Niacinamide (B3 Vitamin)

Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very

effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for
aging skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the
appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a
weakened skin surface. Niacinamide can also mitigate the damage
environmental attack can cause, and is stable in the presence of heat and
light.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is indicated to reduce the appearance of skin

blemishes and congestion. A high 10% concentration of this vitamin is
supported in the formula by zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid to
balance visible aspects of sebum activity. 

Contraindications: If topical Vitamin C is used as part of skincare, it

should be applied at alternate times with this formula (ideally Vitamin C in
the PM and this formula in the AM). Otherwise, Niacinamide can affect
integrity of pure-form Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid). 

Octyl Methoxycinnamate

Octyl Methoxycinnamate is an organic ester used in sunscreens (and lip

balms) formed from methoxycinnamic acid and 2-ethylhexanol (Source).
It is a sun blocking agent that absorbs UVB rays, but not UVA rays.
However, when it is exposed to sunlight, it is rendered less effective,
although this reaction can be prevented by the addition of other
ingredients (as seen in the formula of Tinsorb). It is also used to reduce
to appearance of scars (SmartSkinCare.com).

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is an organic compound and ester formed by the

condensation of a diphenylcyanoacrylate with 2-ethylhexanol (a fatty
alcohol, adding emollient and oil-like, water resistant properties). It is
primarily used as an active ingredient in sunscreens because of its ability
to absorb UVB and short-wave UVA (ultraviolet) rays and protect the skin
from direct DNA damage (Source).
Benzophenone 3 / Oxybenzone

Benzophenone-3, or oxybenzone, primarily functions as a photostabilizer

and sunscreen. Among the vast selection of sunscreen active ingredients,
Benzophenone-3 is classified as a "chemical" sunscreen agent. Inadequate
when used alone, benzophenone-3 absorbs UVB and short UVA rays but is
a relatively weak chemical UV absorber. By absorbing UV rays, it also
helps preserve the integrity of other cosmetic ingredients, preventing
their deterioration under the sun. For this reason, benzophenone-3 is
most often used in conjunction with other sunscreen agents. Besides
sunscreen, it can be found in a variety of personal care products such as
nail polish, lotions, and lipstick.

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl stearate
adalah produk kimia seperti lilin yang dibuat
dari gliserin dan
asam stearat . Bahan
ini sering ditemukan
dalam kosmetik dan
produk perawatan
kulit, seperti lotion, krim, dan pembersih.

Gliseril stearat
bertindak sebagai
pelumas dan
membantu membuat
kulit lembut dan
halus.

Bahan ini sering ditemukan

dalam kosmetik dan produk perawatan
kulit yang berasal dari
beberapa sumber:
minyak inti sawit,
minyak kedelai, atau minyak sayur. Minyak sayur adalah
salah satu sumber yang mungkin. Bahan
ini juga secara alami diproduksi oleh tubuh manusia.
PEG 100 Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate is made by combining natural oils (oftentimes palm or

coconut) with Stearic Acid to form a water-soluble ester. It can also be a
synthetic polymer made by combining Oxirane (Ethylene Oxide) and fatty
acids (source). PEG-100 Stearate is primarily used by the cosmetics and
beauty care industry as an emollient, an emulsifier and a moisturizer,
although PEG Stearates in general are also known to clean the skin and
hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed
away, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol adalah alcohol yang terdiri dari molekul berantai panjang.
Alkohol ini berbentuk padat sehingga tidak dapat diminum dan tidak dapat
diserap kulit. Bahan ini juga tidak beracun

Cetearyl Alcohol

Pada kosmetik dan skin care, cetearyl alcohol bukanlah benar-benar

alcohol. Zat ini merupakan lilin (wax) yang teremulsi yang dibuat dari
tumbuhan.

Ceteareth 20

* A fatty alcohol. * Ceteareths are made from cetearyl alcohol- a blend

of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (natural fatty acids from coconut oil), and
ethylene oxide. The numerical value - for example cetearerth-33 -
represents the average number of molecules of ethylene oxide added.
Ceteareth-20 functions as an emollient and emulsifier. It's usually used in
conjunction with other alcohols and fatty acids, working to thicken a
solution and help other ingredients dissolve in a solvent. It also functions
as a nonionic stabilizer in oil in water emulsions. This ingredient is one of
the most common emollients used in cosmetics, and you can find it in
products such as hair dye, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment,
conditioner, cleanser, sunscreen, exfoliant/scrub, depilatory cream and
acne treatment.
 Glycerin

 Categories: Skin-Replenishing, Skin-Restoring

Also called glycerol or glycerine, glycerin is a humectant that’s present in

all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived
from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of
sugars; it also can be synthetically manufactured, which is usually the
case with modern-day skincare products.

Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and restoring ingredient, meaning it is a

substance found naturally in skin, helping to establish normal balance and
hydration. It’s one of the many substances in skin that helps maintain a
healthy look and feel, defending against dryness and working to maintain
skin’s moisture level. Essentially, glycerin is a master at hydration, and
works best when combined with other replenishing and emollient
ingredients.

Some people wonder whether using products with glycerin takes too much
water from skin when there isn’t enough humidity in the air. This can
occur with pure glycerin (100% concentration—an amount that’s never
used in skincare products). Any humectant (including glycerin) used in
pure form can increase water loss by attracting water from the lower
layers of skin into the surface layers when the climate is too arid (low
humidity). For this reason, glycerin and humectants are typically used in
concentrations of 5% or less and always combined with other ingredients
to soften skin. In fact, glycerin combined with other emollients and/or
oils is a fundamental cornerstone of most moisturizers.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopheryl acetate is a form of vitamin E, a natural skin-conditioning

agent and antioxidant. It is the ester of acetic acid and tocopherol and is
often used as an alternative to pure tocopherol (or undiluted vitamin E)
because it is considered more stable and less acidic.

Stearic Acid / Octodecanoic Acid

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid found primarily in animal derivatives, but in

vegetable fats as well. It is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal
care products, as a fragrance ingredient, surfactant and emulsifier. It is
also used as the base for the manufacture of other fatty acid ingredients
which are used as emulsifers, emollients and lubricants, according to
CosmeticsInfo.org. It is also used as an ingredient in candles, plastics,
dietary supplements, oil pastels, and for softening rubber; it is a frequent
ingredient in soaps made from vegetable oil, and is used to harden the
product (Wikipedia).

Dimethicone

Dimethicone adalah obat yang memiliki banyak manfaat. Obat ini

terbentuk dari senyawa silikon yang umumnya digunakan sebagai emolien
atau pelindung kulit.

Emolien merupakan substansi yang berfungsi melembutkan sekaligus

melembapkan kulit, sehingga dapat mengurangi rasa gatal-gatal dan
pengelupasan kulit. Karena itu, dimethicone sering dipakai untuk
mengatasi ruam popok, luka bakar, serta iritasi kulit akibat radioterapi.

Titanium Dioxide

Kalau kalian suka dengan produk skincare yang berlabel mineral, natural
atau kalau kulit kalian sensitif dengan  chemical protection, Titanium
Dioxide (dan temannya, Zinc Oxide) merupakan pilihan alami yang ada
sebagai zat aktif  UV filter. Kekurangannya, sering meninggalkan 'white-
cast'dalam aplikasinya. 
kelebihannya, TiO2 berpotensi rendah untuk mencetuskan alergi pada
kulit2 yang sensitif. 

Untuk yang suka nyari2 SPF gede2, harus kenalan lho dengan TiO2! ^^

Sebab, TiO2 inilah yang akan menentukan seberapa besar SPF yang
tercantum dalam suatu produk tabir surya. Semakin tinggi persentase
TiO2, maka semakin besar juga angka SPF nya.

TiO2 sebagai tabir surya memiliki kemampuan absorbing sinar UV yang

kuat dan memiliki indeks refraksi yang tinggi. Dengan kemampuan seperti
itu, TiO2 bisa memantulkan kembali Sinar UVA dan UVB sekaligus. 

Oiya, TiO2 bila digunakan sebagai sunblock maka harus dilapisi

dengan silica atau alumina. Karena TiO2 yang 'telanjang' dapat
membentuk suatu radikal bebas yang bisa mencetuskan kanker. Maka dari
itu, kita sering menemukan 'silica' dalam ingredient sunblock/sunscreen
kita.

Meski TiO2 ini termasuk yang paling aman untuk kulit bayi sekalipun,
terkadang bisa mencetuskan jerawat atau komedo. Dikarenakan
bersifat physical, jadi kemungkinan untuk pore clog  selalu ada terutama
bila TiO2 dengan konsentrasi tinggi atau gampangnya, kalau SPF nya
besar. Maka ada baiknya, selalu membersihkan sisa2 make-up dengan
sempurna.
Tapi sebenarnya kemampuan TiO2 untuk menyumbat pori tergantung dari
besar partikelnya juga sih :p

Keamanan
Meski digunakan juga sebagai bahan pewarna cat, bukan berarti TiO2
tidak aman untuk kulit ^^ 
TiO2 merupakan senyawa yang alami yang proses terbentuknya terjadi di
alam (meski bisa juga dibuat dengan teknologi sekarang). 

IARC memang menggolongkan  TiO2 sebagai zat karsonogen (pencetus

kanker) bila dalam bentuk serbuk (debu TiO2). Hal itu dicetuskan setelah
ditemukan kanker saluran napas pada tikus2 yang hidup di area produksi
TiO2. Tapi hal tersebut belum tentu relevan dengan manusia yang sama2
terpapar dengan debu TiO2, jadi hal tersebut masih pro-kontra.

Lalu mengenai isu keamanan TiO2 nano-partikel. Beberapa produk SS/SB

berlabel 'nano-partikel' akhir2 ini semakin marak. TiO2 nanopartikel
memang memiliki kemungkinan untuk terserap kulit lebih cepat dan
perlindungan yang lebih baik. Namun ini belum jelas mengenai keamanannya
untuk manusia. Karena dikahawatirkan TiO2 yang berukuran nano dapat
terserap ke dalam organ2 vital seperti otak dan liver.

Phenoxyethanol

* A preservative * Also known as Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether *

Please read TIA's articles on Phenoxyethanol and Is It Safe and The
FDA’s Warning on Phenoxyethanol * Please read TIA's other articles on
What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is
It: Natural Preservative Alternatives to Phenoxyethanol and Parabens
Phenoxyethanol, also known as Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether, is a
glycol ether and bactericide (that functions as a disinfectant, antiseptic
or antibiotic) that is primarily used as a preservative in cosmetics and
beauty products. It is also seen as a fragrance additive, a fixative for
perfumes, an insect repellent ingredient in sunscreens, a topical
antiseptic ingredient, and solvent (Wikipedia).

Phenoxyethanol is the new darling of the chemical industry and it is

increasingly turning up in cosmetics as a preservative as an alternative to
parabens. It only recently came to public attention in the US when the
FDA issued a warning about its use in a cream, called Mommy Bliss, for
nursing mothers. The FDA warned that phenoxyethanol can cause shut
down of the central nervous system, vomiting and contact dermatitis.

So what is phenoxyethanol, is it is really safer than parabens or should we

try to avoid it?

Phenoxyethanol is a glycol ether. Glycols are a series of chemicals that

find their way into all sorts of things: paint, lacquer, jet fuel.....
Phenoxyethanol is used as an anti-bacterial in cosmetics as well as a
stabilizer in perfume.

The product's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) says that it

phenoxyethanol is harmful if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through the
skin and that it can cause reproductive damage. The MSDS refers to
100% concentrations, so is it safe at lower doses? In cosmetics the
concentrations are typically 0.5% to 1%.

There are several animal studies that demonstrate that it is toxic - with
effects on the brain and the nervous system - at moderate
concentrations. In Japan, there is a concentration limit for its use in
cosmetics. In Europe, the European Union classifies it as an irritant and
there are various studies (on rabbit skin, for example) that demonstrate
reactions at low doses. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) data
sheets show chromosomal changes and genetic mutation effects in testing
as well as testicular atrophy and interference with reproductivity in mice.
I also came across a report written by a medical professional who
contracted allergies after coming into contact with phenoxyethanol in a
detergent used for cleaning lab equipment.  It seems he wasn't a fluke.
There are over 3,000 known allergans and they were studied, along with
the data from 9,948 patients, by a research team in Germany.
Phenoxyethanol was in the top 10. An Italian study also determined that
phenoxyethanol is a contact allergan. However, a 1990 article in the
Journal of the American College of Toxicology said that it was only a mild
irritant to rabbit skin at 2%.

Sign up for our newsletter to get the latest product reviews and save
10% on all orders over $50

Concern that phenoxyethanol is a neurotoxin precedes the FDA.

German research in 1999, concluded that it had neurotoxin potential.

Phenoxyethanol breaks down to phenol and acetaldehyde, acetaldehyde

converts to acetate. Phenol can disable the immune system's primary
response mechanism. Given that, it is at best ironic, that phenoxyethanol
is used as an anti-bacterial in vaccines. Acetaldehyde occurs during the
breakdown of ethanol, (alchohol and 2-phenoxyETHANOL), it is a
suspected carcinogen. Inhalation studies have shown irritation of the
eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.

I feel that given the wealth of evidence, I'd rather give it a miss even at
concentrations of 1% or lower. That, however, is easier said than done.
Phenoxyethanol is becoming ubiquitous and it is hard to avoid. But if you
do, here is a selection of beauty products that don't contain
phenoxyethanol and have found safe preservatives:

Cosmetics without phenoxyethanol

Sevani uses radish root ferment in its products, for example Rapid

Renewal Resurfacing Creme, Truth In Aging's first product, formulated
for women with thinning hair, Hair Vitality Complex, also uses radish root
as a natural, safe preservative as does Avitalin. Oil-based products can
avoid preservatives so look out for serum's such as YBF Private Reserve
antioxidant oil, La Isha's Breast SOS, or 100% Pure's tinted moisturizer.
Cosmetics with a low concentration of phenoxethanol

For those who take a pragmatic approach, here are some cosmetic
recommendations that focus on natural, safe ingredients and have
phenoxyethanol at a relatively small concentration at the end of the
formula: La Vie Celeste Extra Rich Face Cream, ReLuma's
Serum or SenZen's Double Dose Eye Cream.

As far as possible, products in the Truth In Aging shop are chosen for

their safety profile as well as effectiveness.

Tetrasodium EDTA

* A water softener and preservative * Please read TIA's post on What Is

It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
Tetrasodium EDTA is a water-soluble ingredient used as a chelating agent
in cosmetics and personal care products because of its ability to
sequester metal ions and allow them to remain in formulas but lose their
ability to react with other ingredients. This ability allows it to not only
soften water, but preserve formulas as well by improving its stability
when it is exposed to air and prevent microbial growth (Wikipedia).