HERBAL COSMETICS –

INTRODUCTION AND SCOPE

P R E PA R E D B Y-
ZULI SHINGALA
FA C U LT Y O F P H A R M A C Y,
MSU BARODA

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INTRODUCTION
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos”
meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating.
The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the
history of man as they developed.
The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for decoration to
attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived
attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for
protection to provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal).
The origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting, religion
and superstition and later associated with medicine.

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HERBAL COSMETICS
Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated,
using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in
which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined
cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”.
The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as
articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on,
introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part
thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering
the appearance.

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The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine
job, climatic conditions and maintenance.
The skin due to excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer and
causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns.
The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts,
maceration and infections.
The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to
exposure towards microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the
environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition. The only factor
they had to rely on was the knowledge ofnature compiled in the ayurveda.
The science of ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics
for beautification and protection from external affects.
The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a
variety of botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and
provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. The natural herbs and
their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are
termed as herbal cosmetics.

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ADVANTAGE OF HERBAL COSMETICS OVER
SYNTHETIC
Herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and
fashion.
These agents are gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer
natural products over chemicals for their personal care to enhance their
beauty as these products supply the body with nutrients and enhance
health and provide satisfaction as these are free fromsynthetic
chemicals and have relatively less side-effects compared to the
synthetic cosmetics.
Following are some of the advantages of using natural cosmetics which
make them a better choice over the synthetic ones:

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1. NATURAL PRODUCTS
The name itself suggests that herbal cosmetics are natural and free from
all the harmful synthetic chemicals which otherwise may prove to be
toxic to the skin.
Instead of traditional synthetic products different plant parts and plant
extracts are used in these products,
e.g. aloe-vera gel and coconut oil.
They also consist of natural nutrients like Vitamin E that keeps skin
healthy, glowing and beautiful. For example, Aloevera is a herbal
plant species belonging to liliaceae family and is naturally and easily
available.
There are a rising number of consumers concerned about ingredients
such as synthetic chemicals, mineral oils who demand more natural
products with traceable and more natural ingredients, free from harmful
chemicals and with an emphasis on the properties of botanicals.

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3. SAFE TO USE
Compared to other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safe to use. They
are hypo-allergenic and tested and proven by dermatologists to be safe to
use anytime, anywhere. Since they are made of natural ingredients, people
don’t have to worry about getting skin rashes or experience skin itchiness.
Example - BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylated
Hydroxytoluene) are closely related synthetic antioxidants and are used as
preservatives in lipsticks and moisturizers.
BHA and BHT can induce allergic reactions in the skin. The international
Agency for Research on Cancer classifies BHA as a possible human
carcinogen.
Herbal cosmetics contain natural antioxidants like vitamin C.
There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the
skin and an increased awareness among consumers for herbal products
triggered the demand for natural products and natural extracts in cosmetics
preparations.

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COMPATIBLE WITH ALL SKIN TYPES
Natural cosmetics are suiTable for all skin types.No matter if you are
dark or fair, you will find natural cosmetics like foundation, eye shadow,
and lipstick which are appropriate irrespective of your skin tone.
Women with oily or sensitive skin can also use them and never have to
worry about degrading their skin condition.
Coal tar-derived colors are used extensively in cosmetics, Coal tar is
recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern with individual
coal tar a color (whether produced fromcoal tar or synthetically) is they
can cause cancer.
But natural colors that are obtained from herbs are safer.

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FIND YOUR BUDGET
Natural cosmetics are not that expensive. In fact, some of these
products are more affordable than synthetic ones.
They are offered at discounted prices and are sold for a cheap price
during sales. Just need to survey enough to look for great deals.
An estimate of WHO demonstrates about 80% of world population
depends on natural products for their health care, because of side
effects inflicted and rising cost of modern medicine.
World Health Organization currently recommends and encourages
traditional herbal cures in natural health care programs as these drugs
are easily available at low cost and are comparatively safe.

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SCOPE OF HERBAL COSMETICS
NUTRICOSMETICS
Nutricosmetics is the term often used for nutritional cosmetics and relates to
‘eat and drink products in co-ordination with usual skin care routine for better
overall results’.
Companies like Glowelle, Borba and Perricone have captured this trend with
innovative ingestibles promising cosmetic results.
In the anti-aging market segment 'Beauty-from-Within' cosmeceuticals are
becoming very popular.
These orally ingested functional products promote youthfulness by targeting
and reversing specific physiological processes normally associated with aging,
such as the irreversible breakdown of cells and tissues.
Many such nutricosmetics contain vitamins, phytonutrients and other natural
ingredients to achieve the desired results.
Anti-oxidants used in such nutricosmetics or oral anti-aging products include
vitamins A, C and E, fatty acids like alpha-lipoic acid, and botanicals such as
green tea.
Superior products also include ingredients, which promote skin health, have
anti-infl ammatory action, and include an anti-stress component.
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CONSUMER TRENDS
Changes in the Gender Divide: the market share of men’s cosmeceutical
products is starting to be significant, but they have a long way to go before
they rival those for women.
A report published by the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) in 2007 showed
that the fastest growing segment today is the men’s cosmeceutical range.
The demand for looking good and maintaining youthful healthy skin is no
longer just for women.
The first major wave of men’s skin care products appeared in the mid 1990s
and has since grown steadily to a projected $6 billion in sales for 2008.
Men are no longer embarrassed to shop for creams or admit their equal
desire to look young. Anti-aging skincare lines for men can be designed using
cosmeceutical ingredients such as vitamins, phytochemicals, acids, anti-
oxidants and essential oils.
The youngest age group being addressed for skin care are babies, with baby
cosmeceutical products including sunscreens and special actives.

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PRICE TRENDS
Producing efficacious anti-aging cosmeceuticals requires a lot of science
and research, which can prove expensive.
Hence many cosmeceuticals, like La Prairie’s $200 antiaging cream, are
situated at the premium end of the market.
However, mega companies like P&G with products like Olay Regenerist
are now aiming to be more affordable for the everyday consumer in the
mass market.
Further lower cost alternatives would have a large scope in the
marketplace.

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PHYSIOLOGY OF SKIN

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The skin is the largest organ of the body, with a total area of about 20
square feet. The skin protects us from microbes and the elements, helps
regulate body temperature, and permits the sensations of touch, heat,
and cold.
Skin has three layers:
The epidermis, the outermost layer of skin, provides a waterproof
barrier and creates our skin tone.
The dermis, beneath the epidermis, contains tough connective tissue,
hair follicles, and sweat glands.
The deeper subcutaneous tissue (hypodermis) is made of fat and
connective tissue.

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EPIDERMIS
The epidermis is stratied squamous epithelium.
The main cells of the epidermis are the keratinocytes, which synthesise the
protein keratin.
Protein bridges called desmosomes connect the keratinocytes, which are in a
constant state of transition from the deeper layers to the superficial.
The four separate layers of the epidermis are formed by the differinging
stages of keratin maturation. The epidermis varies in thickness from 0.05 mm
on the eyelids to 0.8±1.5 mm on the soles of the feet and palms of the hand.
Moving from the lower layers upwards to the surface, the four layers of the
epidermis are:
1. stratum basale (basal or germinativum cell layer)
2. stratum spinosum (spinous or prickle cell layer)
3. stratum granulosum (granular cell layer)
4. stratum corneum (horny layer).

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DERMOEPIDERMAL JUNCTION/BASEMENT MEMBRANE
This is a complex structure composed of two layers.
Abnormalities here result in the expression of rare skin diseases such as
bullous pemphigoid and epidermolysis bullosa.
The structure is highly irregular, with dermal papillae from the papillary
dermis projecting perpendicular to the skin surface.
It is via diffusion at this junction that the epidermis obtains nutrients
and disposes of waste.
The dermoepidermal junction flattens during ageing which accounts in
part for some of the visual signs of ageing.

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DERMIS
The dermis varies in thickness, ranging from 0.6 mm on the eyelids to 3
mm on the back, palms and soles.
It is found below the epidermis and is composed of a tough, supportive
cell matrix.
Two layers comprise the dermis:
a thin papillary layer
a thicker reticular layer

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FUNCTIONS OF SKIN
Provides a protective barrier against mechanical, thermal and physical
injury and noxious agents.
Prevents loss of moisture.
Reduces the harmful effectss of UV radiation.
Acts as a sensory organ.
Helps regulate temperature control.
Plays a role in immunological surveillance.
Synthesises vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol).
Has cosmetic, social and sexual associations.

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REFERENCES
Herbal cosmetics : an overview by Davinder kumar and Virender kumar
from International Journal of Advanced Scientific Research ISSN: 2456-
0421; Impact Factor: RJIF 5.32 www.allscientificjournal.com Volume 1;
Issue 4; July 2016; Page No. 36-41
Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals an overview by Laxmi S Joshi and
Harshal A Pawar from Natural products chemistry and research.
http://dl4a.org/uploads/pdf/Lit_SkinStruct_Bensouillah_Ch01.pdf

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.

THANK YOU

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