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Written in US terminology
Size: 45cm long
Difficulty: beginner
Hi! I’m Hubble :) Yarn weight: double knit (Light Worsted/ 8ply/
I’ll be popping in 11wpi)
to give you extra
tips and
reminders!
The instructions for all of these skills listed
below can be found in the Amigurumi Tips
booklet included with this pattern.

 Working in the round (in a spiral)

 Using a running stitch marker
 Basic sewing
26/10/2018 – Edited wording to make it
 Invisible decrease
easier to read directions for increasing. 2
Body Colour: Miss La Motte, DK merino, 9 SC X 9 rows = 5 X 5 cm swatch
Glace - 62g/130m
Eye Black: Elle Pure Gold, DK acrylic, Hubble is designed to be soft and floppy.
Caviar - 0.5g/1.5m Using the recommended hook size and
Eye White: Elle Pure Gold, DK acrylic, Lily - yarn weight will produce a loose mesh
1.5g/4m making the body squishy and the
Pompom: Combination of Body Colour tentacles floppy.
and White - 6.5g/13.5m
If you’re using a different weight of yarn
to the one suggested, combine it with a
hook 1 size larger than recommended on
the yarn’s tag for the body. For the eyes,
 3mm hook use a hook 2 sizes smaller than the one
 5mm hook you used for the body.
 Scissors
 Yarn sewing needle
 Soft stuffing - approximately 4g
 2 Pins with large head
 45mm pompom maker

TIP: Make all

matching pieces
in the same sitting
R - row/round to avoid tension-
SS - slip stitch related problems
SC - single crochet such as ending up
HDC - half double crochet with 2 different
ch - chain sized eyes.
st - stitch
incr - increase
decr – decrease
SC-incr/decr – single crochet
increase/decrease
* - Section to be repeated
rem - remaining Using different materials may cause your
FLO - front loop only tentacles and legs to curl more than the ones
BLO - back loop only pictured in the pattern. To intentionally
WS - wrong side produce curling tentacles, experiment with
RS - right side smaller hook sizes or thicker yarn.
MR - magic ring 3
When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to
the desired length and then simply pull
the loose end through your current
stitch. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid
making a knot.
Chains and slip stitches do not count as
stitches. Do not include these when
counting your stitches, and do not work
into them unless specifically indicated.
Use soft, springy toy-stuffing for your squid to
keep the body squishy. Only stuff it enough to
shape the body. The stuffing shouldn’t be
tightly compacted and shouldn’t show
between the stitches.
“Incr” means make 2 of the same stitches
into the same space. Ie, “SC-incr” means
work 2SC into the same space.
Similarly, “SC-decr” means SC the next 2
sts together.
“SC-incr X4” for example, means increase
4 times (work 2SC into each of the next 4
spaces).
If you’re making this for a child, please check
your local safety laws pertaining to toys and
age suitability.
This toy has not been safety tested for babies
or young children. Although squids are
becoming more popular as effective therapy
for premature babies, please exercise extreme
caution when giving anything to a baby. Do
not leave a baby unsupervised with this toy for
any length of time.
Ready?
Let’s begin!
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Make 2
Use a 3mm hook
Tie off without a knot, leaving a 30cm thread
for sewing.
R1: Using White, 6SC in magic ring. SS in 1st SC.
(6)
Weave in starting thread at magic ring to
R2: Ch1. SC-incr X6. SS in 1st SC. (12)
secure it, then cut it close to the eye.

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SMILE/SLEEP LINE IN THE EYES
SS in next 4 sts. (4)
Use Black yarn. Insert your hook at any stitch
on R1.

Place Black yarn on your hook with a slip knot.

Tie off without a knot, leaving a 10cm thread.

Pull the loose end through the same space to
the back of the eye.

Draw up the loop of Black yarn through the

eye.

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Tie the Black loose ends together in a secure
knot while keeping the eye flat.
The loose ends may be pulled into the body
later to hide them.

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Make 8
Use a 5mm hook
HDC in 3rd ch from hook.
R1: Using Body Colour, ch32.

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HDC in next 28 ch. Do not count the starting chain as a stitch.

Ch1 and tie off, leaving a 10cm thread to be

tucked inside the body later.

To weave in the loose end that was left

hanging free, sew it in the opposite direction,
into the stitches running down the other side
of the chain (the change in direction will lock
the thread in place).

4HDC in last ch.

Working along the other side of the ch,

starting in the next ch and working the loose
end in as you go, HDC in remaining 29 ch.
Note: Only work over the loose end for about
5 stitches, leaving the remainder of the loose
end hanging free. (62)

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Make 2
Use a 5mm hook

R1: Ch42. HDC in 3rd ch from hook. HDC in

next 38 ch. 4HDC in last ch. Working along the
other side of the ch, HDC in remaining 39 ch.
(82)

Ch1 and tie off, leaving a 10cm thread to be

tucked inside the body later.

Secure the loose end in the same manner as

the legs.
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Use a 5mm hook

R2: SC-incr X4. (8)

R1: 4SC in magic ring. (4)
R3: *SC-incr X2, 2SC* X2. (12)
R4: *SC-incr X2, 4SC* X2. (16)
Continue working in the round and use a
R5: *SC-incr X2, 6SC* X2. (20)
running stitch marker.

Weave in the starting thread at the magic ring

to secure it. You can leave the loose end to be
hidden inside the body.

See the
Amigurumi Tips
booklet on how
to use a running
stitch marker.

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The squid’s body is starting to take shape. Lay R17: *SC-incr, 5SC* X4. (28)
it flat, with the increases of R5 on either side.
Make sure the stitches are right side facing.
This is the correct orientation of the body.

R18-23: 28SC. (28)

R6: 20SC. (20)

R7: *SC-decr, 8SC* X2. (18)
R8: *SC-decr, 7SC* X2. (16)
R9: *SC-decr, 6SC* X2. (14)
R10: *SC-decr, 5SC* X2. (12)

R24: *SC-decr, 5SC* X4. (24)

In the next row, note that when you SS into

each SC, the loops of R24’s stitches remain
easily accessible so that you can work into
them again on R26.

R11: *SC-incr, 2SC* X4. (16) R25: 24SS. (24)

R12: 16SC. (16)
R13: *SC-incr, 3SC* X4. (20)
R14: 20SC. (20)
R15: *SC-incr, 4SC* X4. (24)
R16: 24SC. (24)

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On inspection of your workpiece, see how the
free edge now has a row of SS that sits along-
side the SCs of R24. The inner-most loops that
you can see around the edge of this opening
are the back loops of R24’s stitches.
R27-30: 24SC. (24)
R31: 7SC. Leave remaining sts un-worked. Do
not tie off. Continue from this point after
attaching the eyes.

R26: 24SC in BLO of R24. (24)

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PREPARATION

Flatten and turn the body so that your last

stitch is on the left hand side with the open
end of the body facing you.

Rotate the eyes to be either smiling or

sleeping. Make sure the little crescent shapes
are level with the bottom edge of the body.

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POSITION Check their position and pin the eyes in place.

The “face” is the area below the ridge created

by the slip stitches of R25. Place the eyes
symmetrically on the face. They should be
centered in this block, with a space of 2
stitches between them, leaving 1 stitch on
either side of the face.

Once you have them positioned, insert your

hook from inside the body so it comes out
under the center of the eye.

The eyes must be centered precisely when

Hook the loose ends of Black yarn and pull you attach them to the face. Make sure the
them inside the body. body is flattened perfectly with your last SC
on the left hand side.

When you attach the legs, they will be evenly

distributed across the 12 sts that you can see
at the open edge of the body. If the eyes are
off-center, the legs won’t line up with them.

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 Once you’ve sewn all around the eye, push
your needle through to the inside of the body.

See the
Amigurumi Tips
booklet on how
to sew with a
whip stitch.

SEWING
Secure your sewing with a couple of knots
The eyes are small so pinning may distort hidden behind the eye, then leave the loose
them and interfere with their position. Unpin end inside the body.
each eye before sewing then hold it in place as
you sew.

Sew the second eye in the same manner.

Sew with a whipstitch, working into the

stitches directly beneath the eye (not next to
the eye) to avoid visible sewing stitches.

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Use a 5mm hook R31: Turn the body upside down. Place a leg
with wrong side facing up so that its first and
Continued from where you left off after 7SC last stitch lay on top of your next available
on R31 of the body. stitches on the body.

NOTES:

The 8 legs are shorter than the 2 tentacles.

The legs will be attached first.

Remove the running stitch marker. The row’s

starting position is going to change for R32.

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*Insert your hook through the WS of the 1st st
on the leg, and the RS of the next st on the
body. Work 1SC, joining the pieces.
Continue working through both layers. SC into
the last ch of the leg (the ch that both HDC are
worked into) and the next st on the body.
Lay the loose end from the leg over the open
edge of the body (so it will end up nestled in-
between 2 sts after you work the next st, and
can be tucked into the body later).
SC into the last st on the leg and the next st on
the body.
Tuck the loose end of the leg inside the body.*
One leg is now attached, using 3 sts of the
body.
*Repeat 7 more times so that all 8 legs are
joined and evenly distributed around the
body, using up all 24 sts of the body (3 sts per
leg) and finishing back at the first leg. Check
that all legs are WS facing.
The next st is now stitch number one of R32.
Use a new running stitch marker as you go.
R32: *2SC, SC-decr* X6. (18)
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STUFF THE BODY Attach the tentacles now, in the same manner
as the legs. Lay them on the body with WS
The body should be soft and lightly stuffed. facing and use up 3 sts per tentacle to join
them, working through both layers.
Leave the top part completely empty and flat
from R1-10. Place a couple of handfuls of soft,
springy stuffing inside the body; enough to
pad it but keep the body more flat than round
or sausage-shaped.

Do not compress the stuffing – keep it light

and fluffy. Stuff all the way to the open end of
the body.

SC-decr X4, 1SC. (14)

R33: 3SC.

Check that the tentacles are centered with the

legs. It is possible when working in the round
(in a spiral) that the tentacles may be nudged
off-center due to spiraling.

If this has happened, work your last few

rounds in rows rather than a spiral.

To do this, pull back to the last st of R31. Start

R32 with ch1, SC in next st, and finish the row
with a SS in 1st SC. Begin the next row with ch1
and work your next st in the same st as the SS.
End the row with a SS in 1st SC. Continue in
this manner until the squid is finished.
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R34: SC-decr X7. (7) Sew around the ring one more time to secure
it, then weave in the loose end and finish by
threading it inside the body.

Remove the running stitch marker.

Tie off without a knot, leaving a 20cm

thread. Sew the last row closed by
weaving your needle into the FLO of each
stitch then pulling the opening closed like
a drawstring.

All that’s left to do

now is make my
pompoms!

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 Hold the pieces of the pompom maker
together and then wrap both halves full with
your choice of yarn to make a dense pompom.
The pompoms pictured are made with a
Use a 45mm pompom maker
random combination of White and Body
Make 2
Colour.

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Close the pompom maker and cut the Remove from the pompom maker and trim to
threads all around the circumference. perfect spheres.

Tie the pompom with a 45cm thread to

leave two 20cm tails for attaching it to
the tentacles.

Trimming to
shape is the most ATTACHING THE POMPOMS
time-consuming
part of pompom Separate the tentacles from the legs (the
making. To tentacles are the 2 longer ones).
achieve perfect
spheres, take
your time.

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Thread one of the loose ends into one of Attach both in the same manner.
the stitches at the end of a tentacle.

Tie the loose ends together in multiple,

tight knots to secure the pompom.

Weave the loose ends into the pompom

then trim them to the same length as the
pompom.

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Your squid is complete!

Get
Wishing Starfish’s
pattern for FREE at
Projectarian.com!

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…and as always – a special thank you to the test team at Hooked on Sunshine!

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