Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve

Formal Men’s Shirt

byPrasanta Sarkar-December 17, 2011
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Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation breakdown is made by engineer.

Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled
operator is given to do operations one by one.

5 to 10 samples are studied.

Mens Shirt (Image source:dk.gant.com)

All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all
operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal
Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of
a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software.

The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM
reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes
styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by
the operator and machine type. 

Product: Full Sleeve Men’s Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow 

Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.
Sl. No. Operation List SAM
1 Pinning to profile 0.234
2 Run stitch collar 0.219
3 Trim collar 0.285
4 Clip and turn collar 0.223
5 Crease collar 0.381
6 Top stitch collar 0.42
7 Run stitch (R/s) collar band 0.291
8 Crease collar band 0.317
9 Insert collar in neck band 0.799
10 Turn and crease collar 0.452
11 Attach bias piece to cuff 0.874
12 Crease cuff 0.458
13 Hem cuff 0.501
14  R/s cuff 0.565
15 Trim cuff 0.36
16 Turn cuff 0.527
17 Crease cuff bottom 0.566
18 Attach placket to sleeve 0.795
19 Lock and make diamond 1.026
20 Sew pleats (4 no.) 0.389
21 Hem right front 0.494
22  Attach front placket 0.603
23 Crease pocket 0.542
24 Hem pocket mouth 0.28
25 Attach pocket to front 0.861
26 Attach brand label and tack loop 0.589
27 Crease patch pieces 0.236
28 Attach patch piece 0.333
29 Sew pleats 0.278
30 Attach yoke to back 0.475
31 Top stitch back yoke 0.365
32 Join shoulder 0.64
 33 Top stitch shoulder 0.656
34 Attach collar 0.535
35 Close collar with size label 1.01
36 Sleeve attach 0.862
37 Top stitch armhole 0.678
38 Top stitch side seam 1.036
39 Attach & close cuff 0.696
40 Top stitch cuff 0.524
41 Hem bottom 0.947
Total SAM 22.322

Related Articles:
Operation breakdown, SMV and layout of
Shirt Manufacturing
The shirt is one of the commonly worn dress all over the world. For a target level of
garments manufacturing, you need to identify the operation breakdown, manpower
requirement, and machine requirement. So that you can do proper production planning.
Here in this article, we will share Operation breakdown, SMV and layout of Shirt
Manufacturing where Total SMV is 33.84, manpower requirement is 100 and the total
machine required 81 unit.
Operation breakdown, SMV and layout of Shirt
Manufacturing
 Working Hour: 1
 Efficiency: 28
 Pitch Time: .31
 Target: 55

Seq. Body Operation Resource SMV Target Cycle Layout

No Part (100%) Time(s) MP
1 Placket Fusing attach at front Assistant 0.42 143 25.20 1
placket Operator

2 Placket Front placket mark n Sewing 0.75 80 45.00 2

press Iron
3 Placket Placket make upper SNL Auto 0.54 111 32.40 2

4 Placket Placket make Lower SNL Auto 0.54 111 32.40 2

5 Placket Upper placket 1/4 top- SNL Auto 0.48 125 28.80 2
stitch
6 Placket Deco. Placket press Sewing 0.38 158 22.80 1
Iron
7 Assembly Front n back part match Assistant 0.28 214 16.80 1
Operator
8 Assembly Shoulder join with/ 4T OL 0.30 200 18.00 1
without tape Auto
9 Assembly Shoulder topstitch 1NDL FL 0.28 214 16.80 1

10 Collar Fusing attach at Sewing 0.42 143 25.20 2

collar/collar stand Iron
11 Collar Collar mark Assistant 0.20 300 12.00 1
Operator
12 Collar Collar make SNL-VT 0.83 72 49.80 3

13 Collar Corner cut n turn collar Assistant 0.30 200 18.00 1

Operator
14 Collar Collar 1/4 topstitch SNL Auto 0.58 103 34.80 2

15 Collar Collar edge close n cut SNL-VT 0.28 214 16.80 1

16 Collar Collar band rolling SNL Auto 0.38 158 22.80 1

17 Collar Mark n arrange match Assistant 0.35 171 21.00 1

collar with band Operator
18 Collar Collar attach with collar SNL-VT 1.08 56 64.80 3
band sandwich stitch
19 Collar Collar band turn n press Sewing 0.35 171 21.00 1
with necessary scissoring Iron
20 Collar Collar n neck mark SNL Auto 0.32 188 19.20 1

21 Collar Attach collar to body SNL Auto 0.65 92 39.00 2

22 Collar Collar close SNL Auto 0.75 80 45.00 2

23 Collar Collar band topstitch SNL Auto 0.56 107 33.60 2

24 Sleeve Sleeve side seam 4T OL 0.55 109 33.00 2

Auto
25 Sleeve Sleeve side seam 2T FL 0.62 97 37.20 2
topstitch Auto
26 Assembly Side seam join 4T OL 0.55 109 33.00 2
Auto
27 Label Care Label make SNL Auto 0.24 250 14.40 1

28 Label Care label tack at side SNL Auto 0.26 231 15.60 1

29 Sleeve Sleeve & Body sticker SNL Auto 0.56 107 33.60 2
match & Sleeve tack
30 Sleeve Sleeve attach round 4T OL 1.00 60 60.00 3
Auto
31 Back Part Bottom hem edge rolling SNL Auto 0.75 80 45.00 2

32 Placket Sleeve mark for placket Assistant 0.44 136 26.40 2

Operator
33 Sleeve Sleeve cut for placket Assistant 0.40 150 24.00 1
Operator
34 Sleeve Sleeve lower placket Flat Bed 0.41 146 24.60 2
binding n trims
35 Placket Secure placket base SNL Auto 0.30 200 18.00 1

36 Placket Sleeve upper placket Sewing 0.42 143 25.20 2

fusing attach n half fold Iron
37 Placket Upper placket attach n SNL Auto 1.00 60 60.00 3
1/16 topstitch
38 Placket Sleeve upper placket SNL Auto 0.80 75 48.00 3
close
39 Placket Upper placket 1/16 SNL Auto 0.56 107 33.60 2
topstitch
40 Placket Sleeve placket fishtail SNL Auto 0.72 83 43.20 2
secure
41 Placket Sleeve placket box make SNL Auto 1.08 56 64.80 3

42 Placket Pleat make with mark at SNL Auto 0.64 94 38.40 2

sleeve opening
43 Cuff Fusing attach at cuff Assistant 0.28 214 16.80 1
Operator
44 Cuff Cuff rolling SNL Auto 0.45 133 27.00 2

45 Cuff Cuff mark n make SNL Auto 0.95 63 57.00 3

46 Cuff Cuff turn n press with Sewing 0.40 150 24.00 1

necessary scissoring Iron
47 Cuff Cuff mark n match Assistant 0.40 150 24.00 1
arrange with body Operator
48 Assembly Cuff attach at sleeve SNL Auto 0.83 72 49.80 3
opening
49 Cuff Cuff close SNL Auto 0.96 63 57.60 3

50 Cuff Cuff top-stitch SNL Auto 0.75 80 45.00 2

51 Assembly Sticker remove and Assistant 0.26 231 15.60 1

GMTs turn Operator
52 Assembly Button hole position Assistant 0.78 77 46.80 2
mark Operator
53 Placket Button hole make at BH Auto 0.54 111 32.40 2
Sleeve placket X4
54 Placket Button hole make at BH Auto 1.26 48 75.60 3
front placket X9
55 Assembly Button position mark Assistant 0.98 61 58.80 3
Operator
56 Placket Button attach at placket BA Auto 1.20 50 72.00 3
X9 + Spare X1
57 Sleeve Button attach at sleeve BH Auto 0.48 125 28.80 2
placket X4
58 Assembly Button close Assistant 0.55 109 33.00 2
Operator
59 Assembly Thread trims Assistant 0.45 133 27.00 2
Operator
– – – Total 33.84 – – 110

SMV Summary of Shirt Manufacturing

Sewing Helper 8.81

Sewing Machine 25.03
Sewing QI 0.00
Finishing I/M 0.00
Finishing QI 0.00
Poly Helper 0.00
Packing 0.00
Hand Tag 0.00
Total 33.84
Man Power Summary of Shirt Manufacturing

Sewing Helper 29
Sewing Machine 81
Sewing QI 0
Finishing I/M 0.00
Finishing QI 0
Poly Helper 0
Packing 0
Hand Tag 0
Total 110
Machine Summary of Shirt Manufacturing

SNL Auto 51
4T OL Auto 8
1NDL FL 1
SNL-VT 7
 2T FL Auto 2
Flat Bed 2
BH Auto 7
BA Auto 3
Total 81

Machine Layout of Basic Polo Shirt in Apparel

By Noor Ahmed Raaz | July 27, 2017
0 Comment
Machine Layout of Basic Polo Shirt in Apparel
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (CU)
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: raju.uttara105@gmail.com

Machine Layout:
The sewing machine is an essential element in the apparel industry. The
performance of sewing machine directly related to sewing operation. Before
the sewing operation, we have to ensure machine layout in a sewing floor.
Generally machine layout depends on order quantity, order style, lead time, etc.
Here I am trying to show up basic polo shirt machine layout.
Different parts of basic polo shirt

Machine Layout of Basic Polo Shirt:

Normally six types of machines are used in making basic Polo Shirt. They are
such as plain machine (Single Needle), over the edge (Over lock), Button
holing, Button attaching, Bar Tack and Flat lock (Flatbed). But multiple uses, one
machine can be used different operation in sewing floor. Here given a machine
layout for basic polo shirt-
S/L No. of
No. Operation Used Machine Machine
1 Main Level Join Plain M/C 1

2 Moon Tuck Plain M/C 1

3 Moon Top Seem Flat Lock M/C 1
4 Shoulder Join Over Lock M/C 2
5 Shoulder Top Seem Flat Lock M/C 1
6 Pocket Hem Flat Lock M/C 2
 7 Pocket Join Plain M/C 2
8 Placket Rolling Plain M/C 1
9 Placket Servicing Over Lock M/C 1
Lower
Placket Join+
10 Placket Top Seem Plain M/C 1
11 Nose Tuck Plain M/C 1
12 Collar Servicing Over Lock M/C 1
9 Plain machine Care label join 1
10 Over lock Side seam 3
11 Plain machine Sleeve tack 2
12 Plain machine Sleeve soap tack 2
13 Flat lock Body hem 2
Total Machine 26
Speech from the writer:

If you read this article with full concentration, then you can easily answer the
following questions-

27 Parts of a Sewing Machine With Details

What is a Sewing Machine?
A sewing machine is a unique designed machine that is used for stitching different parts
of fabric together to make garments products. It is used in both the lather and apparel
industries. The main functions of the sewing machine are sewing fabric or any other
parts of the materials.

Our study found that about 27 Parts of a sewing machine. Earlier people used to sew by
hand but after the industrial revolution mechanical machine was created which is a
handheld. Because of continuous development now we have automated one both for
home and industrial use.

Common Sewing Machine Parts and Functions

Although basic sewing functions remain the same, the pattern of stitches is different.
You can put different types of stitch by the modern machine. For well-finished garments,
you need to buy a good quality machine, either you can buy a manual or automated.
For personal use, people used to buy a handheld machine.

Now with a modern machine, you can not only sew your cloth but also can do
embroidery. A good quality thread is required for getting better finishing and strength.

Choice of Right Brand of Sewing Machine

You may think about what brand you should choose among available brands. My
suggestion is, first determines the purpose and then decide the purchase decision.
There are many popular brands available out there.
If it is for home use, then the singer machine you can purchase. For industrial garments
production Juki, Janome and Brother these two brands are highly used all over the
world because of its good quality.

Therefore, to get long-term service from a sewing machine, you have to ensure regular
cleaning and maintenance. Put lubricants or oil into the required parts which are
functional. Sewing Machine Parts can be imported from China, Europe or buy from the
local market. Needle, bobbin, bobbin-case, oil, and lubricants are commonly needed
parts and require regular maintenance.

List of All the Parts of a Sewing Machine with Picture

All parts of the sewing machine with pictures are giving below for your better
understanding.

1. Balance Wheel
2. Bobbin Winder
3. Face Plate Thumb Screw
4. Feed Dog
5. Needle Bar Bushing
6. Needle Bar Thread Guide
7. Needle Clamp Thumb Screw
8. Needle Clamp
9. Needle
10. Presser Bar Lifter
11. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
12. Presser Foot
13. Pressure Regulating Thumb Screw
14. Spoon Pin
15. Tension Discs
16. Tension Spring
17. Thread Guide
18. Thread Take-Up Lever
19. Thread Take-Up Spring
20. Throat Plate
21. Stitch Indicator Plate
 22. Stitch Regulator
23. Stitch Regulator Thumb Screw
24. Bobbin Winder Thread Tension
25. Bobbin Winder Spool Pin
26. Needle Plate
27. Bobbin Case
28. Bobbin

Here, we are giving details of 14 common parts of a sewing machine which we found
coHere, the details of 14 common parts of a sewing machine among 27 parts which we
found common parts of a singer sewing machine, Juki sewing machine.

Balance Wheel

In a traditional handheld machine and in a semi-auto machine, you can see that there is
a wheel on the top right corner of a sewing machine. Basically, it is used to run the
machine manually.
Needle

A needle is a sharp metal, very sharp in nature which has a small hole (eye) in which a
thread goes through. Basically, a needle is used for sewing. A needle consists of 5
parts. They are a shank, Shaft, Front Groove, Point Scarf, and eye. However, for woven
fabric and denim, lather, knit fabric, different types of Needle are used and Needle
made of steel coated with chrome or titanium.

Different Size of Sewing Machine Needle

According to the purpose, Different sizes of a needle are used for different types of
fabric.

Sourcing of Needles

The needle is mainly sourced from China because of a cheap price. So you can also
source it locally if the order quantity is less.
Spool Pin

A spool pin is placed vertically or horizontally which actually used for holding the spool
of threads and this is a fixed part of a sewing machine.

Bobbin

A bobbin is one of an integral part and it is non-electrical parts. Bobbins can be found in
different electric devices. In a bobbin, threads are wired which is used for sewing. You
need to set the required thread into a bobbin. After finishing you have to refill the
bobbin.

Sourcing of Bobbin

There are many popular brands of bobbin manufacturer, you can collect bobbin from
them. You can source either by importing or if locally available then purchase it locally
because it will be cheaper. Different manufacturers of sewing machine bobbins are:

1. Brother
2. Juki
3. Janome
4. Singer
5. Boby Lock
6. Bernina
7. Consew
8. Elena
9. Kenmore
10. Riccar
11. Handi Quilter

Bobbin Holder

Bobbin holder is used to holding the bobbin into the machine. Bobbin holder also is
known as the bobbin case which is one of the key parts. Time to time you may need to
conduct cleaning and maintenance of the bobbin case. It is one of the commonly used
spare parts.

Presser Foot

A presser foot is used to hold the fabric in the right place on the throat plate so that
fabric cannot slip around. Sometimes it may require to change the pressure foot if you
use your machine for commercial garments production or small household business.
Tension Discs and Tension Spring

The tension discs used to control the thread tension to give proper stitch on the fabric. If
there is a problem of tension then you may see that stitch is not placing properly, it may
loose or tight. A tension spring is added to control the pressure so that two different
fabrics can join together with proper stitch. Tension discs and spring may need to
change if it is damaged. Sourcing options are local or source it from China or any other
region if you need a large quantity.

Remember that you have to clean dust from time to time from the tension discs
otherwise, you will get an improper stitch on the fabric.

Face Plate Thumb Screw

The faceplate thumb screw is used for attaching the faceplate of a sewing machine. You
may find it a traditional machine but normally this part is not required to replace it.

Thread Guide

Thread guide is a small part of a machine that has a hole inside, is responsible for
properly guide the threads from the spool pin to the hole of a needle. Thread guide is
made of steel or metal.

Throat Plate

The throat plate is placed between the pressure foot and bobbin case. This plate also is
known as a needle plate. It is made of metal and at the time of sewing, a pressure foot
is placed on top of the throat plate.

Stitch Indicator Plate

Stitch Indicator plate indicates the stitching type where different stitching number is
written. This plate is a fixed part of the machine that is not required to change but you
should clean the surface of the plate so that the written number is visible.
Stitch Regulator

By using a stitch regulator, you can regulate the type of stitch on the fabric. In
accordance with your requirements, you can switch into a different stitch or adjust your
sewing stitch.

Bobbin Winder

Bobbin winder basically ensures the right direction of the threads from the spool to the
bobbin. An automated mechanical process works inside the machine.

Feed Dog

Feed dog helps to feed the fabric to the required direction, either backward or forward
using its teeth. It is a metal-based product. Normally it is not a visible part of a machine.
But if you look closely into the needle plate then you can see. If the feed dog is
damaged then you must need to change it.

Maintenance of Sewing Machine

Finally, a machine should be properly maintained to get long-lasting service. If you do
not clean and add lubricant properly then you may find a technical problem or not
functioning properly. Different defects you may identify and how you can ensure
proper maintenance?

1. First, read the manual provided with the machine and follow the guidelines for setting
and start sewing.
2. Please clean after using it if there is any dust.
3. Do not give extra pressure if a thread is stuck in the bobbin case
4. Use good quality accessories
5. Regularly put good quality lubricants to the right place

Please note that, before purchasing check the seller’s background, years of experience,
and customer feedback. So that you can select the right supplier.

In conclusion, if you think you have any confusion or you want to add value to this
article then please let me know.
Types of Stitch Used in Garments Sewing
What is Stitch? A stitch is a Loops or loops of one or more threads when bound with
each other, either by interlacing, interloping or intra-looping or combination of those
when sewing fabric and each unit of such configuration is considered as a stitch. In this
article, we will share details of different types of stitch used in garments sewing.

Terminology Related with Different Types of Stitch in Garments

Three-term related to stitch

1. Interlacing
2. Interlooping
3. Intralooping

Interlacing

During stitching when one loop of one thread passes over another loop of another tread
is called interlacing.

Interlooping

During stitching when a loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread is
called interloping.
Intralooping

When a loop one thread passes through the loop of the same tread during sewing is
called intra-looping.

Types of Stitch Used in Garments Sewing

There are about 70 types of stitches are available and among them, 18-20 types of
stitches are widely used in garments industries, also 2 to 3 types of stitches are used in
making of garments for tailoring and domestic purpose.
British standard 3870: part1:1991 have been classified according to ISO 4915:1991 into
six basic types of stitch.

1. Stitch class 100: Chain stitch

2. Stitch class 200: Hand stitch
3. Stitch class 300: Lock stitch
4. Stitch class 500: Overedge stitch
5. Stitch class 600: Covering chain stitch

Stitch Class 100: Chain Stitch

 Stitches are formed by intra-looping

 Each loop is interconnected with the same thread
 There is no lower thread
  The needle carries the thread through the fabric and looper holds the thread to enter as
it descends for the next stitch
 Security of stitch is very poor, in case of breakage of one stitch, it unravels very easily
 One or more needle thread is used for stitch formation
 From opposite sides, it looks different

Application of Chain Stitch

 Temporary stitching (e.g. basting) or for blind stitching

 Uses for buttonholing, button attaching, hemming

Stitch Class 200: Hand Stitch

 Originally made by hand, now can be formed by machine

 Looks like domestic hand stitch
 It is produced from a single thread passed from one side of the material to the other side
with each successive penetration of the needle
 This type of stitch is formed by a special type of needle and sewing machine
 The needle is double pointed with Centre eyed
Uses Hand Stitch

 The lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes

Lapel
A stripe of cloth is part of the front of the jacket or coat

Disadvantages Hand Stitch

 Time-consuming process
  Higher cost
 Speed of sewing m\c is very slow
 Rare in use

Stitch Class 300: Lock Stitch

 Lock stitch requires at least two threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from
the top & a lower thread that feeds from the bobbin.
 Needle threads are passed through the fabric & are interlaced by the bobbin threads.
 A rotary hook catches the needle threads loop as it passes around the bobbin &
interlocks the two threads.
 The appearance of the lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric; it is a special
feature.
 Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.
 Stitches are secured and security of stitches can be increased by back tacking at
starting and finishing ends.
 Abrasion resistance of lock stitch is better because the stitches are embedded in the
fabric.

Uses of Lock Stitch

 Joining of facing, collar, pocket & other parts

 Especially for topstitching
 Both for domestic and industrial purposes

Stitch Class 400: Multi Thread Chain Stitch

 Multi-thread chain stitch requires one or more needle that forms loops as they pass
through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside
 Threads are bound tighter by interlacing & inter-looping
 It looks lock stitch at the top side & double chain at the underside
 Looper thread is supplied from cone
 Need not back tacking at the starting & finishing ends.
Multi-Thread Chain Types of Stitch  Used  in  Garments

 Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing such as denim, attaching lace, elastic.

Stitch Class 500: Over Edge Stitch

 Stitches are formed by two or more group of threads

 Formed from one or two needle threads with a looper thread
 At least one group of threads pass around the edge of the material
  Width of the fabric may vary from 3-5 mm
 Prevents the fabric from fraying
 They have high elasticity
 They cannot be unraveled easily

Uses of Over Edge Types of Stitch  in  Garments

 Widely used for knit fabric

 Used for decorative purpose
 Joining of the side seam, armhole of a shirt
 Inseam, out-seam of a pant

Stitch Class 600: Covering Chain Stitch

 Stitches are generally formed with three groups of threads

 One thread is needle thread, other is the looper thread & another is the top cover
threads
 Stitches of this class are the most complex of type it may need up to 9 threads
 Covering chain stitches are often called flat lock or flat seam stitches.
Uses of Covering Chain Stitch  Types  of  Stitch  in  Garments

 Mainly used for knitted apparels

 Attaching lace, elastic, etc.
 Decorative purpose in apparels

Overall Types of Stitch in Garments (Basic Shirt)

Shirt Making: Process Flow Chart for Sewing
Operations of Formal Shirts
byPrasanta Sarkar-November 25, 2013
Advertisement

The shirt is one of the most basic garments in men clothing. Shirts are categorized as formal
shirts and casual shirts. In this article, you will learn the process flow of shirt making from
the cutting process to the shirt finishing process. I will show you the flow of operations in a
chart with operation details of a formal shirt.
One who is new to garment manufacturing and wants to start a shirt manufacturing
business would be interested to know, how to make a shirt.

Here 'operation' means the name of a job or task applied to prepare shirt components and
assemble shirt.

The shirt you wear has a number of components that are joined together by means of
stitches. Stitches are made by using sewing machines. A number of seam types are used to
construct a shirt. Depending on the machine availability seam types in shirt may vary.

In the following, I have listed operations that are commonly used in mass production using
industrial sewing machines. Read types of machines used for shirt making.

For your better understanding of the construction of a formal shirt, I have listed operation
name part wise. Following table shows operations with a sequence number. 

Table: Sewing Operations of a Formal Shirt

Process Flow chart of Sewing Operations: 

The process flow chart of a formal shirt sewing is shown in the following diagram. Numbers
inside the circles represent operation name those are shown in the above table. Shirt parts
are prepared first and later those parts are assembled one by one.
Do you still have any question on how a shirt is made? Drop your comments below. I will
answer your question.
How to Do Sequencing of Stitching Operations in a
Garment
byPrasanta Sarkar-September 25, 2017
Advertisement

A complete garment is stitched by following the sequence of a number of operations. You

can’t make the correct garment just by stitching garment components together randomly.
Sewing operators need to follow the garment construction sequence to produce the desired
product with correct measurement, fit and shape. Industrial engineers prepare the garment
operation bulletins and list down the operations in the best possible sequence that to be
followed in a production line.

I am writing this post to answer the following question. This post is more a one to one reply.
Considering you are a beginner in garment production, you will also find helpful and
valuable content in this post

The question and request -

  I am working in a garment factory that makes ladies fashion, semi-formal basic shirts. I am
new to garment industry and am working as an industrial engineer. I am facing difficulty in
making operation bulletin and preparing the operation sequence. Can you please provide me
an operation bulletin for ladies basic shirts, semi-formal shirts, and tunic?

This is not happening with you only. Many young graduates join the garment industry
without having prior training on preparing operation bulletin and face such challenges at
work in the initial days. But you don’t need to worry about this. You can learn how to do
things that you need to perform at your workplace and you can master yourself on your job
day by day. You just need a learning attitude. 

I have already posted and shared operation bulletins (OB) of many apparel products. You
can refer those sample operation bulletins for learning various kind of operations involved
in different apparel products and possible sequence of operations within the style.
 As you said, you are new to industrial engineering job and also you don’t have prior
education on apparel production and garment manufacturing technology, you are at the
learning stage. If I give you a couple of operation bulletins of the requested products, you
will put less effort on your work in learning, you might copy it and use it in your factory by
modifying some operations. That is not bad but I want you to learn things by doing. If you
can make OB of t-shirt and shirt, you can also make the OB for the ladies basic
shirt/tunic/semi-casual shirt.

How to that?

You have emphasized on the sequencing of the operations in operation bulletin. I will focus
on that part of this article.

You need to study the garment construction. If you have access to the sampling room in
your factory, take help from the sampling team to learn the product construction for the
upcoming styles. If the style is already running on the production floor, spend time on the
floor and follow the sequence of operations performed by the operators to construct the
complete garment.

Operation sequencing is part of making an operation bulletin. Preparation of an operation

bulletin involved two activities-

1. Preparation of the operation breakdown - I mean making the list of all operations
involved in making the product.
2. Estimating SMV of garment operations. 
Operation sequencing method
Follow the below steps to make the OB yourself.

 Pick one sample garment

 Identify garment components. Like in a formal shirt garment components are -
Collar, Cuff, front, back, and chest pocket. 
 Prepare a list of operations in the sample garment component-wise. In case you
unable to identify components, just list down operations. 
 Group operations by garment components - if you find difficulty understanding any
seam /operations, discuss with the line supervisor or sampling master. They can guide you
in understanding the garment construction. 
 Then think of the logical sequence of making or stitching the garment. Visualize how
operators will make the sample garment. If there is more than one operation in a seam –
what operation should come prior to another? If you need, open the garment seam and
look inside how the garment components are joined together and possible sequence of
operations inside the seam.
 Now place all operations in a sequence as per your understanding (don't worry if
something goes wrong). You can later change the operation sequence by observing the
process sequence on the shop floor. 

You are done. See the following example of operation sequencing.

For the other parts of the OB making, you need to learn some calculation methods other
than estimating operation SAM. Those are - estimated manpower calculated, estimated
machine requirement, hourly target, actual manpower to be allocated depending on the
production requirement and line balancing etc. I have elaborated these calculations in my
article How to make operation Bulletin.
Operation of Sewing Section | Process Breakdown
of Basic Shirt
18/06/2017 by Mazharul Islam Kiron

Last Updated on 15/12/2020

Operation of Sewing Section | Process Breakdown of Basic Shirt

Mohammad Sajjadul Karim Bhuiyan
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Email: sajjadulkarim7@gmail.com

Sewing section:
The sewing process is the attachment of different parts of the cut pieces. In this
work place there are many operators who perform single operation. All this factor
decides what parts of garment can be sewn at that station. Sewing section is the
most importat department in apparel industry.

Fig: Sewing section

Machine used in the sewing section:

1. Single Needle Lock Stitch machine

2. Double needle Lock stitch machine
3. Vertical Lock stitch machine
4. Single needle Chain Stitch machine
5. Pointer (collar, cuff)
6. Halamark m/c
7. Overclock Machine (5Thread)
8. Feed off the Arm machine
9. Flat bet fusing machine
10. Continuous fusing Machine
11. Kansai machine etc.

Process flow of sewing section:

 Fig:
Diagram in how sewing section perform

Working way of sewing floor:

Product Analysis and set up target for Line: Here usually find the critical
operation of the product by analyzing the product and decide where need help,
which operator works on which operation. After analyzing the product line target
is set for per hour production. Line supervisor monitoring target production
achieving or not.

Set up machine layout on the basis of Target: On the basis of operation

layout and target of per line, machine layout is setup to ensuring target per hour
production.

Line balancing: Line balancing is a tool used for production line to capacitate

the flow line of production. If line is not balanced properly, required target result
will not be achieved properly. Some work have higher work load, some have
lower load which caused bottleneck in the line.

Bundle Input to Line: After ensuring line balancing, bundle wise cut panel
input to line as per pre-determined manner to workers.

Sewing: Workers sew different parts as per pre-determined manner according

to machine layout for ensuring right operation is made by right machine and
right operator.
Online Quality check: In this stage, front and back part sewing quality
checked by on-line quality inspector. If found any defect, send the garment to
that operator who sew the defective for repair the sewing faults.

End line Quality check: Here Full garments of both inside and outside
checked properly to ensure the garments is defect free. If found any defect, repair
that defect by who are responsible for that defect. Here also count the body to
comparing if target is achieved or not.

Body sends to finishing section: After end line quality inspector, garments

are sending to finishing section for finished the body for shipment as per buyer’s
requirements.

Process Breakdown of Basic Shirt (Full Sleeve):

Table – Basic Shirt Manufacturing Process:

SL No.# Process name Machine & Attachment

Collar

1 Collar top part Fusing Continues Fusing m/c

2 Collar finish pattern mark on Collar Pencil and pattern

3 Collar trim Overclock m/c (without thread and needle )

4 Collar run stitch (top and in part) SNLS

5 Collar Turn Hand work

6 Collar point Pointer + Collar stay

7 Collar outline (1/4 top stitch) SNLS

8 Collar band fusing Continuous fusing m/c

9 Collar band hem SNLS

10 Finish pattern mark on collar pattern Pattern .pencil

11 Collar and collar band attach SNLS

12 Collar band turn Hand work

13 Collar band (1/4 top stitch) SNLS

14 Collar Band point Pointer

Cuff

15 Cuff fusing Continuous Fusing machine

16 Cuff hem SNLS

17 Cuff Run stitch Vertical Lock stitch machine

18 Cuff turn in pair Hand word

19 Cuff outline (1/4 top stitch) SNLS

Front part

20 Front Pair tuck + care label joint SNLS

21 Front BTN placket make Kansai machine + folder

22 Front Placket Fusing Flatbed fusing machine

23 Box placket make SNLS + Folder

24 Pocket positioning Pattern

25 PKT Rolling SNLS

26 PKT iron  + scissoring Iron + scissor

27 PKT Attach to front + placket close SNLS

Back part

28 Main and size label joint SNLS

29 Label attach to Bk part SNLS

30 Yoke attach to BK part SNLS

31 Yoke top stitch SNLS

Sleeve part

32 Gamble attach to body SNLS

33 SLV placket fold and iron Iron + folder

34 SLV Placket attach SNLS

Assembly

35 Shoulder Joint SNLS

36 Shoulder top stitch SNLS

37 SLV Joint to body Overlock m/c

38 Armhole Top stitch SNLS + Folder

39 Collar joint to body SNLS

40 Collar Closed SNLS

41 Collar to Stitch SNLS

42 Side seam Feed off the arm machine

43 Cuff attach to SLV SNLS

44 Bottom hem SNLS + Folder

44 BTN Hole BTN Holing Machine

45 BTN Attach BTN Attaching machine

Elements of sewing section:

1. Sewing thread
2. Needle
3. Sewing Machine

Sewing defects:

1. Needle damage
2. Skip stitches
3. Thread breakages
4. Broken stitches
5. Seam puckering
6. Pleated seam
7. Wrong stitch density
8. Uneven stitch density
9. Staggered stitch
10. Improperly formed stitches.

For making a basic shirt, we need 7 types of sewing machines. They

are given below:

1. Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine

2. Over lock or over edge Stitch Machine
3. Button Holing Machine
4. Button Attaching Machine
5. Feed of the Arm
6. Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine
7. Single Needle & Double Needle Chain Stitch Machine (with or without edge
cutter & thread cutting mechanism)

Important sewing machine descriptions are given below:

Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine:

 No. of needle: Generally 1 needle or 2 needles

 SPM (Stitches per Minute): 1500-5500
 Stitch Length: 5mm in Juki
 Automatic Thread Cutting
 Automatic Bobbin Winging
 Edge Cutting System
 Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.

Over lock or Over edge Stitch machine:

 No. of needle: one or 2 needle

 No. of thread: 2-5 threads
 SPM: 6500-8000
 Stitch length: maximum 4mm and stitch length can be changed by push
button.

Button Holing Machine:

 Stitch group: lock or chain stitch

 Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger
 Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.
 Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button
hole.
Button Attaching Machine:

 Productions lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.

 Various types button clamps needs for attaching various sizes and types of
button.
 The bottom may be 2 or 4 holes. 4 whole button may be sewed by cross or
parallel.
 If chain stitch is used, the sewing looks nice, but the security of stitch is
comparatively less.
 In case of lock stitch used no possibility of sewing opening. But not looks
nice. In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the
button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.
 It can attach predetermined number of buttons at a predetermined
distance in acyclic order.

Feed of the Arm:

 Number of needle: 2
 SPM: 3000 -3200
 Number of thread: 4 threads
 Twist per inch: 15 – 20
 Stitch group: chain stitch
 Mainly sewing shirts, Jeans, Gridding goods & double stitching pants

Kansai or Multi needle chain stitch machine:

 Number of needle: 6-17

 Number of thread: 12 – 34
 SPM: 4000 – 4500
 Stitch group: Chain Stitch

Chain Stitch Machine:

 No. of needle: one or more needle

 No. of thread: one or more thread (Single thread or multi thread)
 SPM: 1800-6000
 Stitch length : 1.4 to 4.5 mm
 Automatic thread trimmer
 Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine.
 Used in knitted wear and jeans.

More articles of this author:

Different Parts of a Basic Shirt | Shirt Inspection
Procedure
01/07/2015 by Mazharul Islam Kiron

Last Updated on 02/01/2021

Different Parts of a Basic Shirt | Shirt Inspection Procedure

Noor Ahmed Raaz
Faculty Member, Dept. of Textile Engineering,
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: raju.uttara105@gmail.com

Basic Shirt
A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. There are various types of shirt for
men and women. Basic shirt is one of them. There’s nothing more classic than a
woven collared shirt. This dress has a formal collar, a full-length opening at the
front from the collar to the hem and sleeves with cuffs. In this article, I will
discuss on various parts of basic shirt.

Different Components of a Basic Shirt

 Fig: Components of
a Basic Shirt

Machines required for making

1. Plain (lock stitch) sewing machine

2. Over lock/edge neatening sewing machine
3. Flat lock machine
4. Button holing machine
5. Button attaching machine
6. Feed of the arm m/c

Accessories used for making a shirt

1. Fusible interlining
 2. Sewing thread (40/2 or 40/3 or 50/3): Matching color
3. Label: Main label, size label, care label
4. Button: Plastic or wooden or horn
5. Motif

You may also like: Different Types of Accessories Used in Garments

List of required trimmings

 Neck board
 Back board
 Collar insert: Usually plastic
 Hang tang
 Tag ping
 Price tick
 Tissue paper
 Poly bag
 Butter flies, etc.

Individual parts of basic shirt:

Collar

Fig: Parts
of collar

Pocket styles
 Fig: Pocket styles

Cuff styles and types

Fig: Cuff styles and types

Sleeve styles

Fig: Sleeve styles

Yoke styles

Fig: Yoke styles

 In the first case, yoke and body back part are of one piece of cloth.
 In two pieces and single yoke, a single yoke is attached with the body back
part.
 When two pieces of yoke are attached with the body back part then it is put
in the third category, i.e. two pieces and double yoke.

Bottom styles

Fig: Bottom styles

Shirt inspection procedure:

1. Visually inspect the front of the garment for any defect.

2. Check that the two sides of the shirt are the same length and evenly meet at
the bottom.
3. Check that all buttons line up with their button holes and are properly
placed. (Also, make sure that the number of buttons is correct and that all of
them are securely attached to the garment.)
4. Buttons should be checked for function (button and unbutton to ensure
that no button holes are too small).
5. When checking short-sleeve garments, both arm holes must be checked for
size.
6. Pockets must be checked for shading, tacks, and placement. Crooked or
uneven pockets are unacceptable. Pockets of a patterned fabric must line up
according to the print. (A pocket set even slightly off can be very apparent
when using a patterned fabric.)
7. Garments must be turned inside out and all seams must be checked.
8. Three garments of every size must be measured. (Bust, sweep, collar, yoke,
cuff, arm hole, natural shoulder, and pockets must all be measured and
compared to the specifications of the garment.