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Hair Care

Ingredients Portfolio

With good chemistry great things happen.™


Table of Contents Page Number

Fixatives and Styling Polymers 3-9

Conditioning Polymers 10 - 12

Rheology Modifiers 13 - 14

Conditioners 15 - 16

Biofunctionals 16 - 17

UV Protectants 18

Preservatives 18 - 23

Aromatics with Antimicrobial Properties 23

Opacifiers/Pearlizers 23

Emulsifiers 24

Emollients 24 - 26

Lubricants 27 - 28

Encapsulates 29 - 30

Hair Care Overview Guide 2


Fixatives and Styling Polymers
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Advantage™ Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/ 37% solids in CH 3
• Strong, durable hold • Aerosol hairsprays 0.5 – 4.0% solids
LC-A polymer Dimethylaminoethyl ethanol CH 2 CH CH 2 CH CH 2 C • Stiff feel with good flexibility • Non-aerosol hairsprays
Methacrylate N O N O C=O • Superior high humidity curl retention
Copolymer O at low solids level
Advantage Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/ x y
(CH 2 ) 2
• Excellent shine
N
LC-E polymer Dimethylaminoethyl • High propellant tolerance
CH 3 CH 3
(Available in Methacrylate z • No neutralization required
EU only) Copolymer (and)
Lauryl Pyrrolidone
Advantage Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/ Powder • Strong, durable hold • Gels 0.5 – 4.0% solids
S polymer Dimethylaminoethyl • Stiff feel with good flexibility • Mousses
Methacrylate • Excellent high humidity curl retention • Hairsprays
Copolymer at low solids level • Pomades, waxes, pastes
• Excellent shine
• High propellant tolerance and
formulates into both high and low
Advantage 30%
VOC products
S Solution aqueous
• No neutralization required
polymer solution
• Enables alcohol-free claims
Advantage VA/Butyl Maleate/ Clear pale • Medium hold • Aerosol hairsprays 0.5 –5.0% solids
Plus Isobornyl Acrylate yellow CH2 CH CH CH CH2 CH
CH3
• Excellent high humidity • Non-aerosol hairsprays
O C O C O O C H 3C
polymer Copolymer solution C O OH OC4H9 O curl retention
CH3 • Good spray aesthetics with
x y CH3
Z fast dry time
Advantage Octylacrylamide/ Powder • Excellent high humidity curl retention • Aerosol hairsprays 0.5 – 5.0% solids
4910 polymer Acrylates/ • Exceptional stiffness • Non-aerosol hairsprays
Butylaminoethyl • Long-lasting hold
Methacrylate • High propellant tolerance
Copolymer • Works in all VOC systems

Aquaflex™ Isobutylene/ 40% solids • Provides superior “stiff” hold • Aerosol hairsprays Aerosol sprays:
FX-64 polymer Ethylmaleimide/ in hydro- CH3 H H CH3 H H • Good curl memory • Non-aerosol hairsprays 0.25 – 5% solids
Hydroxyethyl alcoholic CH2 C C C CH2 C C C • Excellent high humidity curl retention • Mousses
CH3 CH3
Maleimide Copolymer solution O
C
N
C
O O N O • Shine • Styling creams/lotions Non-aerosol
CH2 CH3 CH2 CH2OH • Manageability • Pomades, waxes, pastes sprays: 0.25 –
x y • No neutralization required 7% solids
Aquaflex VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/ 40% solids in CH3 • Can be formulated at all VOC levels • Aerosol hairsprays Aerosol sprays:
SF-40 polymer DMAPA Acrylates ethanol CH2 CH
O
CH2 CH CH2 C
• Good sprayability • Non-aerosol hairsprays 1.0 – 5% solids
N O C =O
Copolymer NH • Excellent high humidity curl retention
X
y (CH2)3 • Low-tack Non-aerosol
N CH3 • High propellant compatibility sprays: 0.5 – 5%
CH3
z
solids

Hair Care Overview Guide 3


Description/ Use
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications
Form Levels
Aquaflex™ Polyimide-1 30% aqueous • Volume and root boost • Gels 0.25 –
XL-30 polymer solution • Synergistic high humidity curl retention when • Spray gels 4.0%
used with typical thickeners • Spray mousses solids
• Flexibility gives style memory • Pomades, waxes, pastes
• Durable hold • Shampoos
• Dry films on hair are smooth • Conditioners
• Hair treatments
AquaStyle™ Polyquaternium- 69 30% solids in • Long-lasting hold • Gels 0.25 –
300 polymer1 hydroalcoholic • Stiff, strong hold with mechanical durability • Mousses 5.0%
solution • Excellent high humidity curl retention • Styling creams/lotions solids
• Enhances shine • Pomades, waxes, pastes
( CH2 CH ) (CH2 CH )
CH3
CH2 C
CH3
CH2 C
• Reduction of frizz • Styling sprays
N O N C O C O • AquaStyle 300 AF support alchohol-free (non-aerosol)
AquaStyle 300 30% aqueous O
NH NH claims, meets low-VOC requirements
AF polymer1 solution (CH2)3 (CH2)3
m n
N + N Cl- • Synergistic thickening with hydrophobically
H3C CH3
y
H3C CH3
z
modified gellants
C12H25 • Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix
when used in conjunction with one of the
following rheology modifiers (Ashland™
980/940 Carbomer, RapiThix A-60)

AquaStyle SH- Acrylates Copolymer Milky, white • Durable, all day hold • Crystal clear gels 0.5 –
100 polymer (and) Water to off-white • Good initial stiffness • Cream gels 2.0%
liquid • Excellent high humidity curl retention • Spray gels solids
O O O • Smooth comb-through • Creams and lotions
O O OH • No tack upon drying • Waxes and pomades
R • No flaking • Mousses
• Contributes to viscosity in formulations • Patent pending
Copolymer 845 VP/Dimethyla- 20% aqueous • Aids wet and dry combing • Gels 0.2 –
minoethyl solution • Imparts smoothness, gloss, body and silky feel • Mousses 4.0%
Methacrylate CH3 to hair • Blow-dry conditioners solids
Copolymer Copolymer • Gives smooth, conditioned feel to skin • Styling creams/lotions
CH2 CH CH2 C
845 O • Water and alcohol compatible • Pomades, waxes, pastes
N O C =O
(Optiphen™ • Copolymer 845 is compatible with Carbomer • Conditioning rinses
O
Preserved) and can be formulated into clear gels • Styling sprays
y (CH2)2
Copolymer 937 20% aqueous • Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix • Low-VOC sprays
solution N when used in conjunction with one of the
CH 3 CH 3 following rheology modifiers (Ashland
z
Copolymer 958 50% solids in 980/940 Carbomer, RapiThix A-60)
ethanol
Gaffix™ VC-713 Vinyl Caprolactam/ 37% solids in • Superior “natural feel” hold at low solids level • Hairsprays 0.5 –
polymer VP/ ethanol • Excellent propellant compatibility • Gels 4.0%
(sold as Dimethylaminoethyl • No neutralization required • Mousses solids
Copolymer VC- Methacrylate • Styling creams/lotions
713 in EU) Copolymer • Pomades, waxes, pastes

Hair Care Overview Guide 4


Gafquat

Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Gafquat™ 440 Polyquaternium-11 Flowable • Good wet and dry combing • Mousses 0.25 – 8.0%
polymer 30% alcoholic • Good curl retention • Gels solids
solution; • Clear, non-tacky films • Styling sprays
100,000 avg. • Builds body • Pomades, waxes,
MW • Enhances hair luster pastes
• Manageability • Leave-in
• Easy shampoo removability conditioning lotions
• Improves foam aesthetics
• Smooth skin application with
n m desirable after-feel
Gafquat 755N Highly viscous • Thermal/mechanical protection • Mousses 0.25 – 4.0%
polymer 20% aqueous • Good wet and dry combing • Gels solids
solution; • Good curl retention in leave-on hair • Pomades, waxes,
1,000,000 avg. styling products pastes
Gafquat MW • Clear, non-tacky films • Shampoos
755N-P polymer • Builds body • Conditioning rinses
(phenoxyethanol- • Enhances hair luster • Leave-in
paraben • Manageability conditioning lotions
preserved) • Improves foam aesthetics • Styling sprays
• Easy shampoo removability
Gafquat 755N-
• Smooth skin application with
O polymer
desirable after-feel
(Optiphen™
• Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte
preserved)
matrix when used in conjunction
with one of the following rheology
modifiers (Ashland 980/940
Carbomer, RapiThix A-60)

Gafquat HS-100 Polyquaternium-28 20% aqueous • Good wet and dry combing • Shampoos Shampoos/
polymer solution • Good curl retention in leave-on hair • Conditioners condition-
styling products • Styling creams/lotions ers:
• Clear, non-tacky films • Gels up to 1.0%
Gafquat HS- • Enhances hair luster • Mousses solids
100-0 polymer • Excellent stability at pH extremes • Pomades, waxes,
(Optiphen • Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte pastes Styling:
preserved) n y matrix when used in conjunction • Styling sprays 2.0 – 4.0%
with one of the following rheology • Permanent wave solids
modifiers (Ashland 980/940 solutions
Carbomer, RapiThix A-60)

Hair Care Overview Guide 5


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Gantrez™ A-425 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in OCH3 • High hold • Aerosol hairsprays 0.5 – 7.0%
polymer Copolymer ethanol CH2 CH CH CH
• Excellent shine • Non-aerosol hairsprays solids
O C C O
HO OCH4H9
• Durability • Spritzer gels
x
• Tack-free • Mousses
Gantrez ES-225 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in OCH3 • Good style retention • Styling creams/lotions
polymer Copolymer ethanol CH2 CH CH CH • Humidity resistant • Pomades, waxes, pastes
O C C O
HO OCH2H3
• Good propellant compatibility
• Pigment dispersant
x

Gantrez ES-335 Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in OCH3


• Emulsion stabilizer
CH2 CH CH CH
polymer Copolymer isopropanol O C C O
HO O
CH
H3C CH3 x

Gantrez ES-425 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in


OCH3
polymer Copolymer ethanol CH2 CH CH CH
O C C O
HO OCH4H9 x

Gantrez ES-435 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% in OCH3


polymer Copolymer isopropanol CH2 CH CH CH
O C C O
HO OCH4H9 x

Gantrez SP-215 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in OCH3


polymer Copolymer ethanol CH2 CH CH CH
O C C O
HO OCH2H3 x

Omnirez™ 2000 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids • Suitable for low-VOC and • Aerosol hairsprays 0.5 – 8.0%
polymer Copolymer ethanol anhydrous products • Non-aerosol hairsprays solids
• High hold • Mousses
OCH3
• Excellent shine • Pomades, waxes, pastes
CH 2 CH CH CH • Durability
O C C O • Tack-free
HO OCH2CH3 • Good style retention
X • Humidity resistant
• Good propellant compatibility
• Low solution viscosity
Primaflo™ Hydroxypropylcellulose Solution • Soft, flexible films • Low- and no-VOC hair 2.0 – 5.0%
HP22 polymer • High strength films styling gels, mousses and solids
solution • Non-tacky films sprays

Hair Care Overview Guide 6


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
PVP K-15 PVP 100% powder; • Strong, stiff hold • Gels 0.25 – 6.0%
8000 avg. MW • Stabilizes emulsions, • Mousses solids
in Daltons dispersions and suspensions • Styling creams/lotions
• Foam stabilizer • Hair colorants
PVP K-15 30% solution; 0.25 – 6.0%
• Excellent compatibility with • Pomades, waxes, pastes
solution 8000 avg. MW solids
x acrylate thickeners • In addition, PVP K-15
in Daltons
• Shine and PVP K-30 can be used
PVP K-30 100% powder; in hairsprays 0.25 – 6.0%
60,000 avg. MW solids
in Daltons
PVP K-30 30% solution; 0.25 – 6.0%
solution 60,000 avg. MW solids
in Daltons
PVP K-60 PVP 45% solution; • Strong, stiff hold • Gels 0.25 – 6.0%
solution 400,000 avg. • Stabilizes emulsions, • Mousses solids
MW in Daltons dispersions and suspensions • Styling creams/lotions
• Foam stabilizer • Hair colorants
PVP K-90 100% powder; 0.25 – 3.0%
• Excellent compatibility with • Pomades, waxes, pastes
1,300,000 avg. solids
acrylate thickeners
MW in Daltons
• Shine
PVP K-90 20% solution; x 0.25 – 3.0%
solution 1,300,000 avg. solids
MW in Daltons
PVP K-120 100% powder; 0.25 – 3.0%
powder 3,000,000 avg. solids
MW in Daltons
PVP/VA S-630 VP/VA Copolymer White powder • Strong, stiff hold • Gels 0.5 – 6.0%
(60/40‡) • Enhanced high humidity curl • Mousses solids
retention • Styling creams/lotions
• Good propellant compatibility • Hair colorants
• Pomades, waxes, pastes
PVP/VA E-335 50% solution in • Aerosol hairsprays
PVP/VA I-335 ethanol (E) or X Y • Non-aerosol hairsprays
isopropanol (I),
(30/70‡)
PVP/VA E-535 50% solution in • Hydroalcoholic styling
PVP/VA I-535 ethanol (E) or lotions and hair thickeners
isopropanol (I),
(50/50‡)

‡ Ratio (VP/VA)

Hair Care Overview Guide 7


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
PVP/VA E-635 VP/VA Copolymer 50% solution • Strong, stiff hold • Alcohol-free 0.5 – 6.0%
PVP/VA W-635 in aqua (W) or • Enhanced high humidity curl formulas (W) solids
ethanol (E) retention • Gels
(60/40‡) • Good propellant compatibility • Mousses
• Styling creams/lotions
• Hair colorants
X Y • Pomades, waxes, pastes
PVP/VA E-735 50% solution • “Wet look” gels
PVP/VA I-735 in water (W), • Water-based aerosol
PVP/VA W-735 ethanol (E) or mousses
isopropanol (I) • (E) & (I) used in
(70/30‡) anhydrous aerosols
• (W) in alcohol-free
formulas
• Gels
• Mousses
• Styling creams/lotions
• Hair colorants
• Pomades, waxes, pastes
Styleze CC-10 VP/DMAPA Acrylates 10% aqueous • Superior, durable hold • Gels Styling:
polymer1 Copolymer solution • Clear, non-tacky films • Mousses 0.25 – 2.0%
CH3
• Long-lasting curl retention • Styling creams/lotions solids
• Substantive to hair • Pomades, waxes, pastes
• Conditioning and bodying effects • Styling sprays Sham-
• Shine (non-aerosol) poos/Con-
• Manageability • Shampoos ditioners:
(CH2)3 • Clean feel • Conditioners 0.5 – 1.0%
• Thermal protection solids
• Volumizing effects in shampoos
CH3 CH3
• Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte
matrix when used in conjunction
with one of the following rheology
modifiers (Ashland 980/940
Carbomer, RapiThix A-60)

‡ Ratio (VP/VA)

Hair Care Overview Guide 8


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Styleze™ W-10 Polyquaternium-55 10% aqueous • Firm hold • Gels Gels, Mouss-
polymer1 solution • Longevity of style • Mousses es, Lotions:
• High humidity resistance • Styling creams/ 0.25 – 2.0%
Styleze W-17 17% aqueous • High flexibility lotions solids
polymer1 solution • Conditioning • Leave-in
Styleze W-20 20% aqueous • Low-tack conditioners Shampoos/
polymer1 solution • Volume • Pomades, waxes, Condition-
• Color protection pastes ers:
• Thermal protection • Styling sprays 0.25 – 1.0%
• Forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte (non-aerosol) solids
matrix when used in conjunction • Shampoos
with one of the following rheology • Conditioners
modifiers (Ashland 980/940
Carbomer, RapiThix A-60,
Stabileze SM)
Styleze XT3 Water (and) PVM/MA • Frizz reduction • Styling creams/ 4% solids
polymer1 Copolymer (and) Poly- • Enhances thermal styling, straight lotions (13.5% as is)
imide-1 (and) Caprylyl CH3 CH3
or curly • Gels
Glycol • Thermal protection • Mousses
CH3
OCH3
CH2 C HC CH CH2 C HC CH CH2 C HC CH
CH2 CH CH CH
CH3 O C C O CH3 O C C O CH3 O C C O

• Humidity resistance • Lotions


N N O=C C=O
OR OH

H3C CH (CH2)3 z OH OH
x y

• Shine
CH2 R=-H2-CH2CH3

O H3C CH3

H3C CH

CH2

O
m
• Smooth, touchable hair
• Lively, flowable texture
(CH2)2
n
OCH3

• Lasting style hold


• Smooth combing
• Enhances hair’s natural texture
• Improved hair alignment/
manageability

Hair Care Overview Guide 9


Conditioning Polymers
Descrip-
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
tion/ Form
AquaCat 518 Guar Hydroxypropyl- Clear • Light conditioning • Volumizing shampoos 0.2 – 0.4%
cationic solution trimonium Chloride solution • Volumizing • Daily shampoos

AquaCat PF 618 Guar Hydroxypropyl- Clear • Paraben-free • Volumizing shampoos 0.2 – 0.4%
cationic solution trimonium Chloride solution • Light conditioning • Daily shampoos
• Volumizing
Conditioneze™ Polyquaternium-7 8.0 - 10% • Efficient conditioning at low concentrations • Shampoos 0.2 – 0.75%
7MP cationic aqueous CH2 CH • Binds to skin and hair keratin at multiple sites • Conditioners solids
solution solution • Imparts slip and lubricity to formulations • Styling creams
C=O
• Boosts viscosity with increasing concentration • Mousses
N+ Cl- NH2
y • Provides foam stability in shampoos • Hair dyes
x
CH3 CH3 • Permanent wave
solutions
Conditioneze™ 22 Polyquaternium-22 Clear • Compatible with a wide range of anionic, • Shampoos 1.0 – 3.0 %
cationic solution solution nonionic and cationic surfactants • Conditioners
• Stable over a wide pH range (pH 2-12) formulated especially
CH2 CH
• Provides excellent conditioning, wet and dry for damaged and
C O- combability treated hair
O-Na+ • Leaves hair feeling soft and silky and • Colorant products
m
N+ CI- contributes to luster. • Ethnic hair care
H3C CH3 • Leaves a smooth and silky feel in skin care products
n products
• Preserved with methyl and propyl parabens
Conditioneze 37 Polyquaternium-37 Opaque • Provides excellent conditioning and emulsion • Conditioners 2.0 – 4.0 %
PC (E) cationic and propylene liquid stabilization in hair and skin products • Hair masks
solution Glycol Dicaprylate/ • Easy to incorporate into formulations with no • Rheology
Dicaprate and PPG-1 requirements for heating or neutralization
Trideceth-6 • Compatible with nonionic and cationic
surfactants
• Efficiently build viscosity at low usage levels
even at low pH levels
Conditioneze 37 Polyquaternium-37 Opaque • Provides excellent conditioning and emulsion • Conditioners 2.0 – 4.0 %
PC (M) cationic and Mineral Oil and liquid stabilization in hair and skin products • Hair masks
solution PPG-1 Trideceth-6 • Easy to incorporate into formulations with no • Rheology
requirements for heating or neutralization
• Compatible with nonionic and cationic
surfactants
• Efficiently build viscosity at low usage levels
even at low pH levels

Hair Care Overview Guide 10


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Conditioneze Polyquaternium-28 20% aqueous • Excellent wet and dry combing • Shampoos Sham-
NT-20 cationic solution • Builds creamy, rich lather • Conditioners poos/
solution CH3 • Imparts body and manageability without • Styling creams/lotions Condition-
Conditioneze CH2 CH CH2 C build-up • Gels ers:
NT-20-0
N O C=O • Cold processable • Mousses 0.25 –
NH
cationic • Pomades, waxes, pastes 1.0% solids
(CH3)3
solution +
• Permanent wave solutions
CH3 N CH3
(Optiphen™ CI
- Styling:
CH3
preserved) X Y 2.0 – 4.0%
solids

Gafquat™ HSi Polyquaternium-28 20% aqueous • Combines benefits of film-forming polymers • Shampoos Styling:
cationic (and) Dimethicone solution and dimethicone while minimizing drawbacks • Conditioners 1.0 – 2.0%
solution H3C CH3 associated with silicones such as greasy feel • Conditioning treatments solids
and build-up • Gels Sham-
H 3C Si OSi CH3 • Conditioning • Mousses poos/
• Compatible with anionic surfactants • Pomades, waxes, pastes Condition-
H 3C CH3 n • Stabilizes foam ers:
• Good storage stability 0.2 – 1.0%
solids
N-DurHance™ Polyacrylamidopropyl- Clear • High conditioning durability • Leave-on and rinse-off 0.1 – 1.0 %
A-1000 trimonium Chloride solution n
• No build-up conditioners solids
conditioning HN O
• Preservative free • Hair masks
polymer • Compatable with cationics and nonionics • Conditioning sprays
+
CI- N
• Shampoos

N-Hance SP- Acrylamidopropyl • Ethnic hair products 0.1 – 0.2%


100 polymer Trimonium Chloride/ • Highly damaged/bleached/
Acrylamide Copolymer treated hair
• Excellent wet/dry combability in silicone and • Anti-dandruff shampoos
non-silicone formulations • Silicone deposition
CH2 - CH CH2 = CH
• Optical clarity
NH C=O
Powder • Fast detangling of hair
(CH2)3 NH2
• Leaves wet and dry hair noticeably silkier
N-Hance 4572 Guar Hydroxypropyl- H 3C - N + - CH3
n • High deposition of actives (silicone, anti- • Shampoos 0.15 –
CH3 Cl-
conditioning trimonium Chloride m
dandruff, natural oils, etc.) • Conditioners 0.25%
polymer and Acrylamidopropyl
Trimonium Chloride/
Acrylamide Copolymer

Hair Care Overview Guide 11


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
N-Hance™ • Shampoos/2-in-1 0.2 – 0.4%
BF17 cationic shampoos for
guar • Ethnic hair
• Highly damaged/
bleached/treated
hair
• Silicone deposition
• High conditioning, wet and dry combing • Anti-dandruff
• Active deposition aid shampoos
• Efficient silicone deposition
N-Hance 3215 • Softer hair feel • Deep conditioning
cationic guar • Lather richness • Ethnic hair products
• Highly damaged/
bleached/treated hair
• Anti-dandruff
shampoos
• High active
deposition
• Silicone deposition
N-Hance 3196 • Shampoos/2-in-1
cationic guar shampoos for
• Ethnic hair
• Highly damaged/
Guar Hydroxypropyl- bleached/treated
Powder hair
trimonium Chloride
• Silicone deposition
• Anti-dandruff
shampoos
• Medium conditioning, wet and dry combing
N-Hance™ • Damaged/bleached/ 0.1 – 0.4%
• Medium deposition aid
BF13 cationic treated hair
• Efficient silicone deposition
guar • Virgin hair
• Softer hair feel
• Silicone deposition
• Lather richness
• Active deposition
• Daily shampoos
• Anti-dandruff
shampoos
N-Hance CG13 • Damaged/bleached/
cationic guar treated hair
• Virgin hair
• Silicone deposition
• Active deposition
• Daily shampoos 0.2 – 0.4%
N-Hance • Light to medium conditioning, wet and dry combing • Clear systems
CCG45 cationic • Medium deposition aid • Mildly damaged
guar • Efficient silicone deposition virgin hair
• Softer hair feel • Volumizing shampoos
• Lather richness • Daily shampoos
Hair Care Overview Guide 12
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
N-Hance • Low viscosity
3000/3299 • Low conditioning
cationic guar
N-Hance C261 • Low viscosity • Light conditioning 0.2 – 0.4%
Guar Hydroxypropyl-
cationic guar Powder • Low conditioning shampoos
trimonium Chloride
• Self hydrating • Volumizing shampoos
N-Hance • Low viscosity 0.2 – 0.4%
C261N cationic • Low conditioning
guar

Rheology Modifiers
Description/ Use Lev-
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications
Form els
Ashland™ 980/940/ Carbomer Powder • Rheology modifier • Shampoos 0.2 – 0.5%
981/941 Carbomer • Stabilization • Styling products

Benecel™ HPMC Hydroxypropyl Powder • Stabilizes complex surfactant • Shampoos 0.5 – 2.0%
Methylcellulose mixtures • Styling products
• Increases lather density
Benecel E10 HPMC • Increases lather volume
• Increases lather stability
• Thickens soap-based shampoos
• Benecel K200M HPMC thickens
Benecel K200M HPMC hydroalcoholic systems
Klucel™ hydroxy- Hydroxypropylcellulose Powder • Alcohol-soluble thickener • Styling products 0.2 – 1.0%
propylcellulose • Film-former

Natrosol™ Hydroxyethylcellulose Powder • Viscosity builder • Conditioners 0.2 – 1.0%


hydroxyethylcellulose/ • Stabilization • Styling products
Natrosol 250 ME/
HR/HHR

Hair Care Overview Guide 13


Description/ Use
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications
Form Levels
Natrosol™ Plus 330 Cetyl Powder • Provides stability for complex anionic, • Shampoos 0.5 –
CS cetyl modified Hydroxyethylcellulose cationic or nonionic surfactant systems • Conditioners 1.5%
hydroxyethylcellulose • Thickens cationic emulsions • Styling products
• Natrolsol Plus 330 CS can
be used in APG-based
PolySurf ™ 67
systems
cetyl modified
hydroxyethylcellulose

RapiThix™ A-60 Sodium Polyacrylate White milky • Easy-to-use emollient-based dispersion • Emulsifier-free products Up to
polymer (and) Hydrogenated dispersion H H • Provides soft, smooth feel • Hair shine lotions 3.6%
Polydecene (and) (57-59% CH2 CH
CH3(CH2)12(OCH2CH2)nOH
• Can be post-added to adjust viscosity • Anti-frizz products solids
Trideceth-6 solids) CO2Na n
sodium polyacrylate (and)
trideceth-6
after emulsion forms and cools • Styling creams/lotions
• Produces instant crème gels at room • Conditioning creams
hydrogenated polydecene (and)
temperature • Pomades, waxes, pastes
• High shear not required
H H
RapiThix A-100 Sodium Polyacrylate White powder • Fully active white powder offering • Emulsifier-free products 0.2 –
polymer CH2 CH greater formulation flexibility • Hair shine lotions 2.5%
• Provides soft, smooth feelCH3(CH2)12(OCH2CH 2)nOH products
• Anti-frizz
CO2Na n • No pre-set oil phase trideceth-6 • Styling creams/lotions
sodium polyacrylate (and) • Makes oil-free systems possible • Conditioning creams
• High-solids content for higher efficiency • Pomades, waxes, pastes

hydrogenated polydecene (and)

Hair Care Overview Guide 14


Conditioners
Trade Name INCI Name Description/ Form Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Ceraphyl™ 60 cationic Quaternium-22 60% aqueous • Mild cationic with pronounced • Shampoos Up to 4.8%
solution solution substantivity to hair • Conditioners solids
• Provides detangling, anti-static and • Gels
conditioning • Mousses
• Binds moisture in hair care
applications

OH OH HO O CH3
H2C CH CH CH CH C NH (CH2)3 N CH2 CH2OH Cl
OH OH CH3

Ceraphyl 65 cationic Quaternium-26 (and) 55% solution • Mild cationic with pronounced • Shampoos Up to 5% (rinse-
solution Propylene Glycol substantivity to hair • Conditioners off application
• Provides detangling, anti-static and only)
conditioning
• Cationic emulsification

O CH3

R C NH CH2 CH2 CH2 N CH2 CH OH Cl

CH3

R= Mink fatty acids

Ceraphyl 70 cationic Quaternium-70 (and) 54% solution • Mild cationic • Shampoos 1.0% solids
solution Propylene Glycol • Pronounced substantivity to skin • Conditioners for thermal
and hair • Mousses protection
• Provides detangling, anti-static and • Cream gels
conditioning • Pomades, waxes, Up to 0.7%
• Cationic emulsification pastes solids for rinse-
• Thermal protection from curling • Permanent wave off applications
O CH3 O irons & blow dryers solutions
C17H35 C NH (CH2)3 N CH2 C O C14H29 Cl
CH3

Hair Care Overview Guide 15


Trade Name INCI Name Description/ Form Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
ProLipid™ 161 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) White to cream • Composed of vegetal-based • Shampoos 1.67 – 6.67%
lamellar gel1 Behenyl colored flakes amphiphilic compounds • Conditioners by weight
Alcohol (and) • Lamellar gel structurizing • Styling creams/ when used for
Hydroxyethyl + ingredient that enhances lotions conditioning
O CH3
Cetearamidopropyldi- CI formulation texture and stability • Mousses
RC NH (CH2)3 N CH3
monium Chloride • Provides moisturization and • Treatment 4.0 – 6.0%
CH2 CH2OH conditioning to hair applications by weight
• Ease of wet and dry combing targeting when used as
CH3 (CH2)20 CH2 OH and CH3 (CH2)16 CH2 OH CH3 (CH2)14 CH2 OH
• Makes hair feels soft and smooth damaged and a structuring
(Behenyl Alcohol) (Cetearyl Alcohol)
• Binder chemically agent
• Thickener treated hair
• Opacifying agent • Hair colorants
• Anti-static • Pomades, waxes,
• Substantive over a broad pH range pastes
• Permanent wave
solutions
• Hair relaxers
Zenix™ 4617 Oleth-5 Phosphate Liquid • Silicone-like performance without • Shampoos 2.0 – 4.0%
phosphate ester P
silicone when combined with • 2-in-1 shampoos
surfactant R x cationic guar

Vincience™ BiotHAIRapy™ Biofunctionals


Trade Name INCI Name Description Benefits
Capauxein™ Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin A corn extract inspired by • Associated with ex vivo increase of proteins related to the improvement of communication and cell signaling
biofunctional (and) Hydrolyzed Corn the “Hair Fullness System™” such as laminin-5, β1 integrin and fibronectin
Protein critical for hair density • Associated with ex vivo increase of proteins involved in the maintenance of active cell cycle (p63, ki67)
• Associated ex vivo with an improved appearance of hair length (on scalp model)

Chromafend™ Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin A flax seed extract inspired • Associated in vitro, ex vivo with an increase of tyrosinase (tyrosinase is involved in melanin production)
biofunctional (and) Hydrolyzed Linseed by the “Hair Melanin • Associated with the in vitro increase in TRP-1 (TRP-1 is known to participate in melanin synthesis)
Extract System™” to help hair • Associated with in vitro increase in Pmel 17 (Pmel 17 is associated with favorable conditions for
preserve its original color melanin synthesis)
• Associated with an in vitro increase of MITF (MITF is known to regulate melanin synthesis)
• Associated with an in vitro increase of c-kit (c-kit is associated with melanin process)
• Associated with an in vitro increase of PAR-2 (PAR-2 helps transfer melanin into keratinocytes)
• Ex vivo, Chromafend is associated with an increase of the melanin in the hair cortex

Hair Care Overview Guide 16


Trade Name INCI Name Description Benefits
Dynagen™ Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin A yeast extract inspired by • Consumer-perceivable benefit for stronger, thicker, healthier hair feel (in vivo)
biofunctional (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast the “Hair Keratin System™” • Associated with ex vivo increase in key protein markers, keratin 14, keratin 17, keratin 71, trichohyalin, all of
Protein for stronger and healthier which are associated with minimization of hair fall
looking hair • Associated with ex vivo increase in collagen I
• Associated with ex vivo increase in collagen IV and CD34 (both of these compounds are associated with healthy
appearance of the hair)
Procataline™ Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin A pea extract inspired by • Associated ex vivo with an increase of catalase enzyme expression (a decrease in catalase activity is associated
biofunctional (and) Pisum Sativum (pea) the “Hair Detox System™” for with environmental damage and hair aging)
Extract healthier, younger looking • Associated ex vivo with a maintenace of p63 expression in stress conditions (p63 is associated with cell
hair regeneration and is shown to be related to hair growth)
• Associated with a decrease of caspase-3 expression in stress conditions (caspases play a critical role in
apoptosis) (ex vivo)
• Ex vivo, Procataline is associated with reduced signs of aging induced by H2O2 stress, such as maintenance of
the melanin in the hair cortex
Protectagen™ Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin A rice extract inspired by the • Associated with an increase in stem cells markers, key to the maintenance of hair growth capital (keratin 15,
biofunctional (and) Hydrolyzed Rice “Hair Stemness System™” to α6-Integrin, β-Catenin and p63) (ex vivo)
Protein mitigate stress and preserve • May help preserve hair follicle against harmful UV damage, evidenced by the lower expression of p53
hair growth capital markers (ex vivo)
• Associated ex vivo with an improved appearance of hair length
Note: In the U.S. hair growth and hair loss prevention claims fall under an OTC drug monograph 21CFR Part 310. Use of these claims requires a New Drug Application. Similar restrictions may exist in other parts of the world.

Hair care product categories


Hair Aging at Hair Hair UV Oxidative
Trade Name INCI Name Hair Color
the Roots Strength Nourishment Stress Stress
Capauxein™ biofunctional Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed
Corn Protein l

Chromafend™ biofunctional Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed


Linseed Extract l l

Dynagen™ biofunctional Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed


Yeast Protein l l l

Procataline™ biofunctional Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Pisum Sativum


(pea) Extract l l l

Protectagen™ biofunctional Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed


Rice Protein l l

Note: In the U.S. hair growth and hair loss prevention claims fall under an OTC drug monograph 21CFR Part 310. Use of these claims requires a New Drug Application. Similar restrictions may exist in other parts of the world.

Hair Care Overview Guide 17


UV Protectants
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Escalol™ HP DimethylPABAmidopr- 100% active • Protects hair from UV light • Gels 0.1 – 0.5%
UV filter1 opyl Laurdimonium powder • Substantive • Mousses solids
Tosylate + - • Conditions hair giving it body and • Styling sprays
Creamy waxy CH3
O
CH3 O
O
S O
manageability • Serums
solid N C NH (CH2)3 N • Provides detangling and anti-static • Hair treatment
CH3 CH3
properties to hair • Pomades, waxes,
Escalol HP 610 DimethylPABAmidopr- C12H25 CH3
• Easy to handle pastes
UV filter1 opyl Laurdimonium
• Broad raw material compatibility • Conditioners
Tosylate (and) Water (and)
Propylene Glycol Stearate

Preservatives
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Germaben™ II Propylene Glycol (and) Clear liquid • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Diazolidinyl Urea (and) OH O
gram-positive and gram-negative • Conditioners
H H
Methylparaben (and) HO N N O OR
bacteria, yeast and mold • Mousses
Germaben II-E Propylparaben O N N R=CH3
• Effective over broad pH range: • Creams
OH

preservative OH
HO CH2-CH2-CH3
3.0 – 7.5 • Pomades, waxes,
O Paraben(s)
pastes
Germall™ 115 Imidazolidinyl Urea White, free- X X
X
• Very effective against gram-positive • Shampoos 0.2 – 0.6%
preservative flowing HN N
C
O
X and gram-negative bacteria • Conditioners
X
hygroscopic O N CH 2 HN N O • Acts synergistically with other
C
powder N preservatives
O O N X
X
N • Effective over broad pH range: 3 – 9
X O

Germall II Diazolidinyl Urea White, free- OH • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.1 – 0.3%
preservative flowing H H gram-positive and gram-negative • Conditioners
hygroscopic HO N N O bacteria
powder • Synergistic with other preservatives
O N N OH • Effective over broad pH range: 3 – 9
OH O

Germall™ Plus Diazolidinyl Urea (and) White, free- H H


OH • Broad-spectrum antimicrobial • Shampoos 0.05 – 0.2%
preservative1 Iodopropynyl flowing HO N N O activity • Conditioners
Butylcarbamate hygroscopic O N N OH • Effective over broad pH range: • Gels
powder OH O 3–8 • Styling creams/
O lotions
I C CH 2O NH

† For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

Hair Care Overview Guide 18


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Liquid Germall Propylene Glycol (and) Clear liquid • Broad-spectrum antimicrobial • Shampoos 0.1 – 0.5%
Plus preservative1 Diazolidinyl Urea (and) activity • Conditioners
Iodopropynyl • Effective over broad pH range: • Gels
Butylcarbamate H H
OH
3–8 • Styling creams/
HO N N O

O N N
lotions
OH

OH O

I C CH 2O NH

LiquaGard™ Butylene Glycol Liquid • Effective fungicide • Shampoos 0.1 – 0.2%‡


preservative (and) Iodopropynyl • Works over wide pH range: 4 – 9 • Conditioners
Butylcarbamate • Compatible with broad range of • Styling creams/
raw materials including surfactants lotions
O
and proteins • Hair colorants
HOCH2CH2CHCH2 I C CCH2O C NH(CH2)3CH3
• Gels
OH

LiquaPar™ ME Phenoxyethanol (and) Colorless to O


OH • Provides similar efficiency to • Styling creams/ 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Methylparaben (and) light brown HO
OH traditional paraben combinations lotions
(Available in EU, Ethylparaben (and) solution • Effective over broad pH range: • Anhydrous systems
LA, AP) Caprylyl Glycol O O
CH3
O 3.0 – 7.5
O • Global use†
HO

OH

LiquaPar™ MEP Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear, yellowish • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.3 – 1.0%
preservative Methylparaben (and) solution O bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners
OH
(sold as Ethylparaben (and) • Effective over broad pH range: • Anhydrous systems
Rokonsal™ MEP Propylparaben 3.0 – 7.5
O
preservative in • Global use†
OR
EU) R=CH3
CH2-CH3
HO CH2-CH2-CH3

† For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

Hair Care Overview Guide 19


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
LiquaPar Oil Isopropylparaben (and) Clear liquid • Solvent-free • Anhydrous systems 0.4 – 0.8%
preservative Isobutylparaben • Effective against gram-positive
(and) Butylparaben O bacteria, yeast and mold
OR • Effective over broad pH range:
R=CH(CH3)2
(CH2)3CH3
3.0 – 7.5
HO CH2CH(CH3)2 • Global use†

LiquaPar Optima Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear liquid • Broad-spectrum activity against • Styling creams/lotions 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Methylparaben (and) O
OH bacteria, yeast and mold • Anhydrous systems
Isopropylparaben (and) Phenoxyethanol • Effective over broad pH range:
O
Isobutylparaben (and) OR 3.0 – 7.5
Butylparaben • Global use†
R=CH3
CH(CH3)2
HO CH2CH(CH3)2
Paraben(s) (CH2)3CH3

LiquaPar PE Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear liquid • Broad-spectrum activity against • Styling creams/lotions 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Isopropylparaben O
R
bacteria, yeast and mold • Anhydrous systems
(and) Isobutylparaben O O
OH
• Effective over broad pH range:
(and) Butylparaben 3.0 – 7.5
HO
R=Isopropyl
Phenoxyethanol
• Global use†
Isobutyl
n-Butyl

LiquaPar PN Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear liquid O • Broad-spectrum activity against • Styling creams/lotions 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Methylparaben (and) O
OH OR bacteria, yeast and mold • Anhydrous systems
R=CH3
Ethylparaben (and) CH2-CH2-CH3 • Effective over broad pH range:
CH2CH3
Propylparaben (and) HO (CH2)3CH3 3.0 – 7.5
Butylparaben • Global use†
Optiphen 200 Propylene Glycol (and) Clear liquid • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Diazolidinyl Urea (and) gram-positive and gram-negative • Conditioners
Methylparaben bacteria, yeast and mold • Gels
OH
H H O
HO N N O
OCH2 CH3CHCH2OH
• Effective over broad pH range: • Mousses
O N N
3.0 – 7.5 • Creams
OH R=CH3 OH
HO CH2
OH O
• Pomades, waxes,
pastes

Optiphen™ Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear to pale • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.75 – 1.5%
preservative1 Caprylyl Glycol straw liquid bacteria, yeast and mold – • Conditioners
additional fungicidal protection • Gels
O
[EU: Colorless OH OH may be needed in difficult • Mousses
to light yellow OH formulations • Styling creams/lotions
solution] • Effective over broad pH range: • Pomades, waxes,
4–8 pastes
• Global use†

† For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

Hair Care Overview Guide 20


Description/ Use
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications
Form Levels
Optiphen Plus Phenoxyethanol (and) Clear to pale • Broad spectrum activity against bacteria, • Mousses 0.75 –
preservative1 Caprylyl Glycol straw liquid O yeast and mold • Shampoos 1.5%
OH OH
(and) Sorbic Acid • Ideal for slightly acidic personal care • Conditioners
OH
[EU: Colorless products • Pomades, waxes, pastes
CO2H
to light yellow • Effective pH range up to 6.0
solution] • Global use†
H 3C

Optiphen BD Benzyl Alcohol (and) Colorless to • Microbiostatic spectrum of activity against • Styling creams/lotions 0.3 –
preservative Benzoic Acid (and) light yellow bacteria, mold and yeast • Shampoos 1.0%
O O O
(Available in EU, Dehydroacetic Acid solution • Effective up to pH 6.4 • Conditioners
LA, AP) OH OH • Global use†
• Nature-identical combination
O O
• Ecocert-compliant

Optiphen BSB-N Benzyl Alcohol (and) Colorless light • Effective against gram-positive and • Shampoos 0.3 –
preservative Glycerin (and) Benzoic brown liquid gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners 1.0%
COOH
(sold as Rokonsal™ Acid (and) Sorbic Acid CO2H • Effective up to pH 5.4 • Gels
658-N preservative OH • Global use† • Mousses
in EU) H3 C • Nature-identical combination • Styling creams/lotions
• Ecocert-compliant • Pomades, waxes, pastes

Optiphen BSP (Sold Phenoxyethanol (and) Colorless light • Effective against gram-positive and gram- • Shampoos 0.3 –
as Rokonsal BSP Propylene Glycol (and) brown liquid negative bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners 1.0%
preservative in EU) Benzoic Acid (and) • Effective up to pH 5.4 • Gels
O COOH
Sorbic Acid OH
CO2H
• Global use† • Mousses
H3 C
• Nature-identical combination • Styling creams/lotions
• Pomades, waxes, pastes
HO
OH

Optiphen BSB-W Benzyl Alcohol (and) Colorless light • Effective against gram-positive and gram- • Shampoos 0.3 –
preservative Water (aqua) (and) brown liquid negative bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners 1.0%
(Available in EU, Sodium O O-Na
+

O
• Effective up to pH 5.4 • Gels
LA, AP) Benzoate (and) OH
+
• Global use† • Mousses
O K
Potassium Sorbate • Nature-identical combination • Styling creams/lotions
• Ecocert-compliant • Pomades, waxes, pastes
Optiphen MIT Methylisothiazolinone Colorless to • Mainly effective against gram-positive and • Shampoos 0.05 –
preservative and Water (aqua) light yellow gram-negative bacteria • Conditioners 0.1%
solution O
• Effective between pH 2 – 10 • Gels
• Global use† • Mousses
S N • Styling creams/lotions
• Pomades, waxes, pastes

† For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

Hair Care Overview Guide 21


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Optiphen™ MIT Methylisothiazolinone Colorless to • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.05 – 0.2%
Plus preservative2 (and) Phenethyl light yellow bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners
Alcohol (and) PPG-2- solution • Effective between pH 2 –10 • Gels
Methyl Ether and water OH
• Global use† • Mousses
(Aqua) O
O
• Styling creams/
S N O
OH lotions
• Pomades, waxes,
pastes

Optiphen Methylisothiazolinone Colorless to • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.05 – 0.3%


MIT Ultra (and) Phenylpropanol light yellow bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners
preservative2 (and) Propylene Glycol solution • Effective between pH 2 – 10 • Gels
(and) Water (aqua) • Global use† • Mousses
OH
O
• Styling creams/
S N

CH3CHCH2OH
lotions
OH • Pomades, waxes,
pastes

Optiphen ND Phenoxyethanol (and) Light yellow to • Microbiostatic spectrum of activity • Shampoos 0.3 – 1.0%
preservative Benzoic Acid (and) yellow solution against bacteria, mold and yeast • Conditioners
O
(Sold as Rokonsal Dehydroacetic Acid COOH O • Effective up to pH 6.4 • Creams
O
OH C CH3
ND preservative • Global use† • Pomades, waxes,
in EU) H3C O O
pastes

Rokonsal™ LJ-1 Benzyl Alcohol Colorless to • Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.1 – 0.4%†
preservative (and) 2-Bromo-2- light brown bacteria, with enhanced • Conditioners
(Available in EU, Nitropropane-1,3-Diol solution -
O
+
O I performance against fungi and • Styling creams/
N
LA, AP) (and) Iodopropynyl yeast lotions
OH
OH
Br O
Butylcarbamate (and) • Fast-acting • Pomades, waxes,
O N
Deceth-8 (and) PPG-2 HO H • Effective up to pH 7.0 max. pastes
Methyl Ether • Global use†

Rokonsal SE-2 2-Bromo-2-Nitropro- Colorless to -


O O
• Broad-spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.1 – 0.3%
preservative pane-1,3-Diol (and) yellow solution N+ OH O
bacteria, fungi and yeast • Conditioners
O
(Available in EU, Ethylparaben (and) Cet- • Fast-acting • Styling creams/
Br

HO
LA, AP) rimonium Bromide (and) HO • Effective up to pH 7.0 max. lotions
+
PPG-2 Methyl Ether N Br- • Global use†

Rokonsal KS-4 Benzyl Alcohol (and) Colorless to • Broad spectrum activity against • Shampoos 0.05 – 0.12%
preservative Methylchloroisothiazoli- yellow solution Cl
Me
bacteria, yeast and mold • Conditioners
S
(Available in EU, none (and) OH N N
• Fast-acting
O
LA, AP) Methylisothiazolinone O
S • Effective up to pH 8.0 max.
(and) Propylene Glycol • Global use†

† For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

Hair Care Overview Guide 22


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Suttocide™ A Sodium Clear to pale O • Broad-spectrum preservation • Shampoos 0.5 – 1.0%
preservative Hydroxymethylglycinate yellow solution H • Long history of use for efficacy • Conditioners
C O- Na+
H C • Fast-acting • Gels
• Effective pH: 3.5 – 12 • Styling creams/
HN OH • Global use† lotions
C
H H

Aromatics with Antimicrobial Properties


Trade Name INCI Name Description/ Form Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Conarom™ P Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Nature-identical fragrance • Aromatic ingredient that provides broad-spectrum • Shampoos 0.3 – 2.0%
aromatic Caprylyl Glycol (and) Trideceth-8 additive in glycolic solution protection • Conditioners
• Mild rose-like aroma • Gels
• Complements aroma of final product • Mousses
• Effective pH range: 4.0 – 8.0 • Styling creams/lotions
• Pomades, waxes, pastes

Opacifiers/Pearlizers
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Antara™ 430 Styrene/VP Copolymer Fluid, milky • Opacifier • Conditioners Up to 1.0%
polymer white emulsion; CH2 CH CH2 CH • Forms strong, light-stable films • Acid rinses solids
(Sold as 40% solids with high water resistance • Permanent wave
N
Polectron™ in the O • High acid tolerance solutions
USA) • Dye acceptor in hair color • Gels
preparations • Hair colorants
x y
• Cream developers
Cerasynt™ IP Glycol Stearate (and) White to cream O • Imparts pearlescence and opacity • Shampoos Up to 2.0%
stearate ester Stearamide AMP colored flakes CH3(CH2)16C OCH2CH2OH • Styling creams/ solids
lotions

O CH3

CH3(CH2)16C NHCCH2OH

CH3

Cerasynt PA Propylene Glycol Stearate White to cream • Imparts pearlescence and opacity • Shampoos Up to 2.0%
stearate ester colored flakes O OH • Styling creams/ solids
lotions
C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH3

Hair Care Overview Guide 23


Emulsifiers
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Cerasynt™ 945 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Flake O OH • Nonionic primary emulsifier • Hair straighteners 1.0 – 3.0%
stearate ester Laureth-23 C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH2 OH • High pH tolerance • Styling creams/
CH3 CH CHCONCH2 CH3
• Forms opaque gels with mineral oil lotions
CH3
• Conditioners

Cerasynt SD Glyceryl Stearate Flake • Nonionic auxiliary emulsifier • Styling creams/ 0.25 – 3.0%
stearate ester • Emulsion stabilizer lotions
O OH • Conditioners
C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH2 OH

Emollients
Description/Form

Pomades , waxes, pastes


Use Level
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits

Shine Products

Conditioners
Shampoos

Hairsprays
Styling
Esters Based on Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Ceraphyl™ 31 Lauryl Lactate Liquid O • Plasticizing and de-tackifying agent 0.3 -
ester • Highly effective emolliency with 5.0%
CH3CHC OCH2(CH2)10CH3 lubricity l l l
• Improves product slip upon application
OH

Ceraphyl 41 C12-15 Alkyl Liquid O • Effective de-tackifying agent 0.3 -


ester Lactate • Spreads easily when applied 5.0%
CH3CHC OR • Dry initial feel with non-oily after-feel l
OH • Provides viscosity building and lather
R = C12-15 Mixed Alcohols creaminess to shampoos

Ceraphyl 50 Myristyl Soft • Imparts lubricity 0.3 -


ester Lactate solid O 5.0%
CH3CHC OCH2(CH2)12CH3 l l l

OH

Hair Care Overview Guide 24


Description/Form

Pomades , waxes, pastes


Use Level
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits

Shine Products

Conditioners
Shampoos

Hairsprays
Styling
Light, Dry Feeling Esters
Ceraphyl™ 140A Isodecyl Liquid H3C O • Excellent spreadability with dry initial feel 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Oleate • Drier feel than Ceraphyl 140 due to branching l
C8H17 C O C C7H17 CH CH C8H17 • Very little residual after-feel
Ceraphyl 230 Diisopropyl Liquid • Effective plasticizer and de-tackifier 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Adipate CH3 O O CH3 • Reduces greasiness of high-oil products
CH O C (CH2)4 C O CH
• Spreads rapidly
l l l l
• Imparts dry initial feel with little to no residual
CH3 CH3 after-feel
• Coupling agent for hydroalcoholic preparations
General Purpose Esters
Ceraphyl 368M Ethylhexyl Liquid O • Non-occlusive 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Palmitate • Non-oily after-feel
CH3 (CH2)3 CH CH2 O C (CH2)14 CH3 • Suitable mineral oil replacement for beach l
CH2CH3 protection formulations
• No impact on absorbance curves of UV actives
Ceraphyl 494 Isocetyl Liquid O • All-purpose lubricant which imparts dry, 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Stearate CH3 (CH2)16 C O CH2 CH C8H17 emollient feel l l l l
C6H13

Esters that Impart Body


Ceraphyl 424 Myristyl My- Waxy • Enhances spreadability and reduces drag upon 0.3 - 5.0%
ester ristate (and) solid O product application
l l l
Myristyl CH3 (CH2)12 C 0 (CH2)13 CH3 • Liquifies upon contact with the body
Laurate
Esters with Elegant Feel
Ceraphyl 55 Tridecyl Neo- Liquid O CH3 • Imparts elegant, light, non-oily feel 0.3 - 5.0%
ester pentanoate H27C13 O C C CH3 l
CH3

Ceraphyl 375 Isostearyl Liquid C8H17 CH2 O CH3 • Improves product spreadability 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Neopen- HC CH2 O C C CH3 and playtime l
tanoate C6H13 CH2 CH3 • Imparts elegant, light, non-oily feel

Hair Care Overview Guide 25


Description/Form

Pomades , waxes, pastes


Use Level
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits

Shine Products

Conditioners
Shampoos

Hairsprays
Styling
Ceraphyl™ ODS Octyldodecyl Liquid O • Imparts dry initial feel, luxurious mid-feel 0.3 - 5.0%
ester Stearate with a silky after-feel
CH3(CH2)16C OCH2CH(CH2)9CH3 • Enhances product spreadability l l l
CH2(CH2)6CH3 • Exceptional powder binding properties
when blended with Ceraphyl 847 (1:1)
Esters for Maximum After-Feel
Ceraphyl 791 Isocetyl Stearoyl Liquid O C6H13 O C6H13 • Imparts dry initial feel with lubricious 0.3 - 5.0%
ester (complies to Stearate after-feel
C17H35 C O CH (CH2)10 C O CH2 CH l
organic certifica- C8H17
• Long-lasting emollient
tions, like Ecocert)
Ceraphyl 847 Octyldodecyl Liquid O O
• Offers dry initial feel with long-lasting 0.3 - 5.0%
ester (complies to Stearoyl Stearate CH2 O C (CH2)10 CH O C C17H35
cushiony, rich after-feel
organic certifica- • Exceptional pigment dispersing and l l
CH C8H17 C6H13
tions, like Ecocert) binding properties when blended with
C10H21
Ceraphyl ODS (1:1)
Esters with Natural Appeal
Orchid™ Caprylic/Capric Liquid O • Enhances product spreadability 0.3 - 5.0%
Complex OS Triglyceride CH2 OCR
O
• Offers smooth, light, silky after-feel
(and) Cymbidium CH OCR1 l
Grandiflorum O
CH2 OCR11 R = Caprylic/Capric Acid
Flower Extract
Esters for Rinse-Off Products
Ceraphyl Castoryl Maleate Liquid • Offers clinically-proven moisturization in 0.3 - 5.0%
O O

O O OH
RMT ester O O OH
rinse-off products l
O O OH

Esters with Solubilizing Capability


X-Tend™ Phenethyl Benzo- Liquid • High solubilizing capacity 0.3 - 5.0%
226 ester ate O • Shine enhancement
• Excellent skin feel
O • Increases the critical wavelength and the l l
UVA/UVB ratio
• Boosts polymeric shine in hairsprays

Hair Care Overview Guide 26


Lubricants
Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Lubrajel™** II XD Glycerin and Glyceryl Clear gels • Superior moisturization • Hair treatment gels 2 – 25%
hydrogel Polyacrylate • Imparts an inviting after-feel and
Carboxyvinyl
slip
Glycerin backbone • Excellent lubricity, spreadability
and emolliency
Lubrajel** CG Glycerin and Glyceryl 5 – 25%
• Broad formulation compatibility
hydrogel Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
and long shelf life
polymer and Propylene
• Good auxiliary thickening,
Glycol
Theoretical structure: suspending power and viscosity
Lubrajel** DV Glycerin and Glyceryl Glyceryl Acetate/Acrylic Acid enhancement 5 – 25%
hydrogel Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co- Copolymer • Water-soluble
polymer and Propylene • Cold-processable
Glycol
Lubrajel** MS Glycerin and Glyceryl 2 – 25%
hydrogel Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer and Propylene
Glycol
Lubrajel** Natural Glycerin, Beta-Glucan, Very pale • Multifunctional ingredient 0.3 – 50%
skin conditioning gel Algin, Xanthan Gum yellow viscous providing sensory and stabilization
gel benefits
• Consumer pleasing aesthetics with
a natural ingredient
• Conforms to Ecocert natural and
organic cosmetic standard
Lubrajel** NP Glycerin and Glyceryl 2 – 25%
hydrogel Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer
Lubrajel** Oil Glycerin and Glyceryl 0.2 – 5%
hydrogel Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer and Propylene
Glycol and PVM/MA
Copolymer
Lubrajel** PF Glycerin and Glyceryl 5 – 25%
hydrogel (Paraben- Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
free version of polymer
Lubrajel CG)
Lubrajel** TW Propylene Glycol and 2 – 25%
hydrogel Glycerin and Glyceryl
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer
*Also available in paraben-free version
**Lubrajel and Lubrasil are registered trademarks of United-Guardian, Inc.

Hair Care Overview Guide 27


Description/
Trade Name INCI Name Structure Features and Benefits Applications Use Levels
Form
Lubrajel™** WA Propylene Glycol (and) Clear gels • Superior moisturization • Hair treatment gels 25 – 25%
hydrogel Glycerin (and) Glyceryl • Imparts an inviting after-feel and
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co- slip
Carboxyvinyl
polymer (and) Poloxamer Glycerin backbone • Excellent lubricity, spreadability
184 and emolliency
• Broad formulation compatibility
and long shelf life
• Good auxiliary thickening,
Theoretical structure: suspending power and viscosity
Lubrasil™** Glycerin and Glyceryl Glyceryl Acetate/Acrylic Acid enhancement 5 – 25%
microemulsion Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co- Copolymer • Water-soluble
polymer and Polysorbate • Cold-processable
20 and Cyclopentasilox-
ane and Propylene Glycol
and Dimethiconol

Lubrasil** II DM Glycerin (and) Glyceryl 2.5 – 10%


microemulsion Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer (and) Laureth-23
(and) Dimethicone

Lubrasil** II SB Glycerin (and) Glyceryl 3 – 15%


microemulsion Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Co-
polymer (and) Laureth-23
(and) Cyclopentasiloxane
(and) Dimethiconol

**Lubrajel and Lubrasil are registered trademarks of United-Guardian, Inc.

Hair Care Overview Guide 28


Encapsulates
Trade Name INCI Name Form Product Image Average Size Wall Type
Captivates™ Aqua (Water) (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Blue beads in clear/ 500-750 microns Thin
HC0001 Butter) (and) CI 77007 Ultramarines (and) Gelatin hazy liquid
encapsulate (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) CI 77891 (Titanium
Dioxide) (and) Diazolidinyl Urea

Captivates Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) (and) Aqua Silver beads in clear/ 1250 microns Thick
HC0002 (Water) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum hazy liquid
encapsulate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Prunus Persica
(Peach) Kernel Oil (and) Mica (and) CI 77891
(Titanium Dioxide) (and) Diazolidinyl Urea

Captivates Aqua (Water) (and) Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate Green beads in clear/ 1000 microns Thick
HC0003 (and) Cholesteryl Nonanoate (and) hazy liquid
encapsulate Cholesteryl Chloride (and) Cholesteryl Benzoate
(not available (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and)
in NA) Diazolidinyl Urea
Captivates Aqua (Water) (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Silver beads in clear 750-1000 Thin
HC0004 Seed Oil (and) Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil liquid microns
encapsulate (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Mica
(and) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)

Captivates Dimethicone (and) Aqua (Water) (and) Gelatin (and) Pink beads in clear/ 1250-1500 Thick
HC0005 Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Mica (and) CI 77891 hazy liquid microns
encapsulate (Titanium Dioxide) (and) CI 73360 (Red 30) (and) Tin
Oxide (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Phenoxyethanol
(and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroyacetic Acid
Captivates Aqua (Water) (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Orange beads in 1250 microns Thin
HC0006 Butter) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) clear/hazy liquid
encapsulate Polyester 3 (and) CI 45370 (Orange 5)

Captivates Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil (and) Aqua Yellow beads in clear 1250-1500 Thick
HC0007 (Water) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum liquid microns
encapsulate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Mica (and) CI 77891
(Titanium Dioxide) (and) CI 47000 (Yellow 11) (and)
Xanthan Gum (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic
Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid
Captivates Dimethicone (and) Aqua (Water) (and) Gelatin Glittery beads in 1250-1500 Thick
HC0008 (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Polyethylene clear/hazy liquid microns
encapsulate Terephthalate/Acrylates Copolymer (and) Xanthan
(not available Gum (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and)
in NA) Dehydroxyacetic Acid

Hair Care Overview Guide 29


Trade Name INCI Name Form Product Image Average Size Wall Type
Captivates™ Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) (and) Blue/green beads in 1500 microns Thick
HC0009 Aqua (Water) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal clear liquid
encapsulate Gum (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Ethylhexyl
Methoxycinnamate (and) CI 77891 (Titanium
Dioxide) (and) Mica (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and)
CI 77288 (Chromium Oxide Green) (and) CI 61565
(Green 6) (and) CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide) (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben
Captivates Aqua (Water) (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Red beads in clear 1250 microns Thin
HC0012 Butter) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum gel
encapsulate (and) Mica (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil (and) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) CI 73360
(Red 30) (and) CI 75470 (Carmine) (and) Benzoic Acid
(and) Dehydroacetic Acid
Captivates Mixture Pink beads in approx. 1200 Alginate/Agar
GL 7661 clear liquid microns
encapsulate

Captivates Mixture Gold beads in approx. 1300 Carrageenan/


GL 7615 clear liquid microns Agar
encapsulate

Captivates Mixture Green beads in approx. 1000 Alginate/Agar


GL 7542 clear liquid microns
encapsulate

Captivates Mixture Red beads in approx. 1000 Alginate/


GL 7539 clear liquid microns Chitosan
encapsulate

Captivates Mixture Green beads in approx. 700 Agar


GL 7339 clear liquid microns
encapsulate

All ISP Captivates HC and GL can be customized in terms of size, color and ingredients

Hair Care Overview Guide 30


Global Headquarters

Ashland Inc.
50 East RiverCenter Blvd. Europe
Covington, KY 41012 USA Barcelona, Spain
Tel: +1 859 815 3333 Tel: +34 93 298 0700
Fax: +34 93 298 0705
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
8145 Blazer Drive Asia Pacific
Wilmington, DE 19808 USA Singapore
Tel: +1 877 546 2782 Tel: +65 6775 5366
Fax: +65 6775 5433
Regional Sales Offices Shanghai, P.R. China
North America Tel: +86 21 6090 6606
Bridgewater, NJ USA Fax: +86 21 6090 6699
Tel: +1 800 505 8984
Middle East/Africa/India
Latin America Turkey
São Paulo, Brazil Tel: +90 216 538 08 00
Tel: +55 11 3649 0454 Fax: +90 216 538 08 80
+55 11 3649 0450

personalcare@ashland.com

ashland.com
® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries
™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries
© 2015, Ashland
PC-11502.4

The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own
discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. Certain end uses of
®
these products may be regulated pursuant to rules or regulations governing medical devices, drug uses, or pesticidal or antimicrobial uses. It is the end user’s

responsibility to determine the applicability of such regulations to its products.
*
©
All statements, information, and data presented herein are believed to be accurate and reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee of fitness for a particular
purpose, or representation, express or implied, for which seller assumes legal responsibility. No freedom to use any patent owned by Ashland, its subsidiaries, or
its suppliers is to be inferred.

Footnotes
1 - Patented technology
2 - Patent pending

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