root to tip solutions

—
hair care product guide
contents
—
fixatives styling polymers ............3–10

fiber strengthening repair ............... 11

conditioning polymers ...............11–14

rheology modifiers ..................... 14–15

conditioners ...................................... 16

biofunctionals..............................17–18

preservatives .............................. 19–23

aromatics with
antimicrobial properties .................24

opacifiers/pearlizers ........................24

emulsifiers ..........................................25

emollients ....................................25–27

lubricants ....................................28–29

hair protectants ...............................29

encapsulates ..............................30–31

2
fixatives
styling polymers
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/
advantage™ Dimethylaminoethyl
LC-A polymer Methacrylate o strong, durable hold
Copolymer o stiff feel with good flexibility
o superior high humidity curl retention at
37% solids in o aerosol hairsprays
low solids level 0.5–4.0% solids
Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/ ethanol o non-aerosol hairsprays
advantage™ o excellent shine
Dimethylaminoethyl o high propellant tolerance
LC-E polymer
Methacrylate CH 3
o no neutralization required
(available in
Copolymer (and) CH 2 CH CH 2 CH CH 2 C
EU only)
Lauryl Pyrrolidone N O N O C=O
O
(CH 2 ) 2
x y
N
o strong, durable hold
advantage ™
CH 3 CH 3 o stiff feel with good flexibility
powder z
o excellent high humidity curl retention at o gels
S polymer Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/
low solids level o mousses
Dimethylaminoethyl
o excellent shine o hairsprays 0.5–4.0% solids
Methacrylate
o high propellant tolerance, formulates o pomades, waxes,
Copolymer
into both high and low VOC products pastes
advantage™ o no neutralization required
30% aqueous
S solution o enables alcohol-free claims
solution
polymer

o medium hold
advantage™ VA/Butyl Maleate/ clear pale o excellent high humidity
o aerosol hairsprays
plus Isobornyl Acrylate yellow curl retention 0.5–5.0% solids
o non-aerosol hairsprays
polymer Copolymer solution o good spray aesthetics with
x y fast dry time
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
CH3 H H CH3 H H o provides superior “stiff” hold o aerosol hairsprays aerosol sprays:
Isobutylene/
40% solids CH2 C C C CH2 C C C o good curl memory o non-aerosol hairsprays 0.25–5% solids
Ethylmaleimide/
aquaflex™ in hydro- CH3 C C CH3 o excellent high humidity curl retention o mousses
Hydroxyethyl­ O O O O
FX-64 polymer alcoholic N N o shine o styling creams/lotions non-aerosol
maleimide
solution CH2 CH3 CH2 CH2OH o manageability o pomades, waxes, sprays: 0.25–7%
Copolymer x y o no neutralization required pastes solids

3 aerosol sprays:
CH2 CH CH2 CH C o can be formulated at all VOC levels
VP/Vinyl O 1.0–5.0% solids
N O C =O o good sprayability
aquaflex™ Caprolactam/ 40% solids in NH o aerosol hairsprays
o excellent high humidity curl retention
SF-40 polymer DMAPA Acrylates ethanol y (CH2)3 o non-aerosol hairsprays non-aerosol
X
o low-tack
Copolymer N CH3 sprays: 0.5–5.0%
o high propellant compatibility
CH3
z solids

o gels
o volume, root boost o spray gels
o synergistic high humidity curl retention o spray mousses
aquaflex™ 30% aqueous when used with typical thickeners o pomades, waxes,
Polyimide-1 0.25–4.0% solids
XL-30 polymer solution R= H, -CH2CH3 o flexibility gives style memory pastes
o durable hold o shampoos
o dry films on hair are smooth o conditioners
o hair treatments

o long-lasting hold
o stiff, strong hold with mechanical
30% solids in
aquastyle™ 300 durability
hydroalcoholic
N polymer(1) o excellent high humidity curl retention
solution CH3 CH3 o gels
( CH2 CH ) (CH2 CH ) CH2 C CH2 C o enhances shine
o mousses
N O N O C O C O o reduction of frizz
o styling creams/lotions
NH NH o aquaStyle™ 300 AF support alcohol-free
Polyquaternium-69 (CH2)3 (CH2)3 o pomades, waxes, 0.25–5.0% solids
claims, meets low-VOC requirements
m n
N + N Cl- pastes
o synergistic thickening with
H3C CH3 H3C CH3 o styling sprays
y z hydrophobically modified gellants
C12H25 (non-aerosol)
aquastyle™ 300 30% aqueous o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix
AF polymer(1) solution when used in conjunction with one of
the following rheology modifiers (Ashl™
980/940 Carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60)

o durable, all day hold o crystal clear gels

o good initial stiffness o cream gels
Acrylates o excellent high humidity curl retention o spray gels
aquastyle™ milky, white to O O O
Copolymer (and) o smooth comb-through o creams, lotions 0.5–2.0% solids
SH-100 polymer off-white liquid O O OH
Water o no tack upon drying o waxes, pomades
R o no flaking o mousses
o contributes to viscosity in formulations o patent pending

(1)
Patented technology

4
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

copolymer 845
o aids wet/dry combing
CH3
20% aqueous o imparts smoothness, gloss, body silky feel o gels
solution CH2 CH CH2 C to hair o mousses
copolymer 845 O
N O C =O o gives smooth, conditioned feel to skin o blow-dry conditioners
(optiphen™
O o water alcohol compatible o styling creams/lotions
preserved) VP/Dimethylaminoethyl- 0.2–4.0%
o copolymer 845 is compatible with carbomer o pomades, waxes,
methacrylate Copolymer y (CH2)2 solids
can be formulated into clear gels pastes
20% aqueous N o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix o conditioning rinses
copolymer 937 when used in conjunction with one of the o styling sprays
solution
CH 3 CH 3 following rheology modifiers (Ashl 980/940 o low-VOC sprays
z
Carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60)
50% solids in
copolymer 958
ethanol

o hairsprays
gaffix™ VC-713 o gels
Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/ o superior “natural feel” hold at low solids level
polymer 37% solids in o mousses 0.5–4.0%
Dimethylaminoethyl o excellent propellant compatibility
(sold as Copolymer ethanol o styling creams/lotions solids
Methacrylate Copolymer o no neutralization required
VC-713 in EU) o pomades, waxes,
pastes
o good wet/dry combing
o good curl retention
o mousses
o clear, non-tacky films
flowable 30% o gels
o builds body
alcoholic o styling sprays
gafquat™ 440 o enhances hair luster 0.25–8.0%
solution; o pomades, waxes,
polymer o manageability solids
100,000 avg. pastes
o easy shampoo removability
MW o leave-in
o improves foam aesthetics
conditioning lotions
o smooth skin application with desirable
after-feel

o thermal/mechanical protection
gafquat™ 755N
o good wet/dry combing
polymer Polyquaternium-11 o good curl retention in leave-on hair styling
products o mousses
gafquat™ o clear, non-tacky films o gels
755N-P polymer highly viscous o builds body o pomades, waxes,
(phenoxyethanol- 20% aqueous o enhances hair luster pastes
n m
0.25–4.0%
paraben solution; o manageability o shampoos
solids
preserved) 1,000,000 avg. o improves foam aesthetics o conditioning rinses
MW o easy shampoo removability o leave-in
o smooth skin application with desirable after-feel conditioning lotions
gafquat™ 755N-O o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix o styling sprays
polymer (optiphen™ when used in conjunction with one of the
preserved) following rheology modifiers (Ashl 980/940
carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60)
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o good wet/dry combing
o shampoos
gafquat™ o good curl retention in leave-on hair shampoos/
o conditioners
HS-100 polymer styling products conditioners:
o styling creams/lotions
o clear, non-tacky films up to 1.0%
o gels
20% aqueous o enhances hair luster solids
gafquat™ Polyquaternium-28 o mousses
solution o excellent stability at ph extremes
HS-100-O o pomades, waxes, pastes
o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix styling:
polymer o styling sprays
when used in conjunction with one of 2.0–4.0%
(optiphen o permanent wave
n y the following rheology modifiers (Ashl solids
preserved) solutions
980/940 Carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60)

gantrez™ A-425 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in

polymer Copolymer ethanol

gantrez™ ES-225 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in

polymer Copolymer ethanol

o high hold
gantrez™ ES-335 Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in o excellent shine
o aerosol hairsprays
polymer Copolymer isopropanol OCH3 o durability
o non-aerosol hairsprays
o tack-free
CH2 CH CH CH o spritzer gels 0.5–7.0%
o good style retention
O=C O=C o mousses solids
o humidity resistant
HO OR
o styling creams/lotions
R = ethyl, isopropyl, butyl o good propellant compatibility
gantrez™ ES-425 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in o pomades, waxes, pastes
o pigment dispersant
polymer Copolymer ethanol o emulsion stabilizer

gantrez™ ES-435 Butyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% in

polymer Copolymer isopropanol

gantrez™ SP-215 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids in

polymer Copolymer ethanol

o suitable for low- o good style

OCH3
VOC anhydrous retention
CH 2 CH CH CH o aerosol hairsprays
products o humidity resistant
omnirez™ 2000 Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA 50% solids o non-aerosol hairsprays 0.5–8.0%
O C C O o high hold o good propellant
polymer Copolymer ethanol o mousses solids
HO OCH2CH3 o excellent shine compatibility
o pomades, waxes, pastes
X o durability o low solution
o tack-free viscosity

6
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

o soft, flexible films

primaflo™
o high strength films o low- no-VOC hair styling gels, 2.0–5.0%
HP22 polymer Hydroxypropylcellulose solution
o non-tacky films mousses, sprays solids
solution

100% powder;
0.25–6.0%
PVP K-15 8000 avg. MW
solids
in Daltons

30% solution; o gels

PVP K-15 o strong, stiff hold 0.25–6.0%
8000 avg. MW o mousses
solution o stabilizes emulsions, solids
in Daltons o styling creams/lotions
dispersions, suspensions
o hair colorants
o foam stabilizer
o pomades, waxes, pastes
100% powder; o excellent compatibility with
o in addition, PVP K-15 0.25–6.0%
PVP K-30 60,000 avg. acrylate thickeners
PVP K-30 can be used in solids
MW in Daltons o shine
hairsprays

30% solution;
PVP K-30 0.25–6.0%
60,000 avg.
solution solids
MW in Daltons
PVP
45% solution;
PVP K-60 0.25–6.0%
400,000 avg. x
solution solids
MW in Daltons

100% powder; o strong, stiff hold

o stabilizes emulsions, o gels 0.25–3.0%
PVP K-90 1,300,000 avg.
dispersions, suspensions o mousses solids
MW in Daltons
o foam stabilizer o styling creams/lotions
20% solution; o excellent compatibility with o hair colorants
PVP K-90 acrylate thickeners o pomades, waxes, pastes 0.25–3.0%
1,300,000 avg.
solution o shine solids
MW in Daltons

100% powder;
PVP K-120 0.25–3.0%
3,000,000 avg.
powder solids
MW in Daltons
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o gels
o mousses
white powder
PVP/VA S-630 o styling creams/lotions
(60/40(2))
o hair colorants
o pomades, waxes, pastes
50% solution in
PVP/VA E-335 ethanol (E) or o aerosol hairsprays
PVP/VA I-335 isopropanol (I), o non-aerosol hairsprays
(30/70(2))

50% solution in
PVP/VA E-535 ethanol (E) or
o strong, stiff hold o hydroalcoholic styling lotions, hair thickeners
PVP/VA I-535 isopropanol (I),
(50/50(2)) o enhanced high humidity
VP/VA Copolymer curl retention 0.5–6.0%
o good propellant o alcohol-free o pomades, waxes, solids
50% solution in compatibility o gels pastes
PVP/VA E-635 aqua (W) or
o styling creams/ o formulas (W)
PVP/VA W-635 ethanol (E) X Y lotions o mousses
(60/40(2))
o hair colorants

o “wet look” gels

o water-based aerosol mousses
50% solution o (E) (I) used in anhydrous aerosols
PVP/VA E-735 in water (W), o (W) in alcohol-free formulas
PVP/VA I-735 ethanol (E) or o gels
PVP/VA W-735 isopropanol (I) o mousses
(70/30(2)) o styling creams/lotions
o hair colorants
o pomades, waxes, pastes

Polyquaternium-28

CH3
CH2 CH CH2 CH

N O C=O
NH • yCI
o split end mending with
(CH2)3 o leave in conditioners
mechanical durability
(proposed) o styling creams, lotions
H 3C N
+
CH3 o cuticle smoothing
style fusion™ Polyquaternium-28 10% solid in o rinse off conditioner
o promotes shine 10–20%
complex 1 (and) PVM/MA water CH3 o cream gels
o contributes to styling: fiber
Copolymer o mousses
alignment
PVM/MA Copolymer o serums
o thermal protection
OCH3
CH2 CH CH CH
O=C C=O
OH OH

(2)
Ratio (VP/VA)

8
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
Polyquaternium-11
CH3
CH2 CH CH2 C

N O C=O
O

CH2
CH2
N CH3CH2SO4
CH3 CH3
CH2CH3

o durable smoothing with improved

Polyquaternium-55
wash resistance enhanced through
o creams, lotions
heat activation
o leave in, rinse off
(proposed) o frizz control
conditioner
style fusion™ Polyquaternium-11 (and) 10% solid in o improved manageability,
o cream gels 10–20%
complex 2 (3) Polyquaternium-55 (and) water fiber alignment
o mousses
PVM/MA Copolymer o delivers enhanced shine
o serums
o conditioned smooth hair feel
o sprays (non-aerosol)
o provides hold, curl retention under
high humidity conditions

PVM/MA Copolymer

OCH3
CH2 CH CH CH
O=C C=O
OH OH

(3)
available as a technology concept; contact us to get more information on this patented complex
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o superior, durable hold
o clear, non-tacky films
CH3
o long-lasting curl retention o gels
o substantive to hair o mousses styling:
o conditioning, bodying effects o styling creams/ 0.25–2.0%
o shine lotions solids
styleze™
VP/DMAPA Acrylates 10% aqueous H 2C C NH o manageability o pomades,
CC-10
Copolymer solution H 2C CH2 o clean feel waxes, pastes shampoos/
polymer(1) (CH2)3 o thermal protection o styling sprays Conditioners:
X o volumizing effects in shampoos (non-aerosol) 0.5–1.0%
N
o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix o shampoos solids
H 3C CH3 when used in conjunction with one of the o conditioners
Y
following rheology modifiers (Ashl 980/940
Carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60)
OH CH3

+
CH2OH CH2OCH2CHCH2 N CH3 CI-

OH OH
o enhanced curl formation
O O
CH3 (definition/shape) & curl integrity
Guar OH OH
o mousses
styleze™ ES-1 o improved high humidity hold (24 hours)
Hydroxypropyltrimonium powder O O o styling creams/ 0.25–2.0%
polymer(1) o improved bloom, stabilization
Chloride OH CH OH CH lotions
2 CH2OH 2 CH2OH
o improved style durability
O O O O o COSMOS validated*
OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH
O O O O

o firm hold
o gels
o longevity of style
styleze™ W-10 10% aqueous o mousses gels,
o high humidity resistance
polymer(1) solution o styling creams/ mousses,
o high flexibility
lotions lotions:
o conditioning
o leave-in 0.25–2.0%
o low-tack
conditioners solids
styleze™ W-17 Polyquaternium-55 17% aqueous o volume
o pomades,
polymer(1) solution o color protection
waxes, pastes shampoos/
o thermal protection
o styling sprays conditioners:
o forms a sprayable polyelectrolyte matrix
(non-aerosol) 0.25–1.0%
styleze™ W-20 20% aqueous when used in conjunction with one of the
o shampoos solids
polymer(1) solution following rheology modifiers (Ashl 980/940
o conditioners
Carbomer, RapiThix™ A-60, Stabileze™ SM)
CH3 CH3 CH3 o frizz reduction o lively, flowable
CH2 C HC CH CH2 C HC CH CH2 C HC CH o enhances thermal texture
CH3 O=C C=O CH3 O=C C=O CH3 O=C C=O styling, straight or curly o lasting style hold
N N
OR OH
z o thermal protection o smooth combing
H3C CH (CH2)3 o styling creams/
Water (and) PVM/ x y o humidity resistance o enhances hair’s
CH2 lotions
styleze™ XT3 MA Copolymer (and) 30% aqueous H3C CH3 R=-H2-CH2CH3 o shine natural texture 4.0% solids
O o gels
polymer(1) Polyimide-1 (and) dispersion o smooth, touchable o improved hair (13.5% as is)
H3C CH
o mousses
Caprylyl Glycol CH2 hair alignment/
m OCH3 o lotions
O CH2 CH CH CH
manageability
(CH2)2 O=C O=C
n
OCH3 OH OH

(1)
Patented technology (4)
Patent pending

10
fiber strengthening repair
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
HO
OH O

CH2 CH2
Hydroxypropylgluco­ HO N CH2
H
O
o provides inner strengthening of hair fiber
fiberhance™ namide (and) Hydroxy- clear solution, OH OH
o internal bond creation o shampoos 1% solids
BM solution propylammonium 50% active OH OH O
o improves manageability
Gluconate
– +
HO O H3N OH

OH OH

conditioning polymers
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

o delivers superior cleaning, oil/sebum absorption

o dry shampoo sprays
o leaves visibly less to no residue
advantage™ o dry shampoo mousses
PVP powder o provides cleaner looking, feeling hair up to 5%
revive polymer o dry shampoo powders
o preserves hair color vibrancy
o dry shampoo pastes
o improves manageability
x

OH CH3

aquacat™ CG518 CH2OH CH2OCH2CHCH2 N

+
CH3 CI- o light conditioning
cationic solution OH O OH O o volumizing
CH3
Guar Hydroxypropyl- clear OH OH o volumizing shampoos
0.2–0.4%
trimonium Chloride solution O O o daily shampoos
OH CH CH2OH OH CH CH2OH
2 2

o paraben-free
aquacat™ PF618 O O O O
OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH o light conditioning
cationic solution O O O O
o volumizing

chromohance™ clear o shampoos

o provide consumer perceivable color protection
113 conditioning Polyquaternium-113 Solution, 20% o conditioners 1.0–5.0%
o compatible with most surfactant systems
polymer active o leave on treatments
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o superior conditioning
HO
O
+
N CI o good deposition of silicone emulsions and other oils
HO O
OH
o outstanding clarity in clear shampoos and o shampoos
+
clearhance™ C HO
OH CI N
OH O
body washes o conditioners
Cassia Hydroxypropyl­ OH O
HO
conditioning white powder O OH
HO
o naturally derived o body washes 0.1–0.5%
trimonium Chloride O
O
HO O
O OH
polymer HO O
O
O
HO O
HO
O
O
O
o compatible in all surfactant systems o shower gels
HO O HO
OH HO O o provides a luxurious creamy lather and texture and slip o liquid hand soaps
HO
OH o easy to process, no pH adjustment required
o low odor and color
o provides excellent conditioning, emulsion
stabilization in hair, skin products
conditioneze™ Polyquaternium-37
o easy to incorporate into formulations with no o conditioners
37 PC (E) (and) Propylene Glycol
opaque liquid requirements for heating or neutralization o hair masks 2.0–4.0 %
cationic Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
o compatible with nonionic, cationic surfactants o rheology
solution PPG-1 Trideceth-6
o efficiently build viscosity at low usage levels even at
low pH levels

conditioneze™ CH3
o shampoos
NT-20 cationic o conditioners shampoos/
CH2 CH CH2 C
solution o styling creams/lotions conditioners:
N O C=O o excellent wet/dry combing
o gels 0.25–1.0%
20% aqueous NH o builds creamy, rich lather
conditioneze™ Polyquaternium-28 o mousses solids
solution o imparts body manageability without build-up
NT-20-0 cationic (CH3)3 o pomades, waxes,
o cold processable
solution CH3 N
+
CH3 pastes styling:
(optiphen™ CI- o permanent wave 2.0–4.0% solids
CH3
X Y
preserved) solutions
o combines benefits of film-forming polymers o shampoos
H3C CH3 dimethicone while minimizing drawbacks o conditioners styling:
associated with silicones such as greasy feel, build- o conditioning 1.0–2.0% solids
gafquat HSi
™
Polyquaternium-28 20% aqueous H 3C Si OSi CH3 up treatments
cationic
(and) Dimethicone solution o conditioning o gels shampoos/
solution
H 3C CH3 n
o compatible with anionic surfactants o mousses conditioners:
o stabilizes foam o pomades, waxes, 0.2–1.0% solids
o good storage stability pastes

n o leave-on, rinse-off
n-durhance™ o high conditioning durability conditioners
HN O
A-1000 Polyacrylamidopropyl- o no build-up o hair masks
clear solution 0.1–1.0 % solids
conditioning trimonium Chloride o preservative free o conditioning sprays
polymer + o compatible with cationics, nonionics o shampoos
CI- N

o helps to revert hydrophobicity to original virgin state o shampoos

n-durhance™
Polyacrylamidopropyl­ o durable long lasting conditioning o rinse-off, leave-on
AA-2000 clear solution,
trimonium Chloride/ o no build up conditioners 0.1–1.0 % solids
conditioning 20% active
Acrylamide o compatible with cationic, non-ionic, some anionic o hair masks
polymer
surfactants o conditioning sprays

12
 description/ use
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications
form levels

o excellent wet/dry combability in

silicone, non-silicone formulations o ethnic hair products
Acrylamidopropyl­
o optical clarity o highly damaged/
n-hance™ trimonium Chloride/
powder o fast detangling of hair bleached/treated hair 0.1–0.2%
SP-100 polymer Acrylamide
o leaves wet/dry hair noticeably silkier o anti-druff shampoos
Copolymer
o high deposition of actives (silicone, o silicone deposition
anti-druff, natural oils, etc.)

Acrylamidopropyl trimonium (and) Guar Hydroxypropyl

Chloride/Acrylamide trimonium Chloride
Copolymer
OH CH3 o excellent wet/dry combability in
Acrylamidopropyl­
+ silicone, non-silicone formulations
trimonium Chloride/ CH2OH CH2OCH2CHCH2 N CH3 CI-
n-hance™ 4572 o optical clarity
Acrylamide OH O OH O o shampoos 0.15–
conditioning powder OH OH
CH3
o fast detangling of hair
Copolymer (and) o conditioners 0.25%
polymer o leaves wet/dry hair noticeably silkier
Guar Hydroxypropyl­ O O

OH CH OH CH o high deposition of actives (silicone,

trimonium Chloride 2 CH2OH 2 CH2OH

O O O O
anti-druff, natural oils, etc.)
OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH
O O O O

o deep conditioning
o high conditioning, wet/dry combing
o ethnic hair products
o active deposition aid
o highly damaged/
n-hance™ 3215 o efficient silicone deposition
bleached/treated hair 0.2–0.4%
cationic guar o softer hair feel
o anti-druff shampoos
o lather richness
o high active deposition
o COSMOS validated*
o silicone deposition

o shampoos/2-in-1
OH CH3 shampoos for
+ o ethnic hair
n-hance™ 3196 CH2OH CH2OCH2CHCH2 N CH3 CI-
o medium conditioning, wet/dry o highly damaged/ 0.2–0.4%
cationic guar OH O OH O combing bleached/treated hair
CH3
OH OH o medium deposition aid o silicone deposition
Guar Hydroxypropyl- o efficient silicone deposition o anti-druff shampoos
powder O O
trimonium Chloride o softer hair feel
OH CH
2 CH2OH OH CH
2 CH2OH o lather richness o damaged/bleached/
o COSMOS validated* treated hair
n-hance™ O O O O o virgin hair
CG13 cationic OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH 0.2–0.4%
O O O O o silicone deposition
guar
o active deposition
o daily shampoos

o light to medium conditioning, wet/

dry combing
o clear systems
n-hance™ o medium deposition aid
o mildly damaged virgin hair
CCG45 o efficient silicone deposition 0.2–0.4%
o volumizing shampoos
cationic guar o softer hair feel
o daily shampoos
o lather richness
o COSMOS validated*
 description/ use
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications
form levels
OH CH3

+
CH2OH CH2OCH2CHCH2 N CH3 CI-

OH O OH O
CH3 o light
OH OH
conditioning
n-hance™ 3299 Guar Hydroxypropyl- o low viscosity
powder O O shampoos 0.2–0.4%
cationic guar trimonium Chloride o low conditioning
OH CH OH CH o volumizing
2 CH2OH 2 CH2OH
shampoos
O O O O
OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH
O O O O

rheology modifiers
description/ use
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications
form levels

o shampoos
o rheology modifier
Ashland™ 980/940 o styling
Carbomer powder o stabilization 0.2–0.5%
carbomer products

benecel™ HPMC o stabilizes complex surfactant

mixtures
o increases lather density
o shampoos
Hydroxypropyl o increases lather volume
benecel™ E10 HPMC powder o styling 0.5–2.0%
Methylcellulose o increases lather stability
products
o thickens soap-based shampoos
o benecel™ K200M HPMC thickens
benecel™ K200M HPMC hydroalcoholic systems

klucel™ hydroxy- o alcohol-soluble thickener o styling

Hydroxypropylcellulose powder 0.2–1.0%
propylcellulose o film-former products

14
 description/ use
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications
form levels

natrosol™
hydroxyethylcellulose/ o viscosity builder o conditioners
Hydroxyethylcellulose powder 0.2–1.0%
natrosol™ 250 ME/ o stabilization o styling products
HR/HHR

natrosol™ plus 330

CS cetyl modified
hydroxyethylcellulose o shampoos
o provides stability for complex o conditioners
Cetyl anionic, cationic or nonionic o styling products
powder 0.5–1.5%
Hydroxyethylcellulose surfactant systems o natrosol™ plus 330 CS
o thickens cationic emulsions can be used in
polysurf™ 67 APG-based systems
cetyl modified
hydroxyethylcellulose

o easy-to-use emollient-based
H H dispersion o emulsifier-free products
Sodium Polyacrylate white milky CH2 CH o provides soft, smooth feel o hair shine lotions
(and) Hydrogenated dispersion CH3(CH2)12(OCH2CH2)nOH o can be post-added to adjust o anti-frizz products Up to
rapithix™ A-60 polymer CO2Na n trideceth-6
Polydecene (and) (57–59% sodium polyacrylate (and)
viscosity after emulsion forms, cools o styling creams/lotions 3.6% solids
Trideceth-6 solids) o produces instant crème gels at o conditioning creams
hydrogenated polydecene (and)
room temperature o pomades, waxes, pastes
o high shear not required

o fully active white powder offering

o emulsifier-free products
greater formulation flexibility
CH2 CH o hair shine lotions
o provides soft, smooth feel
rapithix™ A-100 o anti-frizz products
Sodium Polyacrylate white powder CO2Na n o no pre-set oil phase 0.2–2.5%
polymer o styling creams/lotions
o makes oil-free systems possible
o conditioning creams
sodium polyacrylate o high-solids content for higher
o pomades, waxes, pastes
efficiency
o clear gels
o film-former/styling polymer
o spray gels
o natural hold
o suspended gels
o long-term, humidity resistant
o cream gels
hold benefits
o hair color application
ultrathix™ P-100 Acrylic Acid/VP o no flaking on hair
white powder passes 24-hour peroxide 0.25–2.5%
polymer Crosspolymer o low tack profile
boil test
o easy dispersal and spreadability
o smoothing creams
o shear thinning rheology modifier
o mousses
with high yield value
o pomades, waxes, pastes
o broad raw material compatibility
o hydroalcoholic sprays
conditioners description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

o mild cationic with pronounced

OH OH HO O CH3 substantivity to hair o shampoos
ceraphyl™ 60
60% aqueous H2C CH CH CH CH C NH (CH2)3 N CH2 CH2OH Cl o provides detangling, anti-static o conditioners up to 4.8%
cationic Quaternium-22
solution conditioning o gels solids
solution OH OH CH3
o binds moisture in hair care o mousses
applications

O CH3 o mild cationic with pronounced

up to 5.0%
ceraphyl™ 65 substantivity to hair
Quaternium-26 (and) R C NH CH2 CH2 CH2 N CH2 CH OH Cl o shampoos (rinse-off
cationic 55% solution o provides detangling, anti-static
Propylene Glycol o conditioners application
solution CH3 conditioning
only)
o cationic emulsification
R= Mink fatty acids

o mild cationic 1.0% solids

o shampoos
o pronounced substantivity to skin, for thermal
o conditioners
O CH3 O hair protection
ceraphyl™ 70 o mousses
Quaternium-70 (and) Cl o provides detangling, anti-static
cationic 54% solution C17H35 C NH (CH2)3 N CH2 C O C14H29 o cream gels
Propylene Glycol conditioning up to 0.7%
solution CH3 o pomades, waxes, pastes
o cationic emulsification solids for
o permanent wave
o thermal protection from curling rinse-off
solutions
irons & blow dryers applications

o composed of vegetal-based
amphiphilic compounds o shampoos
1.67–6.67% by
+ o lamellar gel structurizing ingredient o conditioners
O CH3 weight when
CI that enhances formulation o styling creams/lotions
used for
Cetearyl Alcohol RC NH (CH2)3 N CH3 texture stability o mousses
conditioning
(and) Behenyl white to o provides moisturization o treatment applications
prolipid 161
™
Alcohol (and) cream CH2 CH2OH conditioning to hair targeting damaged,
4.0–6.0% by
lamellar gel(1) Hydroxyethyl colored o ease of wet/dry combing chemically treated hair
weight when
Cetearamidopropyl­ flakes o makes hair feels soft, smooth o hair colorants
CH3 (CH2)20 CH2 OH CH3 (CH2)16 CH2 OH CH3 (CH2)14 CH2 OH used as a
dimonium Chloride o binder o pomades, waxes, pastes
Behenyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Alcohol structuring
o thickener o permanent wave
agent
o opacifying agent solutions
o anti-static o hair relaxers
o substantive over a broad pH range

zenix™ 4617 P o silicone-like performance without

o shampoos
phosphate ester Oleth-5 Phosphate liquid silicone when combined with 2.0–4.0%
x o 2-in-1 shampoos
surfactant R cationic guar

(1)
Patented technology

16
vincience™
biotHAIRapy™ biofunctionals
trade name INCI name description benefits

o COSMOS validated*
an increase in key biomarkers:
o Ki67 ß1-integrin, markers of proliferation
Water, communication respectively (in vitro, ex vivo)
Glycerin,
inspired by the o versican, noggin, highly expressed during
Hydrolyzed
“Hair Fullness the anagen phase in the dermal papilla
Corn Protein,
capauxein™ G2 System™” (3D-spheres)
Adenosine,
biofunctional concept
Magnesium visible benefits on 39 panel lists:
associated with
Ascorbyl o a healthier scalp with less visible oiliness, more
hair density
Phosphate, hydration (in vivo)
Carnitine o visible maintenance of the anagen phase
(in vivo)
o visible improvement of hair density, fullness
(in vivo)

o COSMOS validated*
boosts key pigmentation markers:
o increased tyrosinase, (in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo)
a flax seed o increased TRP1, pmel17, (in vivo)
extract inspired o increased MITF and cKit, known as critical
by the “Hair
Water (and) regulators of melanocytes and melanocyte
Melanin
chromafend™ Glycerin (and) stem cells, (in vivo)
System™”
biofunctional Hydrolyzed o increased PAR-2 involved in melanin transfer,
concept
Linseed extract (in vivo)
to help hair o increased melanin in the hair cortex, (ex vivo)
preserve its
original color limiting the appearance of gray hair (in vivo):
o increased hair darkening (L* value)
o increased amount of dark hair (trichoScan)
o long lasting benefits
o COSMOS validated*
o consumer-perceivable benefit for stronger,
a yeast extract
thicker, healthier hair feel (in vivo)
inspired by the
Water o increase in key protein markers, keratin 14,
“Hair Keratin
(aqua) (and) keratin 17, keratin 71, trichohyalin
dynagen™ System™”
Glycerin (and) (ex vivo), all of which are associated with
biofunctional concept
Hydrolyzed minimization of hair fall
for stronger,
Yeast Protein o increase in collagen I (ex vivo)
healthier
o increase in collagen IV CD34 (ex vivo)
looking hair
associated with healthy appearance of
the hair
 trade name INCI name description benefits

o COSMOS validated*
sheltering hair from air pollutants (in vitro, ex vivo):
o helps chelate heavy metals—helps reduce hair damage when hair roots from air pollutants
o visibly helps increase the antioxidant defenses (catalase enzyme) in scalp cells
o visibly reduces the pollution marker AhR/CYP1A1 the IL1-R1 response triggered by air pollutants
Water (aqua) Glycerin
a botanical extract inspired o helps limit the visible impact of major air pollutants on VEGFA microcirculation marker Sox9 stem cells marker
Pisum Sativum
procataline™ G2 by the “Hair Antioxidant sheltering scalp from air pollutants (in vivo):
(pea) extract Salvia
biofunctional System™” concept for hair o visibly reduces stratum corneum oxidative damage
Hispanica Seed
detox, scalp purifying o helps increase scalp hydration barrier function
Extract
o contributes to balance scalp oiliness
o helps decrease scalp flakes, redness
o visibly reduces scalp irritation microcirculation marker Sox9 stem cells marker.
o associated with reduced scalp stratum corneum oxidative damage, increased scalp hydration, better barrier
function,a visible decrease in scalp flakes and redness.

Water (aqua) (and) a rice extract inspired by o COSMOS validated*

protectagen™ Glycerin (and) the “Hair Stemness System™” o increased stem cell markers, keratin 15, ß6-Integrin, ß-Catenin p63, key to the maintenance of hair growth capital (ex vivo)
biofunctional Hydrolyzed Rice concept to mitigate stress, o helps preserve hair follicle against harmful UV damage, evidenced by the lower expression of p53 markers (ex vivo)
Protein preserve hair growth capital o improved appearance of hair length (ex vivo)

Note: In the U.S. hair growth, hair loss prevention claims fall under an OTC drug monograph 21CFR Part 310. Use of these claims requires a New Drug Application. Similar restrictions may exist in other parts of the world.

hair care product categories

trade name INCI name hair aging at hair hair uv oxidative
hair color
the roots strength nourishment stress stress
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)
capauxein™ biofunctional
Hydrolyzed Corn Protein
l

Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)

chromafend™ biofunctional
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
l l

Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)

dynagen™ biofunctional
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
l l l

Water (aqua) Glycerin Pisum Sativum (pea)

procataline™ G2 biofunctional
extractSalvia Hispanica Seed Extract
l l l

Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)

protectagen™ biofunctional
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
l l

Note: In the U.S. hair growth, hair loss prevention claims fall under an OTC drug monograph 21CFR Part 310. Use of these claims requires a New Drug Application. Similar restrictions may exist in other parts of the world.

18
preservatives
description/ use
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications
form levels
germaben™ II OH O o shampoos
Propylene Glycol (and) H H
o broad-spectrum activity against gram-
preservative HO N N O OR o conditioners
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) positive, gram-negative bacteria, 0.5–1.0%
clear liquid o mousses
germaben™ II-E Methylparaben (and) O N N OH R=CH3
yeast, mold
HO CH2-CH2-CH3 o creams
preservative Propylparaben OH O Paraben(s) o effective over broad pH range: 3.0–7.5
o pomades, waxes, pastes
X X
X
HN N O o very effective against gram-positive,
white, X
C X gram-negative bacteria
germall 115
™
free-flowing O N CH 2 HN N O o shampoos
Imidazolidinyl Urea C o acts synergistically with other 0.2–0.6%
preservative hygroscopic N o conditioners
O O N X preservatives
powder X
N o effective over broad pH range: 3–9
X O

OH
H H
o broad-spectrum activity against gram-
white, HO N N O
positive, gram-negative bacteria
germall™ II free-flowing o shampoos
Diazolidinyl Urea o synergistic with other preservatives 0.1–0.3%
preservative hygroscopic O N N OH o conditioners
o effective over broad pH range: 3–9
powder
OH O

OH
H H
HO N N O

white, O N N OH o shampoos
Diazolidinyl Urea (and)
germall™ plus free-flowing o broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity o conditioners
Iodopropynyl OH O 0.05–0.2%
preservative(1) hygroscopic o effective over broad pH range: 3–8 o gels
Butylcarbamate
powder O o styling creams/lotions

I C CH 2O NH

(1)
Patented technology
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
OH
H H
HO N N O

O o shampoos
Propylene Glycol (and) N N OH
o conditioners
liquid germall ™
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) o broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity
clear liquid OH O o gels 0.1–0.5%
plus preservative(1) Iodopropynyl o effective over broad pH range: 3–8
o styling creams/
Butylcarbamate
O lotions

I C CH 2O NH

o shampoos
o effective fungicide
o conditioners
Butylene Glycol o works over wide pH range: 4–9
liquagard™ o styling creams/
(and) Iodopropynyl liquid o compatible with broad range of 0.1–0.2%(2)
preservative lotions
Butylcarbamate raw materials including surfactants,
o hair colorants
proteins
o gels
OH
O
HO
OH

liquapar™ ME Phenoxyethanol (and) o provides similar efficiency to traditional

colorless to o styling creams/
preservative Methylparaben (and) O O paraben combinations
light brown CH3
O lotions 0.5–1.0%
(Available in EU, Ethylparaben (and) o effective over broad pH range: 3.0–7.5
solution O o anhydrous systems
LA, AP) Caprylyl Glycol o global use(5)
HO

OH

O
OH

liquapar™ MEP
Phenoxyethanol (and) o broad-spectrum activity against
preservative clear, o shampoos
Methylparaben (and) O
bacteria, yeast, mold
(sold as Rokonsal™ yellowish o conditioners 0.3–1.0%
Ethylparaben (and) o effective over broad pH range: 3.0–7.5
MEP preservative solution o anhydrous systems
Propylparaben OR o global use(5)
in EU)
R=CH3
CH2-CH3
HO CH2-CH2-CH3

O
Phenoxyethanol (and)
O o broad-spectrum activity against
Methylparaben (and) OH OR o styling creams/
liquapar™ PN R=CH3 bacteria, yeast, mold
Ethylparaben (and) clear liquid CH2-CH2-CH3 lotions 0.5–1.0%
preservative o effective over broad pH range: 3.0–7.5
Propylparaben (and) CH2CH3 o anhydrous systems
HO (CH2)3CH3 o global use(5)
Butylparaben

(1)
Patented technology (2)
Ratio (VP/VA) (5)
For country-specific details, please contact your account manager

20
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

o shampoos
o conditioners
O o broad-spectrum activity against
OH o gels
optiphen™ 200 Phenoxyethanol (and) clear to pale OH bacteria, yeast, mold 0.75–1.3%
o mousses
preservative Caprylyl Glycol straw liquid OH o effective over broad pH range: 4.0–8.0
o creams
o global use(5)
o pomades, waxes,
pastes

o shampoos
clear to pale o broad-spectrum activity against
o conditioners
straw liquid O bacteria, yeast, mold—additional
OH o gels
optiphen™ Phenoxyethanol (and) OH fungicidal protection may be needed
o mousses 0.75–1.5%
preservative(1) Caprylyl Glycol [EU: colorless OH in difficult formulations
o styling creams/lotions
to light yellow o effective over broad pH range: 4–8
o pomades, waxes,
solution] o global use(5)
pastes

o microbiostatic spectrum of activity, in

some formulations additional booster o shampoos
is needed o conditioners
Propylene Carbonate
o effective up to pH 6.0 o gels
optiphen™ DP (and) Benzoic Acid (and)
liquid o global use(5) o mousses 0.3–2.0%
preservative Dehydroacetic Acid (and)
o cost efficient preservative based on o styling creams/lotions
Propanediol
uncontroversial ingredients o pomades, waxes,
o optimized delivery system without pastes
alcoholic antimicrobials

o antifungal boosting activity at low

levels; full antimicrobial spectra at o shampoos
high levels o conditioners
o effective up to pH 6.4. o gels
optiphen™ DLP Propylene Carbonate
liquid o global use(5) o mousses 0.3–2.0%
preservative (and) Dehydroacetic Acid
o cost efficient preservative based on o styling creams/lotions
nature identical active ingredient o pomades, waxes,
o optimized delivery system without pastes
alcoholic antimicrobials

O
clear to pale OH OH o broad spectrum activity against
o mousses
straw liquid OH bacteria, yeast, mold
Phenoxyethanol (and) o shampoos
optiphen™ plus o ideal for slightly acidic personal
Caprylyl Glycol CO2H o conditioners 0.75–1.5%
preservative(1) [EU: colorless care products
(and) Sorbic Acid o pomades, waxes,
to light yellow o effective pH range up to 6.0
pastes
solution] H3C
o global use(5)

(1)
Patented technology (5)
For country-specific details, please contact your account manager
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o microbiostatic spectrum of activity
optiphen™ BD O O O against bacteria, mold, yeast
Benzyl Alcohol (and) colorless to o styling creams/lotions
preservative OH o effective up to pH 6.4
Benzoic Acid (and) light yellow OH o shampoos 0.3–1.0%
(Available in EU, o global use(5)
Dehydroacetic Acid solution o conditioners
LA, AP) o nature-identical combination
O O
o ecocert-compliant

o shampoos
COOH o effective against gram-positive gram-
optiphen™ BSB-N o conditioners
CO2H negative bacteria, yeast, mold
preservative Benzyl Alcohol (and) o gels
colorless light o effective up to pH 5.4 0.3–1.0%
(sold as Rokonsal™ Glycerin (and) Benzoic OH o mousses
brown liquid o global use(5)
658-N preservative Acid (and) Sorbic Acid o styling creams/lotions
H3 C o nature-identical combination
in EU) o pomades, waxes,
o ecocert-compliant
pastes

O CO2H COOH o shampoos

OH
o effective against gram-positive gram- o conditioners
Phenoxyethanol (and)
optiphen™ BSP (Sold negative bacteria, yeast, mold o gels
Propylene Glycol (and) colorless light H3C
as Rokonsal BSP o effective up to pH 5.4 o mousses 0.3–1.0%
Benzoic Acid (and) brown liquid
preservative in EU) o global use(5) o styling creams/lotions
Sorbic Acid HO o nature-identical combination o pomades, waxes,
OH pastes

o shampoos
o effective against gram-positive gram-
Benzyl Alcohol (and) o conditioners
optiphen BSB-W
™ O O-Na
+
negative bacteria, yeast, mold
Water (aqua) (and) O o gels
preservative colorless light o effective up to pH 5.4
Sodium OH o mousses 0.3–1.0%
(Available in EU, brown liquid O K
+
o global use(5)
Benzoate (and) o styling creams/lotions
LA, AP) o nature-identical combination
Potassium Sorbate o pomades, waxes,
o ecocert-compliant
pastes
o shampoos
o conditioners
O o mainly effective against gram-positive
colorless to o gels
optiphen™ MIT Methylisothiazolinone gram-negative bacteria
light yellow o mousses 0.05–0.1%
preservative Water (aqua) o effective between pH 2–10
solution S N o styling creams/lotions
o global use(5)
o pomades, waxes,
pastes

o shampoos
Methylisothiazolinone o conditioners
OH o broad-spectrum activity against bacteria,
(and) Phenethyl colorless to o gels
optiphen™ MIT Plus O
yeast, mold 0.05–0.2%
Alcohol (and) PPG-2- light yellow O
o mousses
preservative(4) S N O
OH o effective between pH 2–10
Methyl Ether (and) water solution o styling creams/lotions
o global use(5)
(Aqua) o pomades, waxes,
pastes

(5)
For country-specific details, please contact your account manager   (4)
Patent pending

22
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o shampoos
o conditioners
Methylisothiazolinone OH o broad-spectrum activity against
optiphen™ O o gels
(and) Phenylpropanol colorless to light bacteria, yeast, mold
MIT Ultra o mousses 0.05–0.3%
(and) Propylene Glycol yellow solution S N o effective between pH 2–10
preservative(4) o styling creams/lotions
(and) Water (aqua) CH3CHCH2OH o global use(5)
o pomades, waxes,
OH pastes

optiphen™ ND O o shampoos
COOH O o microbiostatic spectrum of activity
preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) O o conditioners
light yellow to OH C CH3 against bacteria, mold, yeast
(Sold as Rokonsal Benzoic Acid (and) o creams 0.3–1.0%
yellow solution o effective up to pH 6.4
ND preservative Dehydroacetic Acid o pomades, waxes,
H3C O O o global use(5)
in EU) pastes

Benzyl Alcohol (and) o broad-spectrum activity against

rokonsal™ LJ-1 -
O O I o shampoos
2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane- bacteria, with enhanced
preservative o conditioners
+
N OH
1,3-Diol (and) Iodopropynyl colorless to light OH performance against fungi, yeast
(Available in EU, Br O o styling creams/lotions 0.1–0.4%(5)
Butylcarbamate (and) brown solution o fast-acting
LA, AP) o pomades, waxes,
Deceth-8 (and) PPG-2 O N o effective up to pH 7.0 max.
HO H pastes
Methyl Ether o global use(5)

-
O O
N+ OH O
rokonsal™ SE-2 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane- o broad-spectrum activity against
Br O o shampoos
preservative 1,3-Diol (and) bacteria, fungi, yeast
colorless to o conditioners
(Available in EU, Ethylparaben (and) HO o fast-acting 0.1–0.3%
yellow solution o styling creams/lotions
LA, AP) Cetrimonium Bromide HO o effective up to pH 7.0 max.
(and) PPG-2 Methyl Ether + o global use(5)
N Br-

Me
rokonsal™ KS-4 Benzyl Alcohol (and) Cl S o broad spectrum activity against
preservative Methylchloroisothiazolinone OH N bacteria, yeast, mold
colorless to N o shampoos
(Available in EU, (and) O o fast-acting 0.05–0.12%
yellow solution O
S o conditioners
LA, AP) Methylisothiazolinone o effective up to pH 8.0 max.
(and) Propylene Glycol o global use(5)

O
H
C O- Na+ o broad-spectrum preservation
o shampoos
H C o long history of use for efficacy
suttocide™ A Sodium clear to pale o conditioners
o fast-acting 0.5–1.0%
preservative Hydroxymethylglycinate yellow solution o gels
HN o effective pH: 3.5–12
OH o styling creams/lotions
C o global use(5)
H H

(5)
For country-specific details, please contact your account manager   (4)
Patent pending
aromatics with
antimicrobial properties
trade name INCI name description/form features/benefits applications use levels
o mild rose-like aroma, containing naturally derived o shampoos
nature-identical
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) nature identical ingredients o conditioners
fragrance additive
conarom™ P-2 Propanediol (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/ o aromatic ingredient that provides broad- o gels
with naturally 0.3–2.0%
aromatic Sebacate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/ spectrum protection o mousses
derived emulsifier
Caprate (and) Aqua (Water) o complements aroma of final product o styling creams/lotions
system
o effective pH range 4–8 o pomades, waxes, pastes

opacifiers/pearlizers
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o conditioners
CH2 CH CH2 CH o opacifier
o acid rinses
antara™ 430 o forms strong, light-stable films with
fluid, milky white N o permanent wave
polymer high water resistance up to 1.0%
Styrene/VP Copolymer emulsion; 40% O solutions
(Sold as Polectron™ o high acid tolerance solids
solids o gels
in the USA) o dye acceptor in hair color
o hair colorants
preparations
x y o cream developers

O
CH3(CH2)16C OCH2CH2OH

cerasynt™ IP Glycol Stearate (and) white to cream o shampoos up to 2.0%

O CH3 o imparts pearlescence, opacity
stearate ester Stearamide AMP colored flakes o styling creams/lotions solids
CH3(CH2)16C NHCCH2OH

CH3

O OH
cerasynt™ PA white to cream o shampoos up to 2.0%
Propylene Glycol Stearate o imparts pearlescence, opacity
stearate ester colored flakes C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH3 o styling creams/lotions solids

24
emulsifiers
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
O OH
C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH2 OH
o nonionic primary emulsifier o hair straighteners
cerasynt 945
™
Glyceryl Stearate (and) CH3 CH CHCONCH2 CH3
flake o high pH tolerance o styling creams/lotions 1.0–3.0%
stearate ester Laureth-23
CH3 o forms opaque gels with mineral oil o conditioners

O OH
cerasynt™ SD o nonionic auxiliary emulsifier o styling creams/lotions
Glyceryl Stearate flake 0.25–3.0%
stearate ester C17H35 C O CH2 CH CH2 OH o emulsion stabilizer o conditioners

emollients
description/

conditioners
shampoos

hairsprays

pomades,
products
use level

waxes,
styling

pastes
shine
form

trade name INCI name structure features/benefits

esters based on alpha hydroxy acids
O
o plasticizing, de-tackifying agent
ceraphyl 31
™
CH3CHC OCH2(CH2)10CH3
Lauryl Lactate liquid o highly effective emolliency with lubricity 0.3–5.0% l l l
ester
o improves product slip upon application
OH

O o effective de-tackifying agent

o spreads easily when applied
ceraphyl 41
™
C12-15 Alkyl CH3CHC OR o dry initial feel with non-oily after-feel
ester Lactate
liquid 0.3–5.0% l
o provides viscosity building, lather
OH
creaminess to shampoos
R = C12-15 Mixed Alcohols

O
ceraphyl 50
™
Myristyl soft
CH3CHC OCH2(CH2)12CH3 o imparts lubricity 0.3–5.0% l l l
ester Lactate solid
OH
 shine products

waxes, pastes
conditioners
description/

shampoos

hairsprays

pomades,
use level

styling
form
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits
light, dry feeling esters

ceraphyl™ 140A Isodecyl

H3C O o excellent spreadability with dry initial feel
liquid o drier feel than ceraphyl™ 140 due to branching 0.3–5.0% l
ester Oleate C8H17 C O C C7H17 CH CH C8H17 o very little residual after-feel

o effective plasticizer, de-tackifier

CH3 O O CH3 o reduces greasiness of high-oil products
ceraphyl™ 230 Diisopropyl o spreads rapidly
ester Adipate
liquid CH O C (CH2)4 C O CH o imparts dry initial feel with little to no residual
0.3–5.0% l l l l
after-feel
CH3 CH3 o coupling agent for hydroalcoholic preparations
general purpose esters
O o non-occlusive
o non-oily after-feel
ceraphyl™ 368M Ethylhexyl CH3 (CH2)3 CH CH2 O C (CH2)14 CH3
liquid o suitable mineral oil replacement for beach 0.3–5.0% l
ester Palmitate
protection formulations
CH2CH3 o no impact on absorbance curves of uv actives

O
ceraphyl™ 494 Isocetyl o all-purpose lubricant which imparts dry,
liquid CH3 (CH2)16 C O CH2 CH C8H17 0.3–5.0% l l l l
ester Stearate emollient feel
C6H13

esters that impart body

Myristyl O o enhances spreadability, reduces drag upon

ceraphyl™ 424 waxy
ester
Myristate (and)
solid
product application 0.3–5.0% l l l
Myristyl Laurate CH3 (CH2)12 C O (CH2)13 CH3 o liquifies upon contact with the body

esters with elegant feel

O CH3
ceraphyl™ 55 Tridecyl H27C13 O C C CH3
liquid o imparts elegant, light, non-oily feel 0.3–5.0% l
ester Neopentanoate
CH3

C8H17 CH2 O CH3

ceraphyl™ 375 Isostearyl o improves product spreadability, playtime
ester Neopentanoate
liquid HC CH2 O C C CH3 o imparts elegant, light, non-oily feel
0.3–5.0% l
C6H13 CH2 CH3

26
 conditioners
description/

shampoos

hairsprays

pomades,
products
use level

waxes,
styling

pastes
shine
form
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits
O o imparts dry initial feel, luxurious mid-feel
with a silky after-feel
ceraphyl™ Octyldodecyl CH3(CH2)16C OCH2CH(CH2)9CH3
liquid o enhances product spreadability 0.3–5.0% l l l
ODS ester Stearate
o exceptional powder binding properties
CH2(CH2)6CH3 when blended with ceraphyl™ 847 (1:1)
esters for maximum after-feel
ceraphyl™ 791 O C6H13 O C6H13
ester (complies o imparts dry initial feel with lubricious
Isocetyl Stearoyl
to organic liquid C17H35 C O CH (CH2)10 C O CH2 CH after-feel 0.3–5.0% l
Stearate
certifications, like o long-lasting emollient
Ecocert) C8H17
O O
ceraphyl™ 847 o offers dry initial feel with long-lasting
ester (complies Octyldodecyl CH2 O C (CH2)10 CH O C C17H35 cushiony, rich after-feel
to organic Stearoyl liquid o exceptional pigment dispersing 0.3–5.0% l l
certifications, like Stearate CH C8H17 C6H13 binding properties when blended with
Ecocert) ceraphyl™ ODS (1:1)
C10H21
esters with natural appeal
O
Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride CH2 OCR
orchid™ (and) O o enhances product spreadability
complex OS Cymbidium
liquid
CH OCR1 o offers smooth, light, silky after-feel
0.3–5.0% l
Griflorum Flower O
Extract CH2 OCR11 R = Caprylic/Capric Acid

esters for rinse-off products

O O

O O OH
ceraphyl™ Castoryl O O o offers clinically-proven moisturization
RMT ester Maleate
liquid OH
in rinse-off products
0.3–5.0% l
O O OH

esters with solubilizing capability

O o high solubilizing capacity
o shine enhancement
x-tend™ Phenethyl
liquid O o excellent skin feel 0.3–5.0% l l
226 ester Benzoate
o increases the critical wavelength, the UVA/UVB ratio
o boosts polymeric shine in hairsprays
lubricants
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

lubrajel™(6) II XD Glycerin (and) Glyceryl

2.0–25.0%
hydrogel Polyacrylate

Glycerin (and) Glyceryl o superior moisturization

lubrajel™(6) CG Acrylate/Acrylic Acid o imparts an inviting after-feel, slip
o excellent lubricity, spreadability, 5.0–25.0%
hydrogel Copolymer (and)
Propylene Glycol emolliency
o broad formulation compatibility,
clear gels
long shelf life
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl o good auxiliary thickening, suspending
lubrajel™(6) DV Acrylate/Acrylic Acid power, viscosity enhancement 5.0–25.0%
hydrogel Copolymer (and) Theoretical structure: o water-soluble
Propylene Glycol Glyceryl Acetate/Acrylic Acid o cold-processable
Copolymer
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl
lubrajel™(6) MS Acrylate/Acrylic Acid
2.0–25.0%
hydrogel Copolymer (and)
Propylene Glycol Carboxyvinyl o hair treatment gels
Glycerin backbone
o serums
Water (and) Glycerin (and) o scalp care
Sodium PCA (and) Erythritol
lubrajel ™ (6)
marine
(and) Chondrus Crispus
(and) Xanthan Gum 0.3–50.0%

lubrajel™(6) natural skin Glycerin, Beta-Glucan,

conditioning gel Algin, Xanthan Gum

Glycerin (and) Glyceryl

lubrajel™(6) NP
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid o multifunctional ingredient providing 2.0–25%
hydrogel very pale
Copolymer sensory, stabilization benefits
yellow viscous
o high natural origin content (over 93%
gel
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl according to ISO 16128-2:2017)
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid
lubrajel™(6) oil
Copolymer (and) 0.2–5.0%
hydrogel
Propylene Glycol (and)
PVM/MA Copolymer
lubrajel™(6,7) PF
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl
hydrogel (Paraben-
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid 5.0–25.0%
free version of
Copolymer
lubrajel™(6) CG)

(6)
Lubrajel, Lubrasil are registered trademarks of United-Guardian, Inc. (7)
Also available in paraben-free version

28
 description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form

Glycerin (and) Glyceryl

Acrylate/Acrylic Acid
Copolymer (and)
lubrasil™(6)
Polysorbate 20 (and) 5.0–25.0%
microemulsion
Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Propylene Glycol (and)
Dimethiconol
o superior moisturization
Carboxyvinyl o imparts an inviting after-feel, slip
Glycerin backbone o excellent lubricity, spreadability,
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl emolliency
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid o broad formulation compatibility, long
lubrasil(6) II DM clear gels o hair treatment gels
Copolymer (and) shelf life 2.5–10.0%
microemulsion
Laureth-23 (and) o good auxiliary thickening, suspending
Dimethicone Theoretical structure: power, viscosity enhancement
Glyceryl Acetate/Acrylic Acid o water-soluble
Copolymer o cold-processable
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl
Acrylate/Acrylic Acid
lubrasil(6) II SB Copolymer (and)
3.0–15.0%
microemulsion Laureth-23 (and)
Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Dimethiconol

(6)
Lubrajel, Lubrasil are registered trademarks of United-Guardian, Inc.

hair protectants
description/
trade name INCI name structure features/benefits applications use levels
form
o protects hair from UV light o gels
escalol™ HP DimethylPABAmidopropyl + - o substantive o mousses
hair protectant(1) Laurdimonium Tosylate 100% active
O O o conditions hair giving it body, o styling sprays
powder CH3 CH3 O S O
manageability o serums 0.1–0.5%
N C NH (CH2)3 N
DimethylPABAmidopropyl o provides detangling, anti-static o hair treatment solids
creamy waxy CH3 CH3
escalol™ HP 610 Laurdimonium Tosylate C12H25 CH3 properties to hair o pomades, waxes,
solid
hair protectant(1) (and) Water (and) o easy to handle pastes
Propylene Glycol Stearate o broad raw material compatibility o conditioners

(1)
Patented technology
captivates encapsulates ™

trade name size (microns) INCI description/benefits

captivates™ visible 500–700 Water (Aqua) (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (and) Ultramarines (C.I. moisturizing shea butter capsule
HC0001 77007) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Titanium Dioxide (C.I. Blue shea butter capsules. Suitable for
77891) (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Xanthan Gum (and) emulsions (creams, lotions) as well as rinse-off
Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben formulations.

captivates™ visible 1250 Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Gelatin (Marine, Fish) (and) pearl capsule
HC0002 Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Tocopherol Acetate (and) Prunus Persica Pigmented blend of mineral oil, vitamin E
(Peach) Kernel Oil (and) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Propylene Glycol acetate, peach kernel oil. For use in rinse-off
(and) Xanthan Gum (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) formulations.
Propylparaben

captivates™ visible 1500 Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Gelatin (and) Acacia Senegal green/blue iridescent capsule
HC0009 gum (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Containing mineral oil, vitamin e acetate.
Titanium Dioxide (C.I. 77891) (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Mica (C.I. 77019) Suitable for rinse-off applications.
(and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Tocopherol Acetate (and)
Chromium Oxide Greens (C.I. 77288) (and) Green 6 (C.I. 61565) (and) Ferric
Ferrocyanide (C.I. 77510)

captivates™ visible 1250 Water (Aqua) (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (and) Gelatin (and) moisturizing shea butter capsule
HC0012 Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Mica (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Containing pigmented shea butter.
Oil (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Suitable for leave-on, rinse-off.
Red 30 (C.I. 73360) (and) Carmine (C.I. 75470) (and) Benzoic Acid (and)
Dehydroacetic Acid

captivates™ visible 750–1000 Water (Aqua) (and) Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (and) Gelatin (and) hair shine bubble capsule
HC4408 Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Benzoic Containing Si-Tec™ PTM 1000 for hair shine.
Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid Colorless capsule for air bubble effect.
Suitable for rinse-off, leave-on formulations.

captivates™ approximately 1300 Water (Aqua) (and) Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract (and) Algin (and) C.I. exfoliation bead
GL7833 77007 (Ultramarines) (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Calcium Blue capsules filled with bamboo particles
Chloride (and) Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) (and) Hydrochloric Acid released on dem. Suitable for rinse-off, leave-
on formulations.

captivates™ approximately 1000 Water (Aqua) (and) C.I. 77288 Chromium Oxide Green) (and) Algin (and) color burst bead
GL7542 Calcium Chloride (and)Phenoxyethanol (and) Agar (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Universal Green. The capsules break during
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide usage, color the foam green. Suitable for
rinse-off formulations.

30
trade name size (microns) INCI description/benefits
captivates™ approximately 1000 Water (Aqua) (and) Algin (and) C.I. 73360 (Red 30) (and) Calcium Chloride color burst bead
GL7990 (and) Gellan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol Universal Red. The capsules break during
(and) PVPv usage, color the foam red. Suitable
for rinse-off applications.

captivates™ approximately 1000 Water (Aqua) (and) C.I. 77007 (Ultramarines) (and) Algin (and) Calcium color burst bead
GL7975 Chloride (and) Gellan Gum (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Universal Blue. The capsules break during
Butylated PVP usage, color the foam blue. Suitable
for rinse-off formulations.

captivates™ approximately 1300 Water (Aqua) (and) Mica (and) C.I. 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and) color shift capsules
GL7620 Phenoxyethaol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Algin (and) Hydroethylcellulose White capsules that transition to pink
(and) Calcium Chloride (and) Gellan Gum (and) C.I. 73360 (Red 30) (and) on rub out. Suitable for rinse-off,
Glycerin (and) PVP leave-on formulations.

captivates™ approximately. 3500 Water (Aqua) (and) C.I. 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and) Algin (and) C.I. 73360 pink shimmer capsules
GL7878 (Red 30) (and) Phenoxyethaol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Chondrus Crispus Releases pink pearlescent shimmer on rub out.
(Carrageenan) (and) Calcium Chloride (and) Glycerin (and) PVP Suitable for leave-on formulations.

captivates™ approximately 1300 Water (Aqua) (and) Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) (and) Phenoxyethanol stard gold capsules
GL7615 (and) Agar (and) Mica (and) Potassium Chloride (and) C.I. 77891 (Titanium Suitable for rinse-off formulations,
Dioxide) (and) C.I. 77491 (Iron Oxides) (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Silica (and) hair styling gels.
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glucose (and) Tin Oxide
regional centers The information contained in this document the
various products described are intended for use
North America
only by persons having technical skill at their
Bridgewater, NJ USA
Tel: +1 800 505 8984 own discretion risk after they have performed
necessary tests evaluations of the products
Europe
their uses. All statements, information data
Switzerland
Tel: +41 52 560 55 00 presented herein are believed to be accurate
reliable, but are not to be taken as a guarantee,
Middle East, Africa
an express warranty, or an implied warranty
Turkey
Tel: +90 216 538 08 00 of merchantability or fitness for a particular
purpose, or representation, express or implied,
China
for which Ashl its subsidiaries assume legal
Shanghai
Tel: +008621-60906606 responsibility. A purchaser must make its own
determination of a product’s suitability for
India
purchaser’s use, the protection of the environment,
Mumbai
Tel: +91 22 61484646 the health safety of its employees customers. We
make no warranty against infringement of any
Asia Pacific patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any product
Singapore, Tel: +65 6775 5366 or formulation described in this document.
Latin America
Brazil, Tel: + 5511 3649 0455

ashland.com/haircare

®
Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries,
registered in various countries
™
Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in
various countries
trademark owned by third party
*

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2019, Ashland / PHC17-1025.3