Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet

7/16/2020 Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet | Ana White
Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet
SUBMITTED BY ANA WHITE (/USER/1) ON FRI, 02/01/2013 - 13:31
Di iculty: Advanced
Free plans to build a wall corner kitchen cabinet from ana-white.com
We've been working hard up at the Momplex, really trying to get to the point of kitchens up there soon!
But in the meantime, I want to keep the plans coming for you as well!
Upon much requests from you, today's plan (see below) is a corner wall kitchen cabinet that works with
these wall kitchen cabinets. (http://ana-white.com/2013/01/plans/wall-kitchen-cabinet-basic-carcass-
plan) It's important to note that this plan specifically works with a wall cabinet with 11 3/4" width
plywood rips (http://ana-white.com/2013/01/plans/wall-kitchen-cabinet-basic-carcass-plan) to get face
frames to match up perfectly.
https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/wall-kitchen-corner-cabinet 1/27
I also recommend beg/borrow/steal/rent whatever you have to do to get a good table saw for building
this cabinet. The cabinet requires 45 bevel cuts - there's no way around it. If you can't get your hands
on a table saw, I will also be posting a blind corner wall cabinet that will not require any bevel rips.
I hope when you look at this plan, you think, wow, that's actually pretty simple! This plan proved to be
one of the toughest for me on my end ... not because it's complicated, but because I wanted to simplify
it as much as possible.
Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.
Preparation
SHOPPING LIST
1 - sheet 3/4" hardwood cabinet grade plywood (shown in PureBond Oak)

1/2 - sheet 1/4" hardwood cabinet grade plywood for backs and door panel
8' - 1x2s in matching hardwood veneer
6' - 1x3s in matching hardwood veneers (you'll need another 8' for doors if doing
doors)
Edge banding in matching veneer for finishing o shelf fronts
Shelf pins and shelf pin jig for attaching adjustable shelf
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
wood glue
1" finish nails for attaching back

1/2" Overlay Face Frame Concealed Euro Style Hinges (2) - get the ones that attach to
the face frame
CUT LIST
CARCASS CUT LIST

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 12 1/2" x 30" (one edge beveled at 45 degrees, widest width is 12
1/2")
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 32 1/8" x 18 3/4"
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 12 1/4" x 30" (both edges beveled at 45 degrees, widest width is 12
1/4" - cut this from 12 1/2" wide strip - see step 1)
4 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees bevel)
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 15 7/8"
FACE FRAME CUT LIST

2 - 1x3 @ 30", ripped down at a 45 degree bevel to shortest side width of 1 1/2", longest
side width of 2 1/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 12 7/8"
DOOR MADE TO FIT - Overall Dimensions 29" x 13 7/8" x 3/4"
TOOLS
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It
is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions
to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or
debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square a er each step. Always predrill
holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe
excess glue o bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe,
have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
STEP 1
(https://www.ana-white.com/sites/default/files/3154821415_1359754312.jpg)
For this cabinet, I highly recommend a high quality table saw. But you could use a circular saw
that cuts a beveled edge at 45 degrees o square. If you do this, you'll need to clamp a board
to the plywood and follow it to get straight cuts like I do in this video. (http://ana-
white.com/2012/11/how-make-long-cuts-circular-saw)
(http://ana-white.com/2012/11/how-make-long-cuts-circular-saw)
(http://ana-white.com/2012/11/how-make-long-cuts-circular-saw)
For table saw, set bevel to 45 degrees and rip plywood to a 12 1/2" width, with the 12 1/2"
being the longest width on the beveled edge. I highly recommend taking a second to test cut
on scrap before committing to cutting the full sheet. The short beveled edge width is 11 3/4".
Once you have these cuts, you can cut the remaining strip 18 3/4" wide for the top, bottom,
and shelf. The center is scrap, but you may wish to use it for additional shelves.
STEP 2
From the 18 3/4" wide strips, cut two pieces 32 1/8" long. Then from those pieces, mark as
shown in this diagram, and cut out top and bottom. Use this also as a pattern to cut remaining
shelf - it can be a little smaller, especially on the pointed corner ends, as it's just the shelf.
For tops and bottoms, drill 3/4" pocket holes as shown in diagram.
STEP 3
Next attach the sides to tops and bottoms. Drill the 3/4" pocket holes first facing forward for
attaching face frames in later steps. The adjacent cabinet will cover the pocket holes, and if
this is an end cabinet, you will put 1/4" plywood over the end to finish it out.
For bottom shelf, place pocket holes on bottom where they will be hidden. For top shelf, place
pocket holes on top where they will be hidden.
STEP 4
Now add the back. You'll need to rip the back down so both edges are beveled from the
plywood ripped for the sides. Then attach at top and bottom to the top and bottom of the
carcass.
STEP 5
STEP 6
Now let's finish o the back with 1/4" plywood. Just nail and glue in place.
STEP 7
Next, build the face frame.
To keep the look consistent, you'll need to rip the 1x3 boards down to 1 1/2" reveal on the
short side of the rip, beveling the edge at 45 degrees. Do some testing first to make sure your
cuts are accurate. Then build your face frame with glue and pocket holes (3/4" and 1 1/4"
screws). Attach to face of cabinet, with overhangs approximately 1/2" on each side.
STEP 8
For a full overlay door, you'll need room for the door to swing open without hitting and
adjacent cabinet. Build or purchase doors as shown sized above. To attach, you must use 1/2"
Overlay Face Frame Concealed Euro Style hinges, at least two for 30" tall cabinets.
STEP 9
To install, you always start with the corner first and then work your way around. Corners need
to be screwed to a stud in the wall and properly hung. I know these cabinets can get heavy, so
make sure you have adequate support. There will be a 1/2" gap between cabinets to give you
some "wiggle" room in case your walls aren't perfectly square. Just make sure the face frames
line up perfectly. Shim the gap and screw cabinets together from insides. We also like to hide a
few screws to connect face frame to face frame for a seamless look.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of
wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the
wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove
all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color
evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Welcome, I'm Ana White

I build and share smart, stylish diy projects. Since 2009.
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7/16/2020 Wall Kitchen Corner Cabinet | Ana White

SUBMITTED BY ANA WHITE (/USER/1) ON FRI, 02/01/2013 - 13:31

Free plans to build a wall corner kitchen cabinet from ana-white.com

Dimensions shown above.

1 - sheet 3/4" hardwood cabinet grade plywood (shown in PureBond Oak)

1" finish nails for attaching back

CARCASS CUT LIST

FACE FRAME CUT LIST

DOOR MADE TO FIT - Overall Dimensions 29" x 13 7/8" x 3/4"

Help Improve This Plan

Welcome, I'm Ana White

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