CURRENT TRENDS IN HERBAL COSMETICS

• PREPARED BY • M.PHARM 1ST YEAR

• ROLL NO 47
• ZULI SHINGALA

• GUIDED BY
• MR. B HAVIK CHAUHAN
• ASSISTANT PROFESSOR,
• FACULTY OF PHARMACY, MSU BARODA

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 INTRODUCTION

• The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill
in decorating.
• The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as they developed.
• The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to
hunt and also the man survived attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for
protection to provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal).
• The origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting, religion and superstition and later associated
with medicine.
• HERBAL COSMETICS
• Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic
ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic
benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”.
• The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part
thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance.

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• The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and
maintenance.
• The skin due to excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles,
blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns.
• The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts, maceration and infections.
• The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards microbes,
chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition.
The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge ofnature compiled in the ayurveda.
• The science of ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for beautification and
protection from external affects.
• The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources,
which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. The
natural herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are termed as
herbal cosmetics.

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 ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL COSMETICS OVER SYNTHETIC

• Herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion.
• These agents are gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer natural products
over chemicals for their personal care to enhance their beauty as these products supply
the body with nutrients and enhance health and provide satisfaction as these are free
fromsynthetic chemicals and have relatively less side-effects compared to the synthetic
cosmetics.
• Following are some of the advantages of using natural cosmetics which make them a
better choice over the synthetic ones:
1. NATURAL PRODUCTS
• The name itself suggests that herbal cosmetics are natural and free from all the harmful
synthetic chemicals which otherwise may prove to be toxic to the skin.
• Instead of traditional synthetic products different plant parts and plant extracts are used in
these products,
• e.g. aloe-vera gel and coconut oil.
• They also consist of natural nutrients like Vitamin E that keeps skin healthy, glowing and
beautiful. For example, Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family and
is naturally and easily available. 4
• There are a rising number of consumers concerned about ingredients such as synthetic chemicals,
mineral oils who demand more natural products with traceable and more natural ingredients, free from
harmful chemicals and with an emphasis on the properties of botanicals.
• SAFE TO USE
• Compared to other beauty products, natural cosmetics are safe to use. They are hypo-allergenic and
tested and proven by dermatologists to be safe to use anytime, anywhere. Since they are made of natural
ingredients, people don’t have to worry about getting skin rashes or experience skin itchiness.
• Example - BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) are closely related
synthetic antioxidants and are used as preservatives in lipsticks and moisturizers.
• BHA and BHT can induce allergic reactions in the skin. The international Agency for Research on Cancer
classifies BHA as a possible human carcinogen.
• Herbal cosmetics contain natural antioxidants like vitamin C.
• There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the skin and an increased
awareness among consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and natural
extracts in cosmetics preparations.

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• COMPATIBLE WITH ALL SKIN TYPES
• Natural cosmetics are suiTable for all skin types.No matter if you are dark or fair, you will find natural
cosmetics like foundation, eye shadow, and lipstick which are appropriate irrespective of your skin tone.
• Women with oily or sensitive skin can also use them and never have to worry about degrading their skin
condition.
• Coal tar-derived colors are used extensively in cosmetics, Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and
the main concern with individual coal tar a color (whether produced fromcoal tar or synthetically) is they can
cause cancer.
• But natural colors that are obtained from herbs are safer.
• FIND YOUR BUDGET
• Natural cosmetics are not that expensive. In fact, some of these products are more affordable than synthetic
ones.
• They are offered at discounted prices and are sold for a cheap price during sales. Just need to survey enough
to look for great deals.
• An estimate of WHO demonstrates about 80% of world population depends on natural products for their
health care, because of side effects inflicted and rising cost of modern medicine.
• World Health Organization currently recommends and encourages traditional herbal cures in natural health
care programs as these drugs are easily available at low cost and are comparatively safe.

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• NO SIDE EFFECTS
• The synthetic beauty products can irritate your skin, and cause pimples.
• They might block your pores and make your skin dry or oily.
• With natural cosmetics, one need not worry about these. The natural ingredients used assure no side
effects; one can apply them anytime, anywhere.
• For example herbal cosmetics are free from parabens that are the most widely used preservative in
cosmetics and can penetrate the skin.
• And are suspected of interfering with hormone function (endocrine disruption).

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APPLICATION OF HERBAL PRODUCTS IN COSMETICS

• Herbal Skin Care Products: Lavender body powder and body soap, Silk Soaps and Care Creams.
• Herbal Hair Care Cosmetics: Herbal hair care cosmetics have a several ingredient e.g Shikakai (Acacia
concinna), Henna (Lawsonia inermis), Guar Gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobus) Amla (Emblica officinalis),
Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri).
• Herbal Lip Care Cosmetics: Herbal Lip plumper, Herbal Lipsticks, Herbal Lip Balm and Herbal Lip Gloss.
• Herbal Eye Care Cosmetics: Eye Shadow, Eye Gloss, Eye Make Up, Liquid Eye Liners.
• Herbal Creams, Lotions, Gel: Creams: Rich Face and Hand Cream, Aloe Moisturizing Hand .
• Herbal Oils: Herbal oils are effective for baldness, falling of hair, thinning of hair, in treating irritation &
Itching of scalp .
• Herbal Perfumes &fragrances: Citrus Fragrance: The light, fresh character of citrus notes (bergamot, orange,
lemon, petitgrain, mandarin etc.) is often combined with more feminine scents (flowers, fruits and chypre).

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 HERBS USED IN COSMETICS

• There are numerous herbs available naturally having different uses in cosmetic preparations for skincare,
hair care and as antioxidants, fragrant etc. Some of the important examples are as follows:
1.SKIN CARE
• COCONUT OIL
• It is produced by crushing copra, the dried kernel, which contains about 60-65% of the oil.
• Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids.
• Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera,
• family Arecaceae.
• The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms
and is often used in cooking and baking.
• Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener.
• SUNFLOWER OIL
• It is the non-volatile oil extracted from sunflower seeds obtained from Helianthus annuus, family
Asteraceae.
• Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. It hassmoothing properties and is
considered non-comedogenic.
• A simple yet cost-effective oil, well tried and tested for generations in a wide variety of emulsions
formulated for face and body Products.
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• JOJOBA OIL
• It is a mixture of long chain, linear liquid wax esters extracted from the seeds of the desert shrub
simmondsia chinenesis,
• family simmondsiaceae.
• Jojoba oil is easily refined to remove any odor, color it is oxidatively stable, and is often used in cosmetics as
a moisturizer and as a carrier oil for exotic fragrances.
• Human sebum and jojoba oil are virtually identical.
• Sebum protects and moisturizes the skin and hair but is stripped away by chemicals, pollutants, sun and the
aging process, resulting in dry skin and hair.
• Jojoba oil replenishes what skin and hair lose and restores them to their natural pH balance.
• OLIVE OIL
• This oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits of olea europaea,
• family oleaceae.
• The major constituents are triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein, tristearate, monosterate, triarachidin, squalene, β-
sitosterol and tocopherol.
• It is used as skin and hair conditioner in cosmetics like lotions, shampoos etc.

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• ALOE VERA
• Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family that is found only in cultivation, having no
naturally occurring populations, although closely related aloes do have presence in northern Africa.
• It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals, moisturizes, and softens skin.
• It has anti-inflammatory property.
• Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to extract the soothing gel.
• Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides that provide cleansing action,
vitamins A,C,E,B, choline, B12 and folic acid and provide antioxidant activity.
• CARROT
• It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae.
• It is a valuable herb since ages as due to its richness in Vitamin A along with other essential vitamins.
• Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating agent.
• The carrot gets its characteristic and bright orange colour from β-carotene, and lesser amounts of α-
carotene and γ-carotene. α and β-carotenes are partly metabolized into vitamin A in humans.

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• NEEM
• Neem or Margosa is a botanical relative of mahogany.
• It belongs to the family Meliaceae. The Latinized name of NeemAzadirachta indica-is derived from the
Persian.
• Azad=Free, dirakht=Tree, i-Hind=of Indian Origin.
• The common treatment for the dandruff is Neem as it produces antifungal, antibacterial, pain-relieving, and
anti- compounds that would treat dandruff.
• TURMERIC
• It is a deep yellow to orange powder.
• Obtained from rhizomes of Curcuma longa.
• Belonging to the family Zingiberaceae.
• Turmeric contains a wide range of phytochemicals including, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin,
zingiberene, curcumol, curcumenol, eugenol, tetrahydrocurcumin, triethylcurcumin, curcumin, turmerin,
turmerones, and turmeronols.
• Curcumin is the phytochemical that gives a yellow color to turmeric and is now recognized as being
responsible for most of the therapeutic effects.
• It having properties like antiaging, protection from sun damage, helps reduce acne and acne scarring, heals
wounds.
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• Also it acts as anti inflammatory and anti bacterial.
 HAIR CARE

• HENNA
• Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae,
• which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone, which when processed produces Henna powder.
• Besides lawsone other constituents present are gallic acid, glucose, mannitol, fats, resin (2%), mucilage and
traces of an alkaloid.
• Leaves yield hennatannic acid and an olive oil green resin, soluble in ether and alcohol.
• Lawsone isolated from the leaves of L.inermis has shown significant antifungal antibiotic effect.
• SHIKAKAI
• Acacia concinna Linn. (Leguminosae) is a medicinal plant that grows in tropical rainforests of southern Asia.
• The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair, for improving hair growth, as an expectorant, emetic, and
purgative.
• The powder of Acacia Concinna Linn shows the presence of saponins, alkaloid, sugar, tannin, flavanoids,
anthraquinone glycosides

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• AMLA
• Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree Emblica Officinalis,
• Family Euphorbiaceae.
• which grows throughout India and yields anedible fruit.
• It is highly praised both for its high vitamin C content and for the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds
and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and scalp problems.
• It is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments etc.
• BHRINGRAJ
• Also known as bhangro or Eclipta.
• Obtained from leaves and flowers of Eclipta alba , belonging to the family compositae.
• Plant contains alkaloid ecliptine.
• Many maeketed preparations are available of Eclipta, example bhringraj oil from Khadi naturals.
• It is beneficial for hair growth, aids in sleeping, helps to treeat scalp, nourishment to the hair, improve eyesight,
useful to treat dandruff.
• ALMOND OIL
• The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis.
• It proves to be very nourishing, and softens and strengthens the hair.
• The almond oil also proves to be a very good cleansing agent.
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• VITAMIN E
• Alpha-tocopherol is the major lipophilic antioxidant in plasma membranes and tissues.
• The term vitamin E collectively refers to 30 naturally occurring molecules (4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols),
all of which exhibit vitamin E activity.
• Its major role is generally considered to be the arrest of chain propagation and lipid peroxidation by
scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals, hence protecting the cell membrane from destruction.
• It improves hair growth and helps to reduce hair fall.
• It also acts as moisturizer for skin, as many marketed moisturizer contains Vit.E in their preparation.
• Vitamin E capsules are available in the market.
• CASTOR OIL
• This oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis belonging to the family, Euphorbiaceae.
• It is used as an emollient, in the preparation of lipstick, hair oils, creams and lotions.
• Pure castor oil also used by some women.
• As it helps to increase hair growth and also helps to improve eye lashes and eyebrows.

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 ESSENTIAL OILS

• ROSE OIL
• Roses are widely referred to as the world’s favorite flower in part due to their vast diversity in plant habitat and
floral characteristics.
• There are mainly four species of roses for oil production.
• These are Rosa damascena Mill., R. gallica L., R. moschata Herrm. and R. centifolia L.
• Rose oil and rose water have many therapeutic effects.
• Rose oil helps soothe the mind and heals depression, grief, nervous stress and tension.
• It also helps to heal wound and skin health.
• EUCALYPTUS OIL
• There are around 700 different species of Eucalyptus in the world, of which at least 500 produce a type of
essential oil.
• It is produced by steam distillation from the leaves of Eucalyptus species (E. cinerea F. Muell., E. baueriana F.
Muell., E. smithii R. T. Baker, E. bridgesiana R. T. Baker, E. microtheca F. Muell., E. foecunda Schau., E.
pulverulenta Sims, E. propinqua Deane and Maiden, E. erythrocorys F. Muell.) etc.
• They are widely used in the preparation of liniments, inhalants, cough syrups, ointments, toothpaste and also
as pharmaceutical flavors.
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• TEA TREE OIL
• Tea tree oil is distilled from the leaves of the Melaleuca alternifolia
• plant found in Australia.
• The oil possesses antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal property.
• A person can treat acne, contact dermatitis or head lice using tea tree oil. It helps to treat dry scalp and helps
to reduce hair fall.
• CITRONELLA OIL
• It is one of the essential oils obtained from the leaves and stems of different species of Cymbopogon family
Cardiopteridaceae.
• The crisp, rich citrus or lemon like aroma of this oil drives away body odour and is used deodorants
and body sprays, although in very small quantities, since it heavy doses it may give skin irritations.
• It can also be mixed with the bathing water to have a refreshing, body odour ending bath.

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MARKETED PREPARATIONS OF HERBAL COSMETICS

•SKIN CARE FORMULATIONS

FORMULATION NAME BRAND

Face wash oil clear blue berry face wash Himalaya

Face pack Multani mitti face pack By Patanjali

Face scrub Apricot and walnut face scrub By everyuth naturals

Face moisturizer Intense moisturizer By himalaya

Fairness cream Fair and lovely ayurvedic care By fair and lovely

Herbal soap Rose and honey soap By patanjali

Cold cream Winter defense moisturizing cream By himalaya

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 HAIR CARE FORMULATIONS

FORMULATION NAME BRAND

Shampoo Anti dandruff shampoo Himalaya

Hair oil Bhringraj oil Khadi naturals

Conditioners Sunflower oil conditioner Patanjali

Hair pack Onion pack Mamaearth

Gel Aloe vera gel Wow skin science

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 COSMECEUTICAL TRENDS

• NUTRICOSMETICS
• Nutricosmetics is the term often used for nutritional cosmetics and relates to ‘eat and drink products in co-
ordination with usual skin care routine for better overall results’.
• Companies like Glowelle, Borba and Perricone have captured this trend with innovative ingestibles promising
cosmetic results.
• In the anti-aging market segment 'Beauty-from-Within' cosmeceuticals are becoming very popular.
• These orally ingested functional products promote youthfulness by targeting and reversing specific
physiological processes normally associated with aging, such as the irreversible breakdown of cells and
tissues.
• Many such nutricosmetics contain vitamins, phytonutrients and other natural ingredients to achieve the
desired results.
• Anti-oxidants used in such nutricosmetics or oral anti-aging products include vitamins A, C and E, fatty acids
like alpha-lipoic acid, and botanicals such as green tea.
• Superior products also include ingredients, which promote skin health, have anti-infl ammatory action, and
include an anti-stress component.
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• CONSUMER TRENDS
• Changes in the Gender Divide: the market share of men’s cosmeceutical products is starting to be significant,
but they have a long way to go before they rival those for women.
• A report published by the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI) in 2007 showed that the fastest growing
segment today is the men’s cosmeceutical range.
• The demand for looking good and maintaining youthful healthy skin is no longer just for women.
• The first major wave of men’s skin care products appeared in the mid 1990s and has since grown steadily to
a projected $6 billion in sales for 2008.
• Men are no longer embarrassed to shop for creams or admit their equal desire to look young. Anti-aging
skincare lines for men can be designed using cosmeceutical ingredients such as vitamins, phytochemicals,
acids, anti-oxidants and essential oils.
• The youngest age group being addressed for skin care are babies, with baby cosmeceutical products
including sunscreens and special actives.

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 MARKET AND REGULATORY TRENDS

• Cosmeceuticals are not regulated as such in the European Union, United States or Japan.
• In the EU, most are considered cosmetics; in the United States, most are seen as drugs, that have probably
not been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
• In Japan, they are regulated as quasi-drugs. Today, new challenges are presented to government regulatory
agencies as new molecules from natural sources with true biological activity are being discovered and tested.
• Traditional recipes of historical significance have become important segments of the cosmeceutical market.
Whereas there are clear guidelines for manufacturing and advertising drugs as compared to cosmetics, the
same is lacking for cosmeceuticals.
• Being hybrids, cosmeceuticals are difficult to classify. The tightening of government regulations for products
claims and safety testing are on the horizon.
• Natural and organic cosmeceuticals is one of the fastest growing segments of the health and wellness market
place.

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• PRICE TRENDS
• Producing efficacious anti-aging cosmeceuticals requires a lot of science and research, which can prove
expensive.
• Hence many cosmeceuticals, like La Prairie’s $200 antiaging cream, are situated at the premium end of the
market.
• However, mega companies like P&G with products like Olay Regenerist are now aiming to be more affordable
for the everyday consumer in the mass market.
• Further lower cost alternatives would have a large scope in the marketplace.

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 REFERENCES

• Herbal cosmetics : an overview by Davinder kumar and Virender kumar from International Journal of
Advanced Scientific Research ISSN: 2456-0421; Impact Factor: RJIF 5.32 www.allscientificjournal.com Volume
1; Issue 4; July 2016; Page No. 36-41
• Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals an overview by Laxmi S Joshi and Harshal A Pawar from Natural
products chemistry and research.
• A review article on Herbal cosmetics used for skin and hair by Ashish Baldi and Sunil Sharma from research
gate.
• A review article on trends in aging and skin care : an Ayurvedic concept by Hema Sharma Dutta and Rangesh
Paramesh.

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THANK YOU

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