Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Chapter Outline:
Learning objectives
The student must be able to:
1. Explain the functions, systems and procedures of the Linen Room.
2. List the staff required in the Linen Room. Chalk out their job description.
3. List the different types of hotel linen and their sizes.
4. Identify and discuss suitable fabrics for hotel linen.
5. Calculate the length of material required for table cloths and serviettes.
6. Explain the criteria involved in planning Linen Room.
7. Plan a Linen Room.
8. Evaluate any hotel Linen Room as regards to layout and systems and
procedures. Suggest improvements.
9. Explain Key Terms
SBN /648/AO/3rd/4th
SEM/ BSC H&HA
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TOPIC -1: LINEN & UNIFORM ROOM
The linen and uniform room is a central depot for all hotel linen and this is the place from
where clean articles of linen are distributed throughout the establishment.
There are primarily two types of linen rooms – centralized and decentralized.
Centralized linen room: In this system, linen from all floors are collected and sorted in
one central area.
Decentralized linen room: In this system, each floor maintains its own par stock of linen.
Objective: Ensure clean, fresh, crisp linen and uniforms are provided for hotel operations
within the budgets forecasted by the Housekeeper.
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13. Discarding of unusable linen
Location:
Close to the Housekeeping Office. Easy accessibility for the Housekeeper.
Close to the Staff lockers for convenience of staff in exchanging uniforms.
Easy accessibility to the OPL or the Hotel back entrance in case of commercial
laundry.
Easy accessibility to the Service elevators for transporting Room linen to the
Floors.
Away from Food Production area as food smells can get absorbed by linen.
Space Allocation:
The thumb rule states that the space requirement for a linen & uniform room varies
between 4 – 6 sq. ft. per room.
Provide for more area if there is no OPL and if soil linen needs to be stored until it
is transported to the laundry.
Linen storage areas with linen exchange counters.
Uniform storage area with Uniform Exchange Counter.
Soil Linen collection Area.
Inspection Area
Supervisor's desk area.
Sewing room.
Guest laundry area
Entrance:
Ideally the linen room should have only one entrance/exit point for security reasons.
Ideally a stable type door is recommended which could deter unauthorized persons from
walking in. Moreover this could function as an Exchange Counter. The entrance must be
atleast 4 ft wide without a threshold for easy movement of trolleys.
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Floors & walls:
Floors must be sturdy enough to take the movement of loaded trolleys. Walls must be of
the type which can be easily cleaned.
Inspection Area:
The inspection area is occupied by the Inspection table which should be large enough
to accommodate the freshly washed linen which need to be inspected. A 100 room
property could perhaps make do with a table of size 10 ft × 6 ft. This need not be one
solid piece but could be separated if required. The color of the Inspection table should
contrast with the linen. Since this occupies a lot of space. the underneath of the table
can be utilized for storage.
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Floor and storage units of this area should be of a surface which does not stain the damp
linen.
Sewing Room:
This area must have enough space to accommodate sewing machines, cutting table
(inspection table could be used if there is a shortage of space), bins to hold linen,
uniforms to be repaired, cupboards for storing threads needles and other sewing
requirement, fabrics..
Supervisor's desk:
Should be located in such a way that he/she has a good view of the entire linen &
uniform room especially the transaction points. Cupboards, desk must be designed to
accommodate files, records etc.
Linen is the highest annual cost inventory in the housekeeping department, hence getting
good value for money spent should be an important priority for an executive
housekeeper.
1.2.2 Quality Specifications – linen & soft furnishing. (Selection criteria for fabrics)
Fabrics must not only retain their appearance throughout their useful life, but also must
be serviceable, easy to maintain and long lasting. Most of the fabrics are woven; though
some may be knitted, netted or bonded. Out of the woven fabrics, plain woven fabrics are
the most common. A plain woven fabric consists of wefts (breadth wise yarns) and warps
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(lengthwise yarns), held in place by the selvedges along the lengthwise edges. The
number of warps and wefts in a square inch area is called thread count. The higher the
thread counts the better the strength. However, the balance, i.e. the ratio of the warps and
wefts must be as close as possible
a. Strength:
Type of fibre: Much of the strength of the fabric depends on the type of
fibre used. Synthetic fibres like polyester, acrylic have more strength than
natural ones like cotton and wool.
The type of weave and the closeness of weave also affect fabric strength.
Check the strength of the selvedges by tugging at it.
Pilling or bobbling weakens the fabric. Check by rubbing a dark colored
cloth vigorously against a light colored one to see if linters or ‘dressing’
loosen out.
b. Color:
Color, pattern & texture in fabrics can bring about character to a room. But
one should not forget ease of maintenance.
Most hotels prefer white linen as they can be safely laundered without the
fear of color fading.
Colored fabric must be checked for dye stability. Fabric dyed at the yarn
stage (vat dyed) is definitely more color fast than the ones dyed at the fabric
stage.
Dyed natural fibres will fade after several washings.
Dark colored fabrics show dust and lighter marks, whereas light colored
shows dirt and stains easily. These will be less apparent in a medium toned
fabric.
Colors chosen must be easily available when replacements are required.
c. Laundering:
Laundering costs come next to labour costs. Synthetics require lesser
temperatures and shorter programmes for laundering when compared to cotton.
No-iron blends do not need ironing.
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d. Comfort:
Comfort is affected by feel, (texture) and weight of the cloth. Any fabric which is
in contact with the skin must be absorbent. Cottons have a very high absorbency
when compared to synthetics.
e.. Shrinkage.
Synthetics do not shrink whereas natural fibres shrink 6-8% unless they have been
sanforized. Wool looses its shape if not carefully laundered.
g. Flame retardency:
Wool is naturally flame retardant. Synthetic fabrics like Teklan which are made
flame retardant are available, though not yet in India. Flame retardant fabrics can
be used for drapery, upholstery, carpets.
h. Thermal insulation:
Thermal insulation properties or warmth of a fabric is measured in units called
togs. These must be checked in blankets. Drapery should also help to maintain the
temperature of a room.
Please note: Linen bought for hospitals must be able to withstand very high wash
temperatures for sanitizing.
Room linen:
Type of fabric recommended for bed sheets & pillow covers: Cotton or polycot.
Polycot sheets combine the advantages of cotton and polyester.
Plain weave with a recommended thread count of 180.
Mostly white preferred for easy laundering.
The average lifespan of a cotton bed sheet is about 200 washes; whereas a polycot bed
sheets lasts more than 500 washes. Polycot bed sheets are easy care- need low
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temperatures for washing drying and ironing. Hence laundering costs are cheaper.
In India, cotton being cheaper can cost less than half the cost of polycot.
Blankets: Woolen blankets are being replaced by acrylic. Acrylics resemble wool, is
much more durable (does not get affected by moths), does not mat, easy to
launder(wool needs to be dry
cleaned, goes out of shape when washed), lighter and not scratchy.
Blankets are being replaced by quilts and duvets.
Mattress pads: Their main function is to protect the mattress. It is normally made of a
quilted fabric. The filling may be cotton or synthetic fibre.
Absorbency, durability and softness are the requirements of bath linen. Heavier towels
are more absorbent. Piles need to be as close as possible for greater absorbency and
strength. Hold it against the light to check for closeness. The longer the pile the greater
the absorbency; but durability may be reduced as the long piles may get pulled easily
while laundering. Hence 1/8 inch pile is the recommended height. Uncut piles are more
absorbent but cut piles have a much softer feel. Dyed towels are less absorbent than
whites as they have already absorbed the dye.
Selvedge edges are more durable than hemmed ends.
Table linen:
Must have both practical and aesthetic uses. Napery must be clean, fresh and crisp.
Fancy folded napkins lend an air of elegance to the restaurant.
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The most commonly used fabric for table cloths, naperons and serviettes are
Casement or Damask. Casement fabrics are usually cotton or linen of a plain
weave.
Damasks can be made of cotton, linen or polycot, are self-coloured and are of a
patterned weave. They are considered elegant are used in up-class restaurants.
Though double damask looks better than single damask, they are not as durable.
Table cloths must hang atleast 9 inches on the sides.
Though polycot fabrics are more durable, they tend to retain grease stains and
hence best avoided.
Napkins must be 100% Cotton or Linen since it needs to be absorbent and must be
starched to be folded into fancy shapes.
Silence Cloths or Under lays: Baize or any felt. Moulton is a cheaper alternative.
Skirts/ Frills/ Jupes: They may be pleated or left unpleated. Drapability is an
important requirement. And hence they are made of satin. Satins made of
synthetic fibres are more durable.
Waiter's cloth: 100% cotton. (Casement).
Drapability is an important factor for drapery. Hence fabrics which drape well like
satins, silks (expensive) are chosen. Loosely woven fabrics will never drape well; they
sag. Curtains which don't have a good drape can be improved upon by providing heavier
hems.
Generally, fabrics for soft furnishing are much more expensive and are not easy to
launder. Hence choose fabrics which can withstand weathering (curtains), soil etc. Stain
repellent finishes like Scotchgard prevents spills from seeping into the fabric.
Bedcovers can be stitched in various styles. The total material required will be – the
length and width of the bed, the drop on all three sides and the extra required to tuck
under the pillows which could work out to approximately 8 metres for a single bed.
Curtains used in guest room are of two types: Heavy and sheer. Curtains must be give
privacy. During the daytime light should also filter in. Net or sheer or lace curtains
provide enough privacy during the daytime while filtering the sunlight in. But in the
night this may not be sufficient, hence heavy curtains are needed both for privacy and
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keeping the light out. Sheer curtains are normally made of cotton or polyester. But
polyester is far more superior as regards to durability, appearance, and maintenance
Lining, stitched to heavy curtains can protect the fabric from direct sunlight. It also gives
a heavier look.
Ensure that curtains look good both in the day and nighttime as they look different in the
daytime when sunlight filters through the material and in the night when the light falls on
the material.
Beautiful patterns may be lost when the curtain is pleated. So check the material in folds
to see the effect before purchasing.
Since curtains need to be joined and stitched; avoid buying large patterns as they lead to
wastage while aligning.
Insulation: Aluminium particles (milieum) applied on the backing of the curtains reflects
back sunlight and keeps the room cool. When reversed it also helps to trap the warmth
inside the room in cold seasons.
The life span of linen is measured in terms of how many times it can be laundered before
becoming too worn to be suitable for guest room use. Durability, laundry considerations
and purchase price are the main criteria that an executive housekeeper has to bear in mind
while selecting linen.
Where Life-span laundering cost = Item weight * Laundering cost per kg * no. of
launderings withstood
Purchase Of Linen
Principles of purchasing
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There are five primary principles of purchasing that need to be upheld by the
housekeeping department and the purchase department: right quality, right quantity, right
place, right time, and the right source of supply.
Stages in Purchasing
1. pre-order stage
2. Receipt of purchase indent
3. Floating enquiries
4. Procurement of samples for approval
5. Quotation and ordering
6. Issue of purchase order
7. Confirmation of receipt of purchase order
8. Follow-up
9. Dispatch advice
10. Receipt note
11. Payment
Purchase of linen
Linen is the most important recycled inventory item in the housekeeping department. It is
also the biggest expense next to salaries and wages of the housekeeping staff. Linen
articles may require replacement due to wear and tear of initial purchases or items getting
lost in the course of use. Linen articles that may need to be frequently replaced include
bed linen and bath linen. The inventory records of linen are a tool to help establish how
long the existing stock will last. To ensure that the purchased linen is worth the money
spent, the executive housekeeper must consider:
The suitability of the products
The expected useful lifespan of the linen
The purchasing price
The costs of laundering
The cost of maintaining linen over its useful life is usually much greater and more
important than its initial purchase price. Thus, the cost per use should be calculated in
order to evaluate linen purchases, using the following formula:
The quantity of each item of linen to be purchased annually is decided by assessing the
hotel’s quarterly requirements in order that the ideal par stock is maintained. The
inventory records are used to calculate an annual consumption rate that determines how
much linen is used up and cannot be considered in the linen par. The annual linen
purchases are made using the following formula:
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Annual order = (par stock level- linen on hand) + expected annual consumption
Where consumption = Discards + discrepancies.
The executive housekeeper must emphasize the inspection of fresh and soiled linen
not only by the linen room staff but also other staff handling linen. Stringent checking
should be carried out by the linen room staff.
2. Quantity control of the daily flow of linen stock/ linen exchange procedure
This is the quantity control of linen sent from the floors and departments to the linen
room for dispatch to the laundry. To maintain an initial record of the par stock of
linen in each department and on each floor and also of any subsequent increase in the
quantity of linen, an indent is made by the floor supervisor and the department in
charge
Proper linen exchange procedures are essential in the control of linen. The linen room
entry book acts as a control tool. This contains daily records of the soiled linen
brought to the linen room from the various floors and departments as well as the
amount of soiled linen sent to the laundry.
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Linen Indent Form
Floor/ Department………….. Sl. No…………….
Purpose Of Indent…………… Date………………
Stock taking of linen is the physical verification of the stocks of all linen items at all
points in the cycle. It is carried out at periodic intervals or at the time of the closing of
books for evaluation purposes. Accurate recording of entries is important during stock
taking. The physical counting is done after every three months and is known as a
quarterly inventory. First, all items- including discards- are segregated and grouped.
Then items in circulation and items kept in store are counted up separately and the
totals are added together. The discards are stamped ‘condemned’ and set aside. Now
the counted total should tally with the last inventory figure plus the issued items
received after that.
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The master inventory control sheet helps the executive housekeeper analyse the
results of the physical inventory. By subtracting the counted total for each linen article
from the expected quantity corresponding, the executive housekeeper can accurately
determine the number lost.
The completed master inventory control sheet should be submitted along with the
linen discard record to the general manager. The general manager will then verify and
initial the report before transferring it to the accounts department.
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Master inventory control sheet
Location name……..Inventory date……… Inventory prepared by………..
Sign. Of the housekeeper………….
Sign. Of the general manager……………
Part 1
1. Linen item
2. last inventory data
3. New received
4. Subtotal(2+3)
5. Recorded discard
6. Total(4-5)
Part 2
7. Storage room
8. Storage room
9. Storage room
10. Linen room
11. Laundry
12. On carts
13. In rooms
14. On rollaways, cribs..
15.
(7+8+9+10+11+12+13+14)
Part 3
16. Losses(6-15)
17. Par stock
18. Amount needed(17-15)
19. Order
20. Need to order(18-19)
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Procedure for Room linen Inventory
trolleys
rooms
Laundry - Responsibility – Laundry Sup. &
laundry attendants
Linen Room - Responsibility – Linen Room sup. and
attendants
2) Calculate Total Actual Stock
3) Compare the Actual stock with the Book stock (Book stock = Previous stock +
Receipts – Discards) to arrive at Discrepancies.
Drscard: Any item which is no longer useful in its present condition due to permanent
stains, wear and tear. Discarded items are also termed as condemned. Discarded items are
stamped and preferably dyed a different colour and used as cleaning cloths. Discarded
items must be reduced from the stock.
Cut downs: are those condemned items which are converted into something useful. E.g.,
Bedsheets can be cut down into pillow covers, table cloths into serviettes. The discarded
item must be reduced from stock and the converted new item must be added to the stock.
For example: If 6 single bed sheets are converted into 30 pillow covers,
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Discrepancy: Loss of any item causes a difference or variance between the Actual stock
and Book stock. This loss is unaccounted and can be found only if an inventory is taken.
Shrink or shorts are also terms used to indicate loss of linen.
Discard procedure:
All items which are not in a useable state are stored separately. The users, for example
room attendants send down damaged linen separately to the linen room. On any particular
day, the Housekeeper with the Financial Controller checks the items to be discarded and
either approves or disapproves for discarding. The items which have not been approved
for discards are put back into rotation with suitable repairs. The items which are
discarded, are stamped “DISCARD”, and reduced from the stock. If used as cleaning
cloths, they are dyed a different colour to prevent misuse of good useable items.
ACTIVITIES
1. Calculate parstock.
2. Write the job description and job specification of all linen room staff.
3. Draw the constructin of the following weaves:- plain weave, basket weave, twill
weave, satin weave, sateen weave, dobby weave.
4. Collect samples of different types of fabrics with varying weaves.
5. List the advantages and disadvantages of linen hire. As the housekeeper of a 100
rooms five star hotel, would you go for hired linen? Justify your answer
ASSIGNMENT
Draw to scale the layout of a linen room of a five star hotel with 200 guest rooms.
SUGGESTED READING
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UNIFORMS
OBJECTIVES:
Uniforms are outfits of a specified material, colour and design, usually provided by the
establishment, for certain staff such that all employees in an equivalent or similar position
wear identical outfits. Uniforms are issued to most people who work in the hospitality
industry. Employees in the back of the areas normally wear functional yet pleasing
uniforms.
In most hotels, the housekeeping department is the custodian of uniforms for all hotel
employees. A reasonable uniform programme should allow the issue of two uniforms to
each employee upon employment and a third set on confirmation.
Having uniforms for the staff is an essential at most hospitality properties, for the
following reasons:
They ensure a well groomed appearance for staff.
They help to create an atmosphere or set the scene.
They help identify the hotel staff and their position to the guest.
They help differentiate between staff and guests.
If made in the right design of work, they provide comfort for the staff.
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They instill a feeling of belongingness and loyalty to the establishment among the
staff.
They enhance the spirit of teamwork.
They allow employees to save money on working clothes and costs of laundering.
It is easier for staff to take up messy jobs when they know that their own clothes
are not involved.
Some uniforms may have a protective role.
Some uniforms may confer prestige on the wearer
Uniforms are issued against a specific authorization letter received from the personnel
department. The employee is required to sign for his or her particular uniform. A uniform
slip is also provided to the employee. The uniform is then issued from the linen room.
I accept the responsibility of the uniform/s issued to me. I understand that the uniform
should not be taken out of the hotel premises. On leaving the organization, the uniform/s
shall be duly returned to the uniform room.
………………………………
Signature of the employee.
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Uniforms are usually given to employees on a one-to-one basis, that is, one fresh
uniform for a soiled one. On leaving the organization, an employee has to get a signature
for uniform clearance from the linen room supervisor, failing which the last pay cheque is
withheld.
o For regular employees, ensure that they have arrived for uniform exchange at the
stipulated time.
o Check the uniform being returned for any damage.
o Issue a fresh uniform strictly on a one for one basis.
o Make out the uniform exchange slip in duplicate during an exchange.
o Damaged uniforms to be reported immediately.
Uniform Register
Date Laundry No. Time received Time cleared Remarks
at counter from counter
Terry cots are the most popular choice for uniforms as they have the advantages of both
natural and synthetic fibres. Suiting materials are used for trousers, skirts. Drill is the
popular choice for cooks coats and aprons as they are cool, durable and easy to maintain.
Gabardine or any white suiting material may be used for chefs coats as they keep up
their appearance. Employees in the back-of-the-house areas normally wear functional, yet
pleasing uniforms. Uniforms for the Restaurant and Front Office staff must not only be
functional but also must go with the ambience of the area they work in. For example, a
pool side restaurant in a resort property can have stewards dressed in Bermudas and a
floral shirt with accessories like a straw hat and sandals. A hotel which is very `Indian'
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can have a doorman dressed up like a royal Punjabi guard with a lot of accessories
(head gear, brass buttons, lance..)
1. The general profile of the employees must be taken into account. Their cultural
background, age etc. Some hotels even involve the staff concerned while
designing.
2. The kind of image the hotel wishes to project and the ambience to be created must
be considered.
4. Climatic conditions of the place must be considered, if the hotel is not centrally air
conditioned. A full sleeved Terylene shirt with a tie can be stifling for a steward in
a humid area. Generally cooks and maintenance crew use 100% cotton uniforms
(drill).
5. Laundering and maintaining the uniforms is another challenge. Blends are easier
to maintain. However blends are not recommended for employees working in
greasy areas(cooks, maintenance) as synthetics and blends do not let go off
greasy and perspiration stains easily. Lesser the accessories, lesser the headache
of keeping a tab of them.
6. The fabric chosen for uniforms must be readily available whenever new uniforms
are required.
7. Turnover of staff is another challenge. Free size uniforms can be used in high
turnover areas. Trouser or skirt waist band can be elasticized to accommodate
different sizes.
8. Budget
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Assignment 1:
Uniform Designing
Design a uniform for a hotel employee of any designation keeping the points
mentioned below:
S.No. Criteria Marks allotted Marks obtained
1. Profile of the Organization 3
2. Department, designation 2
3. Ambience 4
4. Design description 6
5, Design Visuals 6
7. Accessories 3
9. Cost 6
10. Presentation 4
TOTAL 50
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Sewing Room
A. Activities and areas to be provided
B. Equipment provided.
The first essential for successful sewing is a good work area. Ideally it should be a small
room set apart for the purpose.
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Altering uniforms
Patching of table linen
Repairing expensive linens such as curtains, bedcovers, and slipovers that require
a minimum of repair.
Making of pillow cases, sheets and bed spreads.
Repairing hems of sheets
Mending of guest clothing.
Repairing mats and rugs
Making of pads for the polishing of silver from used mattress pads
Converting condemned linen into reusable forms
Stitching of upholstery
Making recommendations for the quantity of material required for upholstery,
curtains and so on…
Sewing Area
Good lighting in the sewing room is essential. Storage space should be provided for
fabrics, patterns and smaller equipment. A pegboard screen is useful for hanging tools,
clothes and storage bags. The work surface should be large enough, atleast 2*1 sq.m, for
cutting and pinning, and also firm enough to bear the load of the sewing machine. Small
items such as thread, zippers, and trimming should be stored in a basket, workbox or
shallow drawer. Repairs should be made with 100% polyester threads, which give
strength and do not shrink.
Equipment Provided
Cutting tools
Fabric shears or scissors should be used only for cutting fabrics, as using them on paper
will blunt them. Small scissors with sharp pointed ends for buttonholes, embroidery etc.
A seam ripper cuts stitching without harming the fabric. Pinking shears give a zigzag ,
fray resistant finish to raw edges.
Measuring Tools
Choose a fiberglass tape measure. A metre stick or metre rule is essential. A set square is
needed when cutting upholstery.
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Pins And Pincushions
Use fine, sharp pins, preferably 18mm long.
Pattern Paper
Sewing Machines.
Permanent Stitches
For all permanent stitches, a single strand of thread matching the predominant colour of
the fabric of the fabric is used.
1. joining stitches: these are used to sew two pieces of fabric together and make a seam.
2. running stitch: very similar to basting but the stitches are smaller.
3. backstitch: this si a strong stitch and sometimes substituted for machine stitching.
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Fasteners: used on garments to keep plackets closed.
Chapter Outline
Objectives:
A hotel laundry is responsible for laundering hotel linen, staff uniforms and guests’
personal clothes. Everyday, thousands of linen have to be washed or dry-cleaned, dried
and ironed within a matter of few hours.
Operating a laundry involves operating costs like labour, energy, chemicals and water.
Wrong laundering procedures and indiscriminate use of chemicals can lead to a poor
finish or can cause damage to the fabric.
Hence a person in charge of the laundry needs to have the technical know how in
operating and maintaining a laundry, efficiently. This topic gives an insight into setting
up and running a hotel laundry.
(a) Commercial laundries : These laundries cater to hotels on a contract basis. The
contract specifies the rate for laundering different pieces of linen; the time taken for
laundering etc. (Usually the soiled linen are laundered and delivered back within 24 –
48 hours.) They are allowed to keep back 3 – 5% of the soiled linen for stain removal
etc. This is a good option if the hotel does not want to make heavy investment in
setting up their own laundry and has space constraints.
(b) OPL – On Premises Laundry: The hotel has its own laundry, which may be run
by the management or managed on a contract. Setting up a laundry involves high capital
expenditures. The type of equipment to be used, their capacities and how well a laundry
needs to be designed is of par.Many hotels are ready to make this heavy investment to
provide quality service to the guests. More care is taken while laundering, since it is
under the direct responsibility of the hotel. Services are faster (maximum 8 hours),
hence parstocks are reduced. Better supervision and better control and hence longer
life for linen. There are lesser chances of pilferage, since the linen does not leave the
premises. However, contingency plans must be made in case of equipment failure.
One must be able to fall back on a commercial laundry or another hotel laundry.
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(c) Laundromats: These are self service laundries, found in motels.
Collecting Soiled Linens : Room attendants cleaning guestrooms should strip linens
from beds and bath areas and put them directly into the soiled linen bags attached to the
housekeeping cart. Stewards should shake napkins and tablecloths over a waste
receptacle to remove crumbs and food as soon as possible after the table is cleared. These
are then later sent to the linen room. In the linen room ,the soiled linen are sorted,
counted and recorded before they are sent to the Laundry. Soiled linen should be sent
within 24 hours to avoid stains from setting in and prevent the formation of mildew. The
collection time is usually fixed so that it does not hamper the normal functioning of the
linen room. Linens can then be placed in soiled linen hampers or trolleys for delivery to
the laundry.
Transporting Soiled Linens to the Laundry : Linens are either hand-carried or carted
to the OPL. Employees who are hand-carrying linens should be careful not to allow
items to drag on the floor, further soiling them. Dragging linens can also create safety
hazards for staff who could trip over trailing items. Linen carts should be free of
protrusions that could snag or tear items. Carts should move easily, and staff should be
able to load and unload linens without undue bending and stretching.
Sorting: The OPL should contain a sorting area large enough to store a day’s worth of
laundry without slowing down other activities in the OPL. Soiled linens should be sorted
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by the degree of soiling
by the type of fabric
by the colour of fabric.
This type of sorting help prevent unnecessary wear and damage to linens. Cleaning
rags should always be separated and washed by themselves , never with linen that guests
will use. 3
Sorting by Degree of Soiling: When sorting by degree of soiling, laundry workers divide
linens into three categories: lightly, moderately, and heavily soiled. Heavily soiled items
require heavy duty wash formulas and longer wash time. Moderately or lightly soiled
linens are washed with gentler formulas and in fewer cycles. (Sheets are usually
classified as lightly soiled, while pillow cases are considered moderately soiled.)
Without sorting by soil, all linens would have to be washed in heavy-duty formula.
Lightly soiled items would be over-processed, leading to unnecessary wear. Sorting by
soil also saves repeat washing of items to remove stubborn soils and stains.
Sorting, of course, can lead to partial loads of laundry. Doing too many partial loads
wastes energy and water. However, if heavily soiled fabrics are not washed promptly,
stains could set and ruin the item. Some OPLs solve this problem by providing several
different sizes of washers so that smaller loads can be washed promptly without wasting
water and energy.
Sorting by Linen Type and colour: Different fibers, weaves, and colors require
different cleaning formulas and washing methods. Sorting linens by type ensures that the
right temperature and formulas are used on similar fabrics. Wool and loosely woven
fabrics, for example, require a mild formula and gentle agitation. Colors should not be
washed with chlorine bleach. New colored linens should be washed separately the first
few times to avoid dyeing other fabrics. Some special items such as aprons should be
washed in nylon bags to prevent tangling.
Washing: After linens are sorted, laundry workers collect batches of laundry and deliver
them to the washers. Linens should be weighed before they are put into the washer to
ensure that washers are not overloaded. Weighing is also important for measuring OPL
output Laundry workers at some hotels pre-treat soiled linens before washing them.
However, pre treating laundry takes a great deal of time and can increase labor costs
dramatically. As a result, most OPLs rely on the chemicals used in the washer to clean
linens.
4.3 Wash Cycles : The typical wash process consists of as many as nine steps:
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3. Suds/ Mainwash (5 to 8 minutes) – This is the actual wash cycle to which
detergent is added. Items are agitated in hot water at low water levels.
4. Bleach (5 to 8 minutes, optional) – Bleach is added to kill bacteria, whiten
5. Rinse (3- 5 minutes) – Two or more rinses at medium temperatures and high
water levels are used to remove detergent and soil from the linens.
6. Sour/softener or starch/sizing (3 to 5 minutes) – Softeners and sours are added to
7. condition fabric. The cycle runs at medium temperature and at low water levels.
Starches are added to stiffen cotton fabrics; sizing is added for polyester blends.
Starching/sizing replaces the sour/softener step.
8. Extract (1 to 5 minutes) – A high-speed spin removes most of the moisture from
the linens. The length of the spin depends on fabric type, extractor capacity, and
extractor speed.
Soaking of very soiled clothes are done. This is optional.
Extracting: Extracting removes excess moisture from laundered items through a high-
speed spin. This step is important because it reduces the weight of the laundry and makes
it easier for workers to lift the laundry and move it to dryers. Extracting also reduces
drying time. Most washing machines now have extracting capabilities.
Drying ; Items that are dried generally include towels, washcloths, and some no-iron
items. Drying times and temperatures vary considerably for different types of linens. In
every case, however, drying should be followed by a cool-down tumbling period to
prevent the hot linens from being damaged or wrinkled by rapid cooling and handling.
After drying, linens should be removed immediately for folding. If folding is delayed,
wrinkles will set in.
Dryers should never be pre-warmed or run when empty. This can lead to “hot spots”
which can damage fabric or cause fires. It also wastes energy.
Ironing : Sheets, pillowcases, table cloths, and slightly damp napkins go directly to
flatwork irons. Ironers vary in size and degree of automation. Uniforms are generally
pressed in special ironing equipment. Steam tunnels are being used more often for
removing wrinkles from polyester blend uniforms.
Storing : After folding, the items are post-sorted and stacked. Post-sorting separates any
linen types and sizes that were missed in pre-sorting. There should be enough storage
room for at least one par. Finished items should be allowed to “rest” on shelves for 24
hours after laundering because many types of linens are more easily damaged right after
washing. Once linens are on shelves, yellowing and fading can be spotted quickly.
Transferring Linens to Use Areas : Linens are usually transferred to their use areas via
carts. Fresh linen carts should never be used for soil linen pick up as this may lead to
cross contamination. This is especially important in hospitals. It is a good idea to colour
code fresh and soil linen carts.
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4.4 Equipment Used In The Laundry
OPL machinery is a major investment in itself and affects the life span of other major
investment-linens. The choice of OPL machines and equipment could mean the
difference between a financially successful and a disastrous OPL. Machines with
insufficient capacity, for example, result in damaged linens, unsatisfactory cleaning
performance, excessive energy and water costs, or increased maintenance costs.
Improperly maintained equipment can also lead to higher linen and equipment costs. List
of machines and equipment used in the laundry are:
1. Washing Machine }
2. Hydro Extractor } or Wash Extractor
3. Tumbler or Drier
4. Finishing Machine - Calendering Machine or Rotary Ironer
- Steam press
- Flat Iron
- Suzies/ Genies
5. Folding Machine
6. Weighing scale
7. Dry cleaning machine
8. Trolleys
9. Cupboards, Shelves, Racks, Tables
10. Sewing Machine
11. Steam cabinets and Tunnels
12. Boilers
Washing Machines
Most washers are made of stainless steel. They are sized by their capacity (that is, the
number of pounds of linen they can handle in a single load). Sizes vary from 10 to 500
kg capacities.
Washers consist of a motor, inside and outside shells, and a casing. The outside shell is
stationary and holds the wash water. The inside shell holds the laundry and is perforated
to allow water for various cycles to flow in and out.
The washer’s motor rotates either the perforated inner shell or an agitator. The rotating
shell or agitator helps the detergent break up soils on fabrics in the wash cycle and
remove detergents and other chemicals during the rinse cycles.
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Most newer washers have automatic detergent and solution dispensing capabilities.
Equipment should have at least five ports (openings through which detergents can be
poured). – two for detergents and one each for bleach, sour, and softener. Chemicals that
are simply dumped onto the linens can severely damage them.
Most washers have extraction capabilities. The motor spins the inside shell rapidly to
remove most excess water after washing is completed. If the washer cannot remove this
water, a separate extractor must be used. Extractors are available in centrifugal,
hydraulic, and pressure types. Microprocessors are computer controlled washing
machines. After the linen are loaded in, the relevant code is punched in. Based on the
code, the computer decides the type of programme, the temperature and the chemicals to
be utilized for that wash.
Hydro Extractor:
As the name suggests, it extracts water out of the washed linen by means of centrifugal
force or by the application of pressure. After extraction, linen are in a damp condition.
Hydro extractors and washers are also available as a single unit.
The damp linen coming out of the hydro extractor are tightly packed. They are put into
tumblers or dryers to loosen them out and also to dry them further. Gas, electricity, or
steam heats air. The air flow must be unrestricted to ensure the dryer’s energy efficiency.
Steam cabinets or tunnels effectively eliminate wrinkles from heavy linens such as
blankets, bedspreads, and curtains. A steam cabinet is simply a box in which articles are
hung and steamed to remove wrinkles. A steam tunnel actually moves articles on
hangers through a tunnel, steaming them and removing the wrinkles as they move
through.
This very large machine consists of several heated and well padded rollers which irons
the articles as it passes through. All flat pieces (eg: bedsheets, table cloth, pillow slips)
are passed through this machine. After ironing, the articles are folded automatically by
an electric device (folding machine) or by hand.
Steam press:
Uses heat and steam to press clothes. The neatly folded clothes (e.g. shirt, trousers etc. )
are sandwiched between two plates, the ‘head’ which gets hot and the ‘buck’ , through
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which the steam is passed. Steam presses have additional attachments like the cuff and
collar press.
Suzies/ Genies:
They are made of inflatable material and are in the shape of a human torso. The
skirt/pant/ coat to be ironed is draped on the suzie. When put on, it is pumped up with
hot air and inflated. The heat and the stretching action, irons the clothes out.
Trolleys/Rolling/Holding Equipment
Rolling and holding equipment is used for linen handling. Carts are used in most
laundries to move linens and to hold them after they have been sorted for washing,
drying, and finishing. Carts must be kept orderly so that staff can move freely through
the OPL. They must also be carefully marked so that carts for clean linens are not mixed
up with those used for soiled items.
Operates like the washing machine; but instead of using water, it uses dry cleaning fluid
like perchlorethylene. Clothes are washed and rinsed in this solution, the solvent is
filtered and re-used automatically in the machine.
Tunnel washers:
Used in very large laundries where tons of linen are washed.These washers are like a
tunnel with different compartments for pre-washing, main washing, rinsing and
extracting. As soon as the first cycle is finished on the first load of laundry, the wash
moves into the second chamber.The laundry attendant can then load the first chamber
with the next batch.
Cupboards/Shelves/Racks/Tables
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A decision on whether to include a laundry ideally should be made in the initial planning
stage of a facility. If this is not done, considerable cost may be necessary to change
plumbing and electrical systems. Very hot water, cold water, steam, gas and large sewer
drains and water lines are essential plumbing considerations. Hot water should be
available between 160 and180 degrees for proper sanitation in the machines. Both 115
and 220 grounded electric outlets should be provided in strategic locations for the laundry
equipment.
Location
The location of the laundry is strategic because of transportation problems and the noisy
and humid nature of the area. The laundry should, if at all possible, be easily accessible
from the linen room so that heavy bundles of laundry can easily be transported from one
location to another. It should be located away from guest areas because of the noise,
vibration and humidity problems unique to a laundry. It should preferably be on the
outside of the building to provide adequate venting. The laundry should be located so
that it can be operated and/or used by both men and women.
To minimize installation cost and disruption, check out utilities and drains available in
this location.
Size:
It is difficult to state an optimum size for laundry because of the many variables that have
to be considered for individual needs. Rule of thumb for hotels is 7 sq ft./room.(not
including soil storage).For soil storage: 1cu.ft. for every 8 lbs.(upto a height of 4 ft.)
Equipment selection
Generally it's wise to install two small washers rather than one big one. This is because:
it will take less time to accumulate a full load for a smaller machine;
you'll have a backup if one machine needs service;
you'll be able to handle small, odd lots more efficiently;
you'll be able to wash two different types of goods(e.g. heavily soiled uniforms and
lightly soiled sheets) concurrently;
small machines impose less of a shock load on hot water and electrical systems.
Exceptions which call for a single large machine rather than two small models:
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when the choice is between one 35-lb, commercial machine or several home appliance
washers (here, choose the commercial machine because of professional washing
quality, durability, and efficiency);
when space won't permit two machines;
when the capital budget won't permit two machines (generally. one large model costs
less than two small models).
Where a choice is available, consider buying one washer-extractor with high speed
extraction and one with low speed extraction. The former can be used for towels as well
as permanent press sheets, and the latter can be dedicated to permanent press sheets
(which need less extraction speed). This will reduce the total price.
An extractor is a machine that forces most of the moisture out of the laundry by applying
centrifugal force. After extraction, the wet laundry weighs about 1 1/2 times the weight
of dry laundry. Combination washer-extractors cost less than two separate machines,
require less space and eliminate one step in the laundry process (i.e., removing the wet
laundry from the washer and putting it into an extractor). A washer-extractor with a 25
lb. capacity will take approximately 25 minutes to complete a cycle.
Regardless of whether a separate washer and extractor are selected, a dryer is needed.
Commercial dryers are referred to as tumblers. In general, the tumbler should have a
capacity of about 25 per cent greater than the extractor. By estimating the laundry
requirements by day, week, and year, the capacities and the number of machines required
can be calculated.
Wet laundry must be moved from the washer-extractor to the dryer; dry laundry must be
moved to storage shelves and to shower areas and equipment issue areas. To facilitate
these transfers, utility baskets, hampers and/or trucks must be provided.
A work table, with casters on the legs, is very convenient for folding towels and other
laundry. It can readily be moved about the room as needed. There should be cupboards
or bins for storage of detergents, soaps, bleaches and other cleaning agents.
Layout
The layout of the laundry should be such that there is an easy flow of traffic. In
positioning machines, pay close attention to entries, exits, columns, drain locations,
exhaust areas, ventilation, and machinery access. Separate the soiled and clean laundry
handling areas as much as possible, to prevent recontamination of clean goods.
Doors need to be large enough to initially get the equipment into the room as well as
being large enough to effectively enter and exit with utility carts and/or laundry baskets
Swinging doors are good for cart movement. They should have windows for safety and
bumpers or guards to protect their appearance. Thresholds should be flush.
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Ceilings should be impervious to moisture and have good sound absorption qualities. An
8 to 10 foot high ceiling is sufficient. Floors are very important in the laundry. They
should be level concrete slabs capable of supporting the heavy cleaning machines. The
floor around the machines should be sloped and there should not be any low spots in the
floor where water can pool. Concrete is the most suitable floor material and can be
covered by one of the synthetic resinous materials available with
a smooth yet non slip surface.
The walls should be constructed of a material that is durable, moisture resistant and
insulating. Windows should be avoided so that wall space can be used for storage
shelves and bins; however if they are required, care should be given as to their placement
in order to eliminate glare. Any windows should be constructed with wire glass and be
located high on the wall.
Allow at least 18 inches between machines (the same applies to a side wall). Dryers can
usually be placed side by side (allow about an inch between them).Provide at least two
feet between the back of the machine and the wall. If space is tight, try locating machines
in front of a large door to a hall or to the outside. The door can be opened for servicing
the machines.
Try to locate dryers next to an outside wall. They must be vented. Soiled storage and
sorting should take place near the washers. Dryers should be a minimal distance from the
washers, but they should not interfere with loading and unloading (or sorting).
The folding table and area should be located so that finished work is moving toward its
final storage area in preparation for distribution.
Labor
First check within the organization for employees with regular slack periods, you may
use them to help in the laundry.
One rule of thumb for a small institutional laundry is that one person would be able to
handle about 80 lbs. an hour.
Other Costs
Costs of supplies such as soap, bleach and softening agents should be estimated, and
consideration should be given as to how bulk quantities of these supplies will be stored.
Decisions have to be made as to who will maintain and supervise the laundry and what
work force will be utilized.
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After all these factors have been considered, comparisons can be made with commercial
laundry charges to check out an OPL's feasibility.
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Activity 1 : Draw the layout of a full fledge laundry of a five star hotel of 200
guest rooms. Mark the placements of equipments(as per scale)
Hotel and other commercial OPLs use many more chemicals to wash linens than people
use in their washers at home.The hotel laundry “fine-tunes’ its chemicals to ensure an
effective wash that leaves linens looking as close to new as possible.The following list
provides a brief description of the major categories of chemicals used in laundry
operations.
Water : is the major cleaning agent in laundering. Water must be soft, clean and devoid
of minerals to give a good wash. Hard water can prevent lather formation and damage
clothes in the long run. White colored clothes turn grey in hard water. Hard water can
also clog pipelines. Hence hard water must be softened.
Detergent:
Water by itself cannot clean fabrics, due to its surface tension. Hence detergents are used.
A good detergent must have the following properties:
Wetting properties
Emulsifying
Suspending
In addition, detergents must be:
Readily soluble in water
Effective in all kinds of water and over a wide range of temperatures.
Harmless on skin and fabrics.
Able to clean effectively with minimum efforts
Rinsed away easily
Biodegradable
Detergents can be in the form of a liquid, powder or cake. Liquid detergent disperses well
in water. However, it does not have all the ingredients of a powdered detergent. Liquid
detergents are normally used for washing delicate fabrics.
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Synthetic Detergents act in hard water and they have several chemical additives to act on
different types of fabrics and varied range of temperatures.
Built soap / Buildersare highly alkaline in nature and are used for highly soiled linen.
Detergents with enzyme have pepsin in them.They help in breaking protein stains.
However the wash temperature must not exceed 50 degrees centigrade as pepsin gets
inactivated.
(1) Alkaline Builders eg: Soda, Borates, Silicates and Complex phosphates
(2) Sodium Silicate – Prevents corrosion
(3) Sodium Sulphate – Bulking agent . Constitute 20%
(4) Sodium Carboxy Methyl Cellulose – Dirt suspension in cotton fabrics
Ethyl Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose – Dirt suspension in synethtics
(5) Sodium Perborate or Sodium Percarbonate – Oxidising bleach. Removes stains 85
– 100 C
(6) Tetra Acetyl Ethylene Diamine (TAED) – Bleaching agent. Lower temperature
(7) Foam/Lather stabilizers – Ethanolamides
(8) Fluoresers
(9) Enzymes
(10)Germicides, Perfumes, Dyestuff
Alkalies : Alkalies or alkaline builders help detergents lather better and keep stains
suspended in the wash water after they have been loosened and lifted from the fabric.
Alkalies also help neutralize acidic stains (most stains are acidic),making the detergent
more effective. E.g. soda, borax.
Bleaches: Bleaches cause strong chemical reactions that, if not carefully controlled, can
damage fabrics. Used properly, bleaches help remove stains, kill bacteria, and whiten
fabrics.
Caution: Avoid
Oxidising bleaches on rust stains as they get fixed.
Reducing bleaches on wool and silk as they get yellowed.
Chlorine bleach on polyester and polyester blends as they ge damaged.
Antichlors are used to neutralize the chlorine left behind by chlorine bleach.
E.g. sodium thiosulphate . Polyester fibers retain chlorine, and for this reason is typically
treated with antichlors when chlorine bleach is used.
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Fabric (optical) brighteners. Brighteners make white fabrics seem whiter by changing the
wavelength of ultra violet rays. These chemicals are often pre-mixed with detergents and
soaps.
Mildewcides. Mildewcides prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus on linens for up to
30 days. Both these types of micro organisms can cause permanent stains that ruin
linens. Moisture makes a good breeding ground for mildew growth. Therefore, soiled
damp linen should be washed promptly and not allowed to sit in carts for long periods.
Clean linens should be dried and/or ironed as they are removed from washers or
extractors.
Sours. Sours are basically mild acids used to neutralize any residual alkalinity in fabrics
after washing and rinsing. Detergents and bleaches contain alkali, and any residual alkali
can damage fibers and cause yellowing and fading. In addition, residual alkalies can
cause skin irritation and leave odors.
Fabric softeners. Softeners make fabrics more supple and easier to finish. Softeners are
added with sours in the final wash cycle. They can reduce flatwork ironing, speed up
extraction, reduce drying time, and reduce static electricity in the fabric. Too much
softener can decrease a fabric’s absorbency.
Starches. Starches give linens a crisp appearance that stands up during the items’ use. If
they are used, starches should be added in the final step in the washing process.
1. Temperature
2. Mechanical Action
3. Chemical Action
4. Time
1. Temperature: the major reason why we wash in hot water. “For every 10 ºC rise in
temperature, the rate at which soil is removed is doubled”.
Advantages Disadvantages
Melts fats Fixed protein soils
Disinfects linen Costs energy
Decomposes wool
Can bleed colour
If not carefully cooled, causes creasing of polyester
2. Mechanical Action: Physically breaks up soil and detaches soil from linen.
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Factors affecting mechanical action:
Loading – amount of linen in machine.
Water levels – amount of water in machine
Foam
Machine type
Type and size of pockets
3. Time:
Generally the longer the wash the better!
Exceptions:
The heavier the degree of soiling; the shorter the first wash should be
If a main wash of more than 16 minutes is required, it is better to do two eight minute
washes
Expensive
dry cleaning solvents are harmfull to health if inhaled
after dry cleaning a certain un pleasant smell is retained
Sorting
Garments are sorted into:
white and light coloured clothes
dark coloured clothes
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white and light coloured woolens
dark coloured woolens
drapery and furniture covers
rain clothes
Application of absorbents
Absorbents are applied to remove grease spots from all kinds of materials .The common
absorbents used are starch, powdered magnesia, French chalk, fuller’s earth , bran etc
Pre spotting
Pre spotters are applied using a spotting gun, which uses compressed air to help spray the
solvent on to the stain or a heavily soiled area. solvents such as amyl acetate, emulsifying
agents and enzymes are used for pre spotting.
Cleaning
Clothes are loaded to the dry cleaning cylinder. very delicate clothes are placed in a net
bag.an appropriate solvent is circulated through the clothes. the contact time of the
clothes with the solvent and the rinsed time may vary. immersion and agitation of the
garments in the solvent takes place, loosening the soil and dissolving it.
Extraction
Excess solvent is removed from the garments by centrifugal action in a revolving
perforated cylinder
Drying
After extraction, the garments are dried, temp is controlled and kept around 70 degree
centigrade.
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PICK UP TAGGED & WASHED (OR)
RECORDED DRYCLEANED
Laundry list
Every guest room is provided with laundry bags and laundry lists .the guest ia expected
to place the soiled clothes in the laundry bag, fill out the laundry form with the necessary
details, and place a call to the house keeping to get the laundry collected.
The valet checks the clothes against the list and take them down to
the linen room .here the clothes are checked for repairs needed and stray items left in the
pockets, they are marked or tagged and details are recorded to avoid misplacement. the
clothes are washed, drycleaned or ironed according to the guest’s requests. before ironing
the clothes are re-sorted according according to the room no.the ironed clothes are packed
and delivered to the guest rooms with the counter foil of the laundry lists.items found in
the pockets are delivered back to the guest along with the laundry.
Valet service
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4.9 Stain Removal
`Stain’ is a spot or mark of discoloration left on fabrics by the contact and absorption of
some foreign substance. Some stains can be removed during the normal washing
process. But certain stain require special treatment with stain removal agents the use of
these agents require care as these can cause weakening of fibres, bleeding and can
damage the fabric. So, we must be able to identify stains as far as possible and should
also know if certain agents can harm certain types of fabrics.
a) Animal: Caused by blood, egg, milk, meat juices. As these contain protein
matter; heat must be avoided. Otherwise it may coagulated get fixed into the
article.
b) Vegetable: caused by tea, coffee, cocoa, fruit, wine. These are acidic and
therefore requires alkaline reagents to remove them.
c) Grease: caused by butter, curry, oil paint, varnish, tar. Usually grease solvents
are used to remove them.
d) Dye: can be acidic and alkaline
e) Mineral: rust, black ink, iron mould, certain medicine stains
f) Scorch : caused by a very hot iron
g) Grass: stains come under vegetable group but a different method is used for
removing the green coloring matter chlorophyll.
(b) Acids: eg: oxalic acid, potassium acid oxalate (salt of lemon). Certain fibres
and dyes are susceptible to damage by acids. However dilute acids can be used on
whites. Acids are used to remove metal stains like iron mould and rust. It is
essential to neutralize the acid by rinsing the articles in a weak alkaline solution.
Otherwise any remaining acid can cut into the fabric and damage it. However animal
fibres (like wool, silk) are susceptible to damage by alkalies)
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(c) Alkalies: eg: soda, borax. Usually removes vegetable stains like tea, coffee,
coco, wine etc. Alkalies can adversely affect dyes and animal fibres.
(d) Bleaches: are used to whiten an article. It should be used carefully as this can
weaken fibres. Bleaches can be (i) oxidising bleaches (ii) reducing bleaches.
(e) Enzymes: eg: powdered pepsin. Used for the removal of protein stains on all fabric.
Heat must be avoided as it can coagulate and fix protein stains.
2 Absorbent Method:
Remove surface deposit
Apply absorbent powder thickly over
Flatten gently
Remove when saturated.
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Sponge with cold water
Pour cold water from a height of 2 - 3 feet.
Washable fabric
Remove deposit
Rinse with cold or warm water
Soak in the recommended cleaning solution
Sponge with cleaning solution.
Rinse in water and Blot dry.
6. Bleaching Method
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Removal Of Common Stains
Alcohol
1. Wipe up immediately and sponge with warm water.
2. Use detergent solution and rinse.
3. If necessary, use chlorine/hydrogen peroxide bleach.
Ball point
1. Use methylated spirit or se glycerine with ammonia solution.
2. If necessary, use chlorine bleach solution.
Beer
1. For dried stains, use hydrogen peroxide solution (whites) or white vinegar
(colored).
Blood
1. Soak immediately in cold water.
2. Wash in warm enzyme detergent solution or soak in hydrogen peroxide
solution.
3. For dried stains use ammonia.
Candle wax
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Place a blotting paper over and under the stain and pass a warm iron over it.
Change the paper and repeat the process until the wax is absorbed.
3. Remove any remnant discoloration with methylated spirit or dry cleaner.
Chewing gum
1. Chill with ice to harden and scrape off.
2. Use dry cleaner.
Chocolate, Cocoa
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Use enzyme detergent solution or borax solution.
3. If necessary, use dry cleaner.
Coffee
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1. Wash off immediately.
2. Use borax solution.
3. For dried stains, use glycerine solution.
4. If necessary use chlorine bleach.
Curry
1. Remove deposit and use glycerine solution.
2. Use enzyme detergent solution or ammonia solution.
3. If necessary, bleach.
Egg
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Soak in cold salt water.
3. Use enzyme detergent solution.
Fish slime
1. Soak in salt water and wash as usual.
Fat/Grease
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Use absorbent powder
3. Or use blotting paper and warm iron.
4. Wash in warm detergent solution or dry cleaner.
Jam/Ketchup
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Wash with detergent.
3. If necessary, use bleach.
Metal polish
1. Use spirit or dry cleaner.
Mildew
1. Moisten with lime juice and salt.
2. Dry in the sun.
3. If necessary use hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach solution.
Mud
1. Remove surface deposit.
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2. Use detergent solution.
3. For dried stains, brush and use drycleaner.
Nail varnish
1. Remove surface deposit. Use non-oily nail polish remover or methylated spirit.
Pencil
1. Use an eraser.
2. If necessary, use a drycleaner.
Perfume
1. Sponge with water immediately
2. Use glycerine solution.
Perspiration
1. Sponge with warm enzyme detergent solution or use ammonia solution.
2. For old stains use white vinegar solution.
3. If necessary use hydrogen peroxide solution/ chlorine bleach solution or dry
cleaner.
Resin
1. Use eucalyptus oil or thinner.
Rust
1. Use lime juice and salt.
2. Or use oxalic acid.(2%)
Sand
1. Brush off excess.
2. Soak in detergent solution.
Scorch
1. Soak in borax/ hydrogen peroxide/ ammonia solution. May be impossible to
remove from wool, silk.
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2. For non washables, rub with glycerine solution. If necessary, sponge with
borax solution.
Shoe polish
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Use dry cleaner or spirit.
Smoke/Soot
1. Vacuum deposit.
2. Soak in detergent solution.
3. Use dry cleaner for non-washables.
Tobacco/Grass
1. Use eucalyptus oil/glycerine/ methylated spirit
2. If necessary, use dry cleaner or chlorine bleach.
Urine
1. Rinse in cold water and launder as normal.
2. For dried stains soak in enzyme detergent solution.
3. If necessary, use hydrogen peroxide and ammonia solution.
Vomit
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Rinse in cold running water.
3. Soak in enzyme detergent solution.
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3.9 Common Laundry Problems
3. Rust Stains Iron/Manganese in water supply Rewash with a commercial stain remover. Do not use chlorine bleach.
pipes or water heater. Use water softener. If rust is in pipes, run the water for sometime to
clear the line.
4. Blue Stains Blue color in detergent, fluorescer or For detergent or fluorescer stains soak items for an hour in a solution
fabric softener softener. of one part white vinegar per four parts of water. For softener stains,
rub with bar soap and wash. To prevent stains, use a liquid detergent
or fluorescer
Soak in a plastic container in a faded solution of 1 cup white vinegar
to one gallon water. To prevent, switch to a liquid detergent.
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removal Wash temperature too low Increase temperature
Overloading washer Wash fewer items per load, sort properly; use the proper amount of
detergent and water temperature.
6. Greasy or oil Too little detergent Treat with stain remover; increase stains the amount of detergent.
Wash temperature too low Wash in higher temperature.
Undiluted fabric softener has come in Rub fabric with bar soap and wash;.
to contact with fabric dilute the fabric softener before adding .
7. Residue of Undissolved detergent (especially Add detergent to the washer before putting the clothes in and then
powder noticeable on dark clothes ). start washer. Remove stain by mixing up of one cup of white vinegar
to one gallon of warm water.
Non-phosphate granular detergent To prevent residue, switch to a liquid detergent.
combines with water minerals and
forms residue
8. Lint Improper sorting (mixing napped Prevent problems by sorting more carefully.
fabrics with others)
Tissue in aprons or uniform pockets. Check pockets before laundering.
Clogged washer lint filter or dryer Clean filters and screens after lint screen each use. Dry items and pat
masking or transparent tape, rewash and use fabric softener in final
rinse.
Over drying causes static electricity Rewash items using fabric softener; remove items from dryers when
which attracts lint. they are slightly damp.
9. Holes, tears, Incorrect use of chlorine bleach Always use bleach dispenser and bleach with 4 parts water; never
snags pour directly on linens.
Unfastened zippers, hooks, buckles Fasten them before washing.
Burrs in washer Inspect and repair as necessary.
Washer overload Avoid overload.
10. Color fading Unstable dye Test fabrics for color fastness before hand. Wash colored items
53
separately
Wash temperature too hot Use cooler water.
Improper use of bleach Use oxygen bleach, if necessary.
Undiluted bleach poured on fabric Dilute bleach.
11. Wrinkling Failure to use correct cycle. Use perm. press cycle; cooler temperature;
Overdrying Remove dried clothes from the drier immediately.
Washer/dryer overload Do not overload.
12. Shrinking Overdrying Reduce drying time; remove items while damp and stretch knits back
into shape; dry flat
Residual shrinking Allow for some shrinking when purchasing items.
Agitation of wool items Lower agitation and reduce extraction speed.
13. Pilling Synthetics pill naturally with wear Prevent unnecessary pill by using fabric softener and spray starch or
fabric finish.
54
FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
Chapter Outline:
Objectives:
At the end of this chapter you must be able to:
Discuss the elements and principles that are to be followed in flower
arrangements.
List, explain and identify the different types of flower arrangements.
List, illustrate and explain the Basic styles and Outlines of Flower arrangement
Recommend where these styles could be used.
Suggest placement of Flower arrangements.
List the basic equipment and tools used and indicate how they could be used.
Enumerate the different ways of conditioning flowers to last longer.
Discuss use of flowers in hotels.
a. Harmony: This can be brought about by using forms, textures, colours etc. that
are similar.
b. Contrast: If all elements used are similar, it could look very monotonous. So,
contrast can be brought about by using different elements. Caution: Too much
of contrast can be disturbing.
55
SBN /648/AO /
3rd/4th Bsc
H&HA
c. Balance: This relates to the "size" of the flowers and their placement. Larger
and darker flowers look heavier and they are kept towards the bottom center
whereas, smaller and lighter flowers radiate away from the central point.
Balance can be symmetrical (formal) when the arrangement looks similar on
either side. An asymmetrically balanced (informal) arrangement can look
interesting.
d. Proportion & Scale: Flowers should be in proportion with the vase and the
arrangement should be in proportion with the location. For eg. Reception
counters should have a tall one sided arrangement. In case of tall vases the
tallest point in the arrangement should not exceed 1 & 1/2 of the vase. In case of
a flat vase, the tallest point should not be more than 1 & 1/2 times the width of
the vase.
e. Emphasis: It can be brought about by contrasting colours (red roses with green
ferns) or by contrasting texture or arrangement. The best flowers are placed at
the focal point to attract attention. Helpers or supporters (like foliage) enhance
the decorative value.
f. Rhythm: Produced by a continuous flow of lines by repetition, radiation and
alternation.
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e. Miniature: Very small arrangements made in very small vases using delicate
flowers and foliage.
f. Floating: Flowers, leaves, plants usually water plants are arranged in vases
which are floated in large containers.
g. Dry arrangement: Preserved flowers, drift wood, leaves are used. They are
allowed to dry and coated with a clear varnish.
1. Line arrangement
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3. Low level: In this case, flowers and vases must be huge and decorative. Even
design of landscape etc. drift wood, large and decorative vases can be used.
1. Florist scissors or shears - They do not crush the stem like normal scissors.
2. Normal scissors, blades.
3. Pin holders - Also called Kenzan. It has a metallic base with a number of pins
which help in anchoring the stalks. While buying pinholders one must ensure
that the base is heavy.
the needles are sharp.
it should not rust in water
it should be proportional to the size of the vase.
4. Sponge - Also called oasis. It is synthetically made. It has to be soaked until it
becomes soft. The flowers are inserted into the sponge.
5. Chicken wire mesh - It is crumpled and used as flower holders.
6. Bucket, mug, sprayer.
7. Vases, flowers and foliage.
8. Accessories like pebbles, rubber bands, glass pieces, marbles to conceal the
pinholders. Rubber bands, sewing thread, needles, pins, tooth picks, supporters.
1. Flowers must be cut in the evening(1/2 hr. after watering) or, early morning.
2. Well formed buds last longer than fully bloomed flowers.
3. Always cut long stalks. If stalks are short extra items like reepers or fillers can
be used.
4. Always cut stalks diagonally rather than a straight slash. This increases the
surface area and the stalk ends do not get choked when pinned onto the pin
holders.
5. Immerse the stalks in a bucket of water immediately after cutting. Leave them
in water for 1 - 2 hrs.
6. It is better to re-cut stalks under water to avoid air bubbles.
7. Leaves should not be soaked in water.
8. Hollow stems can be filled with water, blocked with cotton wool and immersed
in water. Sappy stems must be singed with a candle flame to coagulate the sap
at the end to prevent the sap from oozing out. The stalk ends can be dipped in
boiling water for 2 - 3 minutes. Hard stems can be crushed or slit at the ends to
ease water flow.
9. The flower arrangements should never be placed in sunlight.
10. The water level in the vases must be checked and topped if necessary. If the
water starts smelling it must be changed.
11. A pinch of salt or aspirin in the water helps to keep flowers fresh for a longer
period of time.
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12. A finished arrangement will not show its holder/s at the base. In a hotel with
gardens, there is usually a horticulturist who deals with the garden, plants and
has a florist to arrange flowers too; otherwise with no garden, a florist works for
the house keeping department and takes care of indoor plants as well as
arranging flowers.
Large arrangements of flowers are generally placed in the lobby, Reception desk,
Restaurants (not on tables), buffets, and bars and in suitable niches as available. Suite
and VIP guests also get arrangements. Some hotels provide a bud vase in every room.
The room attendants make the bud vases while the florists do all the other
arrangements.
Medium round arrangements are provided at the GRE’s disk in the lobby, coffee tables
in the lounges; the hostess desk in Restaurants, etc.
Restaurants have generally bud vases with one or two flowers inside.
Table arrangements for banqueting and conferences must be in low containers and not
high as the guests may not see over them.
On special occasions, festivals etc., a large amount of flowers are required for various
type of arrangements. Some hotels make floral carpets in the Lobby, on special
occasions.
To cut down the expenses on flowers, some hotels use floating arrangements with water
lilies or dried arrangements. These can last a long time.
Bouquets are made on request for the guests. These are normally charged.
Activity 4: List and identify atleast 15 types of flowers and foliages used in
flower arrangements.
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60
INDOOR GARDENING
Chapter Outline:
Indoor plants form an integral part of decoration in a hotel. They add charm to the
architectural beauty of the hotel and complement the interior setting.
These are also known as house plants. There are several species and varieties of indoor
plants, which include both foliage and flowering plants. They come under ornamental
foliage plants, ferns, palms, bromeliads, cacti and succulents, herbaceous annuals,
biennials and perennial flowering plants and bulbous flowers.
When incorporating plants into the decorative scheme of a room, the same
considerations of taste apply as in flower arranging. Plants are more permanent
than cut flowers and some grow to be big, so scale is very important. There is less
choice in placement because of varying needs of light and temperature. Hence it’s
important to know shade and sun loving plants and place them accordingly.
Pots arranged in groups are more effective than pots here and there. Since leaves
are a permanent feature, it is important to group together, interestingly
contrasted foliage. Shape may be a more important consideration than colour.
Plants kept at the back of a group should be taller, or if short, can be kept raised.
648/SBN/ 3rd/4th
Sem/BSc
If a variety of foliage and colours are used, keep the background plain.
Plants placed on window ledges can obscure an uninteresting view.
61
Wooden steps placed in corners can display plants in a terraced style.
If a room is too small, one plant can be placed in a corner on its own or a striking
climber can be encouraged to travel up a shelf.
A small attractive plant in an interesting container or a miniature dish garden can
be placed on a coffee table.
Wire or wicker baskets, bird cages or any hanging bowls could be hung from the
ceiling. The plants chosen must be of the trailing type.
Plants placed in ‘empty’ looking corridors can add interest and make the place
look alive.
Plants can also soften the stark look of a bathroom.
Colorful Window-Boxes
A better practice is to place potted plants inside the window box then to plant directly in
it. The advantage in this method is that the plants can be placed or removed according
to the need and also help to overcome the difficult task of changing the soil in the box
when it becomes sick. It is thus always possible to have a colourful display of flowers
and foliage and to alter the plant arrangements frequently to break the monotony of any
particular type of display. The box should have proper depth so that the pots placed
inside are not visible from outside. Besides the plant height, colour and size of foliage,
flower colour and size and the time of flowering, the situation (whether sunny or
shaded) is equally important in choosing the plants.
A desert or woodland scene, rock garden or formal garden scene can be created with the
use of miniature plants right inside the room. Use of pebbles and stones in the desert
scene or small weathered rocks, moss, etc. in a rock garden produces natural effects. In
formal garden designs, small garden paths using small pieces of slate, green lawn raised
from seeds and cut occasionally with small nail scissors and miniature flower beds and
plants can be used effectively. The planters, particularly the large troughs are often
fitted with legs and castors so that they may be placed at suitable corners in the room
and removed occasionally outside to the verandah or balcony to provide sunshine to
plants whenever required.
Large glass-bowls are also used for growing plants. Regular and proper watering and
light are essential in maintaining the plants indoors in a healthy condition. After two or
three years, when the plants outgrow or lose their form, it may become necessary to
undo the arrangement and create the composition again with small younger ones.
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Terrarium
A terrarium is a rectangular glass case with a cover. Aquarium cases can also be
utilized for this purpose. The terrarium has a glass-cover at the top which is removed
occasionally to provide ventilation which is necessary for the growth of plants. Since
the terrarium is closed the plants do not require frequent watering as the moisture from
the transpiration of leaves and soil evaporation condenses on the glass, returns to the
soil and becomes again available to the plants. If there are not drainage holes at the
bottom of the terrarium a layer of coarse sand and small charcoal pieces about 3-6 cm
thick may be spread at the bottom before filling in the soil mixture consisting of equal
parts of soil, leaf-mould and sand.
Bottle Garden
Ferns can be grown successfully in a large bottle. Before planting, the bottle must be
thoroughly cleaned with soap and water and made to sparkle by rubbing it with a clean
cloth. A mixture of coarse and crushed charcoal may be poured into the bottle to form
a 3 cm thick layer at the bottom and later a mixture of equal parts of soil, sand and leaf-
mould through a paper funnel. While introducing the soil mixture, care should be taken
that it does not cling to the sides. Small plants can be introduced with a fork or a desert
spoon tied to a thin bamboo cane with wire or tape. With these small tools it is not
difficult to manipulate the soil around the roots of the plant. After planting, the plants
should be watered lightly with a tube and the bottle corked tightly. While planting
great care should be taken to avoid sprinkling soil over the leaves of the plants. Any
soil resting on the surface of the leaves can be washed off with a fine sprayer. The
bottle-garden, like a terrarium requires very little watering.
Earthenware, glazed clay, China (porcelain) and plastic pots, dishes, shallow bowls and
troughs and wooden barrels or planters in various sizes and shapes like round,
rectangular, square, oval, elliptical, oblong, cone-shaped, or heart shaped are commonly
used for growing indoor plants. The large containers should be preferably on casters
for easy movement, whenever required. A variety of pottery containers in contemporary
designs is also available in many shapes. However, earthenware pots are less expensive
and being porous provide better aeration of the soil than plastic or ceramic pots. Brass
or copper receptacles, which become hot quickly in summer, are not suitable for
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growing plants in tropical climate. . The pots or containers ma be plain or ornamental
in design, depending upon the interior furnishings of the room with which these should
harmonize in colour as well as in texture. The pots and other receptacles must have
drainage holes at the bottom. It is necessary to stand the pots on platters. A group of
pots may be placed on a metal tray. The water drip after watering will collect in these
platters and trays. It would be better to stand the pots on a block of wood or on pebbles
and stones in the platter to avoid direct and constant contact of plants with water which
is harmful for the growth of plants. Besides it also provides adequate humidity to
plants, particularly during summer. The potted plants kept on stands or wall brackets
should be watered carefully by placing a tray or dish below them for collection of
excess water.
A proper environment is essential for the healthy growth of plants and it varies with
different house plants. The success in growing a house plant depends largely on the
ability of the grower to provide a satisfactory environment. The proper environment of
a plant comprises of
light,
temperature,
humidity,
water and
soil, feeding (nutrition)
cleaning
potting and repotting
pinching and pruning.
propagation
All these factors are interrelated. Besides,
diseases and
insect pests
also affect the health and quality of the plants.
Light
Plants require light for their growth but the intensity of light needed by them is not the
same. Plants like Croton,, Rubber plant, Begonia and a few other flowering plants
require higher intensity of light, and Ferns require medium light. In general, green
foliage plants require less sunlight than those with variegated or coloured leaves. The
plants requiring plenty of sunshine grow best on a south window while those needing
medium light may be placed near east and west windows and the shade-loving plants
on the north side of the room.
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If the room does not get sufficient sunlight it should be supplemented by artificial light.
Fluorescent tubes, two of 40 watts each, and one or two incandescent lamps, 40 – 60
watts each may be placed about 30 – 45 cm above the plants and illuminated for 16
hours a day will provide sufficient light for the growth of plants. Spotlights when
placed at appropriate sites but not too near the plants can be functional as well as useful
to accent the plants.
The plants grown in poor light conditions will show symptoms of weak and lanky
growth and pale leaves. The older leaves die and drop off and the new ones become
smaller in size. When the partial-shade-loving or shade-loving plants are grown in
bright sun, their leaves get scorched, becoming brown and drying later. The plants
should be grown in shade or partial-shade for acclimatization before they are brought
indoors.
Temperature
Day temperatures between 18o to 24oC with night temperatures about 10o C lower are
best for the growth of most of the house plants.
Indian Rubber Plant, ferns, Cacti and succulents thrive best at a higher temperature (21 o
– 27o C) than Begonia, Geranium, and Fuchsia which require a cooler temperature (15 o
– 21o C). The injury to house plants is usually due to warmer temperature and not due
to cold, as the plants generally grow satisfactorily up to a temperature of 15 o C. The
heat injury results in weak and spindle-shaped growth of plants and browning of
leaves.
Humidity
A relative humidity of 40 to 60 per cent is best for the growth of plants. Humidity to
some extent is related to temperature. During summer, the humidity can be increased
by occasionally spraying fine mist of water on the foliage, sponging the leaves with
water and placing the pots on wet moss, moist sand, gravel or pebbles kept in platters or
trays. Low humidity may cause tip-burn in leaves of some foliage plants..
Water
One of the main causes for the injury or mortality of house plants is improper watering,
either inadequate or over watering. The requirement of water varies with different
house plants. Cacti and succulents need less frequent watering then Cyprus and Calla
which can grow even under wet conditions. Generally the plants with thin leaves
require more water than others. Besides this, the frequency of watering will also
depend on the stage of plant growth, size of the plant in relation to its pot, type and size
of pot, season, soil or medium used, light, room temperature, humidity and position of
the plant in the house. Small pots which dry out more rapidly require more frequent
65
watering. Plants in flowering need more water than those in young stages of growth or
those which are newly potted. During summer, when the temperature is high and
humidity low, plants require watering more frequently than in winter when the
temperature is low and plant growth in general is slow. A heavy soil with plenty of
clay requires less frequent watering than a sandy loam soil.
Wilting is often a common indication of insufficient soil moisture but it may also be due
to constantly saturated soil. A plant removed from a dark corner to a sunny situation
may also show signs of wilting.
Pots can be watered both from top and bottom. Watering from the bottom can be done
through a wick or by half submerging the pot in a shallow bowl or basin of water or by
placing the pot in a saucer full of water. In these methods, the water rises up through
the bottom hole and as soon as it reaches the top soil, remove the pot from water, drain
off the excess water and place the pot again at the site where it was before. Watering
from bottom is better than that from top, as it avoids over-watering and it is preferable
for cacti and succulents, African violets and Gloxinia. It is always a good practice to
saturate thoroughly the soil while watering and then again water it when it is on the
verge of drying but not completely dry. Light watering daily may lead to accumulation
of salts at the top or side and cause marginal tip-burning of the leaves.
Soil
A soil mixture containing equal parts of soil, organic matter (leaf-mould, compost or
cowdung manure) and coarse sand is ideal for foliage plants, small quantities of wood
ashes, bonemeal or superphosphate and crushed charcoal are also added to the soil
mixture. About one tablespoonful of bonemeal or a teaspoonful of superphosphate will
be sufficient for a 15 cm pot of soil. The soil mixture should neither be too dry nor too
wet at the time of potting.
Feeding
Generally the nutrients present in the medium containing soil and organic matter are
adequate for the growth of house plants. The plants do not require extra feeding unless
they become pot-bound. After repotting the pot-bound plant in a bigger pot or
container, a nutrient solution prepared by dissolving 3 gm of NPK complex or Rosemix
may be applied to the plant. Feeding can be given to the plants once a fortnight.
Fertilizers or manures should not be applied during winter when the plant is resting or
dormant or growing slowly and also not on a dry soil. Soot water and liquid cow dung
manure are also beneficial to foliage plants. Sometimes when pot-bound plant is not
repotted, the top few centimeters of soil from the pot can be removed and replaced with
a mixture of equal parts of soil and leaf-mould or finely crushed cow dung manure to
which a small amount (one tablespoonful) of bone-meal is added.
Cleaning
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The foliage of house plants must be cleaned regularly by spraying with water to remove
dirt, dust and grease. A small amount of milk or a few drops of vinegar may be added
to the washing water to improve the appearance of leaves. Application of one
teaspoonful of carbonate of ammonia dissolved in one litre of water to foliage plants
brightens their leaves. There are certain chemical formulations, like `leaf shine’ and
other aerosols available, which are sprayed on leaves to give them a glossy appearance.
Syringing the foliage with a fine spray of water is also useful, particularly during
summer. The hairy and silvery-grey leaves should be gently cleaned with a soft brush.
The hairy leaves of African violet and Rex begonia may be gently brushed with a soft-
bristled paint brush.
Potting
A pot appropriate to the size of the plant may be selected for potting. Potting in very
large pots is harmful to plants as it tends to deplete the soil of its nutrients by leaching
before new roots develop and occupy the soil. Before potting, the pot should be
thoroughly cleaned and crocks put over the drainage hole. The plant should be set in
the centre of the pot and the soil filled gently around the roots. When the pot is full the
soil may be firmed by pressing with fingers, leaving about 1 – 2 cm at the top, below
the rim to allow for water. The potted plant should then be watered thoroughly and
placed in partial-shade until it establishes itself.
Repotting
When a plant becomes pot bound with its roots matted around the outside of its earth-
ball, it needs repotting. A few plants, such as, cacti, succulents and Aspidistra which
are slow-growing, do not require frequent repotting. However, the fast-growing
Geranium and Begonia require shifting to a larger pot at least once a year. The plants
are generally repotted during the rainy season when it is easier for them to become
established and form new roots and shoots. After repotting the plant should be
thoroughly watered and kept out of direct sun until it is established
Propagation
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House plants are propagated by seed, stem cutting, leaf cutting, division, runner and air-
layering.
Diseases
The common diseases in house plants are stem-rot and root-rot which are found in cacti
and succulents, usually caused by soil – borne fungi, leaf spot caused by fungi, bacteria
or viruses and powdery mildew caused by fungi. In the case of stem-rot the affected
parts may be removed and sulphur dusted on them. For the control of root-rot soil
sterilization is necessary and the affected plant should be repotted in sterilized soil.
Treat the soil with formalin and cover it with a polythene sheet so that the fumes do not
go outside. After about a fortnight remove the polythene sheet and stir the soil
thoroughly to remove the left-over fumes, if any. This sterilized soil can then be used
in pots. The leaves showing symptoms of leaf spot (yellow and brown) should be
removed and burnt. Sometimes spraying with Bordeaux Mixture helps to control the
leaf spot disease. The powdery mildew which causes grayish-white powdery covering
on stems and leaves, can be controlled by dusting with sulphur.
Insect Pests
The house plants are sometimes attacked by insect pests. Most of them can be easily
picked and destroyed. These may be effectively controlled by spraying or dusting
pesticides.
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PEST CONTROL
A pest is simply a living thing whose interests conflict with the interest of man. Pest
cause diseases, damage property and contaminate food.
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