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To get a better understanding of bun dau mam tom, Trung Huong on Phat Loc
Alley in Hoan Kiem District is the place to go.
At noon on a sunny day, the acclaimed restaurant is filled with hungry
customers. The alley was full of motorbikes. Inside, there was only one table
left as the the busy staff quickly clean it up for the next guests.
“The fried tofu and shrimp paste here are different from other places.
Although the price is a little bit higher than average, the food here is worth it,”
said Trung Anh, a food enthusiast and frequent customer.
Dang Thi Huong has been making and selling bun dau mam tom for over 30
years. She first started selling the dish when Vietnam’s economy was still in
the subsidy period. She then opened her diner down a small alley in 1995, and
only serves the signature dish.
“The charm and beauty of bun dau mam tom will always be the fried tofu and
shrimp paste no matter what is added to the dish,” Huong said.
Eat like a connoisseur
So what makes the dish here famous? According to Huong, customers love the
fried tofu.
“Never cut the tofu in half before frying it. I always fry the whole bar of tofu.
That way the tofu is always crispy on the outside and tender on the inside,”
Huong said.
Bun is the white, soft rice noodles, which are very popular in Vietnam. A
dipping sauce makes it even more enjoyable.
Dau is tofu in Vietnamese. The tofu is deep fried until the outside is yellow but
the inside is still white and juicy.
The main flavor to this signature dish is mam tom, fermented shrimp paste
sauce. The sauce creates a sweet and savory flavor combined with the
spiciness of chili.
“Each cook has their own secret way of making shrimp sauce, and mine is no
exception. That’s what makes us stand out from the rest,” Huong said.
If you want to sample a dish, try Trung Huong. A signature, modern version
will cost you VND60,000 ($2.60).
About the origins of bun dau mam tom are unknown, one thing is for sure. It
has become an important part of the culture in Hanoi, thanks to people like
Huong, who have kept the art, passion and legacy going.
Trung Huong’s Bun Dau Mam Tom
Opening hours: 7.00 a.m. – 9.00 p.m.
Price: VND20,000 – VND60,000 ($0.90 - $2.60)
Tel: 024 3926 0662