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Monthly Magazine

June 2017
June 2017

Cover Story

Marketplace Revival
www. korea.net

With a dash of innovation, Korea’s traditional markets make a comeback


Co nte nt s

04 Cover Story 24 Korea & I 38 This is Pyeongchang


Market Revival A Green Haven in the Heart of Sleeping Off the Beaten Track
Korea’s vibrant traditional markets make a the City Gangwon-do, the host of PyeongChang 2018,
comeback Changdeokgung Palace offers a natural refuge from offers some unconventional places to stay
the urban grind

40 Current Korea
26 Arts & Entertainment 1 Building a New Korea
Korean Octogenarian Artists As President Moon Jae-in assumes office, the new
administration pledges to correct the mistakes of
Lead a Global Art Movement the past and to bring the nation together
Korean dansaekhwa artists attract New York and
London curators and step into the global spotlight

44 Flavor
28 Arts & Entertainment 2 Juksun Tteokgalbi
Savory favorite began as way to stroke royal egos
‘Okja’ Looks to Break New
14 Travel Ground
Sensual Healing Director Bong Joon-ho and Netflix team up to
Boseong, Korea’s green tea capital, soothes through challenge industry norms with latest film
all five senses

30 Korean Culture in Brief


20 People
Gangneung hosts Danoje Festival, exhibit pays
A National Craftsman tribute to Korean War fallen, actor Kim Woo-bin
named honorary ambassador for PyeongChang
Molten metal artist Park Sang-gyu keeps the 2018, Gangwon-do’s arts and heritage on display,
artisanal spirit alive film museum opens in Busan, two Korean films
compete at Cannes 46 Learning Korean
BTS Misses You
One of Korea’s top pop bands says, ‘Bogosipda’

32 Literature
No Mere Child’s Tale
Hwang Sun-mi’s ‘The Hen Who Dreamed She
Could Fly’ encourages children to reflect on who
they are

36 Policy Review
Not Just a Hip Way to Eat
Food trucks not only diversify the dining scene,
but boost youth entrepreneurship

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© Robert Koehler
Cover Story » Written by Linda Jeon

Marketplace Revival
With a dash of innovation, Korea’s traditional markets make a comeback

Traditional markets have much more to offer than just have been getting together to bring more fun and
the products they sell. Full of depth and color, they excitement to the traditional market experience.
have, over the years, transformed into a venue for For example, in April, a group of musical actors
up-and-coming artists. Local markets are one of the put on performances at Daegu’s Sinpyeong-ri market
best places for both locals and tourists to experience to revitalize the marketplace’s arts scene, which had
how things are done the traditional way. Several have been flagging over the years. Musical actors Jang Eun-
undergone successful makeovers, thanks to vendors joo and Son Hyun-jin, as well as students from Daegu
and artists passionate about reviving the traditional Arts University, were among those who took part in
market scene. What has helped revive markets even this multi-faceted event that featured opera, music
more, however, are refurbishment projects that have and dance performances.
transformed them into fascinating places where the
old meets the new.
From abandoned lot to must-visit
destination
Not just a thing of the past If you’re ever stumped on where to go on your day
In the old days, markets served as a hub for both the off, traditional markets might be the perfect spot for
young and the old. They were some of the best places you. In fact, some markets have turned into must-visit
for people to get together to share information, and travel destinations, all thanks to local artists, vendors
they are still a great place for people to experience and, of course, word of mouth.
the sort of warmth and generosity that’s unique to Nambu Market in Jeonju is a great example of
traditional communities. one that has successfully re-established itself as a hip
Many of the booths and shops lining the markets hangout spot that attracts both locals and tourists.
have been there for decades, and they’re owned and Located just north of Jeonju’s famous Hanok Village,
operated by people with a story to tell. You’re not the market really comes alive at night. You’ll find
just going there to shop. You’re buying produce these not only some of the best products at the market but
vendors handpicked themselves and one-of-a-kind also friendly and passionate people. It opens every
crafts they made with love. You’re haggling with them weekend from 7 p.m. until midnight. From November
and interacting with them. It’s these people that make until February, the hours are from 6 p.m. until 11 p.m.
the market experience unforgettable. The night market alone gets anywhere from 8,000
In the midst of our busy schedule, however, to 9,000 people every weekend, and the place is lined
visiting a local market might not be the first thing with unique shops and booths that sell everything
that comes to mind. Just when it seemed like people from special Jeonju delicacies to scrumptious dishes
were starting to lose interest, groups of artists and from all over the world. You can enjoy roasted
young business-minded individuals in various cities octopus skewers, Vietnamese noodles and Laotian

4 KOREA June _ 5
dumplings as you walk around the market, or sit of the things you must try at the market is its special
down at one of the restaurants and enjoy a bowl of barbecue with Hanwoo beef, pen shell clams and In the face of competition from supermarkets and convenience stores, some traditional markets are turning to design and
the famous Jeonju-style bean sprout rice soup. shiitake mushrooms. youthful innovation in order to survive. Time-honored markets such as Gwangju’s 1913 Songjeong Station Market have
On the second floor of the complex is the famous Another interesting thing about this place is that, worked to attract young entrepreneurs in order to bring a fresh, hip spirit to historical spaces. This, in turn, has drawn young
“Youth Mall,” where young shop owners have created as of 2015, the market became the first traditional customers, and their social media savvy, to the markets, breathing life into places once feared to be dying.
somewhat of a haven for people looking to relax and market to implement a refund policy. Customers 대형 마트나 편의점과의 경쟁에 위기를 맞은 전통시장은 생존을 위해 새로운 시도를 하기 시작했다. 광주 1913송정역시장의 경우 오랜 역사가
enjoy shopping. The mall is what started to draw unhappy with the quality of the products they 깃든 공간에 젊은 상인들과 예술인들을 끌어들여 신선하고 활기찬 분위기를 수혈했다. 덕분에 SNS에 능숙한 젊은 세대가 시장으로 몰려왔고
people to the market in the first place, long before the purchase can ask for their money back or get the item 한때 고사 위기를 맞았던 시장은 새 생명을 얻었다.
night market became popular. exchanged. That same year, the Ministry of Culture,
Before the mall was set up, the marketplace Sports and Tourism awarded the Jeongnamjin Market
appeared nearly abandoned. Most of the space was a Korea Tourism Award.

© 15 Studio
used as storage since a fire in 1999. Before long,
however, young residents found a way to repurpose
the neglected space. It has since become a hot Farm-to-table
spot. The mall is filled with workshops, restaurants, There’s a famous market in Yeongsan-myeon,
cafés and tea houses. It has literally gone from an Jangheung, which is led by urban farmers. The market
abandoned lot to a place of hope for so many young is called the Jangheung Masiljang, which roughly
people, a place where they can dream to be happy. translates to “a place to hang out.” First opened in
April 2013, it’s only open once or twice a month.
Jangheung Masiljang offers an experience that’s
The weekend market experience quite different from the traditional local market to
Jeongnamjin Jangheung Saturday Market, located in which we are accustomed. The main goal was to come
the southwestern province of Jeollanam-do, is famous up with a new market that combines the ambiance of
for its high-quality produce, locally grown beef and traditional urban markets with the rustic qualities of
other specialty products. Like most other places, a countryside market. Farmers here sell a wide array
vendors are warm and kind, and there’s a stage in the of herbs, produce, meats and handmade crafts. There’s
market that brings people together. About 700,000 even a booth where you can buy drip coffee made
visitors come to the market every year. Sales have from beans that were ground with a millstone.
increased tenfold since it first opened in 2005. Visitors can also stop by the second-hand store
Surprisingly, it wasn’t always that busy. The market that’s on site and check out workshops where
started attracting more people after it switched they can learn how to use various tools to make
from operating as a five-day market to a Saturday simple everyday objects. The people who started
market. It has now become one of the best places to this market are former city dwellers who moved to
purchase high-quality beef at affordable prices. One the countryside to enjoy a slower, more peaceful
© 15 Studio
© Gwangju Center for Creative, Economy & Innovation

6 KOREA June _ 7
© Ha Ji-kwon
In Korea, markets weren’t just places where things were bought and sold. Markets were cultural spaces in addition to being
commercial spaces. Singing, dancing, storytelling and circus acts not only attracted more paying customers, but also helped
bring communities together. Some markets keep this tradition alive even today by transforming themselves into multifaceted
spaces where the arts, both visual and performing, thrive.
한국에서 시장은 물건을 사고파는 행위와 더불어 문화가 있는 공간이었다. 노래와 춤, 이야기와 공연이 소비자를 모으고, 지역공동체를 하나로
묶는 역할을 했다. 오늘날에도 몇몇 시장들은 이러한 전통을 이어받아 장터를 예술이 살아 숨 쉬는 다채로운 공간으로 만들어간다.

8 KOREA June _ 9
life. Their motto is “sharing, not possessing.” These More than just a tourist destination
farmers have influenced others to open up similar A lot of markets have become popular tourist Nambu Market’s Youth Mall helped transform the market into one of Jeonju’s hippest hangouts. Once a neglected storage
markets across the country, including ones in Gangjin, destinations, as this is the only way for the local place, the repurposed space is now home to several dozen ateliers, cafés, restaurants and shops operated by young, creative
Haenam and Boseong. vendors to sustain themselves. Over the years, merchants. Its youthful vibe and picturesque facades have made it a social media hotspot.
they’ve implemented changes to make markets more 청년몰은 남부시장을 전주에서 가장 감각적인 장소로 재탄생 시켰다. 버려졌던 창고 부지는 젊고 창의적인 상인들이 운영하는 아틀리에, 카페,
consumer-friendly by doing things like adding trendy 식당, 상점 등으로 변모했다. 활기찬 분위기와 톡톡 튀는 외관 덕택에 이곳은 소셜미디어에서 떠오르는 명소가 되었다.
1913 Songjeong Station Market cafés. The Seoul city government announced that,
Located just across the street from Gwangju starting this May, markets will be installing mobile
Songjeong Station, Songjeong Station Everyday payment systems to allow visitors to pay with their
Market was one of the southwestern city’s oldest credit card or smartphone.
markets, founded in 1913. Like many other Local governments are offering more funding to

© Ha Ji-kwon
traditional markets around the country, however, allow traditional markets to make a comeback. Now,
the market suffered in recent decades, with the emphasis is on making traditional markets a fun
stiff competition from large supermarkets and place to visit on a regular basis. Many of the new
convenience stores. government- and community-level initiatives aim to
In 2015, however, the Gwangju Center for give the younger generation a chance to incorporate
Creative Economy and Innovation and Hyundai local markets into their everyday lives. A growing
Card undertook a project to rejuvenate the historical number of young Koreans are turning to these
market through design. While preserving the old markets as a place to start new businesses, too.
market buildings themselves, the designers renovated Many young artists and entrepreneurs are
and modernized the facilities. Signs and photos were using their talent to make the market experience
hung at the market’s more historical shops to inform memorable and exciting. They are the reason so many
the passerby of the space’s proud heritage. At the of these traditional markets are able to change with
market’s entrance, a grand clock and a sign reading the times. They offer everything from food and art to
“1913”proclaim the market’s 100 years of history. invigorating entertainment.
While the market’s history may be old, many More importantly, markets are about interacting
of its merchants are not. The Gwangju Center for with others. You’re not merely buying things, but also
Creative Economy and Innovation and Hyundai Card talking to the vendors and other shoppers. You’re
worked hard to attract young, creative entrepreneurs. encouraged to take greater interest in the things you
Opening hip restaurants, cafés and shops offering buy and the people who make them.
bold, trendy foods and products, these young Many of the new initiatives designed to revive this
merchants have helped turn 1913 Songjeong Station heritage strive to cultivate the arts and offer people a
Market, as the space was renamed, into a social media place where they can truly enjoy themselves. So why
sensation. not head over to your local market this week?
© Robert Koehler
© Robert Koehler

10 KOREA June _ 11
Korea’s Noteworthy Regional Markets

© Shin Youngcheol

© Marche@
© Jeongseon County
© Jeongseon County

© Marche@
Jeju’s Bellongjang © Jung-Gu, Daegu Metropolitan City

© Yonhap News
and Sehwa Folk
Five-Day Market
The southern island-province of Jeju
has many local markets. Two of the
more interesting ones are Bellongjang Jeongseon Arirang
and Sehwa Folk Five-Day Market, both
of which take place at Sehwa Beach, a
Five-Day Market
Located in the mountains of Gangwon-
strip of coastline on the eastern end of
do, Jeongseon’s Arirang Five-Day
the island. Migrants from the mainland,
some of whom run local guest houses Daegu Seomun Bupyeong Can Market was, until the 1980s, one of the

Market
busiest five-day markets in the country
and cafés, started the Bellongjang
market in 2013. Sellers gather every
Market and the largest in its province. Korea’s
Saturday on what is ordinarily a quiet
Formerly the “Daegu Big Market,”
Daegu’s Seomun Market was, true to
Busan’s famous Can Market, or
Kkangtong Market, began around the
industrialization and modernization,
attended by a rapid decline in the rural
Seoul Marche@ to get a rural market experience. Before
the markets open, participants gather
breakwater in the port of Sehwa to sell
its name, one of the country’s three time of the Korean War, when merchants population, nearly killed the market. In The Marche@ is Seoul’s best known to evaluate the goods to go on sale.
their handmade or homemade goods,
biggest markets of late Joseon times. began trading canned goods that had 1999, however, it got a new lease on life farmer’s market. Held every second In addition to the buying and selling,
including jam, cookies, jewelry, bags and
From the 1960s to the 1980s, the heyday been misplaced or liberated from U.S. when a special train service to bring Sunday at Marronnier Park in the the market also hosts workshops and
woodcraft. A night market is held once
of Daegu’s textile industry, the market military bases. Being the largest market tourists to the market began. Thanks to Daehak-ro district, the market aims other events. The market has proven so
a month between June and September,
was the center of the Korean fashion in Korea’s largest port, the arcade has tourism, the market now thrives once to bring together farmers, artisans, popular that sister markets have opened
too. In addition to providing a space
industry. Nowadays, the market is one long had a cosmopolitan aspect to it. again. The merchants specialize in locally cooks and consumers in an urban in Seoul’s Yangjae, Myeong-dong and
to buy and sell handmade goods, the
of Daegu’s hottest travel destinations, From U.S. canned goods, the market grown produce, including peppers, bell space. The name of the space is the Seongsu-dong districts, too.
market also promotes communication
especially at night. Powered by social graduated to other international flower root, garlic, mountain herbs of all French word for “marketplace.” You’ll
between local Jeju islanders and more
media, the market has become a foodie products. In the 1980s, for instance, kinds and, of course, potatoes. While not find lots of organic produce for sale
recent migrants. The Sehwa Folk Five-
destination. Its street food scene is it functioned as a clearing house for Korea’s most cutting-edge market, what at prices much more reasonable than
Day Market, meanwhile, is the largest
especially vibrant. You’ll find an endless imported electronics. Nowadays, you’ll it lacks in flash it makes up for in old- you’d pay at supermarkets. There’s a
traditional market in eastern Jeju. Held
selection of street eats, from traditional find lots of foreign-born merchants in school charm. In fact, it may be the most garden kitchen, too, where you can
on the fifth, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th and
favorites like flat dumplings, or napjak the market, too. The market’s food scene “traditional” traditional market in the enjoy mouthwatering dishes prepared
30th of every month, the market isn’t
mandu, to more experimental dishes like reflects this. You’ll find international country. In addition to the buying and before your very eyes. It’s a small-town
especially big, but it is lively and offers
fried rice cake in a carbonara sauce. eats such as Vietnamese spring rolls, selling, there’s usually singing, dancing market in the big city, proof that you
fresh seafood and citrus fruit.
Indonesian noodles and Turkish kebabs. and other performances going on, too. don't have to go far into the countryside

12 KOREA June _ 13
Travel » Written and photographed by
Robert Koehler

Sensual Healing
Boseong, Korea’s green tea capital, soothes the soul through all five senses

The picturesque green tea fields of Daehan Dawon present a mystical landscape.

14 KOREA June _ 15
Boseong is a five-sense place.
There’s the scent of the green tea, of course. Even the
Korean name of the springtime Boseong Green Tea Festival,
if properly translated, would be the “Scent of Green Tea
Festival.” There’s taste — not just that of the tea and the ice
cream, chocolate and other delicacies made from it, but also
the rich flavors of the county’s grilled pork and savory meat
patties, or the zest of its freshwater clams. There’s touch —
the waxy smoothness of the tea leaf, the kiss of the moist
breeze off the sea, the refreshing bite of the mountain stream’s
icy water. There’s sight — the endlessly rolling hills of green,
their slopes an undulating quilt of meticulously arranged
rows of tea bushes. Fields of barley dancing in the wind.
It’s the sounds of Boseong that leaves the strongest
impression, however. On a wet, misty morning, the magpies
sing and leaves rustle in the breeze as a light rain falls on
the terraced fields of tea. Deep in the mountains, a gust
shakes the bamboo forest; the cascade of a waterfall roars.
In the city, we condition ourselves to tune out the sounds
of the world. In Boseong, however, the music of nature is as
intoxicating as it is intense.

Fields of green
There are dozens of green tea plantations, large and small,
in Boseong. While the tea harvest lasts from April to
September, the earliest leaves are the most prized. The
pickers, mostly local women, head into the hills in the early
morning, when the temperatures are cooler.
The most visited tea plantation, by far, is Daehan
Dawon. Arguably one of the most photographic — and
photographed — places in the country, Daehan Dawon
is 991,740 square meters of beautifully terraced hillside,
covered by perfect rows of green tea bushes. Over 1 million
people a year visit the plantation, which annually produces
120 tons of green tea. Pleasant walking paths take you up
the hills to strategically placed lookouts with inspiring (Top) Rolling hills of green define Daehan Dawon.
views of the landscape. Early morning is the best time to (Bottom) Visitors walk the tree-lined path of Daehan Dawon’s second plantation.

visit, when there are fewer people and, with luck, fog and
mist hang in the hills.
The path to the plantation, lined by meticulously
planted fir trees, is very picturesque, too.
Boseong’s green tea scene extends beyond the beverage.
Green tea ice cream, served at Daehan Dawon and
elsewhere, is a hit with visitors, and deservingly so.
Green tea pork, the meat of pigs fed with a feed made
with roughly cut green tea, is a local favorite for its
tenderness and unique, tea-infused aroma. Another must
is minced meat patties, or tteokgalbi, made with meat from
Green tea, mountains and mist combine at Daehan Dawon. cows or pigs fed with green tea.

16 KOREA June _ 17
Where to eat
Boseong’s most popular restaurant is Boseong Nokcha Tteokgalbi (T. 061-853-0300). You
Boseong sound
might have to wait in line, but the meat patties are worth it. In Beolgyo, try the kkomak Formerly a small fishing village, Yulpo has ridden the
jeongsik — clams with a table full of side dishes — at Gugil Sikdang (T. 061-858-0588), green tea wave to become a popular tourist destination
a charming place that’s been around for six decades.
in its own right. Picnicking families gather on its sandy
Where to stay beaches, which are lined by forests of gnarled pines. The
Boseong has a couple of small hotels and inns, but the selection is not extensive. The waterfront is now home to seafood restaurants and a
World of Spreading Green Leaves’ bed-and-breakfast (T. 061-852-7988) is worth a stay
for the view alone. For something a bit more historic, try the Boseong Yeogwan (T. 061-
couple of very charming cafés. The real draw, though, is
858-7528) in Beolgyo. the green tea-seawater spa. Where else can you relax in
a hot tub filled with seawater and green tea? There is no
Getting there
Buses to Boseong depart from Seoul’s Central City Bus Terminal (travel time: 4 hours, better place to recover after a day of hiking the hills.
30 minutes). You could also take the KTX from Seoul’s Yongsan Station to Suncheon (2 The countryside around Yulpo is also something of
hours, 20 minutes), and take an hour’s bus ride from there.
a pilgrimage site for fans of Korean traditional music.
(Top) Boseong’s famous meat patties are infused with green tea. Jeong Eung-min (1896–1964), a master of Korean
(Bottom) You can learn about Beolgyo’s dramatic past at the Boseong Yeogwan. lyrical storytelling, or pansori, lived and taught in the
area. Highly influential, Jeong originated a style that is
now called “the Boseong sound.” His old home is now a
museum. Deep in a mountain valley several kilometers
from Yulpo is the Deokeumjeong, a pavilion overlooking
a beautiful waterfall. Pansori singers come here to train,
strengthening their voices against the roar of the water.

Tragic history and great literature meet


Beolgyo is an important market town on the road
between Boseong proper and the neighboring city of
Suncheon. During the Japanese colonial era, the imperial
authorities developed the town as a transportation hub,
allowing them to more efficiently exploit the agricultural
resources of eastern Jeollanam-do. Colonial policies
fueled social divisions, however. In the ideologically
charged atmosphere following Korea’s liberation from
colonial rule, those divisions deteriorated into an ugly
cycle of violence that would continue until the Korean
War. This tragic history forms the backdrop of novelist Jo
Jung-rae’s magnum opus, “The Taebaeksan Mountains.”
Beolgyo is home to many old buildings from the
colonial era, some of which figure prominently in Jo’s
novel. The historical Boseong Yeogwan, a wooden
Japanese-style inn, is the most impressive of these.
Lovingly restored and converted into a café, museum and
guest house, the old inn is a good place to relax and learn
a bit about local history over a cup of coffee. There’s a
large museum dedicated to novelist Jo and his work, too.
Beolgyo is famous for its small saltwater clams, or
kkomak. You can find restaurants serving this specialty
all over.

Gnarled pines and sand create a relaxing space at Yulpo Beach.

18 KOREA June _ 19
People » Written by Hahna Yoon
Photographed by 15 Studio

A National Craftsman
Molten metal artist Park Sang-gyu keeps the artisanal spirit alive

With a tan darker than most, Park Sang-gyu squints under artists and designers who came by the factory. They would
the florescent light of his office. Dressed in dark blue take me out to eat and buy me popsicles, and I suppose that
coveralls outlined by a brick-red stripe on each side and was a large part of the fun,” Park says.
splashes of white paint on his knees, he recognizes that The experience led him to go a technical high school
his name probably doesn’t ring any bells, despite the fact where he would learn all the skills that he needed to pursue
that you’ve probably come across his work a dozen times. a career in this field.
A molten metal artist, Park is responsible for hundreds “I found that it was so much more fun to work in real
of iconic sculptures here in Korea. That King Sejong life than just to attend classes. In school, we could only work
statue you’ve taken a picture of in Gwanghwamun Plaza? with small amounts of metal at a time, but in real life, we
The flower-like emblem of the National Assembly of the would be melting 100 to 200 tons of a metal a day,” he says,
Republic of Korea you know by sight but not by name? as if filled with a sense of nostalgia.
Those works and more are a result of Park Sang-gyu’s “Back then, we were working with black graphite. You
meticulous attention to detail brought to life. know the stuff from which pencils are made? People would
come out of work all coated in black with only the whites
of their eyes twinkling. It was so fun that I never thought
The joys of crafting about whether or not it was dangerous.”
“I didn’t really like to study,” confesses Park with a laugh.
In junior high school, he got the opportunity to visit the
factory of an older cousin who created artistic sculptures, Keeping a promise
and the experience piqued his interest. Even as Park started to work for one company after another,
“Whenever I had a break from school, I would visit my his cousin continued to serve as a role model. “He treated
cousin and I would run all these errands for professors and me better than a brother. He would ask me about books I

Metal casting requires


specialized tools.

20 KOREA June _ 21
needed and try to buy them for me. He would give me as Park can list the places he’s worked, the years that he government begins to focus more on the arts, there should
much as a KRW 1 million for any expenses I needed, which slept for only four hours a night and all the plots of land also be greater support for artisans like him.
was a lot of money back then. ‘Make anything you want,’ he that he attempted to buy before finally settling down in Park has a lot of faith in the artisanal skills of people
would tell me.” Icheon, where he is today. “My motto was to sleep as little as like him, and wishes that there would be a future for the
Park and his cousin truly believed in molten metal and possible because I wanted to learn as much as possible and younger generation as well. “Koreans are very skilled in
casting as an art form. “We bought a lot of land and made do as much as possible,” Park explains. this line of work, but they don’t want to do it anymore.
all these plans, but he died very suddenly in a car accident,” “I bought this plot of land in 2005 and went to the They would rather work as baristas in cafés or go out and
Park says. “To this day, I can’t really understand what he government office to get my factory registered. When I do deliveries,” he says. When asked about a specific Korean
saw in me. I still wonder if I can live up to his expectations. went there, I discovered that none of the metalworking style, it’s clear that Park has often thought about this issue.
After he died, I vowed to be the best person in this field, in companies I had worked with had ever registered “Koreans are so skilled at creating delicate fine lines.
this country.” themselves! In that regard, too, I suppose some could say I Western sculptors are good at grander lines that cut deep.
Now that Park has started his own company, he believes am the first of my kind.” When asked why so few companies We Koreans don’t appreciate our own skills enough. We go
that he has realized most of the dreams that he and his ever bothered to get their companies registered, he explains to Western countries and marvel at what they’ve done, but
cousin had together. However, getting there and opening up that one is required to have 10,000 square meters worth of we don’t look at the sculptures here and think about how
his factory was definitely a journey of its own. space in order to melt metal and work with these kinds of difficult it is to create smaller details.”
chemicals. He adds that for most people in his line of work,
a plot of that size is prohibitively expensive.
Dreaming of a national treasure
After 38 years in the industry and creating some of the

© Im
The artisan’s touch most famous sculptures in the country, Park spends the

age
The way that Park collaborates on each project can differ little leisure time he has raising chickens and dreaming of

Toda
greatly. He may be shown the blueprints of a sculpture or be a better future. He answers without hesitation when asked

y

given a miniature of how the designer would like it to look what he would do with all the money and time in the world.
Erected on Hangeul Day,
2009, Gwanghwamun in 3-D. From there, Park begins to give his input on what In addition to wanting an exhibition and seminar space
Plaza’s statue of King kind of materials they should use and the possible obstacles for artisans, he says there is one dream he would love to do
Sejong the Great ●
that may arise in delivery, placement and more. In 2010, Park restored before he turns 60 and his “eyes go bad.” He says, “I dream
required 22 tons of
bronze. “Previously, I didn’t feel like I could comment on the Gwanghwamun’s iconic of a 20-meter pagoda engraved with traditional Korean
statue of Yi Sun-sin,
designer’s plans. I’ve even worked on projects I would which was erected in
stories, made from all the best materials.”
consider trash, looking back on them now,” he says, going 1968. He wonders out loud. “If I could make something like
on to explain the lack of willingness to use quality materials. that, couldn’t it become a national treasure?”
“If someone is trying to make a work that requires KRW
100 to make, but refuses to spend any more than KRW 40,
then you can only produce trash.” He stresses the artisan’s Standing up for support
importance on a work, adding, “A sculpture can’t be judged Initially, it seems difficult to find any grievance Park has ●

The emblem of the


based on the design alone. A work can change so much for his work. He smiles through the long hours and lack of National Assembly
depending on who has touched it last.” vacation days and even takes the danger of the job in stride. emphasizes trust and

Perhaps the work that best shows Park’s attention to He becomes serious, however, explaining the history of dignity.

detail is also his most famous — the statue of King Sejong sculpture and the arts here in Korea, as well as the lack of

© Space Art
designed by Kim Yeong-won, erected in 2009. “I’ve done appreciation for artisans here.
maybe 90 percent works commissioned by the government. “Everyone thinks that a sculpture is the result of an
Which work am I most proud of? I guess I would have to artist or professor’s design and plans. No one considers that
say it’s the statue of King Sejong,” says Park rather humbly. there is someone behind the actual creation of the work,”
“King Sejong took me about six months to complete. The Park laments. “The more that the designer is recognized
materials used to create it were the best in the country. for a specific work, the more that the name of the artisan
You can look at that one and think, 'Wow, this is really a disappears. At least that’s what has been happening.”
© Space Art

sculpture.' It can last a thousand years because of the metal Much of the work being circulated nowadays is
that was used.” He wishes more works could be created out outsourced to China, where sculptures can be made
of such durable material. at a fragment of the cost. Park is adamant that as the

22 KOREA June _ 23
Korea & I » Written by Ben Jackson
Illustrated by Kim Min Ho

A Green Haven in the Heart of the City


house the Gyujanggak royal library.
Further north is Yeongyeongdang
Hall, a complex built in 1827 for the
conducting of a ritual to bestow King
Changdeokgung Palace offers a natural refuge from the urban grind Sunjo’s posthumous name. Despite its location
in a royal palace complex, Yeongyeongdang is
modeled on a typical aristocratic manor house and is
not painted with the colorful patterns that normally
Though Changdeokgung Palace was built, like Gyeongbokgung, in adorn palace and temple buildings.
© Robert Koehler

the early decades of the Joseon Dynasty, the original reasons for its
construction are not clear. It was useful, however, for monarchs to
have a spare palace to relocate to if the main palace burned down, 56,000 reasons to visit
disease broke out, or factional in-fighting made the court affairs too Though Huwon is often known as Biwon, or
unmanageable. “Secret Garden,” many Koreans reject the latter name on
What is clear is that Changdeokgung started out as a small the grounds that it was coined in 1908, during the prelude to Japan’s colonization of
palace, then expanded over the years. After the disastrous Japanese Korea, and therefore lacks authenticity.
© Robert Koehler

invasions of the late 16th century, when much of Seoul was destroyed, But the woods themselves are full of authenticity. UNESCO claims there are “56,000 specimens of various
Changdeokgung was restored before Gyeongbokgung and remained species of trees and plants” here. I haven’t counted them, but Huwon is certainly the kind of place that gets
Joseon’s principal palace for the next three centuries. bombarded with the “haven of nature in the heart of the city” cliché at least 56,000 times a day, and for good
If I were a Joseon monarch, I would have restored Changdeokgung reason.
first, too. With its irregular layout, meandering woodland pathways and From neighboring Wonseo-dong, Korean red pines dominate the view into the palace grounds, towering
secluded pools, it’s a perfect place to get lost and spend a day shirking over the stone walls and echoing through the winter with the calls of magpies.
royal responsibilities by hiding in the woods with a good book. In In spring, Changdeokgung comes into its own. Ancient scholar trees, zelkovas and maples produce new
the south of the complex is the usual palatial assortment of halls and fanfares of bright green leaves, punctuated by splashes of pink, white and red plum trees and, later on, peonies
pavilions, demonstrating the skill of Joseon’s carpenter-builders and embodying the ideals of Confucian and azaleas. Deeper in the woods, walnuts, white oaks, chestnuts, hornbeams and countless other species stir
statecraft with names like “Injeongjeon,” or “Hall of Benevolent Government.” into life.
My favorite time to visit Changdeokgung is during the summer monsoon, when the whole place is
swallowed by low clouds. The air is so saturated with water that it’s barely possible to tell when the rain stops
Integrating into the landscape and starts; the eaves of the buildings and the leaves of the trees drip endlessly onto the sandy ground. The
But rather than the buildings themselves, palace is no longer in Seoul at these times. It’s in a sodden universe of its own, the calls of birds inside and the
Changdeokgung stands out for the wonderful way it grunts and wheezes of buses outside absorbed by the fog.
integrates them into its landscape. This masterpiece What I like about Changdeokgung is that it’s a haven in the heart of the
of landscaping is largely responsible for city, but for plants and animals more than humans. With the exception
Changdeokgung’s designation as a UNESCO World of a smattering of officially protected old trees tucked away in
Heritage Site. The global body calls Changdeokgung random neighborhoods, the only places in Seoul that a tree-hugger
“exceptional for the way in which the buildings are like me can go for some classic arboreal appreciation are the
integrated into and harmonized with the natural grounds of palaces and royal shrines, traditionally immune to the
setting, adapting to the topography and retaining depredations of developers and firewood gatherers. Though Seoul’s
indigenous tree cover.” wooded mountains and parks also offer fixes of leafy respite, they
Visitors heading north, beyond the main palace are seldom home to the kind of old and venerable
buildings, and approaching the flank of the mountain giants found around palaces.
behind the palace will find Huwon, or the “Back Garden.” They say a house has to be lived in, or it
Here lies Buyongji Pond, one of the complex’s most charming rapidly starts to fall apart. Changdeokgung is no
spots. The pond is square and features a small, round island in its center, reflecting the Joseon belief that longer lived in — Korea’s royals are gone — and
“Heaven is round and Earth is square.” now its buildings must be kept from fire and
On one side of the pond is Buyongjeong Pavilion, a structure half sitting on the bank and half decay by the officials of the Cultural Heritage
suspended over the water, creating the sensation of being in a boat, for those who like imagining being Administration. But its woods live on and evolve,
in boats. On the opposite side of the pond stands Juhamnu Pavilion, a much larger building once used to drawing locals back year after year.

24 KOREA June _ 25
Arts & Entertainment 1 » Written by Diana Park

Korean Octogenarian Artists Lead buyers and dealers began to move away

© Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art


from works of young and new artists and

Global Art Movement


grew interested in artists whose work had
been long underappreciated.

Korean dansaekhwa artists attract New York and London curators and step into the Carriers of the global art movement
global spotlight Kim Guiline, “Inside, Outside,” 1980, oil on canvas, 195x520cm Lee Seung-taek (b. 1932) is a well-known
painter among the first generation of Korea

© Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art


experimental artists. This year in March,
he held a solo show in Manhattan’s Lévy
Gorvy Gallery. All 37 pieces, ranging from

© Gallery Hyundai
performance photographs to installations
and sculptures, were sold, aside from
10 non-sale pieces, and resulted in a
profit of USD 2.8 million. This was a rare
case in which New York collectors with
sophisticated tastes were enthusiastic about
Korean avant-garde artwork.
Kim Guiline (b. 1936), another pioneer
of dansaekhwa, also held his first U.S.
solo show in March. It was held in the
Lehmann Maupin Gallery, which has a
history of exhibiting many international
artists, including Korean artist Lee Bul, who
Park Seo-Bo, “Ecriture No.031219,” 2003, mulberry paper on canvas, mixed media, 182x228cm
was featured in their Hong Kong gallery’s
inaugural exhibition in 2013.
Park Seo-bo (b. 1931) is perhaps one of
the first figures who brought dansaekhwa
to the global market. In 2016, he first held
Dansaekhwa was a rapidly-changing yet turbulent time in an exhibition at White Cube in London,
mainly a collective Korea’s socio-political history. and during a second exhibition this year,
result from efforts While dansaekhwa has become one of he sold half of the works in his trademark
the leading movements in contemporary Ecriture series, which combines calligraphy
to bring out modern
Lee Seung-taek’s “Paper Tree.” Lee is one of several artists in their 80s who are driving Korean art’s international popularity. Korean art, its global recognition is a techniques with abstract styles.
Korean expression in
quite recent phenomenon. The spark Marketability and relevance aside,
a rapidly-changing
traces back to a 2014 exhibition at the perhaps what really captivated the
yet turbulent time in international collectors is the unmovable
There is a saying that goes, “The older the monochromatic colors and meditative Kukje Gallery in Seoul that led to a show
Korea’s socio-politi- grit and professionalism of the aging artists
grapes, the sweeter the wine.” In recent imagery. It was begun in the 1970s by at Blum & Poe in Los Angeles less than a
cal history. month later. Decades after the movement’s who dedicated their whole lives to the
years, the work of Korean artists has been young artists who sought to process and
making waves in the global art market. The respond to the tumultuous post-Korean establishment, these works finally stepped development of dansaekhwa. They express
pioneers of the Korean art genre known War experience through experimentation from the shadows into the spotlight of the cosmopolitan themes poignantly while
as dansaekhwa are not young emerging with new art styles. Though dansaekhwa global modern art market. This renewed sticking to their Korean roots. As long as
artists, however, but octogenarians whose was not without the influence of Western critical and commercial interest stemmed the artists’ hands grip their paintbrushes,
work expresses history through a modern movements, like the Art Informel and from dansaekhwa’s sophisticated mixture the universal draw of dansaekhwa that
aesthetic. Literally meaning “monochrome Abstract Expressionism of the 1940s, it of Western minimalist influences infused has caught the fastidious tastes of Western
painting” in Korean, dansaekhwa refers was mainly a collective result from efforts with traditional aesthetics. These factors collectors will continue to fascinate the
to a distinctive painting style that uses to bring out modern Korean expression in drew attention at a time when international global art circle.

26 KOREA June _ 27
Arts & Entertainment 2 » Written by Jason Bechervaise
Photos courtesy of Netflix

‘Okja’ Looks to Break New Ground in June, Bong’s latest film, “Okja,” is
challenging industry norms. It marks the
first time a Netflix-funded production has
60.7 million in Korea despite some initial
concerns that it was too dark. It was an
audacious project, but so is “Okja.” It’s
been invited into the Cannes competition. original content, which is risky business
Director Bong Joon-ho and Netflix team up to challenge industry It is also Bong’s first time to compete for the when it comes to Hollywood studios, which
norms with latest film coveted Palme d’Or, which many argue is rely on franchises and reboots. This is where
long overdue. The film, which is budgeted Netflix is beginning to thrive, however,
“Okja” was directed by Bong Joon-ho.
at USD 57 million, shares some similarities following the success of TV dramas such as
to “Snowpiercer” in terms of its global “Stranger Things,” which have helped boost

© Yonhap News
reach, illustrated through its casting of both subscribers, their primary goal.
Korean and Hollywood actors such as Ahn Still, “Okja” is different. About a girl who
Seo-hyun, Tilda Swinton, Jake Gyllenhaal will do anything to stop a multinational
and Paul Dano, along with its English and Okja is a movie — an company from taking her best friend, a
Korean dialogue. “Okja” was also shot expensive one — giant animal named Okja, it is a movie —
in different locations across Korea and written and directed an expensive one — written and directed by
North America. The investment this time, by a Korean director, a Korean director, funded by Netflix, that
however, comes from the United States, not funded by Netflix, is premiering not online, but in Cannes.
from a Hollywood studio, but from Netflix, Therefore, industry observers will be
that is premiering
the online streaming company that has watching closely to see how it is received,
not online, but in
close to 100 million subscribers worldwide. released and the subsequent effects it will
It’s being produced by Brad Pitt’s Plan B
Cannes. have on the wider industry. How will it be
Entertainment (“12 Years a Slave”), Kate released in the U.S and Korea, and when?
Street Picture Company and Korea’s Lewis A small scale simultaneous release akin to
Pictures (“Haemoo”). “Snowpiercer”? If so, will it enter the awards
race and compete with Amazon Studios,
which has encountered success with
Doing things differently “Manchester by the Sea” and Park Chan-
When “Snowpiercer” was released in the wook’s “The Handmaiden”?
U.S. in 2014, it generated some controversy There are also questions about the
owing to Harvey Weinstein’s attempts to impact on the local industry, given Netflix’s
edit the film for the U.S. market. Bong increasing presence in films and TV. They
refused and so the film was released see Korea as Asia’s creative hub, and they
through the Weinstein Company’s are not alone. Hollywood studios 20th
Director Bong Joon-ho, Tilda Swinton, Ahn Seo-hyun and Jake Gyllenhaal attend the Cannes Film Festival for the debut of their film, “Okja.” subsidiary Radius-TWC, which gave it a Century Fox Korea and Warner Bros. Korea
significantly smaller theatrical release than are also following suit after the commercial
initially planned, also making it available on and critical success of Na Hong-jin’s “The
video on demand (VOD) the same day. Yet, Wailing” and Kim Jee-woon’s “The Age of
Bong Joon-ho is not just a filmmaker. He Korean cinema leapt onto the world stage. Shadows.” In short, they see the strength
is an industry pioneer. He looks ahead and “The Host” (2006) was a brilliant and the film was a success on both mediums.
The theatrical release was expanded from Film poster for “Okja”
of Korea’s media industry both in terms of
breaks new ground. His debut, “Barking record-breaking localized blockbuster talent but also in how this manifests into
Dogs Never Bite” (2000), may have been outperforming Hollywood fare, while just eight screens to 356 following strong
word of mouth, and the film accumulated lucrative box office potential.
a box office disaster, but it has since been “Mother” (2009) centered on a Bong Joon-ho, therefore, is once again
credited for being ahead of its time for its female lead in her sixties, which more than USD 10 million from both
theatrical and VOD revenues by September at the forefront of these changes. With full
use of social satire. Local film magazine remains rare in a male-dominated creative control and a stellar cast, it’s not a
Cine 21 issued an apology one year after its industry. “Snowpiercer” (2013) was a 2014.
At home, the film was a risk, leading to question of whether “Okja” will break new
release, having failed to really acknowledge step into the unknown: a Korean film ground. It is a question of how.
its significance. “Memories of Murder” with English dialog based on a French CJ Entertainment having to foot the USD
(2003) remains one of the greatest Korean comic. It was a game changer. 39 million budget when other investors Jake Gyllenhaal plays the role of zoologist
films of all time and came at a point when Even before its release here in Korea backed out, but the film amassed USD Johnny Wilcox.

28 KOREA June _ 29
Korean Culture in Brief »

Danoje Festival Held in Gangneung Special Exhibit Celebrates Traditions of Olympic Host Film Museum to Open

© National Museum of Korean Contemporary History


Province in Busan
The city of Gangneung hosted the or ssireum, and, most spectacularly, a
Gangneung Danoje Festival from street procession in which participants A museum dedicated to the past,

© National Folk Museum of Korea


May 27 to June 3. One of Korea’s enshrine the memorial tablets of the present and future of the film industry
most important folk celebrations, the guardian spirits at an altar set up in the will open in the southeastern port of
Gangneung Danoje Festival is, at its Dano Marketplace at Namdaecheon Busan in June. The museum, conceived
heart, a shamanist rite to honor the Stream. Because of its cultural as a build-transfer-lease project, took
city’s guardian spirit and to pray for importance, the festival was designated 10 years to complete. It includes exhibit
peace and prosperity. The festival Important Intangible Cultural Property halls, classrooms, a film theater and
includes shamanist rituals, masked No. 13 in 1967 and a Masterpiece of more.
plays, traditional music and dancing, the Oral and Intangible Heritage of The museum lets visitors learn
folk games such as Korean wrestling, Humanity by UNESCO in 2005. ‘Bring Them Home’ about the history and development of
the Korean film industry, listen to film
To mark the anniversary of the start of music and read archived materials, and

© Gangneung Danoje Festival Committee


the Korean War, the National Museum even get some hands-on experience with
of Korean Contemporary History and film-making. The facilities incorporate
the Defense Ministry’s Agency for KIA the latest technology, including virtual
Recovery & Identification (MAKRI) are reality, and embrace not only adults but
hosting a joint exhibit to commemorate also children.
the South Korean and UN soldiers who
never returned from the battlefield.

© Busan Metropolitan City


The “Bring Them Home” exhibition, The National Folk Museum of Korea work of 23 contemporary artists. The
which runs through June 11, is also an in Seoul is hosting a special exhibit to exhibit has three sections: Mountains,
opportunity to show the public what celebrate the nature, food and traditions which celebrate the province’s rugged
MAKRI does. Founded in 2007, MAKRI of Gangwon-do, the host province scenery; Flowers, featuring arts and crafts
leads efforts to find and identify the of the upcoming PyeongChang 2018 incorporating Gangwon-do’s spring
remains of soldiers who fell in the Korean Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. blossoms; and Rice, with displays of
War. It has found 9,500 sets of remains so Running through June 20, “A Joy of Gangwon-do’s hearty local cuisine and
far, and 121 have been identified. Spring: Scenery, Blossoms and Delicacy” related crafts.
features crafts, folk artifacts and the

Actor Kim Woo-bin Named Honorary


© POCOG

Ambassador for PyeongChang 2018 Games Two Korean Films Compete at Cannes

© Jeonwonsa Film
Popular actor Kim Woo-bin has been a year to go.” Bong Joon-ho’s blockbuster “Okja” “The Day After” was Hong’s fourth
appointed honorary ambassador for Kim, a former model, is wildly and Hong Sang-soo’s “The Day After” time in the “In Competition” section.
the PyeongChang 2018 Olympic and popular both at home and overseas, competed in this year’s Cannes Film The auteur’s work previously competed
Paralympic Winter Games. As honorary particularly in East Asia. His career Festival, held in May. The two films in 2004, 2005 and 2012. “The Day After,”
ambassador, Kim will participate in has blossomed with recent star turns in joined 16 others in the “In Competition” which stars Kim Min-hee and Kwon
promotional activities to boost local and the TV series “Uncontrollably Fond” section, the prestigious film festival’s Hye Hyo, is only one of two films Hong
international interest in the upcoming and the action film “Master.” His fellow main competition. It was the first time in has sent to Cannes this year. “Claire’s
event. “I've always been interested in honorary ambassadors include actor seven years that two Korean films took Camera," which stars French actress
sports,” Kim said in a statement. “I'll try Lee Min-ho, L.A. Dodgers pitcher Ryu part in the competition. Lee Chang- Isabelle Huppert, debuted in the “Special
my best to get people interested in the Hyun-jin and former figure skating star dong’s “Poetry” and Im Sang-soo’s “The Screening” section.
PyeongChang Olympics, with less than Kim Yuna. Housemaid” competed in 2010.

30 KOREA June _ 31
Literature » Written by Chang Iou-chung
Illustrated by Kim Yoon-myung

No Mere Child’s Tale she describes how children feel when


certain events or accidents occur in
their day-to-day lives. She embraces
The hen who dreamed she
could fly
“The Hen Who Dreamed She Could
young adults, even adult readers, as Fly” (2000) is a million-plus seller in
Hwang Sun-mi’s ‘The Hen Who Dreamed She Could Fly’ encourages children well; her stories are “well-structured the Korean language market. However,
to reflect on who they are with wonderful themes.” Indeed, they it took 12 years to sell one million
represent adults trying to see through a copies after it was first published. There
child’s eyes. was a difference in views between the
Hwang once revealed her secret in publisher, who claimed that the book

© Robert Koehler
an interview when she was asked how was for young adults because it was too
to describe what children feel and think. difficult for children to read, and the
“I’m often asked that question, and the author, who wanted it to be published
Hwang feels that adults tend to ask whether I observe specifically for child readers. After its
books targeted other kids, assuming I must have seen a success, the book has been made into
toward younger child in that situation. You know what? a stage play and an animated film. Its
You don’t need to. All you need to do is
readers should success has transcended borders, too. In
to consider the child to be human. You 2013, the book was published in English
provide an exit for
try to be in the kid’s position in a certain and topped a bestsellers list in the U.K.
the reader chosen situation.” In a 2011 interview marking the
themselves, However, what really made her sales of one million copies, Hwang
instead of forcing the most influential children’s book said that she wrote the book during a
upon them some writer in the Korean market might be difficult time in her life. “We had an ill
adult’s concept her philosophy about the child’s mind. person in the family. Everyone was a bit
of a “lesson” or The market is biased toward “good” depressed and it was difficult to focus.
trying to tell them children’s books that can “educate” There was a gap between my writing and
young readers, or so most adults think.
something. me, who might soon lose an important
Hwang, on the other hand, feels that person in my life, because writing was
books targeted toward younger readers so much fun. I thought it would be nice
should provide an exit for the reader if there was anything else I could do but
chosen themselves, instead of forcing write. When I was writing this, I didn’t
upon them some adult’s concept think about publishing it or writing
of a “lesson” or trying to tell them some kind of children’s book. I just
something. thought I was making up a story.” Later,
“The Hen Who Dreamed She Could Fly” has been exported to 29 countries.
“Pippi Longstocking was banned she said in several interviews that the
for children when it was first published, model for the story was her father.
In the course of life, there comes a Ilbo called Sun-mi Hwang, who now I’ve heard,” Hwang said in an interview “The Hen Who Dreamed She Could
time when people must step back and has more than 20 years of experience taken after her 20th year as a writer, in Fly” is the story of a hen named Sprout.
think: Who am I? What is my role in writing children’s books, a “power which she discussed being a “power” Penguin Random House, the publisher
society? Author Hwang Sun-mi sets author” in the field of children’s writer. “However, Pippi Longstocking of the English edition, describes it as “an
out to answer these questions — or literature. Hwang was chosen as the became a classic now because children anthem for freedom, individuality and
to reflect upon them, at any rate — in most influential Korean children’s loved it. A book chosen by children motherhood.”
her children’s book, “The Hen Who book writer by eight out of 10 editors- remains and becomes a classic, not a The story of Sprout at first reads
Dreamed She Could Fly.” in-chief at children’s book publishers. book marketed by some publishers. as an adventure, as she dreams of a
The Dong-A Ilbo said she was leading The life of a book is purely given wild and unfettered life. Later, the
the field of children’s literary books in by its readers, not by the marketing story delves into child-rearing, as
Children’s book writer, Korea in the 1990s with works such as department. That’s the very basic nature well. Throughout Sprout’s experiences
Hwang Sun-mi “The Hen Who Dreamed She Could that a book is supposed to have.” and realizations, Hwang shares the
The influential Korean daily Dong-A Fly.” According to the newspaper, frustrations and realizations we all face

32 KOREA June _ 33
as we pursue our sacrifice himself to save the other two. you Greentop? Are you Straggler? forward so the eggs would roll to the that had matured and given birth
dreams and try Sprout dedicates herself even more to Or, indeed, perhaps you see things other side of a barrier, separating them to fragrant flowers. She’d spotted the
to reach our properly raising the baby mallard. from the weasel’s point of view. Even from their mothers. blooming acacia tree the very day she
further goals. She names the baby duck children can begin to think about The door opened, and in came the was shut in the coop. A few days later,
Sprout lays eggs Greentop and mothers him like only their identity and how they fit into farmer, pushing a wheelbarrow. The the tree shed its flowers, which flew
every day in the hen a mother hen could. As Greentop society. Do not let an adult tell you hens clucked impatiently, creating a around like snowflakes, leaving behind
house but she never grows up, he begins to realize that what to do. This is what Hwang shares din. green leaves. The leaves lived on until
bears any chick of her he’s somewhat different from his with us, and this is what we can all “Breakfast!” late fall before turning yellow and then
own. She dreams of mother, and he wants to join a flock learn from “The Hen Who Dreamed “I’m hungry, hurry, hurry!” dropping quietly. Sprout was awestruck
living like the hen of migrating mallards. Greentop She Could Fly.” With a bucket, the farmer scooped as she watched the leaves stand strong
that lives in the yard, comes back to Sprout, however, as he out the feed. “Always so hungry! You against rough winds and heavy rain
who raises her own eggs. feels frustrated among the flock of better make it worth it. This feed isn’t before fading and falling. When she
As she’s no longer content ducks. Nonetheless, as any supporting Sprout wondered how many eggs she cheap.” saw them reborn in light green the
just laying eggs, the farmer and mother would, she encourages had left inside her; she hoped this was Sprout looked through the wide- following spring, she was overcome
his wife have her carted off to a pit, Greentop to return to them. Watching the last one. With a sigh she peered open door, focusing on the world with excitement.
but during the process she escapes her little duck fly high with his fellow outside. Because her cage was near outside. It had been a while since she’d Sprout was the best name in the
from the hen house and the yard. She mallards, Sprout herself realizes that the entrance she could see out beyond had an appetite. She had no desire to world. A sprout grew into a leaf and
starts a new life. she wanted to fly, a concept that had the wire mesh wall. The door to the lay another egg. Her heart emptied embraced the wind and the sun before
In the wild, she’s almost eaten by never occurred to her before. This is coop didn’t quite fit its frame; through of feeling every time the farmer’s wife falling and rotting and turning into
a weasel, but is saved by a mallard life-long learning, a healthy message the gap she could see an acacia tree. took her eggs. The pride she felt when mulch for bringing fragrant flowers
duck, Straggler, that she knew from for young-at-heart readers of all ages. Sprout loved that tree so much, she she laid one was replaced by sadness. into bloom. Sprout wanted to do
the yard. Sprout, instead of remaining didn’t complain about the cold winter She was exhausted after a full year something with her life, just like the
with Straggler, goes back to the wind that made it through the gap, or of this. She couldn’t so much as touch sprouts on the acacia tree. That was
yard, her dream place. However, the Hwang’s works in English and the pelting summer rain. her own eggs, not even with the tip of why she’d named herself after them.
doorkeeper dog, the hen of whom other languages Sprout was an egg-laying hen, her foot. And she didn’t know what Nobody called her Sprout, and she
Sprout was envious, and the rooster After the success of “The Hen Who which meant she was raised for her happened to them after the farmer’s knew her life wasn’t like a sprout’s, but
who’s in charge of order in the yard Dreamed She Could Fly,” Hwang’s eggs. She had come to the coop over wife carried them in her basket out of still the name made her feel good. It
refuse to welcome Sprout. Her dream border-crossing appeal expanded to a year before. Since then, all she had the coop. was her secret. Ever since she’d named
is frustrated and broken. But then, she the rest of her oeuvre and to other done was lay eggs. She couldn’t wander It was bright outside. The acacia herself, she’d gotten into the habit of
finds an egg in the wild forest. languages. As of July 2016, the book around, flap her wings, or even sit on tree on the edge of the yard was noting the events occurring outside
Out of nowhere, Sprout finds the has been sold in 29 markets around her own eggs. She had never stepped blooming with white flowers. Their the coop: everything from the moon
egg and takes care of it with all her the world, and another one of her outside the coop. But ever since she sweet scent caught the breeze and waxing and waning and the sun rising
heart and energy. As it turns out, it books was published in English in had seen a hen running around the wafted into the coop, filling Sprout’s and setting to the animals in the
was Straggler’s baby mallard, but the October 2016. “The Dog Who Dared yard with the adorable chicks she had heart. Sprout got up and shoved her barnyard bickering. (“The Hen Who
mother duck had been eaten by the to Dream,” which the author herself hatched, Sprout had harbored a secret head through the wires of her cage. Her Dreamed She Could Fly,” Penguin
weasel. Again with Straggler’s help has chosen as her favorite work, is desire — to hatch an egg and watch bare, featherless neck was rubbed raw. Books, 2013, p. 5-8)
protecting Sprout and his egg, she based on her father and his dog. the birth of her chick. But it was an The leaves laid flowers again! Sprout
successfully hatches the egg. Straggler, So, ask yourself the question. Are impossible dream. The coop was tilted was envious. If she squinted, she
at one scary point, even has to could make out the light green leaves

34 KOREA May _ 35
Written by Lee Kijun
Policy Review »
Photographed by Robert Koehler

Not Just a Hip Way to Eat


incredible that I can enjoy all kinds of
food in one sitting, from Cambodian
passion fruit yogurt to Mexican chipotle
nachos,” said Lee Sungshin, who visited the
Food trucks not only diversify the dining scene, but also boost youth entrepreneurship Cheonggye Stream Bamdokkaebi Market.
“Those kinds of foods are not easy to find
in Seoul.”
While Korea has long boasted a vibrant
street food scene, food trucks — vehicles
that have been renovated to allow people
to cook in them — had been prohibited by
law. They were legalized in Korea in 2014
as part of the government’s deregulation
efforts.
Since legalization, food trucks are
increasing rapidly. According to the Office
Jamaica Wasabi serves creatively prepared Japanese food.
for Government Policy Coordination,
there are 448 registered food trucks, up
from just three in 2015. The office expects
the number to exceed 650 by the end of the City officials see food have fun with a small investment,” owner
year. trucks as an oppor- Ryu Si-hyung told the Joongang Daily.
Operating a food truck is an attractive tunity for a more City officials see food trucks as an
startup for young entrepreneurs because it opportunity for a more diverse food scene
diverse food scene
costs less than starting any other business. that can attract more visitors of all ages.
that can attract more
Some 65 percent of food truck operators The Seoul Metropolitan Government
visitors of all ages.
are in their 20s and 30s. It takes about invited more than 130 food trucks to its
KRW 20 to 40 million, or USD 18,000 to Bamdokkaebi Night Market. “We hope
36,000, to start up a food truck business. food trucks can lead Seoul’s food scene
and start a new trend,” said Shin Yoon-
jae, director of the Seoul Design Research
Getting hip and trendy Institute at the Seoul Design Foundation,
The transformation of the food truck an affiliate of the Seoul government.
industry isn’t just numbers. Although they In January, the Suwon city government
were illegal, food trucks selling tteokbokki started renting out 18 food trucks to
or toast with ham and cheese have always young people who want to start their
The Kimchi Bus, which serves Korean-infused Mexican food, has toured 34 countries.
been around. Nowadays, however, food own business. The government set
trucks are getting hip with young chefs, up a Food Truck Zone in the Suwon’s
sleek designs and creative foods. Nammun Market so that young
Food trucks introduce new foods to a hungry
Kimchi Bus is typical of this new entrepreneurs can run their business
As night falls on Seoul, a door to another Operating a food locations in Seoul: Yeouido Hangang market.
generation of food trucks. It settled in there. “By accommodating food trucks in
world opens. The Bamdokkaebi Night truck is an attractive Park, Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Banpo
Seoul’s Common Ground, a shopping a traditional market like Nammun, they
Market, a new type of festival that startup for young en- Hangang Park, Cheonggyecheon Stream
complex popular with young people, are provided with a suitable place for their
incorporates a variety of concepts, opens at trepreneurs because and Cheonggye Plaza. The markets, which
when it opened in 2015. The truck sells business, and the market can attract young
night and disappears by dawn’s early light it costs less than will continue until Oct. 29, open every
kimchi-infused Mexican food, such as customers who’d like to visit trendy food
like the night goblin, or bamdokkaebi, of Friday and Saturday from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.
starting any other kimchi quesadillas. Most of its customers trucks,” a city official said. “It’s a win-win
Korean lore. The markets feature various handmade
business. are in their 20s and 30s. “The food truck strategy.”
The night market was a big hit last year, goods, fashion shows, musical concerts and
attracting more than 3.3 million visitors. dance performances. Their most popular industry is really attractive because one can Food trucks have become a staple at night
The 2017 event started March 24 in five feature, however, is the food trucks. “It’s instantly communicate with the public and markets.

36 KOREA June _ 37
This is Pyeongchang » Written by Robert Koehler

Sleeping Off the Beaten Track


the renowned scholar Yi I. The village has 19

© Woljeongsa Templestay
units and 32 rooms for rent.
A less traditional but more artistic option
is the seaside Haslla Art World Museum Hotel.
Gangwon-do, the host of PyeongChang 2018, offers some unconventional A married couple, both sculptors, operate the
hotel, which overlooks the deep blue waters of
places to stay the East Sea. The hotel itself is a work of art.
Art graces its individually appointed rooms
and common spaces. Indeed, guests feel like
The province of Gangwon-do, the host ventured to the coastal town to take in the they are staying in a museum or gallery rather
of the PyeongChang 2018 Olympic and mountains and the scent of the sea. The city than a lodging facility.
Paralympic Winter Games, inspires with its has a rich history, time-honored folk traditions
Participants in Woljeongsa’s Templestay program enjoy some walking meditation in the temple’s forests.
soaring mountains, deep valleys and splendid and festivals and great local food. In recent
seascapes. The best way to discover the region’s years, it has even developed the country’s finest Highland rusticity

© Jeongseon County
charms is to spend a night amid its rugged, coffee scene. Pyeongchang is a county of rolling highland
natural beauty. While conventional hotels may Located near beautiful Gyeongpoho Lake, hills, lofty mountain peaks, fields of
be familiar and convenient, the province also the Seongyojang is one of the largest and best wildflowers and rustic warmth and charm. As
boasts some unusual and creative places to preserved Joseon-era mansions in the country. close to the steppe as you’ll get in Korea, the
stay as well. Let’s discover some of Gangwon- The graceful manor has been the family region’s vast nature and big blue sky captivate
do’s more exceptional lodging options, where home of the aristocratic descendants of Lee visitors. Pyeongchang is especially lovely in
accommodation is more than just a place to Nae-beon, an 18th century statesman, for 10 winter, when its deep snows and enchanting
sleep, but an experience all its own. generations. While the family still occupies scenery make it a popular skiing destination.
much of the residence, several halls serve as The mountain village of Duil-ri is typical of
guest houses where visitors can experience old the region’s communities, its residents mostly
Seaside sensations Korea’s refined sense of beauty and charm. making their livings from the land and forests. Gariwangsan Natural Recreational Forest is a relaxing place to stay.
The city of Gangneung, which will host ice Local authorities also built a new village of Due to decreasing numbers of students, the
events like skating, hockey and curling, has Korean-style Hanok homes near the Ojukheon local elementary school closed in 2009. The
been a tourist destination since at least the House, the home of the Joseon poet and artist authorities renovated the old school, however,
Shin Saimdang and the birthplace of her son, The best way to Korea. Most residents live along the rivers and
Joseon era (1392–1910), when aristocrats turning it into Yakcho Village Duil Elementary
discover the region’s the narrow valleys between the towering peaks.
School, a place where visitors can stay and Jeongseon’s dramatic landscape lends itself
experience local life. . charms is to spend a
to picturesque accommodation. One such place
If Yakcho Village Duil Elementary School night amid its rug-
is the Train Pension, a bed-and-breakfast located

© HASLLA ARTWORLD
is too much “of this world” for your liking, ged, natural beauty. at Gujeol-ri Station, a former whistle stop on the
you can enjoy a more spiritual experience Jeongseon Line. Gujeol-ri is also where you can
at Woljeongsa Temple, a historical Buddhist take the Jeongseon Rail Bike, a scenic pedal-
monastery deep in the mountains that make driven bike that runs along the discontinued
up Odaesan National Park. Like many temples, train tracks through the mountains.
Woljeongsa hosts a “Templestay” program, Visitors can recover from the stress and
which provides visitors an opportunity to scars of daily life in Jeongseon’s verdant
experience Korea’s 1,700 years of Buddhist forests, too. The Donggang Riverview Natural
tradition. Recreation Forest is a campground high in the
mountains overlooking the Donggang River,
a scenic waterway that snakes its way through
Where a river runs through it the craggy landscape. Another option is the
Like its neighbor Pyeongchang, Jeongseon is Gariwangsan Natural Recreation Forest, a
a rugged place, roughly hewn by the wind, collection of log cabins on the wooded slopes
water and time. Ancient rivers cut deep, cliff- in Mount Gariwangsan. Guests can stroll amid
lined canyons through the mountains as they the mountain’s forests, so thick the trees blot
meander towards the lowlands of western out the sky.
Sculptures and other works of art grace Haslla Artworld’s guest rooms.

38 KOREA June _ 39
Current Korea » Written by Kim Eugene
Photos courtesy of Yonhap News

Building a New Korea


As President Moon Jae-in assumes office, the new administration
pledges to correct the mistakes of the past and bring the nation
together

“I will become a president who comforts Taking the oath of office at the National
people in sorrow. I will be a president who Assembly of Korea in Seoul on May 10,
communicates with others. I will exert my President Moon pledged to create a “new
authority in a humble and modest manner; Korea.”
I will build a country stronger than it has “Today, serving as President in the 19th
ever been. I will not be a president who is presidential term of the Republic of Korea, I
domineering and authoritative but one who take the first step toward a new Korea,” he said.
communicates and promotes dialogue.” “My heart is burning with enthusiasm to create
Moon Jae-in was sworn in as the new a country that we have never experienced
president of the Republic of Korea on May 10. before. My head is now filled with blueprints
The former democracy activist, human rights for ushering in a new world characterized by
lawyer, presidential chief-of-staff and lawmaker unity and coexistence.”
is Korea’s 12th president; he is also serving the Promising to break away from what he
nation’s 19th presidential term. called the “erroneous practices” of the past,
“I will become the president for everyone,” Moon said he would be among the first people
he said in his inaugural address. “This date — to change. He vowed to make Korea a nation
May 10, 2017 — will go down in history as the “worthy of being called a nation.” “In recent
beginning of the genuine unity of the people.” tough times, the people asked whether this is a
country,” he said. “President Moon Jae-in will
start anew from this very question. From today,
I will be a president who makes this nation
A nation worthy of being called a
worthy of being called a nation.”
nation
President Moon took office following a
resounding victory in May 9’s presidential
A Gwanghwamun president?
election. He won over 41 percent of the total
votes cast, surpassing his nearest rival by over One change President Moon commits to bring
5.5 million votes. The vote differential was the is a freer political culture. Vowing to end the
largest in the history of Korean presidential “authoritarian culture of the presidency,” the
president has pledged to leave the comfort of
Taking the oath of elections. Nonetheless, the new president
embraced his erstwhile rivals. the presidential mansion, Cheong Wa Dae, to
office at the National begin what he calls “an era of the presidential
Assembly of Korea “There are no winners or losers in this
election,” he said in his inaugural address. “We office in Gwanghwamun Square.” He will
in Seoul on May venture forth into Gwanghwamun Square and
are companions to lead the new Republic of
10, President Moon Korea together. Now we have to move forward markets to communicate directly with the
pledged to create a hand in hand, leaving behind the moments of people. His government will host large public
“new Korea.” intense competition.” forums at Gwanghwamun Square.

40 KOREA June _ 41
issues. “The Korea-U.S. alliance is more

© Jeon Han
important than ever for the Korean Peninsula,
especially in our current state of uncertainty,”
he said. “The Korea-U.S. alliance has always
formed the basis of our policies related to
diplomacy and national security. This fact will
remain unchanged in the future.”
President Moon and Chinese President Xi
Jinping shared a 40-minute phone call. “The
two leaders agreed that they both feel quite close
to each other, and they also exchanged their
thoughts on a wide range of issues, including
ways to expand bilateral ties overall, and ways to
deal with challenges on the Korean Peninsula,”
new chief presidential secretary for public
relations Yoon Young-chan said in a briefing.
President Moon greets a speaker at the memorial ceremony for the
May 18 Gwangju Democratization Movement. President Moon told President Xi, “We
have the will to further develop bilateral ties so
that we become practical strategic cooperative
partners, with a relationship based on trust.”
He also stressed for Korea to enhance its Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe,
ability to defend itself. “Strong security is made Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Russian
possible with mighty defense capabilities,” he President Vladimir Putin, German Chancellor
said. “The government will also strive to further Angela Merkel and Canadian Prime Minister
enhance self-reliant defense capabilities.” Justin Trudeau were among the other foreign
(Top left) President Moon gives his inauguration address at the National Assembly building on May 10. leaders who sent congratulatory messages.
(Top right) President Moon, flanked by the first lady and the head of presidential security, arrives at Cheong Wa Dae for his first day of work.
(Bottom left) President Moon talks with officials over a cup of coffee at Cheong Wa Dae on May 11. (Bottom right) President Moon visits an elementary school in Seoul on May 15.
Indian Prime Minister Modi even tweeted
World congratulates new president congratulatory messages in both English and
The new president Korean.
“The President’s imperial power will prioritizing the employment issue, he will pledged to bring Leaders from around the world sent messages
The international media also took great
be shared as much as possible,” he said. “I also promote the reform of the country’s large the nation together of congratulations and encouragement to
interest in the election. In particular, the Asian
will make sure that agencies that have great business conglomerates. He also pledged to President Moon and his new administration.
and to end the era of edition of the U.S. current events weekly TIME
authority remain completely independent from seek ways to resolve the hardships of irregular In a 30-minute congratulatory phone call,
political, economic put President Moon, then only a candidate, on
politics. There will be a system to keep these workers. U.S. President Donald Trump said he looked
and social conflict. forward to working with President Moon. He
its cover. Major international news channels
agencies in check so that none of them will be To maintain peace on the Korean Peninsula, and newspapers, including CNN, the Wall
He promises, instead, also invited him to Washington at an early date.
able to wield absolute power.” President Moon pledged to strengthen its Street Journal, BBC, NHK and CCTV gave
The new president also pledged to bring traditional friendships, while at the same time to promote equal “President Donald J. Trump spoke today
Moon’s election significant coverage, too. The
the nation together, ending the era of political, establishing a peace regime in Northeast Asia. opportunities, with with President Moon Jae-in of the Republic
BBC, for instance, profiled the life of the new
economic and social conflict. He promises “For the sake of peace on the Korean Peninsula, fair processes and of Korea to congratulate him and the Korean
president, from his childhood near Busan to
to promote equal opportunities, with fair I will crisscross the globe,” he said in his just results. people on his great election victory and their
his election victory. The broadcaster stressed
processes and just results. Recognizing inaugural address. “If needed, I will immediately peaceful, democratic transition of power,”
his desire to improve inter-Korean relations.
opposition parties as partners in state affairs, fly to Washington. I will also visit Beijing and said the White House in a press statement.
“On 9 May 2017 — more than two decades
his administration will hold regular dialogues Tokyo and even Pyongyang under the right “President Trump and President Moon agreed
after he helped lead the country to its first
and meetings. He will appoint officials based on circumstances.” He will work to bolster the to continue to strengthen the United States-
democratic elections – Mr. Moon was voted in
merit, not birthplace or political inclinations. long-time alliance with the United States. At the Republic of Korea alliance and to deepen
as president,” wrote the BBC. “What his tenure
On the economic front, the president same time, he will talk with Washington and the enduring friendship between our two
will mean for the country remains to be seen.
swears to end the allegedly close relations Beijing to resolve issues pertaining to the U.S. countries.”
President Moon’s face appears on the However, finding a way forward with North
between the state and businesses. While deployment of THAAD anti-missile batteries in President Moon expressed his desire to have
cover of the Asian edition of the U.S. Korea will be high on his to-do list.”
Korea. weekly Time. a “heart-to-heart” talk on pending bilateral

42 KOREA June _ 43
Flavor » Written by Cynthia Yoo
Photographed by ao studio Kang Jinju
Stylized by 101recipe

Meat Patties with Tteokgalbi looks like a hamburger patty. Often, it’s minced
beef and pork mixed together with a variety of ingredients

Bamboo Shoots and seasoning. Despite its humble appearance, tteokgalbi


boasts rather royal origins. The story goes that a Joseon
king complained that it was demeaning of him to chew
Savory favorite began as way to meat off a beef rib. A clever cook in his court heard of his
complaint and chopped up some ribs and shaped the meat
stroke royal egos
into smaller patties. The patties reminded Koreans of tteok,
or rice cakes, and that’s how the moniker tteokgalbi stuck.
This royal dish became popular among the aristocracy and
elite families in the land and spread across the country.
It was also known as hyo-galbi (“hyo” means filial piety)
and no-galbi (“no” means the elderly) because the minced
meat patties were easier for the elderly to enjoy.
These days, tteokgalbi is popular among all walks of
life, and many travel to famous tteokgalbi restaurants in
Songjeong, Gwangju, Haenam, Hwasun and Damyang
in Jeollanam-do. Diners can enjoy a variety of tteokgalbi
dishes throughout the Jeolla region, but at this time of the
year, juksun tteokgalbi, a signature dish from Damyang, is
a great choice. Among Damyang residents, its tteokgalbi
ranks top among the wide range of local favorites, and it’s
easy to see why. The dish is famous for the high quality
How to make Juksun Tteokgalbi: of its ingredients and the rich flavors of the meat patties.
Combine the fruit, onion, Famous restaurants like Deokingwan use only top grade
garlic and ginger in a blender Hanwoo beef for its tteokgalbi, and instead of grinding the
and add the soy sauce, sugar meat, they finely chop the meat close to the ribs so that
and syrup to make the
tteokgalbi sauce. Mix in the
the resulting patties are bursting with rich savory flavors.
sauce with the minced beef From April to June, it’s bamboo season in Damyang,
and store the mixture in the and visitors can enjoy a special treat: juksun (bamboo
fridge for a day. Add chopped shoot) tteokgalbi. Bamboo shoots are low in calories but
green onions and sesame oil
rich in dietary fiber, B-complex vitamins and various
to the seasoned beef and form
small patties. Grill the patties minerals, such as manganese and copper. These tender
over charcoal or use a frying shoots have a great crisp and chewy texture but also, when
pan. Plate the beef patties and prepared properly, have a mild flavor profile that goes well
garnish them with bamboo
with a variety of ingredients and dishes. Here’s a juksun
shoots, greens and sesame
seeds.
tteokgalbi recipe for cooks to try at home.

44
Learning Korean » Written by Lim Jeong-yeo
Illustrated by Kim Yoon-myung

BTS Misses You


One of Korea’s top pop bands says, “Bogosipda”

The Bangtan Boys, or BTS, is arguably the most sought-after K-pop group to date.
BTS is the first, and so far the only, K-pop act to enter the Billboard 200 chart four
consecutive times.
The music video for BTS’s “Not Today,” released in February, received over 10 million
views on YouTube within 24 hours. The only K-pop act to top that record was Psy, with his
hits “Gentleman,” “Hangover” and, of course, “Gangnam Style.”
As for the latest album’s lead single, “Spring Day,” the music video was watched over 73
million times on YouTube within two months.
BTS’s Suga, who took part in composing and writing lyrics for “Spring Day,” said that he
conveyed his personal account in the lyrics that tell of nostalgic longing for someone who has
grown distant.
“Spring Day” repeats the line “Bogosipda (보고싶다).”
Bogosipda literally means “want to see.” The sentence can be completed with the addition
of subjects and objects. For instance, “(I) want to see you” would be “Naega bogosipda.” To
say you’d like to see a film, you can say, “Yeonghwa-reul bogosipda.” In conversation, however,
bogosipda often means “I miss you.”
To say “to miss,” the expression geuripda can also be used. “(I) miss you” would be “Nega
geuripda.”
In English, the lyrics for “Spring Day” say, “I want to see you. Now that I say it, I want
to see you even more. I’m looking at your photo, and I still want to see you. Time is cruel. I
hate us. It has become difficult for us to see each other. Here, it’s all winter. It’s winter even in
August.”

46
Korean Art Through Coloring

© National Folk Museum of Korea


Traditional bridal fan Honseon

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June 2017


여행 준비는 잘 하고 있어요?
Yeohaeng junbineun jal hago isseoyo?
Are you ready for your upcoming trip?
Traditional markets are great places Publisher
Oh Yeongwoo
Korean Culture and Information Service
to experience the spirit of the nation. Executive Producer
Park Byunggyu
The sights, the sounds, the smells, Editorial Advisers

the tastes ... markets offer an almost Cho Won-hyung, Lee Suwan, Park Inn-seok
여행 준비는 잘 하고 있어요? 네, 미리 기차표도 샀어요.
Email
unparalleled sensory experience. It’s webmaster@korea.net Yeohaeng junbineun jal hago isseoyo? Ne, miri gichapyodo sasseoyo.
Magazine Production Are you ready for your upcoming trip?
no surprise, therefore, that Seoul’s Seoul Selection
Yes, I booked a train ticket.

Namdaemun and Dongdaemun markets Editor-in-Chief


Robert Koehler

지난번에 드린 안내 책자가 도움이


are among Korea’s most popular tourist Production Supervisor
Kim Eugene 됐어요? 네, 나래 씨 덕분에 여행 준비가 빨리
destinations. Markets are changing with Producers
Park Miso, Woo Jiwon
Jinanbeone deurin annae chaekjaga
doumi dwaesseoyo?
끝났어요. 고마워요.
Ne, narae ssi deokbune yeohaeng
the times, too. In order to compete with Copy Editors
Did the travel guide I gave you help
junbiga ppalli kkeutnasseoyo.
Gomawoyo.
Gregory Eaves, Anna Bloom
department stores and supermarkets, Creative Director
you prepare your trip?
Yes, you helped me finish preparing
Lee Seung Ho
outdoor markets are becoming Designers
for the trip early. Thank you.
나래 Narae 밍밍 Mingming
multifaceted cultural spaces where Lee Bok-hyun, Jung Hyun-young

Illustrator
commerce and the arts come together. Jeong Hyo-ju

Photographers
Young people, too, are creating markets ao studio Kang Jinju, 15 Studio V-고 있다 Let’s practice!
‘V-고 있다’ can be attached to a verb stem directly and is used in the Let’s talk about plans for this summer vacation.
of their own, injecting youthful energy Printing
Pyung Hwa Dang Printing Co., Ltd.
present progressive tense. Attaching ‘V-고 있다’ to the verb stem shows
an action currently progressing or a continual action. In the latter case, it
and sophistication into a time-honored is mainly used to express the recent action that is being taken to carry out
the plan.
Q: What are your plans for this coming summer vacation?
올해 여름 휴가를 어떻게 계획하고 있어요?
Cover Photo
space. Photographed by 15 Studio
Gwangju’s 1913 Songjeong Station Market at night
V-(으)ㄴ
비행기표 아르바이트 바다
‘V-(으)ㄴ’ can be attached to a verb stem directly and is used in the past
In this issue of KOREA, we also tense. This ending makes the verb into an adjective that modifies a noun
plane ticket part-time job ocean

and expresses an action or an accident of the past. When the verb stem
breathe in the scent of green tea in ends with a consonant except for ㄹ, you can add –은. When the verb stem
ends with a vowel or a consonant ㄹ, you can add –ㄴ.
Boseong, talk with a top metal artist,
learn about director Bong Joon-ho’s film 기차표
train ticket
운동
work out

mountain
Korean Culture
“Okja” and more. A
Most people usually go on vacation in the summer.
This is because the hotter it gets, the harder it is to study
or work. In Korea, students on summer break or office
_ Editorial staff, KOREA workers often go on a vacation in the sizzling months
of July and August. Although the summer is the best 고향에 가기 위해 ______에 가려고
holiday season, more and more people are going on ______을/를 준비하고 ______을/를 할까 ______을/를 준비하고
vacation at different seasons of the year. 있어요. 생각하고 있어요. 있어요.
When do most people take a vacation in your country? I’m planning to I’m going to I’m preparing
What is the difference between a vacation in your ______ to visit my ______ . ______ to go to
country and a Korean vacation? hometown. _______.

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