Folk Art Chimney Santas

Notes
1. Read pattern through before starting.
2. Sewing Terms: RST-right sides together RSO – right side(s) out
3. Use ¼” seams unless otherwise directed.
4. I have used a utility fabric called “drill” fabric to make the bodies for the Santas – it is a little sturdier
than muslin or osnaburg fabric - I purchased it at JoAnn’s Fabrics in the same aisle with the muslin.
5. The chimney is made out of a 4” paper mache box. If you can’t find a 4” paper mache box you can
substitute any 4” square box because it is covered with fabric and the Snowtex paint. Michaels had lots of
4” and 5” square (empty) decorative gift boxes during the Christmas season.
6. To make the chimney look realistic I have used a thick “snow” paint product called Snowtex – I
purchased it at Michaels Arts & Crafts store in the paint aisle.
7. Sometimes I’m in a hurry to complete my doll so I oven dry my doll. How to oven dry: place doll on a foil
and batting lined cookie sheet(s) and place in a low temperature oven (200 degrees) for 5 to 10 minutes,
turning over, halfway through drying time. Please don’t leave oven unattended! And just a note – don’t
put anything in the oven that you’ve used hot glue on because it will melt again and might ruin whatever
you’ve sewn.
8. Thank you for purchasing my pattern! You may sell the finished Santas at craft shows, on your website
and on eBay or Etsy. On the internet, please give me credit as the designer. Thank you again.
Happy Sewing and Happy Heart Hugs!

General Note: Directions to make the Chimney – page 1 and 2.

Directions to make the Santas – page 2 through 5
Directions to make Santa’s Sack, Stocking and Prim Tree - page 5

Directions to Make the 4” Chimney for Santa:

1. You will be working with the bottom of the box now (not the lid). Cut a 4 ½” x 16” piece of brick
fabric (you’ll have a little extra fabric because the 4” square paper Mache box is actually 3 ¾”
from side to side – it is 4” tall). Spread a thin layer of white glue on one side of the box – line one
4 ½” side of the brick fabric up to one corner side of the box – you want the top edge of the fabric
even with the top edge of the box – you’ll have ½” extra fabric below the box – smooth the fabric
out onto the glued side. Continue to glue the brick fabric onto the next three sides in like manner
– when you’re done, trim the side edge of the fabric so you have a ¼” overlap – glue overlapped
edge onto box. Clip the excess fabric extending below the box at each corner side (clip up to
bottom of box) – glue excess fabric onto bottom of box so no raw edge shows at the bottom.

2. You will work with the lid now. Take the lid (the top of the box) and draw a line (on the top)
around the inside ¼” in from all side edges – this will be a cutting line – you need that ¼” lip so the
lid will sit nicely on top of the box (and not slide down the outside of the box). I found it easier to
cut one corner edge of the lid to get started and then I cut the inside of the lid out – you don’t have
to cut the edge though, if you don’t want to. If you have cut the corner edge, then tape the corner
back together again on the inside of the lid (so you don’t see the tape). Squeeze a line of white glue
around (on) the top edge of the 4” box – place the lid onto the box so the ¼” lip of the lid rests on
top edge(s) of box. Let glue dry.

3. Making the chimney look like it has snow on it: Use an old butter knife or pallet knife and spread
Snowtex paint on all sides of the lid – you don’t need a thick coat just enough to cover the lid –
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spread Snowtex on the top ¼” lip of the lid. Let Snowtex paint dry. Use the butter knife or pallet
knife and thinly spread a little Snowtex here and there on the sides of the chimney (on the brick
fabric) to make the chimney appear more prim with its covering of snow – let Snowtex paint dry.

4. Toning down the brightness of the Snowtex paint: Make a brown wash by mixing some burnt
umber paint with a lot of water. Brush brown wash over snow covered lid on chimney to age the
look and tone down that bright white Snowtex paint. Dry brush (dip brush into burnt umber
paint and then wipe off almost all the paint on a paper towel so it’s almost dry) burnt umber paint
on snow covered lid to give it more dimension – dry brush burnt umber paint onto brick fabric
right under the lid to make a shadow – dry brush burnt umber paint over thinly spread Snowtex
on the brick fabric to tone down brightness. Paint the bottom of the box with burnt umber paint –
let dry. Paint the inside of the box with burnt umber paint – let dry.

Note: There are 2 Santa patterns: a bigger Santa that fits down into the chimney (Santa body
pattern #1) and a smaller but taller Santa (Santa body pattern # 2) that stands next to a chimney
that holds a sack full of Christmas gatherings. The following directions are for both Santas – their
bodies and their hoods/coats are made exactly the same way even though they are different sizes.

Directions for Santas:

1. Choose which Santa body you are going to make (pattern #1 or #2 – you do have to tape the 2
pieces for each body pattern together to complete them before placing them on the fabric).
Trace the body pattern onto drill fabric that is RST. Machine stitch the body on the traced
line leaving the bottom open and a side opening. Cut the body out ¼” away from the stitching
(and side opening) – cut the bottom out on the traced line. Clip the seam at both sides of the
neck/shoulders. Trace the base of the body pattern onto a single layer of drill fabric. Cut the
base out on the traced line (be sure to cut out notches on base). With RST, match the notches
on the base to the side seams of the body and pin together. Pin front and back of body to base.
Machine stitch base and body together (1/4” seam) removing pins before you get to them.
Turn body RSO through side opening.

2. The standing Santa (the smaller but taller Santa) needs a flat bottom, so cut the inner base
pattern out of cardboard. Slip the cardboard base through the side opening and position it
down onto the bottom of the body so it is flat against the bottom. If you would want to make
this Santa a free-standing Santa (without putting him on a wood base), you would need to
weight his body. To weight his body: make a paper funnel and pour 2/3 cup of play sand (go
through side opening) into body (on top of cardboard base). If you are putting Santa on a
wood base, you still need the inner cardboard base but you do not have to weight his body.
Stuff the bottom of the Santa body firmly with fiberfill (keeping sand in place if you are
making the free-standing Santa). Firmly stuff Santa’s head and shoulders with fiberfill, then
stuff the middle of his body firmly. Whip stitch side opening closed.

3. Sculpting Santa’s Nose: Refer to the body pattern and using a sharp pencil, draw the 2
(flared out) sides of Santa’s nose. You are going to pinch stitch his nose – to do this you can
enter and exit the needle from the back of his head because it will be covered with the hood of
his coat. Double thread off white thread in needle and knot end. Take a tack stitch at the back
of the head and then poke needle into back of head and come out on front of head at the top of
one nose line – take one stitch down that nose line and exit needle (going under some fiberfill)
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to top of opposite nose line – take a stitch down that nose line and exit needle back over to first
nose line at the bottom of the first stitch – pull on thread to “pinch” the nose lines together –
continue to stitch back and forth in this manner, always going under some fiberfill and pulling
on thread as you stitch to “pinch” or sculpt the rest of the nose. When you get to the bottom of
the nose, work your way back up nose going over a few of the stitches already there to top of
nose – exit needle to back of head, tack but don’t cut thread yet. Now draw the 2 nostril dots
under the nose. Poke needle back through head and come out at one dot (to side of dot) – take
a small stitch across dot, exiting needle to back of head – pull thread to indent nostril – tack
thread at back of head to hold indention – repeat process with other nostril and then cut
thread.

4. Make a strong coffee stain by mixing 2 teaspoons of instant coffee with 1/3 cup hot water. Use
the sponge brush and paint coffee water all over Santa’s body – if Santa’s body has an inner
cardboard base or some sand in it, go lightly with the coffee stain (don’t saturate the bottom of
the body). To oven dry Santa’s body, first cover a cookie sheet with foil and then a piece of
batting. Place Santa on cookie sheet (face up) and place in a 200 degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes
(turning Santa over halfway through drying time).

5. Santa’s Face: Santa’s Eyes – Using a sharp pencil, draw 3 short horizontal lines for each of
Santa’s eyes. Thread a single piece of off white crochet thread in needle and knot end. Poke
needle into back of head and exit out on front of face at the end of one eye line – stitch over the
3 horizontal lines to make the “white” of the eye – exit needle to back of head, tack and repeat
process to make other eye. Thread a single piece of black crochet thread in needle and knot
end. Stitch 3 short vertical stitches in the middle of the eyes to make the pupils. You can make
eyebrows for Santa bv stitching them with the off white crochet thread or by stitching on short
lengths of natural wool. To make eyebrows with crochet thread, first draw 2 little eyebrow
lines over the eyes with a pencil and then stitch over those lines with short vertical stitches very
close together. To make eyebrows with wool, first draw 2 little eyebrow lines with a pencil –
using off white, all purpose thread, stitch little pieces of wool over the eyebrow lines. Use the
dark umber pencil and shade around the eyes, under the eyebrows and then down along both
sides of the nose. Use the red pencil and shade cheeks onto Santa’s face – blend shading into
the fabric with the Q-tip – repeat process to darken color of cheeks. Santa’s hair, mustache
and beard will be stitched on later.

6. Santa’s Arms – Pin the arm patterns onto doubled black felt. Machine stitch around arms very
close to pattern edges leaving the tops open with large side openings (such large openings
because it is hard to turn felt RSO, especially if it is wool felt). Remove pins/patterns. Cut arms
out 1/8” away from stitching and a little further away from the side opening – remove the
pins/patterns. Turn arms RSO. Stuff arms firmly with fiberfill. Whip stitch side openings
closed (top openings don’t have to be closed). Put arms aside.

7. Making the Hood for Santa’s Coat – Cut the hood pattern out doubled fabric that is RST. You
are going to machine stitch the top/back of the hood – if you are making the smaller, taller
Santa, stitch the hood with a ½” seam; if you are making the Santa in the chimney, stitch the
hood with a ¼” seam. To make the trim for the hood, cut a 2 ½” x 20” strip of coffee stained
osnaburg fabric – I know this sounds long, but let’s also make the trim for the coat now. Fold
the fabric in half lengthwise (RSO) so the strip measures 1 ¼” x 20”. Iron fold. Now open strip
up and fold each 20” raw strip edge in, matching them to the fold in the middle, then fold
together again so trim is ½” x 20” – iron again. Cut a 9” piece for the hood – the 11” piece will
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be trim for the coat so put it aside. Pin the 9” piece of trim around the front edge of the hood:
to do this, open trim so half is on the outside of hood, half is on the inside of hood (middle of
trim is against edge of hood). Machine stitch trim to hood 1/8” in from edge of trim, catching
trim on inside of hood as well as trim on outside of hood – don’t worry about raw edge of trim
or raw edge of hood at bottom of hood. Put hood aside.

8. Santa’s Coat – Trace the coat pattern (fold bottom of pattern up for Santa in the Chimney so it
is shorter) onto doubled fabric that is folded and RST (shoulders of coat matching fold in
fabric) – mark neck opening. Cut coat out on traced line - cut neck opening on fold. Open
coat up - on one side (this side will be the front), pin the osnaburg trim down the middle of the
front. Machine stitch the trim to the coat (stitch down side of trim with fold and also down
side with folded edges). Fold coat at shoulders with RST. Machine stitch under arms and
down sides of coat – clip seams at underarms. Turn coat RSO. Put coat aside.

9. Santa’s Hair – Wad up a little “cap” of wool and hand stitch it to the top of Santa’s head (use
some color thread as hair).

10. Pull Santa’s coat down onto Santa’s body so the coat rests on his shoulders and his head is out.
If you are making the Santa in the chimney, take a running stitch around the bottom edge of
the coat using crochet thread – pull thread to gather coat completely under his body, tack and
cut thread. If you are making the standing Santa, stitch a little hem at the bottom of his coat
so his coat has no raw edge showing.

11. Finishing Santa’s Arms – Insert fiberfill up into the sleeves of the coat – use 2 wads with a
space in between so the arms can bend – insert the 2 black felt arms up into the sleeves. Take a
running stitch around the bottom of the sleeves to gather the bottoms, then stitch around a
second time catching the arm fabric to secure them in place.

12. Finishing Santa’s Coat – Insert some fiberfill up into the top of the hood and put some fiberfill
in back of hood – place hood on Santa’s head letting some of his hair show - tuck the bottom
edge of the hood inside the neck of the coat – fold neck edge in ¼” (so no raw edge shows) –
hand stitch neck of coat to hood and front of Santa also catching Santa’s head/shoulders as you
do so. Hot glue or stitch rusty bells down the trim on Santa’s coat (5 for Santa in the chimney,
7 for smaller, taller standing Santa).

13. Santa’s Scarf – This step is optional but adds another bit of interest to Santa. Cut a 1” x 10”
piece of wool fabric – tie wool strip around Santa’s neck with ends knotted over one shoulder.

14. Santa’s Mustache and Beard – Take a little length of wool and hand stitch it to Santa’s face
under his nose (use same color thread as wool). To make Santa’s beard, gather together
lengths of wool – machine stitch across lengths at top (1/2” down from top) to hold them
together – bend top of beard/wool back at stitching (so you don’t see stitching) and hand stitch
or hot glue beard to Santa’s face under his mustache.

15. Finishing Santa in the Chimney – Insert Santa down into chimney. Hand stitch his hands
together. Tie a miniature ornament (made for a miniature tree) around the middle of his
hands. Make the Prim Tree for Santa (see step 19). Tuck the tree behind one of Santa’s arms
and allow the main stem stick to go all the way down to the bottom of the chimney. If you
want to make this Santa even more interesting you can make a base for the chimney: stain a 5”
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square wood plaque with watered down burnt umber paint – skim the top and sides with the
Snowtex paint – let paint dry – stain Snowtex with watered down burnt umber paint – hot glue
Santa in chimney to top of wood plaque.

16. Finishing the Standing Santa – Cut an 18” piece of jute and tie it around Santa’s coat to gather
it. Bend his arm – tuck a purchased little bear in the crook of his arm. Hand stitch the bear to
Santa’s body and then stitch Santa’s arm in place against his body. Tie a miniature ornament
(made for a miniature tree) around Santa’s hand (on the arm that’s bent). Santa’s stocking –
trace the stocking pattern onto doubled fabric that is RST. Machine stitch stocking on traced
line. Cut stocking out ¼” from stitching. Turn stocking RSO – fold top edge in ½” so no raw
edge shows. Fill stocking with fiberfill. Hot glue greenery, berries chenille candy canes and a
little star into top of stocking. Hot glue or stitch two rusty bells down stocking. Stitch stocking
to Santa’s hand (on arm that hangs down along his body). Displaying Santa on a Wood Plaque
with His Chimney and Sack – You will need an 8” x 10” wood plaque for a base. Stain the
wood with watered down burnt umber paint – let dry. Skim top of plaque with Snowtex paint
to tone down the brightness. Make Santa’s sack (step 17) and place the sack down into the
chimney. Place Santa and chimney on wood base – hot glue the bottom of Santa’s body and
the bottom of the chimney to the wood base. Dust Santa with cinnamon.

17. Santa’s Sack - Cut two 7” (wide) x 9” (tall) pieces of natural burlap. Place them RST and
double stitch sides and bottom with a 3/8” seam to sew the sack. Box the 2 bottom sides of the
sack to “square it off” (or make a boxed bottom): to do this, at one bottom corner, match the
side seam to the bottom seam creating a little triangular shape – measure down 1 ½” from
point of triangle (pin in place) and draw a little horizontal line across the bottom of the
triangle (at the 1 ½” mark). Machine stitch across the horizontal line (on the line) removing the
pin before you get to it – one bottom side is done. Repeat process on other bottom corner to
finishing “squaring off” or “boxing off” the sack. Turn the sack RSO (the little stitched
triangles will fold in towards the center of the sack at the inside bottom). Fold the top edge of
the sack in (down) 2” and pin in place. In the front of the sack , using doubled black crochet
thread, take a running stitch around the top edge (3/4” down) leaving 6” thread tails at front
(remove pins) – pull thread tails to gather the top of the sack halfway closed, knot thread tails
and tie into a bow. Fill sack with fiberfill up to top. Dry brush outside of sack with burnt
umber paint to make it look worn. Place sack down into completed chimney. Hot glue vintage
looking ornaments, trees, toys and garland into sack (on top of fiberfill).
18. Santa’s Prim Tree – You need a 12” piece of stick (not too thick) for the main stem of the tree.
For the branches of the tree you need wired pine stems (they come in 12” lengths in a package
in the Christmas aisle of Michaels). Out of the pine stems, use a wire cutter and cut one 2”
piece, two 2 ½” pieces and four 3” pieces (if your stick for the main stem is thick, cut the
branch pieces longer to compensate when wrapping them around the stick). Twist the 2” pine
stem around the top of the stick about 1” down to make the top branch. Leaving 1” between
branches, twist the two 2 ½” pieces around the stick for 2 more branches. Twist the four 3”
pieces around the stick to make the bottom 4 branches. Hot glue the branches to the stick on
the back of the tree (above and below each branch). Hot glue a 7” string of garland down the
tree keeping it in place by going behind the ends of a couple braches. Hot glue single garland
balls to the tree here and there. Hot glue a star to the top of the tree (onto the 1” top of stick).
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