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&
DO'S DON'TS

Nai Roberts-Smith, LE
40 Key Do's and Dont's to implement into your
skincare routine in 2020.
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http://labeautyologist.com/

For more skincare tips and

education, follow Nai on Instagram
and Twitter and subscribe to The
Golden Rx on Youtube.

twenty don'ts
twenty do's

“My philosophy, is to integrate the science of clinical skincare, with

the gentle purity of natural ingredients, and to use that knowledge to
strengthen confidence through beauty. Your body is the only place you
have to live. Take care of it. And remember, ‘if it doesn’t feed you, don’t
water it.’ ” – Nai

Los Angeles based esthetician specializing in personalized facial skincare,

body treatments and body waxing, for every skin type, especially
people of color. Resolve hyperpigmentation, clear acne, retexturize
skin, brighten complexion, reduce razor bumps and calm inflammation.
Where science and beauty meet.

Nai Roberts-Smith, LE
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twenty
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Enzymes and acids dissolve the bond
between the skin cells to encourage

do's
skin shedding or “desquamation”.

do's
Here are 20 tips to add and implement
into your skin care routine. All of these
tips have been curated to ensure 2020
is your best glow yet.
Fruit enzymes like papain & bromelain
Chemical
Exfoliants
are perfect for beginners. Salicylic
acid for acne & oily skin. Glycolic
Acid for superficial fine lines & texture. (watch this!)
Lactic acid for hyperpigmentation,
sensitive, dry & combination skin.

#60SecondRule
Hydrated skin is the foundation of
healthy skin. The light, watery texture
Cleanse the face for 60 seconds, with fingers only. This of a toner easily penetrates as
Hydrating Toner
allows the ingredients in the cleanser enough time to
many layers of the outer epidermis
interact with the skin on a deeper level. The result is softer,
as possible. This will also allow for
less congested, more even toned skin.
After Each Step better product penetration, since
the skin is more permeable when
hydrated, and reduces oiliness from
an impaired moisture barrier.

It’s easy to forget one of the

Drink
main functions of the skin is to
participate in the excretory system.

More
A hydrated body is going to look
well hydrated on the outside, too.

Water
When you drink water, the kidneys
and liver perform at a higher level,
allowing your skin to do less work.
(watch this!)

(watch this!)
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Think of it as “taking the day off” -- pollution, SPF, makeup, dust --

it’s got to go. Two cleanses is ideal for the deep pore cleansing
of all skin types. Nighttime is the perfect time to double cleanse.

First, using an oil based cleanser, or natural oil, massage oil onto
a dry face, following the #60SecondRule (or longer!). This breaks
down sebum on the skin. Rinse, then follow with a foaming
cleanser, using the #60SecondRule again. This removes all traces
of impurities in the most gentle way possible.

Double Cleanse

The goal of your morning cleanse is to

Oil Cleanse prepare and protect your skin for the

Cleanse
day. Protect against UV rays & weather
(humidity, cold, dryness etc). The

Day & Night

Oil attracts oil, therefore, an oil
cleanser attracts and dissolves
sebum on the surface of skin and
within the pores. Oil cleansers have
surfactants that bind oil to water for
easy rinsing. Natural oils work well,
too! This can also be a time for a
relaxing facial massage. After 2-3
minutes, you can start to feel oil
purpose of the nighttime cleanse is to
remove the day’s grime. The skin’s cells
regenerate between 11pm-4am. Apply
stronger and thicker products at night
to optimize cell repair.
Protecting your skin against UV Rays is
imperative for skin health. UV rays cause
90% of aging by damaging collagen tissue.

SPF
plugs dislodging. UV rays activate a melanin response in the
(Gross, but cool.)
skin, so its mandatory for treating hyper
pigmentation. SPF should also be worn inside (watch this)
& all year round, because UVA-rays penetrate
windows and clouds. SPF 30-50 is ideal.
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Annual dermatologists visits allow Yearly
Derm
a medical professional to check
for skin cancer or any alarming
skin conditions.
Visits
Changes in moles can be deadly. Use this acronym ABCDE
to recognize when a spot of the skin may be cancerous:
Monitor
Asymmetry - Healthy moles are the same on both sides.
Border - The border of a mole should be well defined. Not
Moles
fading into the surrounding skin.
Color - healthy moles are uniform in color.
Diameter - healthy moles are the size of a pencil eraser or
smaller.
Evolution - Changes in your moles over time are concerning.
Omega Fatty Acids are lipid molecules that
Eat
help keep your skin protected and moisturized.
Unfortunately, the body does not produce them.
Eating a diet rich in salmon, sardines, mackerel,
Healthy Fats walnuts, and almonds insures these vital molecules
are present in the skin. Omega fatty acids can and
should be applied topically as well.
Antioxidants are molecules that protect
against cellular damage and premature
cell death. Pollution, UV rays, and high sugar
intake are all factors that damage cells.
Make niacinamide (vitamin B), vitamin C,
Use & Eat
resveratrol, and other antioxidants your
best friends. Berries, dark leafy greens, all
Antioxidants
have high antioxidant content. If the fruit
or vegetable is brightly colored, there’s
a big chance it contains lots of helpful
antioxidants for skin health.
With a soft touch, the tip of your
fingers are the perfect tools for a
gentle and effective cleanse. Using Cleanse with
Fingers
the #60SecondRule, you’ll cleanse
longer, not harder, to break down
oils, makeup, dirt, and lift dead skin.
No purchase necessary.
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Rome wasn’t built in a say. Neither will your
complexion be. No skincare product

Be Patient
will give you perfectly smooth, acne free
skin in a day, so be patient. It takes 6-8
weeks to see significant changes in the
skin, 12 weeks for dramatic results. Give
your products time to do their job. Apply Thinnest
To Thickest
Watery-like products like toners and essence are always applied first
because they absorb super quickly. Follow with any serum, ideally a

Learn Your
Gluten, corn, dairy, and peanuts hydrating serum to help carry actives deeper into the skin, since the
are the short list of possible skin is more permeable when damp. Next, apply any active serums,

Allergies
&
acne & inflammation triggers. creams or gels. Gel moisturizers are water based, so those go next,
A doctor can perform tests to then heavy creams. Oils are last because they don’t mix with water. It’s

Triggers identify which, if any, specific okay if you don’t use all these products. It’s just a guide. :)
foods are contributing to acne.

Makeup can be way more

difficult to remove that people
realize. A double cleanse

Remove Make-Up
is mandatory for property
cleansing all traces of makeup

Separately
The skin does most of its repairing at night. from the skin and pores. Oil

Occlusives
This means it’s the best time to apply the most cleansers, cleansing balms,
powerful actives in your skincare routine. To micellar water, makeup

at Night
make sure these actives actually are readily
available when the skin cells are ready to use
them, apply a heavier moisturizer, oil, and/or
salve at night. This also reduces transepidermal
water loss (TEWL), or in simpler words, reduces
the ability of water evaporating from the skin’s
surface.
removers are the best options.
Using a regular cleanse twice
is more advisable than a
makeup wipe, but if a wipe is
all you have, go for it.
It can feel convenient to take care of
your skin before your hair, but many of

Wash Your Hair,

the ingredients in shampoos, condition-

Hydration +
OILY SKIN NEEDS WATER, TOO! Most oily skin ers and styling products are comedo-
is also dehydrated skin. When the skin lacks genic, or pore-clogging. Shampoos
Then Your Face&Body
Oily Skin
water, healthy barrier function is impaired, and and conditioners can also contribute
the oil glands will work overtime. To reduce oil to body acne, especially on the upper
production, always use a hydrating toner, serum, back and shoulders.
and/or a gel-like moisturizer.
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twenty don'ts
Seriously,
Just Don't.
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donts
'
These are 20 "Don'ts" to help edify your
skin care routine and maximize your skin's
health and glow.
Scrubs
Scrubs are too abrasive to the face, scratching at the skin, and
causing friction that leads to inflammation. If acne bumps are
present, the rough granules can tear open the skin, spreading
bacteria. In deeper skin tones, inflammation directly leads
to hyperpigmentation. Safer methods of exfoliation include
chemical exfoliants, fruit enzymes, and professional treatments
like dermaplaning, and chemical peels.
Cetaphil .
Dermatologists tend to recommend this cleanser
because it is a “nothing cleanser”: designed to
literally do nothing to the skin, as to not interfere
with a Rx. It has 7 ingredients that have zero benefit
the skin, like Sodium Laureth Sulfate, a drying,
outdated foaming agent.
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Just like any “soap” African Black Soap is very alkaline.
When it interacts with the skin’s natural acid mantle, it
can disturb the moisture barrier severely, and even burn
the skin. While some formulas have been found safe,
the homemade aspect of African Black soap makes
formulas unpredictable.
Black Soap
No coconut oil. No lemon juice. No baking
soda. No sugar or salt scrubs. Manuka honey is
one of the few safe kitchen products safe for the
face. Tumeric and yogurt or milk are popular,
however there are few, if any conclusive studies
on their effectiveness
Dangerous DIYs
(watch this!)
Absorbing all the oils from the skin may sound
like a good thing, but in actuality, this leads to
increased oiliness in the long term. Not only do
mattifying products absorb sebum, they absorb
water, as well, creating a never ending cycle of
dehydration and excess oil production.
Mattifying Products
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Facial brushes are overly abrasive, and

Facial
can easily aggravate the skin into a case
of contact dermatitis. The bristles can
become breeding grounds for bacteria
if not diligently cleaned after every use.
The constant rubbing from facial brushes
Brushes
induce a hypersensitivity to more effective
active ingredients. Silicone brushes are
much safer, but still not necessary.

Too Many
There are so many fun

Sleeping in
and innovative products

Actives
in skincare... they just don’t

Make-Up
need to be all on your face
at one time.

Sleeptime is the most important time for

the skin. Makeup impedes the process
of nutrients getting to the skin, leading
to premature aging. All makeup left
on for long enough will clog pores. The
skin may become dehydrated causing
future inflammation. Plus, you can’t
apply skincare when your foundation is
covering the face.
Pregnant cow hormones
bully & confuse human
body hormones. Oiliness

Excess
increases with dairy, as

Over Exfoliating
does inflammation. Nature’s

While it is important to remove
dead skin cells from the surface,
sometimes, we do too much. Always
gradually introduce exfoliants and
retinol into your skincare routine. Give
your skin at least 3 days off per week
Dairy
purpose for cow’s milk
was to grow baby cows
into half ton animals, so it’s
no wonder dairy causes
overproduction. The sugar (watch this!)
in dairy damages collagen
and other connective tissue.
When you see a pimple living rent free
in on your face, popping it can be
extremely tempting. But don’t. Popping
pimples can lead to more inflammation,

Picking
from any exfoliating actives. Signs of which means more hyperpigmentation.
over-exfoliation? And overall tight There is also a higher risk of textural
feeling, shininess, fine lines in the skin damage when a pimple is popped
manually. Pus, sebum, and bacteria can
when relaxed, and/or persistent tiny
exist deeper in the pore that it appears.
bumps and general inflammation When not professionally extracted, this
all over the skin. can cause a breakout to reoccur in the
(watch this!) same area.
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DIY
Professional
Treatments
The needles on dermarollers sold to
the public are too short to induce
a healing response from the skin.
Instead, these rollers can cause more
inflammation, and travel bacteria,
or worse, a virus, all around the face.
19
Some things are better left to the
professionals, like microdermabrasion, The ingredients that makes peel off masks
pore suction, microneedling and stick to your skin are essentially craft
chemical peels. The risk is severe scarring, glue, full of irritants & drying alcohols.
In the peel-off process, vellus hairs are
Peel - Off
bacterial infections, & dermatitis. At home
“dermaplaning“ is safe, however much ripped out & broken, creating irritation,
Masks
less effective than a spa treatment, and dermatitis(rash), & prolonging redness.
The active ingredients claimed on the
most similar to simply shaving the face,
label are rendered useless, because a
since hair is removed, but dead skin is left
formula designed to adhere to the skin
behind.
can’t support it.
Whether distilled in alcohol or not, witch hazel
Witch
contains tannins, that strip the skin of natural oils.
When used regularly, this can put the skin in a
Hazel
state of dehydration. Witch hazel can be used as
a final cleansing step to insure makeup is properly
removed. Otherwise, replace witch hazel with a
hydrating toner for a more vibrant glow.
When stress is high, the body produces more
of a hormone called cortisol. Inflammation
thrives with elevated levels of cortisol. Stress
Stress
management may mean different things to
everyone: exercise, spa days, sleeping in,
Dermarollers
turning your phone off and hiding out in a
bookstore for the day -- whatever you choose
to do, know that its very important for the skin,
and overall health, to manage stress.
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Touch
Dropper Tips
Every time a dropper touches
the face and goes back into
the bottle, bacteria & moisture
is transferred that reduce the

Nai Roberts-Smith, LE
product’s effectiveness and
cleanliness. Hover the dropper
above the skin without touching,
or squeeze into hands first.
Have realistic expectations of

Fooled By
what healthy human skin looks
like. Human skin has pores. We

FaceTune have freckles. We have moles.

We have smile lines. We have
naturally darker areas of the
face. Please don’t compare your
skin to the fake perfect people
on Instagram.

Too Hot
Hot water can quickly leech vital
moisture and oils from the skin,
leading to dryness. Hot water can also
worsen inflammation in individuals
with moderate acne. Pores do not
open or close, so there is no reason
to use extreme temperatures when
cleansing the face or body. Lukewarm
water is ideal.

If your skin LOVES a product, that

Don’t fix it
if it’s not
isn’t LABeautyologist approved, http://labeautyologist.com/
that’s okay. Don’t feel pressure
For more skincare tips and education,
broken
to have the perfect skincare
routine. Skincare is supposed follow Nai on Instagram and Twitter and
to be fun! subscribe to The Golden Rx on Youtube.