Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2, 2015
India is widely revered for its vivacious art forms, vibrant culture and veracious heritage
of art, music and literature. While pointing towards the richness of handloom industry
and handicraft’s cultural heritage, Singh and Naik (2009) stated that “India has a rich.
Indians are world famous for their magnificent workmanship and produced the most
beautiful and exquisite hand spun and hand-woven textiles”.
Since ages, India has witnessed myriad political and demographical changes and so
has its culture. From Rajputs to Mughals to Portuguese to British, each race has left
indelible marks of its ethnicity on Indian culture thereby rendering it diverse colours and
combinations of preferences and palates. One of the cardinal aspects of its culture is the
various dresses worn in different parts of the country. Indian saree is one such dress
which is common to almost every Indian state and hailed as supreme in quality and
design. Banarasi silk sarees have been an integral part of the Indian sartorial landscape.
In the most ancient and sacred city of Varanasi, there thrives an equally ancient
tradition. During the Mughal era, all art was amalgamated to create a fusion of aesthetics.
Persian motifs and Indian designs on silk studded with gold and silver became a mark of
class and elegance. Varanasi is famous for its finest silk sarees and brocades. These
sarees are known for rich and intricately woven motifs of leaf, flowers, fruits, birds, etc.
on a soft colour background. They are enriched with intricate borders and heavily
decorated pallus. The centre is also known for its gauzi silver and gold tissues, which are
ultra light in weight and delicate. The kinkab of Banaras is legendary. It is a glittering
weave of gold and silver threads.
Banarasi silk is weaved mainly by using mulberry silk yarn (90%) and remaining
(10%) by Tasar, Munga and Eri silk. Banarasi silk fabric includes brocade, crepe,
Charmeuse, Doupioni, Noil, organza, satin, Jangla and Tanchoi. Silk, known as Pattu or
Reshami in southern parts of India and Resham in Hindi/Urdu (from Persian), has a long
history in India and is widely produced and purchased today. Historically, silk was used
by the upper classes. Today silk is mainly used in Bhoodhan Pochampally (also known as
silk city), Kanchipuram, Dharmavaram, Mysore, etc., in South India and Banaras in the
North for manufacturing garments and Sarees. ‘Murshidabad silk’, famous from
historical times, is mainly produced in Malda and Murshidabad District of West Bengal
and woven with handlooms in Birbhum and Murshidabad District. Another place famous
for production of silk is Bhagalpur. The silk from Kanchi is particularly well-known
for its classic designs and enduring quality. The silk is traditionally hand-woven and
hand-dyed and usually also has silver threads woven into the cloth. Most of this silk is
used to make sarees. The sarees usually are very expensive and vibrant in colour.
Bowonder and Sailesh (2005), in their case study of Kancheepuram silk sarees, talked
about the introduction of computerised Jacquard borders in the Kancheepuram silk saree
and pointed that silk industry in Kancheepuram became a high growth industry as new
avenues for the traditional weavers have been opened through usage of information and
communications technology (ICT).
Garments made from silk form an integral part of Indian weddings and other
celebrations. The heritage of silk rearing and weaving is very old and continues today
especially with the production of Muga and Pat riha and mekhela chador, the three-piece
silk sarees woven with traditional motifs. Mysore silk sarees, which are known for their
soft texture, last many years if carefully maintained.
214 A.K. Rai and M. Srivastava
Nadigar et al. (1995) examined the ‘Marvelous Kancheepuram silk sarees’ and found
that local market for these sarees is mainly limited to southern states of Andhra Pradesh,
Karnataka and Tamil Nadu where they are marketed in local cooperative societies. Also,
many progressive master weavers market the saree through retailers. Krishnamurthy et al.
(1996) chose to study the ‘Kumbhakonam sarees: a blend of tradition and modernity’ and
reported that these sarees have a sound domestic market in the southern state of the
country where they are sold mainly through retail outlets and get exported to overseas
like New Work (USA) and Singapore in limited numbers. Munikrishnappa et al. (1996)
in their study on ‘Silk fabric marketing’ found that government and private houses of
Mysore are primarily responsible for marketing of silk fabrics where pricing is an
important issue. They revealed that every silk showroom has a policy of fixed prices
determined either by the respective head offices in government-owned outlets or factors
such as profit margins, market demand, consumption patterns and purchasing power of
consumers. Mamatha and Naik (1997) carried their study among Ikat weavers of Andhra
Pradesh and argued that 70% of them transact with master weavers followed by
cooperative societies, wholesalers or consumers respectively. Sanapapamma (2000)
found that Molakalmuru weavers mostly sell their products to state show rooms in local
markets whereas some opt for neighbouring states.
Pandey (1981) pointed that exact time frame when Banaras began producing silk fabrics
is unknown. However, Jaiswal (2012) investigated the varying occupational structure and
economic profile of the Textile Industry of Banaras, Uttar Pradesh by interviewing
300 adult workers working in different sectors in seventeen different factories and
300 non-textile workers. He argued that the end of the nineteenth century witnessed two
kinds of cloth being produced in Banaras one of which was kamkhwab (kincob) or
brocade, also described as ‘cloth of gold’ and resembled the silk stuffs with fine floral
designs of zari and silver threads for which Banaras silk was celebrated. The other type of
cloth was plain silk mainly used during religious and auspicious occasions.
Rani (2006) suggested that silk production which is known as sericulture is an
agro-based rural and semi-urban industry that is vastly apposite for countries like India
characterised with agriculture dominated economies and need to generate employment
opportunities for rural landless labourers. Mahan (2012) in her study linked silk industry
to tourism in India and indicated towards the potential of silk industry in reducing the
harrowing problem of unemployment by stating that Assam silk earns significant foreign
exchange growth as it is exported to countries like England, Japan, Nepal, etc., and
promoting tourism in silk industry can help in reducing the problem of unemployment in
the Assam region.
Singh and Naik (2009) attempted to explore the socio-economic condition, marketing
practices and problems faced by weavers in Banaras and posited that in order to fulfil the
demand of the consumers from several socio-economic positions, the age old traditional
Banarasi sarees have been revamped by introducing various modifications and
adaptations in the motifs, type of zari, yarn type, saree length and reed count. They
interacted with the weavers who expressed their requirements such as “provision for raw
materials at reasonable price, special training to improve existing weaving technology,
knowledge about scientific and low cost techniques of weaving, dyeing and finishing,
Investigating distribution practices of Banarasi silk industry 215
financial assistance and other necessary inputs”. Geetha and Indira (2010) acknowledged
the prominent role of women in total production of cocoons in India and examined rural
women farmers’ political participation and political capital gained through participation
in sericulture activities.
Singh (2008) posited that although silk products have an organised market in India as
well as abroad, one of the main challenges of silk weaving industry is marketing of the
products. She listed following marketing practices prevalent in Indian silk industry:
• approximately three forth of the weavers (74%) sell silk sarees in local market and
one tenth of the weavers (11%) export silk sarees to countries like UK, Canada,
Malaysia, Mauritius, Singapore and certain African countries
• monthly sales cycle
• majority of the weavers sold their products directly to master weavers.
Singh and Naik (2009) proposed that market value of Banarasi silk sarees are not only
restricted to the host country but is present in other overseas countries as well. They
suggested initiatives like centralising the handloom weaving sector for achieving greater
consistency and constancy in the production in order to create adequate marketing
channels for silk sarees as well other diversified silk goods. They also expressed need of
advertising and publicising Banarasi silk sarees through advertisement, exhibition,
displays and trade fairs so that the variegated sarees could be showcased in co-operatives,
allied institutions and showrooms.
3 Research method
The research methods used to conduct the present study are presented in the following
sections:
4 Findings
Findings of the study are classified and presented into three broad sections in line with
the main objectives of the study and are as follows:
those who create them. In case of Banarasi silk products, the distribution channel is
multi-tier and contains a number of intermediaries right from raw material supplier to end
consumer. The distribution of Banarasi silk products takes place normally in wholesale,
retail and institutional forms.
1 The wholesale form: The wholesale market of Banarasi silk product is very large in
comparison to retail and institutional sale. Majority of the business gets transacted
through wholesalers. Wholesale buyers come from different parts of the country
and purchase based on their local tastes and preferences. Gujarat, Maharashtra,
Karnataka, Delhi, Bengal, etc., are the major buying centres of Banarasi silk. The
importers of the silk products meet the wholesaler and place order after inspecting
the sample provided by wholesaler. Thereafter, the wholesaler takes on the
responsibility of delivering goods at the buyers’ end. This sale is highly cyclical in
nature. At the time of festivals and marriages, the sales increase. Few of the big
sellers have their websites as well to provide general information. An important
feature of this mechanism is that many of the makers are unable to get good margins
and the real benefit is derived by the people selling at the retail end reaping the
maximum elasticity of demand. This wholesale business is largely located in the
Chowk area of Varanasi, where the sellers have got their shops or offices, popularly
called as ‘Gaddi’. This place is not very easy to commute. Traffic, parking, noise and
other infrastructure bottlenecks as electricity etc. does restrict the makers to present a
good show before the buyers.
2 The retail form: In case of retail business the wholesalers sell their product through
their own retail outlet or sell some products to the local shopkeepers as well.
There have been emergence of good quality retail stores in the city with good
product portfolio and mix of products variety and forms. Many of the big budget
manufacturers also own retail outlets in metros which they use as wholesale avenues
also. However, the organised structure of retail outlets is grossly missing.
3 The institutional sale form: Very petite attempts have been made by the marketers of
Banarasi silk industry to get an institutional ties up with big institutions, especially
with organised retail chains. This absence of a strategic relationship let the Banarasi
silk industry forego a huge market because there is a strong power of empty pipeline.
Consumer buying patterns, especially of high value purchases, have changed in the
recent past and there has been growing tendency among a significant number of
customers particularly in tier 1 and tier 2 cities to shop through organised retail
chains. Since only select few manufacturers made almost negligible efforts to
place their products at those stores, the high net worth customers are not able to
get exposed to the latest forms and designs of Banarasi silk and in case of younger
customers, the product are not tested before. There had been few tie-ups made in the
past to place the products at Shoppers Stop but somehow that broke down and since
then nothing has been done on that front.
218 A.K. Rai and M. Srivastava
So, the current status is that the institutional sale of Banarasi silk products is negligible.
One of the biggest reasons for this is that the industry structure is totally unorganised and
no one is willing to take the initiative of making it structured and organised.
Figure 1 Retail price difference is a problem (see online version for colours)
Distribution of Banarasi silk product industry is a big issue. The dissatisfaction has gone
to the extent that people have started suggesting for change in the existing structure.
Approximately 65% of the respondents voted for change and only 15% of the
respondents did not want any change. 19% of the respondents could not decide on the
suggested course of action. Hence, some initiative needs to be taken by the industry and
think over proposing a change in the distribution of Banarasi silk products.
5 Statement: You would buy Banarasi silk products from an organised store
than from a conventional retail store.
Result: Mean of the response is 4.01 and the standard deviation is .97
Out of 500 people surveyed, 1.7% of the respondent i.e., eight strongly disagreed with the
statement preferring organised store over conventional store, 6% i.e., 30 respondent
somewhat disagreed, 19.2% i.e., 96 respondents were neutral with the statement, 36%
i.e., 180 somewhat agreed and 37.2% i.e., 186 strongly agreed to having preferred
organised store of Banarasi silk products over their conventional store.
The mean of the acceptance to the concept is 80%. And over 73% of the respondents
were positive about the prospect of sale through organised retail format. All the
dissatisfaction and discomfort with the existing distribution may get checked by
organised retail chains. Such high response presents positive inclination toward the
concept of shopping from organised retail chains.
Table 5 Organised and conventional store
Figure 5 Organised and conventional store (see online version for colours)
not attempted to establish sustained relationship with organised retail. Sale to the
organised retail players like Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Westside and others could have
been leveraged. There is also no attempt to open there own chain of retail stores or enter
into tie ups with design houses.
5 Conclusions
Marketing practices needs to be customised keeping in mind the changing trends of the
market. The numerous small players at Varanasi have not been able to come together or
pool capacity for dealing with the market or the policy environment which is responsible
for the continued decline. These small players can come together to form a big entity and
bring in technology and financial resources required to give a decisive push to the cluster
and be accountable for return on labour and working condition.
A distribution decision is done through marketing channel that performs the work of
moving goods from producers to consumers. It overcomes the time, place and possession
gaps that separate goods and services from those who need or want them. In case of
Banarasi silk products, the distribution channel is multi-tier and contains a number of
intermediaries right from raw material supplier to end consumer. The distribution of
Banarasi silk products takes place normally in wholesale, retail and. Institutional forms.
2 Building strategic tie ups: Strategic tie-ups with different stakeholders is missing.
There can be variety of stages of developing such strategic relationship. These
strategic relationships could be with suppliers, logistics partners, packaging partners,
channel partners and even customers. Forging strategic relationship with them
would:
a increase efficiency
b reduce cost.
These resultants would make the Banarasi silk products more competitive at the
market place. Kanjivaram silk had a tie with Indian Airlines for usage of its sarees
by air hostesses. Similar was followed by Sahara. Banarasi silk could also attempt
for such tie-ups.
3 Introducing the concept of maximum retail price (MRP): There has to have some
attempts by the industry to popularise the use of MRP among the retailers. This
would be helpful in imparting confidence among the customers. Though the model
has inherent complications of as Banarasi silk product is not entirely a homogeneous
product. The products are design-based and different designs have different cost,
time and effort. To begin with, first retail stores may be encouraged to start
practicing MRP. Subsequently, MRP may be introduced at industry level. This
would create a major transition from being an unorganised industry to more
organised and structured industry. Industry level MRP may be started with the
products that are homogeneous as silk that is sold in length largely used for men’s
kurta and shirts. Those are the products largely plain in design. Then, the home
furnishing items can also be taken up for use of MRP.
4 Introducing a regulatory mechanism for price control at retail end: Another
important step towards correcting the problems in fixing price is introduction
of some regulatory mechanism in controlling price at retail end. This would check
the ill treatment and cheating on customers. Banaras is a holy place and many of
pilgrimage come from different parts of the country throughout the year. One of
the things that are sold in good quantity is the Banarasi silk products. Deceiving the
tourists on price front results in bad reputation of not only the industry but also of the
city and its people.
5 Training the people involved in sales activity: People involved in the sales of
Banarasi silk needs to be trained thoroughly on issues related to sales and pricing in
particular. Attempt needs to be undertaken to make them realise the importance of
the customer and also on how to deal with the customer especially on the issues
related to prices and pricing.
6 Increased use of technology to optimise process and reduce cost: There are varieties
of technologies used in modern businesses to create efficiency and effectiveness in
the business. Another direct advantage of use of technology is reduction in cost.
Variety of software such as enterprise resource planning (ERP) software, customer
relationship management (CRM) software, design and accounting software are being
employed in different aspects of business and can be effectively used in the interest
of the industry. The entire supply chain management, quantity and combination
inputs requirement, their lead time, follow up of various processes, stages of output
delivery, requirements of the customers, projected demand for various product
226 A.K. Rai and M. Srivastava
segments etc. can all be managed through ERP software. Its application would not
only increase efficiency of the process but also help the industry reduce the cost.
Similarly CRM software may enable the industry to have better awareness about
their customers, their buying and buying patterns, seasonal fluctuations of the orders
and effectively be leveraged to build and sustain relationship with them. The
reduction of cost may either be used for reducing the prices of the final output thus,
leading to increment of demand or be used as a margin that may subsequently be
used for advancement of the processes, building brand of the business and sharing it
with other stakeholders.
7 Forward integration: The prices of many of the Banarasi silk products are high but
the makers in most of the cases are not the real reason and the beneficiary of this
incident. This is because the industry does not have any forward integration strategy.
Forward integration links the manufacturers with the customers. This provides
several advantages to the manufacturers. As manufacturers keep getting customers
responses to its marketing practices, they feed the business better with timely and
adequate supply of information and above all, become the master of the business in
real sense by having control over majority of the profits generated out of business.
This profit not only helps business sustain the bad times and enhance the processes
but also check any wrong doings of the intermediary. And ultimately, all these
advantages get passed on to the customers who are the real reason for existence of
any business.
8 Strategising point of purchase (POP): It has been found in the study conducted
among the buyers of Banarasi silk products that they have had the experience of
paying different prices to different retail stores. The distribution channel of Banarasi
silk products is highly traditional while the purchasing pattern of the consumers has
changed tremendously in the recent past. As regards retail sale in Varanasi, sale is
executed through stores located in the traditional narrow lanes of the specific area of
the city as Chowk, Kachori Gali, Nichibagh, Maidagin, Thatheri Bazar, etc. The area
lacks even the obvious requisites of modern shoppers like good ambience, parking
facility, nice display, professional sales people to support, etc. The net result is that
only those people come for shopping who are in serious need of purchase. Modern
purchase is hugely dependent on spontaneous purchases as modern businesses are
heavily based on dependent marketing and not need dependent marketing. Hence,
a conducive environment needs to be created to promote shoppers to come and
purchase. The other form of retail sale is through modern looking shops. But, the
quality of sales people and sales process does not conform to the standards. These
shops do take care of the ambience but fail to appreciate the importance of sales
experience which has become a necessity of modern business.
9 Establishment of service infrastructure along with retail sale: Customers were found
to be very positive towards availability of service infrastructure. To begin with,
product maintenance could be offered along with product sale. This would infuse
confidence among the customer and relieve them from the issue of maintaining the
products. Especially, in case of sales to newer region and institutions, the industry or
the government or both under public-private partnership may take some initiatives to
provide training to the staff in case of institutional buyers as hotels, offices, airlines,
etc.
Investigating distribution practices of Banarasi silk industry 227
Acknowledgements
The authors would like thank the two anonymous referees and editor for their comments
in the subsequent development of this paper. The responsibility for any remaining errors
rests with the authors.
Investigating distribution practices of Banarasi silk industry 229
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