 65%, agree to a in that product type/category, or the relevance—in an effort to out free
statement doesn’t necessarily mean ingredients that have been proven of their competitors. Using retailers’
that it is statistically significant or, in to be safe but are synthetic or on a clean lists, many brands are self-
other words, supported. retailer’s clean list. certifying. As evidence, take a look at
The net result is that many indie Often, brands are using ingredients various indie brands’ websites and you
brands, particularly those that do not that have little or no proven safety will see the wide variety of symbols
engage technical professionals, are in place of ingredients that are well- (F-1). Many are creating symbols
creating consumer confusion as it studied but perceived to be “unsafe” that are meant to look official but
relates to safety and efficacy. simply because they are synthetic. A are not supported by an independent
good example is the misinformation sanctioning body.
Free-of Confusion around preservatives and siliconesa. An unanticipated issue around
Further complicating this is the depending on third-party
use of “free of “claims. Brands are a
“Silicones: Rethinking Clean, Safe Beauty,”
manufacturers for free of claims is
using these claims to lure consumers Page 42-45; http://gcimagazine.texterity.com/ the lack of documentation. Often,
into thinking that their products are gcimagazine/february_2019/ when I ask for data on the raw
F-1 A sampling of paraben-free symbols
42

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materials—things like compositional

breakdown, source and purity—the
manufacturer will say that they
need to request the data. What
is disturbing is that often the
manufacturer has been handed a
free of list to use during product
development and has stated that
the formula meets the list. So, the
question is: without data, how are
they signing off? I have had many
clients that have had to reformulate
to meet their free of list.
EU No. 655/2013: the

Beginning of Government
Intervention
The European Union has regulated
and begun enforcing claims in part
due to the popularity of free of claims.
The European Union is the only
government thus far to regulate free of Since Brexit, I have had clients that have had their products stopped in customs and been asked for claims
claims and require specific support for support. Even when valid support has been provided, the shipment has been returned to the brand.
claims. It is a six-pronged approach
(T-2) that is attempting to level the
playing field among brands of all sizes. products because the products were requirements. What is astonishing is
Another reason is for safety. formulated without preservatives or each implies that they are the leader in
The European Union saw two with ineffective natural preservatives. educating the consumer on clean.
dangerous trends emerging. The However, this is having the biggest The reality is that brands should
first was that brands were replacing impact on indie brands that can only be using independent, third-party
parabens with formaldehyde donors, afford to have one global package certification bodies to determine if
methylchloroisothiazolinone, as opposed to bigger brands that a product is clean in the absence
methylisothiazolinone and other have regional packaging that can of government definitions and
preservatives whose safety is in still display free of claims. Further, regulations. I asked an industry insider
question, so they could say “paraben because EU No. 655/2013 is not yet how they would define clean and the
free” on the label. The second was the a regulation, each government is response was the formula is clean if
increase in recalls of contaminated enforcing it differently. For example, it only includes ingredients which
since Brexit, I have had clients that actually provide a benefit. Another felt
have had their products stopped in that a clean formula is one that uses
customs and been asked for claims pure ingredients that do not induce
T-2. EU regulation of claims
support. Even when valid support has a reaction, and yet another felt that
• Legal compliance: free of claims related to been provided, the shipment has been it was defined as all natural. Thus,
complying with the law
returned to the brand. the confusion around what makes a
• Truthfulness: free of claims that are false or
product clean, natural and safe.
unsupported
• Evidential support: whether explicit or implicit, Retailers Exacerbate
claims must have appropriate support Consumer Confusion The Conclusion
• Honesty: free of ingredient claims where the Throughout this series I have In my final article, I will be sharing
ingredient would never be used thoughts on the changes to the industry
mentioned retailer clean lists. Like
• Fairness: free of claims that do not denigrate that I believe will happen over the next
indie brands, retailers are beginning
a competitor’s product or ingredients used in
to copy each other. If compared side- five years. n
the product
• Informed decision-making: allow an informed by-side, most are nearly identical, with
choice to a specific target group or groups of a few exceptions. In most cases, these KAREN YARUSSI-KING is the president of Global
end users lists are just reflective of regulatory Regulatory Associates (www.globalregassociates.com ).
44
Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020

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GCI2004_Herich_fcx.indd 46 3/19/20 10:01 AM

Beauty Gets Personal
—Part 1 of 3: Skin Care
From devices to the microbiome, consumer curiosity
and purchase intent is on the rise.
| BY DENISE HERICH, The Benchmarking Company
A
s a new wave of while 34% raved that their try at home-
personalization for beauty formulating worked wonderfully.
products and experiences Perhaps that explains why 77% would
rolls out, consumers are be interested in buying a skin care
embracing all things product from their favorite brand(s)
personal. In this three- that they could easily have customized/
part series we will take a closer look personalized for them without the
at beauty personalization and the hassle of DIYing at home.
customization trend, what it means to
consumers, and how that translates Personalization Catching Up
“Controlling into actionable insights for beauty
brands and companies who want to
Skin care personalization is
becoming hot, hot, hot. Eight out of
price” is the top add personalization to their offering.
Here, in Part 1, we’ll cover personalized
ten surveyed consumers say they have
purchased personalized skin care, while
benefit most skin care.
To better understand this flourishing
35% report spending, on average, up
to $100 on personalized options. By
often cited (67%) category, The Benchmarking Company contrast, 40% of consumers report
conducted a primary research study spending as much as $100, on average,
by consumers with more than 5,700 U.S. beauty for traditional, non-personalized skin
consumers in October 2019. These are
interested the insights that surfaced.
care. Clearly, personalization is closing
the gap. (Continued on Page 50)
in skin care DIY’s Mixed Results
personalization. Skin care is the category women ABOUT THIS 3-PART SERIES
are most often DIYing, whether
• Part 1: Beauty Gets Personal—Skin Care
by adding an extra ingredient to
(in this issue)
an existing product or mixing two
• Part 2: Beauty Gets Personal—Makeup
products together, with 42% saying
(May 2020 issue)
they have experimented with DIY
• Part 3: Beauty Gets Personal—Hair Care
skin care at home.
(June 2020 issue)
Eight out of ten surveyed consumers have purchased However, that doesn’t mean she was
personalized skin care, while 35% report spending, necessarily happy with the results. Subscribe to access the full series at
on average, up to $100 on personalized options. Sixty-one percent said their DIY www.gcimagazine.com/magazine
experiment was OK but not great,
www.gcimagazine.com Beauty Gets Personal—Part 1: Skin Care 47

GCI_full spread ad.indd 2 3/10/20 10:09 AM
GCI_full spread ad.indd 3 3/10/20 10:09 AM
BEAUTY GETS PERSONAL—PART 1: SKIN CARE
Among surveyed women, 77% would be interested in buying a skin care product from their favorite brand(s) that they could easily have customized/personalized for
them without the hassle of DIYing at home.
(Continued from Page 47)
Personalization Pros consumers are also connecting with T-1. Personalized beauty activities
beauty retailers and online resources used by survey respondents
What’s so appealing about
to find product recommendations
personalization? Top benefits noted Type of online quiz Percent
tailored specifically to their needs.
by surveyed consumers include Skin care 52%
When shopping at a brick and
“controlling price” (67%), “creating Hair care 37%
mortar beauty retailer, 43% have
products that are an exact match to
asked for personal recommendations Color cosmetics 32%
my microbiome/DNA” (65%), and
from store associates. When online, Hair color 26%
“the ability to customize fragrance
52% have taken an online skin care General wellness 26%
or scents” (62%). Other top benefits
quiz to help identify personalized
mentioned include “choosing
product options.
ingredients” (50%), “customizing sizes”
Depending on the product, 77% of Decoding Personalization
(48%) and “formulating my very own Interest
consumers say they trust these kinds of
products” (44%).
online quizzes to suggest products that Consumers are interested in
suit their needs (T-1). Nearly 74% say personalizing just about any skin care
Personalization at Retail they sometimes make a purchase after product they can, but some products
In addition to personalizing taking a quiz, with only 3% saying they seem to be more popular than others.
formulas, scents and bottle sizes, never buy the recommended products. Perhaps because acne is such a difficult
50

and frustrating skin condition to
address, and because consumers want
to know the products they choose
(and use) on their blemishes are going
to work, acne treatments are among
the personalized skin care choices
she’s least interested in trying (40%),
followed by oil-based facial cleanser
(32%) and sleeping masks (18%).
Of personalized skin care she hasn’t
yet used but is interested in trying, high-
dollar items such as skin care devices
(63%) top her list, as well as pore
treatments (60%) and lip treatments
(57%). In addition, 77% are interested
finding a way to have supplements/
ingestibles made specifically for them.
T-2 contains the top personalized
skin care products survey respondents When shopping at a brick-and-mortar beauty retailer, 43% of survey respondents have asked for personal
have used. recommendations from store associates.
Personalization Tech
would let them track the health of their
Along with personalizing skin care, skin (T-3).
42% of
consumers are embracing augmented
reality to help them discover, use,
understand and get the best results Top Opportunity: the
from their favorite products. Microbiome
Although they haven’t tried it yet, Although still a relatively new
respondents
82% of consumers are interested in
having a skin care regimen created
frontier in skin care, most consumers
understand and are aware of the role
said they have
specifically for them; 78% are
interested in a device that would let
the microbiome plays in skin health: experimented
87% self-identified the microbiome
them formulate skin care in their
own home; 76% are interested in
as “the collection of microbes, both with DIY skin
good and bad, that live on and
an augmented reality/smart mirror in the skin, hair and body.” And, care at home.
(in-home or at a store); and 72% are because the microbiome is unique
interested in an app or camera that to each person, the personalization
T-2. Top 10 personalized skin care T-3. Interest in trying personalized skin care devices
products she’s purchased
Device description Very Interested
Number Product
Create a specific skin care regimen just for them 82%
#1 Day cream (with or without SPF)
Let them formulate skin care in their own homes 78%
#2 Night cream
Augmented reality/smart mirror in-home or at a store 76%
#3 Exfoliator
App or camera that would let them track their skin’s health 72%
#4 Eye cream/sunscreen (for face)
Reveal amount of sun damage on skin 60%
#5 Sheet mask
Tell if skin is dehydrated 57%
#6 Toner
#7 Face mask (in a jar) Alert you when to apply sunscreen/if skin was burning 54%
#8 BB/CC cream Measure depth of wrinkles 54%

#9 Water-based cleanser Gauge health of microbiome 49%
#10 Serums/ampoules Measure level of blue light hitting the skin 46%
www.gcimagazine.com Beauty Gets Personal—Part 1: Skin Care 51

BEAUTY GETS PERSONAL—PART 1: SKIN CARE
say they are willing to pay anywhere

from 10% to 30% more!
Curiosity about microbiome
products is the top driver to purchase
(42%), followed by “I read about it in
magazine/saw it on the news” (35%),
“I think products that positively
affect the microbiome are better for
the skin/body than other products”
(30%) and “recommendations from
friends” (28%). The microbiome skin
care brands that consumers are most
familiar include Mother Dirt, Olay,
Aveeno, Curology, Neutrogena, CeraVe,
Tula, and La Roche Posay.
As with any new category in beauty,
barriers to consumer acceptance
exist (T-4). For microbiome products,
cost, lack of education and confusion
over where to purchase are the top
reasons consumers aren’t interested
in purchasing products for the
microbiome. The good news is, as
messaging and category penetration
increases, these current barriers to
The microbiome skin care brands that consumers are most familiar include Mother Dirt, Olay, Aveeno purchase should ease as consumers
and Curology (pictured). become more familiar with the benefits
and reasons to love microbiome skin
care products.
T-4. Inhibitors to microbiome beauty product purchase
Why aren’t you interested in purchasing products for Up Next
Percent
the microbiome? In part two of the “Beauty Gets
Sounds expensive 53% Personal” series, we’ll jump into
I don’t understand it 44% personalized makeup and color
cosmetics, exploring consumer
Don’t know where to purchase 22%
preferences, buying habits, drivers
Current products work fine for me 16%
and more. n
I don’t believe they work 14%
DENISE HERICH is co-founder and

When consumers are buying managing partner at The Benchmarking
opportunity with microbiome-based
Company (www.benchmarkingcompany.
skin care is tremendous. microbiome beauty, it’s skin care they com), which provides marketing and
Although a majority of consumers are purchasing—76% of consumers strategy professionals in the beauty
haven’t yet purchased a beauty product who have purchased microbiome and personal care industries with need-
to-know information about its customers and prospects
to address their microbiome (93%), 82% products bought facial skin care, while
through custom consumer research studies, focus groups,
of consumers say they are interested in 41% bought body skin care. Perhaps its annual PinkReport and consumer beauty product testing
purchasing a skin care product designed most interesting, 62% of consumers for marketing claims. The company’s latest report is The
to positively affect the skin microbiome; would be willing to pay more for a New Age of Naturals, which provides a detailed look at the
U.S. beauty and personal care consumers’ affinity for natural
52% strongly agree it’s important to use product that promised to positively
and organic beauty and personal care products and the
beauty products designed to balance the transform their individual/unique skin motivators and influencers that drive consumers to purchase
skin microbiome. microbiome: three out of 10 consumers more natural and organic products than ever before.
52

The five senses are just one element
of building a consumer experience.
GCI2004_Buziak_fcx.indd 54 3/19/20 11:00 AM

THE BEAUTY
EXPERIENCE
Part 1 of 3: The power of the five senses.
| BY CHERIE BUZIAK, BeautyEdge
“Almost our entire understanding with the brand. What are they going data on how people buy beauty
of the world is experienced through to feel or think? It’s being almost products. Responses were collected
our senses.” obsessive about the experience the from 1,682 U.S. women (aged 18 and
I
–Martin Lindstrom a customer has with the brand—the older) who had purchased makeup or
attitude of ‘I want to be here,’ rather skin care products.
than ‘I have to be hereb.’” One section of the survey focused
n life, it’s all about experience. on how shoppers research and
When attending a concert, it’s Beauty is a Hands-on evaluate beauty products. The data
the emotional feeling of the Category showed that online and mobile
artist that is performing that we platforms help beauty shoppers
Although a consumer may be
seek to embrace. When enjoying discover and evaluate new brands
introduced to a beauty product
a vacation, it’s the thrill of the and products. Yet, in-store remains
digitally, they still prefer to touch
adventure that we hope to obtain. the most common way people
and feel before they purchase. In
When gathering with friends, it’s the research beauty products, with 61%
2018, Accenturec conducted a beauty
feeling of companionship and love that of makeup (versus 36% online)d and
consumer survey, commissioned by
we want to capture. 55% of facial skin care shoppers
Facebook IQ. The goal was to collect
The primary ways we approach the relying on physical locations for in-
creation of an experience through person evaluations.
beauty products is sensorially, by
b
“The Difference Between Customer Service Anyone who spent time in the
And Customer Experience,” www.forbes.com/
translating an experience through beauty department stores this past
sites/blakemorgan/2015/12/30/the-difference-
the five senses—sight, touch, taste, between-customer-service-and-customer- holiday season could easily observe this
smell and hearing. The way we choose experience/#1135e23a5f30
to spark each sense will impact the c
“Understanding the Beauty Shopping Journey d
“3 Beauty Retail Trends to Watch,”
overall experience and shape its of the Connected Consumer,” www.facebook. www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/
emotional landscape. com/business/news/insights/understanding-the- channels/other/3-Beauty-Retail-Trends-to-
beauty-journey-of-the-connected-consumer Watch-503809371.html
Author, speaker and Forbes
columnist, Blake Morgan, defines the
customer experience as “everything the
customer goes through—it’s everything ABOUT THIS 3-PART SERIES
the customer touches, tastes, smells, Author Cherie Buziak will explore the core elements and history of sensory branding,
hears, sees throughout the experience how neurological connections between the brain and our skin affect customer experience,
and how the mindfulness movement creates space for innovation with the power to
a
www.longdom.org/open-access/a-study-on-the- elevate beauty and cosmetics development. Get the whole series by subscribing at
influence-of-senses-and-the-effectiveness-of- www.gcimagazine.com/magazine
sensory-branding-Psychiatry-1000236.pdf
www.gcimagazine.com The Beauty Experience 55

THE BEAUTY EXPERIENCE
F-1 Aesthetic development terminology references for the five senses
F-2 A spider chart outlining the texture evaluations of a Gattefossé expert panel
56

Cherie Buziak on stage at the 2019 Beauty Accelerate conference, at which she presented on beauty and
sensory experiences.
behavior. Shoppers were in-store first There is a tremendous amount of

to evaluate products, with phone in dedicated and intricate work that is
hand to either 1) take a picture of the involved in developing just the right
product so that they could then order experience for the user. F-1, from
at the online store or 2) comparison BeautyEdge LLC, indicates some of
shop the product to see where the best the language used in the aesthetic
pricing deal was landing. Either way, development process that references
they wanted to see and experience the back to the five senses.
product first. F-2, from Gattefossé, shows the
technical evaluation of product
Generating Emotional & performance through spider chart
tracking. The company has expert
Intuitive Responses
panels in France that evaluate textures
According to Marc Gobé, author of
and graph out those evaluations onto a
the book “Emotional Branding,” “Every
spider chart.
brand should contain subliminal codes
Keeping all of this in mind, sensory
that trigger the perception of positive
branding is just one piece to explore
emotions with regard to a producte.”
in the realm of consumer product
A brand’s sensory experience
engagement. There’s more underneath
creates the foundation for strong
the human psyche to delve into as
consumer relationships with the
we continue to develop products that
brand, replacing rational thinking
provide the experiences consumers
with emotional and intuitive
are seeking.
responses. It means consumers who
feel attached to the brand will be
willing to pay more for products. It Next Issue
also means repeat purchases. Up next, we’ll continue this series
by digging deeper into the consumer’s
experience of beauty products via the
e
Allworth (2010) mind-skin interface. n
www.gcimagazine.com The Beauty Experience 57

SUSTAINABLE
PACKAGING
DECODED
Finding your path amid plastic, glass, paper, refillables and more.
Glass, plastic and paper—understanding the challenges and advantages of materials can help brands forge their sustainability plans.
GCI2004_APC_fcx.indd 58 3/19/20 11:14 AM

| BY ROBERT BULLA and SHANNA JOHNS, APC Packaging
“W
hat components truly answered until we know what depleted or permanently damaged.”
do you have that sustainability means to the client who This only gets us so far in the
are sustainable?” is asking the question. packaging conversation.
This is the most Note that the definition does not
frequently asked say “only glass is good and plastic is
question that our sales representatives
What Does it Mean to Be bad, except for PCR (post-consumer
are hearing. In these interactions, Sustainable? recycled) material,” or “paper is better
the client is under the assumption The Merriam-Webster definition than plastic.” Therefore, a balance is
that the question will be followed by of “sustainable” is “of, relating to, or required, not only in the approach but
a very simple answer. Unfortunately, being a method of harvesting or using how it fits your brand’s DNA.
we believe the question cannot be a resource so that the resource is not
SUSTAINABLE SCENT Q&A: FLORAL STREET

Floral Street is a flower-inspired, clean and sustainable fragrance brand with
launches like Ylang Ylang Espresso (pictured), London Poppy Eau de Parfum (fresh,
citrusy) and Neon Rose Eau de Parfum (jasmine and roses). Global Cosmetic
Industry recently spoke with founder Michelle Feeney about how the brand delivers
on sustainability throughout its brand design.
Q: How has Floral Street infused sustainable and clean ideals into
its products?
Feeney: When I launched our British fragrance brand two years ago, vegan and
sustainability were at the heart from the very beginning. Vegan symbolizes caring
about the impact on the planet, so our ingredients are sustainably sourced and our
packaging is recyclable, reusable and compostable.
Accredited by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), our cruelty-free
perfumes are a modern take on florals, and each 50 ml is tucked inside a sustain-
able carton made from recyclable fiber pulp packaging, a first in fine fragrance.
The fibers come from trees that are fully certified by the FSC (Forest Stewardship
Council), who promote responsible management of the world’s forests. Floral Street’s Ylang Ylang Espresso fragrance.
It [the carton design] is recyclable and naturally biodegradable, leaving no trace
even if it were to end up in landfill. Additionally, the energy used to make the box
is proven to be significantly less than that of other packaging materials, going from
wet pulp to finished box in less than a minute.
This is the responsible alternative to the traditional plastic cartons or foam inserts
that usually encase perfumes. We also use vegetable and soy-based inks, and our
printing plates are laser-etched—no chemicals are used and they are later recycled.
Q: How does the brand communicate its sustainability journey

with consumers?
Feeney: The PETA bunny symbol, which we have been awarded, is now
widely recognized and has become a global touchpoint that crosses borders and
languages. We also display the FSC symbol, and the World Land Trust association
highlights the carbon offsetting through our board purchases.
“Our cruelty-free perfumes are a modern take on florals, and
This is an incredible scheme that protects endangered habitats around the world. each 50 ml is tucked inside a sustainable carton made from
The more board we buy for our packaging, the more carbon we offset. Consumers recyclable fiber pulp packaging, a first in fine fragrance,” says
can find these symbols directly on our packaging, our website and our Instagram. n Floral Street founder, Michelle Feeney.
www.gcimagazine.com Sustainable Packaging Decoded 59

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING DECODED
A–ETHER BEAUTY & MAKEUP’S SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE
C
olor cosmetics drive an immense
amount of waste and therefore
–
present a significant sustain-
ability challenge, says Tiila Abbitt,
Aether Beauty is working
founder of makeup brand A– ether Beauty. to address the impact of
For instance, makeup packaging often isn’t
desirable for recycling because it comprises e-commerce-related shipping
mixed materials, as seen in compacts and
eyeshadow palettes. The segment also uses with carbon offsets.
copious amounts of black plastic, which often
cannot be picked up by conveyor belt sensors
in recycling centers and therefore ends up
in landfills. In addition, any recovered black palettes are fully recyclable with the prior limitations of materials, such as how little
plastic can only be used to create more black removal of eyeshadow pans and elastic band biodegradable plastic is actually processed
plastic, limiting its utility in the post-con- closure. The design already purposely omits (rather than going to landfill), as well as the
sumer phase. One brand is addressing these the incorporation of a mirror or magnet challenges of recycling.
problems one-by-one. closure, which would inhibit proper recycling. A complete cycle view is critical to sup-
The launch of A–ether Beauty’s 12-color Future palettes will have no elastic band, port sustainability goals, Abbitt says. In that
Radiant Ruby Lip Crème line at Sephora marks Abbitt says, further boosting the product’s respect, formulation is the easiest piece of the
the prestige beauty industry’s first fully recy- sustainability. puzzle, she says. Packaging is what holds up
clable lip component. Radiant Ruby Lip Crème a product launch.
(retailing for $28.00) features 100% PCR PET Taking a holistic view For example, sourcing was the most critical
(the most widely recyclable plastic), including Abbitt spent more than seven years obstacle to A– ether Beauty introducing a foun-
the lid, wiper, wand and tube, while the outer at Sephora, eventually taking the role of dation. Because pumps are not recyclable
box comprises 100% recyclable FSC-certified sustainability lead for Sephora Collection. In and are standard for conventional foundation
paper printed with water-based soy inks. The that role, she worked closely with packaging products, Abbitt needed to find an alternate
soft applicator does have to be snipped off and engineers to understand the realities and solution. She now says that the brand has
disposed of—the one tiny component of the finally landed on a foundation design that is
design that goes to landfill. “elevated” and which features an applicator
Sourcing PCR feedstock for such designs for a differentiated application experience.
is difficult, says Abbitt, because the second- That SKU will be out some time in 2021.
ary market hasn’t kept sufficiently up with
demand. She expects that this will improve as Indie beauty’s sustainability
coordination among China, the United States challenge
and Southeast Asian nations boosts collection Abbitt pointed out that many eco-friendly
from wastestreams. packaging options aren’t affordable for many
Available in 12 colors, the range is a super- indies, though some technology is trickling
hydrating blend that falls between a full-color into the space, particularly in the form of
–
liquid lip and a wet lip gloss. Its core ingredi- stock offerings. While Aether has partnered
ents include organic rose hip oil, which adds with Terracycle’s recycling program, wherein
hydration and moisture; elderberry fruit and consumers mail in their evacuated products
plumeria flower oil extracts, which also hydrate for disassembly and recycling, Abbitt views
the lips; and ruby powder, which nurtures and this as an incremental move.
softens the lips while protecting them against She describes refillables as good “from a
environmental stressors. business perspective,” though anecdotally
Abbitt notes that Sephora uses her brand retailers don’t find them selling quite as well.
A-ether Beauty’s 12-color Radiant Ruby Lip
as a “gold standard” for eco design. For Crème line at Sephora marks the prestige beauty In addition, Abbitt finds that many refillable
instance, A– ether Beauty’s current paper industry’s first fully recyclable lip component. concepts are not sustainably designed. And,
60

Claims, Confusion and Live addsc, “Paper bags … take more
Education energy to manufacture than plastic,
according to some measures.”
Determining this balance for
Additionally, not all cities recycle
your brand should be simple, right?
glass. A 2018 Recovery Worldwide
Unfortunately, what we find is a
ultimately, some portion of the product ends report notedd, “Global recycling
multitude of claims about being
up in a landfill. volumes are currently estimated to be
“green,” “eco-friendly,” “refillable”
Because of the demands of sustainability, around 27 Mta, which represents only
or “sustainable.” In addition, the
Abbitt says she ideates in a relatively slow 21% of the amount of glass produced.
confusion of what can and cannot be
fashion and designs some palettes with large The highest recycling rates are
recycled makes it incredibly difficult
fills to last three or four years. (Of course, achieved for container glass, with an
for brands to determine what balance
retailers don’t really like makeup products estimated 32%, while the recycling rate
is best for them.
with such long lives, she adds.) for flat glass is only 11%.”
For example, have you tried eating
Brands must ask themselves if
only organic? It’s not as easy as one
Communicating sustainability would assume, and it tends to be quite
turning away from plastic automatically
Abbitt describes herself as the client she’s assists them in the maintenance of their
expensive. We find being sustainable
designing for and develops products through eco balance.
in the packaging arena can feel just as
that lens. That said, she adds, “You can’t daunting and expensive. Thankfully,
please everyone,” including herself. The we believe educating brands can help
The Perception Challenge
founder keeps a weekly blog to share the sort through the many myths and There is also a major difference
brand’s sustainability journey, to communicate inaccuracies surrounding sustainability. between the perception of
with the public and to field the common ques- sustainability and a true initiative of
tions she gets from consumers. Critically, she sustainability. For example, brands
says, she never claims to be the know-all, be- The Plastic Myth and consumers love the look and idea
all expert on sustainability and understands To illustrate the complexity of of bamboo on packaging. It screams
that some people will never be satisfied with decisions, it’s important to note “sustainable,” “organic,” “eco-friendly,”
the brand’s eco-friendly achievements. that reducing plastic usage may not “all-natural” and “green.”
decrease your carbon footprint if you And, yes, bamboo or natural wood
Carbon offsets for shipping include more paper or glass. materials are sustainable, but once
A–ether Beauty is working to combat the According to a 2019 explainer from they are paired with a plastic cap or
impact of e-commerce-related shipping with Envirotech Online, “[A]s long as aluminum bottle, they are no longer
carbon offsets. The offsets cost less than plastic is responsibly recycled, [the] easily recyclable. For instance, if
$1.00 per order. Abbitt is currently experi- problem [of landfill waste] evaporates. a bamboo overshell is glued onto
menting with the optional add-on to see how Moreover, the process it takes to create plastic cap and is placed into the
many shoppers use it. Ultimately, the adoption a plastic bottle is far less intense than recycle bin, it will not be recycled in
of offsets will be driven by the client. that which goes into the production most municipalities. It will instead
of its glass counterpart, meaning be diverted to the landfill since it is a
Combatting returns & sample that plastic has a far smaller carbon mixed material and the wood cannot
waste footprint than glassa.” be easily separated from the plastic
Like many direct-to-consumer brands, Glass and paper require even more part and sorted properly.
A–ether Beauty is boosting its physical retail energy to not only convert from
presence at more Sephora doors, as well as recycling streams, but also cost more Sustainability
Sephora Inside JC Penney. Physical retail may to convert back into a package. Going
Considerations by Material
lower a brand’s margins on sales, but they Zero Waste notesb, “Glass is heavier
We understand how confusing this
also lower their carbon footprint per sale by than plastic, and breaks much easier
topic is and how many choices and
lowering the return rate. In-store experiences during transit. This means it produces
possible trade-offs or compromises you
can help brands like A–ether Beauty avoid the more emissions in transportation
and your brand may have to endure.
scourge of online customers swatching a than plastic, and costs more to
product once received and then immediately transport.” And a report from Oregon (Continued on Page 66)
returning it. Abbitt is also wary of samples, c
Michael Milstein, “Which bag is best:
which can boost waste due to shipping and a
www.envirotech-online.com/news/business- Paper or plastic?” www.zoregonlive.com/
the fact that anything smaller than a credit news/44/breaking-news/glass-vs-plastic-which- environment/2007/05/paper_or_plastic_which_
card will not be recycled. n bottles-are-worse/48297 is_best.html
b
www.goingzerowaste.com/blog/which-is- d
www.recovery-worldwide.com/en/artikel/glass-
better-for-the-environment-glass-or-plastic recycling-current-market-trends_3248774.html

FROM THE EDITORS: SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING ROUNDUP
Aptar Beauty + Home, North America, is converting its locally pro-

duced stock black closure portfolio, which is currently offered in
50-100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) resin, to 100% PCR. This
includes snap tops, tube tops and disc tops for beauty, personal
C
care and home care applications. The PCR line for North America
i
will be manufactured in local manufacturing facilities “to allow
fi
close control over the source and FDA-approved materials,” per a
a
company announcement.
SoapBottle was created by independent product designer Jonna Breitenhuber, s
Around the time of 100% PCR announcement, AptarGroup. Inc.
based in Berlin, whose goal was to come up with a zero-waste alternative to w
announced that it was acquiring FusionPKG, a producer of airless
plastic bottles. These simple and colorful soap-based containers are reportedly v
and color cosmetics packaging and conception-to-launch turnkey
made from natural ingredients and hold other liquid soaps such as shampoo, solutions for the North American beauty market. FusionPKG,
shower gel and hand soap. Consumers can refill the soap container by cutting headquartered in Dallas, has offices in New York and Los Angeles
a corner off of using an integrated, reusable metal closure. This closure also and manufacturing operations in New Jersey and China.
helps to control pouring of the product during use. A hole carved in the top of
the product is intended to accommodate a string to be threaded through to
hang and store the product without too much mess.
When the container is empty, the packaging itself can be used as a hand
or body soap, or, with the addition of specified ingredients, create a laundry
detergent. The soap bottle is also able to gradually dissolve over time—so
waste can be completely avoided.
A
s
T
f
Epopack Co. Ltd. offers sustainable innovations, including

PET heavy wall bottles and jars, 100% PCR (post-
consumer recycled) PET bottles (pictured) and jars, and
PP/AS/PETG airless bottles. PCR PET is collected from
residential recycling systems or after-market recycling
systems and is an environmentally sustainable solution
for reusing single-use materials that would otherwise
Orchard Custom Beauty’s Natural Bliss collection at Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA, be disposed in landfill sites. PET is also recyclable with
featured environmentally friendly designs with minimal packaging materials and international recycle code number 1. Epopack’s products
waterless formulations. Products under the concept included a paperboard palette can be highly customized with attachment options and a
(pictured), an eyebrow scrub, brow soap tint, coconut wood brush set and more. variety of decoration services.
62

HCP’s EcoLab designs include, from left, a Standard Mascara featuring a 100% R-
ABS cap, 100% R-PET bottle, PBT rod, and LDPE wiper and Wave Hourglass brush; a
Standard Lip Gloss with 100% R-ABS cap, 100% R-PET bottle, and LDPE wiper and
paddle applicator and POM rod; a 30 ml Radii Tottle with 100% R-ABS cap, 100%
Cosmopak’s Terra Collection at MakeUp/Luxe Pack in LA R-PP inner cap, 100% R-HDPE bottle and LDPE nozzle; and a 15 ml Astra Tottle with
included eco-friendly packaging, including PCR options, a re- 100% R-PP cap, 100% R-HDPE bottle and LDPE nozzle.
fillable jar and airless pump, and paper and glass materials. It HCP produces custom and stock packs in PCR resins of ABS, PE, PP and PET
also featured Clean at Sephora-compliant formulas, including materials. The percentage of PCR in each design may vary depending on material,
sparkling Space Pudding eyeshadow, a long-wearing, vegan, process and clients’ tolerance for design compromises.
water-resistant mascara including quinoa extract in a PCR In addition, the company is now able to leverage its bio-based EcoWood resin for
vial, as well as a refillable lipstick using plant-based waxes. custom tooling that is 100% plastic-free. EcoWood is an FSC-certified bio-based
plastic containing Finnish reforestation-derived wood fiber, cellulose and vegetal
waxes. The material is available in bio-based recyclable or industrially compostable
grades. Critically, it features a high degree of clarity. The first custom tool featuring
EcoWood will be coming out later in 2020.
At MakeUp in Los Angeles, FusionPKG unveiled its latest APC Packaging’s patent-pending Airless Refillable System utilizes polypropylene,
sustainable packaging with a focus on green airless and PCR. while its Refillable Jar comprises PET and PP throughout the entire system and
The manufacturer’s assortment offers brands a variety of eco- can be manufactured with PCR to reduce its environmental impact. Both designs
friendly options without sacrificing excellence or performance. feature disposable and replaceable inner cartridges.
Schwarzkopf has partnered with TerraCycle to make its

retail hair care, color and styling products recyclable
nationwide in the United States. This allows consumers to
collect and mail-in empty product packaging from brands
such as göt2b styling & color, Color Ultime, Keratin Color
and the newly launched Simply Color. Parent company
Henkel aims to make all of its beauty packaging recyclable,
reusable or compostable by 2025.

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING ROUNDUP (CONT.)
Faber-Castell Cosmetics’ Nature@Heart collection for Skintellectuals pairs

minimalistic clean formulas and sustainable PEFC-certified wood packaging
and plant-based plastic caps. The company’s Pure² formula features only about
one-third of the number of ingredients found in equivalent conventional formula- Wellnesse Whitening Toothpaste is formulated
tions, according to Faber-Castell. The collection features natural waxes and oils, with calcium carbonate, peppermint, stevia
globally compliant and vegan formulations, and on-trend materials such as CBD, leaf and green tea leaf extract and comes in
hemp seed and watermelon oil. The Lupuna, Wimba and Corcora formulations are compostable sugarcane packaging that is both
pigment-rich and gentle to the skin due to the inclusion of hydrating natural oils. recyclable and commercially compostable.
HCT Group introduced its Misfit Tottle at MakeUp in LA 2020. The company
showcased additional innovations, including its lipstick box, which included five
formulations featuring the lipstick format with different finishes and packaged
in HCT Group’s aluminum refillable design.
HCT Group also highlighted its Eco Modern Approach (EMA), which comprises
four classes of sustainable packaging solutions, including those comprising
bio-sourced and PCR materials, as well as packaging designed for refills or
easy recycling. Some of the latest innovations from this program include an
Eco PET lip gloss, lipstick, refillable airless pen, palette and PP dropper.
In addition, to address the needs of indie and fast beauty brands, HCT Group
highlighted its stock packaging for color cosmetics and skin care, including
the Pillar Tube, Slim Twist Foundation, Oval 2-in-1 mascara and liner, Precision
Dropper, Duo Setting Stick, and TM Dropper.
Hermès has entered the color

cosmetics market with the launch
of Rouge Hermès, a line of refillable
lipsticks. The line is available in
24 shades with matte and satin
textures and comprises natural
ingredients such as beeswax and
white mulberry extract. The lipsticks
retail for $71, with refills costing
refillable metal packaging for the Anomatic’s all-aluminum and glass stock packaging features
line. According to the WSJ article, patent-pending, 100% recyclable jar systems that include a
the lipsticks will retail for $67, with one-piece anodized aluminum jar lid designed with threads
refills costing $47. The brand will for direct application to glass jars, two-piece all-aluminum jar
reportedly launch a new cosmetics lids with glass jar pairings and all-aluminum jar systems. The
category every six months. use of aluminum and glass allow for easy recyclability and
wide-ranging customization, according to the company.
64

1
At Luxe Pack LA, Albéa highlighted Greenleaf (1; at center), a barrier

laminate tube produced in a one-step manufacturing process and designed 2
to be recyclable in the HDPE bottle stream. The tube, manufactured in the
company’s American, European and Asian facilities, will soon be pairable with
a PE cap that may allow brands to do without secondary packaging.
Albéa and Colgate-Palmolive collaborated on the Albéa also presented its PCR solutions (1; at right), including a tube called
Smile for Good toothpaste launch, featuring a tube Max PCR with 62% PCR; the Beautiful PCR with 4% PCR, which has good
made with high-density polyethylene (HDPE), which whiteness due to an external layer of virgin material; and the Ultimate PCR,
is made from a single-blown film manufactured by comprising 62% PCR, 25% bio-based materials and no virgin plastic.
Albéa. HDPE is a polymer that is widely used for milk The company also featured its (Re)flex tube (2), a recyclable laminate tube
containers and other plastic bottles and is widely with a silver-metallized/aluminum-like look. Its thin inner layer metallization
recycled. The tube is the first to be recognized as allows the tube to be detected as recycled in the recycling stream. The tube
recyclable by the Association of Plastic Recyclers has been assessed recyclable by Suez Cirpack (75% recyclable, Class A).
(APR) and RecyClass, an initiative that works on Finally, Albéa highlighted its acquisition of Orchard Custom Beauty to
improving the recyclability of packaging, which boost its turnkey solutions for color cosmetics, bath products and accesso-
sets recyclability standards for North America and ries collections. Albéa also touted its 23.1% stake in 3D technology innovation startup Erpro 3D
Europe, respectively. Factory, which recently supported the design of the Le Volume Revolution 3D mascara brushes
for Chanel. The partnership enhances Albéa’s personalized cosmetic packaging capabilities for
creative shapes for color cosmetics packaging, fragrance caps, skin care jars and more. It also
supports exclusive collections and scale-up, as well as last-minute personalization with offline
decoration and surface treatment for unique combinations of colors and textures.
Codex Beauty leverages recyclable plant-based polyethylene tubes

extracted from Brazilian sugarcane agricultural waste. The reduction
in carbon footprint ranges from about 50% to 80%, depending on
the size of the tube, compared to conventional counterparts. The
brand also uses paper comprising renewable fiber that has garnered
Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC). In
addition, all Codex tubes carry the Carbon Footprint Standard’s
CO2 e Assessed Product stamp of approval, demonstrating low
carbon credentials.
Ren Clean Skincare’s EverCalm Global Protection Day Cream

moisturizer is packaged with SABIC’s certified recycled plastic
drawn from waste otherwise destined for incineration or landfill. JSN’s Green Polymer tube features plant-based and PCR
This Infinity Recycling system uses heat and pressure to break resins and light-weighted design elements for the cap and
down plastic waste into its molecular building blocks to produce tube. All components are produced and decorated at the same
high-quality transparent plastic that is identical to virgin plastic, facility to further enhance sustainability. The packaging design
according to the manufacturer. The material is more costly than can reinforce brands’ sustainable positioning in the general
conventional counterparts and is paid by the brand, not its market or even in the cannabis beauty space.
consumers. Wider adoption of the tech will of course bring
costs down.


So, to help you decide on the best
sustainable packaging option for your
F-1 The seven recycling codes for plastics
brand, we’ve put together a sustainability
primer to bring some clarification on
the different material options.
Paper
Is paper recyclable? Yes. That
was an easy one. However, paper
consumes more fresh water and
adds up to three times more carbon
emissions into the air over its full
lifecycle, compared to plastic.
A Clean Water Action post notese,
“[T]he production of paper bags is
much more resource intensive in
terms of energy and water. About
The one thing people seem to earlier, whether it is a city choosing
10% more energy is used to produce
forget is that all thermoplastics are not to recycle glass or a consumer not
a paper bag versus a plastic one,
recyclable, but only about 9% of putting it in the right bin, statistically
and about four times as much water.
what we make is actually processedg. only about 30% of glass gets recycled.
Although recycled paper can be used,
Thermoplastic materials can go from This is technically better than plastics,
it takes even more energy and water
raw virgin material to a converted but still a far cry from our communities
to go through the recycling process
part and back again to a form from being good stewards of our planet.
than virgin material, and the finished
which it can be converted again, just Likewise, it is important to note that
product is less durable.”
like paper or glass. Sadly, there have glass is the only material that uses
How many times have you heard
only been seven true recycle codes for color to segregate what is recycled
about a plastic bag ban? We must
plastics, as shown in F-1. and what is not. These colors are
remember that the plastic bag
Many in the industry are asking for recyclable: amber, clear, green and
problem has resulted from the public’s
PCR materials from the seven recycling light pink. These colors are not: white,
misuse of the bags (littering) and
codes. However, there are also PIR opal white and any additional shades
the lack of recycling of these fully
(post-industrial recycled) materials not mentioned elsewhere, as well as
recyclable materials.
available, which are simply leftover mirrored glass.
Again, questions of balance must
scrap from production that is used in Glass is also heavy, compared to
be raised.
another manufacturing process. These plastic. As Going Zero Waste noted,
materials never entered the consumer transportation costs and the amount
Plastic stream and therefore skipped right to of carbon released can go up with the
Plastics have gotten a bad rap for recycling. In many cases, it is much shipping of glass.
some good reasons and some not easier and affordable to use PIR. Both
so good ones. Since the early 1950s, PIR and PCR stop plastic materials Bioplastic/Compostable Materials
the world has produced more than from damaging our environment and Biodegradable plastic made from
8.3 billion tons of plastic, 60% of stop plastics from piling up in landfills. polylactic acid (PLA) and other bio-type
which has ended up in landfills and
materials sound promising. However,
the natural environment, according Glass PLA doesn’t appear to degrade under
to United Nations dataf. Today, the
Glass, which is made from silica any measurable criteria in 365 days
planet still produces 300 million tons
sand, can be endlessly be recycled. It is in a simulated marine environment
of plastic waste annually. This waste
important to note, however, that we are complete with sand, microbiota and
can adversely impact wildlife, natural
using silica sand faster than our planet 30°C temperature.
habitats and even drinking water.
can replenish it in the near-term. For example, a Cal Recycle
And, like plastic, we are not recycling publication noted one studyh in which
e
www.cleanwateraction.org/2018/06/25/ enough glass. Like we mentioned plastic poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-
paper-or-plastic-why-answer-should-be- 3-hydroxyvalerate (PHBV) and PLA
%E2%80%9Cneither%E2%80%9D g
FAQs on Plastics, https://ourworldindata.org/
www.unenvironment.org/interactive/beat-
f
faq-on-plastics#how-much-of-global-plastic- h
“PLA and PHA Biodegradation in the Marine
plastic-pollution/ is-recycled Environment,” www2.calrecycle.ca.gov
66

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Th retrograde
The d refillable
fill bl compact iis designed
d i d with
i h a rear loading
l di
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godet t ll i customers
allowing t tto create
t th i own iinspired
their i d
color palettes. Made of recycled material, this refillable compact
fits perfectly into any sustainable story. Exclusively by WWP.
VISIT US AT LUXE PACK NEW YORK! BOOTH D-06
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bottles were placed in marine water in Reuse and the viability of incorporating
to “observe disintegration over time.” As we mentioned earlier, it has meaningful levels of PCR materials all
The report explained, “The bottles did been maintained that the longer you must be reviewed before a final strategy
not exhibit any disintegration after 144 use a product, the better it is for the is determined.
days,” and the PHBV bottle “partially environment. So, a natural progression
disintegrated in the ocean water after would be to use materials that are Finding Your Way
365 days but was still intact.” The PLA actively being recycled and develop a
As you can see, there are numerous
bottle did not appear significantly package that can be re-used.
paths that can be taken. Looking at
changed after 365 days, per photos This can be done with formats such
them rationally and deciding which
provided in the report. as refillable bottles or refillable jars
solution or solutions suit your brand
In a landfill environment, you are made from materials such as PCR,
is the best way to start. In the end,
looking at anywhere from 100 to 1,000 as well as those that can be recycled.
the best thing we all can do is lower
years before PLA and similar materials The lifecycle of the bulk and package,
or stop using anything designed
would break down, depending on the as well as the number of times it will
for single use, educate ourselves
ambient environment. All the necessary be reused, are necessary factors to
continually and develop a plan that is
ingredients to start degradation are not consider to ensure this is a sustainable
right for your brand. n
present. Certain levels of oxygen, water, fit for your brand.
and a temperature approaching 140°F Reuse of packages designed for
must be maintained to start and finish multiple uses comes with some ROBERT BULLA is the director of engineering
the degradation processi. challenges as well, however. Cost, and innovation; SHANNA JOHNS is the director
leveraging intuitive designs that will of business development of APC Packaging (https://
“The Misleading Biodegradability of PLA,”
i
apcpackaging.com/ ).
not confuse your customer base, how
www.filabot.com/blogs/news/57233604-the-
misleading-biodegradability-of-pla
much of the design can be recycled
68

Supplier and manufacturer partnerships can help brands
stand out and keep projects on schedule.
GCI2004_Doyle_fcx.indd 70 3/19/20 11:24 AM

5 WAYS
TO STAY
COMPETITIVE
How successful packaging and manufacturing partnerships can lead to success.
| BY LISA DOYLE
I
n the January 2020 issue, I with contract manufacturers,
touched on the advantages of packaging firms and fillers.
1.
contract manufacturers for indie
brands and how a fledgling line Keep an eye on trends
can benefit from their wealth
Savvy packaging firms will
of expertisea. I also noted that
always provide more than just
the current market has been
a package. They’ll be a trend
favorable for independent brands, as
resource and partner in ensuring that
more and more have exploded into the
your brand message comes through via
beauty marketplace with enthusiasm,
the package’s look and feel.
glamour, talent and, most importantly,
“To stay one step ahead of your
products that work. But there’s a catch.
competition, brands need partners Among the highlights of Cosmopak’s offerings are
There are two sides to every coin: with its Terra Collection, which includes eco-friendly
with a keen eye for trends and
the proliferation of direct-to-consumer packaging, including PCR options, a refillable jar
directional design,” says Cheryl
brands comes more competition in the and airless pump, and paper and glass materials.
Morgan, creative marketing manager,
beauty marketplace, greater difficulty in
HCP Packaging. “HCP’s trend analysis
differentiation and less room to fail.
and prediction can pinpoint key looks brand identity—contract packagers are
“With the competitiveness of the
and concepts for upcoming seasons. delivering options that their customer
beauty space growing, it is important
And, our international design team base needs.
to not only set yourself apart from
are dedicated to providing customized Among the highlights of Cosmopak’s
a product perspective, but it is
solutions for brands, bringing together offerings are its Terra Collection,
imperative to help mitigate setbacks
a perfect blend of beauty and function featured at MakeUp/Luxe Pack in
in the product development and
while also understanding specific LA, which included eco-friendly
launch process,” explains Rosie Foster,
regional requirements.” packaging, including PCR options,
cofounder of Beauty Blueprint.
Morgan speaks from experience, as a refillable jar and airless pump,
So, let’s talk about how brands large
HCP’s clients include everyone from and paper and glass materials. The
ds and small can not only survive but
London-based Charlotte Tilbury to collection included Clean at Sephora-
thrive through successful partnerships
brands within Japan’s Shiseido. compliant formulas, including
With the emphasis on green and sparkling Space Pudding eyeshadow,
a
“How the Beauty Industry is Evolving Around a vegan water-resistant mascara in a
sustainable packaging only growing
Indies,” Pages 19-26, January 2020; http://
each year—and many newer brands PCR vial, as well as a refillable lipstick
gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/
january_2020/ focusing on sustainability in their using plant-based waxes.
(Continued on Page 74)
www.gcimagazine.com 5 Ways to Stay Competitive 71

5 WAYS TO STAY COMPETITIVE
NEW PACKAGING ROUNDUP
Yonwoo/PKG’s 19 diameter Flat Tip Tube

features a see-through tip.
JSN’s Aura tube comprises cosmetic quality barrier technology

that incorporates direct high-resolution printing that can
support photorealistic images, according to the manufacturer. Yonwoo/PKG’s 19 diameter Clear Tip Tube is
Artwork and images may be extended over the shoulder of the optimal for concealer or any color formula.
tube and under the cap.
APC Packaging’s fine mist sprayers dispense a shorter, smoother

and softer mist than conventional mist sprayers. Ideal for personal
care and cosmetics products, the company’s catalog includes the
DP612 line (pictured).
Cosmopak’s Square Glass Vial, Crystal Acrylic Vial,

Trim Line Aluminum Lipstick and Thick Wall Acrylic Yonwoo/PKG’s 30 diameter Clear Pump tube has a peekaboo ring
Vial designs (top and bottom). around the collar and is ideal for foundation or any color formula.
72

Baralan’s elegant Minerva line offers functionality and simplicity. Featuring cylindrical
and rounded shapes, the range includes glass jars and bottles with capacities of 5 ml
to 100 ml that are compatible with products such as skin care and color cosmetics and
which include an array of necks that can be adjusted for various accessories.
Fusion PKG’s Amp Dropper features a controlled dosing
system for skin care and color formulas, featuring a flexible
button at the bottom of the package. Controlled dosing
supports minimal air exposure for sensitive formulas and on-
the-go-friendly single-handed dispensing. The Amp Dropper
can be paired with turnkey formulations from FusionPKG’s
library for a quick-to-market solution.
Cosmopak’s luxury mascara packaging

with Squeeze-Control in gold. Cosmopak’s Square Magnetic
Vial with Neck, VPF024, forms
Yonwoo/PKG’s Simple Look Pump jumbo actuator has a an airtight closure for products
locking actuator and a 0.5 dosage. like lip gloss.
Yonwoo/PKG’s PP Wave Neck Jar is easily customizable and APC Packaging offers an assortment of stock and custom droppers,
available in a 30 ml and 50 ml iteration. including child-resistant closures and tamper-resistant designs.
Pictured is the company’s MVDV line of droppers.

2.
Strategic stock
packaging
In an effort to stand out,
a new brand’s first impulse
may be to customize every last detail
of their line’s look. However, a well-
established manufacturer will have an
extensive and ever-growing library of
stock options to suit the needs of every
customer.
“HCT has the largest stock library in
the industry and we constantly offer
new innovation throughout the year,
which gives each brand the ability
to launch unique products,” says
From left: Gavin Collier, CEO of Dynamic Blending, and his partner and co-founder, Jordan Erskine, president.
Winnie Sung, VP of sales, HCT Group.
“We focus on all types of innovation,
whether it’s new delivery systems,
of items and feature cover and cap manufacturer can reduce these issues
decoration on primary componentry,
recesses that can incorporate a and unburden a brand. This has
new unique component designs,
decorative feature such as a dome, become ever more important as speed-
formulations or industry solutions.”
diamond, textile, gel or completely to-market continues to be a significant
Plus, a supplier will often have
custom top-plate.” factor for brands looking to dive into
unparalleled ability to mix and match
3.
the marketplace.
its offerings seamlessly for you.
“This is the beauty of stock Stay on schedule “A significant portion of our
As any new brand knows, business involves helping our clients
packaging—it is highly versatile, and
a launch has the potential to stay nimble and flexible with their
the timeless designs can be reinvented
be fraught with hiccups, red product supply or helping keep
time and time again,” says Morgan.
tape and hurdles. A partnership with their new product launch timing
“Ranges such as HCP’s Radii Square
a great packaging partner or contract on schedule,” says Mark Hinkel, VP
and Round have a wide selection
of sales and marketing for contract
manufacturer Accupac. “We work
with product launches to optimize
manufacturing, lower costs, and keep
launches on track so that their overall
business strategy isn’t affected. Our
goal is always to offer our inherent
knowledge to our customers so we can
help them get to market faster.”
4.
Tap industry
experience
Knowing what mistakes to
avoid and how processes can
be improved are important qualities in a
manufacturing partner. Jordan Erskine,
president of Utah-based contract
manufacturer Dynamic Blending, and
his partner, Gavin Collier, the company’s
CEO, co-founded their organization
based on their combined years of
“Ranges such as HCP’s Radii Square and Round have a wide selection of items and feature cover and cap
manufacturing and R&D experience,
recesses that can incorporate a decorative feature such as a dome, diamond, textile, gel or completely with an eye toward getting right what so
custom top-plate,” says Cheryl Morgan, creative marketing manager, HCP Packaging. many others had gotten wrong.
74

Dynamic Blending offers product that unlock tools and resources, create a joint effort, he says, allowing
development and manufacturing bestows preferred unit costs and brands to launch products affordably
services from concept to R&D to brand priority manufacturing, generates R&D and invest freed up capital back into
design to manufacturing to packaging savings, and more. Collier explains their companies.
and fulfillment for startups, small that Dynamic Blending is an equity Collier and Erskine realized that
businesses and select large customers. stakeholder in select partners who, in high minimums were a problem for
It also operates a joint venture program return, receive enhanced access to the small brands. As a result, Dynamic
that creates partnerships with brands company’s resources. These agreements Blending’s minimum order quantities
begin at 1,000. In addition, many
contract manufacturers are secretive
regarding R&D and therefore don’t
disclose formulas. Dynamic Blending
instead bestows ownership of finished
formulas to its clients as part of
its manufacturing package. These
customized formulations help bring
clients’ visions to life, whether based
on a hero ingredient or specific
positioning. And, because the brands
own the final IP of the formula, they’re
motivated to truly innovate.
Customers stay with the
organization because of these benefits,
the founders say, as well as because
of the company’s manufacturing
prowess. The executives’ past
experience also shaped the way
Dynamic Blending handles pricing,
customer billing, inventory and
One relatively new brand working with FusionPKG is Cannuka, a skin care brand blending crystallized CBD more, allowing the company to be a
isolate and New Zealand manuka honey.
true partner to brands and facilitate
growth. The result has been more than
600% growth over the last two years,
with 2019 sales topping $20 million.
Erskine and Collier argue that
turnkey services free up founders to
focus on growing their business rather
than procurement and other logistical
issues where they may have less
experience. It also allows them to get
to market as fast as possible without
slowdowns related to tasks such as art
and label development.
Contract manufacturers can help
a client control the process in-house,
overcome roadblocks and simplify
supply chain issues. Dynamic Blending
creates flexibility in lead times by
getting creative with external supply
chains, say Collier and Erskine. Even
larger customers require these services
to get jobs off their plates, allowing
Dynamic Blending offers product development and manufacturing services from concept to R&D to brand design them to put their energy into building
to manufacturing to packaging and fulfillment for startups, small businesses and select large customers. their businesses and selling.
76

Dynamic Blending is building its “Younger brands generally do not
logistics program to become a one-stop have packaging engineers on staff
shop from ideation to manufacturing or familiarity with the complexities
to on-time delivery of products. It involved with regulatory and
is also set to launch an online client compliance issues, so we become their
portal to allow customers to track packaging experts and resource for
projects remotely in real time. package and formula testing,” notes
Dynamic Blending has achieved Jessica Tarangioli, VP of business
certification for halal, NSF, USDA development, FusionPKG.
Organic and ISO 9001:2015 to address One relatively new brand working
the demands of the marketplace. It has with FusionPKG is Cannuka, a skin
also become a significant processer care brand blending crystallized CBD
of CBD to support the use of the isolate and New Zealand manuka
ingredient in skin care and emerging honey. The resulting packaging is crisp,
hair care opportunities. Erskine clean, white and green, with light
and Collier note that customers honeycomb imagery and a geometric
are showing greater interest in honeybee logo. The design is reflective
designer cannabinoids, moving from of both the science behind the line and
CBD isolate to broad-spectrum as its spa-like properties.
well as CBG (cannabigerol), which Adds Tarangioli, “We have seen
may have anti-inflammatory and a large number of new brands with
antibacterial benefits. interesting value propositions and
Meanwhile, the team at Beauty brand stories over the past year, and we
Blueprint brings decades of experience have some really exciting launches in
in the beauty industry to its clientele the works.”
5.
and helps them navigate the process
successfully and efficiently. Stay unique
“With our expertise in product
No matter the size of your
development and manufacturing,
brand, you’re faced with the
we can bring products quickly to
ever-growing challenge of
market and really help to manage
standing out.
the learning curve often endured by
Sung concludes, “In a market that
beauty brands,” says Foster. “We help
can feel very saturated, launching
bridge the gap between our clients
innovative and unique products is key
and contract manufacturers at every
to the success and longevity of brands.”
step, allowing us to launch on time
Here’s to many years ahead of
and on budget.”
brands large and small rising to the
Syeira Simon, product development
challenge. n
and formula innovation manager,
Cosmopak, says, “The best performing
indie brands have disrupted and
established a new structure in the LISA DOYLE was formerly the
industry focused on speed-to-market associate editor of Global Cosmetic
Industry and is a freelance writer in the
and flexibility. A contract packaging
Chicago area. Her work has also appeared
company can provide more of a in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon,
benefit by their ability to control the Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.
manufacturing process from start to
finish, as we take full responsibility for
our clients.”
Indeed, a contract manufacturer
with a wealth of experience can be a
lifesaver for an up-and-coming brand—
and for more reasons than a new brand
might expect.

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING
iLabs’ CBD collection, presented at MakeUp in LA, included Keraplast’s FK Exfoliate (INCI: keratin) is a natural alternative to
a restorative, noncomedogenic Cushion Cream to help balance synthetic exfoliants for the skin. It is derived from ethically sourced
dry, distressed skin feel smooth and comfortable, while defending New Zealand sheep wool and is 91% homologous with human
against environmental stress. The vegan, cruelty-free, gluten-free keratin. As such, its use results in reduced irritation, in comparison
and fragrance-free formulation included hemp oil (CBD), hemp with minerals and seed/shell exfoliants. This is due to softer abrasion
seed oil, and an adaptogen blend of holy basil, reishi mushroom properties—ideal for sensitive skin.
and purple ginseng. The range also included the CBD Duo Lip Oil,
CBD Dry Face Oil, CBD Soothing Stick and CBD Powder-to-Oil
Scrub. The formulations comprised CBD derived from industrial BASF has created a convenient sunscreen stick featuring
hemp produced in New York’s Hudson Valley, which leverages Z-Cote, which offers SPF 50 defense, water resistance, and high
regenerative farming to recycle nutrients, capture and hold water, transparency and lightweight feel (panel test). The formulation is free
and minimize external inputs. of organic UV filters,
features natural and
sustainable materials,
and was created with
minimal ingredients.
The company also
offers Hydrasensyl
Glucan Green
beta-glucan, which
reportedly merges
the properties of
hyaluronic acid
and collagen.
The technology
is produced via a
fermentation process and purified via ultrafiltration. The material
has high stability, offers perceivable sensory improvements, delivers
short- and long-term skin hydration, increases skin smoothness,
and bestows anti-inflammatory properties.
Spec Chem Industry’s

SpecKare GSH (INCI:
glutathione) is an ingredient
of natural origin developed
by biological fermentation.
Tested for safety in vitro/in
vivo, it has been shown to
protect mitochondria from
oxidative damage; lighten
and whiten skin; boost the
antioxidant effect of vitamins
C and E; fight inflammation;
and detoxify skin—all in a
water-soluble format for
formulation flexibility.
78 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_SkinSunAntiAging_fcx.indd 78 3/19/20 11:29 AM

SUSTAINABLE LUXURY
Elevate your existing line with sustainable packaging,
utilizing decoration capabilities that are also eco-friendly.
At HCT Group we are continuously innovating new sustainable packaging
concepts with more options for customization. Reach out to one of our HCT
sales representatives today to learn more about our eco-friendly packaging
options that have been designed for recycling.

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING
Rahn’s Reforcyl-Aion (INCI: not provided) is designed to rejuvenate

impaired autophagy in the skin. The ingredient’s support of this
natural process revives and purifies the skin by activating key
activities: Golgi vesicle formation, mitochondrial fitness and LC3
gene upregulation.
During in-cosmetics Global 2020, CLR Berlin will present CutiBiome

CLR (INCI: octyldodecanol (and) Leptospermum scoparium branch/
leaf oil (and) Piper nigrum fruit extract (and) Magnolia officinalis
bark extract) to benefit the skin and scalp microbiota, specifically
Cutibacterium acnes. The ingredient is meant to balance the skin’s
microbiota for consumers who have skin conditions caused by
Cutibacterium acnes.
To coincide with the launch of its Reviving Rose Infusion collection,

Aromatica has made the switch to sustainable glass packaging. The
collection will utilize up to 90% recycled glass and Forest Stewardship
Council (FSC) certified paper as a way of embodying its Sustainable
Beauty promise.

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING
Nude Perfect Fluide by Yon-Ka Paris is

meant to even out skin texture, blur wrinkles,
and provide smoother, clearer, more radiant
skin. Ninety-six percent of the formula’s
ingredients are of natural origin as well as
COSMOS-certified. Key ingredients include
hyaluronic acid, organic prickly pear, Australian
Kakadu plum and ashwagandha.
Sederma’s peptide-based active Synchrolife (INCI: not provided) is

meant to realign circadian rhythms, counteract the effects of digital
pollution, erase signs of fatigue and deliver neuro-beauty benefits with
stronger self-esteem and overall well-being.
Vantage has launched a range of natural oils for formulators

seeking sustainable ingredients that meet the consumer need to be
environmentally friendly. The range comprises Textron Origin Argan
Organic Oil (INCI: Argania spinosa (argan) oil) for treating damaged
skin and regenerating aged skin; Textron Origin Rosehip Oil (INCI:
Laboratoires Expanscience’ Algaenia (INCI: glycerin (and) Rosa canina (rosehip) fruit oil) for moisture retention, protecting the
propanediol (and) water (aqua) (and) Chlamydomonas acidophila skin from UV rays; and Textron Origin Jojoba Organic Oil (INCI:
extract) contains a concentrate of peptides extracted from Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil) for moisturization without
microalgae, which is positioned as a “cocoon” for the skin with promoting acne or other skin problems.
protective qualities and helps the skin to resist sensitization and
allergic reactions while moisturizing and soothing it.
Hallstar’s Bright Oléoactif (INCI: Brassica campestris (rapeseed)

iLabs’ reef-safe Sunny Day ZnO Sun Milk SPF 30, presented at seed oil (and) Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract (and)
Luxe Pack LA, offered sun protection and hydration with no residue polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Althaea officinalis root extract
or white cast. Key ingredients included zinc oxide (non-nano), aloe, (and) Oryza sativa (rice) bran extract), is extracted from three
squalene and sodium hyaluronate. The sun care range also included plants—marshmallow root, rice bran and licorice root—to reduce
a Mineral Sun Stick SPF 50, ZnO Lip Balm SPF 15, Sun Drop SPF hyperpigmentation. The combination of these plants, as well as the
30, Sun Foam SPF 30 and Sun Gel SPF 30. ingredient’s oil-based form, make it safe and tolerable to skin.

INGREDIENTS
& RAW MATERIALS
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HAIR
Total Color is Revlon’s first clean and vegan permanent hair color,
meant to provide 100% full coverage with nourishing oils (hemp seed
oil), botanicals. Products are formulated without many traditional hair
color ingredients, including ammonia, parabens, sulfates, silicones,
mineral oil, phthalates and gluten.
Berg + Schmidt’s highly purified glycolic acid, GlyAcid (INCI:

glycolic acid (and) water (aqua)), is manufactured with a production
and cleaning process that renders it free of formaldehyde.
Soapbottle utilizes simple, colorful soap-based containers made

from natural ingredients to hold shampoo, shower gel and hand
soap. Consumers can refill the soap container by cutting a corner
off or using an integrated, reusable metal closure. The soap bottle
is also able to gradually dissolve over time—so waste can be
completely avoided.
84 Hair Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_Hair_fcx.indd 84 3/19/20 11:33 AM

HAIR SYSTEMS INC.
Processors & Packagers of Quality Care Products
We specialize in the formulation, manufacturing and packaging of:

HAIR LIGHTENER
HAIR COLOR
DEVELOPER
SHAMPOO
CONDITIONER
STYLING PRODUCTS
Contact us today to make your new product concept a reality.
www.hairsystemsinc.com (732) 786-8921

HAIR
Clear rinse-off
products denote
purity and mildness;
consumers expect
these products to
provide the same level
of conditioning as in
opaque, pearlescent
systems. Ashland’s
ClearHance C (INCI:
cassia hydroxyp BASF Care Chemicals has prepared an array of hair care
ropyltrimonium chloride) concept formulations designed to treat curls and coils. The
is a nature-derived polymer that imparts conditioning functionality and Rapid Wash Day Solutions for Textured Hair comprise six
enhanced foam to clear and transparent shampoos, conditioners, formulas designed to speed up the detangling process, provide
body washes and liquid soaps. Its natural-based backbone delivers a deep conditioning, strengthen the hair to prevent damage, and
naturalness level of 70%, per ISO 16128. maintain curl definition and conditioning for styling.
BASF has also introduced Scalposine, which comprises
a biomimetic amino acid able to reset the scalp’s microbial
ecosystem. The technology reduces oil production and flakes
on the scalp and rebalances the microbiome.
Biochemica Argan Shine (INCI: hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) Argania spinosa kernel
oil (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil) from Hallstar
Beauty delivers luminous shine to hair care products naturally without using silicones. The
ingredient exploits the healing properties of non-greasy Moroccan argan tree seed oil for
an effective way to convey the benefits of precious oils to hair.
86 Hair Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_Hair_fcx.indd 86 3/19/20 11:33 AM

SEPTEMBER 30 - OCTOBER 1, 2020
JACOB K. JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER
NEW YORK CITY
REGISTRATION NOW OPEN!

WWW.NYSCC.ORG/SUPPLIERS-DAY
THE ONLY SHOW SERVING YOUR NEEDS IN THE BEAUTY CAPITAL OF THE WORLD — NYC

MAKEUP
REPRESENTING THE LATINA

BEAUTY CONSUMER
Love Yourself First (LYF) was created to empower teenage beauty

consumers. Keeping with the mission of promoting self-love and a
positive self-image, LYF products, including lip kits and eyeshadow
palettes, are available in shades such as Loved, Determined, Mabel and Shaira Frìas.
Persevere, Brilliant and Confident.
Los Angeles-based Luna Magic Beauty was created by sisters Mabel
and Shaira Frías with the mission of adding vibrancy, color and the
Latin vibe to the beauty industry.
The brand’s products—a 12-shade eyeshadow palette, liquid lipstick
and false lashes—launched on Walmart.com in February 2020.
Global Cosmetic Industry: What are 2020 Latina beauty customers
looking for?
Luna Magic Beauty (LMB): Representation and cultural intimacy.
Most marketing toward Latinas is rooted in stereotypes and, the truth
is, we are just as global, design-focused and increasingly affluent as
other key groups. The brand values and representation seen in Luna
Magic Beauty’s imagery and packaging are a way of showcasing ele-
ments of our culture.
The Luna Magic Beauty brand may speak the Spanish language, but
the products are intended for anyone who loves this culture. Our brand
sets the mood and is putting the party together (food, music, energy,
etc.) and everyone can join.
Global Cosmetic Industry: How are you solving Latina beauty
needs through product formulations?
LMB: We’ve made sure that our formulas are highly pigmented to
work across all skin tones.
Global Cosmetic Industry: What’s next for Luna Magic Beauty?
LMB: We have strategically launched on Walmart.com due to the
retailer’s popularity with Latina beauty consumers. In addition, Luna
Magic Beauty is participating in the Walmart Beauty Box program. As
part of the program, 10,000 units of our eyeshadow palette will be
sent to specifically targeted Hispanics between the ages of 18-34.
As a company, we are data- and customer-segment-driven. We
know where our customers shop, live, read and consume, so our job is
to partner with retailers to bring our message and product to life. n
88 Makeup Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_Makeup_fcx.indd 88 3/19/20 11:40 AM

Gucci Beauty has launched its first-ever eye product, Mascara
L’Obscur. The mascara was created to build volume, curl and lift
lashes, and add length and definition, all with a long-wearing finish
meant to last up to 12 hours. The flexible elastomer brush was
designed to grip and separate lashes from the root to create a
wide fanned-out effect.
Anisa’s Star Fiber technology for powder

application features a five-sided structure that
maximizes negative space within each point by
picking up and depositing powder formulas with
minimal product fallout or product waste.
FusionPKG’s B.Y.O.S. (Bring Your Own

Skin) Foundation Balm in Top Secret
Compact won the 2020 MakeUp Innovation
Tree award and Millennial’s Favorite #1 honor
at the event’s LA iteration. The ultra-sleek,
patent-pending compact features a cover
that transforms into a slim, premium brush
paired with an integrated formula from the
company’s turnkey division, FusionPKG
BeautyLab. The formulation itself is a modern,
lightweight, velvety cream foundation for a
radiant, natural looking complexion.
Cosmetic Group USA

presented a range of
innovations at MakeUp in LA,
including 3D Eyeshadows.
Shades included Brilliant Blue,
Teal, Celestial Gold, Blue,
Emerald and Electric Fuschia,
as well as White and Bronze.
Based on Raman spectroscopy, Kao

developed a test method to visualize
the composition and distribution of
each component within a film formed by
makeup, such as a foundation, without
disrupting the film. Kao reportedly plans
to develop highly functional base makeup
products by use of this technology.
www.gcimagazine.com Makeup 89

MAKEUP
Biolie will present its three latest colored extracts at in-cosmetics

Global in Barcelona from June 30–July 2, 2020. Pink, blue and purple
colorants will be demonstrated in the company’s HydroPink and
Hydroblue aqueous extracts.
HCP’s Spider Brush designs—Easy Spider, Spider 360, Spider

3—were created with lash-building 360° Spider Technology. The
technology reportedly provides volumizing effects by separating the
lashes while also loading them with product.
Anisa’s Decades Collection (pictured at Luxe Pack/MakeUp in LA)

takes inspiration from various eras by showcasing makeup brushes
and skin care tools decked out with groovy textiles, iconic silhouettes
and color palettes that delivered on both fashion and function from
the 1950s (Pearlized Pastels and Enameled Chrome), 1960s (Mid-
Mod Groove) and 1970s (Velvet Flair).
90 Makeup Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020

GCI_subscription_Fullpage.indd 1 3/18/20 9:04 AM
BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE
iLabs’ VaVa-V! restorative V-cleanse, presented at MakeUp in LA,

featured a gentle, low-pH foaming cleanser for “sensitive lady parts.”
The formulation reportedly cleans and brightens and reduces irritation.
Key ingredients include Saccharomyces rice ferment for softening
and brightening, willowbark for brightening and antimicrobial activity,
Jojoba Desert has explored jojoba oil as a means to minimize chamomile and ginseng to reduce irritation, and a citrus blend for
fragrance levels by controlling their release. According to Anna Aharoni, smoothing and brightening. Other products in the range included the
Ph.D., R&D manager at Jojoba Desert, “Jojoba Desert Jojoba Oil Smoothing V-Shave, Moisturizing V-Cream and Invigorating V-Mist.
can stabilize the scent and ensure the slow release of odor by the
sensorial approach in pure oil and in a basic cream formulation.”
Naolys’ InnerRenewal [CC+AA] (INCI: not provided) is an anti- Integrine-60 (INCI: oligopeptide), from Vevy Europe SpA, is a
aging active derived from cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) shell. specific multifunctional phytoderivative integrating dermal and
Suggested for face and body skin care as well as makeup, the epidermal activities. Integrine-60 is reportedly suitable for improving
ingredient was embedded in vitamin C to revitalize skin cells skin and scalp trophism, and anti-aging treatments; reducing the
damaged by aging and stress. appearance of stretch marks; and speeding wound recovery.
92 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_BathBodyGroomFrag_fcx.indd 92 3/19/20 11:44 AM

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT CONSUMER
Pre
The only event giving

you tools to streamline
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October 13-14, 2020
Pre-register today
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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE
BASF has developed a range of multifunctional and economical

formulations for face, body and hair. The formulations are designed
to address quick launch targets, offer customization opportunities
and keep costs low, according to the company. In addition, these Sol by Jergens was created to give users the same effects as
formulations feature minimal ingredients by leveraging multifunctional traditional self-tanners, sans the dyes. Sol products—Sunless Tanning
materials. Formulations include a body lotion, a body cleanser, a Water Mousse, Sunless Tanning Towelettes and Tone Enhancing
shampoo, a face cleanser and a face cream. Body Bronzer—contain a tanning active derived from natural sugars.
94 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_BathBodyGroomFrag_fcx.indd 94 3/20/20 11:15 AM

PRODUCTS & SERVICES showcase
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
PACKAGING K
k
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

To reserve space
facebook.com/gcimagazine
in this section, contact
@globalcosmeticindustry Kim Jednachowski
kjednachowski@allured.com
Global Cosmetic Industry
1-630-344-6054
@GCI_Magazine
www.gcimagazine.com Products & Services Showcase 95
GCI2004_PS Showcase_irv.indd 95 3/18/20 2:05 PM

AD INDEX
The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.
PAGE ADVERTISER PHONE WEB SITE

15 Alpha Packaging 1-314-427-4300 www.alphap.com
11 Baralan USA 1-718-849-1600 www.baralanusa.com
43 BASF 1-973-245-6000 www.carecreations.basf.com
93 Beauty Accelerate 1-630-653-2155 www.beautyaccelerate.com
29 Bio-Botanica, Inc. 1-631-231-5522 www.bio-botanica.com
53 Biocogent LLC 1-631-638-1300 www.biocogent.com
57 Biosil Technologies, Inc. 1-201-825-8800 www.biosiltech.com
40 Botanical Origins 1-203-702-2500 www.botanicalorigins.com
86 Brookfield Engineering Labs, Inc. 1-508-946-6200 www.brookfieldengineering.com
48–49 Campo Research Pte Ltd. 11-656-383-3203 www.campo-research.com
C4 Centerchem, Inc. 1-203-822-9800 www.centerchem.com
90 Cosmetic Group USA, Inc. 1-818-767-2889 www.cosmeticgroupusa.com
5 Croda, Inc. 1-732-417-0800 www.crodausa.com
39 Dayglo 1-216-391-7070 www.dayglo.com
3 Grant Industries 1-201-791-8700 www.grantinc.com
85 Hair Systems, Inc. 1-732-446-2202 www.hairsystemsinc.com
41 Hallstar 1-312-385-4494 www.hallstar.com
13 HCP Packaging 1-203- 924-2708 www.hcpackaging.com
79 HCT Group 1-310-260-7680 www.hctpackaging.com
45 Ingredion, Inc. 1-800-713-0208 ingredion.us/personalcare
68 Integrity Ingredients Corp. 1-310-792-0282 www.integrityingredientscorp.com
89 Jojoba Desert 972-8-647-3296 www.jojobadesert.com
88 Lady Burd 1-800-345-3448 www.ladyburd.com
94 LipoTrue (34) 93-547-760 www.lipotrue.com
69 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. 1-216-447-5000 www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
92 McKernan Packaging Clearing House 1-775-356-6111 www.mckernan.com
87 NYSCC/Suppliers' Day 1-201-750-9785 www.nyscc.org
19 Omya, Inc. 1-562-961-3333 www.omya.com
DM1 Qosmedix 1-631-242-3000 www.qosmedix.com
81 QRS-Qiality Resourcing Services, LLC. 1-860-963-1200 www.qrsllc.net
75 Sabinsa Corp. 1-732-777-1111 www.sabinsacosmetics.com
78 Sandream Enterprises, LLC 1-973-882-3077 www.sandreamimpact.com
83 SoGeCos/Cosmoprof Las Vegas 1-702-297-1060 www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
77 Spectra Colors Corp. 1-201-997-0606 www.spectracolors.com
80 Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc. 1-800-985-2228 www.sundeepinc.com
C3 Systech/Only One 1-609-235-3639 www.systechone.com
1 Univar 1-425-889-3400 www.univarusa.com
84 Verescence 1-212-753-4200 www.verescence.com
C2 Voyant Beauty 1-708-482-8881 www.voyantbeauty.com
12 Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc. 1-973-465-1200 www.welch-holme-clark.com
67 World Wide Packaging, Inc. 1-973-992-4994 www.wwpinc.com
7 YonWoo/PKG 1-631-981-8701 www.pkggroup.com
96 Ad Index Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020
GCI2004_Ad Index_1st.indd 96 3/18/20 5:59 PM

Secret… Your packaging
is already CONNECTED!
Use your barcode to protect your
brand and engage consumers.
Your product in one hand...

A smartphone in the other...
Your customer instantly connected
to YOUR BRAND.
It’s already possible!
And easier than you think.
Curious?
Learn more @
systechone.com/bps
systechone.com | info@systechone.com | +1 800 847 7123

We
encourage
all kinds
of beauty.
We
deliver
emotions.
We
believe that
taking care
is taking
action.
S1
GCI2004_Pkg_Supplement_fcx.indd 1 3/23/20 11:02 AM

I
P
C
Packaging changes may not deliver the results brands hope for.
S2 Packaging Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020 w

INFOGRAPHIC:
PACKAGING UPDATES
CAN DECREASE SALES
Decision Insight found that 10% of packaging changes boosted units per buyer,
while almost 50% had a negative sales impact.
S
hould your brand brands’ ambitions for making a A virtual shopping trip
update its packaging? change—enhanced shelf presence, Decision Insight conducted
New data may give increased sales, boosting of brand a virtual shopping test among
some pause. messaging or general aesthetic qualified category shoppers who
Decision Insight appeal—the result is often lacking. were introduced to a virtual aisle
(decisioninsight.com), While many brands may focus in which they were instructed to
a Tabs Analytics sister company, these changes on increasing brand “shop” as they would in a real-
recently presented data that equity, sales and declining shelf world situation. After “shopping,”
reported to show that whatever presence could follow. qualified consumers were asked
to recall which brands they’d
seen on shelf and to rate products
F-1 Packaging update results* and packaging to measure brand
perception impact. Those same
1: number of new packages in a three-year period that grew sales shoppers were also sent back to
compared to the existing package among category shoppers. the aisle and told to locate clients’
products as fast as possible to
drop in penetration, new vs existing packaging measure distinctiveness. Finally,
8% vs existing the qualified shoppers were
interviewed to ascertain their
loss in shelf impact/recall, new vs existing
5% packaging
packaging likes and dislikes.
Packaging by the numbers

increase in product location time, new vs
4% existing packaging Decision Insight found that
10% of packaging changes
portion of new packages that precipitated a 5% boosted units per buyer, while
41% or greater sales drop almost 50% had a negative sales
impact. More than 50% had
portion of new packages with improved no impact on volume but did
28% qualitative impact but not sales improve shelf presence. For the
co
full breakdown, see F-1.
portion of new packages that generated neither
28% a qualitative or quantitative enhancement
The bottom line: Decision
Insight’s data aligns with Tabs’
information, which showed
average sales decline across all tested dro
3% packages that 25% of packaging changes
resulted in a 10% or greater
sal
*Based on a Decision Insight review of packaging launches, 2016-2018 sales decrease, while 5% actually
increased. n
qu
0 www.gcimagazine.com Packaging Showcase S3

*B

Just 21% of Gen Z and millennial
consumers completely trust what
retailers tell them.

HONESTY
IS THE TRENDIEST POLICY
Shoppers around the globe are demanding transparency
into every facet of the products they buy.
| BY PAUL WOODWARD, Oracle
B
efore hitting “add to spending power, their choices
cart” or heading to collectively can spark change and
checkout, consumers are drive industry shifts.
increasingly inquiring It’s important that brands
about how products understand that transparency is
were manufactured, inspecting a core component for building
ingredient lists and demanding loyalty with today’s shoppers.
beauty brands be completely Beyond openly communicating
honest about product content and with their customers, this
ambiguous business practices. means brands must go to
While honesty from retailers new lengths to adhere to high
is highly valued, consumers say standards of transparency,
it can be hard to come by; just traceability and honesty if they
21% of Gen Z and millennial want to acquire, cultivate and
consumers completely trust what retain loyal customers.
retailers tell them, according to
Oracle Retail’s recent “Setting the Why Transparency Matters
Bar” research. While they are trendy topics,
Beyond conversations with the concepts of transparency
salespeople and online Q&As, and traceability aren’t new; the
consumers are making these digital and social media era
growing demands known through has just catapulted consumer
their wallets and are using their expectations. In recent years,
buying power to make sure the beauty industry has faced
their voices are heard. Shoppers challenges as e-commerce and
around the globe are demanding globalization have opened new
transparency into every facet doors for counterfeiters and
of the products they buy, from rising consumer focus has put a
where the flowers that go into spotlight on ingredients.
their perfume were grown to what The United Kingdom recently
ingredients are really in their faced a health scare related to
favorite nighttime lipstick. fake cosmetics, and a seizure of
Consumers want clear counterfeit goods led authorities
information on products to to find extremely high levels of
inform their decisions about what mercury and illegal levels of a skin-
t to buy and which brands they whitening cream, hydroquinone.
trust. And, as purchasers with Stateside, Estée Lauder—the

HONESTY IS THE TRENDIEST POLICY
As recently as this year, Sephora took a proactive stand with their Sephora public chemicals policy that focuses on strengthening ingredient
transparency and safety.
owner of Estée Lauder, Mac, problems of accuracy and For example, if a popular
Clinique and DKNY fragrance— immediacy when contamination, beauty cream is speculated to
faced multiple counterfeit claims recalls or mislabeling arose. To be contaminated, a retailer can
and filed a lawsuit against a combat this, technology has been instantly review where their stock
myriad of domain names and put in place to help brands adhere of the cream was formulated,
online marketplaces after fake to high standards. packaged and distributed to
and counterfeit products made Originally developed for the identify the issue in a quick
their way to some of today’s most grocery industry in the wake of manner to respond to the public
reliable retailers such as Target food contamination incidents, in an accurate and timely way.
and Amazon. tools known as brand compliance This is critical, as Oracle
Needless to say, the beauty solutions substantially reduce Retail’s study found that 52% of
industry has reached a critical the time it takes a retailer to consumers have a heightened
turning point and is forced to determine the facts of an issue trust in retailers that respond
take action to protect consumers and take the appropriate steps to immediately and expediently in
as well as brand and retailer resolve it. the event of an issue or recall.
reputations. No brand is perfect; Furthermore, 66% of global
however, if something goes wrong Transparency Drives consumers stated they expect
it’s important that an accurate Responsiveness immediate notification of a
and verified record of every step With the right technology, product recall. This can be a
along the supply chain is available retailers can now refer to a trusted saving grace for brands and
immediately so the facts can be database and review every detail retailers, as traceability is a key
determined and communicated of a product’s journey through the factor in how companies react to
to the consumer. For cosmetics supply chain. This includes where contaminations and recalls.
manufacturers and retailers, this a specific product was mixed Crisis and safety concerns drove
is no small undertaking. or packaged to the details of its the grocery industry to innovate
ingredients. With such immediacy for the sake of transparency, and
Tools for Transparency and detail, this provides retailers brand compliance tools have since
In the past, the process of with the keen ability to respond delivered crucial results. Now, as
tracking the supplier information to potential issues at a quicker rising consumer demands change
needed to validate ingredient rate, helping to keep customers the game for beauty brands, the
and production data was manual safe and helping brands maintain same tools are helping salon shops
and often inaccurate, causing their reputations. and cosmetics retailers keep up.

Transparency Builds Trust
In addition to providing
traceability in times of crisis, Gone are the days when beauty
brand compliance tools also give
cosmetics makers the ability to brands could strategically place a
verify claims across their supply
chains so they can confidently graphic on the front of a product,
label products. As shoppers peruse
the aisles of major beauty retailers,
highlight one of the “natural”
they are avidly looking for that ingredients and expect its sales
“Clean at Sephora” insignia, the
Leaping Bunny logo or some other to go through the roof.
stamp of approval that denotes
a company is honest with their
product information, including
where it can be traced back to and hand, brand compliance tools social media about the brand’s
the ethics of how it was produced. can enable retailers and suppliers ingredients and the transparency
In 2020, it’s important that to collaborate from the product of its sourcing methods.
beauty brands and retailers keep development phase and across Companies that fail to keep up
up with the pace of change. the entire product lifecycle, will be left behind in today’s age
Gone are the days when beauty laying the groundwork for new, of the transparency-demanding,
brands could strategically place a transparently produced products. socially conscious consumers.
graphic on the front of a product,
highlight one of the “natural” Transparency Keeps The Future of Transparency
ingredients and expect its sales to Brands Competitive Today’s consumers are
go through the roof. Consumers With consumers hungry for not blindly buying products;
now have access to information information about product they are digging deeper into
with the click of a button and they ingredients and their impact, brands and thinking through
are determined to dig deep, posing beauty retailers should get ahead their investments. Consumers
new challenges for brands. and think through how they have the true power, and they
New demands are continuing can be more transparent and are embracing and enforcing
to surface, and product claims are authentic. This means brands this to their full extent. More
continuously being challenged. must practice what they preach change is to come, and brands
As a result, brands need to and live up to their claims. need to stay ahead of the curve
understand these challenges and Consumers don’t just want to and implement traceability,
how to respond to them in a hear that brands are being more information accessibility and, most
strategic and transparent way. Not transparent; they want actual importantly, transparency into
responding to public questioning tangible results that they can their businesses. If a brand is really
could result in decreased sales measure for themselves. going to commit to transparency
and being singled out, and if a Interestingly, Oracle found that or to a cause, they have to be fully
particular ingredient comes into 47% of consumers stated that engaged and dedicated to living
question, competitors with a they’re more likely to trust new up to that commitment with a
handle on their supply chains may and emerging brands if they are strong foundation to support it.
use this to their advantage and honest and authentic, and 42% After all, transparency will always
market their products as “free- are more likely to trust newcomer be on-trend. n
from” the ingredient in question. brands if they are transparent
Brands that are ahead of the about their products.
game and are seeking to meet As recently as this year, Sephora PAUL WOODWARD is the senior director,
rising consumer expectations are took a proactive stand with their retail supply chain business, Oracle. He pioneered
already using transparency to Sephora public chemicals policy and founded the first collaborative compliance
lifecycle solution in the early 1990s, which has
propel their businesses forward in that focuses on strengthening
gone onto be the world’s leading application of its
new and innovative ways. ingredient transparency and type. He now leads Oracle’s global retail supply
With a comprehensive record safety, and whole-plant organic chain transparency, collaboration, product safety
of every step, process and skin care company Laurel actively and Blockchain initiatives and works closely with
component of supply chains on engaged with its customers via the world’s leading grocery retailers.

Packaging Innovation Roundup
New packaging innovation
Minerva
Baralan
www.baralan.com
Baralan’s Minerva line offers
linear packaging, an expression of
functionality and simplicity. With
its cylindrical and rounded shapes,
the Minerva line consists of glass
jars and bottles in various sizes to
meet different requests. Minerva is
Cosmetic Packaging, Ready to Ship
synonymous with finesse, an homage
to simple style combined with the McKernan Packaging Clearing House
search for functionality. www.mckernan.com
In need of elegant, cosmetic or personal care packaging?
McKernan has you covered with beautiful airless packaging,
bottles, jars, sprayers, treatment pumps and lotion pumps.
McKernan carries millions of packaging components to help you
create your perfect package and to coordinate your perfect
product line. Call 1-800-787-7587 for samples.
Eco-Pac Tubes
WWP
www.wwpinc.com
Inspired by the need for more planet-friendly options, Eco-Pac Quartz Effect
Tubes have been engineered as light-weighted bio-PE packages
that are approximately 35% lighter than conventional tubes. HCP Packaging
The mono-material construction, absence of fossil fuels and its www.hcpackaging.com
recyclability provide a truly sustainable package alternative. The As the beauty industry continues its love affair with the spiritual
tubes are available in most sizes. and healing properties of crystals, HCP offers a decorative effect
that complements this trend. Available in light, bright and dark
colorways, Quartz Effect can be applied beneath a flat, dome or
faceted top-plate feature.
250 ml Printed Cylinder Bottles

Qosmedix
www.qosmedix.com
These 8.33 oz (250 ml) assembled bottles come with a
fine mist sprayer, disc top cap or lotion pump. The bottles
are conveniently labeled for use at makeup counters and
beauty schools.
S8 Packaging Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | April 2020

DM1
New Arrivals
QOSMEDIX
QOSMEDIX ITTY BITTY BEAUTY
THE EVOLUTION OF
QOSMEDIX CONTINUES
I am thrilled to share that we have many

exciting new initiatives this year including the
development of this mini catalog which contains
a comprehensive overview of all the products that
have been added to our line over the past year.
QOSMEDIX IS GOING GREEN!

The health of our environment remains a top
concern and we are incorporating this mindset
into the core values of our company.
Did you know that Qosmedix is ISO 14001

certified? This means that we have the highest
standards when it comes to doing our part to
protect the environment. We recycle cardboard,
stretch wrap and wooden pallets. We properly
dispose of electronic waste, use light sensors
in our warehouse to save on electricity and
drop ship products directly to our customers
from manufacturing sites to reduce our carbon
footprint. We are also taking a closer look at the
amount of plastic used in our inner and outer
packaging for outbound shipments and using
more sustainable materials in both our warehouse
and product assortment. Even this mailer has
been printed on recyclable paper using soy ink.
Please recycle this catalog if you don’t plan to
save it for future reference!
QOSMEDIX
2002-Q Orville Drive North
Ronkonkoma, NY 11779
+1 (631) 242-3270
info@qosmedix.com
qosmedix.com
2
LAUNCH OF ITTY BITTY BEAUTY
BY QOSMEDIX
We know that mini packaging is on the forefront of every cosmetic brand’s marketing plan,
and we wanted to provide a solution to help customers speed up the development process
for highly decorated mini packaging. That idea resulted in the creation of ittybittybeauty.com,
which features an online 3D configurator where customers can visualize a package (jars,
bottles, vials and tubes) with their artwork and desired decorations (i.e. colors and finishes)
and get dynamic price estimates throughout the process. We hope you will find the tool
intuitive and useful! Flip this mailer over to view the assortment of products currently featured
on the configurator.
EXPANSION OF OUR BUSINESS SELECT MODEL
About two years ago we developed Business Select, an online portal where companies
that have multiple physical consumer touch points can purchase their essential supplies.
There is an edited product assortment that is pre-approved by the corporate buyer, an
optional approval process and capability to set budget restrictions, along with many other
features. I am pleased to say that we have successfully supported many customers using the
Business Select Model including spa chains, cosmetics counters, beauty specialty stores,
beauty pop up events and education departments. If you think your company can benefit
from using Business Select, please contact us at +1 (631) 242-3270 or info@qosmedix.com.
Thank you for your continued support.
Warm regards,
Sari Sternschein
Vice President of Marketing
sari@qosmedix.com Scan to Start

Shopping Now!
3
FEATUREDBrands
Qosmedix is a proud distributor of the following prestigious brand names:
To learn more about these products, please visit Qosmedix.com
4
Applicators
Nude Angled Blending Sponge
20245
Latex-Free HDPU Foam
Dual Textured Blending Sponges Nude Oblong Blending Sponges
20243, 20244 20246 - 20248
Latex-Free HDPU Foam, TPU Latex-Free HDPU Foam
6
Dual Sided “Macaron” Blending Sponge Silicone Applicators
20237 20231 - 20236

Latex-Free HDPU, Silicone, TPU
Finger Mitt Facial Exfoliating Sponge Exfoliating Oblong Sponge
96654 20242
Latex-Free HDPU Foam Latex-Free HDPU Foam
7
White Point/Round Tip Swab
with Black Handle in Cylinder Container Lip Brush
10118 76685
Cotton, Paper PBT, PS
200 Pieces Per Cylinder 100 Pieces Per Bag
Flocked Doe Foot Flocked Teardrop

Lip Gloss Applicator Lip Gloss Applicator
76683 76684
Nylon, PP PS, TPU, Nylon
100 Pieces Per Bag 50 Pieces Per Bag
8
Dual Ended Point Tip
3.5 inch Applicator Stick Eye Shadow Applicator
506501 66161
Wood PU, PP
Loose Triangular
Wedge Sponge Cotton Balls
20162 Small: 95205

100 Pieces Per Bag
Latex-Free PU Foam
100 Pieces Per Bag Jumbo: 95204
100 Pieces Per Bag
9
Intrinsics® Large
Cotton Wipes
93540
Intrinsics® Cotton
Naturelles™
93534
Intrinsics® Petite
Cotton Wipes
93538
Intrinsics®
Neck Strips
93530
Intrinsics® Gentle
Cleansing Towels
93537
10
These soft but durable pads are great for packaging
in a retail jar with skin care solutions.
Round Absorbent Pad Thick Round Absorbent Pad Round Soft Pad
96656 96657 96655

2.25 inch Diameter (57.2 mm) 2.25 inch Diameter (57.2 mm) 2.25 inch Diameter (57.2 mm)
1.5 mm Thick 1.85 mm Thick
Viscose, PE
Viscose, Polyester Viscose, Polyester 2,400 Pieces Per Box;
1,200 Pieces Per Box; 1,200 Pieces Per Box; 60 Pads Per Stack
30 Pads Per Stack 30 Pads Per Stack
Great for Facial Cleansing!
Also available in other colors:

513012 - 513016
Expands When Wet
Compressed Sponge
513011
Dry: 2.5 inch Diameter x 0.03 inch (63.5 mm x 0.08 mm)
Wet: 2.75 inch Diameter x 0.38 inch (69.9 mm x 9.7 mm)
Cellulose
2 Sponges Per Bag
11
PRO Brushes
Dual Ended Foundation Brush
30366
Aluminum, Silicone, Nylon
12
“Tip and Blend” Brush Collection
30370 - 30373
PBT, Aluminum, ABS
These luxury Italian brushes are

perfect for contouring and blending!
13
Medium Fan Brush
17684
Nylon, Aluminum, Wood
Medium Fan Brush
17683
Boar Hair, Aluminum, Wood
14
Brush Off® Makeup Brush Cleanser
513712 - 513713
Individually Bottled
15
Cinema Secrets® Cinema Secrets®
Cleansing Tin 2 fl. oz. Makeup Brush Cleaner Spray
513706 513701
Cinema Secrets® Cinema Secrets®

Makeup Brush Cleaner Makeup Brush Cleaner
8 fl. oz. Pro Starter Kit 2 fl. oz. Travel Kit
513708 513707
16
Cinema Secrets®
Makeup Brush Cleaner
513702 - 513705
4 fl. oz. - 32 fl. oz.
17
Packaging
7 ml Paper Wrapped Vial and Cap,

White with Flocked Doe Foot Lip
Gloss Applicator and Wiper
Customize this white paper vial
with your brand’s artwork! 30028, 30029
Paperboard, ABS, Nylon
*Decorated vials are for illustration purposes only.
18
Glass
Glass
Available in Clear or Frosted with Available in Clear with Shiny White,

Shiny White, Shiny Black or Matte Black Caps Shiny Black or Matte Black Caps
3 gram Thick Walled Glass Jar 5 gram Low Profile Glass Jar
and Threaded Caps with Liner and Threaded Caps with Liner
74262 - 74266 74267 - 74270
Glass, ABS, PE Foam Liner Glass, ABS, PE Foam Liner

364 Jars Per Box, 364 Caps Per Bag 200 Jars Per Box, 200 Caps Per Bag
Glass
Available in Clear, Amber,

and Frosted with Shiny White,
Shiny Black or Matte Black Caps
15 gram Thick Walled Glass Jar

with Lined Threaded Caps and Disc Liner
74271 - 74277
Glass, ABS, PE Foam Liner, PP
280 Jars Per Box, 280 Caps or Liners Per Bag
19
5 gram Sampling Jar, Clear
with Flat Threaded Caps
29354, 29225, 29226

PP, PS
300 Assembled Jars Per Box
3 gram Double Wall 5 gram Double Wall Jar,

Jar with Cap, Clear Clear with Caps
29556 29557 - 29559

PS PS
Assembled; 500 Pieces Per Box
600 Pieces Per Box
20
Flat Threaded Caps for 3 gram
29264, 29578, 29579, 29595 Sampling Jar, Clear
29574, 29575, 30036, 30037 29264

PS PS
500 Pieces Per Layered Box 500 Pieces Per Box
Flat Threaded Caps for

29264, 29578, 29579, 29595
29574, 29575, 30036, 30037

PS
500 Pieces Per Layered Box
Sifters & Sifter with Sticker

for 29578, 29579, 29595
29576, 29577
PP
500 Pieces Per Layered Box
5 gram Stackable 5 gram Thick Wall

Sampling Jars, Clear Square Sampling Jar, Clear
29578, 29595 29579

PS PS
500 Pieces Per Box 500 Pieces Per Box
21
Natural
White
125 ml Narrow-Mouth
Wash Bottles
with Curved Dispensing Tips
29569, 30066
LDPE
Other sizes & styles available.
80 ml Black 118 ml Matte White

Aluminum Bottle Aluminum Bottle
120 ml Powder Spray Bottle and Sprayer with with Lotion Pump or
with Smooth Neck, Clear Overcap, Clear Fine Mist Sprayer and Overcap
29568 29604 30067, 30068
PET, PP, POM, LDPE, Silicone, PE, SS Aluminum, PP Aluminum, PP
22
250 ml Printed Cylinder Bottles, Black with Sprayer,
Disc Top Cap or Lotion Pump
30061 - 30065
PET, PP, PE
Lotion Pump and Fine Mist Sprayer

available without printing.
30069 - 30070
23
8 ml Vial and Cap with Applicator Tips, Matte Black
87016 - 87021
Vial: PETG
Caps: ABS, AS, PP, PE, EVA, PBT, TPEE, Nylon
Bulk Packed
24
Great for foundations and
other liquid formulations!
Glass Glass
5 ml Glass Spray Bottle 30 ml Frosted Glass Bottle
with Pump and Cap with Locking Pump Cap, Matte Black
74246, 74247 74241, 74242

Glass, PP, POM, SS Glass, ABS, PP
100 Unassembled Pieces Per Bag 100 Unassembled Pieces Per Box
Glass
Screw Caps Stainless Steel or Glass 1 ml Glass Bottles

30054 or 30055 Roller Balls with Natural Housing
For 30054 or 30055 30054 & 30055
30056 & 30057
Glass
30058 or 30059 500 Pieces Per Box
PP
500 Pieces Per Bag SS, HDPE or Glass, HDPE
500 Pieces Per Bag
25
Beauty Tool Organizers
50221 - 50223
Silicone, ABS
*Contents are for display purposes only.
Gusseted Slide Zipper Bag, Clear with Black Trim
599787
PE, EVA
6.2 inch x 5.9 inch x 2 inch (160 mm x 150 mm x 50 mm)

Bulk Packed
26
2-Compartment Rectangular
Cosmetic Caddy with Carrying Handle
10033
Acrylic
10.04 inch x 5.71 inch x 3.31 inch
(255 mm x 145 mm x 84.1 mm)
Individually Boxed
*Contents are for display purposes only.
27
Glass 15 ml Glass Bottles with Interchangeable Caps
30016 - 30023
Glass, PP, Rubber, Phenolic Resin
360 Bottles Per Case, 720 Droppers Per Case, Available in Amber,
120 Caps, Sprayers or Pumps Per Bag Clear and Blue
3 ml & 5 ml
Glass Bottles with Dropper
or Screw Caps
74249 - 74261
Glass, PP, Rubber, PE, Aluminum

100 Bottles or Droppers Per Box,
100 Caps or Reducers Per Bag
Glass Available in Frosted,

Clear, or Amber
15 ml & 30 ml Available in Amber,

Clear and Blue
PET Bottles with Dropper or Screw Caps
15 ml: 29580, 29582, 29584, 29586, 29588, 29589, 29590 - 1,500 Per Case
30 ml: 29581, 29583, 29585, 29587, 29591, 29592, 29593 - 750 Bottles Per Case, 1,500 Caps Per Case
Glass, Latex-Free Silica Gel, PP, Aluminum, PET
28
3 ml & 15 ml Crimped Tubes, Natural
with Flip Top or Screw Caps, Glossy White
74244, 74245
LDPE, PP
Bulk Packed; Assembled
Also available with

black caps.
5 gram
Round Twist-Up Makeup Stick
Container and Cap
29999, 30000
PP, ABS
Bulk Packed
4.5 gram, 15.7 gram, 31 gram

Balm & Deodorant Containers
30001 - 30006
PP, AS
50 Unassembled Pieces Per Bag
29
Mani & Pedi
Disposable Spa Curved Stainless Steel

Pedicure Liners Nail Clippers
91234 513641, 513642

PE
50 Pieces Per Bag
30
DUKAL™ Non-Acetone
Nail Polish Remover Pads
93511
100 Pieces Per Box
8 oz. & 16 oz. Supernail® N/A

Polish Remover
93533, 93536
31
Beauty Supplies
Purell® Sanitizing Products
Wipes: 93526, 93527

Hand Sanitizer: 93520, 93521, 93522, 93523, 93524, 93528, 93529, 93541, 93542
Surface Cleaner: 93525
32
50-Page Face Makeup Chart Pad Stainless Steel Flexi-Scissor
17105 513643
3-Piece Stainless Steel

Tweezer Set, Black
513654
33
Griffin 40 Professional
Eyebrow Thread
97021
Cotton
15 Spools Per Box
Available in
Matte Black
or Shiny Black
Small Hand Held Mirror PVC-Free Glitter Gel Eye Masks
513565, 513660 505316 - 505318

ABS, Glass
4.72 inch x 7.87 inch Individually Wrapped
(120 mm x 200 mm)
34
Large Rectangular Mixing Palette
and Spatula Value Set
18223
Stainless Steel
Palette: 4 inch x 6 inch (101.6 mm x 152.4 mm)
Spatula: 7 inch x 0.25 inch (177.8 mm x 6.35 mm)
Individually Wrapped in a
Clear Pouch with Retail Hang Tab
Large Rectangular Mixing Palette

with Finger Hole, Matte Black
18222
Stainless Steel
4 inch x 6 inch
(101.6 mm x 152.4 mm) Mini Rectangular Mixing Palette
with Finger Hole, Matte Black
Clear Pouch with Retail Hang Tab 18224
Stainless Steel
4.5 inch x 3 inch
(114.3 mm x 76.2 mm)
Clear Pouch with Retail Hang Tab
35
Ardell® Professional
Demi Wispies with Invisiband®, Black
73092
Ardell® Professional Individuals Duralash® Human Hair
73090, 73091, 73094, 73095

Human Hair
Ardell® Professional Faux Mink

Individuals Knot-Free Medium, Black
73096
Synthetic Hair
Ardell® Professional Faux Mink

with Invisiband® Lashes
513422 - 513424
Synthetic Hair
36
DUO® 2-in-1 DUO®
Brush-On QUICK-SET™
Striplash Adhesive Striplash Adhesive
513709 513710, 513711
Magnetic Lash Applicator
41526
Magnetic Lashes
513418 - 513421
Human Hair
37
Novus® No. 1 Plastic Clean and Shine DUKAL™ Cleansing Towelette
93546 93512
2 fl. oz. (59.2 ml) 100 Pieces Per Box
38
Carbon
Filter
Ear Loop Masks Disposable Short Makeup Cape
90605 - 90607 504522

100 Pieces Per Bag PE
50 Pieces Per Bag
Barbicide® Products
Jars: 91289, 91290

Wipes: 91291
Concentrate: 91292, 91293, 91294
39
Swan® 70% La Fresh® Eco-Beauty®
Isopropyl Alcohol Oil-Free Face Cleanser Wipes
93514 93535
16 fl. oz., 473 ml 30 Wipes Per Pack
Body Drench® Body Drench® Body Drench®

3-IN-1 Cleansing Melt 3-IN-1 Micellar 3-IN-1 Micellar
Cleansing Water Wipes Cleansing Water
93544
93543 93539
30 Wipes Per Pack
40
Water Wipes
93545
60 Wipes Per Pack
Fore Naturals
Make-Up Remover
93532
1 Gallon, 128 fl. oz.
41
Salon Supplies
Colortrak™ Professional Colortrak™ Vinyl Gloves,

Haircoloring Pop-Up Foil Sheets Powder Free, Medium
599755 599756
Rubber Hair Bands, No Crease Elastic

Black and Clear Ribbon Ponytail Holder
513657, 513658 513647
Thermoplastic Rubber Polyester

42
GiGi® Clean Collars
43225
GiGi® Wax
43219 - 43222
43
GiGi® Mini Pro Kit
43216
Packaged in a Boxed Kit
GiGi® Brazilian Waxing Kit
43218
44
GiGi® Student Starter Kit
43217
GiGi® Pre Epilation Oil GiGi® Post Wax Cooling Gel
43223 43224
45
ESSEN T I AL
Hygienic Supplies
Qosmedix was founded on the concept of promoting sanitary practices
across all sectors of the beauty industry. Today, we continue to be a leading
supplier of essential hygienic products used at cosmetic counters, beauty
schools, pop-up shops and educational events. The safety of your customers
can be easily ensured by educating your team members, instilling the proper
values, and by utilizing the right products. Whether you’re a retail operations
manager, spa and salon owner or professional makeup artist, make
Qosmedix your destination for these must-have supplies!
Visit qosmedix.com to learn more and shop online.
46
Brushes
Swabs
Spatulas
Sponges
Wipes & Pads
Sponges
Towels
Gloves
Masks
Sanitizing Supplies
47

Do you
manage the

supply program
for your company?
Are you looking

to save time
and money?
Does your
corporation have
multiple retail
touchpoints?
Qosmedix Business Select combines a customizable ordering platform,

in stock solutions and 40 years of experience to help clients:
• Streamline the purchasing process

• Create consistency in the retail experience
• Have total visibility of the spending
• Reduce corporate administrative costs
48
A PERSONALIZED E-COMMERCE PLATFORM
FOR YOUR STORE SUPPLY PROGRAM
Program Features:
Pre-selected Optional integration
product asssortment with your ERP system
Contracted Dedicated
Pricing Account Manager
Spend No Additional
Management Set-up Cost
Extensive
Reporting
Capabiities
Become a
Business Select
Partner!
Call +1 (631) 242-3270 or

email info@qosmedix.com
to learn more.
49
BY QOSMEDIX
info@ittybittybeauty.com
+1 (631) 242-3270
ittybittybeauty.com
@ittybittybeautyusa
ittybittybeauty
LET US introduce OURSELVES!
Itty Bitty Beauty is a division of Qosmedix, a leading
supplier to the beauty industry. By leveraging
over 30 years of knowledge, we help bring your
mini packaging concept to life with our innovative
3D packaging configurator. We’ll deliver a final
product, customized to your exact specifications,
in a time frame that meets your needs.
Whether you’re an indie beauty brand or an

established cosmetics manufacturer, we understand
the many challenges brands face when sourcing
mini packaging. That’s where we come in! We’re
here to make the process painless and (gasp!) even
fun! Let’s start this journey together today. Soon,
we’ll be celebrating all the little victories that have
led to your success.
51
Real Time 3D Visualization
Watch your ideas grow from concept to final design.
Our simple to use technology lets you choose from
an array of options to customize your mini packaging.
STAY WITHIN budget

Dynamic Pricing
What’s My Price? Our dynamic price estimator updates
the cost with every change you make to help you stay
within your budget.
RELY ON experts
30+ Years in Global Sourcing
We’ve been around the block. With over 30 years of
experience collaborating with production sites all over
the world, we take the guesswork out of sourcing
packaging components. Let our experts find “the right
stuff” from our trusted global network of suppliers.
WORK WITH A caring PARTNER

Social Responsibility and Quality Assurance
Our comprehensive auditing program assures social
responsibility compliance. Quality is at the forefront in
everything we do. We consistently exceed all service levels
and product quality control.
GET helpWHEN NEEDED

Expert Support Access
When it comes to support, we have your back.
Our US-based team is ready to help and provide
assistance every step of the way with Live Chat,
Phone, Email, Text or through in-person meetings.
52
CHOOSE YOUR CATEGORY
SPRAY
BY QOSMEDIX
STEP 3
Personalize your project with your
brand logo and artwork
BY QOSMEDIX
STEP 4
Save, share and submit a
formal quote request
BOTTLES JARS
Bleed
Trim
Fold
SPRAY
STEP 3
Personalize your project with your
brand logo and artwork
SMALL PACKAGING. BIG IMPACT.

BY QOSMEDIX
STEP 4
Save, share and submit a
formal quote request
TUBES VIALS
53
define IT
Once you select your category,
start configurating!
MATERIAL TYPE
STEP 1
Select your specific packaging
type and size
CLOSURE CAPACITY
STEP 2
Get inspired with endless
color possibilities
SEE DYNAMIC
PRICE CHANGES
AS YOU MAKE
YOUR SELECTIONS!
STEP 1
Select your specific packaging
type and size
design IT
color possibilities.
STEP 2
color possibilities
54
decorate IT
SPRAY
Personalize your project with
your brand logo and artwork.
55
PRINTING METHODS
HOT STAMPING
An engraved image is heated and stamped with a

marking film in between the stamp and container.
Ink is left behind where the stamp was laid.
SILK SCREENING
An image is burned into a screen and ink is pressed
through to the container with a squeegee.
OFF-SET
The design is put onto plates for every color

being used. The ink is then put on plates and
transferred to a blanket. The blanket is then
applied to the product in a single pass.
quote IT
Save, share and submit a formal quote request and an

Itty Bitty Beauty Specialist will contact you within 1 business day.
56
3 gram Sampling Jar 10 gram Jar with Threaded Caps
with Raised Bottom, Sifter and Sifter with sticker
with Sticker and Flat Threaded Caps
502210 - 502213
502206 - 502209
AS, PP, ABS
AS, PP, ABS Bulk Packed
Bulk Packed
5 gram Jar, Clear with 10 gram Jar with Flat 15 gram Jar with Flat
Flat Threaded Caps Threaded Cap, Clear Threaded Cap, Clear
502207, 502208, 502214 502202, 502203 502204, 502205

AS, ABS PS PS
Bulk Packed Bulk Packed Bulk Packed
57
10 ml HDPE Bottle, White 15 ml HDPE Bottle, White
with Interchangeable Caps with Interchangeable Caps
502223, 502224, 502225, 502228, 502251,

502226, 502227 502253, 502255
HDPE, PP, PO, POM, PE, Glass, SS HDPE, PP, PO, POM, PE, Glass, SS
Bulk Packed Bulk Packed
10 ml PET Bottle, Clear 15 ml PET Bottle, Clear

with Interchangeable Caps with Interchangeable Caps
502224, 502225, 502226, 502225, 502230, 502252,

502227, 502229 502254, 502256
PET, PP, PO, POM, PE, Glass, SS PET, PP, PO, POM, PE, Glass, SS
Bulk Packed Bulk Packed
58
2 ml
Spray Vial with Pump
and Cap, Clear
502222
PP, POM, Rubber, SS
100 Vials & Assembled Caps
& Pumps Per Bag
4 ml - 8 ml
Screw Top Spray Vials,
Natural or Frosted
with Pump and Cap, Clear
502215, 502216, 502217

PP, POM, Rubber, SS
100 Vials & Assembled Caps
& Pumps Per Bag
Single Wall
Double Wall
1 ml and 1.5 ml
2 ml - 5 ml Vials with Lotion Pump Vials with Flocked Doe Foot
and Overcap, Natural Lip Gloss Applicator and Wiper
502218, 502219, 502220, 502221 30024 - 30027

PP, POM, Rubber, SS Single Wall: AS, ABS, PP, PE
100 Vials & Assembled Caps Double Wall: AS, ABS, TPEE, PP, PE
& Pumps Per Bag Bulk Packed
59
Tubes come open-ended for easy
factory filling and crimping.
Open-Ended Tubes with Foil Seal

and Screw On Caps, White
502231, 502234, 502236, 502238, 502239

HDPE, LDPE, PP
Bulk Packed
Open-Ended Tubes with Slanted Reducer

and Threaded Caps, White
502245 - 502247
HDPE, LDPE, PP
Bulk Packed
Open-Ended Tubes with Foil Seal

and Flip Top Caps, White
502232, 502233, 502235, 502237

HDPE, LDPE, PP
Bulk Packed
Open-Ended Tubes with Needle

Nose Tip and Threaded Cap, White
502240 - 502244
HDPE, LDPE, PP
Bulk Packed
60

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