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Contents
WELCOME ................................................................................................................................................................ 5
INSTRUCTIONS........................................................................................................................................................ 6
FACIAL COURSE OUTLINE ...................................................................................................................................... 7
HISTORY .................................................................................................................................................................. 8
ANATOMY ............................................................................................................................................................. 10
THE SKIN THE BODY'S LARGEST ORGAN AND ITS COMPOSITION .......................................................................................10
ANTIOXIDANTS AND FREE RADICALS............................................................................................................................................13
FITZPATRICK SCALE ............................................................................................................................................. 16
SKIN CONDITIONS AND SKIN TYPES ................................................................................................................... 18
ACNE AND SKIN BREAKOUTS ...........................................................................................................................................................18
CAUSES OF ACNE INCLUDE:..............................................................................................................................................................18
SKIN PIGMENTATION DISORDERS...................................................................................................................................................19
FINE LINES AND WRINKLES ...............................................................................................................................................................19
SKIN TYPES ............................................................................................................................................................ 21
OILY SKIN TYPES ...................................................................................................................................................................................21
NORMAL SKIN TYPES...........................................................................................................................................................................21
COMBINATION SKIN TYPES ...............................................................................................................................................................22
DRY SKIN TYPES ....................................................................................................................................................................................22
SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES .........................................................................................................................................................................22
PRODUCTS AND INGREDIENTS ........................................................................................................................... 23
CLEANSERS .............................................................................................................................................................................................23
TONERS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................24
EXFOLIANTS ...........................................................................................................................................................................................24
MASKS ......................................................................................................................................................................................................25
INGREDIENTS ........................................................................................................................................................ 28
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS ....................................................................................................................................................................29
BETA HYDROXY ACIDS .......................................................................................................................................................................30
ENZYMES .................................................................................................................................................................................................30
RETINOIDS...............................................................................................................................................................................................31
PEPTIDES .................................................................................................................................................................................................31
MATRIXYL 3000 .....................................................................................................................................................................................31

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SYN-TACKS..............................................................................................................................................................................................31
ARGIRELINE (PRONOUNCED AT-JU-LEAN) ...................................................................................................................................31
RIGIN .........................................................................................................................................................................................................32
SHIELD BACT PEPTIDE.........................................................................................................................................................................32
COPPER PEPTIDES ................................................................................................................................................................................32
HYALURONIC ACID ..............................................................................................................................................................................32
CERASOME OXYGEN ...........................................................................................................................................................................32
VITAMIN K ...............................................................................................................................................................................................33
METABIOTICS RESVERATROL ............................................................................................................................................................33
CREATINE ................................................................................................................................................................................................33
COLLAGENEER .......................................................................................................................................................................................33
CHONDRICARE ......................................................................................................................................................................................33
MARINE COLLAGEN .............................................................................................................................................................................34
PHYTOGEN..............................................................................................................................................................................................34
E-MORTAL ...............................................................................................................................................................................................34
KOJIC ACID .............................................................................................................................................................................................34
24K GOLD ................................................................................................................................................................................................34
DIAMOND POWDER ............................................................................................................................................................................35
CAVIAR .....................................................................................................................................................................................................35
STEM CELLS ............................................................................................................................................................................................35
ANTIOXIDANTS .....................................................................................................................................................................................35
SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE OR (SOD)...............................................................................................................................................36
VITAMIN E ...............................................................................................................................................................................................36
VITAMIN C (L-ASCORBIC ACID) ........................................................................................................................................................36
ALPHA LIPOIC ACID ALSO KNOWN AS DHLA .............................................................................................................................36
COENZYME Q10 ....................................................................................................................................................................................37
IDEBENONE.............................................................................................................................................................................................37
GREEN TEA ..............................................................................................................................................................................................37
CAROTENES ............................................................................................................................................................................................37
POLYPHENOLS ......................................................................................................................................................................................38
POMEGRANATE EXTRACT..................................................................................................................................................................38
COFFEE CHERRY OR COFFEEBERRY ................................................................................................................................................38
GOJI BERRY EXTRACTS ........................................................................................................................................................................38
HONEY......................................................................................................................................................................................................38

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BETAINE ...................................................................................................................................................................................................39
MARINE ALGAE EXTRACTS ................................................................................................................................................................39
UTENSILS NEEDED ................................................................................................................................................ 40
SINGLE-USE MATERIALS .....................................................................................................................................................................41
SIGNATURE FACIAL & PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS ................................................................................... 42
VITAMIN C FACIAL ................................................................................................................................................ 44
MEN’S FACIAL ....................................................................................................................................................... 45
PUMPKIN ENZYME FACIAL .................................................................................................................................. 46
GREEN TEA FACIAL ............................................................................................................................................... 47
CAVIAR FACIAL ..................................................................................................................................................... 48
24 K GOLD FACIAL ................................................................................................................................................ 49
ACNE AND PROBLEM PRONE SKIN FACIAL ........................................................................................................ 50
MICRODERMABRASION FACIAL .......................................................................................................................... 52
MARKETING .......................................................................................................................................................... 53
WORD OF MOUTH AND REFERRALS ..............................................................................................................................................53
SOCIAL MEDIA SITES ...........................................................................................................................................................................53
GOOGLE AND BING..............................................................................................................................................................................54
WEBSITE ...................................................................................................................................................................................................54
ADVERTISING .........................................................................................................................................................................................55
SERVICE EXCHANGES ..........................................................................................................................................................................55
RESEARCH ...............................................................................................................................................................................................55
STUDY ......................................................................................................................................................................................................55
TAKE CONTINUING COURSES ...........................................................................................................................................................56
RESEARCH ...............................................................................................................................................................................................56
TRADE SHOWS.......................................................................................................................................................................................56
CONSENT FORM .................................................................................................................................................... 57
THE CLIENT CONSULTATION ............................................................................................................................... 60
THE 10-STEP CONSULTATION METHOD MUST KNOW ............................................................................................................60
CONCLUDING THE SERVICE ..............................................................................................................................................................63

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Welcome
Welcome to the state of the art online facial training with Multi-Media Presentation
Lesson/Module with Streaming Video with HD Learn Technology. Your journey has
just begun into the elite facialist world. ASFA has put together our 15 years of skin
professional secrets and experiences at your fingertips. Conveniently the facial
platform has been designed to give a virtual education. We have the most
advanced online education bringing interactive demonstrations. Including high
definition videos hd learn technology, tests, assignments and downloadable files.

Join us into the wave of the future in virtual education!

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Instructions
You must complete each element in order to advance to the next one. Once you
have completed all the elements in the course you will graduate with a printed
certificate of completion with your name on it.
PDF: A file that you must download.
ASSIGNMENT: A task assigned to be completed & graded. Written Essay, Task or
Student Interaction
TEST: Build auto grading tests with True/False, multi-choice questions,
randomization, question pooling, timed delivery and feedback features.
CHALKBOARD: Multi-Media Presentation Lesson/Module including Streaming
Video with hdlearn Technology.

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Facial Course Outline


◉ History

◉ Anatomy of the skin

◉ Fitzpatrick Scale

◉ Skin conditions/skin types

◉ Products

◉ Ingredients

◉ Sanitation Guidelines

◉ Utensils

◉ Signature Facial

◉ Vitamin C Facial

◉ Men’s Facial

◉ Pumpkin Enzyme Facial

◉ Green Tea Facial

◉ Caviar Facial

◉ 24K Gold Facial

◉ Acne and Problem Prone Skin

◉ Microdermabrasion

◉ Marketing

◉ Forms

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History
The history of the facial goes back thousands of years, Cleopatra, The Beauty
Queen of Egypt, and Queen Balqis of Yeman. Some clues reveal Cleopatra used
the first procedures to soften and improve the appearance of her skin. Little did
she and others know they were actually benefiting from the skin rejuvenation
effects of hydroxy acids, The active ingredients responsible for skin exfoliation.
The original chemical exfoliant lactic acid was found in the milk they bathed in and
tartaric acid in the grape skins they rubbed on their skin. Other uses were found in
poultices of minerals and plants, alabaster, oils and salt.
Historians say Cleopatra maintained her youth and beauty by wearing a mask of
pure gold to bed every night. Also, different cultures believed that something so
rare and beautiful must possess healing properties, which is why gold was taken
internally and used externally on the skin. Today, skin treatments involving gold
are said to accelerate the regeneration of new cells, remove wrinkles and
blemishes, as well as lift and firm the skin, brightening the overall complexion! Gold
is also anti-inflammatory and great for calming sensitive skin, redness, and acne.
Throughout history, women discovered other anti-aging remedies such as
applying vitamin C on their skin. In Tibet during the Tang Dynasty, women who
wanted to fight the outward signs of premature aging would apply sea buckthorn
on their face and hands. The berries of the sea buckthorn plant yield deep-colored
oil that is a major source of vitamin C. Also, Rose hips, the berry-like fruits that are
left behind after a rose dies, contain more vitamin C than an orange. In fact, it is
precisely this high level of vitamin C that gives rose hips, sea buckthorn, and other
fruits their potent skin-rejuvenating powers. It is not surprising centuries ago, Native
Americans made a vitamin C-rich paste out of rose petals to moisten and heal their
skin. Modern skin remedies include Vitamin C as a major ingredient in anti-aging
and rejuvenating products. When topically applied, vitamin C provides a skin-
rejuvenating effect by improving collagen synthesis in the skin that slows down
with aging, as well as limiting skin damage from free radicals.
During this time it was also said facial masks originated. Cleopatra often applied
egg white onto her face which caused a film to be formed on her face when the
egg white dried. By cleansing with clean water in the morning, it made her skin
smooth and soft and younger looking. Yang Gui Fei, the royal in Tang dynasty,
was also famous for her beauty.

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Besides the priority of daily life and accommodation, her beauty has also been
linked directly to facial masks that were specially made for her. Her facial masks
included many ingredients such as pearl, white jade and ginseng. They were
grounded into a fine powder and mixed with lotus root starch. After mixing the
contents she applied it to her face routinely. It was said that the mask helped to
whiten the skin and to remove spots and wrinkles.
Vitamin A was also discovered long ago, in 1913 to be precise. It is widely used
today and considered one of the most beneficial ingredients in anti-aging products
and treatments. Elmer mccollum at the University of Wisconsin-Madison and
Lafayette Mendell and Thomas Burr Osborne of Yale University discovered this
potent vitamin. Mccollum extracted a factor from butter that he called "fat-soluble
A", and it was first synthesized in 1947. There are two forms of vitamin A: retinol,
the fully preformed vitamin A; and carotenoids, which are pigments found in plants
that your body converts to vitamin A. Today, both forms are used in facials and a
vast array of products. They are extremely sought after around the world for skin
care treatments, especially for their anti-aging benefits.
Many of today's most advanced and effective facial treatments were used and
discovered long ago. Nowadays, celebrities such as Madonna, who is hooked on
products containing vitamins A, C and E; and Nicole Kidman, like Cleopatra,
preserves her beauty with 24 K gold treatments. Also, Megan Fox keeps her skin
radiant with lactic acid, just as affluent women did by using milk on their skin. Even
Drew Barrymore indulges in fruit enzymes, which were used regularly by women
in ancient times to achieve glowing flawless skin, and that is just to name a few.
Not only are celebrities indulging, but so are fashionistas and clients who are
requesting these facials regularly around the globe.

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Anatomy
The skin the body's largest organ and its composition
The Integumentary System is comprised of the epidermis and the dermis skin
layers. This system is part of the largest organ of the body - the skin. It is hard to
imagine the skin has an organ, but there are so many elements of the skin that
make our bodies function on a daily basis. From a more in depth perspective,
below is a description of the epidermis and the layers that it is comprised of. Also,
you will learn about antioxidants and free radicals, UV exposure, vitamins, extracts
and acids. This will be the most beneficial area of study for this course.
The skin is comprised of two layers: The epidermis and the dermis. These two
layers help to protect the body from germs, toxic elements, and these layers help
the body to function. Connected together, these two skin layers adjoin and connect
capillaries and ducts, which produce feelings and sensation through our skin.
Therefore, the dermis and epidermis are vital parts of our body.
The Epidermis is very important to an esthetician/student. An esthetician is only
licensed to treat the five most outer layers of the skin, which make up the
epidermis. An esthetician's skin treatments stop where the blood starts to flow
within the skin. Anything beyond the epidermis starting with the dermis layer, onto
the subcutaneous layer of skin and beyond legally must be treated by a medical
professional.
The epidermis is the protective layer that covers the entire body. The epidermis
helps to protect the body from toxins, bacteria and loss of fluids. The epidermis is
thinner than a tissue and it thickens whenever the skin is hydrated.
Have you ever wondered what the five layers of the epidermis where? The easiest
way to visualize the outermost, top five layers of the skin is to imagine that the cell
is going on a journey. The journey the cell is going on is called cell turnover. The
journey takes the cell an average of 28 days to make it through the five layers of
the epidermis. Starting at the bottom of the epidermis, the cell's journey begins in
the stratum germinitivum with the birth of the cell. This layer of the skin is closest
to the dermis. This is where parent cells live. Parent cells make an exact replica of
themselves called daughter cells.

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Melanocytes also live in the Stratum Germinitivum. Melanocytes are specialized


cells that give your skin pigment and color, otherwise known as melanin. Melanin
protects the parent cells from damage. For every one melanocyte, there are 37
parent cells that it has to protect. UV exposure triggers melanocytes to produce
more melanin. An overproduction of melanin is what leads to hyper-pigmentation
on the skin.
On the second leg of the cell's journey, the daughter cells then travel up to the
stratum spinosium. In this layer of the skin, the daughter cells grow hair on the
outside called desmosomes. The daughter cells also get fattened up with keratin
and start losing a little moisture, showing the first signs of dehydration.
Langerhan cells also live in the stratum spinosium. These specialized cells are part
of the immune system and act a line of defense. Think of langerhan cells as "Louie"
the bouncer. Louie roams around the stratum stratum spinosium looking for
anything trying to get through that shouldn't be there, such as bacteria and
disease. If Louie finds any of these invaders, he eats them up.
The next stop on the cell's journey is the stratum granulosum. In this layer of the
skin, the cell's nucleus starts to break down. This is the part of the journey when
the cell realizes that death is just ahead. The cell continues to get even fatter as it
is filled with Keratin.
Within the cell, the buildup of moisture, oil and minerals encapsulate and form
lamellar bodies. The lamellar bodies are then pushed towards the cell's
membrane, along the edge of the inside of the cell. The cell eventually excretes
the lamellar bodies through it's membrane. Once the lamellar bodies are released
from the cells, they burst. The contents of the lamellar bodies are then pushed up
through the stratum lucidum and right towards the stratum corneum.
The next layer of skin, the stratum lucidum is an optional stop for the cell on its
journey. This transparent layer is packed tight with very dense cells. The reason
why this stop is optional for the cell is because this layer of skin only exists if there
are areas of trauma or friction on the skin. Area of trauma or friction on the skin
usually results in the form of a blister on a heel, blister on a hand, corn, callus acne
or milia.

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The final stop on the cell's journey is in the stratum corneum. This is the layer of
the epidermis where cells come to die. The stratum corneum is made up of dead
skin cells. It’s about fourteen layers thick of proteins and keratin. As these dead
skin cells are sloughed off with regular physical and chemical exfoliation, they are
continuously replaced with dead skin cells that have migrated their way to the top
from the stratum germinitvum.
On the top of the stratum corneum is the acid mantle. The acid mantle is a chemical
protective barrier that sits on top of the outermost layer of the epidermis and acts
as a second line of defense against bacteria and disease. It is made up of oil and
sweat from the dermis. The acid mantle is at its strongest when its ph is between
4.5 and 6.5. When the acid mantle is acidic, it can chemically fight off bacteria and
foreign invaders successfully.
It's important to know the five layers of the epidermis. A basic understanding of the
skin will help you make more educated choices in the products you use on the
skin, and for the specific conditions you want to treat.
Below the epidermis lies the dermis, or true skin, which consists of fibrous and other
tissues well supplied with blood vessels. Most skin care products operate at this
level because very few ingredients penetrate deeper than the epidermis.
Moisturizers’, for example, are designed to replenish and protect the lipids at the
center of the epidermis.
In the dermis, things really get interesting. This lower layer of your skin, although
harder to target than the epidermis, is where wrinkle-causing changes take place.
And when it comes to wrinkle-prevention, a little knowledge can go a very long
way!
Fibroblasts, the primary cell type of the dermis, generate three main structural
components: collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid - remember those three,
because keeping (and replacing) them is the goal of almost every anti-aging
product and treatment. The dermis is also full of nerves, blood vessels, sweat
glands, and immune cells. Just below it lies a layer of fat, which also tends to shift
and diminish with age.
"Thin skin" Is not just an expression!

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The thickness of the dermis, in fact, has a very real and changeable impact on the
skin's appearance. Skin thickness varies over different parts of the body, and
throughout a person's lifetime. Generally, it doubles between the ages of three
and seven, and again at puberty; from there on out it decreases. What we may
simply describe as skin "aging" is more specifically this gradual process of thinning
as the dermis loses collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

Antioxidants and Free Radicals


Antioxidants are involved in the prevention of cellular damage- the common
pathway for cancer, aging, and a variety of diseases. It is important to know what
free radicals are and how they react in the body and in the skin. All of our cells
produce free radicals. A free radical is any atom or molecule that is missing an
electron from its outer shell. This free radical will attack and destroy other
necessarily healthy atoms to get that electron it is missing. These free radicals can
accumulate and cause oxidative damage. This oxidative damage causes
biological organisms to age. In other words, free radicals turn the oils of our skin
rancid which ultimately damages the collagen in the skin. Collagen is the protein
in fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Free radicals have also been
associated with skin cancer and premature skin-aging due to sun exposure (which
speeds up free radical damage).
Now that we have learned what free radicals are, let's learn what antioxidants are
and how they can help. Antioxidants are a group of beneficial nutrients which
consist of vitamins, minerals and enzymes. An antioxidant is a molecule capable
of slowing or preventing the oxidation of other molecules. They help to remove the
free radicals and their damage from these cells. They slow down and can even
stop the oxidative damage that causes the skin to age. Antioxidants are reducing
agents meaning that they reduce the damaging oxidative process in cells.
There are two ways antioxidants are classified to work at defusing free radicals:
The first way is known as "chain breaking". When a free radical releases or steals
and electron, a second radical is then formed. This molecule then turns around
and does the same exact thing to a third molecule, continuing to generate more
instability. This process continues until an ending occurs. Either a free radical is
stabilized by a chain-breaking antioxidant.

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Amongst the best antioxidants are compounds such as vitamin C and E, coenzyme
Q10, idebenone, zinc, copper, and beta carotene. Beauty companies are
harnessing these, as well as the antioxidants from an increasing range of
botanicals such as green tea, pomegranates, coffee berries, grape seeds, olives,
mushrooms and more. More and more scientific studies are proving their
effectiveness, not only in helping to reduce wrinkles and aging but also reducing
inflammation, such as in rosacea, or even helping prevent skin cancer. We will get
more in depth with products and ingredients in the chapters to come.
The second way antioxidants work is by prevention. Antioxidant enzymes prevent
oxidation by reducing the rate of the chain initiation. That is, by neutralizing the
initiating radicals, such antioxidants can prevent this chain from ever setting in
motion.
Effects of the sun on the skin and the changes caused by UV Radiation.
UV exposure causes thickening and thinning of the skin. Thick skin is found in
course wrinkles especially on the back of the neck that do not disappear when the
skin is stretched. A condition called solar elastosis is seen as thickened, coarse
wrinkling and yellow discoloration of the skin. A common effect of UV exposure is
thinning of the skin causing fine wrinkles, easy bruising, and skin tearing.
UV rays also cause the walls of blood vessels to become thinner leading to
bruising with only minor trauma in sun-exposed areas. For example, most of the
bruising that occurs on the backs of the hands and forearms not on the inside of
the upper arm or the inside of the forearm. The sun causes the appearance of tiny
blood vessels, in the skin especially the face.
The most noticeable sun-induced pigment change is a freckle or solar lentigo.
Light-skinned people tend to freckle more noticeably. A freckle is caused when the
melanin-producing cell, or melanocyte, is damaged causing it to get bigger. Large
freckles, also known as age spots or liver spots, can be seen on the skin. These
are not age related but sun damage related. UV exposure can also cause white
spots and this is a result of melanocytes being destroyed.
UV radiation causes an increased number of moles in sun-exposed areas. Sun
exposure also causes precancerous lesions called actinic keratoses that develop
especially on the face. They are small crusty bumps that can often be felt better
then they can be seen. 1 in 100 cases per year will develop into squamous cell
carcinoma.

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The ability of the sun to cause skin cancer is a well-known fact. The 3 main skin
cancers are melanoma, basil cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma.
Melanoma is the most deadly skin cancer because it metastasizes more readily
than the other skin cancers. It is believed that the amount of exposure of the skin
to the sun before the age of 20 is actually the determining risk factor for melanoma.
Basal cell carcinoma is the most common skin cancer and tends to spread locally,
not metastasize. Squamous cell carcinoma is the second most common skin
cancer, and it can metastasize although not as commonly as melanoma. The risk
of getting basal cell carcinoma or squamous cell carcinoma is determined by a
person's lifetime exposure to UV radiation and the person's pigment protection.

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Fitzpatrick Scale
The Fitzpatrick Classification Scale was developed in 1975 by Harvard Medical
School dermatologist, Thomas Fitzpatrick, MD, phd. This scale is used in the
beauty world by professionals to determine how someone will react to skin
treatments. The scale is a numerical classification schema for skin typing. The
scale classifies a person's complexion and their tolerance to sunlight and UV
radiation. The Fitzpatrick skin type does not change, it is something people are
born with and will die with. The only variable that changes is the degree of tan on
a person's skin. It remains a recognized tool for dermatologic research into the
color of skin. We use this scale to ensure that treatments do not burn a persons'
skin or leave hyper-pigmentation marks. So you can see how important it is.
There are six varieties of Fitzpatrick Skin Types, ranging from extremely pale
skinned people who are highly subjective to burns, to extremely dark skinned
people who may suffer serious discoloration from laser or light treatment, or other
pigment altering therapies, conditions and products. To determine a person's
Fitzpatrick Skin Type, a variety of questions are asked about genetic history,
physical attributes such as eye color, hair color, and freckling, and personal
observations of the skins reaction to sunlight.
Depending, on the results of the answers to the determination questions, most
people fit into one of the six skin categories, they are labeled with roman numerals
I-VI. The Fitzpatrick Skin Type system should be used as a guideline rather than a
definite analysis. When choosing the correct treatment for your client you should
pay close attention to the ph level of the products being used. Knowing your clients
skin type is extremely important to ensure they will not burn or have a negative
reaction to the products and treatments.
Type I (scores 0-7) Light, pale white. Always burns, never tans
Type II (scores 8-16) White; fair. Usually burns, tans with difficulty
Type III (scores 17-24) Medium, white to light brown. Sometimes mild burn,
gradually tans to a light brown
Type IV (scores 25-30) Olive, moderate brown. Rarely burns, tans with ease to a
moderate brown.

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Type V (scores over 30) Brown, dark brown. Very rarely burns, tans very easily
Type VI Black, very dark brown to black.
Never burns, tans very easily, deeply pigmented

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Skin Conditions and Skin Types


Acne and Skin Breakouts
Approximately 80% of teenagers, 54% of adult females, and 40% of adult males
have acne-related skin problems, making a problem skin a primary concern of
many clients. In fact, it is one of the biggest reasons clients first visit a spa for skin
care treatments. What is acne and how can it be treated? This Severe skin problem
can deeply affect a person's self esteem. Acne is a skin disorder of the sebaceous
glands, it is characterized by comedones and blemishes, and it is mostly
hereditary. It is usually triggered by hormonal changes. It begins to flare up usually
when a person reaches puberty, but it is also prevalent in adults.
Acne ranges from mild breakouts to cysts and scarring. Acne can be controlled
with proper medications and treatments. Estheticians and other skin care
specialists have a great opportunity to help people who suffer from acne and make
a difference in their lives. Acne can be a challenge to work with, but seeing visible
improvement in the client's skin is very rewarding.

Causes of acne include:


Genetics/Heredity
Clogged follicles
Bacteria
Triggers also include hormones, stress, cosmetics, skin care products and foods.
Several products and facials can help problem skin including salicylic acid which
we will cover in the ingredients chapter.
Also be aware many products and cosmetics can also aggravate the skin and
cause acne. Mainly fatty ingredients such as waxes and some oils can clog and
irritate follicles. These comedogenic ingredients can block follicles, which cause
cell buildup, resulting in comedones. These products also cause acne
inflammation. Products rich in emollients and occlusive products are too heavy for
problem skin types.

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Therefore, moisturizers and sunscreens should be lighter formulas such as oil-in-


water emulsions, NOT water-in-oil emulsions. Many makeup products are
comedogenic, especially foundations and powders that are made with solids and
fatty ingredients.

Skin pigmentation disorders


Skin pigmentation disorders are very common. They are disorders of the skin that
cause the skin to appear lighter or darker than normal, or even blotchy or
discolored. Skin pigmentation disorders occur because the body either produces
too much or too little melanin, the pigment that creates hair, skin, and eye color.
Melanin protects the body by absorbing ultra violet light. Our main focus will be
on hyper-pigmentation.
In hyper pigmentation, the body produces too much melanin, causing skin to
become darker than usual.
Hyper pigmentation also occurs in melasma, a dark mask-like discoloration that
covers the cheeks and bridge of the nose. Melasma can occur during the end of
pregnancy. In addition, many people have moles, freckles, age spots, and
birthmarks on their skin.
Hyper-pigmentation can be caused by many factors, from sunbathing to drug
reactions or even poor nutrition. Wounds and scars can develop darker patches of
skin as well. There are many skin care treatments, products and ingredients that
can be very beneficial for hyper pigmentation. We will cover these in the next
chapter.

Fine lines and Wrinkles


Fine lines and wrinkles have become more and more a real concern that most
people have and the anti-aging market has become saturated with several
treatments and products.
Mainly signs of aging appear on parts of the body where sun exposure is greatest.
Wrinkles come in two categories: fine surface lines and deep furrows. The main
factors that promote wrinkles are smoking, degree of skin pigmentation (more is
better), sun exposure, lack of sleep and heredity.

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There are two basic approaches when dealing with these signs of aging:
prevention and removal. As a person ages so does the skin's appearance, it
changes and so does the regenerative properties. The dermal layer thins, less
collagen is produced, and the elastin fibers that provide elasticity wear out. These
changes in the scaffolding of the skin cause it to wrinkle and sag, and inevitable
occurrence unless you never laugh, smile or frown ever again! Wrinkles are also a
symptom of dehydration. Regular exfoliation can assist the skin with cell turnover
and increase the production of collagen. In addition to exfoliation, there are
several other products and ingredients to use for the reduction of wrinkles. A
regular monthly facial helps boost the effects of the products and encourages
proper re-hydration of the skin. Studies now show that many ingredients found in
skin-care treatments significantly reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

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Skin Types
Knowing a person's skin type is absolutely necessary in order to make the right
decisions about proper treatments and products that are suitable for particular skin
needs. The initial quality, or type, of a person's skin is genetically determined
which means one is born with it.
There are five basic skin types which are Oily, Normal, Combination, dry and
sensitive, with each having particular characteristics and requiring specific care
and treatments. A person's skin type is determined by how much or how little oil
your skin produces. Genes, diet, stress level, hormonal fluctuations, medication
and the skin care regimen being used, are all factors in determining how much oil
one's skin produces. This information will give you an idea of where one's skin fits
and how to care for it and or offer the best treatments and products.

Oily Skin Types


Oily skin results in skin that has a greasy slippery texture, appears shiny and
frequently has large, clogged pores. Oily skin types are prone to develop acne
and breakouts. Despite these drawbacks, oily skin generally
Remains younger looking and more supple over time than other skin types. Oily
skin benefits from clay masks and other treatments we will learn about in the next
chapter.

Normal Skin Types


In normal skin, oil is produced in the skin at a moderate rate, resulting in a balanced
state, not too oily and not too dry. Normal skin looks consistently plump, moist,
and vibrant. What a great blessing but it still requires no less attention that other
skin types. It benefits from regular cleansing, toning and moisturizing.

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Combination Skin Types


Most people have at least two different types of facial skin at any given time. The
combination of skin is frequently characterized by an oily "T-zone" area, which
covers the forehead, nose and chin. While the skin around the cheeks, eyes and
mouth is normal or dry. It is important that people with combination skin assess
their skin regularly and use different products on different areas of the face.

Dry Skin Types


Dry skin can easily develop a sallow tone, wrinkles, fine pores, and it is very prone
to aging and irritating. It might still look great on a younger person, but to keep it
healthy, you should apply thorough care and use regular skin care products and
treatments with natural masks and moisturizers.

Sensitive Skin Types


Sensitive skin can be dry, normal, or oily and characterized by delicacy. It
frequently reacts adversely to environmental conditions and often requires special
treatment in order to remain in good condition. This skin type is prone to react
adversely to cosmetics containing alcohol, synthetically manufactured oil type
ingredients, fragrance oils, and artificial colors. Sensitive skin benefits greatly from
natural, gentle, skin care treatments and products, including light steaming.

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Products and Ingredients


Cleansers
SYNDETS
Syndets, more commonly known as synthetic detergents or soap-free cleansers,
are best for people with sensitive skin. They have a low ph level, which makes
them less likely to cause irritation. Syndets are often labeled as fragrance free,
mild and non-irritating. If you or your client has acne as well as sensitive skin, look
for products labeled oil free and non-comedogenic.

CREAM CLEANSERS
Cream cleansers, including milks, mousses and balms, help moisturize skin as they
clean. This makes these rich, hydrating products a wonderful choice for people
with dry skin. Cleansers that contain Aloe Vera and chamomile are another perfect
option to furnish our skin with necessary nutrients. Furthermore, Cleansers with
ingredients such as vitamins A, C and E will further enhance skin conditioning.

GEL CLEANSERS
People with oily skin often find that gel cleansers are the best choice. These
cleansers have a light lather that helps to absorb excess oils on the skin. Oil-free
and water-based cleansers are a smart pick, especially if you or your client also
struggle with acne.

CLEANSING CLOTHS
Facial cleaning cloths are soft, disposable cloths that already contain a cleanser
in them. They are the ideal choice for removing makeup and keeping skin clean
while on the go, since you can simply toss them into a gym bag or purse. Most
facial cleansing cloths are labeled as being for a specific skin type, although one
good rule to keep in mind is that open-weave cloths are better for dry or sensitive
skin while closed-weave cloths offer more exfoliation and are thus a better choice
for people with oily skin.

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Toners
Toners are also beneficial for :
Better makeup application: Because facial toners remove excess oil and other
impurities, make-up adheres better and can last longer.
Minimized pores: Facial toners help tighten large pores due to their astringent
components, moisturizing and refreshing the face at the same time.
Better acne control: The active ingredients contained in facial toners remove
impurities and due to the fact that they contain alcohol they are also able to kill
bacteria responsible for acne breakouts
Also for sensitive skin it's best to avoid artificial fragrances as much as possible.

Exfoliants
Mechanical Exfoliation
Mechanical exfoliants, if abused, can be abrasive and eliminate far too much of
the corneum layer, making them irritating and drying. Mechanical exfoliation also
includes scrubs, microdermabrasion, exfoliating gloves, sponges, or brushes like
the clarisonic for example. The frequency of their use depends on the individuals
skin type and skin condition. Thick skin may benefit from weekly exfoliation. The
overall best advice regardless of skin type or condition is to exfoliate gently. This
type of exfoliation may not be advisable for inflamed acne or problem skin.

Chemical Exfoliation
Enzymatic exfoliants on the other hand are chemical exfoliants which are usually
based on botanicals and are milder than mechanical exfoliants. They are protein
specific and work by loosening the dead skin cells so that they can be rinsed away.
They are applied on clean skin and left to act for a few minutes before removal
with a disposable sponge or cotton pads.
Other chemical exfoliants are usually based on alpha or beta hydroxyl acids or
retinoids. In the case of alpha hydroxy acids, because they only exfoliate the
excess accumulation of corneocytes which form the protective outer layer of the
skin and afterward work to prevent their accumulation.

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Masks
Masks come in a variety of textures including creams, gels and clay. Some masks
are also made specifically for the eye and lip areas. Masks are formulated to
mainly treat skin problems and are left on the skin for only a limited amount of
time; they usually contain a large number of performance ingredients and often in
percentages higher than in creams or lotions. Their ingredients depend entirely on
the persons’ skin type or condition the mask is intending to address.

Oily and problem skin:


If a person has oily skin, masks should contain bentonite and kaolin. These are
clays that help absorb excess oil and dry the skin. For acne-prone skin, a mask
should contain sulfur, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide plus botanicals for
healing, soothing, and antiseptic action.

Dry skin:
For Dry skin masks should contain large amounts of emollients. These masks
contain a variety of plant extracts, conditioning agents, emollients, and
humectants.

Moisturizers
Moisturizers which are also known as hydrators they are an extremely important
product category because they provide a great deal of age prevention activity for
young and mature clients alike. When choosing moisturizers there are several
mechanisms of hydration and each one is asscoiated with specific ingredients. In
addition, moisturizers are ideal for incorporating a wide range of antioxidants as
well as other appropriate botanicals for numerous skin benefits. Antioxidants are
also being added into a wide range of moisturizing products and their
incorporation is valuable in age prevention.

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Serums
Serums contain concentrated ingredients often in liposomes or other advanced
delivery systems. They usually contain specialty ingredients which include
antioxidants, peptides, lipids and botanical extracts. Some serums are also made
specifically for the eye and lip areas they are applied under a cream or lotion.
Serums are available for a variety of skin types and conditions

Ampoules
Ampoules are generally glass vials of concentrated ingredients they are designed
to give us ulta intensive treatment, and they often contain larger amounts of
performance ingredients in a water base, although occasionally they are in an oil
base. Ampoules tend to be applied under a light cream or lotion. They are
available for a wide variety of skin types and conditions.

Lotions
Lotions targeted to oily and problem prone skin may come in the form of heavy
lotions, serums or gels. Regardless of its constancy, a lotion will have the same
product performance as a cream. The difference simply lies in the products texture.
Specialty Day and night creams usually contain correcting ingredients oriented to
a specific skin type and condition. They work extremely well for both prevention
and maintence for an overall better skin condition.

Traditional day and night creams


Traditional day creams as opposed to treatment or correcting creams tend to be
light and mostly moisturizing without high concentrations of correcting ingredients.
They are often easily absorbed and leave the skin ready for the application
makeup and or sunscreen.
Traditional night Creams which are also referred to as nourishing creams are
generally designed to hydrate and condition the skin at night when normal tissue
repair is taking place on the skin. Night creams are often heavier in consistency
than their daytime counterparts they normally contain more emollients than day
creams and are not made for use under makeup.

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Eye Creams
The skin in this area is usually drier, thinner and more sensitive than any other
parts on the face. Eye creams incorporate more emollients in order to help
supplement the lack of oil production in the eye area. Eye creams are also
becoming treatment serums they are designed to firm the eye area, reduce fine
lines and wrinkles or they deal with other specific issues such as puffiness,
because this area is very sensitive, eye creams are carefully designed not to
irritate.

Neck Creams
The neck and décolleté often show age more than the face this is because the
neck has thinner skin and dries and wrinkles more easily than the skin on the face.
In combination with the fact that the neck and décolleté are the most often areas
exposed to the sun.

Sunscreens
Traditional night creams which are also referred to as nourishing creams, are
generally designed to hydrate and condition the skin at night, when normal tissue
repair is taking place in the skin. Night creams are often heavier in consistency and
texture than their daytime counterparts. They normally contain more emollients
than day creams and are not made for use under makeup.
Understanding SPF Numbers is extremely important. When you choose your sun
block or sun screen it will contain an SPF number which will range from 2 to 60,
which 60 being the 'strongest' and offering the greatest protection.
Most sunscreens are not oily and have a color tint; they can be offered as a
combination of daily sun protection and makeup base.

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INGREDIENTS
In today’s world, it is very tempting to buy skin care products for their fancy
packaging, great advertisement, convincing sales rep or big celebrity
endorsement But, the key to picking out skin care products comes down to one
key factor: what’s INSIDE the bottle – the ingredients – because that’s what will
(or will not) produce results for the skin.
Know the best active ingredients It’s best to go in to buying a skin care product
knowing what active ingredients are proven to address your skin issues and then
look for products containing those ingredients.
Not only should your skin care products contain active ingredients that are proven
to be both safe and highly effective, but they should be in high enough
concentrations that the ingredient is actually effective (typically in the 5-15% range,
depending on the ingredient). One easy way to determine this is ensuring that the
active ingredient is near the top of the ingredient list. If it’s towards the end of the
list, then it’s only a minor component of the product, and likely not in a high enough
concentration to make any impact on your skin.
Know your oils. Most skin care treatments contain at least some oil, which serves
as an emulsifier, but while some oils are completely safe, others are extremely
pore clogging and can make your skin congested and break out. Here are the safe
oils that will not break your skin out:
Vegetable Oil
Safflower Oil
Jojoba Oil
Soybean Oil
Sunflower Seed Oil
Macadamia Nut Oil
Coconut Oil
Avocado Oil
Argon Oil

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Neem Oil
Natural Jeje
Organic Camellia Oil

Know what ingredients to avoid... These common skin care ingredients that are
either pore clogging, ineffective or flat out dangerous. Keep this list with you and
avoid skin care products that contain them.
Synthetic Fragrances’
PARABENS
UREAS
1,4-DIOXANE
PETROCHEMICALS such as Petrolatum, Mineral Oil and Paraffin MEA/DEA/TEA
SULFATES
CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS
Beware of too many ingredients. A big red flag is a product that contains too many
ingredients. Any more than 15 ingredients in a single product — especially with a
lot of those being long, unpronounceable words — is a strong indicator that the
product is packed with lots of fillers, synthetics and parabens and less of the active
ingredients that will actually provide results for your skin.
Now, that you know what to look for in products and what to avoid in them. Let’s
learn about some of the best active ingredients on the market.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids


Alpha Hydroxy Acids are ingredients that help improve the skin instead of
temporarily affecting the way it looks or feels. The most common known are
glycolic acid which is found in sugar cane, lactic acid (sour milk), citric acid (citrus
fruits), malic acid (apples), tartaric acid (grapes) and mandelic acid (almonds).

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The benefits of ahas when working with aging, sun-damaged skin is the AHA
dislodges skin buildup and returns the skins exfoliation process to the normal rate
associated with healthy skin. The benefits also extend to normalizing skin function,
hydration, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, problem-prone
skin, hyperpigmentation, roughness and dull skin.

Beta Hydroxy Acids


The most popular Beta hydroxy acid we will discuss is known as Salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is an effective exfoliant and works on individual cells. It is the most
effective acid for reducing blemishes, including open and closed comedones. In
addition to its exfoliating properties, salicylic acid has antimicrobial and anti-
inflammatory properties which make it the best ingredient for acne treatments.
Additional claimed benefits are reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,
as well as improving the skins overall texture, thickness, barrier function, and
collagen production.

Enzymes
While there are so many types of enzymes, they have two primary uses in skin
care for exfoliation and anti- inflammation. They work by breaking down keratin
protein that is in dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. They leave a result of
smoother skin. There are many enzymes to choose from a few great ones are fruit
enzymes such as pumpkin, papaya, pineapple, and blueberry or X-pressin which
is a stabilized enzyme from papaya.
Other enzymes and yes some are found naturally in our skin can function as a
scavenger of free radicals and protect skin against oxidative damage. In other
words enzymes can protect against damage from the sun, environmental
pollutants and even acne.

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Retinoids
The term retinoid refers to Vitamin A and its derivatives; it encompasses a series
of chemical ingredients we will be covering specifically retinol. Retinol performs
important functions to help maintain a healthy, more youthful looking skin.
Specifically retinol affects the main intercellular processes, including cell growth
and differentiation, and it helps to repair sun damage. Not only is retinol a great
tool for anti-aging, but it also helps improve hyper pigmentation and acne. This
ingredient is considered the most effective anti-aging ingredient because it
dramatically improves the signs of skin aging it also improves collagen and elastin.

Peptides
Peptides are cell messengers they send specific signals for specific anti-aging
functions. Peptides can increase collagen production, activate lash follicles and
weaken repetitive muscle contractions. While there are quite a few different
peptide complexes, let’s go over some of the most prominent ones.

Matrixyl 3000
This peptide works to mimic the appearance of broken down collagen, causing
your skin to naturally react by producing more collagen.

Syn-tacks
This dual peptide interacts with the most relevant proteins to dramatically increase
cellular communication while also stimulating the production of collagen. With this
action the skin will result in improvement of skin compactness, reduced wrinkles,
increased skin tone and increased skin firmness.

Argireline (pronounced at-ju-Lean)


This peptide reduces muscle contractions under the skin and gives an almost
Botox-like effect.

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Rigin
This peptide redefines the facial contour and helps increase the elasticity and
firmness in the skin.

Shield Bact peptide


This peptide is a neutralizer of toxins, with antiseptic action, which strengthens the
immediate defense mechanisms of the skin.

Copper peptides
These peptides promote collagen and elastin production, and they also act as an
antioxidant. It is also recorded that copper dependent enzymes increase the
benefits of the body’s natural tissue building processes. These peptides also help
to firm, smooth, and soften the skin.

Hyaluronic acid
This substance is naturally present in our skin and fundamentally its role is to
maintain the level of hydration and firmness of the skin. This super ingredient holds
1000x its weight in water making it one of the best ingredients out there. Given its
small molecular size, apart from its hydration properties, this substance is able to
fill in wrinkles and provide elasticity and general overall well being of the skin.

Cerasome oxygen
This high technology ingredient conducts pure oxygen to the skin in the form of
liposomes. The combined effect of both active ingredients results in the overall
improvement in the way the cells in the skin work, and increases energy
metabolism and gives immediate effects: the skin lightens up and rejuvenates.

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Vitamin K
Vitamin K is used specifically for broken capillaries and bruises. It works by helping
rebuild the vascular walls to reduce the blood leakage which can cause us to look
older by having dark under eye circles or tired eyes.

Metabiotics Resveratrol
Resveratrol is extracted from grapes, and it stimulates the synthesis of a specific
protein capable of temporarily slowing down skin degeneration. It ultimately has
a revitalizing effect on the cells of the skin. This high biotechnological active
ingredient has all the benefits of pure resveratrol, excluding its inconveniences
which are instability, obtaining a higher bio-availability or absorption.

Creatine
This ingredient stimulates cellular energetic metabolism. Stress and environmental
exposure cause fatigue of the skin. The energy accumulated in the cells
decreases, along with the capacity to synthesize proteins such as collagen, elastin
and keratin. Creatine helps to maintain the vitality of the skin cells.

Collageneer
This active ingredient is obtained from the white lupin seed. It is considered wrinkle
filler due to its potential for increasing collagen synthesis. It also stimulates the
synthesis of protective proteins, which help to fight the appearance of wrinkles.

Chondricare
This multi-functional ingredient is considered an intelligent protein, since during
the day, it protects the cellular structures that may be exposed to free radicals,
while at night, when these threats disappear, it changes its way of action and works
at increasing the cells’ energetic reserves (ATP).

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Marine collagen
This super ingredient is beneficial for skin tightening it also smooth’s fine lines and
wrinkles and lifts away sagging skin. It helps improve elasticity of the skin
revealing a smoother and younger skin.

Phytogen
This powerful ingredient consists of a mixture of 8 plants. It works by diminishing
signs of aging, normalizes pigmentation and helps redefine the face contour.

E-Mortal
This powerful liposome formula is prepared from a pea peptide mixture. It directly
stimulates the skin’s stem cells. It activates and revitalizes the skin’s stem cells to
restore cellular functionality and equilibrium, which are two important qualities of
youthful looking skin lost during the aging process.

Kojic acid
This acid is an extremely effective skin lightening treatment and is being used in
many skin care products as a powerful skin lightening agent. It is great for the
treatment of hyper pigmentation on the skin.

24k gold
24k gold not only has anti inflammatory benefits but it also increases circulation.
It is also packed with antioxidants, and provide the skin with nourishment it needs
to look it absolute best. It magnifies the effectiveness of these ingredients
significantly, making wrinkles less noticeable overall. Pure gold will penetrate the
skin and speed up cellular processes. It will activate regeneration and help to
restore lost aging skin volume.

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Diamond Powder
Diamond powder is renowned for its ability to stimulate microcirculation and
enhance the skin’s complexion, combined with a powerful wrinkle preventing
agent to even out imperfections and significantly improve the skin’s tone

Caviar
Caviar is extraordinary mainly because it is a combination of proteins, low
glycemic carbohydrates and essential fatty acids. However, one of the main
ingredients of this solution is DMAE. DMAE is a powerful nutrient that helps build
up neurotransmitters that are responsible for firming muscle tone. Overall this
firming results in less sagging which acts as a natural mini facelift.

Stem cells
Stem cells are the building blocks of our skin. They have the unique ability to
replace damaged and diseased cells. The skins ability to repair itself just isn’t the
same as when we were younger. The result is fine lines, wrinkles, age spots and
sagging skin. Scientists have discovered that stem cell extracts can renew skin by
replacing old cells with healthy new ones. These stem cell extracts stimulate your
owns skins abilities to repair itself. The vast majority of skin care products that
include stem cells are based on plant stem cells such as fruits, herbs, plants and
date palms – the more exotic the better. The overall goal of these products and
treatments is to stimulate the amount of collagen formation and other peptides
within the skin to improve elasticity and texture, calling them cosmeceuticals.

Antioxidants
Antioxidants are the ingredients that prevent free radical damage. Let’s get more
in detail now about some of these fabulous antioxidants and why you should make
sure you are incorporating them into your services and skin care routines.
Antioxidants are categorized into three groups known as enzymatic, non-
enzymatic and plant extracts.

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Superoxide Dismutase or (SOD)


Superoxide Dismutase is a powerful enzymatic antioxidant .... It basically
deactivates the superoxide radical that is formed when the skin is exposed to UV
light. SOD exists naturally in our skin but if also applied topically it can be a very
helpful antioxidant, especially when the skin is exposed to excess production of
free radicals. .

Vitamin E
Vitamin E is one of the most powerful antioxidants available and is considered the
first line of defense against free radical damage. It exists in our cells however the
quantities are insufficient when a large amount of free radicals are formed. It is
proven that even a small vitamin e deficiency can produce cellular damage.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)


Vitamin c is a natural antioxidant; though weaker than vitamin E it compliments
vitamin e in the fight against free radical damage. It is soluble in water and is
rapidly deactivated when exposed to moisture and oxygen. So it needs to be
encapsulated or incorporated in a stable form.

Alpha Lipoic Acid also known as DHLA


This powerful antioxidant is active against a broad spectrum of free radicals in all
surroundings liquid and water. It is often used in skin care products intended to
reduce inflammation, improve cellular energy production, and protect against free
radicals.

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Coenzyme Q10
This super antioxidant occurs naturally within the body, helps your skin protect
and defend itself from visible signs of aging. Over time, your personal levels of
Coq10 diminish, resulting in a lessened ability to product collagen, elastin, and
other important dermal molecules leaving the skin susceptible to damaging free
radicals.

Idebenone
This antioxidant mimics the behavior of coenzyme Q10. It is similar but has a
smaller molecule. It is also auto regenerative and thus capable of protecting
against free radical damage. Because of its smaller structure it can penetrate the
cellular membrane and facilitate free radical neutralization inside the cell, thus
behaving as an ingredient that helps reduce aging.

Green Tea
Green tea is considered to be one of the most active antioxidants. Some sources
indicate that it may be up to 25 times as potent as vitamin E. Green Tea contains
a variety of antioxidants called catechins, and the most important is called EGCG.
When topically applied green tea enhances the cellular protective response to
inflammation.

Carotenes
Carotene is a family name for a variety of naturally occurring chemicals in plants,
the most common of them is known as beta-carotene. Carotenes as a group do not
require regeneration in order to continue with their antioxidant activity which
makes them a long lasting natural source of antioxidants.

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Polyphenols
Polyphenols are a chain of phenol molecules. They are present in a large number
of natural compounds widely distributed in plants. The most popular polyphenols
used In skin care are phenolic acids also known as coffee cherries, bioflavinoids,
flavenoids, catechins or flavenols just to name a few.
Sources of polyphenols include green and white tea, grapeseed extracts and red
wine, pomegranates, coffee cherries, apples, cacao, berries, cherries and soy.

Pomegranate extract
Pomegranate extract is reported to contain high quantities of polyphenol
antioxidants. In addition to it is said to reinforce the skins structural fibers and boost
natural sun protection.

Coffee Cherry or Coffeeberry


This powerful antioxidant is indicated to have approximately 20 % more oxygen
radical absorption capacity than the highest protection possible by green tea. This
powerful antioxidant is also known in cosmetic ingredients as coffee Arabica fruit
extract.

Goji Berry Extracts


Goji, known as the longevity fruit, helps to prevent signs of aging and reinforces
the skin’s natural defenses.

Honey
Provides a combination of sugars which are very similar to those found In the
natural moisturizing factor of the skin. Honey gives a powerful moisturizing
property. Its combination of amino acids, proteins, vitamins and enzymes provides
the skin with nutrients and stimulates the renewal of cells.

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Betaine
Betaine is obtained from the beetroot. It plays a fundamental role in maintaining
the volume and balance of moisture in the cells.

Marine Algae Extracts


So how do they act on the face?
Masks based on marine algae extracts have incredible hydrating properties. The
carbohydrates of these marine algae are able to solidify and form a plastic film
that produces a certain pressure on the application area, enhancing the
penetration of the previously applied active ingredients, as well as the active
ingredients of the mask itself.

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UTENSILS NEEDED
WATER
DISINFECTANT
HAND SANITIZER/ANTIBACTERIAL SOAP
COVERED WASTE CONTAINER OR SEALABLE PLASTIC BAG STORAGE
BOWLS
SPATULAS
MEASURING PIPETTE
MEASURING SPOONS
HOT TOWEL CABBY OR STEAMER
FACIAL TOWELS
FACIAL BRUSHES
EXTRACTING TOOL
TWEEZERS
TOOLS FOR MULTIPURPOSE MACHINES IF APPLICABLE (HIGH FREQUENCY)
(MICRODERMABRASION)
HEADBAND
COTTON SPA GLOVES
CLEAN LINENS
PETROLATUM
PRODUCTS (WILL DIFFER PER FACIAL)
BOLSTER

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SINGLE-USE MATERIALS
GLOVES
COTTON PADS
COTTON ROUNDS/EYE PADS
COTTON SWABS
DISPOSABLE SPONGES
PLASTIC BAG
PAPER TOWELS
TISSUES

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Signature Facial & Product Recommendations


Cleanser
Calm skin Chamomile cleanser eminence organics
http://us.eminenceorganics.com/

Exfoliant
Micro-Exfoliating scrub www.skinceuticals.com

Toner
Multi-active toner www.dermalogica.com

High frequency gel


Organic conductive gel www.jellenproducts.com Or Aloe Vera Gel

Massage
Sebum control Bioelements www.bioelements.com

Eye treatment mask


Response Yeux eye and lip treatment mask www.matis-paris.com

Lip treatment mask


Response Yeux eye and lip treatment mask www.matis-paris.com

Serum
Facial serum anti wrinkle cellular transformation www.hydropeptide.com

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Lip serum
Revitalizing lip serum www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com

Eye serum
Nimue eye serum www.nimueskin.com

Moisturizer
Sea silk moisturizer www.cellex-c.com

Spf
Dermalogica solar defense booster www.dermalogica.com

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Vitamin C Facial
Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com

Toner
Multi-active toner www.dermalogica.com

Vitamin C peel
Dermodality c: vitality peel www.h2tspa.com

Mask
Advanced-c skin toning mask www.cellex-c.com

Moisturizer
Sea silk moisturizer www.cellex-c.com

Eye Cream
Advanced-c eye firming cream www.cellex-c.com

Lip Balm
Dermalogica renewal lip complex www.dermalogica.com

Spf
Sun care Spf 30 www.cellex-c.com

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Men’s Facial
Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com

Toner
Multi active toner www.dermalogica.com

Exfoliant
Dermodality Lactic acid peel 30 www.h2tspa.com

Mask
Advanced c skin toning mask www.cellex-c.com

Moisturize
Sea silk moisturizer www.cellex-c.com

Eye Cream
Advanced c eye firming cream www.cellexc.com

Lip Balm
Dermalogica renewal lip complex www.dermalogica.com

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Pumpkin Enzyme Facial


Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com

Toner
Multi active toner www.dermalogica.com

Enzyme
H2T Pumpkin enzyme www.h2tspa.com

Moisturize
Dermodality Aloe-Sone Sooth www.h2tspa.com

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Green Tea Facial


Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com
Jasmine green tea facial cleansing foam www.100percentpure.com

Mask
Green Tea Mask www.sonyadakar.com
The Sacred Truth Mask www.lushusa.com

Other recommended green tea products for all categories


www.greenteaskin.com

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Caviar Facial
Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com
Myoxy caviar balm cleanser www.pevonia.com

Skin Caviar
La Prairie the caviar collection www.shoplaprairie.com

Moisturizer
Sea silk moisturizer www.cellex-c.com
La Prairie the caviar collection www.shoplaprairie.com

Other recommended caviar products for all categories


Www.mariobadescu.com
www.goldencaviarskincare.com
www.casmara.es/en/

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24 K Gold Facial
Cleanser
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com
24K gold cleanser www.orogoldcosmetics.com

24K gold masks and flakes


www.lesnoblesses.com
www.ediblegoldleafflakespowder.com

Other recommended 24K gold all product categories


Www.casmara.es/en/
Www.orogoldcosmetics.com
Www.donnabella24k.com

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Acne and Problem Prone Skin Facial


Makeup Remover
Supremely gentle eye makeup remover www.kiehls.com

Cleanser
Rare earth deep pore daily cleanser www.kiehls.com
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com
Decongestant cleanser www.bioelements.com
Clear skin probiotic cleanser http://us.eminenceorganics.com

Toner
Bitter orange astringent toner www.aesop.com
Acne toner www.bioelements.com

Exfoliant
Dermodality salicylic acid www.h2tspa.com

Mask
Chamomile concentrate anti-blemish masque www.aesop.com
Clear skin probiotic mask http://us.eminenceorganics.com

Moisturizer and gel


Tea tree gel www.lushusa.com
Sea silk moisturizer www.cellexc.com

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Vitamin A intense www.h2tspa.com


Acne relief gel www.h2tspa.com
Teen acne care www.h2tspa.com

Other recommended acne and problem skin product categories


www.h2tspa.com

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Microdermabrasion Facial
Cleanser:
H2T foaming cream cleanser www.h2tspa.com

Moisturizer
Dermodality Aloe sone sooth www.h2tspa.com

All Microdermabrasion equipment should be purchased through:


www.vioramed.com

Other recommended microdermabrasion categories:


Www.h2tspa.com

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MARKETING
There are several ways to market yourself or your business and it doesn’t have to
cost hundreds of dollars. It is very important to be authentic and confident when
expressing your value to your clientele, and most importantly feel confident
charging what you are worth. Change your mindset so you stop hoping for success
and start making it happen. Let’s get you started right now so you can help women
and men from all walks of life look and feel more beautiful and confident all while
increasing your daily, weekly and monthly sales with little to no cost extra cost
involved! There are thousands of clients out there searching for cosmetic laser
procedures. Are you ready to start attracting them? A strong client base is vital to
your business. Word of mouth, marketing and sales tools can all help grow your
business and your client base. Here are some of the ways to start marketing right
away!

Word of Mouth and Referrals


It is really important to get referrals. Happy clients become great marketing tools.
You can provide a discount on a client's next service for each new person they
brings in to the business through word of mouth. Maintaining a database of referral
information will help you know which client makes the most referrals. Discounts
should apply to services such as facial treatments and products so the client's skin
becomes a walking billboard for you.

Social Media Sites


Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you've probably heard of social media
web sites like Facebook and Twitter. These social networking web sites are so
popular that everyone owns an account! With that being said they are also big for
business, and they don't cost anything. They are a great professional marketing
tool, and a great tool to actively connect with customers. So stay up to date on
Twitter, Facebook and other social media sites. Be sure to post updates constantly
and offer people free advice as well. Also, create a blog and update your blog
entries daily by giving skin and product tips, because sharing your knowledge is a
great way to network.

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Google and Bing


Now it is really important that when you want to promote yourself or your business
to get online. Google and Bing are the best ways. Search Google or Bing for
estheticians, skin gurus, and spas that offer facial treatments in your area, and see
what directories come up. Because if I’m looking to get a facial those are the first
places I’m going to look. So beffers is needed in the future.
Business cards help to present a positive image by highlighting the services you
are providing. They can also help to enhance your personal image. Production and
printing costs of business cards are low, but benefits are high, as they make a
statement in the business world. As a result, the market value of business cards is
high. It is highly recommended that you put a picture on your business card.
Studies have shown that people are more likely to hold on to a Business card with
a photo on it. It could be your picture, a picture of your product, or a combination
of both. Picture cards get attention! A tagline is a one sentence benefit statement.
So using this is also valuable for your business.
Your business card should represent the perfect image of you; in fact, it is the one
item that will be remembered on that first encounter! Having a design that does
not reflect what you do, could have a negative impact on your business sales. With
that in mind, we strongly believe that doing your own business card design is not
the right way to go. Leave the designing to the professionals and use you time
doing what you do best ... Selling your product or service!

Website
Get yourself a website, yes it may be harder at first to pay for a website. That’s
why Facebook comes in very handy. You will want to do a fan page don’t mix your
personal page with your professional page. On your fan page you can keep your
clients updated on the best treatments and products in the industry and so on.
Once you have a website online scheduling can be integrated into your website to
add convenience for existing clients and run promotions for prospective customers.

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Advertising
Radio, television and print publications offer advertising for sale. Facial and
skincare ads should always include a photo of someone with flawless skin. The
idea is for the audience to believe that if they go to you, their skin may look as
beautiful as the model's in the ad. The ad can offer discount coupons to first-time
users, which will also increase the client base.

Service Exchanges
Partnering with cosmetologists, estheticians, massage therapists, facial gurus, and
others in the industry will help build your client base. Offering to trade services or
put a package together that includes several services for a flat rate brings new
clients to the spa or office.

Research
Research your field, look at other estheticians, facial gurus, skincare websites and
blogs to see what is HOT. Being on top of your game is important for you and your
clients. It's ok to be new but not ok to sound new. People are looking to you for
advice. You need to know what you are talking about.

Study
Study, study and study some more... Sign up to receive industry emails and
Magazines. Any esthetician or skin care Industry magazines. They supply a ton of
valuable industry information on innovative new treatments and up and coming
products. Read the e-mails and magazines. You do not want to be left behind. For
new skincare professionals, or anyone adding skin care treatments to their
business, this is a great way to see what is out there. For you as seasoned skin
care professionals this is a great way to freshen up your services or to see what is
new. New skills are a great way to increase business with your existing clientele.

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Take continuing courses


Sign up and take advanced education. New or existing skin care professionals both
need all the training they can get. You will need to really get out there and take
as many classes as you can. It is even a great idea to find a mentor. Someone that
you can train under, and learn from. This will increase your chances of landing
your dream job at a business of your choice. Building your educational resume
shows that you are serious about your new career. And your newly acquired skills
will give you the confidence to grow as an amazing esthetician or skin care
professional.

Research
Research facials, skin care products, and equipment. There are so many available
to you that you will hardly know where to start. Look online and read as many
reviews as possible when researching. Also go to the company’s web page
register and request information. Really take the time to find a product line that
you are willing to stand behind. Also it is important that you find a line that will
stand behind you as well. Try the treatments for yourself. Write down what you
notice and feel. That way when you are giving a treatment you can prepare your
client for what is coming. This way you will also be aware of any reactions that are
not in the normal range as well. Advanced education plays a key role here as well.
You cannot and should not perform any services that you have not been properly
trained for.

Trade Shows
Attend trade shows. This is the best place to see new lasers on the market. You
will also be able to see what types of new products, ingredients, and equipment
are coming out. You will also get to see the many new innovative treatments that
you can learn about and offer to your clients. Take time to really get to know your
career. Seasoned and new skin care professionals are only as great as they strive
to be. Keep an open mind and always be willing to learn. Get out there and get a
laser treatment yourself. But don't let the skin professional know that you are in
the same field. It will greatly change the dynamic of your appointment.

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Consent Form
Having a client sign a consent form is standard practice for facial treatments.
PLEASE PRINT

Today’s Date __________

First Name ________________________________ Last Name ______________________________ Date of Birth __/__/____

Street ______________________________________ Apt. # _____ City __________________________ State _____ Zip _____

Phone: Home ( ) ________________________Work ( ) ________________________ Mobile ( ) __________________________

Dermatologist/Physician __________________________________________________ Phone ( ) _________________________

Emergency Contact _______________________________ Phone ( ) _____________________

Your Occupation _________________________________________________________________________________________

Referred By Friend Mailer Walk-by Yellow Pages Gift Certificate Other _______________________

Eesthetician Name ___________________

1. Is this your first facial? Yes No

2. What is the reason for your visit today?

_________________________________________________

3. What special areas of concern do you have?

_________________________________________________

_________________________________________________

4. Are you presently under a physician’s care for any current

skin condition or other problem? Yes No

What?____________________________________________

5. Are you pregnant? Yes No

6. Are you taking birth control pills? Yes No

If so, what type?____________________________________

7. Hormone replacement? Yes No

If so, what?________________________________________

8. Do you wear contact lenses? Yes No

9. Do you smoke? Yes No

10. Do you often experience stress? Yes No

11. Have you had skin cancer? Yes No

Please circle if you are affected by or have any of the following:

Asthma Fever blisters Hysterectomy Sinus problems

Cardiac problems Headaches—chronic Immune disorders Skin diseases—other

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Depression or Anxiety Hepatitis Lupus Urinary or kidney problems

Eczema Herpes Metal bone, pins, or plates

Epilepsy High blood pressure Pacemaker

Please explain above problems or list any other significant issues.


__________________________________________________________

I understand that the services offered are not a substitute for medical care and any information provided by the therapist is for
educational purposes only and not diagnostically prescriptive in nature. I understand that the information herein is to aid the
therapist in giving better service and is completely confidential.

POLICIES

1. Professional consultation is required before initial dispensing of products.

2. Our active discount rate is only effective for clients visiting every 4 weeks.

3. We do not give cash refunds.

4. We require a 24-hour cancellation notice.

I fully understand and agree to the above spa policies.

Confidential Skin Health Survey

12. Are you now using (or used in the past): Azelex

Differin Renova Retin-A Tazarac

Glycolic or alpha hydroxy acids

If so, when and for how long? ____________________________

13. Are you now using or have you ever used Accutane?

Yes No

If so, when and for how long? ____________________________

14. Do you have acne? Yes No

Experience frequent blemishes? Yes No

If so, how frequently? __________________________________

15. Do you have any allergies to cosmetics, foods, or drugs?

Yes No

Please list ____________________________________________

16. Are you presently taking medications—oral or topical?

Yes No If so, please list.

____________________________________________________

____________________________________________________

17. What products do you use presently? Soap

Cleansing milk Toner Scrub Mask

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Creams Sunscreen Other

______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________

Client’s Signature Date

How to Use the Consent Form

When introducing the consent form to clients, take time to review all the steps involved in the treatment process. Also carefully explain
any home care directions that may be necessary. Provide the client with a copy of the consent form, and keep the original for your
files. It is also wise to maintain a treatment log and have the client initial and date all subsequent treatment procedures. These extra
precautionary measures go a long way for both you and the client.

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THE CLIENT CONSULTATION


The client consultation is the verbal communication that determines the desired
results. It is the single most important part of any service and should always be
done before beginning any part of the service. Some professionals skip the client
consultation altogether, or they make time for it only on a client’s first visit. These
professionals are making a serious mistake.

A consultation should be performed, to some degree, as part of every single


service and visit. It keeps good communication going, and it allows you to keep
your clients feeling satisfied with your services. More important, it helps to reduce
the risk of doing harm to a client.

Once you are clear about what a client is looking for, and whether or not there are
any contradictions to the desired treatments, you can work together to develop a
strategy for meeting these needs.

The 10-Step Consultation Method Must Know


Every complete consultation needs to be structured in such a way that you cover
all the key points that consistently lead to the most successful conclusion. While
this may seem like a lot of information to memorize, it will become second nature
as you become more experienced and carry out many consultations.

Depending on the service requested, the consultation will vary to some degree.
For example, a chemical peel will require a more detailed consultation than a
regular spa facial procedure. To ensure that you are always thorough, keep a list
of the following 10 key points at your station for referral, and modify it as needed
for the actual service.

1. Review the intake form that your client has filled out, and take a few minutes to
develop rapport with the client and get the consultation going.

2. Assess your client’s current goals and objectives. Is she looking to remedy a
skin condition? Rejuvenate her appearance? Relax and unwind?

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3. Preference. Ask your client what skin care products she is currently using. Does
she love the fact that she only has to spend 10 minutes a day taking care of her
skin? What professional treatments has she had in the past? Was she happy
with the results? What is the reason for today’s visit?

4. Analyze. Use a magnifying lamp and/or Wood’s lamp to assess the client’s skin.
Note the skin type, texture, and any skin conditions on the consultation analysis
form. Determine the client’s Fitzpatrick type Are there any contraindications,
allergies, or sensitivities that will affect treatment?

5. Lifestyle. Ask your client about her career and personal lifestyle.

• Does she spend a great deal of time outdoors? Does she swim every day?
• Is she a businesswoman? An artist? A stay-at-home mom?
• Does she have a strong personal style that she wishes to project?
• What are her skin care habits? How often does she have facials? How much
time does she want to spend taking care of her skin each day?
6. Show and tell. Review the various treatment options. This is a good time to get
a real grasp on whether the client’s goals are realistic. What does the client
hope to achieve? If she says she wants to look like a certain celebrity, does this
mean she likes the shape of her eyebrows or is interested in having
dermatological or plastic surgery? Reinforcing your words with literature and
before and after photos is critical to having a clear understanding of what both
of you are really saying. Listening to the client and then repeating, in your own
words, what you think the client is telling you is known as reflective listening.
Mastering this listening skill will help you to always be on target with your
services, and to build a deep trust with your clients.

7. Suggest. Once you have enough information to make valid suggestions, narrow
the treatment options based on the following factors:

• Lifestyle. The products and services you recommend must fit the client’s
needs in terms of (time and effort), stress level, medical conditions, and other
intrinsic and extrinsic factors such as hormonal issues, poor nutrition,
smoking or alcohol habits, and personal appearance goals.
• Skin type. You must base your recommendations on whether your client has
dry, normal, oily, combination, or sensitive skin.

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• Skin conditions. Point out any contraindications to treatment or special


considerations related to conditions, such as acne, hyper-, or hypo-
pigmentation.
• Fitzpatrick typing. Determine the client’s Fitzpatrick type, and explain how
this will affect any of the treatments or services you recommend. Advise the
client on the appropriate sun protection products. When making
suggestions, qualify them by referencing the preceding factors. For
example: “I think this treatment will help to improve the overall tone and
texture of your skin.” Tactfully discuss any unreasonable expectations the
client may have shared with you by pointing out any contraindications or
limitations to the product or service that are unrealistic based on her
personal goals. If the client’s skin is damaged, you may need to address the
need for a series of treatments, better home-care products, or lifestyle
changes, or refer the client to a medical professional who is better able to
meet her needs.
Never hesitate to suggest additional services that will provide added value to the
treatment or enhance the service. For example, adding an enzyme to a basic facial
will help to improve skin tone and texture.

8. Sun exposure. Instructions regarding proper sun protection should be part of


every consultation service. Use the Fitzpatrick scale to recommend the
appropriate level of sun protection products, and caution all clients against the
harmful effects of overexposure to the sun. Estheticians should stress to clients
that overexposure to the sun may not only lead to but can also contribute to
aging, hyperpigmentation, capillary damage, free-radical damage, and
collagen and elastin deterioration (these will be discussed in detail in upcoming
chapters). It is especially important to advise clients who have exfoliating
treatments to keep out of the sun to avoid serious side effects.

9. Maintenance. Counsel every client on proper skin care, a regular schedule of


salon treatments, the benefit of a series of treatments, lifestyle limitations, and
home maintenance that she will need to commit to in order to look her best.

10. Repeat. Reiterate everything that you have agreed upon. Make sure to speak
in measured, precise terms, and use visual tools to demonstrate the end result.
This is the most critical step of the consultation process because it ultimately
determines the service(s) you will perform. Take your time, and be thorough.

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Concluding the Service


Once the service is finished and the client has let you know whether she is satisfied,
take a few more minutes to record the results on the consultation form. Ask for her
reactions, and record them. Note anything you did that you might want to do again,
as well as anything that does not bear repeating. Also make note of the final
results and any retail products that you recommended. This is the perfect time to
review the client’s goals and objectives.

Always supply the client with a written recommendation of the products and
treatments you have suggested, with specific directions for product use and
recommended time frames for in-salon treatments. This will help clients stay on
track and increase the benefit of services. Be sure to date your notes and file them
in the proper place

Consent Form

Today’s Date __________

First Name _____________________________________ Last Name __________________________________


Date of Birth __/__/____

Street _________________________________________ Apt. # _____ City ____________________________


State _____ Zip ________

Phone: Home ( ) ________________________Work ( ) ________________________ Mobile ( )


__________________________

Dermatologist/Physician ______________________________________________________ Phone ( )


_________________________

Emergency Contact _______________________________ Phone ( ) _____________________

Your Occupation
____________________________________________________________________________________________
_____

Referred By Friend Mailer Walk-by Yellow Pages Gift Certificate Other _______________________

Esthetician Name ___________________

1. Is this your first facial? Yes No

2. What is the reason for your visit today?

_________________________________________________

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3. What special areas of concern do you have?

_________________________________________________

_________________________________________________

4. Are you presently under a physician’s care for any current skin condition or other problem? Yes No

What?____________________________________________

5. Are you pregnant? Yes No

6. Are you taking birth control pills? Yes No

If so, what type?____________________________________

7. Hormone replacement? Yes No

If so, what?________________________________________

8. Do you wear contact lenses? Yes No

9. Do you smoke? Yes No

10. Do you often experience stress? Yes No

11. Have you had skin cancer? Yes No

Please circle if you are affected by or have any of the following:

Asthma Fever blisters Hysterectomy Sinus problems

Cardiac problems Headaches—chronic Immune disorders Skin diseases—other

Depression or Anxiety Hepatitis Lupus Urinary or kidney problems

Eczema Herpes Metal bone, pins, or plates

Epilepsy High blood pressure Pacemaker

Please explain above problems or list any other significant issues.

__________________________________________________________

I understand that the services offered are not a substitute for medical care and any information provided by the therapist
is for educational purposes only and not diagnostically prescriptive in nature. I understand that the information herein
is to aid the therapist in giving better service and is completely confidential.

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12. Are you now using (or used in the past): Azelex

Differin Renova Retin-A Tazarac Glycolic or alpha hydroxy acids

If so, when and for how long? ____________________________

13. Are you now using or have you ever used Accutane?

Yes No

If so, when and for how long? ____________________________

14. Do you have acne? Yes No

Experience frequent blemishes? Yes No

If so, how frequently? __________________________________

15. Do you have any allergies to cosmetics, foods, or drugs?

Yes No

Please list ____________________________________________

16. Are you presently taking medications—oral or topical?

Yes No If so, please list.

____________________________________________________

____________________________________________________

17. What products do you use presently? Soap

Cleansing milk Toner Scrub Mask

Creams Sunscreen Other

_____________________________________________________________________

Client’s Signature Date

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Most importantly, do everything by the book. Never ever stray from procedure.
This will create bad habits. And bad habits are hard to break. Continue your
education throughout your career. The more time you invest in yourself the more
valuable you will be to your clients and or business that you work in. Always
promote yourself in a positive manner. Enjoy your job.
Being a facialist, skin care professional or simply giving a dynamic treatment is
rewarding and exciting.
Good luck and have fun.

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